The enemy having shewn an unwillingness to retire from Berlenga, Sir
Rowland Hill, at the head of his whole corps, marched from Llerena on
the 8th of July to dislodge them. The infantry, preceded by the Spanish
cavalry under the Conde-de-Penne-Villamur, moved direct upon Berlenga,
but the British cavalry moved by a more circuitous route to the left,
with the view of making a dash at the right wing of the French force in
front of the town.
Six miles from Llerena, the Spaniards came up with the enemy's advanced
piquets, which they attacked and drove in, in rather good style. The
ground being favourable for cavalry, the French retired at extended
order, followed by their opponents, who skirmished with them very
prettily, till the enemy rejoined a portion of their friends on a
height in front of Berlenga. The force of the two parties being now
more upon an equality, the Spaniards proceeded with greater caution.
The infantry however continued to advance at the usual pace, in order
to arrive at a given point at the hour fixed for the British cavalry
to make the attack. As we approached the height on which the main body
of the French cavalry in _front_ of Berlenga were posted, the latter
retired, crossed a deep ravine, and took post on an opposite ridge. The
town of Berlenga, which lay between these two eminences, and a little
to our left, was still in the hands of the enemy, but was evacuated
immediately by them on seeing their companions on the left retiring
across the valley. To annoy them a little, and retard their retrograde
movement till our cavalry should arrive, the artillery were ordered to
play upon the two columns, and the infantry to close up in rear of the
artillery. On the infantry taking up their ground, the French artillery
saluted each battalion in succession,--a mark of attention for which
our artillery shewed themselves sufficiently grateful. The effect
produced by this mutual interchange of civilities would have been much
finer, could we have induced the enemy to make it more general. In this
object, however, we were completely foiled by the non-appearance of
our cavalry, until the enemy had withdrawn almost beyond the reach of
pursuit. Such was the issue of our movement on Berlenga, which in the
morning promised so brilliant a result. At the close of the business
the troops were thrown into Berlenga, but at sun-set we quitted the
town, and bivouacked in the vicinity.
Early on the following morning, we began to retrace our steps to
Llerena. The day being extremely hot, and not a single drop of water to
be had between the two places, a great many of the men sunk upon the
ground completely overpowered, some of them to rise no more. During
the latter part of the march, my thirst was so great, that when about
a-quarter of a mile from Llerena, I was forced to lie down, and might
have been reposing near the same spot to this day, had not a soldier
kindly offered me a mouthful of _mud_ and _water_, (the only liquid any
of them could procure) which revived me so much, that in course of a
few minutes, I was enabled to follow my friends into town.
On the 18th of July, we bade a final adieu to Llerena, and retired to
Benveneida. Resuming our march at sun-set the same evening, we arrived
at Zafra at sun-rise on the following morning.
An hour before our battalion marched from Benveneida, the wife of a
private soldier of the 3rd company presented her lord and master with
two fine chubby boys. On the two being presented to the astonished
father, he exclaimed, in accents of the deepest despair, "Gude preserve
me, Betty Watt, what can I do wi' them?"
On the day we returned to Zafra an officer received over three
inhabited, and four uninhabited houses for the use of his company.
The latter had neither doors nor windows, and the floors were covered
with nastiness of every description. Notwithstanding this, however,
the acting captain retained the best house to himself; and as he would
not share it with the other officers, they, as a matter of course,
were compelled to occupy the only other one which could accommodate
them,--a house large enough to have held the whole company. The
other house being very small, six men only found shelter under its
roof. The consequence of this selfish conduct I need not point out,
farther than this, that it drew upon the head of the principal actor
a degree of odium which he could never remove. From this it is
sufficiently obvious, that in the distribution of quarters, officers
commanding companies should never permit any thing like selfishness or
partiality to appear in any part of their conduct. On the contrary,
they should invariably hand over to the non-commissioned officers
and privates, the houses best calculated for their accommodation,
although the honourable, and really humane act, may have the effect of
circumscribing their own personal comforts.
In regard to the quartering of troops, I trust the following hint may
be of some use to those military gentlemen who have not yet had an
opportunity of performing that duty on foreign service.
On receiving over the houses intended for the accommodation of his
company, the officer in charge of it should visit the quarters along
with a sergeant, who should be made to pace every apartment, and mark
on a piece of paper the size of each in square yards, reckoning each
pace a yard. On this being done, all that remains for the officer to
do, is to sum up the whole, then divide it by the number of men in the
company; the result will shew him at one glance the exact space which
each individual is entitled to, whether that may be one square yard or
twenty.
On entering the square of Zafra with a few friends, about ten o'clock
in the morning of the 28th of July, we beheld with sincere sorrow
the Marquis of Almeida flying from one place to another, and with
a stentorian voice offering to bet thirty doubloons to one that IT
_was true_. I say sincere sorrow, for _not knowing the cause_ of his
offering such odds, we really fancied that the noble patriot had gone
mad. On getting a little nearer, however, we were informed that a
Spaniard, an entire stranger, had waited upon the chief magistrate a
short time before, and given him an interesting account of a battle
fought near Salamanca, on the 22d July, between Lord Wellington and
Marshal Marmont, in which the latter had been totally defeated. Daily
expecting to hear of the retreat of the northern army into Portugal, no
one gave credit to the poor man's story but the Marquis. Indeed some
threw out hints of the man being a spy. On this being reported to him,
he instantly made a voluntary tender of his person to be incarcerated
in the common jail till the official dispatches arrived, when he could
be punished if found to have deviated from the truth. I need scarcely
add, that on the arrival of the official account next morning, he was
permitted to return to the banks of the Tormes, having previously
received something more substantial than empty thanks for his patriotic
conduct in travelling such a distance with no other object in view than
to be the first to give the gratifying intelligence of the victory to
the British General and his patriotic countrymen in Estremadura.
The French troops in and around Hornachos having been reinforced to
an extent, which caused considerable uneasiness to our General for
the safety of our cavalry stationed at Villa-Franca, the 1st and 2d
brigades of infantry moved from Zafra a little before mid-night on
the 28th of July, and at eight o'clock next morning encamped close
to Villa-Franca. On the march Sir Rowland Hill was so kind as to
communicate to us the heart-stirring tidings from Lord Wellington on
the banks of the Tormes, which, as may be supposed, were received by
officers and men with a universal burst of applause. In the evening
the troops were ordered a double allowance of grog, to drink in
a full-flowing cup the health of Lord Wellington and his gallant
companions.
Every thing being quiet at Villa-Franca, we quitted our encampment
on the 31st, and moved to Fuente del-Maestre. General L'Allemand
having attacked our cavalry in front of Villa-Franca, early next
morning our brigade was ordered to move to their assistance with all
possible dispatch. We had proceeded about half-way, when we were
desired to return; but we had scarcely commenced our retrograde
movement, when a third order made us again wheel to the right-about,
and proceed according to our original instructions. This marching and
counter-marching, under a broiling sun, we cheerfully put up with,
knowing it was caused by the movements of the enemy; but we could not
so easily prevail upon ourselves to forgive the tardy movements of
those who kept us roasting three hours in the streets of Villa-Franca,
before they handed over the quarters allotted to the brigade.
Between small, ill-ventilated rooms, an over-heated atmosphere, and
empty purses, our situation in Villa-Franca was far from an enviable
one. During our stay, many of us were cooped up in apartments, into
which no thrifty housewife would have put her pigs, even for a single
night. By repeated threats of a morning visit from the enemy, it was
deemed advisable to detach five companies of infantry two miles to the
front, every evening a little before sun-set, to render assistance to
the cavalry and infantry piquets, in case of an attack. About eight
o'clock one evening, when the right wing of the 92d regiment, under
Colonel Cameron, happened to be on this duty, a smart tirailleur fire,
in the direction of Villa-Franca, struck with astonishment the ears
of the Highland Colonel. Convinced that the French had eluded the
vigilance of our out-posts, and penetrated to the town, he ordered
small piquets to be posted around the main body, and dispatched
an officer and a few files of men towards Villa-Franca, to obtain
intelligence. Night-marching almost every soldier detests,--for
night-fighting few have a greater relish,--consequently the feelings of
the men were wound up to the highest pitch, the situation in which they
found themselves placed being one of those which no soldier admires.
An hour and a-half passed away, and there were no tidings of the party
sent towards the town. Despairing of seeing it again, a second was
about to set out on a similar errand, when the other returned with a
message from Sir William Erskine, commanding in Villa-Franca, which at
length satisfied us that the ominous sounds which had disturbed our
repose, proceeded, not from the muskets of an enemy, but from those of
a loyal and joyous people, who had adopted the above mode of testifying
their loyalty to their King, and gratitude to the British General, for
wresting their CAPITAL from the iron grasp of a ruthless despot.
At day-break on the following morning, the enemy, anxious no doubt to
ascertain the cause of the firing, attacked our cavalry, and captured
three of the heavy brigade. This shews that there is little pleasure to
be enjoyed unmixed with a proportion of the ills or inconveniences of
life,--for,
Something that's bitter will arise,
In the midst of all our jollities.
At an early hour on the 28th of August, we took leave of Villa-Franca
without the smallest regret, and with the other brigades moved toward
Llerena. In the afternoon the 1st brigade occupied Usagre, and on the
following day joined the other brigades in a field near Villa-Garcia.
Early on the 30th we quitted the above encampment, but instead of
marching directly upon Llerena as we anticipated, we filed to the left,
and in the afternoon encamped on a height a short distance from Llera.
Next day we entered El-Campilo, remained in it till sun-set, then left
it and bivouacked in the vicinity. Before day-light, on the 1st of
September, we directed our steps towards Zalamea, which, after a very
fatiguing march of fourteen hours, under a scorching sun, and over a
parched desert, we entered and took possession of considerable stores
of grain left behind by the enemy. Here we met with a very flattering
reception from the inhabitants, and really we required it to keep up
our spirits; for the want of water was so severely felt by the whole
of the pedestrian portion of the procession, that as often as a little
pool of thin _mire_ fell in our way, hundreds scrambled for even one
little cup of the nauseous draught. The following morning we marched
to Quintana,--on the 3d we entered Maguela,--and next forenoon again
occupied Don Benito.
On receiving notice that Marshal Soult had raised the siege of Cadiz,
the constituted authorities in Don Benito made every preparation to
celebrate the gratifying event with eclat. For this purpose the new
constitution was ordered to be proclaimed on the 7th September, and an
illumination for the same evening. Accordingly, the magistrates and
principal inhabitants walked in procession to hustings erected in the
grand square, where, at twelve o'clock, the ceremony was performed,
amid deafening shouts of assembled thousands. In the evening the town
was _brilliantly illuminated_, every window emitting a light equally
refulgent as that produced by a
"Little farthing rush-light."
The people, however, seemed quite delighted with the display, and it
was _our policy_, no less than _our duty_, to express ourselves pleased
with it also.
The retreat of Marshal Soult from Cadiz, in the direction of Valencia,
and that of the Count D'Erlon from the banks of the Guadiana to join
him, having rendered our stay in Estremadura no longer necessary, we
bade adieu to Don Benito on the 13th of September, crossed the Guadiana
at a ford about a mile from the town, and marched to Majaides. Next
morning our brigade occupied Villa-Macia, and on the 15th Truxillo.
Here a few pieces of brass cannon were found under some wood, in the
residence of the noble family of Conquesta, (the descendants of the
great Pizarro,) who were at that time in Cadiz.
We took leave of Truxillo on the 18th of September, and in the evening
bivouacked on the face of a steep bank in front of Jaraceijo. On the
19th we moved through the pass of Merabete, crossed the Tagus by a
pontoon bridge, near to the site of the one which we destroyed four
months before, and encamped in the evening a little in front of Almarez.
The 50th being the rear battalion of the column of march on this
occasion, Colonel Stewart halted it, as soon as the leading files had
arrived at the farther end of the bridge. On forming line, the whole
stood fronting the old tete-du-pont, and Fort Napoleon, in the capture
of which they acted so conspicuous a part. At a signal given to the
men by their gallant leader, the whole gave three times three hearty
cheers, the band all the time playing "God save the king." The whole
battalion appeared quite electrified, and at the close of the ceremony
followed their comrades,--the band playing the "Downfall of Paris,"
and the "British Grenadiers."
Colonel Stewart's conduct on this occasion cannot be too loudly
applauded, or too generally imitated. Officers commanding battalions
should embrace every opportunity in their power of shewing the soldiers
under their command, that although they cannot reward with promotion
all those who signalize themselves in battle, they can appreciate
their merit and gallantry, and bear both in grateful remembrance; for
courage in an army depends very much upon example, and the desire of
being distinguished by the superior officers. Indeed, it is scarcely
possible for any but those who have been in action, to have any idea of
the wonderful effects which are occasionally produced by a kind word
or look from a general or officer, at the head of a battalion on the
field of battle, or with what ardour a private soldier will run into
danger, when he conceives that his conduct is observed by his officers.
A little attention from officers, similar to that bestowed on the 50th
by their colonel at Almarez, will always be more than repaid by their
troops on every occasion, when they are called into action.
On the 20th September, we moved forward to Naval Moral, and
encamped. Next morning we occupied Calzada-de-Orepesa, and on the
22nd La-Gartera. A little before mid-night on the 25th, we marched
from the latter place, and at ten o'clock next morning, entered
Talavera-de-la-Reina, amid the noisy acclamations of almost the whole
population.
Talavera is immortalized by the victory obtained by Sir Arthur
Wellesley over the French army, on the 28th of July 1809. Previous to
the French invasion, the city, which stands on the right bank of the
Tagus, was one of the most beautiful and flourishing in Spain. But we
found all the streets nearest the bridge in ruins, many of the others
greatly injured; in short, the whole town, with the exception of a few
streets, in a state of complete dilapidation.
The inhabitants talked incessantly of the battle of Talavera, and were
perfectly deafening in their praises of Lord Wellington and Sir Rowland
Hill. In fact, they never pronounced the name of the latter, but in
terms of glowing admiration. His desperate defence of the eminence on
the left of the British position, which secured the victory, has gained
him an imperishable name in Spain. Centuries may pass away, but to the
latest ages, the kind people of Talavera will venerate the name of a
British soldier.
With very considerable regret we took leave of the warm-hearted
Talaverians, and directed our steps towards Toledo. Soon after crossing
the Alberche, the road leads into a vineyard, several miles in length,
and which on the right and left extends to a considerable distance. The
grapes, ripe and delicious, were overhanging the foot-paths in such a
manner, that we would have required no small portion of the nautical
skill of a Commodore Trunnion to pursue our course, without coming
in contact with the beautiful clusters which hung around us in most
inviting positions. Before mid-day we arrived at Cybola, where a _cool_
reception awaited the _Highlanders_.
When Sir John Hope was detached with a division of the British army
towards Madrid, in November 1808, he selected amongst others for that
duty, the 71st and 92nd regiments. From some petty cause or other,
the private soldiers of these regiments were not on the most friendly
terms. From a year's residence in South America, many of the 71st could
speak the Spanish language with considerable fluency, which gave them
a decided advantage over their friends in their daily intercourse with
the natives. Taking advantage of this circumstance, some of the 71st
insinuated on various occasions, and at different places, that the 92nd
regiment was a disgraced corps, and in proof of their assertion, they
never failed to point to the _kilt_, which, they affirmed, the king had
condemned them to wear as a mark of infamy for misconduct before the
enemy. This, like all other tales of scandal, spread like wildfire, and
in time reached the ears of the worthy Cybolians.
A corps of cowards being too rare, and by far too curious a sight even
in Spain, to be lost for a little personal trouble, the villagers,
on hearing of the arrival of the 92nd at Talavera, proceeded, some to
the latter, others to the high road from it to the capital, to get a
peep at the _brave men_ whom George III. had sent to assist in driving
the usurper from the Peninsula. From that day they had considered the
Highlanders as a corps in disgrace, and consequently, when the latter
entered their village on the 26th of September, they were looked upon
as men totally unworthy of the notice of the meanest inhabitant. But
when an explanation took place, the people laughed immoderately at
their own credulity, and it was no sooner known in the town, that
instead of a mark of disgrace, the kilt had been given to them as a
mark of His Majesty's confidence and regard, than the whole country
was inundated with the Highlanders, proceeding by invitation of the
inhabitants, to partake of the delicious fruits which their richly
stored vineyards afforded.
Next morning we proceeded towards Torrijos, where we arrived about one,
P.M. During our march we passed five or six considerable towns, at all
of which the people received us with the utmost demonstrations of joy.
On approaching the gates of Torrijos, Sir Rowland Hill was received
by the magistrates in their robes,--they gave him a hearty welcome
within their walls, and in honour of the event, ordered the town to be
illuminated the same evening. The display here was infinitely superior
to that at Don Benito.
The sun found us considerably advanced on the road to Toledo, when,
for the first time, he shewed his cheering countenance on the morning
of the 29th. About a mile from the gates, the magistrates in their
scarlet robes, the governor, the famous Guerilla chief, El-Medico, and
a great many of the first nobility and gentry residing in the city,
congratulated Sir Rowland Hill on the favourable state of affairs, and
gave him a most cordial welcome within the walls of their ancient city.
As we proceeded from the gates towards the grand square, the cheers
of welcome which assailed us from every door, every window, and every
balcony, were truly electrifying. Joy beamed in every countenance; and
amongst numerous loyal ejaculations, "Long live kind George III.!"
"Long live Wellington!" "Long live Hill!" and "Long live Ferdinand
VII.!" fell from the lips of delighted thousands. In the principal
square, the front of every house was literally covered with the symbols
of joy used in Spain on similar occasions, viz. quilts of every
description, sheets, silk flags, and handkerchiefs, and as we were the
first British troops that had ever been in Toledo, the city was most
brilliantly illuminated in the evening.
Toledo, once the capital of Spain, stands upon a rock, three sides of
which are washed by the Tagus, which, murmuring sullenly as it rolls
over its rugged bed, adds considerably to the romantic scenery around.
The streets are narrow, but well paved, and kept tolerably clean. The
precautions adopted by the inhabitants to exclude the rays of the sun
from the interior of their dwellings, are so effectual, that on a clear
summer day, a stranger seated in the most spacious room, would be apt
to fancy the hour twelve mid-night, when it was only twelve mid-day.
Toledo was at one time famous for its manufacture of sword-blades; but
the mode of making them being known only to the manufacturer, no real
_Toledo_ blade can now be had but at a prodigiously high price. So
excellent was the material of which the blades were manufactured, and
so careful was the maker of his reputation, that if the least notch
appeared on the edge of a blade after undergoing the operations of
tempering, and striking repeatedly on a sharp iron instrument, it was
instantly thrown aside as a piece of old iron.
Early on the 30th, we crossed the Tagus by a stone bridge, almost under
the walls of the city, marched four leagues, and encamped in a rich
valley between the ruinous village of Villa-Major and the river. On the
1st of October we occupied Aranjuez.
Sometime previous to our leaving Toledo on the 30th, various itinerant
spirit-merchants hovered on our flanks, and to the annoyance of every
person in the brigade, kept bawling the name and quality of the
commodity they had for sale. Anxious to obtain a ready sale for their
wares, the spirited gentlemen were frequently not over scrupulous in
soliciting the favours of their foreign friends. On approaching to
where Colonel Cameron of the 92nd regiment was standing giving orders
to his battalion, one of the merchants, with a very large bottle under
his arm, roared out, "Aquerdente, Senhores, Aquerdente," and was just
on the point of repeating the dose in the Colonel's ears, when the
latter gave the "_big belly'd bottle_" such a whack, that in an instant
it was flying through the air in a thousand pieces. On perceiving the
fate of his best friend, the poor itinerant bounded forward like an
antelope, and after throwing down a dozen or two in his progress, fled
with the speed of lightning, lest his head should share the fate of
his bottle, and his brains, like his brandy, be made to sprinkle the
pavement of Toledo, by the talismanic wand of the Highland chief.