Saturday June 14th 1806
Sent out Hunters this morning Colter killed a deer and brought it in by
10 A M Drewyer did not return untill night he wounded deer but could
get none &c ____ neither of the other hunters killed nothing. we had
our articles packed up ready for a Start in the morning, our horses
Collected and hobble that they may not detain us in the morning. we
expect to Set out early, and Shall proceed with as much expedition as
possible over those Snowey tremendious mountains which has detained us
near five weeks in this neighbourhood waiting for the Snows to melt
Sufficent for us to pass over them. and even now I Shudder with the
expectation with great dificuelties in passing those Mountains, from
the debth of Snow and the want of grass Sufficient to Subsist our
horses as about 4 days we Shall be on the top of the Mountain which we
have every reason to beleive is Covered with Snow the greater part of
the year.
[Lewis, June 15, 1806]
Sunday June 15th 1806.
We had some little difficulty in collecting our horses this morning
they had straggled off to a greater distance than usual. it rained very
hard in the morning and after collecting our horses we waited for it to
abait, but as it had every appearance of a settled rain we set out at
10 A.M. we passed a little prarie at the distance of 81/2 me. to which
we had previously sent R. Feilds and Willard. we found two deer which
they had killed and hung up. at the distance of 21/2 miles further we
arrived at Collins's Creek where we found our hunters; they had killed
another deer, and had seen two large bear together the one black and
the other white. we halted at the creek, dined and graized our horses.
the rains have rendered the road very slippery insomuch that it is with
much difficulty our horses can get on several of them fell but
sustained no injury. after dinner we proceeded up the creek about 1/2 a
mile, passing it three times, thence through a high broken country to
an Easterly fork of the same creek about 101/2 miles and incamped near
a small prarie in the bottom land the fallen timber in addition to the
slippry roads made our march slow and extreemly laborious on our
horses. the country is exceedingly thickly timbered with long leafed
pine, some pitch pine, larch, white pine, white cedar or arborvita of
large size, and a variety of firs. the undergrowth principally reed
root from 6 to 10 feet high with all the other speceis enumerated the
other day. the soil is good; in some plaices it is of a red cast like
our lands in Virginia about the S. W. mountains. Saw the speckled
woodpecker, bee martin and log cock or large woodpecker. found the nest
of a humming bird, it had just began to lay its eggs.--Came 22 Miles
today.
[Clark, June 15, 1806]
Sunday June 15th 1806
Collected our horses early with the intention of makeing an early
Start. Some hard Showers of rain detained us untill ____ A M at which
time we took our final departure from the quawmash fields and proceeded
with much dificuelty owing to the Situation of the road which was very
Sliprey, and it was with great dificulty that the loaded horses Could
assend the hills and Mountains they frequently Sliped down both
assending and decending those Steep hills. at g miles we passed through
a Small prarie in which was quawmash in this Prarie Reubin Fields &
Willard had killed and hung up two deer at 2 miles further we arrived
at the Camp of R. Fields & Willard on Collin's Creek, they arrived at
this Creek last evening and had killed another Deer near the Creek.
here we let our horses graze in a Small glade and took dinner. the rain
Seased and Sun Shown out. after detaining about 2 hours we proceeded on
passing the Creek three times and passing over Some ruged hills or
Spurs of the rocky Mountain, passing the Creek on which I encamped on
the 17th Septr. last to a Small glade of about 10 acres thickly Covered
with grass and quawmash, near a large Creek and encamped. we passed
through bad fallen timber and a high Mountain this evening. from the
top of this Mountain I had an extensive view of the rocky Mountains to
the South and the Columbian plains for great extent also the S W.
Mountains and a range of high Mountains which divides the waters of
Lewis's & Clarks rivers and seems to termonate nearly a West Cours.
Several high pts. to the N & N. E. Covered with Snow. a remarkable high
rugd mountain in the forks of Lewis's river nearly South and covered
with Snow. The vally up the Chopunnish river appears extensive
tolerably leavel and Covered with timber. The S W. Mountain is very
high in a S S W. derection.
[Lewis, June 16, 1806]
Monday June 16th 1806.
We collected our horses very readily this morning, took breakfast and
set out at 6 A.M.; proceeded up the creek about 2 miles through some
handsom meadows of fine grass abounding with quawmash, here we passed
the creek & ascended a ridge which led us to the N. E. about seven
miles when we arrived at a small branch of hungry creek. the difficulty
we met with from the fallen timber detained us untill 11 oC before we
reached this place. here is a handsome little glade in which we found
some grass for our horses we therefore halted to let them graize and
took dinner knowing that there was no other convenient situation for
that purpose short of the glaids on hungry creek where we intended to
encamp, as the last probable place, at which we shall find a sufficient
quantity of grass for many days. this morning Windsor busted his rifle
near the muzzle. before we reached this little branch on which we dined
we saw in the hollows and N. hillsides large quatities of snow yet
undisolved; in some places it was from two to three feet deep.
vegetation is proportionably backward; the dogtooth violet is just in
blume, the honeysuckle, huckburry and a small speceis of white maple
are begining to put fourth their leaves; these appearances in this
comparatively low region augers but unfavourably with rispect to the
practibility of passing the mountains, however we determined to
proceed, accordingly after taking a haisty meal we set out and
continued our rout though a thick wood much obstructed with fallen
timber, and intersepted by many steep ravines and high hills. the snow
has increased in quantity so much that the greater part of our rout
this evening was over the snow which has become sufficiently firm to
bear our horshes, otherwise it would have been impossible for us to
proceed as it lay in immence masses in some places 8 or ten feet deep.
we found much difficulty in pursuing the road as it was so frequently
covered with snow. we arrived early in the evening at the place that
Capt. C. had killed and left the flesh of a horse for us last
September. here is a small glade in which there was some grass, not a
sufficiency for our horses but we thought it most advisable to remain
here all night as we apprehended if we proceeded further we should find
less grass. the air is pleasent in the course of the day but becomes
very cold before morning notwithstanding the shortness of the nights.
Hungry creek is but small at this place but is deep and runs a perfect
torrent; the water is perfectly transparent and as cold as ice. the
pitch pine, white pine some larch and firs constite the timber; the
long leafed pine extends a little distance on this side of the main
branch of Collins's creek, and the white cedar not further than the
branch of hungry creek on which we dined. I killed a small brown
pheasant today, it feeds on the tender leaves and buds of the fir and
pitch pine. in the fore part of the day I observed the Cullumbine the
blue bells and the yelow flowering pea in blume. there is an abundance
of a speceis of anjelico in these mountains, much stonger to the taist
and more highly scented than that speceis common to the U States. know
of no particular virtue or property it possesses; the natives dry it
cut it in small peices which they string on a small cord and place
about their necks; it smells very pleasantly. we came 15 miles today.
[Clark, June 16, 1806]
Monday June 16th 1806
Collected our horses early and Set Out 7 A M proceeded on up the Creek
through a gladey Swompy bottom with grass and quawmash Crossed the
Creek to the East and proceeded on through most intolerable bad fallen
timber over a high Mountain on which great quantity of Snow is yet
lying premisquissly through the thick wood, and in maney places the
banks of snow is 4 feet deep. we noned it or dined on a Small Creek in
a small open Vally where we found Some grass for our horses to eate,
altho Serounded by Snow no other Convenient Situation Short of the
glades on Hungery Creek where we intended to encamp, as the last
probable place, at which we Shall find a Sufficent quantity of grass
for maney days. This morning Windsor bursted his rifle near the Muzzle.
Vigitation is propotionable backward; the dog tooth Violet is just in
blume, the honeysuckle, huckleberry and a Small Species of white maple
are beginning to put foth their leaves, where they are clear of the
Snow, those appearances in this comparratively low region augers but
unfavourably with respect to the practibility of passing the Mountains,
however we deturmine to proceed, accordingly after takeing a hasty meal
we Set out and Continued our rout through a thick wood much obstructed
with fallen timber, and interupted by maney Steep reveins and hills
which wer very high. the Snow has increased in quantity So much that
the great part of our rout this evening was over the Snow which has
become Sufficently firm to bear our horses, otherwise it would have
been impossible for us to proceed as it lay in emince masses in Some
places 8 or ten feet deep. We found much dificulty in finding the road,
as it was So frequently covered with Snow. we arived early in the
evening at the place I had killed and left the flesh of a horse for the
party in my rear last Septr. here is a Small glade in which there is
Some grass, not a Sufficency of our horses, but we thought it
adviseable to remain here all night as we apprehended if we proceeded
further we should find less grass. The air is pleasant in the Course of
the day, but becomes very cold before morning not withstanding the
Shortness of the night. Hungary Creek is but Small at this place but is
deep and runs a perfect torrent; the water is perfectly transparent and
as Cold as ice. the titch pine, white pine Some Larch and firs consists
the timber, the long leafed pine extends but a Short distance on the
Mts. Capt. L. killed a Small brown pheasant today, it feeds on the
tender leaves and buds of the fir and pitch pine. in the forepart of
the day I observed the Cullumbine the blue bells and the Yellow
flowering pea in blume. there is an abundance of a Species of Anjelico
in the mountains much Stronger to the taiste, and more highly Scented
than that Species common to the U States. I know of no particular
virtue or property it possesses the nativs dry it Cut it in Small
pieces which they string on a Small Cord and place about the necks; it
Smells pleasently. we Come 15 Ms. today.
[Lewis, June 17, 1806]
Tuesday June 17th 1806.
we collected our horses and set out early; we proceeded down hungry
creek about seven miles passing it twice; we found it difficult and
dangerous to pass the creek in consequence of its debth and rapidity;
we avoided two other passes of the creek by ascending a very steep
rocky and difficult hill. beyond this creek the road ascends the
mountain to the hight of the main leading ridges which divides the
Waters of the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers. this hill or reather
mountain we ascended about 3 miles when we found ourselves invelloped
in snow from 12 to 15 feet deep even on the south sides of the hills
with the fairest exposure to the sun; here was winter with all it's
rigors; the air was cold, my hands and feet were benumbed. we knew that
it would require five days to reach the fish wears at the entrance of
Colt Creek, provided we were so fortunate as to be enabled to follow
the proper ridges of the mountains to lead us to that place; short of
that point we could not hope for any food for our horses not even
underwood itself as the whole was covered many feet deep in snow. if we
proceeded and should get bewildered in these mountains the certainty
was that we should loose all our horses and consequently our baggage
instruments perhaps our papers and thus eminently wrisk the loss of the
discoveries which we had already made if we should be so fortunate as
to escape with life. the snow boar our horses very well and the
travelling was therefore infinitely better that the obstruction of
rocks and fallen timber which we met with in our passage over last fall
when the snow lay on this part of the ridge in detached spots only.
under these circumstances we conceived it madnes in this stage of the
expedition to proceed without a guide who could certainly conduct us to
the fish wears on the Kooskooske, as our horses could not possibly
sustain a journey of more than five days without food. we therefore
came to the resolution to return with our horses while they were yet
strong and in good order and indevour to keep them so untill we could
procure an indian to conduct us over the snowey mountains, and again to
proceed as soon as we could procure such a guide, knowing from the
appearance of the snows that if we remained untill it had desolved
sufficiently for us to follow the road that we should not be enabled to
return to the United States within this season. having come to this
resolution, we ordered the party to make a deposit for all the baggage
which we had not immediate use for, and also all the roots and bread of
cows which they had except an allowance for a few days to enable them
to return to some place at which we could subsist by hunting untill we
procured a guide. we left our instruments papers &c beleiving them
safer here than to wrisk them on horseback over the roads and creeks
which we had passed. our baggage being laid on scaffoalds and well
covered we began our retrograde march at 1 P.M. having remained about 3
hours on this snowey mountain. we returned by the rout we had come to
hungry creek, which we ascended about 2 miles and encamped. we had here
more grass for our horses than the preceeding evening yet it was but
scant. the party were a good deel dejected tho not so as I had
apprehended they would have been. this is the first time since we have
been on this long tour that we have ever been compelled to retreat or
make a retrograde march. it rained on us most of this evening.
[Clark, June 17, 1806]
Tuesday June 17th 1806
We Collected our horses and Set out early; we proceeded down hungary
Creek about 7 miles passing it twice; we found it dificuelt and
dangerous to pass the creek in consequence of it's debth and rapidity;
we avoided two other passes of the creek, by assending a Steep rockey
and difficuelt hill. beyond this Creek the road assends the mountain to
the hight of the main leading ridges, which divides the waters of the
Kooskooske and Chopunnish Riv's. This mountain we ascended about 3
miles when we found ourselves invelloped in snow from 8 to 12 feet deep
even on the South Side of the mountain. I was in front and Could only
prosue the derection of the road by the trees which had been peeled by
the nativs for the iner bark of which they Scraped and eate, as those
pealed trees were only to be found Scattered promisquisley, I with
great difficulty prosued the direction of the road one mile further to
the top of the mountain where I found the Snow from 12 to 15 feet deep,
but fiew trees with the fairest exposure to the Sun; here was Winter
with all it's rigors; the air was Cold my hands and feet were benumed.
we knew that it would require four days to reach the fish weare at the
enterance of Colt Creek, provided we were So fortunate as to be enabled
to follow the poper ridge of the mountains to lead us to that place; of
this all of our most expert woodsmen and principal guides were
extreemly doubtfull; Short of that point we could not hope for any food
for our horses not even under wood itself as the whole was covered many
feet deep in Snow. if we proceeded and Should git bewildered in those
Mountains the Certainty was that we Should lose all of our horses and
consequencely our baggage enstrements perhaps our papers and thus
eventially resque the loss of our discoveries which we had already made
if we Should be So fortunate as to escape with life. the Snow bore our
horses very well and the traveling was therefore infinately better than
the obstruction of rocks and fallen timber which we met with in our
passage over last fall when the Snow lay on this part of the ridge in
detached spops only. under these Circumstances we Conceived it madness
in this stage of the expedition to proceed without a guide who Could
Certainly Conduct us to the fishwears on the Kooskooske, as our horses
could not possibly Sustain a journey of more than 4 or 5 days without
food. we therefore Come to the resolution to return with our horses
while they were yet strong and in good order, and indeaver to keep them
So untill we could precure an indian to conduct us over the Snowey
Mountains, and again to proceed as soon as we could precure Such a
guide, knowing from the appearance of the snows that if we remained
untill it had disolved Sufficiently for us to follow the road that we
Should not be enabled to return to the United States within this
Season. having come to this resolution, we ordered the party to make a
deposit of all the baggage which we had not imediate use for, and also
all the roots and bread of Cows which they had except an allowance for
a fiew days to enable them to return to Some place at which we could
Subsist by hunting untill we precured a guide. we left our instrements,
and I even left the most of my papers believing them Safer here than to
Wrisk them on horseback over the road, rocks and water which we had
passed. our baggage being laid on Scaffolds and well covered, we began
our retragrade march at 1 P.M. haveing remain'd about three hours on
this Snowey mountain. we returned by the rout we had advanced to
hungary Creek, which we assended about 2 miles and encamped. we had
here more grass for our horses than the proceeding evening, yet it was
but scant. the party were a good deel dejected, tho not as much So as I
had apprehended they would have been. this is the first time Since we
have been on this long tour that we have ever been compelled to retreat
or make a retragrade march. it rained on us the most of this evening.
on the top of the Mountain the Weather was very fluctiating and
uncertain snowed cloudy & fair in a few minets.
[Lewis, June 18, 1806]
Wednesday June 18th 1806.
This morning we had considerable difficulty in collecting our horses
they having straggled off to a considerable distance in surch of food
on the sides of the mountains among the thick timber; at 9 OCk. we
collected them all except one of Drewyers and one of Sheildes; we set
out leaving Sheilds and LaPage to collect the two lost horses and
follow us. We dispatched Drewyer and Shannon to the Chopunnish Indians
in the plains beyond the Kooskooske in order to hasten the arrival of
the indians who had promised to accompany us or to procure a gude at
all events and rejoin us as soon as possible. we sent by them a rifle
which we offered as a reward to any of them who would engage to conduct
us to traveller's rest; we also dirrected them if they found difficulty
in induciny any of them to accompany us to offer the reward of two
other guns to be given them immediately and ten horses at the falls of
Missouri. we had not proceeded far this morning before Potts cut his
leg very badly with one of the large knives; he cut one of the large
veigns on the inner side of the leg; I found much difficulty in stoping
the blood which I could not effect untill I applyed a tight bandage
with a little cushon of wood and tow on the veign below the wound.
Colter's horse fel with him in passing hungry creek and himself and
horse were driven down the creek a considerable distance rolling over
each other among the rocks. he fortunately escaped without injury or
the loss of his gun. by 1 P.M. we returned to the glade on the branch
of hungry Creek where we had dined on the 16th inst. here we again
halted and dined. as there was much appearance of deer about this place
we left R. and J. Feilds with directions to hunt this evening and
tomorrow morning at this place and to join us in the evening at the
meadows of Collin's creek where we intend remaining tomorrow in order
to rest our horses and hunt. after dinner we proceeded on to Collin's
Creek and encamped in a pleasant situation at the upper part of the
meadows about 2 ms. above our encampment of the 15th inst. we sent out
several hunters but they returned without having killed anything. they
saw a number of salmon in the creek and shot at them several times
without success. we directed Colter and Gibson to fix each of them a
gigg in the morning and indevour to take some of the salmon. the
hunters saw much fresh appearance of bear but very little of deer. we
hope by means of the fish together with what deer and bear we can kill
to be enabled to subsist untill our guide arrives without the necessity
of returning to the quawmash flats. there is a great abundance of good
food here to sustain our horses.
[Clark, June 18, 1806]
Wednesday June 18th 1806
This morning we had considerable dificuelty in collecting our horses
they haveing Strageled of to a considerable distance in Serch of food
on the Sides of the mountains among the thick timber, at 9 oClock we
Collected them all except 2 one of Shields & one of Drewyer's. we Set
out leaving Shields and LePage to collect the two lost horses and
follow us.
We dispatched Drewyer and Shannon to the Chopunnish Indians in the
plains beyond the Kooskooske in order to hasten the arrival of the
Indians who promised to accompany us, or to precure a guide at all
events and rejoin us as Soon as possible. We Sent by them a riffle
which we offered as a reward to any of them who would engage to conduct
us to Clarks river at the entrance of Travellers rest Creek; we also
directed them if they found difficuelty in induceing any of them to
accompany us to offer the reward of two other guns to be given them
immediately and ten horses at the falls of Missouri. we had not
proceeded far this morning before J. Potts cut his leg very badly with
one of the large knives; he cut one of the large veins on the iner side
of the leg; Colters horse fell with him in passing hungary creek and
himself and horse were driven down the Creek a considerable distance
roleing over each other among the rocks. he fortunately escaped without
much injurey or the loss of his gun. he lost his blanket. at 1 P. M we
returned to the glade on a branch of hungary Creek where we had dined
on the 16th instant. here we again halted and dined. as there was some
appearance of deer about this place we left J. & R Field with
directions to hunt this evening and tomorrow morning at this place and
join us in the evening in the Meadows on Collin's Creek where we
intended to remain tomorrow in order to restour horses and hunt. after
dinner we proceeded on to the near fork of Collins Creek and encamped
in a pleasant Situation at the upper part of the Meadows about 2 miles
above our encampment of the 15th inst. we Sent out Several hunters but
they returned without having killed any thing-. they saw a number of
large fish in the Creek and Shot at them Several times without
Suckcess. we Gibson and Colter to fix each of themselves a gigg in the
morning and indeaver to take Some of those fish. the hunters Saw much
fresh appearance of Bear, but very little deer Sign. we hope by the
means of the fish together with what deer and bear we can kill to been
abled to Subsist untill our guide arives without the necessaty of
returning to the quawmash flats. there is great abundance of good food
here to Sustain our horses. we are in flattering expectations of the
arrival of two young chiefs who informed us that they intended to
accompany us to the U. States, and Should Set out from their village in
9 nights after we left them on the 19th inst. if they Set out at that
time Drewyer & Shannon will meet them, and probably join us on the 20th
or 21st-. Musquetors Troublesome.
[Lewis, June 19, 1806]
Thursday June 19th 1806.
Our hunters were out very early this morning, they returned before noon
with one deer only. the Fishermen had been more unsuccessfull, they
returned without a single fish and reported they could find but few and
those they had tryed to take in vain. they had broke both their giggs
which were of indian fabrication made of bone. I happened to have a
pointed peice of iron in my pouch which answered by cuting in two
peices to renew boath giggs. they took one fish this evening which
proved to be a salmon trout much to our mortification, for we had hoped
that they were the salmon of this spring arrival and of course fat and
fine. these trout are of the red kind they remain all winter in the
upper parts of the rivers and creeks and are generally poor at this
season. At 2 P.M. J & R Feilds arived with two deer; John Sheilds and
LaPage came with them, they had not succeeded in finding their horses.
late in the evening Frazier reported that my riding horse that of Capt
Clark and his mule had gone on towards the Quawmash flatts and that he
had pursued their tracks on the road about 21/2 miles. we determined to
send out all the hunters in the morning in order to make a fair
experiment of the pactability of our being able to subsist at this
place and if not we shall move the day after to the Quawmash flatts.
the musquetoes have been excessively troublesome to us since our
arrival at this place particularly in the evening. Cruzatte brought me
several large morells which I roasted and eat without salt pepper or
grease in this way I had for the first time the true taist of the
morell which is truly an insippid taistless food. our stock of salt is
now exhausted except two quarts which I have reserved for my tour up
Maria's River and that I left the other day on the mountain.-
[Clark, June 19, 1806]
Thursday June 19th 1806
This morning early Collins Labeesh & Crusat turned out to hunt, and
Gibson & Colter fixed two Indian giggs and went in Serch of fish in the
Creek. I took my gun and walked up the Creek about 4 Miles Saw some
bear Sign and one fish only. Gibson killed only one fish which we found
to be the Salmon Trout of the dark Species. this fish was of the common
Size pore, and indifferently flavoured. Labeesh killed one Deer neither
of the others killed any thing. about 1 P.M. Jo. & R Fields Shields &
LaPage came up. Reubin &Joseph Fields brought two Deer which R. had
killed in the Small glade on a branch of Hungary Creek where we had
left them yesterday. Shields & LaPage did not find the two horses which
we lost yesterday morning. they report that they hunted with great
diligence in the vicinity of our camp of the 17th without suckcess. in
my walk of this day up the Creek I observed a great abundance of fine
grass sufficient to Sustain our horses any length of time we chose to
Stay at this place. Several glades of quawmash. the S W. Sides of the
hills is fallen timber and burnt woods, the N. E. Sides of the hills is
thickly timbered with lofty pine, and thick under growth This evening
Several Salmon trout were Seen in the Creek, they hid themselves under
the banks of the Creek which jutted over in Such a manner as to secure
them from the Stroke of our giggs nets and spears which were made for
the purpose of taking those Salmon trout. we concluded to delay at this
place another day with a view to give time to the two young Chiefs to
arrive in case they set out on the 19th inst. as they informed us they
Should they will have Sufficient time to join us tomorrow or early the
next day. Should we get a guide from this place it will Save us two
days march through some of the worst road through those Mountains,
crouded with fallin timber mud holes and steep hills &c. we directed
all the hunters to turn out early and kill something for us to live on
&c. Musquetors troublesom
[Lewis, June 20, 1806]
Friday June 20th 1806.
Our hunters set out early this morning; most of them returned before
noon. R. Feilds killed a brown bear the tallons of which were
remarkably short broad at their base and sharply pointed this was of
the speceis which the Chopunnish call Yah-kar. it was in very low order
and the flesh of the bear in this situation is much inferior to lean
venison or the flesh of poor Elk. Labush and Cruzatte returned late in
the evening with one deer which the former had killed. we also caught
seven salmon trout in the course of the day. the hunters assured us
that their greatest exertions would not enable them to support us here
more than one or two days longer from the great scarcity of game and
the difficult access of the country, the under brush being very thick
and great quantities of fallen timber. as we shall necessarily be
compelled to remain more than two days for the return of Drewyer and
Shannon we determined to return in the morning as far as the quawmash
flatts and indeavour to lay in another stock of meat for the mountains,
our former stock being now nearly exhausted as well as what we have
killed on our return. by returning to the quawmash flatts we shall
sooner be informed whether or not we can procure a guide to conduct us
through the mountains; should we fail in procuring one, we have
determined to wrisk a passage on the following plan immediately,
because should we wait much longer or untill the snow desolves in such
manner as to enable us to follow the road we cannot hope to reach the
United States this winter; this is that Capt. C. or myself shall take
four of our most expert woodsmen with three or four of our best horses
and proceed two days in advance taking a plentiful) supply of
provision. for this party to follow the road by the marks which the
baggage of the indians has made in many places on the sides of the
trees by rubing against them, and to blaize the trees with a tomahawk
as they proceeded. that after proceeding two days in advance of hungary
creek two of those men would be sent back to the main party who by the
time of their return to Hungary Creek would have reached that place.
the men so returning would be enabled to inform the main party of the
probable success of the preceeding party in finding the road and of
their probable progress, in order that should it be necessary, the main
party by the delay of a day or two at hungary creek, should give the
advance time to mark the road through before the main party could
overtake them, and thus prevent delay on the part of the rout where no
food is to be obtained for our horses. should it so happen that the
advance could not find the road by the marks on the trees after
attempting it for two days, the whole of then would return to the main
party. in which case we wold bring back our baggage and attempt a
passage over these mountains through the country of the Shoshones
further to the South by way of the main S. Westerly fork of Lewis's
river and Madison or Gallatin's rivers, where from the information of
the Chopunnish there is a passage which at this season of the year is
not obstructed by snow, though the round is very distant and would
require at least a month in it's performance. The Shoshones informed us
when we first met with them that there was a passage across the
mountains in that quarter but represented the difficulties arrising
from steep high and rugged mountains and also an extensive and barren
plain which was to be passed without game, as infinitely more difficult
than the rout by which we came. from the circumstance of the Chopunnish
being at war with that part of the Shoshones who inhabit the country on
this side of the Mountains through which the road passes I think it is
highly probable that they cannot be well informed with rispect to the
road, and further, had there been a better road in that quarter the
Shoshones on the East fork of Lewis's river who knew them both would
not have recommended that by which we came to this country. the
travelling in the mountains on the snow at present is very good, the
snow bears the horses perfictly; it is a firm coase snow without a
crust, and the horses have good foot hold without sliping much; the
only dificulty is finding the road, and I think the plan we have
devised will succeed even should we not be enabled to obtain a guide.
Although the snow may be stated on an average at 10 feet deep yet
arround the bodies of the trees it has desolved much more than in other
parts not being generally more than one or two feet deep immediately at
the roots of the trees, and; of course the marks left by the rubing of
the indian baggage against them is not concealed. the reason why the
snow is comparitively so shallow about the roots of the trees I presume
proceeds as well from the snow in falling being thrown off from their
bodies by their thick and spreading branches as from the reflection of
the sun against the trees and the warmth which they in some measure
acquire from the earth which is never frozen underneath these masses of
snow. Bratton's horse was also discovered to be absent this evening. I
presume he has also returned to the flatts.
[Clark, June 20, 1806]
Friday June 20th 1806
The hunters turned out early in different directions, our guiggers also
turned out with 2 guigs a Bayonet fixed on a pole, a Scooping nett and
a Snar made of horse. near the ford of the Creek in a deep hole we
killed Six Salmon trout & 2 others were killed in the Creek above in
the evening. Reubin Field killed a redish brown bear which was very
meagure. the tallons of this bear was remarkably Short broad at their
base and Sharply pointed, this was of the Species the Chopunnish call
Yahkar. as it was in very low order the flesh was indifferent. Labiesh
& Crusat returned late in the evening with one deer which the former
had killed. the hunters assured us that, their greatest exertions would
not enable them to support us here more than one or two days longer,
from the great scercity of game and the dificuelt access of the
Country, the under brush being very thick and great quantities of
fallen timber. as we shall necessarily be compelled to remain more than
two days for the return of Drewyer & Shannon we determine to return in
the morning as far as the quawmash flatts, and endeaver to lay in
another Stock of meat for the mountains, our former Stock now being
nearly exhosted as well as what we have killed on our rout. by
returning to the quawmash flatts we Shall Sooner be informed wheather
or not we can precure a guide to conduct us through the Mountains;
Should we fail in precureing one, we are deturmined to wrisk a passage
on the following plan immediately, because Should we wait much longer,
or untill the Snow disolves in Such manner as to enable us to follow
the road we cannot expect to reach the U States this Winter; this is
that Capt. L. or myself shall take four of our most expert woods men
with 3 or four of our best horses and proceed two days in advance
takeing a plentiful Supply of provisions. for this party to follow the
road by the mark the indins have made in many places with their baggage
on the Sides of the trees by rubbing against them, and to blaize the
trees with a tomahawk as they proceed. that after proceeding two days
in advance of Hungary Creek, two of those men would be sent back to the
party who by the time of their return to hungary Creek would have
reached that place. the men So returning would be enabled to inform the
main party of the probable Suckcess of the proceeding party in finding
the road and of their probable progress, in order that Should it be
necessary, the main party by a delay of a day or two a hungary Creek,
should give the advance time to make the road through before the main
party could overtake them, and thus prevent delay on that part of the
rout where no food is to be obtained for our horses. Should it So
happen that the advance Should not find the road by the marks of the
trees after attempting it for two days, the whole of them would return
to the main party. in which Case we would bring back our baggage and
attempt a passage over the Mountains through the Country of the
Shoshones further to the South, by way of the main S Westerly fork of
Lewis's river and Madisons or Gallitins river's, where from the
information of the Chopunnish, there is a passage where at this season
of the year is not obstructed by snow, though the round is very distant
and would require at least a month in it's preformance. The Shoshones
informed us when we first met with them that there was a passage across
the Mountains in that quarter but represented the difficuelties
arriseing from Steep ruggid high mountains, and also an extensive and
barren plain which was to be passed without game, as infinitely more
difficuelt than the rout by which we Came. from the Circumstance of the
Chopunnish being at war with that part of the Shoshones who inhabit the
Country on this side of the Mountains through which the road passes, I
think it is highly probable they cannot be well informed with respect
to the road, and further, had there been a better road in that quarter
the Shoshones on the East fork of Lewis's river who knew them boath
would not have recommend'd that by which we came to this country. The
travelling in the Mountains on the Snow, at present is very good, the
Snow bears the horses perfectly; it is a firm coase Snow without a
crust, and the horses have good foot hold without slipping much; the
only dificuelty is finding the road, and I think the plan we have
devised will Suckceed even Should we not be enabled to obtain a guide.
altho the Snow may be Stated on an average at 10 feet deep, yet arround
the body of the trees it has disolved much more than in other parts,
not being generally more than one or two feet deep imediately at the
roots of the trees, and of course the marks made by the rubbing of the
Indian baggage against them is not Concealed. The reason why the Snow
is comparitively So Shallow about the roots of the trees, 1 prosume
proceeds as well from the Snow in falling being thrown off from their
bodies by the thick and Spreading branches, as from the reflection of
the Sun against the trees and the warmth which they in Some measure
acquire from the earth which is never frozen underneath those masses of
Snow. 4 of our horses are absent.
[Lewis, June 21, 1806]
Saturday June 21st 1806.
We collected our horses early set out on our return to the flatts. we
all felt some mortification in being thus compelled to retrace our
steps through this tedious and difficult part of our rout, obstructed
with brush and innumerable logs of fallen timber which renders the
traveling distressing and even dangerous to our horses. one of
Thompson's horses is either choked this morning or has the distemper
very badly I fear he is to be of no further service to us. an excellent
horse of Cruzatte's snagged himself so badly in the groin in jumping
over a parsel of fallen timber that he will evidently be of no further
service to us. at the pass of Collin's Creek we met two indians who
were on their way over the mountain; they had brought with them the
three horses and the mule that had left us and returned to the quawmash
grounds. these indians returned with us about 1/2 a mile down the creek
where we halted to dine and graize our horses at the same place I had
halted and remained all night with the party on the ____ of Septembr
last. as well as we could understand the indians they informed us that
they had seen Drewyer and Shannon and that they would not return untill
the expiration of two days; the cause why Drewyer and Shannon had not
returned with these men we are at a loss to account for. we pressed
these indians to remain with us and to conduct us over the mountain on
the return of Drewyer and Shannon. they consented to remain two nights
for us and accordingly deposited their store of roots and bread in the
bushes at no great distance and after dinner returned with us, as far
as the little prarie about 2 miles distant from the creek, here they
halted with their horses and informed us they would remain untill we
overtook them or at least two nights. they had four supenumery horses
with them. we sent on four hunters a head to the quawmash flatts to
take an evenings hunt; they so far succeeded as to kill one deer. we
left Reubin and J. Feilds at the Creek where we dined together with
Sergt Gass in order to hunt about that place untill our return. at
seven in the evening we found ourselves once more at our old encampment
where we shall anxiously await the return of Drewyer and Shannon.
[Clark, June 21, 1806]
Saturday June 21st 1806
We collected our horses early and Set out on our return to the flatts.
we all felt Some mortification in being thus compelled to retrace our
Steps through this tedious and difficuelt part of our rout, obstructed
with brush and innumerable logs and fallen timber which renders the
traveling distressing and even dangerous to our horses. one of
Thompsons horses is either choked this morning or has the distemper
badly. I fear he is to be of no further Survice to us. an excellent
horse of Cruzatt's snagged himself So badly in the groin in jumping
over a parcel of fallen timber that he will eventually be of no further
Survice to us. at the pass of Collin's Creek we met two indians who
were on their way over the mountains, they had brought with them the
three horses and the Mule which had left us and returned to the
quawmash ground. those indians returned with us about 1/2 a mile down
the Creek where we halted to dine and graze our horses. as well as we
Could understand the indians they informed us they had Seen Geo Drewyer
& Shannon, and that they would not return untill the expiration of two
days. the cause why Drewyer & Shannon did not return with these men we
are at a loss to account for. we pressed those indians to remain with
us and conduct us over the Mountains on the return of Drewyer &
Shannon. they consented to remain two nights for us and accordingly
deposited their Stores of roots & Bread in the bushes at no great
distance and after Dinner returned with us, as far as the little prarie
about 2 Miles distance from the Creek, here they halted with their
horses and informed us they would remain untill we overtook them or at
least 2 nights. they had four Supernoumery horses with them. We Sent on
four hunters a head to the quawmash flatts to make an evening hunt;
they So far Suckceeded as to kill one deer. We left R. and Jo. Fields
at the Creek where we dined, and Sergt. Gass in order to hunt about
that place untill our return. at 7 in the evening we found ourselves
once more at our old encampment where we Shall anxiously await the
return of Drewyer & Shannon.
[Lewis, June 22, 1806]
Sunday June 22nd 1806.
this morning by light all hands who could hunt were sent out; the
result of this days perfomance was greater than we had even hoped for.
we killed eight deer and three bear. we dispatched Whitehouse to the
Kooskooske near our old encampment above Collins's Creek in order to
procure some Salmon which we have understood the natives are now taking
in considerable quantities near that place. we gave Whitehouse a few
beads which Capt. C. had unexpectedly found in one of his waistcoat
pockets to purchase the fish. nothing further worthy of notice occurred
in the course of this day. the last evening was cool but the day was
remarkably pleasent with a fine breize from the N. W. neither Drewyer
Shannon nor Whitehouse returned this evening.--Potts's legg is inflamed
and very painfull to him. we apply a poltice of the roots of Cows.-
[Clark, June 22, 1806]
Sunday June 22nd 1806
This morning by light all hands who Could hunt were Sent out, the
result of the days performance was greater than we had even hopes for.
we killed eight Deer and three Bear. we despatched whitehouse to the
Kooskooke near our old encampment above Collins Creek in order to
precure Some Salmon which we understood the nativs are now takeing in
considerable quantities near that place. we gave whitehouse a fiew
beeds which I unexpectedly found in one of my waistcoat pockets to
purchase the fish. nothing further occured in the Course of this day.
the last evening was Cool but the day was remarkably pleasant with a
fine breeze from the N. W. neither Shannon Drewyer nor whitehouse
returned this evening.--Potts legg is inflamed and very painfull to
him. we apply a poltice of the root of Cowes
[Lewis, June 23, 1806]
Monday June 23rd 1806.
Apprehensive from Drewyer's delay that he had met with some difficulty
in procuring a guide, and also that the two indians who had promised to
wait two nights for us would set out today, we thought it most
advisable to dispatch Frazier and Wiser to them this morning with a vew
if possible to detain them a day or two longer; and directed that in
the event of their not being able to detain the indians, that Sergt.
Gass, R & J. Feilds and Wiser should accompany the indians by whatever
rout they might take to travellers rest and blaize the trees well as
they proceeded and wait at that place untill our arrivall with the
party. the hunters as usual wer dispatched early this morning. the does
now having their fawns the hunters can bleat them up and in that manner
kill them with more facility and ease. the indians pursue the game so
much on horseback in this neighbourhood that it is very shye. our
hunters killed 4 deer and a bear today. at 4 P.M. Drewyer Shannon and
Whitehouse returned. Drewyer brought with him three indians who had
consented to accompany us to the falls of the Missouri for the
compensation of two guns. one of those men is the brother of the
cutnose and the other two are the same who presented Capt. Clark and
myself each with a horse on a former occasion at the Lodge of the
broken arm. these are all young men of good character and much
respected by their nation. we directed the horses to be brought near
camp this evening and secured in such manner that they may be readily
obtained in the morning being determined to make an early start if
possible.--Colter one of our hunters did not return this evening.
[Clark, June 23, 1806]
Monday June 23rd 1806
Apprehensive from Drewyer & Shannons delay that they had met with Some
dif icuelty in precureing a guide, and also that the two indians who
had promised to wait two nights for us would Set out today, we thought
it most adviseable to dispatch Wizer & Frazier to them this morning
with a view if possible to detain them a day or two longer; and
directed that in the event of their not being able to detain the
indians, that Sergt. Gass, Jo. & R. Field & Wiser Should accompany the
Indians by whatever rout they might take to travellers rest and blaize
the trees well as they proceeded, and wait at that place untill our
arival with the party. the hunters as usial were dispatched early this
morning. The does now haveing their young the hunters can blait them
up, and in that manner kill them with more facillity and ease. the
indians pursue the game So much on horse back in this neighbourhood
that it is very Shye. our hunters killed ____ deer today. at 4 P.M.
Shannon Drewyer & Whitehouse returned. Shannon & Drewyer brought with
them three indians who had consented to accompany us to the falls of
the Missouri for the Compensation of 2 guns. one of those men is the
brother of the Cutnose and the other two are the Same who presented
Capt L. and myself with a horse on a former occasion at the Lodge of
the broken arm, and the two who promised to pursue us in nine nights
after we left the river, or on the 19th inst. Those are all young men
of good Charrector and much respected by their nation. those men infor
us that thir nation as well as the Wallar-wallars have made peace with
the Shoshones agreeable to our late advice to them. they also inform us
that they have heard by means of the Skeetsomis Nation & Clarks river
that the Big bellies of Fort de Prarie Killed great numbers of the
Shoshons and Otte lee Shoots which we met with last fall on the East
fork of Lewis's river and high up the West fork of Clarks river &c.
We directed the horses to be brought near Camp and secured in Such a
manner that they may be readily obtained in the morning being
deturmined to make an early Start if possible-.--Colter one of our
hunters did not return this evening
[Lewis, June 24, 1806]
Tuesday June 24th 1806.
We collected our horses early this morning and set out accompanyed by
our three guides. Colter joined us this morning having killed a bear,
which from his discription of it's poverty and distance we did not
think proper to send after. we nooned it as usual at Collins's Creek
where we found Frazier, solus; the other four men having gone in
pursuit of the two indian men who had set out from Collins's Creek two
hours before Frazier and Wizer arrived. after dinner we continued our
rout to Fish Creek a branch of Collins's Creek where we had lain on the
19th & 20th inst. here we found Sergt. Gass Wiser and the two indians
whom they had prevailed on to remain at that place untill our arrival;
R. & J. Feilds had only killed one small deer only while they lay at
Collins's Creek and of this they had been liberal to the indians
insomuch that they had no provision; they had gone on to the branch of
hungary Creek at which we shall noon it tomorrow in order to hunt. we
had fine grass for our horses this evening.
[Clark, June 24, 1806]
Tuesday June 24th 1806
We collected our horses early this morning and Set out accompanied by
our 3 guides. Colter joined us this morning haveing killed a Bear,
which from his discription of it's poverty and distance we did not
think proper to send after. We nooned it as usial at Collins's Creek
where we found Frazier, solus; the other four men haveing Born in
pursute of the two indians who had Set out from Collin's Creek two
hours before Fraziers arrival Wiser arrived there. after dinner we
Continued our rout to fish Creek a branch of Collin's creek where we
had lain the 15th 18th 19th & 20th inst. here we found Sargt. Gass,
Wiser and the two indian men whome they had prevaild on to remain at
that place untill our arival; Jos. & R. Field had killed one Small deer
only while they lay at Collins creek, and of this they had been liberal
to the indians insomuch that they had no provisions; they had gone on
to the branch of hungary Creek at which we shall noon it tomorrow in
order to hunt. we had fine grass for our horses this evening.
[Lewis, June 25, 1806]
Wednesday June 25th 1806.
last evening the indians entertained us with seting the fir trees on
fire. they have a great number of dry lims near their bodies which when
set on fire creates a very suddon and immence blaze from bottom to top
of those tall trees. they are a beatifull object in this situation at
night. this exhibition reminded me of a display of fireworks. the
natives told us that their object in seting those trees on fire was to
bring fair weather for our journey.--We collected our horses readily
and set out at an early hour this morning. one of our guides complained
of being unwell, a symptom which I did not much like as such complaints
with an indian is generally the prelude to his abandoning any
enterprize with which he is not well pleased. we left them at our
encampment and they promised to pursue us in a few hours. at 11 A.M. we
arrived at the branch of hungary creek where we found R. & J. Feilds.
they had not killed anything. here we halted and dined and our guides
overtook us. at this place I met with a plant the root of which the
shoshones eat. it is a small knob root a good deel in flavor an
consistency like the Jerusalem Artichoke. it has two small oval smooth
leaves placed opposite on either side of the peduncle just above the
root. the scape is only about 4 inches long is round and smooth. the
roots of this plant formed one of those collections of roots which
Drewyer took from the Shoshones last summer on the head of Jefferson's
river. after dinner we continued our rout to hungary Creek and encamped
about one and a half miles below our encampment of the 16th inst.--the
indians continued with us and I beleive are disposed to be faithfull to
their engagement. I gave the sik indian a buffaloe robe he having no
other covering except his mockersons and a dressed Elkskin without the
hair. Drewyer and Sheilds were sent on this morning to hungry Creek in
surch of their horses which they fortunately recovered.
[Clark, June 25, 1806]
Wednesday June 25th 1806
last evening the indians entertained us with Setting the fir trees on
fire. they have a great number of dry limbs near their bodies which
when Set on fire create a very Sudden and eminence blaize from bottom
to top of those tail trees. they are a boutifull object in this
Situation at night. this exhibition remide me of a display of firewoks.
the nativs told us that their object in Setting those trees on fire was
to bring fair weather for our journey-. We Collected our horses and Set
out at an early hour this morning. one of our guides Complained of
being unwell, a Symptom which I did not much like as such complaints
with an indian is generally the prelude to his abandoning any
enterprize with which he is not well pleased. we left 4 of those
indians at our encampment they promised to pursue us in a fiew hours.
at 11 A.M. we arrived at the branch of hungary Creek where we found Jo.
& R. Fields. they had not killed anything. here we halted and dined and
our guides overtook us. at this place the squaw Collected a parcel of
roots of which the Shoshones Eat. it is a Small knob root a good deel
in flavour and Consistency like the Jerusolem artichoke. it has two
Small Smooth oval leaves placed opposit on either Side of the peduncle
just above the root. the scope is only about 4 inches long is round and
Smooth. the roots of this plant forms one of the Colection of roots
which D-. took from the Shoshones last fall on the head of Jefferson
river. after dinner we continued our rout to hungary creek and encamped
about one and a half miles below our Encampment of the 16th inst.--The
indians all continue with us and I beleive are disposed to be faithfull
to their engagements. Capt. L. gave the Sick indian a Small buffalow
robe which he brought from the Missouri, this indian having no other
Covering except his mockersons and a dressed Elk Skin without the
hair-. Drewyer & Shields were sent on this morning to hungary Creek in
serch of their horses which they fortunately recovered.---came ____
miles to daye.
[Lewis, June 26, 1806]
Thursday June 26th 1806.
This morning we collected our horses and set out after an early
breakfast or at 6 A.M. we passed by the same rout we had travelled on
the 17th inst. to our deposit on the top of the snowey mountain to the
N. E. of hungary Creek. here we necessarily halted about 2 hours to
arrange our baggage and prepare our loads. we cooked and made a haisty
meal of boiled venison and mush of cows. the snow has subsided near
four feet since the 17th inst. we now measured it accurately and found
from a mark which we had made on a tree when we were last here on the
17th that it was then 10 feet 10 inches which appeared to be about the
common debth though it is deeper still in some places. it is now
generally about 7 feet. on our way up this mountain about the border of
the snowey region we killed 2 of the small black pheasant and a female
of the large dommanicker or speckled pheasant, the former have 16
fathers in their tail and the latter 20 while the common pheasant have
only 18. the indians informed us that neither of these speceis drumed;
they appear to be very silent birds for I never heared either of them
make a noise in any situation. the indians haistened to be off and
informed us that it was a considerable distance to the place which they
wished to reach this evening where there was grass for our horses.
accordingly we set out with our guides who lead us over and along the
steep sides of tremendious mountains entirely covered with snow except
about the roots of the trees where the snow had sometimes melted and
exposed a few square feet of the earth. we ascended and decended
severall lofty and steep hights but keeping on the dividing ridge
between the Chopunnish and Kooskooske rivers we passed no stream of
water. late in the evening much to the satisfaction of ourselves and
the comfort of our horses we arrived at the desired spot and encamped
on the steep side of a mountain convenient to a good spring. having
passed a few miles our camp of 18 Sepr 1805 here we found an abundance
of fine grass for our horses. this situation was the side of an
untimbered mountain with a fair southern aspect where the snows from
appearance had been desolved about 10 days. the grass was young and
tender of course and had much the appearance of the greenswoard. there
is a great abundance of a speceis of bear-grass which grows on every
part of these mountains it's growth is luxouriant and continues green
all winter but the horses will not eat it. soon after we had encamped
we were overtaken by a Chopunnish man who had pursued us with a view to
accompany me to the falls of the Missouri. we were now informed that
the two young men whom we met on the 21st and detained several days are
going on a party of pleasure mearly to the Oote-lash-shoots or as they
call them Sha-lees a band of the Tush-she-pah nation who reside on
Clark's river in the neighbourhood of traveller's rest. one of our
guides lost 2 of his horses, which he returned in surch of; he found
them and rejoined us a little before dark.
[Clark, June 26, 1806]
Thursday June 26th 1806
We collected our horses and Set out early and proceeded on Down hungary
Creek a fiew miles and assended to the Summit of the mountain where we
deposited our baggage on the 17th inst. found every thing Safe and as
we had left them. the Snow which was 10 feet 10 inches deep on the top
of the mountain, had sunk to 7 feet tho perfectly hard and firm. we
made Some fire Cooked dinner and dined, while our horses Stood on snow
7 feet deep at least. after dinner we packed up and proceeded on. about
the borders of the Snowey region we killed 2 Small black pheasents and
a female of the large dommanicker or Speckled pheasent, the former have
16 feathers in the tail and the latter 20 while the common Pheasent
have 18. the indians informed us that neither of these Speces drumed;
they appear to be very Silent birds for I never heard any of them make
any noise. the Indians hastened us off and informed us that it was a
considerable distance to the place they wished to reach this evening
where there was grass for our horses. accordingly we Set out with our
guides who led us over and along the Steep Sides of tremendious
Mountains entirely covered with Snow except about the roots of the
trees where the Snow was partially melted and exposed a Small Spot of
earth. we assended and decended Several Steep lofty hights but keeping
on the dividing ridge of the Chopunnish & Kooskooske river we passed no
Stream of water. late in the evening much to the Satisfaction of
ourselves and the Comfort of the horses we arived at the desired Spot
and Encamped on the Steep Side of a Mountain Convenient to a good
Spring. here we found an abundance of fine grass for our horses. this
Situation was the Side of an untimbered mountain with a fair Southern
aspect where the Snow from appearance had been disolved about 10 days,
the grass was young and tender of course and had much the appearance of
the Green Swoard. there is a great abundance of Species of bear grass
which grows on every part of those Mountains, its growth is luxurient
and continues green all winter but the horses will not eate it. Soon
after we had encamped we were over taken by a Chopunnish man who had
pursued us with a view to accompany Capt Lewis to the falls of
Missouri. we were now informed that the two young men we met on the
21st and detained Several days were going on a party of pleasure mearly
to the Oat-lash-shoots or as they call them Sha-lees a band of the
Tush-she-pah Nation who reside on Clarks river in the neighbourhood of
the Mouth of Travelers rest. one of our Guides lost 2 of his horses, he
returned in Serch of them he found them & rejoined us at Dark. all of
the Indians with us have two & 3 horses each. I was taken yesterday
with a violent pain in my head which has tormented me ever Since, most
violently
[Lewis, June 27, 1806]
Friday June 27th 1806.
We collected our horses early and set out. the road still continued on
the heights of the same dividing ridge on which we had traveled
yesterday for nine miles or to our encampment of the 18th of September
last. about one mile short of this encampment on an elivated point we
halted by the request of the Indians a few minutes and smoked the pipe.
on this eminence the natives have raised a conic mound of stones of 6
or eight feet high and on it's summit erected a pine pole of 15 feet
long from hence they informed us that when passing over with their
familes some of the men were usually sent on foot by the fishery at the
entrance of Colt Creek in order to take fish and again met the main
party at the Quawmash glade on the head of the Kooskooske river. from
this place we had an extensive view of these stupendous mountains
principally covered with snow like that on which we stood; we were
entirely surrounded by those mountains from which to one unacquainted
with them it would have seemed impossible ever to have escaped; in
short without the assistance of our guides I doubt much whether we who
had once passed them could find our way to Travellers rest in their
present situation for the marked trees on which we had placed
considerable reliance are much fewer and more difficult to find than we
had apprehended. these fellows are most admireable pilots; we find the
road wherever the snow has disappeared though it be only for a few
hundred paces. after smoking the pipe and contemplating this seene
sufficient to have damp the sperits of any except such hardy travellers
as we have become, we continued our march and at the distance of 3 ms.
decended a steep mountain and passed two small branches of the
Chopunnish river just above their forks and again ascended the ridge on
which we passed several miles and at a distance of 7 ms. arrived at our
encampment of September near which we passed 3 small branches of the
Chopunnish river and again ascended to the dividing ridge on which we
continued nine miles when the ridge became lower and we arrived at a
situation very similar to our encampment of the last evening tho the
ridge was somewhat higher and the snow had not been so long desolved of
course there was but little grass. here we encamped for the night
having traveled 28 miles over these mountains without releiving the
horses from their packs or their having any food. the indians inform us
that there is an abundance of the mountain sheep or what they call
white buffaloe. we saw three black-tailed or mule deer this evening but
were unable to get a shoot at them. we also saw several tracks of those
animals in the snow. the indians inform that there is great abundance
of Elk in the vally about the Fishery on the Kooskooske River. our meat
being exhausted we issued a pint of bears oil to a mess which with
their boiled roots made an agreeable dish. Potts's legg which has been
much swolen and inflamed for several days is much better this evening
and gives him but little pain. we applyed the pounded roots and leaves
of the wild ginger & from which he found great relief.--neare our
encampment we saw a great number of the yellow lilly with reflected
petals in blume; this plant was just as forward here at this time as it
was in the plains on the 10th of may.
[Clark, June 27, 1806]
Friday June 27th 1806
We collected our horses early and Set out. the road Still Continue on
the hights of the Dividing ridge on which we had traveled yesterday for
9 Ms. or to our encampment of the 16th Septr. last. about 1 m. Short of
the encampment we halted by the request of the Guides a fiew minits on
an ellevated point and Smoked a pipe on this eminance the nativs have
raised a conic mound of Stons of 6 or 8 feet high and erected a pine
pole of 15 feet long. from hence they informed us that when passing
over with their families some of the men were usually Sent on foot by
the fishery at the enterance of Colt Creek in order to take fish and
again meet the party at the quawmash glade on the head of Kooskoske
river. from this place we had an extencive view of these Stupendeous
Mountains principally Covered with Snow like that on which we Stood; we
were entirely Serounded by those mountains from which to one
unacquainted with them it would have Seemed impossible ever to have
escaped, in short without the assistance of our guides, I doubt much
whether we who had once passed them could find our way to Travellers
rest in their present Situation for the marked trees on which we had
placed Considerable reliance are much fewer and more difficuelt to find
than we had apprehended. those indians are most admireable pilots; we
find the road wherever the Snow has disappeared tho it be only for a
fiew paces. after haveing Smoked the pipe and Contemplating this Scene
Sufficient to have dampened the Spirits of any except Such hardy
travellers as we have become, we continued our march and at the dist.
Of 3 m. decended a Steep mountain and passed two Small branches of the
Chopunnish river just above their fok, and again assend the ridge on
which we passed. at the distance of 7 m. arived at our Encampment of
16th Septr. last passed 3 Small branches passed on a dividing ridge
rugid and we arived at a Situation very Similar to our Situation of
last night tho the ridge was Somewhat higher and the Snow had not been
So long disolved of course there was but little grass. here we Encamped
for the night haveing traveled 28 Ms. over these mountains without
releiveing the horses from their packs or their haveing any food. the
Indians inform us that there is an abundance of the Mountain Sheep, or
what they Call white Buffalow on those Mountains. we Saw 3 black tail
or mule deer this evening but were unable to get a Shoot at them. we
also Saw Several tracks of those animals in the snow. our Meat being
exhosted we issued a point of Bears Oil to a mess which with their
boiled roots made an agreeable dish. Jo. Potts leg which had been much
Swelled and inflaimed for several days is much better this evening and
givs him but little pain. we applied the poundd root & leaves of wild
ginger from which he found great relief. Near our encampment we saw
great numbers of the Yellow lilly with reflected petals in blume; this
plant was just as foward here at this time as it was in the plains on
the 10th of May. My head has not pained me so much to day as yesterday
and last night.
[Lewis, June 28, 1806]
Saturday June 28th 1806.
This morning we collected our horses and set out as usual after an
early breakfast. several of our horses had straggled to a considersble
distance in surch of food but we were fortunate enough to find them in
good time they look extreemly gant this morning, however the indians
informed us that at noon we would arrive at a place where there was
good food for them. we continued our rout along the dividing ridge
passing one very deep hollow and at the distance of six miles passed
our encampment of the 16 of September last, one and a half miles
further we passed the road which leads by the fishery falling in on the
wright immediately on the dividing ridge about eleven O'clock we
arrived at an untimbered side of a mountain with a Southern aspect just
above the fishery here we found an abundance of grass for our horses as
the Indians had informed us. as our horses were very hungary and much
fatiegued and from information no other place where we could obtain
grass for them within the reach of this evening's travel we determined
to remain at this place all night having come 13 miles only. the water
was distant from our encampment we therefore melted snow and used the
water principally. the whole of the rout of this day was over deep
snows. we find the traveling on the snow not worse than without it, as
the easy passage it gives us over rocks and fallen timber fully
compensate for the inconvenience of sliping, certain it is that we
travel considerably faster on the snow than without it. the snow sinks
from 2 to 3 inches with a hors, is coarse and firm and seems to be
formed of the larger and more dense particles of the snow; the surface
of the snow is reather harder in the morning than after the sun shines
on it a few hours, but it is not in that situation so dense as to
prevent the horse from obtaining good foothold. we killed a small black
pheasant; this bird is generally found in the snowey region of the
mountains and feeds on the leaves of the pine and fir. there is a
speceis of small whortleburry common to the hights of the mountains,
and a speceis of grass with a broad succulent leaf which looks not
unlike a flag; of the latter the horses are very fond, but as yet it is
generally under the snow or mearly making it's appearance as it
confined to the upper parts of the highest mountains.
[Clark, June 28, 1806]
Saturday June 28th 1806
This morning we Colected our horses and Set out as usial after an early
brackfast. we continued our rout along the dividig ridge over knobs &
through deep hollows passed our encampmt of the 14 Sept. last near the
forks of the road leaving the one on which we had Came one leading to
the fishery to our right imediately on the dividing ridge. at 12 oClock
we arived at an untimberd side of a mountain with a southern aspect
just above the fishery here we found an abundance of grass for our
horses as the guids had informed us. as our horses were hungary and
much fatiegued and from information no other place where we could
obtain grass for them within the reach of this evening's travel we
deturmined to remain at this place all night haveing come 13 m. only.
the water was distant from our Encampment we therefore melted Snow and
used the water. the whole of the rout of this day was over deep Snow.
we find the travelling on the Snow not worse than without it, as easy
passage it givs us over rocks and fallen timber fully compensates for
the inconvenience of sliping, certain it is that we travel considerably
faster on the snow than without it. the Snow Sinks from 2 to 3 inches
with a horse, is course and firm and seems to be formed of the larger
particles the surface of the snow sees to be rather harder in the
morning than after the Sun Shines on it a fiew hours, but it is not in
that situation so dense as to prevent the horses from obtaining good
foothold. I killed a Small black pheasant; this bird is generally found
in the Snowey region of the mountains and feeds on the leaves of the
pine & fir. there is a Species of Small huckleberry common to the
hights of the mountains, and a Species of grass with a broad succulent
leaf which looks not unlike a flag; of the latter the horses are very
fond, but as yet it is generally under the Snow, or mearly makeing it's
appearance as it confined to the upper part of the highest mountains.
[Lewis, June 29, 1806]
Sunday June 29th 1806.
We collected our horses early this morning and set out, having
previously dispatched Drewyer and R. Fields to the warm springs to
hunt. we pursued the hights of the ridge on which we have been passing
for several days; it terminated at the distance of 5 ms. from our
encampment and we decended to, and passed the main branch of the
Kooskooske 11/2 ms. above the entrance of Quawmash creek wid falls in
on the N. E. side. when we decended from this ridge we bid adieu to the
snow. near the river we fund a deer which the hunters had killed and
left us. this was a fortunate supply as all our oil was now exhausted
and we were reduced to our roots alone without salt. the Kooskooske at
this place is about 30 yds. wide and runs with great volocity. the bed
as all the mountain streams is composed of smooth stones. beyond the
river we ascended a very steep acclivity of a mountain about 2 Miles
and arrived at it's summit where we found the old road which we had
pased as we went out, coming in on our wright. the road was now much
plainer and more beaten, which we were informed happened from the
circumstance of the Ootslashshoots visiting the fishery frequently from
the vally of Clark's river; tho there was no appearance of there having
been here this spring. at noon we arrived at the quawmas flatts on the
Creek of the same name and halted to graize our horses and dine having
traveled 12 miles. we passed our encampment of the 13th of September at
10 ms. where we halted there is a pretty little plain of about 50 acres
plentifully stocked with quawmash and from apperances this fromes one
of the principal stages or encampments of the indians who pass the
mountains on this road. we found after we had halted that one of our
packhorses with his load and one of my riding horses were left behind.
we dispatched J. Feilds and Colter in surch of the lost horses. after
dinner we continued our march seven miles further to the warm springs
where we arrived early in the evening and sent out several hunters, who
as well as R Fields and Drewyer returned unsuccessful; late in the
evening Colter and J. Fields joined us with the lost horses and brought
with them a deer which they had killed, this furnished us with supper.
these warm springs are situated at the base of a hill of no
considerable hight on the N side and near the bank of travellers rest
creek which at that place is about 10 yards wide. these springs issue
from the bottoms and through the interstices of a grey freestone rock,
the rock rises in iregular masy clifts in a circular range arround the
springs on their lower side. immediately above the springs on the creek
there is a handsome little quamas plain of about 10 acres. the
prinsipal spring is about the temperature of the warmest baths used at
the hot springs in Virginia. In this bath which had been prepared by
the Indians by stoping the run with stone and gravel, I bathed and
remained in 19 minutes, it was with dificulty I could remain thus long
and it caused a profuse sweat two other bold springs adjacent to this
are much warmer, their heat being so great as to make the hand of a
person smart extreemly when immerced. I think the temperature of these
springs about the same as the hotest of the hot springs in Virginia.
both the men and indians amused themselves with the use of a bath this
evening. I observed that the indians after remaining in the hot bath as
long as they could bear it ran and plunged themselves into the creek
the water of which is now as cold as ice can make it; after remaining
here a few minutes they returned again to the warm bath, repeating this
transision several times but always ending with the warm bath. I killed
a small black pheasant near the quamash grounds this evening which is
the first I have seen below the snowy region. I also saw some young
pheasants which were about the size of Chickens of 3 days old. saw the
track of two bearfoot indians who were supposed to be distressed
rufugees who had fled from the Minnetares.
[Clark, June 29, 1806]
Sunday June 29th 1806
We colected our horses and Set out haveing previously dispatched
Drewyer & R. Field to the Warm Springs to hunt. we prosued the hights
of the ridge on which we have been passing for several days; it
termonated at the distance of 5 M. from our encampment, and we decended
to & passed the main branch of Kooskooke 11/2 Ms. above the enterance
of Glade Creek which falls in on the N. E. Side. we bid adew to the
Snow. near the River we found a Deer which the hunters had killed and
left us. this was a fortunate Supply as all our bears oil was now
exhosted, and we were reduced to our roots alone without Salt. the
river is 30 yds wide and runs with great velossity. the bead as all the
Mountain streams is composed of Smooth Stone. beyond this river we
assended a Steep Mountain about 2 Miles to it's Sumit where we found
the old road which we had passed on as we went out. comeing in on our
right, the road was now much plainer and much beaten. at noon we arived
at the quawmash flatts on Vally Creek and halted to graize our horses
and dined haveing traveled 12 Miles here is a pretty little plain of
about 50 acres plentifully Stocked with quawmash and from appearance
this forms one of the principal Stages of the indians who pass the
mountains on this road. we found that one of our pack horss with his
load and one of Capt. L.s. horses were missing we dispatched Jo. Field
& Colter in serch of the lost horse's. after dinner we continued our
march 7 ms further to the worm Springs where we arrived early in the
evening, and Sent out Several hunters, who as well as R. Field &
Drewyer returned unsuksessfull; late in the evening Jo. Field & Colter
joined us with the lost horses and brought with them a Deer which J. F.
had killed, this furnished us with a Supper.
Those Worm or Hot Springs are Situated at the base of a a hill of no
considerable hight, on the N. Side and near the bank of travellers rest
Creek which is at that place about 10 yds wide. these Springs issue
from the bottom and through the interstices of a grey freestone rock,
the rock rises in irregular masy clifts in a circular range, arround
the Springs on their lower Side. imediately above the Springs on the
Creek there is a handsom little quawmash plain of about 10 acres. the
principal Spring is about the temperature of the Warmest baths used at
the Hot Springs in Virginia. in this bath which had been prepared by
the Indians by stopping the river with Stone and mud, I bathed and
remained in 10 minits it was with dificuelty I could remain this long
and it causd a profuse swet. two other bold Springs adjacent to this
are much warmer, their heat being so great as to make the hand of a
person Smart extreemly when immerced. we think the temperature of those
Springs about the Same as that of the hotest of the hot Springs of
Virginia. both the Men and the indians amused themselves with the use
of the bath this evening. I observe after the indians remaining in the
hot bath as long as they could bear it run and plunge themselves into
the Creek the water of which is now as Cold as ice Can make it; after
remaining here a fiew minits they return again to the worm bath
repeeting this transision Several times but always ending with the worm
bath. Saw the tracks of 2 bearfooted indians-.
[Lewis, June 30, 1806]
Monday June 30th 1806.
We dispatched Drewyer and J. Fields early this morning to hunt on the
road and indeavour to obtain some meat for us. just as we had prepared
to set out at an early hour a deer came in to lick at these springs and
one of our hunters killed it; this secured us our dinners, and we
proceeded down the creek sometimes in the bottoms and at other times on
the top or along the steep sides of the ridge to the N. of the Creek.
at one mile from the springs we passed a stout branch of the creek on
the north side and at noon having travelled 13 ms. we arrived at the
entrance of a second Northen branch of the creek where we had nooned it
on the 12 th of Septr. last. here we halted, dined and graized our
horses. while here Sheilds took a small tern and killed a deer. at this
place a road turns off to the wright which the indians informed us
leads to Clarks river some distance below where there is a fine
extensive vally in which the Shalees or Ootslashshoots sometimes
reside. in descending the creek this morning on the steep side of a
high hill my horse sliped with both his hinder feet out of the road and
fell, I also fell off backwards and slid near 40 feet down the hill
before I could stop myself such was the steepness of the declivity; the
horse was near falling on me in the first instance but fortunately
recovers and we both escaped unhirt. I saw a small grey squirrel today
much like those of the Pacific coast only that the belly of this was
white. I also met with the plant in blume which is sometimes called the
lady's slipper or mockerson flower. it is in shape and appearance like
ours only that the corolla is white, marked with small veigns of pale
red longitudinally on the inner side. after dinner we resumed our
march. soon after seting out Sheilds killed another deer and in the
course of the evening we picked up three others which Drewyer had
killed along the road making a total of 6 today. Deer are very abundant
in the neighbourhood of travellers rest of both speceis, also some
bighorns and Elk. a little before sunset we arrived at our old
encampment on the south side of the creek a little above it's entrance
into Clark's river. here we encamped with a view to remain two days in
order to rest ourselves and horses & make our final arrangements for
seperation. we came 19 ms. after dinner the road being much better than
it has been since we entered the mountains we found no appearance of
the Ootslashshoots having been here lately. the indians express much
concern for them and apprehend that the Minnetares of fort de Prarie
have distroyed them in the course of the last winter and spring, and
mention the tracks of the bearfoot Indians which we saw yesterday as an
evidence of their being much distressed.--our horses have stood the
journey supprisingly well, most of them are yet in fine order, and only
want a few days rest to restore them perfectly.-
[Clark, June 30, 1806]
Monday June 30th 1806
We dispatched Drewyer & Jo. Field early this morning ahead to hunt.
just as we had prepard. to set out at an early hour, a deer Came in to
lick at the Springs and one of our hunters killed it; this Secired to
us our dinner. and we proceeded down the Creek, Sometimes in the
bottoms and at other times on the tops or along the Steep Sides of the
ridge to the N of the Creek. at 11/2 m. we passd our encampment of the
12th of Septr. last. we noon'd it at the place we had on the 12 of
Septr. last whiles here Shields killed a deer on the N. fork near the
road. here a rode leads up the N. fork and passed over to an extensive
vally on Clarks river at Some distance down that river as our guids
inform us. after dinner we resumed our march. Soon after Setting out
Shields killed another deer, and we picked up 3 others which G Drewyer
had killed along the road. Deer are very abundant in the neighbourhood
of travellers rest of boath Specis, also Some big horn and Elk. a
little before Sunset we arrived at our old encampment on the S. Side of
the Creek a little above its enterance into Clarks river. here we
Encamped with a view to remain 2 days in order to rest ourselves and
horses and make our final arrangements for Seperation. we found no
signs of the Oatlashshots haveing been here lately. the Indians express
much Concern for them and apprehend that the Menetarries of Fort d Prar
have destroyed them in the course of the last Winter and Spring, and
mention the tracts of the bearfooted indians which we Saw yesterday as
an evidence of their being much distressed-. our horses have stood the
journey Supirisinly well and only want a fiew days rest to restore them.
[Clark, June 30, 1806]
Descended the mountain to Travellers rest leaveing those tremendious
mountanes behind us-in passing of which we have experiensed Cold and
hunger of which I shall ever remember. in passing over this part of the
Rocky mountains from Clarks river, to the quawmash flats from the 14th
to the 19th of Septr. 1805 we marched through Snow, which fell on us on
the night of the 14th and nearly all the day of the 15 in addition to
the cold rendered the air cool and the way difficuelt. our food was
horses of which we eate three.--On our return we Set out from the
quawmash flats on the 15th of June and commenes the assent of the rocky
mountains; the air became cool and vigitation backward--on the 16th we
met with banks of Snow and in the hollars and maney of the hill Sides
the Snow was from 3 to 4 feet deep and Scercely any grass vegitation
just commencing where the Snow had melted--on the 17th at meridian, the
Snow became So deep in every derection from 6 to 8 feet deep we could
not prosue the road there being no grass for our horses we were obliged
to return to the quawmash flatts to precure meat to live on as well as
grass for our horses--leaveing our baggage on the mountains We precured
5 Indians as pilots and on the 24th of June 1806 we again under took
those Snowey regn. on the 26th we with our baggage arived at an open
plain serounded with Snow where there was grass for horses on the 27th
& 28th also passing over Snow 6 or 8 feet deep all the way on 29th
passed over but little Snow--but saw great masses of it lying in
different directions
[Lewis, July 1, 1806]
Tuesday July 1st 1806.
This morning early we sent out all our hunters. set Sheilds at work to
repair some of our guns which were out of order Capt. Clark & my self
consurted the following plan viz. from this place I determined to go
with a small party by the most direct rout to the falls of the
Missouri, there to leave Thompson McNeal and goodrich to prepare
carriages and geer for the purpose of transporting the canoes and
baggage over the portage, and myself and six volunteers to ascend
Maria's river with a view to explore the country and ascertain whether
any branch of that river lies as far north as Latd. 50 and again return
and join the party who are to decend the Missouri, at the entrance of
Maria's river. I now called for the volunteers to accompany me on this
rout, many turned out, from whom I scelected Drewyer the two Feildses,
Werner, Frazier and Sergt Gass accompanied me the other part of the men
are to proceed with Capt Clark to the head of Jefferson's river where
we deposited sundry articles and left our canoes. from hence Sergt
Ordway with a party of 9 men are to decend the river with the canoes;
Capt C. with the remaining ten including Charbono and York will proceed
to the Yellowstone river at it's nearest approach to the three forks of
the missouri, here he will build a canoe and decend the Yellowstone
river with Charbono the indian woman, his servant York and five others
to the missouri where should he arrive first he will wait my arrival.
Sergt Pryor with two other men are to proceed with the horses by land
to the Mandans and thence to the British posts on the Assinniboin with
a letter to Mr. Heney whom we wish to engage to prevail on the Sioux
Chefs to join us on the Missouri, and accompany them with us to the
seat of the general government. these arrangements being made the party
were informed of our design and prepared themselves accordingly. our
hunters killed 13 deer in the course of this day of which 7 were fine
bucks, deer are large and in fine order. the indians inform us that
there are a great number of white buffaloe or mountain sheep of the
snowey hights of the mountains West of this river; they state that they
inhabit the most rocky and inaccessible parts, and run but badly, that
they kill them with great ease with their arrows when they can find
them. the indian warrior who overtook us on the 26th Ult. made me a
present of an excellent horse which he said he gave for the good
council we had given himself and nation and also to assure us of his
attatchment to the white men and his desire to be at peace with the
Minnetares of Fort de Prarie. we had our venison fleeced and exposed in
the sun on pole to dry. the dove the black woodpecker, the lark
woodpecker, the logcock, the prarie lark, sandhill crain, prarie hen
with the short and pointed tail, the robin, a speceis of brown plover,
a few curloos, small black birds, ravens hawks and a variety of
sparrows as well as the bee martin and the several speceis of Corvus
genus are found in this vally.
Windsor birst his gun near the muzzle a few days since; this Sheilds
cut off and I then exchanged it with the Cheif for the one we had given
him for conducting us over the mountains. he was much pleased with the
exchange and shot his gun several times; he shoots very well for an
inexperienced person.
The little animal found in the plains of the Missouri which I have
called the barking squirrel weighs from 3 to 31/2 pounds. it's form is
that of the squirrel. it's colour is an uniform light brick red grey,
the red reather predominating. the under side of the neck and bely are
lighter coloured than the other parts of the body. the legs are short,
and it is wide across the breast and sholders in propotion to it's
size, appears strongly formed in that part; the head is also bony
muscular and stout, reather more blontly terminated wider and flatter
than the common squirrel. the upper lip is split or divided to the
nose. the ears are short and lie close to the head, having the
appearance of being cut off, in this particular they resemble the
guinea pig. the teeth are like those of the squrrel rat &c. they have a
false jaw or pocket between the skin and the mustle of the jaw like
that of the common ground squrrel but not so large in proportion to
their size. they have large and full whiskers on each side of the nose,
a few long hairs of the same kind on each jaw and over the eyes. the
eye is small and black. they have five toes on each foot of which the
two outer toes on each foot are much shoter than those in the center
particularly the two inner toes of the fore feet, the toes of the fore
feet are remarkably long and sharp and seem well adapted to cratching
or burrowing those of the hind feet are neither as long or sharp as the
former; the nails are black. the hair of this animal is about as long
and equally as course as that of the common grey squrrel of our
country, and the hair of the tail is not longer than that of the body
except immediately at the extremity where it is somewhat longer and
frequently of a dark brown colour. the part of generation in the female
is placed on the lower region of the belly between the hinder legs so
far forward that she must lie on her back to copolate. the whole length
of this animal is one foot five inches from the extremity of the nose
to that of the tail of which the tail occupyes 4 inches. it is nearly
double the size of the whistleing squirrel of the Columbia. it is much
more quick active and fleet than it's form would indicate. these
squirrels burrow in the ground in the open plains usually at a
considerable distance from the water yet are never seen at any distance
from their burrows. six or eight usually reside in one burrow to which
there is never more than one entrance. these burrows are of great
debth. I once dug and pursued a burrow to the debth of ten feet and did
not reach it's greatest debth. they generally associate in large
societies placing their burrows near each other and frequently occupy
in this manner several hundred acres of land. when at rest above ground
their position is generally erect on their hinder feet and rump; thus
they will generally set and bark at you as you approach them, their
note being much that of the little toy dogs, their yelps are in quick
succession and at each they a motion to their tails upwards. they feed
on the grass and weeds within the limits of their village which they
never appear to exceed on any occasion. as they are usually numerous
they keep the grass and weeds within their district very closely
graized and as clean as if it had been swept. the earth which they
throw out of their burrows is usually formed into a conic mound around
the entrance. this little animal is frequently very fat and it's flesh
is not unpleasant. as soon as the hard frosts commence it shuts up it's
burrow and continues within untill spring. it will eat grain or meat.
[Clark, July 1, 1806]
Tuesday July 1st 1806 on Clark's river
We Sent out all the hunters very early this morning by 12 OClock they
all returned haveing killd. 12 Deer Six of them large fat Bucks, this
is like once more returning to the land of liveing a plenty of meat and
that very good. as Capt. Lewis and Myself part at this place we make a
division of our party and such baggage and provisions as is Souteable.
the party who will accompany Capt L. is G. Drewyer, Sergt. Gass, Jo. &
R. Fields, Frazier & Werner, and Thompson Goodrich & McNear as far as
the Falls of Missouri at which place the 3 latter will remain untill I
Send down the Canoes from the head of Jeffersons river. they will then
join that party and after passing the portage around the falls, proceed
on down to the enterance of Maria where Capt. Lewis will join them
after haveing assended that river as high up as Laid. 50° North. from the
head of Jeffersons river I shall proceed on to the head of the
Rockejhone with a party of 9 or 10 men and desend that river. from the
R Rockejhone I Shall dispatch Sergt. Pryor with the horses to the
Mandans and from thence to the Tradeing Establishments of the N. W. Co
on the Assinniboin River with a letter which we have written for the
purpose to engage Mr. H. Haney to endeaver to get Some of the principal
Chiefs of the Scioux to accompany us to the Seat of our government &.
we divide the Loading and apportion the horses. Capt L. only takes 17
horses with him, 8 only of which he intends to take up the Maria &c.
One of the Indians who accompaned us Swam Clarks river and examined the
Country around, on his return he informed us that he had discovered
where a Band of the Tushepaws had encamped this Spring passed of 64
Lodges, & that they had passed Down Clarks river and that it was
probable that they were near the quawmash flatts on a Easterly branch
of that river. those guides expressed a desire to return to their
nation and not accompany us further, we informed them that if they was
deturmined to return we would kill some meat for them, but wished that
they would accompy Capt. Lewis on the rout to the falls of Missouri
only 2 nights and show him the right road to cross the Mountains. this
they agreed to do. we gave a medal of the Small Size to the young man
Son to the late Great Chief of the Chopunnish Nation who had been
remarkably kind to us in every instance, to all the others we tied a
bunch of blue ribon about the hair, which pleased them very much. the
Indian man who overtook us in the Mountain, presented Capt. Lewis with
a horse and said that he opened his ears to what we had said, and hoped
that Cap Lewis would see the Crovanters of Fort De Prarie and make a
good peace that it was their desire to be at peace. Shew them the horse
as a token of their wishes &c.
[Lewis, July 2, 1806]
Wednesday July 2ed 1806.
We sent out the hunters early this morning, they returned not so
succesfull as yesterday having killed 2 deer only. Sheilds continued
repairing the gunns which he compleated by evening. all arrangements
being now compleat we determined to set out in the morning. in the
course of the day we had much conversation with the indians by signs,
our only mode of communicating our ideas. they informed us that they
wished to go in surch of the Ootslashshoots their friends and intended
leaving us tomorrow morning, I prevailed on them to go with me as far
as the East branch of Clark's River and put me on the road to the
Missouri. I gave the Cheif a medal of the small size; he insisted on
exchanging names with me according to their custom which was
accordingly done and I was called Yo-me-kol-lick which interpreted is
the white bearskin foalded. in the evening the indians run their
horses, and we had several foot races betwen the natives and our party
with various success. these are a race of hardy strong athletic active
men. nothin worthy of notice transpired in the course of the day.
Goodrich and McNeal are both very unwell with the pox which they
contracted last winter with the Chinnook women this forms my inducement
principally for taking them to the falls of the Missouri where during
an intervail of rest they can use the murcury freely. I found two
speceis of native clover here, the one with a very narrow small leaf
and a pale red flower, the other nearly as luxouriant as our red clover
with a white flower the leaf and blume of the latter are proportionably
large. I found several other uncommon plants specemines of which I
preserved. The leaf of the cottonwood on this river is like that common
to the Columbia narrower than that common to the lower part of the
Missouri and Mississippi and wider than that on the upper part of the
Missouri. the wild rose, servise berry, white berryed honeysuckle,
seven bark, elder, alder aspin, choke cherry and the broad and narrow
leafed willow are natives of this valley. the long leafed pine forms
the principal timber of the neighbourhood, and grows as well in the
river bottoms as on the hills. the firs and larch are confined to the
higher parts of the hills and mountains. the tops of the high mountains
on either side of this river are covered with snow. the musquetoes have
been excessively troublesome to us since our arrival at this place.
[Clark, July 2, 1806]
Wednesday July 2nd 1806
Sent out 2 hunters this morning and they killed 2 Deer. the Musquetors
has been So troublesom day and night Since our arrival in this Vally
that we are tormented very much by them and Cant write except under our
Bears. We gave the Second gun to our guides agreeable to our promis,
and to each we gave Powder & ball I had the greater part of the meat
dried for to Subsist my party in the Mountains between the head of
Jeffersons & Clarks rivers where I do not expect to find any game to
kill. had all of our arms put in the most prime order two of the rifles
have unfortunately bursted near the muscle, Shields Cut them off and
they Shute tolerable well one which is very Short we exchanged with the
Indian whoe we had given a longer gun to induc them to pilot us across
the Mountains. we caused every man to fill his horn with powder & have
a sufficincy of Balls &c. the last day in passing down Travellers rest
Creek Capt Lewis fell down the Side of a Steep Mountain near 40 feet
but fortunately receved no dammage. his hors was near falling on him
but fortunately recovered and they both escaped unhurt. I killed a
Small grey squurel and a Common pheasant. Capt L. Showed me a plant in
blume which is Sometimes called the ladies Slipper or Mockerson flower.
it is in shape and appearance like ours only that the corolla is white
marked with Small veigns of pale red longitudinally on the inner Side,
and much Smaller. The Indians and Some of our men amused themselves in
running races on foot as well as with their horses.
[Lewis, July 3, 1806]
Thursday July 3rd 1806.
All arrangements being now compleated for carrying into effect the
several scheemes we had planed for execution on our return, we saddled
our horses and set out I took leave of my worthy friend and companion
Capt. Clark and the party that accompanyed him. I could not avoid
feeling much concern on this occasion although I hoped this seperation
was only momentary. I proceeded down Clark's river seven miles with my
party of nine men and five indians. here the Indians recommended our
passing the river which was rapid and 150 yds. wide. 2 miles above this
place I passed the entrance of the East branch of Clark's River which
discharges itself by two channels; the water of this river is more
terbid than the main stream and is from 90 to 120 yds. wide. as we had
no other means of passing the river we busied ourselves collecting dry
timber for the purpose of constructing rafts; timber being scarce we
found considerable difficulty in procuring as much as made three small
rafts. we arrived at 11 A.M. and had our rafts completed by 3 P.M. when
we dined and began to take over our baggage which we effected in the
course of 3 hours the rafts being obliged to return several times. the
Indians swam over their horses and drew over their baggage in little
basons of deer skins which they constructed in a very few minutes for
that purpose. we drove our horses in after them and they followed to
the opposite shore. I remained myself with two men who could scarcely
swim untill the last; by this time the raft by passing so frequently
had fallen a considerable distance down the river to a rapid and
difficult part of it crouded with several small Islands and willow bars
which were now overflown; with these men I set out on the raft and was
soon hurried down with the current a mile and a half before we made
shore, on our approach to the shore the raft sunk and I was drawn off
the raft by a bush and swam on shore the two men remained on the raft
and fortunately effected a landing at some little distance below. I wet
the chronometer by this accedent which I had placed in my fob as I
conceived for greater security. I now joined the party and we proceeded
with the indians about 3 Ms. to a small Creek and encamped at sunset. I
sent out the hunters who soon returned with three very fine deer of
which I gave the indians half These people now informed me that the
road which they shewed me at no great distance from our Camp would lead
us up the East branch of Clark's river and a river they called
Cokahlarishkit or the river of the road to buffaloe and thence to
medicine river and the falls of the Missouri where we wished to go.
they alledged that as the road was a well beaten track we could not now
miss our way and as they were affraid of meeting with their enimies the
Minnetares they could not think of continuing with us any longer, that
they wished now to proceed down Clark's river in surch of their friends
the Shalees. they informed us that not far from the dividing ridge
between the waters of this and the Missouri rivers the roads forked
they recommended the left hand as the best rout but said they would
both lead us to the falls of the Missouri. I directed the hunters to
turn out early in the morning and indeavour to kill some more meat for
these people whom I was unwilling to leave without giving them a good
supply of provision after their having been so obliging as to conduct
us through those tremendious mountains. the musquetoes were so
excessively troublesome this evening that we were obliged to kindle
large fires for our horses these insects tortured them in such manner
untill they placed themselves in the smoke of the fires that I realy
thought they would become frantic. about an hour after dark the air
become so coald that the musquetoes disappeared.
We saw the fresh track of a horse this evening in the road near our
camp which the indians supposed to be a Shale spye. we killed a prarie
hen with the short and pointed tail she had a number of young which
could just fly.
[Lewis, July 4, 1806]
July 4th 1806.
An Indian arrived alone from the West side of the mountains. he had
pursued and overtook us here. sent out the hunters early to kill some
meat to give the indians as they would not go with us further and I was
unwilling after they service they had rendered to send them away
without a good store of provision. they are going down Clark's River in
surch of the Shalees their friends, and from thence intend returning by
this rout home again, they fleesed their meat informed us that they
should dry it and leave it for their homeward journey.--Set out at 12.
had killed no deer.
[Lewis, July 4, 1806]
Friday July 4th 1806.
I arrose early this morning and sent out Drewyer and the Fieldses to
hunt. at 6. A.M. a man of the Pallote pellows arrived from the West
side of the Rocky mountains; he had pursued us a few days after our
departure and overtook us at this place; he proved to be the same young
man who had first attempted to pass the rocky mountains early in June
last when we lay on the Kooskooske and was obliged to relinquish the
enterprize in consequence of the debth and softness of the snow. I gave
a shirt a handkercheif and a small quantity of ammunition to the
indians. at half after eleven the hunters returned from the chase
unsuccessfull. I now ordered the horses saddled smoked a pipe with
these friendly people and at noon bid them adieu. they had cut the meat
which I gave them last evening thin and exposed it in the sun to dry
informing me that they should leave it in this neighbourhood untill
they returned as a store for their homeward journey. it is worthy of
remark that these people were about to return by the same pass by which
they had conducted us through the difficult part of the Rocky
Mountains, altho they were about to decend Clark's river several days
journey in surch of the Shale's their relations, a circumstance which
to my mind furnishes sufficient evidence that there is not so near or
so good a rout to the plains of Columbia by land along that river as
that which we came. the several war routs of the Minetarees which fall
into this vally of Clark's river concenter at traveller's rest beyond
which point they have never yet dared to venture in pursuit of the
nations beyond the mountains. all the nations also on the west side of
the mountain with whom we are acquainted inhabiting the waters of
Lewis's river & who visit the plains of the Missouri pass by this rout.
these affectionate people our guides betrayed every emmotion of
unfeigned regret at seperating from us; they said that they were
confidint that the Pahkees, (the appellation they give the Minnetares)
would cut us off. the first 5 miles of our rout was through a part of
the extensive plain in which we were encamped, we then entered the
mountains with the East fork of Clark's river through a narrow confined
pass on it's N. side continuing up that river five ms. further to the
entrance of the Cokahlahishkit R which falls in on the N. E. side, is
60 yds. wide deep and rapid. the banks bold not very high but never
overflow. the East fork below its junction with this stream is 100 yds.
wide and above it about 90. the water of boath are terbid but the East
branch much the most so; their beds are composed of sand and gravel;
the East fork possesses a large portion of the former. neither of those
streams are navigable in consequence of the rapids and shoals which
obstruct their currents. thus far a plain or untimbered country
bordered the river which near the junction of these streams spread into
a handsome level plain of no great extent; the hills were covered with
long leafed pine and fir. I now continued my rout up the N. side of the
Cokahlahishkit river through a timbered country for 8 miles and
encamped in a handsom bottom on the river where there was an abundance
of excelence grass for our horses. the evening was fine, air pleasent
and no musquetoes. a few miles before we encamped I killed a squirrel
of the speceis common to the Rocky Mountains and a ground squirrel of a
speceis which I had never before seen, I preserved the skins of both of
these animals.
[Lewis, July 5, 1806]
July 5th 1806. Set out at 6 A.M.--steered
N. 75 E. 61/2 M. passed a stout C. N Side at 21/2 M. another just above
saw an old indian encampment of 11 lodges of bark and leather on S.
side at 31/2 M. killed a deer.
N. 25 E. 12 m. passing a small creek at one m. on S side on which there
is a handsom and extensive Valley and plain for 10 or 12 ms. also
another creek 12 yd. wide at 1/2 a mile further on N. sides and another
8 yds. wide on N. side at 5 ms further one & 1/2 m. short of the
extremity of this course arrive at a high prarie on N. side from one to
three miles in width extending up the river. halted and dined in the
mouth of a little drane on the left of the plain where there was a
considerable quantity of quawmash. saw a gang of antelopes here of
which we killed one the does at this season herd with each other and
have their young. the bucks are alone there are many wild horses on
Clarkes river about the place we passed it we saw some of them at a
distance. there are said to be many of them about the head of the
yellowstone river.
East 6 m. to the entrance of Werner's Creek 35 yds. wide through a high
extensive prairie on N. side. hills low and timbered with the long
leafed pine, larch, and some fir. the road passes at some distance to
the left of the river and this couses is with the river.
N. 22 W. 4 miles to a high insulated knob just above the entrance of a
Creek 8 yards wide which discharges itself into Werners Creek.
N. 75 E. 21/2 M. to the river passing through an extensive and handsom
plain on Werner's Creek, crossing that creek at 1 m. and leaving a high
prarie hill to the right seperating the plain from the river. saw two
swan in this beautiful Creek.