One deer 2 Ducks & Brant killed

[Clark, November 4, 1805]

November 4th Monday 1805

A cloudy cool morning wind from the West we Set out at 1/2 past 8

oClock, one man Shannon Set out early to walk on the Island to kill

Something, he joined us at the lower point with a Buck. This Island is

6 miles long and near 3 miles wide thinly timbered (Tide rose last

night 18 inches perpndicular at Camp) near the lower point of this

dimond Island is The head of a large Island Seperated from a Small one

by a narrow chanel, and both Situated nearest the Lard Side, those

Islands as also the bottoms are thickly Covered with Pine &c. river

wide, Country low on both Sides; on the Main Lard Shore a Short

distance below the last Island we landed at a village of 25 Houses; 24

of those houses were thached with Straw, and covered with bark, the

other House is built of boards in the form of those above, except that

it is above ground and about 50 feet in length and covered with broad

Split boards This village contains about 200 men of the Skil-loot

nation I counted 52 canoes on the bank in front of this village maney

of them verry large and raised in bow. we recognised the man who over

took us last night, he invited us to a lodge in which he had Some part

and gave us a roundish roots about the Size of a Small Irish potato

which they roasted in the embers until they became Soft, This root they

call Wap-pa-to which the Bulb of the Chinese cultivate in great

quantities called the Sa-git ti folia or common arrow head-. it has an

agreeable taste and answers verry well in place of bread. we purchased

about 4 bushels of this root and divided it to our party, at 7 miles

below this village passed the upper point of a large Island nearest the

Lard Side, a Small Prarie in which there is a pond opposit on the

Stard. here I landed and walked on Shore, about 3 miles a fine open

Prarie for about 1 mile, back of which the countrey rises gradually and

wood land comencies Such as white oake, pine of different kinds, wild

crabs with the taste and flavour of the common crab and Several Species

of undergroth of which I am not acquainted, a few Cottonwood trees &

the Ash of this countrey grow Scattered on the river bank, Saw Some Elk

and Deer Sign and Joined Capt. Lewis at a place he had landed with the

party for Diner. Soon after Several Canoes of Indians from the village

above came down dressed for the purpose as I Supposed of Paying us a

friendly visit, they had Scarlet & blue blankets Salors jackets,

overalls, Shirts and Hats independant of their Usial dress; the most of

them had either war axes Spears or Bows Sprung with quivers of arrows,

Muskets or pistols, and tin flasks to hold their powder; Those fellows

we found assumeing and disagreeable, however we Smoked with them and

treated them with every attention & friendship.

dureing the time we were at dinner those fellows Stold my pipe Tomahawk

which They were Smoking with, I imediately Serched every man and the

canoes, but Could find nothing of my Tomahawk, while Serching for the

Tomahawk one of those Scoundals Stole a Cappoe of one of our

interpreters, which was found Stufed under the root of a treer, near

the place they Sat, we became much displeased with those fellows, which

they discovered and moved off on their return home to their village,

except 2 canoes which had passed on down--we proceeded on met a large &

a Small Canoe from below, with 12 men the large Canoe was ornimented

with Images carved in wood the figures of a Bear in front & a man in

Stern, Painted & fixed verry netely on the of the Canoe, rising to near

the hight of a man two Indians verry finely Dressed & with hats on was

in this canoe passed the lower point of the Island which is nine miles

in length haveing passed 2 Islands on the Stard Side of this large

Island, three Small Islands at its lower point. the Indians make Signs

that a village is Situated back of those Islands on the Lard. Side and

I believe that a Chanel is Still on the Lrd, Side as a Canoe passed in

between the Small Islands, and made Signs that way, probably to

traffick with Some of the nativs liveing on another Chanel, at 3 miles

lower, and 12 Leagues below quick Sand river passed a village of four

large houses on The Lard. Side, near which we had a full view of Mt.

Helien which is perhaps the highest pinical in America from their base

it bears N. 25° E about 90 miles--This is the mountain I Saw from the

Muscle Shell rapid on the 19th of October last Covered with Snow, it

rises Something in the form of a Sugar lofe--about a mile lower passed

a Single house on the Lard. Side, and one on the Stard. Side, passed a

village on each Side and Camped near a house on the Stard. Side we

proceeded on untill one hour after dark with a view to get clear of the

nativs who was constantly about us, and troublesom, finding that we

could not get Shut of those people for one night, we landed and

Encamped on the Stard. Side Soon after 2 canoes Came to us loaded with

Indians, we purchased a fiew roots of them.

This evening we Saw vines much resembling the raspberry which is verry

thick in the bottoms. A range of high hills at about 5 miles on the

Lard Side which runs S. E. & N W. Covered with tall timber the bottoms

below in this range of hills and the river is rich and leavel, Saw

White geese with a part of their wings black. The river here is 11/2

miles wide, and current jentle. opposit to our camp on a Small Sandy

Island the brant & geese make Such a noise that it will be impossible

for me to Sleap. we made 29 miles to day Killed a Deer and Several

brant and ducks. I Saw a Brarow tamed at the 1st village to day The

Indians which we have passd to day of the Scil-loot nation in their

language from those near & about the long narrows of the

Che-luc-it-te-quar or E-chee-lute, their dress differ but little,

except they have more of the articles precured from the white traders,

they all have flatened heads both men and women, live principally on

fish and Wap pa toe roots, they also kill Some fiew Elk and Deer,

dureing the Short time I remained in their village they brought in

three Deer which they had killed with their Bow & arrows. They are

thievishly inclined as we have experienced.

[Clark, November 5, 1805]

Novr. 5th Tuesday 1805

a Cloudy morning Som rain the after part of last night & this morning.

I could not Sleep for the noise kept by the Swans, Geese, white & black

brant, Ducks &c. on a opposit base, & Sand hill Crane, they were

emensely numerous and their noise horrid. We Set out at Sun rise & our

hunters killed 10 Brant 4 of which were white with black wings 2 Ducks,

and a Swan which were divided, we Came too and Encamped on the Lard.

Side under a high ridgey land, the high land come to the river on each

Side. the river about 11/2 mile wide. those high lands rise gradually

from the river & bottoms--we are all wet Cold and disagreeable, rain

Continues & encreases. I killed a Pheasent which is very fat--my feet

and legs cold. I saw 17 Snakes to day on a Island, but little

appearance of Frost at this place.

[Clark, November 5, 1805]

November 5th Tuesday 1805

Rained all the after part of last night, rain continues this morning, I

slept but verry little last night for the noise Kept dureing the whole

of the night by the Swans, Geese, white & Grey Brant Ducks &c. on a

Small Sand Island close under the Lard. Side; they were emensely

noumerous, and their noise horid--we Set out early here the river is

not more than 3/4 of a mile in width, passed a Small Prarie on the

Stard. Side passed 2 houses about 1/2 a mile from each other on the

Lard. Side a Canoe came from the upper house, with 3 men in it mearly

to view us, passed an Isld. Covered with tall trees & green briers

Seperated from the Stard. Shore by a narrow Chanel at 9 miles I

observed on the Chanel which passes on the Stard Side of this Island a

Short distance above its lower point is Situated a large village, the

front of which occupies nearly 1/4 of a mile fronting the Chanel, and

closely Connected, I counted 14 houses in front here the river widens

to about 11/2 miles. Seven canoes of Indians came out from this large

village to view and trade with us, they appeared orderly and well

disposed, they accompanied us a fiew miles and returned back. about

111/2 miles below this village on the Lard Side behind a rockey Sharp

point, we passed a Chanel 1/4 of a mile wide, which I take to be the

one the Indian Canoe entered yesterday from the lower point of Immage

Canoe Island a Some low clifts of rocks below this Chanel, a large

Island Close under the Stard Side opposit, and 2 Small Islands, below,

here we met 2 canoes from below,--below those Islands a range of high

hills form the Stard. Bank of the river, the Shore bold and rockey,

Covered with a thick groth of Pine an extensive low Island, Seperated

from the Lard side by a narrow Chanel, on this Island we Stoped to Dine

I walked out found it open & covered with grass interspersed with Small

ponds, in which was great numbr. of foul, the remains of an old village

on the lower part of this Island, I saw Several deer our hunters killed

on this Island a Swan, 4 white 6 Grey brant & 2 Ducks all of them were

divided, below the lower point of this Island a range of high hills)

which runs S. E. forms the Lard. bank of the river the Shores bold and

rockey & hills Covered with pine, The high hills leave the river on the

Stard. Side a high bottom between the hill & river. We met 4 Canoes of

Indians from below, in which there is 26 Indians, one of those Canoes

is large, and ornimented with Images on the bow & Stern. That in the

Bow the likeness of a Bear, and in Stern the picture of a man--we

landed on the Lard. Side & camped a little below the mouth of a creek

on the Stard. Side a little below the mouth of which is an Old Village

which is now abandaned-; here the river is about one and a half miles

wide, and deep, The high Hills which run in a N W. & S E. derection

form both banks of the river the Shore boald and rockey, the hills rise

gradually & are Covered with a thick groth of pine &c. The valley which

is from above the mouth of Quick Sand River to this place may be

computed at 60 miles wide on a Derect line, & extends a great Distanc

to the right & left rich thickly Covered with tall timber, with a fiew

Small Praries bordering on the river and on the Islands; Some fiew

Standing Ponds & Several Small Streams of running water on either Side

of the river; This is certainly a fertill and a handsom valley, at this

time Crouded with Indians. The day proved Cloudy with rain the greater

part of it, we are all wet cold and disagreeable--I Saw but little

appearance of frost in this valley which we call Wap-pa-loo Columbia

from that root or plants growing Spontaneously in this valley only In

my walk of to Day I saw 17 Striped Snakes I killed a grouse which was

verry fat, and larger than Common. This is the first night which we

have been entirely clear of Indians Since our arrival on the waters of

the Columbia River. We made 32 miles to day by estimation-

[Clark, November 6, 1805]

November 6th Wednesday a cold wet morning. rain Contd. untill ____

oClock we Set out early & proceeded on the Corse of last night &c.

[Clark, November 6, 1805]

November 6th Wednesday 1805

A cool wet raney morning we Set out early at 4 miles pass 2 Lodges of

Indians in a Small bottom on the Lard Side I believe those Indians to

be travelers. opposit is the head of a long narrow Island close under

the Starboard Side, back of this Island two Creeks fall in about 6

miles apart, and appear to head in the high hilley countrey to the N.

E. opposit this long Island is 2 others one Small and about the middle

of the river. the other larger and nearly opposit its lower point, and

opposit a high clift of Black rocks on the Lard. Side at 14 miles: here

the Indians of the 2 Lodges we passed to day came in their canoes with

Sundery articles to Sell, we purchased of them Wap-pa-too roots, Salmon

trout, and I purchased 2 beaver Skins for which I gave 5 Small fish

hooks. here the hills leave the river on the Lard. Side, a butifull

open and extensive bottom in which there is an old Village, one also on

the Stard. Side a little above both of which are abandened by all their

inhabitents except Two Small dogs nearly Starved, and an unreasonable

portion of flees--The Hills and mountains are covered with Sever kinds

of Pine-Arber Vitea or white Cedar, red Loril, alder and Several

Species of under groth, the bottoms have common rushes, nettles, &

grass the Slashey parts have Bull rushes & flags--Some willow on the

waters edge, passed an Island 3 miles long and one mile wide, close

under the Stard. Side below the long narrow Island below which the

Stard Hills are verry from the river bank and Continues high and rugid

on that Side all day, we over took two Canoes of Indians going down to

trade one of the Indians Spoke a fiew words of english and Said that

the principal man who traded with them was Mr. Haley, and that he had a

woman in his Canoe who Mr. Haley was fond of &c. he Showed us a Bow of

Iron and Several other things which he Said Mr. Haley gave him. we came

too to Dine on the long narrow Island found the woods So thick with

under groth that the hunters could not get any distance into the Isld.

the red wood, and Green bryors interwoven, and mixed with pine, alder,

a Specis of Beech, ash &c. we killed nothing to day The Indians leave

us in the evening, river about one mile wide hills high and Steep on

the Std. no place for Several Miles suffcently large and leavil for our

camp we at length Landed at a place which by moveing the Stones we made

a place Sufficently large for the party to lie leavil on the Smaller

Stones Clear of the Tide Cloudy with rain all day we are all wet and

disagreeable, had large fires made on the Stone and dried our bedding

and Kill the flees, which collected in our blankets at every old

village we encamped near I had like to have forgotten a verry

remarkable Knob riseing from the edge of the water to about 80 feet

high, and about 200 paces around at its Base and Situated on the long

narrow Island above and nearly opposit to the 2 Lodges we passed to

day, it is Some distance from the high land & in a low part of the

Island

[Clark, November 7, 1805]

November 7th Thursday 1805

a Cloudy fogey morning, a little rain. Set out at 8 oClock proceeded on

The womens peticoat is about 15 Inches long made of arber vita or the

white Cedar bark wove to a String and hanging down in tossles and tied

So as to cover from their hips as low as the peticoat will reach and

only Covers them when Standing, as in any other position the Tosels

Seperate. Those people Sold us otter Skins for fish hooks of which they

wer fond

We delayed 11/2 hour & Set out the tide being up in & the river So Cut

with Islands we got an Indian to pilot us into the main chanel one of

our Canoes Seperated from us this morning in the fog--great numbers of

water fowls of every descriptn. common to this river

[Clark, November 7, 1805]

November 7th Thursday 1805

A cloudy foggey morning Some rain. we Set out early proceeded under the

Stard Shore under a high rugid hills with Steep assent the Shore boalt

and rockey, the fog So thick we could not See across the river, two

Canos of Indians met and returned with us to their village which is

Situated on the Stard Side behind a cluster of Marshey Islands, on a

narrow chanl. of the river through which we passed to the Village of 4

Houses, they gave us to eate Some fish, and Sold us, fish, Wap pa to

roots three dogs and 2 otter Skins for which we gave fish hooks

principally of which they were verry fond.

Those people call themselves War-ci-a-cum and Speake a language

different from the nativs above with whome they trade for the Wapato

roots of which they make great use of as food. their houses differently

built, raised entirely above ground eaves about 5 feet from the ground

Supported and covered in the same way of those above, dotes about the

Same size but in the Side of the house in one Corner, one fire place

and that near the opposit end; around which they have their beads

raised about 4 feet from the fore which is of earth, under their beads

they Store away baskets of dried fish Berries & wappato, over the fire

they hang the flesh as they take them and which they do not make

immediate use. Their Canoes are of the Same form of those above. The

Dress of the men differ verry little from those above, The womin

altogether different, their robes are Smaller only Covering their

Sholders & falling down to near the hip--and Sometimes when it is Cold

a piec of fur curiously plated and connected So as to meet around the

body from the arms to the hips The garment which occupies the waist and

thence as low as the knee before and mid leg behind, cannot properly be

called a petticoat, in the common acception of the word; it is a Tissue

formed of white Cedar bark bruised or broken into Small Straps, which

are interwoven in their center by means of Several cords of the Same

materials which Serves as well for a girdle as to hold in place the

Straps of bark which forms the tissue, and which Strans, Confined in

the middle, hang with their ends pendulous from the waiste, the whole

being of Suffcent thickness when the female Stands erect to conceal

those parts useally covered from familiar view, but when she stoops or

places herself in any other attitudes this battery of Venus is not

altogether impervious to the penetrating eye of the amorite. This

tissue is Sometims formed of little Strings of the Silk grass twisted

and knoted at their ends &c. Those Indians are low and ill Shaped all

flat heads

after delaying at this village one hour and a half we Set out piloted

by an Indian dressed in a Salors dress, to the main Chanel of the

river, the tide being in we Should have found much dificuelty in

passing into the main Chanel from behind those islands, without a

pilot, a large marshey Island near the middle of the river near which

Several Canoes Came allong Side with Skins, roots fish &c. to Sell, and

had a temporey residence on this Island, here we See great numbers of

water fowls about those marshey Islands; here the high mountanious

Countrey approaches the river on the Lard Side, a high mountn. to the S

W. about 20 miles, the high mountans. Countrey Continue on the Stard

Side, about 14 miles below the last village and 18 miles of this day we

landed at a village of the Same nation. This village is at the foot of

the high hills on the Stard Side back OF 2 Small Islands it contains 7

indifferent houses built in the Same form of those above, here we

purchased a Dog Some fish, wappato roots and I purchased 2 beaver Skins

for the purpose of makeing me a roab, as the robe I have is rotten and

good for nothing. opposit to this Village the high mountaneous Countrey

leave the river on the Lard Side below which the river widens into a

kind of Bay & is Crouded with low Islands Subject to be Covered by the

tides--we proceeded on about 12 miles below the Village under a high

mountaneous Countrey on the Stard. Side. Shore boald and rockey and

Encamped under a high hill on the Stard. Side opposit to a rock

Situated half a mile from the Shore, about 50 feet high and 20 feet

Diamieter, we with dificuelty found a place Clear of the tide and

Sufficiently large to lie on and the only place we could get was on

round Stones on which we lay our mats rain Continud. moderately all day

& Two Indians accompanied us from the last village, they we detected in

Stealing a knife and returned, our Small Canoe which got Seperated in

the fog this morning joined us this evening from a large Island

Situated nearest the Lard Side below the high hills on that Side, the

river being too wide to See either the form Shape or Size of the

Islands on the Lard Side.

Great joy in camp we are in View of the Ocian, this great Pacific

Octean which we been So long anxious to See. and the roreing or noise

made by the waves brakeing on the rockey Shores (as I Suppose) may be

heard distictly

we made 34 miles to day as Computed

[Clark, November 8, 1805]

Novr. 8th Friday 1805 a cloudy morning Some rain and wind we Changed

our Clothes and Set out at 9 oClock proceeded on Close under the Stard.

Side

R. Fields Killed a goose & 2 Canvis back Ducks in this bay after Dinner

we took the advantage of the returning tide & proceeded on to the 2d

point, at which place we found the Swells too high to proceed we landed

and drew our canoes up So as to let the tide leave them. The three

Indians after Selling us 4 fish for which we gave Seven Small fishing

hooks, and a piece of red Cloth. Some fine rain at intervales all this

day. the Swells Continued high all the evening & we are Compelled to

form an Encampment on a Point Scercely room Sufficent for us all to lie

Clear of the tide water. hills high & with a Steep assent, river wide &

at this place too Salt to be used for Drink. we are all wet and

disagreeable, as we have been Continually for Severl. days past, we are

at a loss & cannot find out if any Settlement is near the mouth of this

river.

The Swells were So high and the Canoes roled in Such a manner as to

cause Several to be verry Sick. Reuben fields, Wiser McNeal & the Squar

wer of the number

[Clark, November 8, 1805]

November 8th Friday 1805

A Cloudy morning Some rain, we did not Set out untill 9 oClock, haveing

Changed our Clothing--proceeded on Close under the Stard. Side, the

hills high with Steep assent, Shore boald and rockey Several low

Islands in a Deep bend or Bay to the Lard Side, river about 5 or 7

miles wide. three Indians in a Canoe overtook us, with Salmon to Sell,

passed 2 old villages on the Stard. Side and at 3 miles entered a nitch

of about 6 miles wide and 5 miles deep with Several Creeks makeing into

the Stard Hills, this nitch we found verry Shallow water and Call it

the Shallow nitch we came too at the remains of an old village at the

bottom of this nitch and dined, here we Saw great numbers of fowl, Sent

out 2 men and they killed a Goose and two Canves back Ducks here we

found great numbers of Hees which we treated with the greatest caution

and distance; after Diner the Indians left us and we took the advantage

of a returning tide and proceeded on to the Second point on the Std.

here we found the Swells or waves So high that we thought it imprudent

to proceed; we landed unloaded and drew up our Canoes. Some rain all

day at intervales; we are all wet and disagreeable, as we have been for

Several days past, and our present Situation a verry disagreeable one

in as much; as we have not leavel land Sufficient for an encampment and

for our baggage to lie Cleare of the tide, the High hills jutting in So

Close and Steep that we cannot retreat back, and the water of the river

too Salt to be used, added to this the waves are increasing to Such a

hight that we cannot move from this place, in this Situation we are

compelled to form our Camp between the hite of the Ebb and flood tides,

and rase our baggage on logs--We are not certain as yet if the whites

people who trade with those people or from whome they precure ther

goods are Stationary at the mouth, or visit this quarter at Stated

times for the purpose of trafick &c. I believe the latter to be the

most probable conjucture--The Seas roled and tossed the Canoes in Such

a manner this evening that Several of our party were Sea Sick.

[Clark, November 9, 1805]

Novr. 9th Saturday 1805

The tide of last night obliged us to unload all the Canoes one of which

Sunk before She was unloaded by the high waves or Swells which

accompanied the returning tide, The others we unloaded, and 3 others

was filled with water Soon after by the Swells or high Sees which broke

against the Shore imediately where we lay, rained hard all the fore

part of the day, the tide which rose untill 2 oClock P M to day brought

with it Such emence Swells or waves, added to a hard wind from the

South which Loosened the Drift trees which is verry thick on the

Shores, and tossed them about in Such a manner, as to endanger our

Canoes very much, with every exertion and the Strictest attention by

the party was Scercely Suffient to defend our Canoes from being Crushed

to pieces between those emensely large trees maney of them 200 feet

long and 4 feet through. The tide of this day rose about ____ feet & 15

Inches higher than yesterday this is owing to the wind which Sets in

from the ocian, we are Compelled to move our Camp from the water, as

also the loading every man as wet all the last night and this day as

the rain Could make them which Contind. all day. at 4 oClock the wind

Shifted about to the S. W imediately from the ocian and blew a Storm

for about 2 hours, raised the tide verry high all wet & cold Labiech

killed 4 Ducks very fat & R. Fields Saw Elk Sign.

not withstanding the disagreeable time of the party for Several days

past they are all Chearfull and full of anxiety to See further into the

ocian. the water is too Salt to Drink, we use rain water. The Salt

water has acted on some of the party already as a Pergitive. rain

continus.

[Clark, November 9, 1805]

November 9th Saturday 1805

The tide of last night did not rise Sufficintly high to come into our

camp, but the Canoes which was exposed to the mercy of the waves &c.

which accompanied the returning tide, they all filled, and with great

attention we Saved them untill the tide left them dry--wind Hard from

the South and rained hard all the fore part of the day, at 2 oClock P M

the flood tide came in accompanied with emence waves and heavy winds,

floated the trees and Drift which was on the point on which we Camped

and tosed them about in Such a manner as to endanger the Canoes verry

much, with every exertion and the Strictest attention by every

individual of the party was Scercely Sufficient to Save our Canoes from

being crushed by those monsterous trees maney of them nearly 200 feet

long and from 4 to 7 feet through. our camp entirely under water

dureing the hight of the tide, every man as wet as water could make

them all the last night and to day all day as the rain Continued all

day, at 4 oClock P M the wind Shifted about to the S. W. and blew with

great violence imediately from the Ocian for about two hours,

notwithstanding the disagreeable Situation of our party all wet and

Cold (and one which they have experienced for Several days past) they

are chearfull and anxious to See further into the Ocian, The water of

the river being too Salt to use we are obliged to make use of rain

water--Some of the party not accustomed to Salt water has made too free

a use of it on them it acts as a pergitive.

at this dismal point we must Spend another night as the wind & waves

are too high to proceed.

[Clark, November 10, 1805]

November 10th Sunday 1805 rained verry hard the greater part of the

last night & Continus this morning, the wind has layed and the Swells

are fallen. we loaded our Canoes and proceeded on, passed a Deep Bay on

the Stard. Side I Call ____ The wind rose from the N W. and the Swells

became So high, we were Compelled to return about 2 miles to a place

where we Could unld. our Canoes, which was in a Small Bay on Driftwood,

on which we had also to make our fires to dry our Selves as well as we

could the Shore being either a Clift of Purpendicular rocks or Steep

assents to the hight of 4 or 500 feet, we continued on this drift wood

untill about 3 oClock when the evening appearing favourable we loaded &

Set out in hopes to turn the Point below and get into a better harber,

but finding the waves & Swells continue to rage with great fury below,

we got a Safe place for our Stores & a much beter one for the Canoes to

lie and formed a Campment on Drift logs in the Same little Bay under a

high hill at the enterence of a Small drean which we found verry convt.

on account of its water, as that of the river is Brackish--The logs on

which we lie is all on flote every high tide--The rain Continud all

day--we are all wet, also our beding and many other articles. we are

all employed untill late drying our bedding. nothing to eate but

Pounded fish

[Clark, November 10, 1805]

November 10th Sunday 1805

Rained verry hard the greater part of last night and continues this

morning. the wind has luled and the waves are not high; we loaded our

canoes and proceeded on passed Several Small and deep nitch on the

Stard. Side, we proceeded on about 10 miles Saw great numbers of Sea

Guls, the wind rose from the N. W. and the waves became So high that we

were compelled to return about 2 miles to a place we Could unload our

Canoes, which we did in a Small nitch at the mouth of a Small run on a

pile of drift logs where we Continued untill low water, when the river

appeared calm we loaded and Set out; but was obliged to return finding

the waves too high for our Canoes to ride, we again unloaded the

Canoes, and Stoed the loading on a rock above the tide water, and

formed a camp on the Drift Logs which appeared to be the only Situation

we could find to lie, the hills being either a perpendicular Clift, or

Steep assent, riseing to about 500 feet--our Canoes we Secured as well

as we could--we are all wet the rain haveing continued all day, our

beding and maney other articles, employ our Selves drying our blankets-

nothing to eate but dried fish pounded which we brought from the falls.

we made 10 miles today

[Clark, November 11, 1805]

November 11th Monday 1805

a hard rain all the last night we again get wet the rain continue at

intervals all day. Wind verry high from S W and blew a Storm all day

Sent out Jo. Fields & Collins to hunt. at 12 oClock at a time the wind

was verry high and waves tremendeous five Indians Came down in a Canoe

loaded with fish of Salmon Spes. Called Red Charr, we purchased of

those Indians 13 of these fish, for which we gave, fishing hooks & some

trifling things, we had Seen those Indians at a village behind Some

marshey Islands a few days ago. they are on their way to trade those

fish with white people which they make Signs live below round a point,

those people are badly Clad, one is dressd. in an old Salors Jacket &

Trouses, the others Elk Skin robes. we are truly unfortunate to be

Compelled to lie 4 days nearly in the Same place at a time that our day

are precious to us, The Wind Shifted to ____ the Indians left us and

Crossed the river which is about 5 miles wide through the highest Sees

I ever Saw a Small vestle ride, their Canoe is Small, maney times they

were out of Sight before the were 2 miles off Certain it is they are

the best canoe navigators I ever Saw The tide was 3 hours later to day

than yesterday and rose much higher, the trees we camped on was all on

flote for about 2 hours from 3 untill 5 oClock P M, the great

quantities of rain which has fallen losenes the Stones on the Side of

the hill & the Small ones fall on us, our Situation is truly a

disagreeable one our Canoes in one place at the mercy of the waves our

baggage in another and our Selves & party Scattered on drift trees of

emense Sizes, & are on what dry land they can find in the Crevices of

the rocks & hill Sides

[Clark, November 11, 1805]

November 11th Monday 1805

A hard rain all the last night, dureing the last tide the logs on which

we lay was all on float Sent out Jo Fields to hunt, he Soon returned

and informed us that the hills was So high & Steep, & thick with

undergroth and fallen Timber that he could not get out any distance;

about 12 oClock 5 Indians came down in a canoe, the wind verry high

from the S. W. with most tremendious waves brakeing with great violence

against the Shores, rain falling in torrents, we are all wet as usial

and our Situation is truly a disagreeable one; the great quantites of

rain which has loosened the Stones on the hill Sides, and the Small

Stones fall down upon us, our canoes at one place at the mercy of the

waves, our baggage in another and our Selves and party Scattered on

floating logs and Such dry Spots as can be found on the hill Sides, and

Crivices of the rocks. we purchased of the Indians 13 red chary which

we found to be an excellent fish we have Seen those Indians above and

are of a nation who reside above and on the opposit Side who call

themselves Call-har-ma they are badly clad & illy made, Small and Speak

a language much resembling the last nation, one of those men had on a

Salors Jacket and Pantiloons and made Signs that he got those Clothes

from the white people who lived below the point &c. those people left

us and Crossed the river (which is about 5 miles wide at this place)

through the highest waves I ever Saw a Small vestles ride. Those

Indians are Certainly the best Canoe navigaters I ever Saw. rained all

(lay

[Clark, November 12, 1805]

November 12th Tuesday 1805

a tremendious thunder Storm abt. 3 oClock this morning accompanied by

wind from the S W. and Hail, this Storm of hard Clap's thunder Lighting

and hail untill about 6 oClock at intervals it then became light for a

Short time when the heavens became darkined by a black Cloud from the

S, W, & a hard rain Suckceeded which lasted untill 12 oClock with a

hard wind which raised the Seas tremendiously high braking with great

force and fury against the rocks & trees on which we lie, as our

Situation became Seriously dangerous, we took the advantage of a low

tide & moved our Camp around a point a Short distance to a Small wet

bottom at the mouth of a Small Creek, which we had not observed when we

first Came to this Cove, from its being very thick and obscured by

drift trees & thick bushes, Send out men to hunt they found the woods

So thick with Pine & timber and under Broth that they could not get

through, Saw Some Elk tracks, I walked up this creek & killed 2 Salmon

trout, the men killd. 13 of the Salmon Species, The Pine of fur Specs,

or Spruc Pine grow here to an emense Size & hight maney of them 7 & 8

feet through and upwards of 200 feet high. It would be distressing to a

feeling person to See our Situation at this time all wet and cold with

our bedding &c. also wet, in a Cove Scercely large nough to Contain us,

our Baggage in a Small holler about 1/2 a mile from us, and Canoes at

the mercy of the waves & drift wood, we have Scured them as well as it

is possible by Sinking and wateing them down with Stones to prevent the

emence waves dashing them to pices against the rocks--one got loose

last night & was left on a rock by the tide Some distance below without

recving much damage. fortunately for us our Men are helthy. It was

clear at 12 for a Short time. I observed the Mountains on the opposit

Side was covered with Snowour party has been wet for 8 days and is

truly disagreeable, their robes & leather Clothes are rotten from being

Continually wet, and they are not in a Situation to get others, and we

are not in a Situation to restore them--I observe great numbers of Sea

guls, flying in every derection--Three men Gibson Bratten & Willard

attempted to decend in a Canoe built in the Indian fashion and abt. the

Size of the one the Indians visited us in yesterday, they Could not

proceed, as the waves tossed them about at will, they returned after

proceeding about 1 mile--we got our Selves tolerable Comfortable by

drying our Selves & bedding Cought 3 salmon this evining in a Small

branch above about 1 mile

[Clark, November 12, 1805]

November 12th Tuesday 1805

A Tremendious wind from the S. W. about 3 oClock this morning with

Lightineng and hard claps of Thunder, and Hail which Continued untill 6

oClock a.m. when it became light for a Short time, then the heavens

became Sudenly darkened by a black Cloud from the S. W. and rained with

great violence untill 12 oClock, the waves tremendious brakeing with

great fury against the rocks and trees on which we were encamped. our

Situation is dangerous. we took the advantage of a low tide and moved

our camp around a point to a Small wet bottom at the mouth of a Brook,

which we had not observed when we Came to this cove; from it being

verry thick and obscured by drift trees and thick bushes It would be

distressing to See our Situation, all wet and Colde our bedding also

wet, (and the robes of the party which Compose half the bedding is

rotten and we are not in a Situation to supply their places) in a wet

bottom Scercely large enough to contain us, our baggage half a mile

from us and Canoes at the mercy of the waves, altho Secured as well as

possible, Sunk with emence parcels of Stone to wate them down to

prevent their dashing to pieces against the rocks; one got loose last

night and was left on a rock a Short distance below, without rciving

more daminage than a Split in her bottom--Fortunately for us our men

are healthy. 3 men Gibson Bratten & Willard attempted to go aroud the

point below in our Indian Canoe, much Such a canoe as the Indians

visited us in yesterday, they proceeded to the point from which they

were oblige to return, the waves tossing them about at will I walked up

the branch and giged 3 Salmon trout. the party killed 13 Salmon to day

in a branch about 2 miles above. rain Continued

[Clark, November 13, 1805]

November 13th Wednesday 1805 Some intervales of fair weather last

night, rain and wind Continue this morning, as we are in a Cove & the

Mountains verry high & Pine Spruce verry high & thick Cannot deturmine

the procise course of the winds. I walked to the top of the first part

of the mountain with much fatigue as the distance was about 3 miles

thro intolerable thickets of Small Pine, arrow wood a groth much

resembling arrow wood with briers, growing to 10 & 15 feet high

interlocking with each other & Furn, aded to this difficulty the hill

was So Steep that I was obliged to drawing my Self up in many places by

the bowers, the Countrey Continues thick and hilley as far back a I

could See. Some Elk Sign, rained all day moderately. I am wet &c. &c.

The Hail which fell 2 night past is yet to be Seen on the mountain on

which I was to day. I Saw a Small red Berry which grows on a Stem of

about 6 or 8 Inches from the Ground, in bunches and in great quantity

on the Mountains, the taste insiped. I saw a number of verry large

Spruce Pine one of which I measured 14 feet around and verry tall. My

principal objects in assdg. this mountain was to view the river below,

the weather being So Cloudey & thick that I could not See any distance

down, discovered the wind high from the N. W. and waves high at a Short

distance below our Encampment, (Squar displeased with me for not sin &c

&c. Wap-lo a excellent root which is rosted and tastes like a potato I

Cut my hand despatched 3 men in a Indian canoe (which is calculated to

ride high Swells) down to examine if they can find the Bay at the mouth

& good barbers below for us to proceed in Safty. The fides at every Hud

come in with great Swells & Breake against the rocks & Drift trees with

great fury--the rain Continue all the evening nothing to eate but

Pounded fish which we have as a reserve See Store, and what Pore fish

we can kill up the branch on which we are encamped our canoe and the

three men did not return this evening--if we were to have cold weather

to accompany the rain which we have had for this 6 or 8 days passed we

must eneviatilbly Suffer verry much as Clothes are Scerce with us.

[Clark, November 13, 1805]

November 13th Wednesday 1805

Some intervales of fair weather last night, rain continue this morning.

I walked up the Brook & assended the first Spur of the mountain with

much fatigue, the distance about 3 miles, through an intolerable

thickets of Small pine, a groth much resembling arrow wood on the Stem

of which there is thorns; this groth about 12 or 15 feet high inter

lockd into each other and Scattered over the high fern & fallen timber,

added to this the hills were So Steep that I was compelled to draw my

Self up by the assistance of those bushes--The Timber on those hills

are of the pine Species large and tall maney of them more than 200 feet

high & from 8 to 10 feet through at the Stump those hills & as far back

as I could See, I Saw Some Elk Sign, on the Spur of the mountain tho

not fresh. I killed a Salmon trout on my return. The Hail which fell 2

nights past is yet to be Seen on the mountains; I Saw in my ramble to

day a red berry resembling Solomons Seal berry which the nativs call

Sol-me and use it to eate. my principal object in assending this

mountain was to view the countrey below, the rain continuing and

weather proved So Cloudy that I could not See any distance on my return

we dispatched 3 men Colter, Willard and Shannon in the Indian canoe to

get around the point if possible and examine the river, and the Bay

below for a god barber for our Canoes to lie in Safty &c. The tide at

every floot tide Came with great swells brakeing against the rocks &

Drift trees with great fury The rain Continue all day. nothing to eate

but pounded fish which we Keep as a reserve and use in Situations of

this kind.

[Clark, November 14, 1805]

Novr. 14th Thursday 1805

Rained last night without intermission and this morning the wind blew

hard from the ____ We Could not move, one Canoe was broken last night

against the rocks, by the waves dashing her against them in high tide

about 10 oClock 5 Indians Come up in a Canoe thro emence waves &

Swells, they landed and informed us they Saw the 3 men we Sent down

yesterday, at Some distance below Soon after those people Came Colter

one of the 3 men returned and informed us that he had proceeded with

his Canoe as far as they Could, for the waves and Could find no white

people, or Bay, he Saw a good Canoe barber & 2 Camps of Indians at no

great distance below and that those with us had taken his gig & knife

&c. which he forcably took from them & they left us, after our treating

them well. The rain Continue all day all wet as usial, killed only 2

fish to day for the whole Party, at 3 oClock Capt. Lewis Drewyer Jo. &

R. Fields & Frasure Set out down on the Shore to examine if any white

men were below within our reach, they took a empty Canoe & 5 men to Set

them around the Point on a Gravelley Beech which Colter informed was at

no great distance below. The Canoe returned at dusk half full of water,

from the waves which dashed over in passing the point Capt Lewis is

object is also to find a Small Bay as laid down by Vancouver just out

of the mouth of the Columbia River. rained as usial all the evening,

all wet and disagreeable Situated

[Clark, November 14, 1805]

November 14th Thursday 1805

rained all the last night without intermition, and this morning. wind

blows verry hard but our Situation is Such that we Cannot tell from

what point it comes--one of our Canoes is much broken by the waves

dashing it against the rocks--5 Indians Came up in a Canoe, thro the

waves, which is verry high and role with great fury--They made Signs to

us that they Saw the 3 men we Sent down yesterday. only 3 of those

Indians landed, the other 2 which was women played off in the waves,

which induced me to Suspect that they had taken Something from our men

below, at this time one of the men Colter returnd by land and informed

us that those Indians had taken his Gigg & basket, I called to the

Squars to land and give back the gigg, which they would not doe untill

a man run with a gun, as if he intended to Shute them when they landed,

and Colter got his gig & basket I then ordered those fellows off, and

they verry readily Cleared out they are of the War-ci-a-cum N. Colter

informed us that "it was but a Short distance from where we lay around

the point to a butifull Sand beech, which continud for a long ways,

that he had found a good harber in the mouth of a creek near 2 Indian

Lodgesthat he had proceeded in the Canoe as far as he could for the

waves, the other two men Willard & Shannon had proceeded on down"

Capt Lewis concluded to proceed on by land & find if possible the white

people the Indians Say is below and examine if a Bay is Situated near

the mouth of this river as laid down by Vancouver in which we expect,

if there is white traders to find them &c. at 3 oClock he Set out with

4 men Drewyer Jos. & Reu. Fields & R. Frasure, in one of our large

canoes and 5 men to Set them around the point on the Sand beech. this

canoe returned nearly filled with water at Dark which it receved by the

waves dashing into it on its return, haveing landed Capt. Lewis & his

party Safe on the Sand beech. The rain Continues all day all wet. The

rain &c. which has continued without a longer intermition than 2 hours

at a time for ten days past has distroyd. the robes and rotted nearly

one half of the fiew Clothes the party has, perticularley the leather

Clothes,--fortunately for us we have no very Cold weather as yet and if

we have Cold weather before we Can kill & Dress Skins for Clothing the

bulk of the party will Suffer verry much.

[Clark, November 15, 1805]

November 15th Friday 1805

Rained all the last night at intervales of Sometimes of 2 hours, This

morning it became Calm & fair, I prepared to Set out at which time the

wind sprung up from the S. E. and blew down the River & in a fiew

minits raised Such Swells and waves brakeing on the Rocks at the point

as to render it unsafe to proceed. I went to the point in an empty

canoe and found it would be dangerous to proceed even in an empty Canoe

The Sun Shown untill 1 oClock p.m.which gave an oppertunity for us to

dry Some of our bedding, & examine our baggage, the greater Part of

which I found wet Some of our Pounded fish Spoiled I had all the arms

put in order & amunition examined.

The rainey weather Continued without a longer intermition than 2 hours

at a time from the 5th in the morng. untill the 16th is eleven days

rain, and the most disagreeable time I have experienced Confined on a

tempiest Coast wet, where I can neither get out to hunt, return to a

better Situation, or proceed on: in this Situation have we been for Six

days past.--fortunately the wind lay about 3 oClock we loaded I in

great haste and Set out passed the blustering Point below which is a

Sand beech, with a Small marshey bottom for 3 miles on the Stard. Side,

on which is a large village of 36 houses deserted by the Inds. & in

full possession of the flees, a Small Creek fall in at this village,

which waters the Country for a few miles back; Shannon & 5 Indians met

me here, Shannon informed me he met Capt. Lewis Some distance below &

he took willard with him & Sent him to meet me, the Inds with him wer

rogues, they had the night before Stold both his and Willards guns from

under their heads, Capt. Lewis & party arrived at the Camp of those

Indians at So Timely a period that the Inds. were allarmed & delivered

up the guns &c. The tide meeting of me and the emence Swells from the

main Ocean (imedeately in front of us) raised to Such a hite that I

concluded to form a Camp on the highest Spot I could find in the

marshey bottom, and proceed no further by water as the Coaste becomes

verry dangerous for Crafts of the Size of our Canoes-and as the Ocian

is imedeately in front and gives us an extensive view of it from Cape

disapointment to Point addams, my Situation is in the upper part of

Haley Bay S. 86° W. ____ miles Course five to Cape Disapt. and S. 35° W.

Course ____ miles from point Addams

The River here at its mouth from Point addams to the enterance of Haley

Bay above is ____ Miles or thereabouts, a large Isd. the lower point of

which is immediately in the mouth above

4 Indians in a Canoe Came down with papto roots to Sell, for which they

asked, blankets or robes, both of which we could not Spare I informed

those Indians all of which understood Some English that if they Stole

our guns &c the men would Certainly Shute them, I treated them with

great distance, & the Sentinal which was over our Baggage allarmed them

verry much, they all Promised not to take any thing, and if any thing

was taken by the Squars & bad boys to return them &c. the waves became

very high Evening fare & pleasent, our men all Comfortable in the Camps

they have made of the boards they found at the Town above

[Clark, November 15, 1805]

November 15th Friday 1805

Rained all the last night, this morning it became Calm and fair, I

preposed Setting out, and ordered the Canoes Repared and loaded; before

we could load our canoes the wind Sudenly Sprung up from the S. E and

blew with Such violence, that we could not proceed in Safty with the

loading. I proceeded to the point in an empty Canoe, and found that the

waves dashed against the rocks with Such violence that I thought it

unsave to Set out with the loaded Canoes--The Sun Shown untill 1 oClock

P M which afford us time to Dry our bedding and examine the baggage

which I found nearly all wet, Some of our pounded fish Spoiled in the

wet; I examined the amunition and Caused all the arms to be put in

order.

About 3 oClock the wind luled, and the river became calm, I had the

canoes loaded in great haste and Set Out, from this dismal nitich where

we have been confined for 6 days passed, without the possibility of

proceeding on, returning to a better Situation, or get out to hunt,

Scerce of Provisions, and torents of rain poreing on us all the time-

proceeded on passed the blustering point below which I found a butifull

Sand beech thro which runs a Small below the mouth of this Stream is a

village of 36 houses uninhabited by anything except flees, here I met

G. Shannon and 5 Indians. Shannon informed me that he met Capn. Lewis

at an Indian Hut about 10 miles below who had Sent him back to meet me,

he also told me the Indians were thievish, as the night before they had

Stolen both his and Willards rifles from under their heads, that they

Set out on their return and had not proceeded far up the beech before

they met Capt Lewis, whose arival was at a timely moment and alarmed

the Indians So that they instantly produced the Guns--I told those

Indians who accompanied Shannon that they Should not Come near us, and

if any one of their nation Stold anything from us, I would have him

Shot, which they understoot verry well. as the tide was Comeing in and

the Seas became verry high imediately from the Ocian (imediately

faceing us) I landed and formed a camp on the highest Spot I could find

between the hight of the tides, and the Slashers in a Small bottom this

I could plainly See would be the extent of our journey by water, as the

waves were too high at any Stage for our Canoes to proceed any further

down. in full view of the Ocian from Point Adams to Cape Disapointment,

I could not See any Island in the mouth of this river as laid down by

Vancouver. The Bay which he laies down in the mouth is imediately below

me. This Bay we call Haleys bay from a favourate Trader with the

Indians which they Say comes into this Bay and trades with them Course

to Point adams is S. 35°W. about 8 miles To Cape Disapointment is S. 86°W.

about 14 miles 4 Indians of the War-ki a cum nation Came down with

pap-pa-too to Sell &c. The Indians who accompanied Shannon from the

village below Speake a Different language from those above, and reside

to the north of this place The Call themselves Chin nooks, I told those

people that they had attempted to Steal 2 guns &c. that if any one of

their nation stole any thing that the Sentinl. whome they Saw near our

baggage with his gun would most certainly Shute them, they all promised

not to tuch a thing, and if any of their womin or bad boys took any

thing to return it imediately and Chastise them for it. I treated those

people with great distance. our men all Comfortable in their Camps

which they have made of boards from the old Village above. we made 3

miles to day.

[Clark, November 16, 1805]

November 16th Satturday 1805

a fine morning cool the latter part of the night, I had all our

articles of every discription examined, and found much wet, had all put

out & dried, The 5 Indians Theves left me. I took a meridean altd. with

Sextt. 50° 36 15 the Shakeing emige below--I Sent out Several hunters

Some to kill fowl others to hunt deer or Elk. The Sea is fomeing and

looks truly dismal to day, from the wind which blew to day from the S.

W. an Indian Canoe passed down to day, loaded with roots &c. three

Indians Came up from below I gave them Smoke but allowed then no kind

of Priveleges what ever, they camped with the 4 which Came down

yesterday, near us, The evening provd. Cloudy & I could make no lunar

observations. one man Sick with a violent Cold, Caught by lying in his

wet Clothes, Several nights Course from Stormey point to Cape

Disapointment is ____ Miles, passd a Small Creek and an old village at

2 miles on the Stard Side a Small Creek at 1 mile we Encamped just

above a Point in a Deep bay to the Stard. Side into which falls 2 Small

rivers Std. Grat many Indians liveing on the Bay & those two rivers,

the the Countrey on the Stard. Side high broken & thickly timbered,

that on the Lard. at Some distance from Point Adms high and mountains

on a Pinecal of a which is Snow at this time--near the Point is Low

bottom land

our hunters and fowlers killd 2 Deer 1 Crane & 2 ducks, my Servt. York

killed 2 Geese & 8 white, black and Speckle Brants, The White Brant,

with part of their wings black is much the largest, the black brant is

verry Small, a little larger than a large Duck--the deer pore but large

[Clark, November 16, 1805]

November 16th Saturday 1805

Cool the latter part of the last night this morning Clear and butifull;

I had all our articles of every discription examined and put out to

Dry. The 5 Chin nooks left us I took a meridenal altitude with the

Sextn. 50° 36' 15 which gave for Lattitude 46° 19' 11 1/10" North. I Sent

out Several hunters and fowlers in pursute Elk, Deer, or fowls of any

kind. wind hard from the S W The Waves high & look dismal indeed

breaking with great fury on our beech an Indian canoe pass down to day

loaded with Wap-pa-toe roots; Several Indians came up to day from

below, I gave them Smoke but allowed them no kind of privilage whatever

in the camp, they with the 4 which came down yesterday encamped a Short

distance from us. The evening proved Cloudy and I could not take any

Luner observations--One man Sick with a violent cold, Caught by laying

in his wet leather Clothes for maney nights past.

The Countrey on the Stard Side above Haley Bay is high broken and

thickley timbered on the Lard Side from Point Adams the Contrey appears

low for 15 or 20 miles back to the mountains, a pinical of which now is

Covered with Snow or hail, as the opposit is too far distant to be

distinguished well, I Shall not attempt to describe any thing on that

Side at present. our hunters and fowlers killed 2 Deer 1 Crain & 2

Ducks, and my man York killed 2 geese and 8 Brant, 3 of them white with

a part of their wings black and much larger than the Grey brant which

is a Sise larger than a Duck.

[Clark, November 17, 1805]

November 17th Sunday 1805

a fair cool windey morning wind from the East. every tide which rises 8

feet 6 Inches at this place, comes in with high Swells which brake on

the Sand Shore with great fury.

I Sent out 6 men to kill deer & fowls this morning at half past 1

oClock Capt. Lewis and his Party returned haveing around passd. Point

Disapointment and Some distance on the main Ocian to the N W. Several

Indians followed him & Soon after a canoe with wapto roots, & Lickorish

boiled, which they gave as presents, in return for which we gave more

than the worth to Satisfy,them a bad practice to receive a present of

Indians, as they are never Satisfied in return. our hunters killed 3

Deer & th fowler 2 Ducks & q brant I Surveyed a little on the corse &

made Some observns. The Chief of the nation below us Came up to See us

the name of the nation is Chin-nook and is noumerous live principally

on fish roots a fiew Elk and fowls. they are well armed with good

Fusees. I directed all the men who wished to See more of the Ocean to

Get ready to Set out with me on tomorrow day light. the following men

expressed a wish to accompany me i'e Seri. Nat Pryor Serjt. J. Ordway,

Jo. Fields R. Fields, Jo. Shannon, Jo Colter, William Bratten, Peter

Wiser, Shabono & my Servant York. all others being well Contented with

what part of the Ocean & its curiosities which Could be Seen from the

vicinity of our Camp.

[Clark, November 17, 1805]

November 17th Sunday 1805

A fair cool morning wind from the East. The tide rises at this place 8

feet 6 inches and comes in with great waves brakeing on the Sand beech

on which we lay with great fury Six hunters out this morning in serch

of Deer & fowl.

At half past 1 oClock Capt Lewis returned haveing travesed Haleys Bay

to Cape Disapointment and the Sea Coast to the North for Some distance.

Several Chinnook Indians followed (,apt L--and a Canoe came up with

roots mats &c. to Sell. those Chinnooks made us a present of a rute

boiled much resembling the common liquorice in taste and Size; in

return for this root we gave more than double the value to Satisfy

their craveing dispostn. It is a bad practice to receive a present from

those Indians as they are never Satisfied for what they reive in return

if ten time the value of the articles they gave. This Chin nook Nation

is about 400 Souls inhabid the Countrey on the Small rivrs which run

into the bay below us and on the Ponds to the N W of us, live

principally on fish and roots, they are well armed with fusees and

Sometimes kill Elk Deer and fowl. our hunters killed to day 3 Deer, 4

brant and 2 Ducks, and inform me they Saw Some Elk Sign. I directed all

the men who wished to See more of the main Ocian to prepare themselves

to Set out with me early on tomorrow morning. The principal Chief of

the Chinnooks & his familey came up to See us this evening-

[Clark, November 18, 1805]

Novr. 18th Monday 1805

a little Cloudy this morning I set out at day light with 10 men & my

Sevent, Shabono, Sergt. Pryer odderway Jos. & R. Fields Shannon Colter,

wiser, Lebiech & york proceeded on Down the Shore from the 1st point

At a run & Island near the Shore here the Traders ancher & trade? we

passed at each point a Soft Clifts of yellow, brown & dark Soft Stones

here Capt Lewis myself & Severl. of the men marked our names day of the

month & by Land &c. &c. from this S. W. 3 miles to the Iner pt. of Cape

Disapointmt passed a point & 2 Small nitches (Reuben Fields killed a

Vulter) we found a Curious fiat fish Shaped like a turtle, with fins on

each side, and a tale notched like a fish, the Internals on one Sid and

tale & fins flat wise This fish Flownder has a white on one Side & lies

flat to the Ground--passed from last hitch across to the ocean 1/2 a

mile low land the Cape is a high Partly bald hill, founded on rock, I

assencled a high Seperate bald hill Covered with long corse grass &

Seperated from the hight of Country by a Slashey bottom 2 miles S. 60 W

of the Cape--thence to a 2d Grassey pt is N. 50° W. 2 miles, Those hills

are founded on rocks & the waves brake with great fury against them,

the Coast is Sholey for Several miles of this Cape & for Some distance

off to the N W a Sand bar in the mouth. Sholey Some distance out from

the mouth The Coast from the Cape N W is open for a Short distance back

then it becomes thick piney Countrey intersperced with ponds

Point addams is S 20° W about 20 miles the Course on that Side bears S 45

W. I cannot assertain the prosise Course of the Deep water in the mouth

of the river, the Channel is but narrow. I proceeded on up above the 2d

point and Encamped on the Shore above the high tide, evening Clear, for

a Short time. Supd. on Brant and pounded fish men all Chearfull,

express a Desire to winter near the falls this winter.

[Clark, November 18, 1805]

November 18h Monday 1805

A little cloudy this morning I Set out with to men and my man York to

the Ocian by land. i. e. Seijt. Ordway & Pryor, Jos. & Ru. Fields, Go.

Shannon, W. Brattin,_J. Colter, P. Wiser, W. Labieche & P. Shabono one

of our interpreters & York. I Set out at Day light and proceeded on a

Sandy beech from Cape Disapointment to a high point of a Mountn. which

we shall call Clarke's Point of View beares S. 20° W. about 40 miles,

point adams is verry low and is Situated within the direction between

those two high points of land, the water appears verry Shole from off

the mouth of the river for a great distance, and I cannot assertain the

direction of the deepest Chanel, the Indians point nearest the opposit

Side. the waves appear to brake with tremendious force in every

direction quite across a large Sand bar lies within the mouth nearest

to point Adams which is nearly covered at high tide. I suped on brant

this evening with a little pounded fish. Some rain in the after part of

the night. men appear much Satisfied with their trip beholding with

estonishment the high waves dashing against the rocks & this emence

ocian

[Clark, November 19, 1805]

November 19th Tuesday 1805

began to rain a little before day and Continued raining untill 11

oClock I proceeded on thro emencely bad thickets & hills crossing 2

points to a 3rd on which we built a fire and Cooked a Deer which Jos.

Field Killd. from this point I can See into a Deep bend in the coast to

the N. E. for 10 miles. after Brackfast I proceeded on N. 20 E. 5 miles

to Comcement a large Sand bar at a low part ponds a little off from the

Coast here the high rockey hills end and a low marshey Countrey

Suckceed. I proceeded up the Course N. 10° W. 4 miles & marked my name &

the Day of the Month on a pine tree, the waters which Wash this Sand

beach is tinged with a deep brown Colour for Some distance out. The

Course Contd. is N. 20° W. low Coast and Sand beech, Saw a Dead Sturgen

10 feet long on the Sand, & the back bone of a Whale, as I conceived

raind I then returned to the Cape & dined, Some curious Deer on this

Course darker large boded Shorte legs Pronged horns & the top of the

tale black under part white as usial passed a nitch in the rocks below

into which falls a Stream, after Dinner I Set out on my return S. E.

passed over a low ridge & thro a piney countrey 21 Vs miles to the Bay,

thence up the Bay to the mouth of the Chen-nook River Crossed in the

Canoe we had left there & Encamped on the upper Side The Hills in the

point of this bay are not high, & imedeately below this River the

present yellow Bluffs above the River and up for about 2 miles the land

is low Slashey and Contains much drift wood, the Countrey up this Creek

is low with Copse of high land or as I may Say elevated. The Buzzard

which Ruben Fields killed diameter of one feather is--11/4 & 1 Line

from the tip of one to the tip of the other wing is 9 feet 0 Inches,

from the point of the Bill to the tale is 3 feet 101/4 Ins. middle Toe

51/2 Inches, Toe nale 1 Inches wing feather 2 feet 1/2 In. Tale

feathers 141/4 In. Head is 61/4 Inch long including the beek

[Clark, November 19, 1805]

November 19th Tuesday 1805

a Cloudy rainey day proceeded up the Coast which runs from my camp 11/4

miles west of the iner extry of the Cape N. 20° W. 5 miles through a

rugged hilley countrey thickly off the Sea coast to the Comencment of

an extencive Sand beech which runs N. 10° W. to point Lewis about 20

miles distance. I proceeded up this coast 4 miles and marked my name on

a low pine. and returned 3 miles back (The Countrey opsd. this Sand

Coast is low and Slashey,) Crossed the point 2 miles to the bay and

encamped on Chinnook river--See another book for perticulars

[Clark, November 19, 1805]

Tuesday November the 19th 1805

I arose early this morning from under a wet blanket caused by a Shower

of rain which fell in the latter part of the last night and Sent two

men on a head with directions to proceed on near the Sea Coast and Kill

Something for brackfast and that I Should follow my Self in about half

an hour. after drying our blankets a little I Set out with a view to

proceed near the Coast the direction of which induced me to conclude

that at the distance of 8 or 10 miles, the Bay was at no great distance

across. I overtook the hunters at about 3 miles, they had killed a

Small Deer on which we brackfast it comened raining and Continud

moderately untill 11 oClock A M.

after takeing a Sumptious brackfast of venison which was rosted on

Stiks exposed to the fire, I proceeded on through ruged Country of high

hills and Steep hollers on a course from the Cape N 20° W. 5 miles on a

Direct line to the Commencement of a Sandy Coast which extended N. 10° W.

from the top of the hill above the Sand Shore to a Point of high land

distant near 20 miles. this point I have taken the Liberty of Calling

after my particular friend Lewis--at the commencement of this Sand

beech the high lands leave the Sea coast in a Direction to Chinnook

river, and does not touch the Sea Coast again below point Lewis

leaveing a low pondey countrey, maney places open with small ponds in

which there is great numbr. of fowl I am informed that the Chinnook

Nation inhabit this low countrey and live in large wood houses on a

river which passes through this bottom Parrilal to the Sea coast and

falls into the Bay

I proceeded on the Sandy Coast 4 miles, and marked my name on a Small

pine, the Day of the month & year, &c. and returned to the foot of the

hill, from which place I intended to Strike across to The Bay, I saw a

Sturgeon which had been thrown on Shore and left by the tide 10 feet in

length, and Several joints of the back bone of a whale which must have

foundered on this part of the Coast. after Dineing on the remains of

our Small Deer I proceeded through over a land S E with Some Ponds to

the bay distance about 2 miles, thence up to the mouth of Chinnook

river 2 miles, crossed this little river in the Canoe we left at its

mouth and Encamped on the upper Side in an open Sandy bottom--The hills

next to the bay Cape disapointment to a Short distance up the Chinnook

river is not verry high thickly Coverd. with different Species of pine

&c. maney of which are large, I observed in maney places pine of 3 or 4

feet through growing on the bodies of large trees which had fallen

down, and covered with moss and yet part Sound. The Deer of this Coast

differ materially from our Common deer in a much as they are much

darker deeper bodied Shorter ledged horns equally branched from the

beem the top of the tail black from the rute to the end Eyes larger and

do not lope but jump-.

[Clark, November 20, 1805]

Novr. 20 Wednesday 1805 Some rain last night despatchd. 3 men to hunt

Jo. Fields & Cotter to hunt Elk & Labich to kill some Brant for our

brackfast The Morning Cleared up fare and we proceeded on by the Same

rout we went out, at the River we found no Indians. made a raft & Ruben

Fields Crossed and took over a Small Canoe which lay at the Indian

Cabin--This Creek is at this time of high tide 300 yards wide & the

marshes for Some distance up the Creek Covered with water. not an

Indian to be Seen near the Creek. I proceeded on to Camp & on my way

was over taken by 3 Indians one gave us Sturgeon & Wapto roots to eate

I met Several parties on way all of them appeared to know me & was

distant, found all well at Camp, maney Indians about one of which had

on a robe made of 2 Sea Orter Skins. Capt Lewis offered him many things

for his Skins with others a blanket, a coat all of which he refused we

at length purchased it for a belt of Blue Beeds which the Squar had-

The tide being out we walked home on the beech

[Clark, November 20, 1805]

Wednesday November the 20th 1805

Some rain last night dispatched Labiech to kill Some fowl for our

brackfast he returned in about 2 hours with 8 large Ducks on which we

brackfast I proceeded on to the enterance of a Creek near a Cabin no

person being at this cabin and 2 Canoes laying on the opposit Shore

from us, I deturmined to have a raft made and Send a man over for a

canoe, a Small raft was Soon made, and Reuben Fields Crossed and

brought over a Canoe--This Creek which is the outlet of a number of

ponds, is at this time (high tide) 300 yds wide--I proceeded on up the

Beech and was overtaken by three Indians one of them gave me Some dried

Sturgeon and a fiew wappato roots, I employd Those Indians to take up

one of our Canoes which had been left by the first party that Came

down, for which Service I gave them each a fishing hook of a large

Size--on my way up I met Several parties of Chinnooks which I had not

before Seen they were on their return from our Camp. all those people

appeard to know my deturmonation of keeping every individual of their

nation at a proper distance, as they were guarded and resurved in my

presence &c. found maney of the Chin nooks with Capt. Lewis of whome

there was 2 Cheifs Com com mo ly & Chil-lar-la-wil to whome we gave

Medals and to one a flag. one of the Indians had on a roab made of 2

Sea Otter Skins the fur of them were more butifull than any fur I had

ever Seen both Capt. Lewis & my Self endeavored to purchase the roab

with different articles at length we precured it for a belt of blue

beeds which the Squar-wife of our interpreter Shabono wore around her

waste. in my absence the hunters had killed Several Deer and fowl of

different kinds

[Clark, November 21, 1805]

November 21st Thursday 1805

a Cloudy morning most of the Indians left us, The nation on the opposit

Side is Small & Called Clap-soil, Their great chief name Stil-la-sha

The nation liveing to the North is Called Chieltz. The chief is name

Malaugh not large nation and wore his beards as informed by the Inds.

In my absence the hunters Kild. 7 Deer, 4 brants & a Crane.

Great numbers of the dark brant passing Southerley, the white yet

Stationary, no gees & Swan to be Seen. The wind blew hard from the S.

E. which with the addition of the flood tide raised emence Swells &

waves which almost entered our Encampment morng. dark & Disagreeable, a

Supriseing Climent. We have not had One cold day Since we passed below

the last falls or great Shute & Some time before the Climent is

temperate, and the only change we have experienced is from fair weather

to rainey windey weather--I made a chief & gave a medel this man is

name Tow-wall and appears to have Some influence with the nation and

tells me he lives at the great Shute-we gave the Squar a Coate of Blue

Cloth for the belt of Blue Beeds we gave for the Sea otter Skins

purchased of an Indian. at 12 oClock it began to rain, and continued

moderately all day, Some wind from the S. E., waves too high for us to

proceed on our homeward bound journey. Lattitude of this place is 46° 19'

11 1/10" North Several Indians and Squars came this evening I beleave

for the purpose of gratifying the passions of our men, Those people

appear to View Sensuality as a necessary evile, and do not appear to

abhore this as Crime in the unmarried females. The young women Sport

openly with our men, and appear to receive the approbation of their

friends & relations for So doing maney of the women are handsom.

They are all low both men and women, I saw the name of J. Bowmon marked

or picked on a young Squars left arm. The women of this nation Pick

their legs in different figures as an orpiment. they were their hair

loose, Some trinkets in their ears, none in the nose as those above,

their Dress is as follows, i,e the men, were a roabe of either the

skins of ____ a Small fured animal, & which is most common, or the

Skins of the Sea orter, Loon, Swan, Beaver, Deer, Elk, or blankets

either red, blu, or white, which roabes cover the sholders arms & body,

all other parts are nakd.

The women were a Short peticoat of the iner bark of the white Ceder or

Arber Vita, which hang down loose in Strings nearly as low as the knee,

with a Short Robe which fall half way down the Thigh. no other part is

Covered. The orniments are beeds, Blue principally, large Brass wire

around their rists Som rings, and maney men have Salors Clothes, many

have good fusees & Ball & Powder--The women ware a String of Something

curious tied tight above the anckle, all have large Swelled legs &

thighs The men Small legs & thighs and Generally badly made--They live

on Elk Deer fowls, but principally fish and roots of 3 Kinds,

Lickorish, Wapto &c. The women have more privalages than is Common

amongst Indians--Pocks & Venerial is Common amongst them I Saw one man

& one woman who appeared to be all in Scabs, & Several men with the

venereal, their other Disorders and the remides for them I could not

lern we divided Some ribin between the men of our party to bestow on

their favourite Lasses, this plan to Save the knives & more valueable

articles.

Those people gave me Sturgion Salmon & wapto roots, & we bought roots,

Some mats &c. &c. for which we were obliged to give emence prices--we

also purchased a kind of Cranberry which the Indians Say the geather in

the low lands, off of Small either vines or bushes just abov the

ground--we also purchased hats made of Grass &c. of those Indians, Some

very handsom mats made of flags-Some fiew curious baskets made of a

Strong weed & willow or ____ Splits-, also a Sweet Soft black root,

about th Sise & Shape of a Carrot, this root they Value verry highly-

The Wapto root is Scerce, and highly valued by those people, this root

they roste in hot ashes like a potato and the outer Skin peals off, tho

this is a trouble they Seldom perform.

[Clark, November 21, 1805]

Thursday November 21st 1805

a cloudy morning most of the Chinnooks leave our Camp and return home,

great numbers of the dark brant passing to the South, the white Brant

have not yet commenced their flight. The wind blew hard from the S. E.

which with the addition of the flood tide raised verry high waves which

broke with great violence against the Shore throwing water into our

Camp--the fore part of this day Cloudy at 12 oClock it began to rain

and Continud all day moderately, Several Indians Visit us to day of

differant nations or Bands Some of the Chiltz Nation who reside on the

Sea Coast near Point Lewis, Several of the Clotsops who reside on the

opposit Side of the Columbia imediately opposit to us, and a Chief from

the Grand rapid to whome we gave a Medal.

An old woman & wife to a Cheif of the Chinnooks came and made a Camp

near ours She brought with her 6 young Squars I believe for the purpose

of gratifying the passions of the men of our party and receving for

those indulgiences Such Small as She (the old woman) thought proper to

accept of, Those people appear to view Sensuality as a Necessary evel,

and do not appear to abhor it as a Crime in the unmarried State--The

young females are fond of the attention of our men and appear to meet

the sincere approbation of their friends and connections, for thus

obtaining their favours; the womin of the Chinnook Nation have handsom

faces low and badly made with large legs & thighs which are generally

Swelled from a Stopage of the circulation in the feet (which are Small)

by maney Strands of Beeds or curious Strings which are drawn tight

around the leg above the anckle, their legs are also picked with

different figures, I Saw on the left arm of a Squar the following

letters,. Bowmon, all those are Considered by the natives of this

quarter as handsom deckerations, and a woman without those deckorations

is Considered as among the lower Class they ware their hair lose

hanging over their back and Sholders maney have blue beeds threaded &

hung from different parts of their ears and about ther neck and around

their wrists, their dress other wise is prosisely like that of the

Nation of Wa ci a cum as already discribed. a Short roab, and tissue or

kind of peticoat of the bark of Cedar which fall down in Strings as low

as the knee behind and not So low before maney of the men have blankets

of red blue or Spotted Cloth or the common three & 21/2 point blankets,

and Salors old Clothes which they appear to prise highly, they also

have robes of Sea Otter, Beaver, Elk, Deer, fox and Cat common to this

countrey, which I have never Seen in the U States. They also precure a

roabe from the nativs above, which is made of the Skins of a Small

animal about the Size of a Cat, which is light and dureable and highly

prized by those people--the greater numbers of the men of the Chinnooks

have Guns and powder and Ball--The Men are low homely and badly made,

Small Crooked legs large feet, and all of both Sects have flattened

heads--The food of this nation is principally fish & roots the fish

they precure from the river by the means of nets and gigs, and the

Salmon which run up the Small branches together with what they collect

drifted up on the Shores of the Sea coast near to where they live

The roots which they use are Several different kinds, the Wappato which

they precure from the nativs above, a black root which they call

Shaw-na tah que & the wild licquorish is the most Common, they also

kill a fiew Elk Deer & fowl--maney of the Chinnooks appear to have

venerious and pustelus disorders. one woman whome I saw at the beech

appeared all over in Scabs and ulsers &c.

we gave to the men each a pece of ribin We purchased Cramberies Mats

verry netely made of flags and rushes, Some roots, Salmon and I

purchased a hat made of Splits & Strong grass, which is made in the

fashion which was common in the U States two years ago also Small

baskets to hold Water made of Split and Straw, for those articles we

gave high prices-.

[Clark, November 22, 1805]

Novr. 22nd Friday 1805

Some little rain all the last night with wind, before day the wind

increased to a Storm from the S. S. E. and blew with violence throwing

the water of the river with emence waves out of its banks almost over

whelming us in water, O! how horriable is the day--This Storm Continued

all day with equal violence accompanied with rain, Several Indians

about us, nothing killed the waves & brakers flew over our Camp, one

Canoe Split by the Tossing of those waves--we are all Confined to our

Camp and wet. purchased some Wapto roots for which was given, brass

armbans & rings of which the Squars were fond. we find the Indians easy

ruled and kept in order by a Stricter indifference towards them

[Clark, November 22, 1805]

Friday November 22nd 1805

a moderate rain all the last night with wind, a little before Day light

the wind which was from the S S. E. blew with Such violence that we wer

almost overwhelmned with water blown from the river, this Storm did not

Sease at day but blew with nearly equal violence throughout the whole

day accompaned with rain. O! how horriable is the day waves brakeing

with great violence against the Shore throwing the Water into our Camp

&c. all wet and Confind to our Shelters, Several Indian men and women

Crouding about the mens Shelters to day, we purchased a fiew wappato

roots for which we gave armbans, & rings to the old Squar, those roots

are equal to the Irish potato, and is a tolerable Substitute for bread

The threat which I made to the men of this nation whome I first Saw,

and an indifference towards them, is I am fulley Convinced the Cause of

their Conducting themselves with great propriety towards ourselves &

Party.

[Clark, November 23, 1805]

November 23rd Saturday 1805

The Cloudy and Calm, a moderate rain the greater part of the last

night, Sent out men to hunt this morning and they Killed 3 Bucks,

rained at intervales all day. I marked my name the Day of the month &

year on a Beech trees & (By Land) Capt Lewis Branded his and the men

all marked their nams on trees about the Camp. one Indian Came up from

their village on some lakes near Haleys bay. In the Evening 7 Indians

of the Clatt Sopp nation, opposit Came over, they brought with them 2

Sea orter Skins, for which the asked Such high prices we were uneabled

to purchase, without reduceing our Small Stock of merchindize on which

we have to depend in part for a Subsistance on our return home, Kiled 4

brant & 3 Ducks to day

[Clark, November 23, 1805]

Saturday November 22rd 1805.

A calm Cloudy morning, a moderate rain the greater part of the last

night, Capt Lewis Branded a tree with his name Date &c. I marked my

name the Day & year on a Alder tree, the party all Cut the first

letters of their names on different trees in the bottom. our hunters

killed 3 Bucks, 4 Brant & 3 Ducks to day.

in the evening Seven indians of the Clot Sop Nation Came over in a

Canoe, they brought with them 2 Sea otter Skins for which they asked

blue beads &c. and Such high pricies that we were unable to purchase

them without reducing our Small Stock of merchendize, on which we

depended for Subcistance on our return up this river--mearly to try the

Indian who had one of those Skins, I offered him my Watch, handkerchief

a bunch of red beads and a dollar of the American Coin, all of which he

refused and demanded "ti-a, co-mo-shack" which is Chief beads and the

most common blue beads, but fiew of which we have at this time

This nation is the remains of a large nation destroyed by the Small pox

or Some other which those people were not acquainted with, they Speak

the Same language of the Chinnooks and resemble them in every respect

except that of Stealing, which we have not Cought them at as yet.

[Clark, November 24, 1805]

November 24th Sunday 1805

Several of the Chenn nook N. Came, one of them brought an Sea orter

Skin for which we gave Some blue Beeds--This day proved to be fair and

we dried our wet articles bedding &c. The hunters killed only 1 brant

no Deer or any thing else

The old chief of Chinn-nook nation and Several men & women Came to our

camp this evening & Smoked the pipe

Serjt J. Ordway

Cross & examine

S

Serjt. N. Pryor

do do

S

Sgt. P. Gass

do do

S

Jo. Shields

proceed to Sandy R

Go. Shannon

Examn. Cross

falls

T. P. Howard

do do

falls

P. Wiser

do do

S. R

J. Collins

do do

S. R

Jo Fields

do do

up

Al. Willard

do do

up

R Willard

do do

up

J. Potts

do do

falls

R. Frasure

do do

up

Wm. Bratten

do do

up

R. Fields

do do

falls

J. B. Thompson

do do

up

J. Colter

do do

up

H. Hall

do do

S. R.

Labeech

do do

S R

Peter Crusatte

do do

S R

J. B. Depage

do do

up

Shabono

---

-

S. Guterich

do do

falls

W. Werner

do do

up

Go. Gibson

do do

up

Jos. Whitehouse

do do

up

Geo Drewyer

Examn other side

falls

McNeal

do do

up

York

" "

lookout

falls Sandy River lookout up

6 10 12

Janey in favour of a place where there is plenty of Potas.

Cp L Proceed on to morrow & examine The other side if good hunting to

winter there, as Salt is an objt. if not to proceed on to Sandy it is

probable that a vestle will come in this winter, & that by proceeding

on at any distance would not inhance our journey in passing the Rockey

mountains, &c.

W C. In favour of proceding on without delay to the opposit Shore &

there examine, and find out both the disposition of the Indians, &

probibilaty of precureing Subsistance, and also enquire if the Tradeing

vestles will arrive before the time we Should depart in the Spring, and

if the Traders, Comonly arive in a Seasonable time, and we Can Subsist

without a depends. on our Stores of goods, to Continue as the Climent

would be more favourable on the Sea Coast for our naked men than higher

up the Countrey where the Climate must be more Severe--The advantage of

the arival of a vestle from whome we Can precure goods will be more

than an over ballance, for the bad liveing we Shall have in liveing on

Pore deer & Elk we may get in this neighbourhood. If we Cannot subsist

on the above terms to proceed on, and make Station Camps, to

neighbourhood of the Frendly village near the long narrows & delay

untill we Can proceed up the river. Salt water I view as an evil in as

much as it is not helthy--I am also of opinion that one two or three

weeks Exemination on the opposide if the propects are any wise

favourable, would not be too long