Names of this nation above the mouth of the Ki-moo-e-nim is So-Kulk
Perced noses The Names of the nation on the Kimoenim River is
Chopun-nish Piercd noses at the Prarie the name of a nation at the
Second forks of the Tape tele River, or Nocktock fork Chim-na-pum, Some
of which reside with the So kulkc above this-at and a few miles
distance,--4 men in a Canoe come up from below Stayed a fiew minits and
returned.
Took a meridian altitude 68° 57' 30" the Suns upper Limb. The Lattitudes
produced is 46° 15' 13 9/10" North, Capt Lewis took a vocabillary of the
So kulk or Pierced noses Language and Chim-nd-pum Language whic is in
Some words different but orriginally the Same people The Great Chief
Cuts-Sa.h nim gave me a Sketch of the rivers & Tribes above on the
great river & its waters on which he put great numbers of villages of
his nation & friends, as noted on the Sketch
The fish being very bad those which was offerd to us we had every
reason to believe was taken up on the Shore dead, we thought proper not
to purchase any, we purchased forty dogs for which we gave articles of
little value, Such as beeds, bell, & thimbles, of which they appeard
verry fond, at 4 OClock we Set out down the Great Columbia accompand by
our two old Chiefs, one young man wished to accompany us, but we had no
room for more, & he could be of no Service to us
The Great Chief Continued with us untill our departure.
we Encamped a little below & opsd. the lower point of the Island on the
Lard. Side no wood to be found we were obliged to make use Small drid
willows to Cook--our old Chief informed us that the great Chief of all
the nations about lived at the 9 Lodges above and wished us to land &c.
he Said he would go up and Call him over they went up and did not
return untill late at night, about 20 came down & built a fire above
and Stayed all night. The chief brought a basket of mashed berries.
[Clark, October 18, 1805]
October 18th Friday 1805
This morning Cool and fare wind from the S. E. Six of the large Prarie
cock killed this morning. Several canoes of Indians Came down and
joined those with us, we had a council with those in which we informed
of our friendly intentions towards them and all other of our red
children; of our wish to make a piece between all of our red Children
in this quarter &c. &c. this was conveyed by Signs thro our 2 Chiefs
who accompanied us, and was understood, we made a 2d Chief and gave
Strings of wompom to them all in remembrance of what we Said--four men
in a Canoe came up from a large encampment on an Island in the River
about 8 miles below, they delayed but a fiew minits and returned,
without Speaking a word to us.
The Great Chief and one of the Chim-na pum nation drew me a Sketch of
the Columbia above and the tribes of his nation, living on the bank,
and its waters, and the Tape tett river which falls in 18 miles above
on the westerly side See Sketch below for the number of villages and
nations &c. &c.
We thought it necessary to lay in a Store of Provisions for our voyage,
and the fish being out of Season, we purchased forty dogs for which we
gave articles of little value, Such as bells, thimbles, knitting pins,
brass wire & a few beeds all of which they appeared well Satisfied and
pleased.
every thing being arranged we took in our Two Chiefs, and Set out on
the great Columbia river, haveing left our guide and the two young men
two of them enclined not to proceed on any further, and the 3rd could
be of no Service to us as he did not know the river below
Took our leave of the Chiefs and all those about us and proceeded on
down the great Columbia river passed a large Island at 8 miles about 3
miles in length, a Island on the Stard. Side the upper point of which
is opposit the center of the last mentioned Island and reaches 31/2
miles below the 1st. Island and opposit to this near the middle of the
river nine Lodges are Situated on the upper point at a rapid which is
between the lower point of the 1st Island and upper point of this;
great numbers of Indians appeared to be on this Island, and emence
quantites of fish Scaffold we landed a few minits to view a rapid which
Commenced at the lower point, passd this rapid which was verry bad
between 2 Small Islands two Still Smaller near the Lard. Side, at this
rapid on the Stard. Side is 2 Lodges of Indians Drying fish, at 21/2
miles lower and 141/2 below the point passed an Island Close under the
Stard. Side on which was 2 Lodges of Indians drying fish on Scaffolds
as above at 16 miles from the point the river passesinto the range of
high Countrey at which place the rocks project into the river from the
high clifts which is on the Lard. Side about 2/3 of the way across and
those of the Stard Side about the Same distance, the Countrey rises
here about 200 feet above The water and is bordered with black rugid
rocks, at the Commencement of this high Countrey on Lard Side a Small
riverlet falls in which appears to passed under the high County in its
whole cose Saw a mountain bearing S. W. Conocal form Covered with Snow.
passed 4 Islands, at the upper point of the 3rd is a rapid, on this
Island is two Lodges of Indians, drying fish, on the fourth Island
Close under the Stard. Side is nine large Lodges of Indians Drying fish
on Scaffolds as above at this place we were called to land, as it was
near night and no appearance of wood, we proceeded on about 2 miles
lower to Some willows, at which place we observed a drift log formed a
Camp on the Lard Side under a high hill nearly opposit to five Lodges
of Indians; Soon after we landed, our old Chiefs informed us that the
large camp above "was the Camp of the 1st Chief of all the tribes in
this quarter, and that he had called to us to land and Stay all night
with him, that he had plenty of wood for us &" This would have been
agreeable to us if it had have been understood perticelarly as we were
compelled to Use drid willows for fuel for the purpose of cooking, we
requested the old Chiefs to walk up on the Side we had landed and call
to the Chief to come down and Stay with us all night which they did;
late at night the Chief came down accompanied by 20 men, and formed a
Camp a Short distance above, the chief brought with him a large basket
of mashed berries which he left at our Lodge as a present. I saw on the
main land opposit those Lodges a number of horses feeding, we made 21
miles to day.
[Clark, October 19, 1805]
October 19th Saturday, The Great Chief 2d Chief and a Chief of a band
below Came and Smoked with us we gave a Meadel a String of Wampom &
handkerchef to the Great Chief by name Yel-leppit The 2d Chief we gave
a String of wampom, his name is ____ The 3d who lives below a String of
Wampom his name I did not learn. the Chief requested us to Stay untill
12 we excused our Selves and Set out at 9 oClock
P. Crusat played on the Violin which pleasd and astonished those reches
who are badly Clad, 3/4 with robes not half large enough to cover them,
they are homeley high Cheeks, and but fiew orniments. I Suped on the
Crane which I killed to day.
[Clark, October 19, 1805]
October 19th Saturday 1805
The great chief Yel-lep-pit two other chiefs, and a Chief of Band below
presented themselves to us verry early this morning. we Smoked with
them, enformed them as we had all others above as well as we Could by
Signs of our friendly intentions towards our red children Perticular
those who opened their ears to our Councils. we gave a Medal, a
Handkercheif & a String of Wompom to Yelleppit and a String of wompom
to each of the others. Yelleppit is a bold handsom Indian, with a
dignified countenance about 35 years of age, about 5 feet 8 inches high
and well perpotiond. he requested us to delay untill the Middle of the
day, that his people might Come down and See us, we excused our Selves
and promised to Stay with him one or 2 days on our return which
appeared to Satisfy him; great numbers of Indians Came down in Canoes
to view us before we Set out which was not untill 9 oClock A M. we
proceeded on passed a Island, close under the Lard Side about Six miles
in length opposit to the lower point of which two Isds. are situated on
one of which five Lodges vacent & Saffolds drying fish at the upper
point of this Island Swift water. a Short distance below passed two
Islands; one near the middle of the river on which is Seven lodges of
Indians drying fish, at our approach they hid themselves in their
Lodges and not one was to be seen untill we passed, they then Came out
in greater numbers than is common in Lodges of their Size, it is
probable that, the inhabitants of the 5 Lodges above had in a fright
left their lodges and decended to this place to defend them Selves if
attackted there being a bad rapid opposit the Island thro which we had
to pass prevented our landing on this Island and passifying those
people, about four miles below this fritened Island we arrived at the
head of a verry bad rapid, we came too on the Lard Side to view the
rapid before we would venter to run it, as the Chanel appeared to be
close under the oppd. Shore, and it would be necessary to liten our
canoe, I deturmined to walk down on the Lard Side, with the 2 Chiefs
the interpreter & his woman, and derected the Small canoe to prcede
down on the Lard Side to the foot of the rapid which was about 2 miles
in length I Sent on the Indian Chiefs &c. down and I assended a high
clift about 200 feet above the water from the top of which is a leavel
plain extending up the river and off for a great extent, at this place
the Countrey becoms low on each Side of the river, and affords a
prospect of the river and countrey below for great extent both to the
right and left; from this place I descovered a high mountain of emence
hight covered with Snow, this must be one of the mountains laid down by
Vancouver, as Seen from the mouth of the Columbia River, from the
Course which it bears which is West I take it to be Mt. St. Helens,
destant 156 miles a range of mountains in the Derection crossing, a
conacal mountain S. W. toped with Snow This rapid I observed as I
passed opposit to it to be verry bad interseped with high rock and
Small rockey Islands, here I observed banks of Muscle Shells banked up
in the river in Several places, I Delayed at the foot of the rapid
about 2 hours for the Canoes which I Could See met with much dificuelty
in passing down the rapid on the oposit Side maney places the men were
obliged to get into the water and haul the canoes over Sholes--while
Setting on a rock wateing for Capt Lewis I Shot a Crain which was
flying over of the common kind. I observed a great number of Lodges on
the opposit Side at Some distance below and Several Indians on the
opposit bank passing up to where Capt. Lewis was with the Canoes,
others I Saw on a knob nearly opposit to me at which place they delayed
but a Short time before they returned to their Lodges as fast as they
could run, I was fearfull that those people might not be informed of
us, I deturmined to take the little Canoe which was with me and proceed
with the three men in it to the Lodges, on my aproach not one person
was to be Seen except three men off in the plains, and they Sheared off
as I aproached near the Shore, I landed in front of five Lodges which
was at no great distance from each other, Saw no person the enteranc or
Dores of the Lodges wer Shut with the Same materials of which they were
built a mat, I approached one with a pipe in my hand entered a lodge
which was the nearest to me found 32 persons men, women and a few
children Setting permiscuesly in the Lodg, in the greatest agutation,
Some crying and ringing there hands, others hanging their heads. I gave
my hand to them all and made Signs of my friendly dispotion and offered
the men my pipe to Smok and distributed a fiew Small articles which I
had in my pockets,-this measure passified those distressed people verry
much, I then Sent one man into each lodge and entered a Second myself
the inhabitants of which I found more fritened than those of the first
lodge I destributed Sundrey Small articles amongst them, and Smoked
with the men, I then entered the third 4h & fifth Lodge which I found
Somewhat passified, the three men, Drewer Jo. & R. Fields, haveing
useed everey means in their power to convince them of our friendly
disposition to them, I then Set my Self on a rock and made Signs to the
men to come and Smoke with me not one Come out untill the Canoes
arrived with the 2 Chiefs, one of whom spoke aloud, and as was their
Custom to all we had passed the Indians came out & Set by me and Smoked
They said we came from the clouds &c &c and were not men &c. &c. this
time Capt. Lewis came down with the Canoes rear in which the Indian, as
Soon as they Saw the Squar wife of the interperters they pointed to her
and informed those who continued yet in the Same position I first found
them, they imediately all came out and appeared to assume new life, the
sight of This Indian woman, wife to one of our interprs. confirmed
those people of our friendly intentions, as no woman ever accompanies a
war party of Indians in this quarter--Capt Lewis joined us and we
Smoked with those people in the greatest friendship, dureing which time
one of our Old Chiefs informed them who we were from whence we Came and
where we were going giveing them a friendly account of us, those people
do not Speak prosisely the Same language of those above but understand
them, I Saw Several Horses and persons on hors back in the plains maney
of the men womin and children Came up from the Lodges below; all of
them appeared pleased to See us, we traded some fiew articles for fish
and berries, Dined, and proceeded on passed a Small rapid and 15 Lodges
below the five, and Encamped below an Island Close under the Lard Side,
nearly opposit to 24 Lodges on an Island near the middle of the river,
and the Main Stard Shor Soon after we landed which was at a fiew willow
trees about 100 Indians Came from the different Lodges, and a number of
them brought wood which they gave us, we Smoked with all of them, and
two of our Party Peter Crusat & Gibson played on the violin which
delighted them greatly, we gave to the principal man a String of wompon
treated them kindly for which they appeared greatfull, This Tribe can
raise about 350 men their Dress are Similar to those at the fork except
their robes are Smaller and do not reach lower than the waste and 3/4
of them have Scercely any robes at all, the women have only a Small
pece of a robe which Covers their Sholders neck and reaching down
behind to their wastes, with a tite piece of leather about the waste,
the brests are large and hang down verry low illy Shaped, high Cheeks
flattened heads, & have but fiew orniments, they are all employed in
fishing and drying fish of which they have great quantites on their
Scaffolds, their habits customs &c. I could not lern. I killed a Duck
that with the Crain afforded us a good Supper. the Indians continued
all night at our fires
This day we made 36 miles.
[Clark, October 20, 1805]
October 20th 1805 Sunday
a very cold morning wind S. W. about 100 Indians Came over this morning
to See us, after a Smoke, a brackfast on Dogs flesh we Set out. about
350 men
Killed 2 large speckle guts 4 Duck in Malade Small ducks the flavour of
which much resembles the Canvis back no timber of any kind on the
river, we Saw in the last Lodges acorns of the white oake which the
Inds. inform they precure above the falls The men are badly dressed,
Some have scarlet & blue cloth robes. one has a Salors jacket, The
women have a Short indiferent Shirt, a Short robe of Deer or Goat
Skins, & a Small Skin which they fastend. tite around their bodies &
fastend. between the legs to hide the
[Clark, October 20, 1805]
October 20th Sunday 1805
A cool morning wind S. W. we concluded to delay untill after brackfast
which we were obliged to make on the flesh of dog. after brackfast we
gave all the Indian men Smoke, and we Set out leaveing about 200 of the
nativs at our Encampment; passd. three Indian Lodges on the Lard Side a
little below our Camp which lodges I did not discover last evening,
passed a rapid at Seven miles one at a Short distance below we passed a
verry bad rapid, a chane of rocks makeing from the Stard. Side and
nearly Chokeing the river up entirely with hugh black rocks, an Island
below close under the Stard. Side on which was four Lodges of Indians
drying-fish,--here I Saw a great number of pelicons on the wing, and
black Comerants. at one oClock we landed on the lower point of an
Island at Some Indian Lodges, a large Island on the Stard Side nearly
opposit and a Small one a little below on the Lard Side on those three
Island I counted Seventeen Indian Lodges, those people are in every
respect like those above, prepareing fish for theire winter consumption
here we purchased a fiew indifferent Dried fish & a fiew berries on
which we dined-(On the upper part of this Island we discovered an
Indian vault) our curiosity induced us to examine the methot those
nativs practicd in diposeing the dead, the Vaut was made by broad poads
and pieces of Canoes leaning on a ridge pole which was Suported by 2
forks Set in the ground Six feet in hight in an easterly and westerly
direction and about 60 feet in length, and 12 feet wide, in it I
observed great numbers of humane bones of every description
perticularly in a pile near the Center of the vault, on the East End 21
Scul bomes forming a circle on Mats-; in the Westerley part of the
Vault appeared to be appropriated for those of more resent death, as
many of the bodies of the deceased raped up in leather robes lay on
board covered with mats, &c we observed, independant of the canoes
which Served as a Covering, fishing nets of various kinds, Baskets of
different Sizes, wooden boles, robes Skins, trenchers, and various Kind
of trinkets, in and Suspended on the ends of the pieces forming the
vault; we also Saw the Skeletons of Several Horses at the vault & great
number of bones about it, which Convinced me that those animals were
Sacrefised as well as the above articles to the Deceased.) after diner
we proceeded on to a bad rapid at the lower point of a Small Island on
which four Lodges of Indians were Situated drying fish; here the high
countrey Commences again on the Stard. Side leaveing a vallie of 40
miles in width, from the mustle Shel rapid. examined and passed this
rapid close to the Island at 8 miles lower passed a large Island near
the middle of the river a brook on the Stard. Side and 11 Islds. all in
view of each other below, a riverlit falls in on the Lard. Side behind
a Small Island a Small rapid below. The Star Side is high rugid hills,
the Lard. Side a low plain and not a tree to be Seen in any Direction
except a fiew Small willow bushes which are Scattered partially on the
Sides of the bank
The river to day is about 1/4 of a mile in width; this evening the
Countrey on the Lard. Side rises to the hight of that on the Starboard
Side, and is wavering--we made 42 miles to day; the current much more
uniform than yesterday or the day before. Killed 2 Speckle guls Severl.
ducks of a delicious flavour.
[Clark, October 21, 1805]
October 21st 1805 Monday
a verry Cold morning we Set out early wind from the S W. we Could not
Cook brakfast before we embarked as usial for the want of wood or
Something to burn.-
[Clark, October 21, 1805]
October 21st Monday 1805
A verry cool morning wind from the S. W. we Set out verry early and
proceeded on, last night we could not Collect more dry willows the only
fuel, than was barely Suffient to cook Supper, and not a Sufficency to
cook brackfast this morning, passd. a Small Island at 51/2 miles a
large one 8 miles in the middle of the river, Some rapid water at the
head and Eight Lodges of nativs opposit its Lower point on the Stard.
Side, we came too at those lodges, bought some wood and brackfast.
Those people recived us with great kindness, and examined us with much
attention, their employments custom Dress and appearance Similar to
those above; Speak the Same language, here we Saw two Scarlet and a
blue cloth blanket, also a Salors Jacket the Dress of the men of this
tribe only a Short robe of Deer or Goat Skins, and that of the womn is
a Short piece of Dressed Skin which fall from the neck So as to Cover
the front of the body as low as the waste, a Short robe, which is of
one Deer or antilope Skin, and a Hap, around their waste and Drawn tite
between their legs as before described, their orniments are but fiew,
and worn as those above.
we got from those people a fiew pounded rotes fish and Acorns of the
white oake, those Acorns they make use of as food, and inform us they
precure them of the nativs who live near the falls below which place
they all discribe by the term Timm at 2 miles lower passed a rapid,
large rocks Stringing into the river of large Size opposit to this
rapid on the Stard. Shore is Situated two Lodges of the nativs drying
fish here we halted a fiew minits to examine the rapid before we
entered it which was our constant Custom, and at all that was verry
dangerous put out all who could not Swim to walk around, after passing
this rapid we proceeded on passed anoothe rapid at 5 miles lower down,
above this rapid on five Lodges of Indians fishing &c. above this rapid
maney large rocks on each Side at Some distance from Shore, one mile
passed an Island Close to the Stard. Side, below which is two Lodge of
nativs, a little below is a bad rapid which is bad crouded with hugh
rocks Scattered in every Direction which renders the pasage verry
Difficuelt a little above this rapid on the Lard. Side emence piles of
rocks appears as if Sliped from the Clifts under which they lay, passed
great number of rocks in every direction Scattered in the river 5
Lodges a little below on the Stard. Side, and one lodge on an Island
near the Stard. Shore opposit to which is a verry bad rapid, thro which
we found much dificuelty in passing, the river is Crouded with rocks in
every direction, after Passing this dificult rapid to the mouth of a
Small river on the Larboard Side 40 yards wide descharges but little
water at this time, and appears to take its Sourse in the Open plains
to the S. E. from this place I proceved Some fiew Small pines on the
tops of the high hills and bushes in the hollars. imediately above &
below this little river comences a rapid which is crouded with large
rocks in every direction, the pasage both crooked and dificuelt, we
halted at a Lodge to examine those noumerous Islands of rock which apd.
to extend maney miles below,-. great numbs. of Indians came in Canoes
to View us at this place, after passing this rapid which we
accomplished without loss; winding through between the hugh rocks for
about 2 miles-. (from this rapid the Conocil mountain is S. W. which
the Indians inform me is not far to the left of the great falls; this I
call the Timm or falls mountain it is high and the top is covered with
Snow) imediately below the last rapids there is four Lodges of Indians
on the Stard. Side, proceeded on about two miles lower and landed and
encamped near five Lodges of nativs, drying fish those are the
relations of those at the Great falls, they are pore and have but
little wood which they bring up the river from the falls as they Say,
we purchased a little wood to cook our Dog meat and fish; those people
did not recive us at first with the same cordiality of those above,
they appeare to be the Same nation Speak the Same language with a
little curruption of maney words Dress and fish in the Same way, all of
whome have pierced noses and the men when Dressed ware a long taper'd
piece of Shell or beed put through the nose-this part of the river is
furnished with fine Springs which either rise high up the Sides of the
hills or on the bottom near the river and run into the river. the hills
are high and rugid a fiew scattering trees to be Seen on them either
Small pine or Scrubey white oke.
The probable reason of the Indians residing on the Stard. Side of this
as well as the waters of Lewis's River is their fear of the Snake
Indians who reside, as they nativs Say on a great river to the South,
and are at war with those tribes, one of the Old Chiefs who accompanies
us pointed out a place on the lard. Side where they had a great battle,
not maney years ago, in which maney were killed on both Sides-, one of
our party J. Collins presented us with Some verry good beer made of the
Pashi-co-quar-mash bread, which bread is the remains of what was laid
in as Stores of Provisions, at the first flat heads or Cho-punnish
Nation at the head of the Kosskoske river which by being frequently wet
molded & Sowered &c. we made 33 miles to day.
[Clark, October 22, 1805]
October 22nd Tuesday 1805
a fine morning Calm. we Set out at 9 oClock and on the Course S. 52° W.
10 miles passed lodges & Inds. and rapids as mentioned in the Cours of
yesterday, from the expiration of
Took our Baggage & formed a Camp below the rapids in a cove on the
Stard Side the distance 1200 yards haveing passed at the upper end of
the portage 17 Lodges of Indians, below the rapids & above the Camp 5
large Loges of Indians, great numbers of baskets of Pounded fish on the
rocks Islands & near their Lodges thos are neetly pounded & put in
verry new baskets of about 90 or 100 pounds wight. hire Indians to take
our heavy articles across the portage purchased a Dog for Supper Great
numbers of Indians view us, we with much dificuelty purchd. as much
wood as Cooked our dogs this evening, our men all in helth--The Indians
have their grave yards on an Island in the rapids. The Great Chief of
those Indians is out hunting. no Indians reside on the Lard Side for
fear of the Snake Indians with whome they are at war and who reside on
the large fork on the lard. a little above
[Clark, October 22, 1805]
October 22d Tuesday 1805
A fine morning calm and fare we Set out at 9 oClock passed a verry bad
rapid at the head of an Island close under the Stard. Side, above this
rapid on the Stard Side is Six Lodges of nativs Drying fish, at 9 mls.
passed a bad rapid at the head of a large Island of high, uneaven
rocks, jutting over the water, a Small Island in a Stard. Bend opposit
the upper point, on which I counted 20 parcels of dryed and pounded
fish; on the main Stard Shore opposit to this Island five Lodges of
Indians are Situated Several Indians in Canoes killing fish with gigs,
&c. opposit the center of this Island of rocks which is about 4 miles
long we discovered the enterence of a large river on the Lard. Side
which appeared to Come from the S. E.--we landed at Some distance above
the mouth of this river and Capt. Lewis and my Self Set out to view
this river above its mouth, as our rout was intersepted by a deep
narrow Chanel which runs out of this river into the Columbia a little
below the place we landed, leaveing a high dry rich Island of about 400
yards wide and 800 yards long here we Seperated, I proceeded on to the
river and Struck it at the foot of a verry Considerable rapid, here I
beheld an emence body of water Compressd in a narrow Chanel of about
200 yds in width, fomeing over rocks maney of which presented their
tops above the water, when at this place Capt. Lewis joined me haveing
delayed on the way to examine a root of which the nativs had been
digging great quantities in the bottoms of this River. at about two
miles above this River appears to be confined between two high hils
below which it divided by numbers of large rocks, and Small Islands
covered with a low groth of timber, and has a rapid as far as the
narrows three Small Islands in the mouth of this River, this River
haveing no Indian name that we could find out, except "the River on
which the Snake Indians live," we think it best to leave the nameing of
it untill our return.
we proceeded on pass the mouth of this river at which place it appears
to discharge 1/4 as much water as runs down the Columbia. at two miles
below this River passed Eight Lodges on the Lower point of the Rock
Island aforesaid at those Lodges we saw large logs of wood which must
have been rafted down the To war-ne hi ooks River, below this Island on
the main Stard Shore is 16 Lodges of nativs; here we landed a fiew
minits to Smoke, the lower point of one Island opposit which heads in
the mouth of Towarnehiooks River which I did not observe untill after
passing these lodges about 1/2 a mile lower passed 6 more Lodges on the
Same Side and 6 miles below the upper mouth of Towarnehiooks River the
comencement of the pitch of the Great falls, opposit on the Stard. Side
is 17 Lodges of the nativs we landed and walked down accompanied by an
old man to view the falls, and the best rout for to make a portage
which we Soon discovered was much nearest on the Stard. Side, and the
distance 1200 yards one third of the way on a rock, about 200 yards
over a loose Sand collected in a hollar blown by the winds from the
bottoms below which was disagreeable to pass, as it was Steep and
loose. at the lower part of those rapids we arrived at 5 Large Lodges
of nativs drying and prepareing fish for market, they gave us
Philburts, and berries to eate, we returned droped down to the head of
the rapids and took every article except the Canoes across the portag
where I had formed a camp on ellegable Situation for the protection of
our Stores from Thieft, which we were more fearfull of, than their
arrows. we despatched two men to examine the river on the opposit Side,
and reported that the Canoes could be taken down a narrow Chanel on the
opposit Side after a Short portage at the head of the falls, at which
place the Indians take over their Canoes. Indians assisted us over the
portage with our heavy articles on their horses, the waters is divided
into Several narrow chanels which pass through a hard black rock
forming Islands of rocks at this Stage of the water, on those Islands
of rocks as well as at and about their Lodges I observe great numbers
of Stacks of pounded Salmon neetly preserved in the following manner, i
e after Suffiently Dried it is pounded between two Stones fine, and put
into a speces of basket neetly made of grass and rushes of better than
two feet long and one foot Diamiter, which basket is lined with the
Skin of Salmon Stretched and dried for the purpose, in theis it is
pressed down as hard as is possible, when full they Secure the open
part with the fish Skins across which they fasten tho the loops of the
basket that part very Securely, and then on a Dry Situation they Set
those baskets the Corded part up, their common Custom is to Set 7 as
close as they can Stand and 5 on the top of them, and secure them with
mats which is raped around them and made fast with cords and Covered
also with mats, those 12 baskets of from 90 to 100 w. each form a
Stack. thus preserved those fish may be kept Sound and Sweet Several
years, as those people inform me, Great quantities as they inform us
are Sold to the whites people who visit the mouth of this river as well
as to the nativs below.
on one of those Island I saw Several tooms but did not visit them The
principal Chiefs of the bands resideing about this Place is out hunting
in the mountains to the S. W.--no Indians reside on the S. W.side of
this river for fear (as we were informed) of the Snake Indians, who are
at war with the tribes on this river---they represent the Snake Indians
as being verry noumerous, and resideing in a great number of villages
on Towarnehiooks River which falls in 6 miles above on the Lard. Side
and is reaches a great ways and is large a little abov its mouth at
which part it is not intersepted with rapids, they inform that one
considerable rapid & maney Small ones in that river, and that the Snake
live on Salmon, and they go to war to their first villages in 12 days,
the Couse they pointed is S. E. or to the S of S. E. we are visited by
great numbers of Indians to Day to view us, we purchased a Dog for
Supper, Some fish and with dificuelty precured as much wood as Cooked
Supper, which we also purchased we made 19 miles to day
[Clark, October 23, 1805]
October 23rd (Saturday) Wednesday 1805
Took the Canoes over the Portage on the Lard. Side with much
dificuelty, description on another Paper one Canoe got loose & cought
by the Indians which we were obliged to pay. our old Chiefs over herd
the Indians from below Say they would try to kill us & informed us of
it, we have all the arm examined and put in order, all th Inds leave us
early, Great numbers of flees on the Lard Side--Shot a Sea Oter which I
did not get, Great Numbers about those rapids we purchased 8 dogs,
Small & fat for our party to eate, the Indians not verry fond of
Selling their good fish, compells us to make use of dogs for food
Exchanged our Small canoe for a large & a very new one built for riding
the waves obsd Merdn. altd. 66° 27' 30" Latd. prodsd. 45° 42' 57 3/10" North
[Clark, October 23, 1805]
October 23d Wednesday 1805
a fine morning, I with the greater part of the men Crossed in the
Canoes to opposit Side above the falls and hauled them across the
portage of 457 yards which is on the Lard. Side and certainly the best
side to pass the canoes I then decended through a narrow chanel of
about 150 yards wide forming a kind of half circle in it course of a
mile to a pitch of 8 feet in which the chanel is divided by 2 large
rocks at this place we were obliged to let the Canoes down by Strong
ropes of Elk Skin which we had for the purpose, one Canoe in passing
this place got loose by the Cords breaking, and was cought by the
Indians below. I accomplished this necessary business and landed Safe
with all the Canoes at our Camp below the falls by 3 oClock P.M. nearly
covered with flees which were So thick amongst the Straw and fish Skins
at the upper part of the portage at which place the nativs had been
Camped not long Since; that every man of the party was obliged to Strip
naked dureing the time of takeing over the canoes, that they might have
an oppertunity of brushing the flees of their legs and bodies--Great
numbers of Sea Otters in the river below the falls, I Shot one in the
narrow chanel to day which I could not get. Great numbers of Indians
visit us both from above and below---one of the old Chiefs who had
accompanied us from the head of the river, informed us that he herd the
Indians Say that the nation below intended to kill us, we examined all
the arms &c. complete the amunition to 100 rounds. The nativs leave us
earlyer this evening than usial, which gives a Shadow of Confirmation
to the information of our Old Chief, as we are at all times & places on
our guard, are under no greater apprehention than is common.
we purchased 8 Small fat dogs for the party to eate the nativs not
being fond of Selling their good fish, compells us to make use of Dog
meat for food, the flesh of which the most of the party have become
fond of from the habits of useing it for Some time past. The Altitude
of this day 66° 27' 30" gave for Latd. 45° 42' 57 1/10 N.
I observed on the beach near the Indian Lodges two Canoes butifull of
different Shape & Size to what we had Seen above wide in the midde and
tapering to each end, on the bow curious figures were Cut in the wood
&c. Capt. Lewis went up to the Lodges to See those Canoes and exchanged
our Smallest Canoe for one of them by giveing a Hatchet & few trinkets
to the owner who informed that he purchased it of a white man below for
a horse, these Canoes are neeter made than any I have ever Seen and
Calculated to ride the waves, and carry emence burthens, they are dug
thin and are suported by cross pieces of about 1 inch diamuter tied
with Strong bark thro holes in the Sides. our two old Chiefs appeared
verry uneasy this evening.
[Clark, October 24, 1805]
October 24th Thursday 1805
a fine morning the Indians approached us with caution. our 2 old Chiefs
deturmin to return home, Saying they were at war with Indians below and
they would kill them we pursuaded them to Stay 2 nights longer with us,
with a view to make a peace with those Indians below as well as to have
them with us dureing our Delay with this tribe. Capt Lewis went to view
the falls I Set out with the party at 9 oClock a m at 21/2 miles passed
a rock which makes from the Stard Side 4 Lodges above 1 below and
Confined the river in a narrow channel of about 45 yards this continued
for about 1/4 of a mile & widened to about 200 yards, in those narrows
the water was agitated in a most Shocking manner boils Swell & whorl
pools, we passed with great risque It being impossible to make a
portage of the Canoes, about 2 miles lower passed a verry Bad place
between 2 rocks one large & in the middle of the river here our Canoes
took in Some water, I put all the men who Could not Swim on Shore; &
Sent a fiew articles Such as guns & papers, and landed at a village of
20 houses on the Stard Side in a Deep bason where the river ap-prd. to
be blocked up with emence rocks I walked down and examined the pass
found it narrow, and one verry bad place a little in the narrows I
pursued this Chanel which is from 50 to 100 yards wide and Swels and
boils with a most Tremendeous manner; prosued this channel 5 ms &
returned found Capt Lewis & a Chief from below with maney of his men on
a visit to us, one of our Party Pete Crusat played on the violin which
pleased the Savage, the men danced, Great numbers of Sea Orter Pole
Cats about those fishories. the houses of those Indians are 20 feet
Square and Sunk 8 feet under ground & Covered with bark with a Small
door round at top rose about 18 Inches above ground, to keep out the
Snow I saw 107 parcels of fish Stacked, and great quantites in the
houses
[Clark, October 24, 1805]
October 24th Thursday 1805
The morning fare after a beautifull night, the nativs approached us
this morning with great caution. our two old chiefs expressed a desire
to return to their band from this place, Saying "that they Could be of
no further Service to us, as their nation extended no further down the
river than those falls, and as the nation below had expressed hostile
intentions against us, would Certainly kill them; perticularly as They
had been at war with each other;" we requested them to Stay with us two
nights longer, and we would See the nation below and make a peace
between them, they replied they "were anxious to return and See our
horses" we insisted on their Staying with us two nights longer to which
they agreed; our views were to detain those Chiefs with us untill we
Should pass the next falls, which we were told was verry bad, and at no
great distance below, that they might inform us of any designs of the
nativs, and if possible to bring about a peace between them and the
tribes below.
The first pitch of this falls is 20 feet perpendicular, then passing
thro a narrow Chanel for 1 mile to a rapid of about 18 feet fall below
which the water has no perceptable fall but verry rapid See Sketch No.
1. It may be proper here to remark that from Some obstruction below,
the cause of which we have not yet learned, the water in high fluds
(which are in the Spring) rise below these falls nearly to a leavel
with the water above the falls; the marks of which can be plainly
trac'd around the falls. at that Stage of the water the Salmon must
pass up which abounds in Such great numbers above--below those falls
are Salmon trout and great numbers of the heads of a Species of trout
Smaller than the Salmon. those fish they catch out of the Salmon
Season, and are at this time in the act of burrying those which they
had drid for winter food. the mode of buring those fish is in holes of
various Sizes, lined with Straw on which they lay fish Skins in which
they inclose the fish which is laid verry close, and then Covered with
earth of about 12 or 15 inches thick. Capt Lewis and three men crossed
the river and on the opposit Side to view the falls which he had not
yet taken a full view of--At 9 oClock a.m. I Set out with the party and
proceeded on down a rapid Stream of about 400 yards wide at 21/2 miles
the river widened into a large bason to the Stard. Side on which there
is five Lodges of Indians. here a tremendious black rock Presented
itself high and Steep appearing to choke up the river nor could I See
where the water passed further than the Current was drawn with great
velocity to the Lard Side of this rock at which place I heard a great
roreing. I landed at the Lodges and the natives went with me to the top
of this rock which makes from the Stard. Side; from the top of which I
could See the dificuelties we had to pass for Several miles below; at
this place the water of this great river is compressed into a Chanel
between two rocks not exceeding forty five yards wide and continues for
a 1/4 of a mile when it again widens to 200 yards and continues this
width for about 2 miles when it is again intersepted by rocks. This
obstruction in the river accounts for the water in high floods riseing
to Such a hite at the last falls. The whole of the Current of this
great river must at all Stages pass thro this narrow chanel of 45 yards
wide. as the portage of our canoes over this high rock would be
impossible with our Strength, and the only danger in passing thro those
narrows was the whorls and Swills arriseing from the Compression of the
water, and which I thought (as also our principal watermen Peter
Crusat) by good Stearing we could pass down Safe, accordingly I detur
mined to pass through this place notwithstanding the horrid appearance
of this agitated gut Swelling, boiling & whorling in every direction
(which from the top of the rock did not appear as bad as when I was in
it;) however we passed Safe to the astonishment of all the Inds. of the
last Lodges who viewed us from the top of the rock. passed one Lodge
below this rock and halted on the Stard. Side to view a verry bad
place, the Current divided by 2 Islands of rocks the lower of them
large and in the middle of the river, this place being verry bad I Sent
by land all the men who could not Swim and Such articles as was most
valuable to us Such as papers Guns & amunition, and proceeded down with
the Canoes two at a time to a village of 20 wood housies in a Deep bend
to the Stard. Side below which a rugid black rock about 20 feet biter
than the Common high fluds of the river with Several dry Chapels which
appeared to Choke the river up quite across; this I took to be the 2d
falls or the place the nativs above call timm, The nativs of this
village reived me verry kindly, one of whome envited me into his house,
which I found to be large and comodious, and the first wooden houses in
which Indians have lived Since we left those in the vicinty of the
Illinois, they are scattered permiscuisly on a elivated Situation near
a mound of about 30 feet above the Common leavel, which mound has Some
remains of houses and has every appearance of being artificial--those
houses are about the Same Shape Size and form 20 feet wide and 30 feet
long with one Dore raised 18 Inches above ground, they are 291/2 inches
high & 14 wide, forming in a half Circle above those houses were Sunk
into the earth Six feet, the roofs of them was Supported by a ridge
pole resting on three Strong pieces of Split timber thro one of which
the dore was cut that and the walls the top of which was just above
ground Suported a certain number of Spars which are Covered with the
Bark of the white Ceadar, or Arber Vitea; and the whole attached and
Secured by the fibers of the Cedar. the eaves at or near the earth, the
gable ends and Side walls are Secured with Split boards which is
Seported on iner Side with Strong pieces of timber under the eves &c.
to keep those pieces errect & the earth from without pressing in the
boards, Suported by Strong posts at the Corners to which those poles
were attached to give aditional Strength, Small openings were left
above the ground, for the purpose, as I conjectured, of deschargeing
Their arrows at a besiegeing enimey; Light is admited Thro an opening
at top which also Serves for the Smoke to pass through. one half of
those houses is apropriated for the Storeing away Dried & pounded fish
which is the principal food The other part next the dore is the part
occupied by the nativs who have beds raised on either Side, with a fire
place in the center of this Space each house appeared to be occupied by
about three families; that part which is apropriated for fish was
crouded with that article, and a fiew baskets of burries--I dispatched
a Sufficent number of the good Swimers back for the 2 canoes above the
last rapid and with 2 men walked down three miles to examine the river
Over a bed of rocks, which the water at verry high fluds passes over,
on those rocks I Saw Several large Scaffols on which the Indians dry
fish; as this is out of Season the poles on which they dry those fish
are tied up verry Securely in large bundles and put upon the Scaffolds,
I counted 107 Stacks of dried pounded fish in different places on those
rocks which must have contained io,ooo w. of neet fish, The evening
being late I could not examine the river to my Satisfaction, the Chanel
is narrow and compressed for about 2 miles, when it widens into a deep
bason to the Stard. Side, & again contracts into a narrow chanel
divided by a rock I returned through a rockey open countrey infested
with pole-cats to the village where I met with Capt. Lewis the two old
Chiefs who accompanied us & the party & canoes who had all arrived
Safe; the Canoes haveing taken in Some water at the last rapids. here
we formed a Camp near the Village, The principal Chief from the nation
below with Several of his men visited us, and afforded a favourable
oppertunity of bringing about a Piece and good understanding between
this chief and his people and the two Chiefs who accompanied us which
we have the Satisfaction to Say we have accomplished, as we have every
reason to believe and that those two bands or nations are and will be
on the most friendly terms with each other. gave this Great Chief a
Medal and Some other articles, of which he was much pleased, Peter
Crusat played on the violin and the men danced which delighted the
nativs, who Shew every civility towards us. we Smoked with those people
untill late at night, when every one retired to rest.
[Clark, October 25, 1805]
October 25th Friday 1805
A Cold morning, we deturmined to attempt the Chanel after brackfast I
took down all the party below the bad places with a load & one Canoe
passed well, a 2d passed well I had men on the Shore with ropes to
throw in in Case any acidence happened at the Whirl &c--the Inds on the
rocks veiwing us the 3rd Canoe nearly filled with water we got her Safe
to Shore. The last Canoe Came over well which to me was truly
gratifying Set out and had not passed 2 mils before 3 Canoes run
against a rock in the river with great force no damg. met with a 2d
Chief of the nation from hunting, we Smoked with him and his party and
gave a medal of The Small Size & Set out passed great numbers of rocks,
good water and Came to at a high point of rocks below the mouth of a
Creek which falls in on the Lard Side and head up towards the high Snow
mountain to the S W. this Creek is 20 yards wide and has Some beaver
Signs at its mouth river about 1/2 a mile wide and Crouded with Sea
otters, & drum was Seen this evening we took possession of a high Point
of rocks to defend our Selves in Case the threts of those Indians below
Should be put in execution against us. Sent out Some hunters to look if
any Signs of game, one man killed a Small deer & Several others Seen I
killed a goose, and Suped hartily on venison & goose. Camped on the
rock guard under the hill.
[Clark, October 25, 1805]
October 25th Friday 1805
a cool morning Capt Lewis and my Self walked down to See the place the
Indians pointed out as the worst place in passing through the gut,
which we found difficuelt of passing without great danger, but as the
portage was impractiable with our large Canoes, we Concluded to Make a
portage of our most valuable articles and run the canoes thro
accordingly on our return divided the party Some to take over the
Canoes, and others to take our Stores across a portage of a mile to a
place on the Chanel below this bad whorl & Suck, with Some others I had
fixed on the Chanel with roapes to throw out to any who Should
unfortunately meet with difficuelty in passing through; great number of
Indians viewing us from the high rocks under which we had to pass, the
3 firt Canoes passed thro very well, the 4th nearly filled with water,
the last passed through by takeing in a little water, thus Safely below
what I conceved to be the worst part of this Chanel, felt my Self
extreamly gratified and pleased. we loaded the Canoes & Set out, and
had not proceeded, more than two mile before the unfortunate Canoe
which filled crossing the bad place above, run against a rock and was
in great danger of being lost, This Chanel is through a hard rough
black rock, from 50-100 yards wide. Swelling and boiling in a most
tremendious maner Several places on which the Indians inform me they
take the Salmon as fast as they wish; we passed through a deep bason to
the Stard Side of 1 mile below which the River narrows and divided by a
rock The Curent we found quit jentle, here we met with our two old
Chiefs who had been to a village below to Smoke a friendly pipe, and at
this place they met the Cheif & party from the village above on his
return from hunting all of whome were then crossing over their horses,
we landed to Smoke a pipe with this Chief whome we found to be a bold
pleasing looking man of about 50 years of age dressd. in a war jacket a
cap Legins & mockersons. he gave us Some meat of which he had but
little and informed us he in his rout met with a war party of Snake
Indians from the great river of the S. E. which falls in a few miles
above and had a fight. we gave this Chief a Medal, &c. a parting Smoke
with our two faithful friends the Chiefs who accompanied us from the
head of the river, (who had purchased a horse each with 2 robes and
intended to return on horse back) we proceeded on down the water fine,
rocks in every derection for a fiew miles when the river widens and
becoms a butifull jentle Stream of about half a mile wide, Great
numbers of the Sea Orter about those narrows and both below and above.
we Came too, under a high point of rocks on the Lard. Side below a
creek of 20 yards wide and much water, as it was necessary to make Some
Selestial observations we formed our Camp on the top of a high point of
rocks, which forms a kind of fortification in the Point between the
river & Creek, with a boat guard, this Situation we Concieve well
Calculated for defence, and Conveniant to hunt under the foots of the
mountain to the West & S. W. where timber of different kinds grows, and
appears to be handsom Coverts for the Deer, in oke woods, Sent out
hunters to examine for game G. D. Killed a Small Deer & other Saw much
Sign, I killed a goose in the creek which was verry fat--one of the
guard saw a Drum fish to day as he Conceved our Situation well
Calculated to defend our Selves from any designs of the natives, Should
They be enclined to attack us.
This little Creek heads in the range of mountains which run S S W & N W
for a long distance on which is Scattering pine white Oake &c. The
Pinical of the round toped mountain which we Saw a Short distance below
the forks of this river is S. 43° W. of us and abt 37 miles, it is at
this time toped with Snow we called this the falls mountain or Timm
mountain. The face of the Countrey, on both Side of the river above and
about the falls, is Steep ruged and rockey open and contain but a Small
preportion of erbage, no timber a fiew bushes excepted, The nativs at
the upper falls raft their timber down Towarnehooks River & those at
the narrows take theirs up the river to the lower part of the narrows
from this Creek, and Carry it over land 3 miles to their houses &c. at
the mouth of this creek Saw Some beaver Sign, and a Small wolf in a
Snare Set in the willows The Snars of which I saw Several made for to
catch wolves, are made as follows vz: a long pole which will Spring is
made fast with bark to a willow, on the top of this pole a String
[Clark, October 26, 1805]
October 26th 1805 Saturday
a fine morning Sent out Six men to hunt deer & Collect rozin to Pitch
our Canoes, had all our articles put out to dry--Canoes drawed out and
repaired, the injories recved in drawing them over the rocks, every
article wet in the Canoe which nearly Sunk yesterday-
In the evening 2 Chief and 15 men came over in a Single Canoe, those
Chf's proved to be the 2 great Chiefs of the tribes above, one gave me
a dressed Elk Skin, and gave us Som deer meet, and 2 Cakes of white
bread made of white roots, we gave to each Chief a Meadel of the Small
Size a red Silk handkerchief & a knife to the 1st a arm ban & a pin of
Paint & a Comb to his Son a Piece of riben tied to a tin gorget and 2
hams of Venison They deturmined to Stay with us all night, we had a
fire made for them & one man played on the violin which pleased them
much my Servent danced--our hunters killed five Deer, 4 verry large
gray Squirrels, a goose & Pheasent, one man giged a Salmon trout which
we had fried in a little Bears oil which a Chief gave us yesterday and
I think the finest fish I ever tasted, Saw great numbers of white Crams
flying in Different directions verry high. The river has rose nearly 8
Inches to day and has every appearance of a tide, from what Cause I
can't Say--our hunters Saw Elk & bear signs to day in the white oake
woods the Country to the Lard is broken Country thinly timbered with
pine and white oake, a mountain which I must call Timm or falls
Mountain rises verry high and bears to S W the Course it has bore Sinc
we first Saw it. our men danced to night. dried all our wet articles
and repaired our Canoes
The flees my Self and the men got on them in passing thro the plains
the Indians had lately lived in Lodges on the Lard. Side at the falls,
are very troublesom and with every exertion the men Can't get rid of
them, perticilarly as they have no clothes to change those which they
wore Those Indians are at Ware with the Snake Indians on the river
which falls in a few miles above this and have lately had a battle with
them, their loss I cannot lern.
[Clark, October 26, 1805]
October 26th Saturday 1805
A fine morning Sent Six men out to hunt Deer, and Collect rozin to
pitch the Canoes which has become verry leakey, by frequently hauling
them over rocks &c as well Striking rocks frequently in passing down.
all our articles we have exposed to the Sun to Dry; and the Canoes
drawn out and turned up--maney of our Stores entirely Spoiled by being
repeetedly wet; A number of Indians came to the Oposit Side of the
river in the fore part of the day and Shew that they were anxious to
Cross to us, we did not think proper to cross them in our Canoes and
did not Send for them. in the evening two Chiefs and 15 men came over
in a Small Canoe, those two Chiefs proved to be the two Principal
Chiefs of the tribes above at the falls, and above, who was out hunting
at the time we passed their bands; one of those Chiefs made Capt Lewis
and my Self each a Small present of Deer meat, and Small Cakes of white
bread made of roots. we gave to each Chief a Meadel of the Small Size a
red Silk handkerchief, arm band, Knife & a piece of Paint, and
acknowledged them as chiefs; as we thought it necessary at this time to
treat those people verry friendly & ingratiate our Selves with them, to
insure us a kind & friendly reception on our return, we gave Small
presents to Several, and half a Deer to them to eate. we had also a
fire made for those people to Sit around in the middle of our Camp, and
Peter Crusat Played on the violin, which pleased those nativs
exceedingly. the two Chiefs and Several men deturmined to delay all
night (yorked Danced for the Inds) with us all the others returned,
leaving the horses for those who Staied on the opposit Side. our
hunters returned in the evening Killed five Deer, four verry large grey
Squirels and a grouse. one of the guard at the river guiged a Salmon
Trout, which we had fried in a little Bears Oil which the Chief we
passed below the narrows gave us; this I thought one of the most
delicious fish I have ever tasted Great numbers of white Crain flying
in different Directions verry high--The river rose 8 Inches today from
what cause I cannot Say certainly, as the tides cannot effect the river
here as there is a falls below, I conjecture that the rise is owing to
the winds which has Set up the river for 24 hours past. our hunters
inform that the countrey back is broken, Stoney and thinly timbered
with pine and White Oake. They Saw Elk & Bear Sign in the mountains.
Dried all our wet articles and repared our Canoes to day, and the Party
amused themselves at night danceing. The Flees which the party got on
them at the upper & great falls, are very troublesom and dificuelt to
get rid of, perticularly as the men have not a Change of Clothes to put
on, they Strip off their Clothes and kill the flees, dureing which time
they remain neckid.
The nations in the vicinity of this place is at War with the Snake
Indians who they Say are noumerous and live on the river we passed
above the falls on the Same Side on which we have encamped, and the
nearest town is about four days march they pointed nearly S. E. and
informed that they had a battle with those Inds. laterly, their loss I
could not assertain
[Clark, October 27, 1805]
October 27th Sunday 1805
a verry windy night and morning wind from the West and hard, Send out
hunters and they killed 4 deer 1 pheasent and a Squirel the 2 Chiefs
and party Continue with us, we treat them well give them to eate &
Smoke, they were joined by Seven others, from below who Stayed about 3
hours and returned down the river in a pet, Soon after the Chiefs
deturmined to go home we had them put across the river the wind verry
high, we took a vocabelary of the Languages of the 2 nations, the one
liveing at the Falls call themselves E-nee-shur The other resideing at
the levels or narrows in a village on the Std. Side call themselves
E-chee-lute not withstanding those people live only 6 miles apart, but
fiew words of each others language--the language of those above having
great Similarity with those tribes of flat heads we have passed--all
have the Clucking tone anexed which is predomint. above, all flatten
the heads of their female children near the falls, and maney above
follow the Same Custom The language of the Che-luc-it-to-quar a fiew
miles below is different from both in a Small degree. The wind
increased in the evening and blew verry hard from the Same point W. day
fair and Cold--The Creek at which we are Encamped is Called by the
natives-Que-nett Some words with Shabono about his duty--The pinical of
Falls mountain bears S 43° W. about 35 miles
[Clark, October 27, 1805]
October 27th Sunday 1805
Wind hard from the west all the last night and this morning. Some words
with Shabono our interpreter about his duty. Sent out Several hunters
who brought in four Deer, one Grouse & a Squirel. The two Chiefs &
party was joined by Seven others from below in two canoes, we gave them
to eate & Smoke Several of those from below returned down the river in
a bad humer, haveing got into this pet by being prevented doeing as
they wished with our articles which was then exposed to dry--we took a
Vocabelary of the Languages of those two chiefs which are verry
different notwithstanding they are Situated within Six miles of each
other, Those at the great falls Call themselves E-nee-shur and are
understood on the river above. Those at the Great Narrows Call
themselves Eche-lute and is understood below, maney words of those
people are the Same, and Common to all the flat head Bands which we
have passed on the river, all have the clucking tone anexed which is
prodomonate above. all the Bands flatten the heads of the female
Children, and maney of the male children also. Those two Chief leave us
this evening and returned to their bands, the wind verry high & from
the West, day proved fair and Cool.
The nativs Call this Creek near which we are encamped-Que-nett.
[Clark, October 28, 1805]
October 28th Monday 1805
a windey morning loaded our Canoes and Set out at 9 oClock a m 3 Canoes
Came down from the Village above & 2 from that below in one of those
Canoes a Indian wore his hair cued, and had on a round hat. Wind from
West
Those Indians have a musket a Sword, and Several Brass Tea kitties
which they appear to be verry fond of we purchased of those people five
Small dogs, and Some Dried beries & white bread of roots, the wind rose
and we were obliged to lie by about 1 mile below on the Lard. Side
North 1 mile to a rock Island on the Stard. Side. we had not landed
long eer an Indian Canoe Came from below with 3 Indians in it, those
Indians make verry nice Canoes of Pine. Thin with aporns & Carve on the
head imitation of animals & other heads; The Indians above Sacrafise
the property of the Deceased to wit horses Canoes, bowls Basquets of
which they make great use to hold water boil their meet &c. &c. great
many Indians came down from the uppr Village & Sat with us, Smoked,
rained all the evenig & blew hard from the West encamped on the Lard
Side opsd. an Rock in a verry Bad place
[Clark, October 28, 1805]
October 28th Monday 1805
A cool windey morning we loaded our Canoes and Set out at 9 oClock,
a.m. as we were about to Set out 3 canoes from above and 2 from below
came to view us in one of those Canoes I observed an Indian with round
hat jacket & wore his hair cued we proceeded on river inclosed on each
Side in high Clifts of about 90 feet of loose dark coloured rocks at
four miles we landed at a village of 8 houses on the Stard. Side under
Some rugid rocks, Those people call themselves Chil-luckit-tequaw, live
in houses Similar to those described, Speake Somewhat different
language with maney words the Same & understand those in their
neighbourhood Cap Lewis took a vocabilary of this Language I entered
one of the houses in which I Saw a British musket, a cutlass and
Several brass Tea kittles of which they appeared verry fond Saw them
boiling fish in baskets with Stones, I also Saw figures of animals &
men Cut & painted on boards in one Side of the house which they
appeared to prize, but for what purpose I will not venter to Say,-.
here we purchased five Small Dogs, Some dried buries, & white bread
made of roots, the wind rose and we were obliged to lie by all day at 1
mile below on the Lard. Side. we had not been long on Shore before a
Canoe came up with a man woman & 2 children, who had a fiew roots to
Sell, Soon after maney others joined them from above, The wind which is
the cause of our delay, does not retard the motions of those people at
all, as their canoes are calculated to ride the highest waves, they are
built of white cedar or Pine verry light wide in the middle and tapers
at each end, with aperns, and heads of animals carved on the bow, which
is generally raised. Those people make great use of Canoes, both for
transpotation and fishing, they also use of bowls & baskets made of
Grass & Splits to hold water and boil their fish & meat. Maney of the
nativs of the last Village Came down Set and Smoke with us, wind blew
hard accompanied with rain all the evening, our Situation not a verry
good one for an encampment, but Such as it is we are obliged to put up
with, the harbor is a Safe one, we encamped on the Sand wet and
disagreeable one Deer killed this evening, and another wounded near our
Camp.
[Clark, October 29, 1805]
October 29th Tuesday 1805
a Cloudy morning wind Still from th West not hard, we Set out at day
light proceeded on about 5 miles and Came too at a Lodge of a Chief
which we made at the upper village at th falls about his house there is
Six others This chief gave us to eate Sackacommis burries Hasel nuts
fish Pounded, and a kind of Bread made of roots--we gave to the Women
pices of ribon, which they appeared pleased with--those houses are
large 25 feet Sqr and contain abt. 8 men, Say 30 inhabitents-
Those people are friendly gave us to eate fish Beries, nuts bread of
roots & Drid beries and we Call this the friendly Village We purchased
12 dogs of them & 4 Sacks of Pounded fish, and Some fiew Dried Berries
and proceeded on at 4 miles further we landed to Smoke a pipe with the
people of a village of 11 houses we found those people also friendly
Their Village is Situated imediately below the mouth of a River of 60
yards water which falls in on the Stard. Side and heads in the
mountains to the N. & N, E, the Indians inform us that this river is
long and full of falls no Salmon pass up it. They also inform that 10
nations lives on this river by hunting and on buries &c. The Countrey
begin to be thinly timbered with Pine & low white oake verry rocky and
hilley--We purchased at this vilg 4 dogs--at the end of this Course is
3 rocks, in the river and a rock point from the Lard. the middle rock
is large and has a number of graves on it we call it the Sepulchar
Island. The last River we call Caterack River from the number of falls
which the Indians inform is on it The Indians are afraid to hunt or be
on th Lard Side of this Columbia river for fear of the Snake Ind. who
reside on a fork of this river which falls in above the falls a good
Situation for winter quarters if game can be had is just below
Sepulchar rock on the Lard Side, high & pine and oake timber the rocks
ruged above, good hunting Countrey back, as it appears from the river
Indian village opsd. Of 2 Lodgs river 1/2 mile wide at rocks
The robes of those Indians are, of wolf deer Elk, wild cats, Some fox,
& Deer I saw one of the mountain Sheep, th wool thick and long Corse
hair on the back, resembling bristles--those animals live among the
rocks in those mountains below, orter is much valued by those people
they Cew their hair on each Side with it and ware it about the necks
with the tail in front
Came too at 3 miles on this Course at 3 Houses of flatheads and
Encamped on the Stard. Side, a Pond lies back of those people in which
we Saw great numbers of the Small Swan. we Purchased of those people 3
Dogs they gave us High bush cramburies, bread of roots and roots, they
were pleased with musick of th violin.
[Clark, October 29, 1805]
October 29th Tuesday 1805
A cloudy morning wind from the West but not hard, we Set out at day
light, and proceeded on about five miles Came too on the Stard. Side at
a village of 7 houses built in the Same form and materials of those
above, here we found the Chief we had Seen at the long narrows named
____
we entered his lodge and he gave us to eate Pounded fish, bread made of
roots, Filberts nuts, & the berries of Sackecomme. we gave to each
woman of the lodge a brace of Ribon of which they were much pleased.
each of those houses may be calculated to contain 8 men and 30 Soles,
they are hospitable and good humered Speak the Same language of the
inhabitants of the last village, we call this the friendly village. I
observed in the lodge of the Chief Sundery articles which must have
been precured from the white people, Such a Scarlet & blue Cloth Sword
Jacket & hat. I also observed two wide Split boards with images on them
Cut and painted in emitation of a man; I pointed to this image and
asked a man to what use he put them to, he Said Something the only word
I understood was "good," and then Steped to the image and took out his
Bow & quiver to Show me, and Some other of his war emplemints, from
behind it.
The Chief then directed his wife to hand him his medison bag which he
opened and Showed us 14 fingers which he Said was the fingers of his
enemies which he had taken in war, and pointed to S. E. from which
direction I concluded they were Snake Indians; this is the first
Instance I ever knew of the Indians takeing any other trofea of their
exploits off the dead bodies of their Enimies except the Scalp.--The
Chief painted those fingers with Several other articles which was in
his bag red and Securely put them back, haveing first mad a Short
harrang which I Suppose was bragging of what he had done in war. we
purchased 12 Dogs and 4 Sacks of fish, & Some fiew ascid berries, after
brackfast we proceeded on, the mountains are high on each Side,
containing Scattering pine white oake & under groth, hill Sides Steep
and rockey; at 4 miles lower we observed a Small river falling in with
great rapidity on the Stard. Side below which is a village of 11
houses, here we landed to Smoke a pipe with the nativs and examine the
mouth of the river, which I found to be 60 yards wide rapid and deep,
The inhabitants of the village are friendly and Chearfull; those people
inform us also those at the last village that this little river is long
and full of falls, no Salmon pass up it, it runs from N. N. E. that ten
nations live on this river and its waters, on buries, and what game
they Can kill with their Bow & arrows
we purchased 4 dogs and Set out--(this village is the of the Same
nation of the one we last passed) and proceeded on The Countrey on each
side begin to be thicker timbered with Pine and low white Oake; verry
rockey and broken. passed three large rocks in The river the middle
rock is large long and has Several Squar vaults on it. we call this
rockey Island the Sepulchar--The last river we passed we Shall Call the
Cataract River from the number of falls which the Indians say is on it-
passed 2 Lodges of Indians a Short distance below the Sepulchar Island
on the Stard. Side river wide, at 4 mile passed 2 houses on the Stard.
Side, Six miles lower passed 4 houses above the mouth of a Small river
40 yards wide on the Lard. Side a thick timbered bottom above & back of
those houses; those are the first houses which we have Seen on the
South Side of the Columbia River, (and the axess to those dificuelt)
for fear of the approach of their common enemies the Snake Indians,
passed 14 houses on the Std. Side Scattered on the bank--from the mouth
of this little river which we shall Call Labeasche River, the falls
mountain is South and the top is covered with Snow. one mile below pass
the mouth of a large rapid Stream on the Stard. Side, opposit to a
large Sand bar, in this creek the Indians above take their fish, here
we Saw Several canoes, which induced us to call this Canoe Creek it is
28 yards wide, about 4 miles lower and below the Sand bar is a butifull
cascade falling over a rock of about 100 feet, a Short distance lower
passed 4 Indian houses on the Lard. Side in a timbered bottom, a fiew
miles further we came too at 3 houses on Stard. Side, back of which is
a pond in which I Saw Great numbers of Small Swan, Capt. Lewis and I
went into the houses of those people who appeared Somewhat Surprised at
first Their houses are built on the Same Construction of those above,
Speak the Same language and Dress in the Same way, robes of the Skins
of wolves Deer, Elk, wild cat, or Loucirvia & fox, also Saw a mountain
Sheap Skin the wool of which is long, thick, & corse with long corse
hare on the top of the neck and back Something resembling bristles of a
goat, the skin was of white hare, those animals these people inform me
by Signs live in the mountains among the rocks, their horns are Small
and Streight, Orter Skins are highly prised among those people as well
as those on the river above, They Cue their hare which is divided on
each Sholder, and also ware Small Strips about their necks with the
tale hanging down in front.--Those people gave us, High bush cram
berries, bread made of roots, and roots; we purchased three dogs for
the party to eate; we Smoked with the men, all muche pleased with the
violin-. Here the mountains are high on each Side, those to the Lard.
Side has Some Snow on them at this time, more timber than above and of
greater variety.
[Clark, October 30, 1805]
October 30th Wednesday 1805 A Cloudy morning. Some little rain all
night, after eating a Slight brackfast of venison we Set out.
The rocks project into the river in maney places and have the
appearance of haveing fallen from the highe hills those projected rocks
is common & Small Bays below & nitches in the rocks passed 4 Cascades
or Small Streams falling from the mountains on Lard. This part of the
river resembles a pond partly dreaned leaving many Stumps bare both in
& out of the water, current about 1 mil pr. Hour
The bottom above the river is about 3/4 of a mile wide and rich, Some
deer & bear Sign--rained moderately all day we are wet and cold. Saw
Several Specis of wood which I never Saw before, Some resembling Beech
& others Poplar.--Day dark and disagreeable
I with 2 men proceeded down the river 2 miles on an old Indian parth to
view the rapids, which I found impassable for our canoes without a
portage, the roade bad at 1 mile I saw a Town of Houses laterly
abandoned on an elevated Situation opsd. a 2d Shute, returned at dark.
Capt. Lewis and 5 men went to the Town found them kind they gave Beries
& nuts, but he cd. get nothin from them in the way of Information, the
greater part of those people out collecting roots below, rained all the
evining Those people have one gun & maney articles which they have
purchased of the white people their food is principally fish
[Clark, October 30, 1805]
October 30th Wednesday 1805
A cool morning, a moderate rain all the last night, after eating a
partial brackfast of venison we Set out passed Several places where the
rocks projected into the river & have the appearance of haveing
Seperated from the mountains and fallen promiscuisly into the river,
Small nitches are formed in the banks below those projecting rocks
which is comon in this part of the river, Saw 4 Cascades caused by
Small Streams falling from the mountains on the Lard. Side, a
remarkable circumstance in this part of the river is, the Stumps of
pine trees are in maney places are at Some distance in the river, and
gives every appearance of the rivers being darned up below from Some
cause which I am not at this time acquainted with, the Current of the
river is also verry jentle not exceeding 11/2 mile pr. hour and about
3/4 of a mile in width. Some rain, we landed above the mouth of a Small
river on the Stard. Side and Dined J. Shields Killed a Buck & Labiech 3
Ducks, here the river widens to about one mile large Sand bar in the
middle, a Great rock both in and out of the water, large Stones, or
rocks are also permiscuisly Scattered about in the river, this day we
Saw Some fiew of the large Buzzard Capt. Lewis Shot at one, those
Buzzards are much larger than any other of ther Spece or the largest
Eagle white under part of their wings &c. The bottoms above the mouth
of this little river is rich covered with grass & firn & is about 3/4
of a mile wide rich and rises gradually, below the river (which is 60
yards wide above its mouth) the Countery rises with Steep assent. we
call this little river New Timbered river from a Speces of Ash which
grows on its banks of a verry large and different from any we had
before Seen, and a timber resembling the beech in bark but different in
its leaf which is Smaller and the tree smaller. passed maney large
rocks in the river and a large creek on the Stard. Side in the mouth of
which is an Island, passed on the right of 3 Islands near the Stard.
Side, and landed on an Island close under the Stard. Side at the head
of the great Shute, and a little below a village of 8 large houses on a
Deep bend on the Stard. Side, and opposit 2 Small Islands imediately in
the head of the Shute, which Islands are covered with Pine, maney large
rocks also, in the head of the Shute. Ponds back of the houses, and
Countrey low for a Short distance. The day proved Cloudy dark and
disagreeable with Some rain all day which kept us wet. The Countary a
high mountain on each Side thickly Covered with timber, Such as Spruc,
Pine, Cedar, Oake Cotton &c. &c. I took two men and walked down three
miles to examine the Shute and river below proceeded along an old
Indian path, passd. an old village at 1 mile on an ellevated Situation
of this village contained verry large houses built in a different form
from any I had Seen, and laterly abandoned, and the most of the boads
put into a pond of water near the village, as I conceived to drown the
flees, which was emencely noumerous about the houses-. I found by
examonation that we must make a portage of the greater perpotion of our
Stores 21/2 miles, and the Canoes we Could haul over the rocks, I
returned at Dark Capt Lewis and 5 men had just returned from the
village, Cap L. informed me that he found the nativs kind, they gave
him berries, nuts & fish to eate; but he could get nothing from them in
the way of information. The greater part of the inhabitants of this
village being absent down the river Some distance Colecting roots Capt.
L. Saw one gun and Several articles which must have been precured from
the white people. a wet disagreeable evening, the only wood we could
get to burn on this little Island on which we have encamped is the
newly discovered Ash, which makes a tolerable fire. we made fifteen
miles to daye.
[Clark, October 31, 1805]
October 31st Thursday 1805
a cloudey raney morning I proceed down the river to view it more at
leasure, I took Jos. Fields & Peter Crusat and proceeded on down, Send
Crusat back at 2 ms. to examine the rapid near the shore & I proceeded
on down about 10 miles to a very high rock in a bottom on the Stard.
opsd. 2 Islands covered with timber on which I saw Inds. at a distance;
found the river rocky for 6 miles, after which the Current became
uniform--at 1 mile I passed an old deserted village on a Pond on a high
Situation of 8 Houses--at 31/2 miles one house the only remt. of an
antient Village 1/2 a mile lower I saw 8 Vaults for the Dead which was
nearly Square 8 feet Closely Covered with broad boads Curiously
engraved, the bones in Some of those vaults wer 4 feet thick, in others
the Dead was yet layed Side of each other nearly East & west, raped up
& bound Securley in robes, great numbers of trinkets Brass Kittle, Sea
Shells, Iron, Pan Hare &c. &c. was hung about the vaults and great many
wooden gods, or Images of men Cut in wood, Set up round the vaults,
Some of those So old and worn by time that they were nearly worn out of
Shape, and Some of those vaults So old that they were roted entirely to
the ground--notwithstanding they wood is of Pine & _____ or Seder as
also the wooden gods
I can not learn certainly if those people worship those woden emiges,
they have them in conspicuous parts of their houses at 5 miles I passed
4 large houses on the Stard Side a little above the last rapid and
opposit a large Island which is Situated near the Lard. Side--The
enhabitents of those houses had left them closely Shut up, they
appeared to Contn. a great deel of property and Provisions Such as
those people use, I did not disturb any thing about those houses, but
proceed on down below the rapid which I found to be the last, a large
village has at Some period been on the Stard. Side below this rapid The
bottom is high Stoney and about 2 miles wide covered with grass, here C
is the head of a large Island in high water, at this time no water
passes on the Stard. Side I walked thro this Island which I found to be
verry rich, open & covered with Strawberry vines, and has greatly the
appearance of having at Some period been Cultivated, The natives has
dug roots in Some parts of this Isld. which is about 3 miles long & 1
Wide, a Small Island covered with timber opposit the lower point no
water runs on the Stard. Side. of it. below and in the middle of the
river is a large Island Covered with tall trees opposit the Strawberry
Island on its Stard. Side a creek falls in which has no running water
at present, it has the appearanc of throwing out emense torents--I saw
5 Indians in a canoe below--Jo. killed a Sand hill Crane & we returned
by the same rout to camp at the grand Shute where I found Several
Indians, I Smoked. Two canoes loaded with fish for the Trade below Came
down & unloaded the after noon fare
Those Indians Cut off the hands of those they kill & proserve the
fingers.
[Clark, October 31, 1805]
October 31st Thursday 1805
A Cloudy rainey disagreeable morning I proceeded down the river to view
with more attention we had to pass on the river below, the two men with
me Jo. Fields & Peter Crusat proceeded down to examine the rapids the
Great Shute which commenced at the Island on which we encamped Continud
with great rapidity and force thro a narrow chanel much compressd. and
interspersed with large rocks for 1/2 a mile, at a mile lower is a
verry Considerable rapid at which place the waves are remarkably high,
and proceeded on in a old Indian parth 21/2 miles by land thro a thick
wood & hill Side, to the river where the Indians make a portage, from
this place I dispatched Peter Crusat (our principal waterman) back to
follow the river and examine the practibility of the Canoes passing, as
the rapids appeared to continue down below as far as I could See, I
with Jo. Fields proceeded on, at 1/2 a mile below the end of the
portage passed a house where there had been an old town for ages past
as this house was old Decayed and a plat of flees I did not enter it,
about 1/2 a mile below this house in a verry thick part of the woods is
8 vaults which appeared Closely Covered and highly deckerated with
orniments. Those vaults are all nearly the Same Sise and form 8 feet
Square, 5 feet high, Sloped a little So as to convey off the rain made
of Pine or Cedar boards Closely Connected & Scurely Covered with wide
boards, with a Dore left in The East Side which is partially Stoped
with wide boards curiously engraved. In Several of those vaults the
dead bodies wre raped up verry Securely in Skins tied around with cords
of grass & bark, laid on a mat, all east & west and Some of those
vaults had as maney as 4 bodies laying on the Side of each other. the
other Vaults Containing bones only, Some contained bones for the debth
of 4 feet. on the tops and on poles attached to those vaults hung Brass
kitties & frying pans pearced thro their bottoms, baskets, bowls of
wood, Sea Shels, Skins, bits of Cloth, Hair, bags of Trinkets & Small
peices of bone &c and independant of the curious ingraveing and
Paintings on the boards which formed the vaults I observed Several
wooden Images, cut in the figure of men and Set up on the Sides of the
vaults all round. Some of those So old and worn by time, that they were
nearly out of Shape, I also observed the remains of Vaults rotted
entirely into the ground and covered with moss. This must bee the
burrying place for maney ages for the inhabitants of those rapids, the
vaults are of the most lasting timber Pine & Cedar--I cannot Say
certainly that those nativs worship those wooden idols as I have every
reason to believe they do not; as they are Set up in the most
conspicious parts of their houses, and treated more like orniments than
objects of aderation. at 2 miles lower & 5 below our Camp I passed a
village of 4 large houses abandend by the nativs, with their Bores
bared up, I looked into those houses and observed as much property as
is usial in the houses of those people which induced me to conclude
that they wre at no great distance, either hunting or Colecting roots,
to add to their winter Subsistance. from a Short distance below the
vaults the mountain which is but low on the Stard. Side leave the
river, and a leavel Stoney open bottom Suckceeds on the Said Std. Side
for a great Distance down, the mountains high and rugid on the Lard
Side this open bottom is about 2 miles a Short distance below this
village is a bad Stoney rapid and appears to be the last in view I
observed at this lower rapid the remains of a large and antient Village
which I could plainly trace by the Sinks in which they had formed their
houses, as also those in which they had buried their fish--from this
rapid to the lower end of the portage the river is Crouded with rocks
of various Sizes between which the water passes with great velociety
createing in maney places large Waves, an Island which is Situated near
the Lard. Side occupies about half the distance the lower point of
which is at this rapid. immediately below this rapid the high water
passes through a narrow Chanel through the Stard. Bottom forming an
Island of 3 miles Long & one wide, I walked through this Island which I
found to be verry rich land, and had every appearance of haveing been
at Some distant period Cultivated. at this time it is Covered with
grass intersperced with Strawberry vines. I observed Several places on
this Island where the nativs had dug for roots and from its lower point
I observed 5 Indians in a Canoe below the upper point of an Island near
the middle of the river Covered with tall timber, which indued me to
believe that a village was at no great distanc below, I could not See
any rapids below in the extent of my view which was for a long distance
down the river, which from the last rapids widened and had everry
appearance of being effected by the tide,--I deturmind to return to
Camp 10 miles distant, a remarkable high detached rock Stands in a
bottom on the Stard Side near the lower point of this Island on the
Stard. Side about 800 feet high and 400 paces around, we call the
Beaten rock. a Brook falls into the narrow Chanel which forms the
Strawberry Island, which at this time has no running water, but has
every appearance of dischargeing emence torrents &c. &c. Jo. Fields
Shot a Sand hill Crane. I returned by the Same rout on an Indian parth
passing up on the N W. Side of the river to our Camp at the Great
Shute. found Several Indians from the village, I Smoked with them; Soon
after my return two Canoes loaded with fish & Bear grass for the trade
below, came down,from the village at the mouth of the Catterack River,
they unloaded and turned their Canoes up Side down on the beech, &
camped under a Shelveing rock below our Camp
one of the men Shot a goose above this Great Shute, which was floating
into the Shute when an Indian observed it, plunged into the water &
Swam to the Goose and brought in on Shore, at the head of the Suck, as
this Indian richly earned the goose I Suffered him to keep it which he
about half picked and Spited it up with the guts in it to roste.
This Great Shute or falls is about 1/2 a mile with the water of this
great river Compressed within the Space of 150 paces in which there is
great numbers of both large and Small rocks, water passing with great
velocity forming & boiling in a most horriable manner, with a fall of
about 20 feet, below it widens to about 200 paces and current gentle
for a Short distance. a Short distance above is three Small rockey
Islands, and at the head of those falls, three Small rockey Islands are
Situated Crosswise the river, Several rocks above in the river & 4
large rocks in the head of the Shute; those obstructions together with
the high Stones which are continually brakeing loose from the mountain
on the Stard Side and roleing down into the Shute aded to those which
brake loose from those Islands above and lodge in the Shute, must be
the Cause of the rivers darning up to Such a distance above, where it
Shows Such evidant marks of the Common current of the river being much
lower than at the present day
[Clark, November 1, 1805]
November 1st Friday 1805
a verry cold morning wind from N. E and hard Set all hands packing the
loading over th portage which is below the Grand Shutes and is 940
yards of bad way over rocks & on Slipery hill Sides The Indians who
came down in 2 Canoes last night packed their fish over a portage of
21/2 miles to avoid a 2d Shute. four of them took their canoes over the
1st portage and run the 2d Shute, Great numbers of Sea otters, they are
So Cautious that I with deficuelty got a Shute at one to day, which I
must have killed but Could not get him as he Sunk
We got all our Canoes and baggage below the Great Shute 3 of the canoes
being Leakey from injures recved in hauling them over the rocks,
obliged us to delay to have them repaired a bad rapid just below us
three Indian canoes loaded with pounded fish for the &c. trade down the
river arrived at the upper end of the portage this evening. I Can't
lern whether those Indians trade with white people or Inds. below for
the Beeds & copper, which they are So fond of--They are nearly necked,
prefuring beeds to anything--Those Beeds they trafick with Indians
Still higher up this river for Skins robes &c. &c. The Indians on those
waters do not appear to be Sickly, Sore eyes are Common and maney have
lost their eyes, Some one and, maney both, they have bad teeth, and the
greater perpotion of them have worn their teeth down, maney into the
gums, They are rather Small high Cheeks, women Small and homely, maney
of them had Sweled legs, large about the knees,-owing to the position
in which they Set on their hams, They are nearly necked only a piece of
leather tied about their breech and a Small robe which generally comes
to a little below their wastes and Scercely Sufficely large to cover
arround them when confined--they are all fond of Clothes but more So of
Beeds perticularly blue & white beeds. They are durty in the extreme
both in their Coockery and in their houses.
Those at the last Village raise the beads about five feet from the
earth-under which they Store their Provisions--Their houses is about 33
feet to 50 feet Square, the Bore of which is about 30 Inc. high and 16
Inches wide in this form cut in a wide pine board they have maney
imeges Cut in wood, generally, in the figure of a man--Those people are
high with what they have to Sell, and Say the white people below Give
them great Prices for what they Sell to them. Their nose are all
Pierced, and the wear a white Shell maney of which are 2 Inch long
pushed thro the nose--all the women have flat heads pressed to almost a
point at top The press the female childrens heads between 2 bords when
young-untill they form the Skul as they wish it which is generally
verry flat. This amongst those people is considered as a great mark of
butyand is practised in all the tribes we have passed on this river
more or less. men take more of the drugery off the women than is common
with Indians
[Clark, November 1, 1805]
November 1st Friday 1805
A verry Cool morning wind hard from the N. E. The Indians who arrived
last evining took their Canoes on ther Sholders and Carried them below
the Great Shute, we Set about takeing our Small Canoe and all the
baggage by land 940 yards of bad Slippery and rockey way The Indians we
discoverd took ther loading the whole length of the portage 21/2 miles,
to avoid a Second Shute which appears verry bad to pass, and thro which
they passed with their empty canoes. Great numbers of Sea Otters, they
are So cautious that I with dificuelty got a Shot at one to day, which
I must have killed, but could not get him as he Sunk
we got all our baggage over the Portage of 940 yards, after which we
got the 4 large Canoes over by Slipping them over the rocks on poles
placed across from one rock to another, and at Some places along
partial Streams of the river. in passing those canoes over the rocks
&c. three of them recived injuries which obliged us to delay to have
them repared.
Several Indian Canoes arrived at the head of the portage, Some of the
men accompanied by those from the village came down to Smoke with us,
they appear to Speak the Same language with a little different axcent
I visited the Indian Village found that the Construction of the houses
Similar to those abov described, with this difference only that they
are larger Say from 35 to 50 feet by 30 feet, raised about 5 feet above
the earth, and nearly as much below The Dores in the Same form and Size
cut in the wide post which Supports one end of the ridge pole and which
is carved and painted with different figures & Hieroglyphics Those
people gave me to eate nuts berries & a little dried fish, and Sold me
a hat of ther own taste without a brim, and baskets in which they hold
their water--Their beads are raised about 41/2 feet, under which they
Store away their dried fish, between the part on which they lie and the
back wall they Store away their roots burries nuts and valuable
articles on mats, which are Spread also around the fire place which is
Sunk about one foot lower than the bottom fore of the house, this fire
place is about 8 feet long and Six feet wide Secured with a fraim those
houses are calculated for 4, 5 & 6 families, each familey haveing a
nice painted ladder to assend up to their beads. I Saw in those houses
Several wooden Images all cut in imitation of men, but differently
fasioned and placed in the most conspicious parts of the houses,
probably as an orniment I cannot lern certainly as to the traffick
those Inds. carry on below, if white people or the indians who trade
with the Whites who are either Settled or visit the mouth of this
river. I believe mostly with the latter as their knowledge of the white
people appears to be verry imperfect, and the articles which they
appear to trade mostly i e Pounded fish, Beargrass, and roots; cannot
be an object of comerce with furin merchants--however they git in
return for those articles Blue and white beeds copper Tea Kitties,
brass arm bands, some Scarlet and blue robes and a fiew articles of old
clothes, they prefer beeds to any thing and will part with the last
mouthfull or articles of clothing they have for a fiew of those beeds,
those beeds the trafick with Indians Still higher up this river for
roabs, Skins, cha-pel-el bread, beargrass &c. who in their turn trafick
with those under the rockey mountains for Beargrass, Pashico roots &
robes &c.
The nativs of the waters of the Columbia appear helthy, Some have
turners on different parts of their bodies, and Sore and weak Eyes are
common, maney have lost their Sight entirely great numbers with one eye
out and frequently the other verry weak; This misfortune I must again
asscribe to the water &c. They have bad teeth, which is not common with
indians, maney have worn their teeth down and Some quite into their
gums, this I cannot Satisfactorily account for it, do ascribe it in
some measure to their method of eateing, their food, roots pertiularly,
which they make use of as they are taken out of the earth frequently
nearly covered with Sand, I have not Seen any of their long roots
offered for Sale clear of Sand. They are rether below the Common Size
high cheeks womin Small and homely, and have Swelled legs and thighs,
and their knees remarkably large which I ascribe to the method in which
they Sit on their hams-go nearly necked wareing only a piece of leather
tied about their breast which falls down nearly as low as the waste, a
Small roabe about 3 feet Square, and a piece of leather tied about
their breach, They have all flat heads in this quarter They are tirty
in the extream, both in their person and cooking, ware their hare loose
hanging in every direction. They asc high prices for what they Sell and
Say that the white people below give great prices for every thing &c.
The noses are all pierced and when they are dressed they have a long
tapered piece of white shell or wampum put through the nose, Those
Shells are about 2 inches in length. I observed in maney of the
villeages which I have passed, the heads of the female children in the
press for the purpose of compressing their heads in their infancy into
a certain form, between two boards
[Clark, November 2, 1805]
Novr. 2d Saturday 1805
Meridian altitude 59° 45' 45" made a portage of about 11/2 miles with
half of the Baggage, and run the rapid with the Canoes without much
damage, one Struck a rock & Split a little, and 3 others took in Some
water 7 Squars Came over the portage loaded with Dried fish &
Beargrass, Soon after 4 men Came down in a Canoe after takeing
brackfast, & after taking a meridian altitude we Set out Passed 2 bad
rapids one at 2 & the other at 4 mile below the Isd on Lard. and upper
end of Strawberry Island on the Stard. Side from the Creek end of last
Course
We Labiech killed 14 Geese & a Brant, Collins one Jos. Fields & R 3
those gees are much Smaller than Common, and have white under their
rumps & around the tale, The tide rises here a fiew 9 Inches, I cannot
assertain the prosise hite it rises at the last rapid or at this
placeof Camp.
The Indians we left at the portage passed us this evening one other
Canoe Come up
[Clark, November 2, 1805]
November 2nd Saturday 1805
Examined the rapid below us more pertcelarly the danger appearing too
great to Hazzard our Canoes loaded, dispatched all the men who could
not Swim with loads to the end of the portage below, I also walked to
the end of the portage with the carriers where I delayed untill everry
articles was brought over and canoes arrived Safe. here we brackfast
and took a Meridn. altitude 59°45'45" about the time we were Setting out
7 Squars came over loaded with Dried fish, and bear grass neetly
bundled up, Soon after 4 Indian men came down over the rapid in a large
canoe. passed a rapid at 2 miles & 1 at 4 miles opposit the lower point
of a high Island on the Lard Side, and a little below 4 Houses on the
Stard. Bank, a Small Creek on the Lard Side opposit Straw berry Island,
which heads below the last rapid, opposit the lower point of this
Island passed three Islands covered with tall timber opposit the Beatin
rock Those Islands are nearest the Starboard Side, imediately below on
the Stard. Side passed a village of nine houses, which is Situated
between 2 Small Creeks, and are of the Same construction of those
above; here the river widens to near a mile, and the bottoms are more
extensive and thickly timbered, as also the high mountains on each
Side, with Pine, Spruce pine, Cotton wood, a Species of ash, and alder.
at 17 miles passed a rock near the middle of the river, about 100 feet
high and 80 feet Diamuter, proceed on down a Smoth gentle Stream of
about 2 miles wide, in which the tide has its effect as high as the
Beaten rock or the Last rapids at Strawberry Island,--Saw great numbers
of waterfowl of Different kinds, Such as Swan, Geese, white & grey
brants, ducks of various kinds, Guls, & Pleaver. Labeach killed 14
brantjoseph Fields 3 & Collins one. we encamped under a high projecting
rock on the Lard. Side, here the mountains leave the river on each
Side, which from the great Shute to this place is high and rugid;
thickly Covered with timber principalley of the Pine Species. The
bottoms below appear extensive and thickly Covered with wood. river
here about 21/2 miles wide. Seven Indians in a Canoe on their way down
to trade with the nativs below, encamp with us, those we left at the
portage passed us this evening and proceeded on down The ebb tide rose
here about 9 Inches, the flood tide must rise here much higher--we made
29 miles to day from the Great Shute-
[Clark, November 3, 1805]
November 3rd Sunday 1805
The fog So thick this morning we did not think it prudent to Set out
untill 10 oClock we Set out and proceeded on verry well, accompanied by
our Indian friends--This morning Labich killed 3 Geese flying Collins
killed a Duck--The water rose Inches last night the effects of tide.
The Countrey has a handsom appearance in advance no mountains extensive
bottoms--the water Shallow for a great distance from Shore-. The fog
continued thick untill 12 oClock, we Coasted, and halted at the mouth
of a large river on the Lard Side, This river throws out emence quanty
of Sand and is verry Shallow, th narrowest part 200 yards wide bold
Current, much resembling the river Plat, Several Islands about 1 mile
up and has a Sand bar of 3 miles in extent imedeately in its mouth,
discharging it waters by 2 mouths, and Crowding its Corse Sands So as
to throw the Columbian waters on its Nothern banks, & confdg it to 1/2
ms. in width Passed a Small Prarie on the Stard. Side above, a large
Creek opposit qk Sand River on the Stard. Side, extensive bottoms and
low hilley Countrey on each Side (good wintering Place) a high peaked
mountain Suppose to be Mt. Hood is on the Lard Side S. 85 E. 40 miles
distant from the mouth of quick Sand river.-
[Clark, November 3, 1805]
November 3rd Sunday 1805
The Fog So thick this morning that we could not See a man 50 Steps off,
this fog detained us untill 10 oClock at which time we Set out,
accompanied by our Indian friends who are from a village near the great
falls, previous to our Setting out Collins killed a large Buck, and
Labiech killed 3 Geese flying. I walked on the Sand beech Lard. Side,
opposit the canoes as they passed allong. The under groth rushes, vines
&c. in the bottoms too thick to pass through, at 3 miles I arrived at
the enterance of a river which appeared to Scatter over a Sand bar, the
bottom of which I could See quite across and did not appear to be 4
Inches deep in any part; I attempted to wade this Stream and to my
astonishment found the bottom a quick Sand, and impassable--I called to
the Canoes to put to Shore, I got into the Canoe and landed below the
mouth, & Capt Lewis and my Self walked up this river about 11/2 miles
to examine this river which we found to be a verry Considerable Stream
Dischargeing its waters through 2 Chanels which forms an Island of
about 3 miles in length on the river and 11/2 miles wide, composed of
Corse Sand which is thrown out of this quick Sand river Compressing the
waters of the Columbia and throwing the whole Current of its waters
against its Northern banks, within a Chanel of 1/2 a mile wide, Several
Small Islands 1 mile up this river, This Stream has much the appearance
of the River Plait; roleing its quick Sands into the bottoms with great
velocity after which it is divided into 2 Chanels by a large Sand bar
before mentioned, the narrowest part of this River is 120 yards-on the
Opposit Side of the Columbia a falls in above this Creek on the Same
Side is a Small prarie. extensive low country on each Side thickly
timbered.
The Quick Sand river appears to pass through the low countrey at the
foot of those high range of mountains in a Southerly direction,--The
large Creeks which fall into the Columbia on the Stard. Side rise in
the Same range of mountains to the N. N. E. and pass through Some
ridgey land--A Mountain which we Suppose to be Mt. Hood is S. 85 E
about 47 miles distant from the mouth of quick sand river This mtn. is
Covered with Snow and in the range of mountains which we have passed
through and is of a Conical form but rugid--after takeing dinner at the
mouth of this river we proceeded on passed the head of a Island near
the lard Side back of which on the Same Side and near the head a large
Creek falls in, and nearly opposit & 3 miles below the upper mouth of
quick Sand river is the lower mouth, This Island is 31/2 miles long,
has rocks at the upper point, Some timber on the borders of this Island
in the middle open and ponney. Some rugid rocks in the middle of the
Stream opposit this Island. proceeded in to Center of a large Island in
the middle of the river which we call Dimond Isld. from its appearance,
here we met 15 Indn men in 2 canoes from below, they informed us they
Saw 3 vestles below &c. &c. we landed on the North Side of this Dimond
Island and Encamped, Capt. L walked out with his gun on the Island,
Sent out hunters & fowlers--below quick Sand River the Countrey is low
rich and thickly timbered on each Side of the river, the Islands open &
Some ponds river wide and emence numbers of fowls flying in every
direction Such as Swan, geese, Brants, Cranes, Stalks, white guls,
comerants & plevers &c. also great numbers of Sea Otter in the river--a
Canoe arrived from the village below the last rapid with a man his wife
and 3 children, and a woman whome had been taken prisoner from the
Snake Inds. on Clarks River I Sent the Interpreters wife who is a So So
ne or Snake Indian of the Missouri, to Speake to this Squar, they Could
not understand each other Sufficiently to Converse. This familey and
the Inds. we met from below continued with us Capt Lewis borrowed a
Small Canoe of those Indians & 4 men took her across to a Small lake in
the Isld. Cap L. and 3 men Set out after night in this Canoe in Serch
of the Swans, Brants Ducks &c. &c. which appeared in great numbers in
the Lake, he Killed a Swan and Several Ducks which made our number of
fowls this evening 3 Swan, 8 brant and 5 Ducks, on which we made a
Sumptious Supper. We gave the Indian-who lent the Canoe a brant, and
Some meat to the others. one of those Indians, the man from the village
near the lower Rapids has a gun with a brass barrel & Cock of which he
prises highly--note the mountain we Saw from near the forks proves to
be Mount Hood
[Clark, November 4, 1805]
Novr. 4th Monday 1805 A Cloudy Cool morning, wind West, we Set out at
1/2 past 8 oClock having dispatched 4 men in the Small canoe to hunt
(Those people men & women heads are flat)
We landed at a village 200 men of Flatheads of 25 houses 50 canoes
built of Straw, we were treated verry kindly by them, they gave us
round root near the Size of a hens egg roasted which they call Wap-to
to eate
I walked out on the Stard. Side found the country fine, an open Prarie
for 1 mile back of which the wood land comence riseing back, the timber
on the edge of the Prarie is white oke, back is Spruce pine & other
Species of Pine mixed Some under groth of a wild crab & a Specis of
wood I'm not acquainted, a Specis of maple & Cotton wood grow near this
river, Some low bushes
Indians continue to be with us, Several Canoes Continue with us, The
Indians at the last village have more Cloth and uriopian trinkets than
above I Saw Some Guns, a Sword, maney Powder flasks, Salers jackets,
overalls, hats & Shirts, Copper and Brass trinkets with few Beeds only.
dureing the time I was at Dinner the Indians Stold my tomahawk which I
made use of to Smoke I Serched but Could not find it, a Pond on the
Stard Side, off from the river. Raspberries and ____ are also in the
bottoms--met a large and Small canoe with 12 men from below the men
were dressed with a variety of articles of European manufactory the
large Canoe had emeges on the bow & Stern handsomly Carved in wood &
painted with the figur of a Bear in front & man in a Stern. Saw white
geese with black wings--Saw a Small Crab-apple with all the taste &
flavor of the Common--Those Indians were all armed with Pistols or bows
and arrows ready Sprung war axes &c.
Mount Hellen bears N. 25° E about 80 miles, this is the mountain we Saw
near the foks of this river. it is emensely high and covered with Snow,
riseing in a kind of Cone perhaps the highest pinecal from the common
leavel in america passed a village of 4 hs. on the Stard Side at 2
mils, one at 3 mls.