Glover's. Mr. Wood has opened 50 or more graves and found some relics.
Flint arrows, spears, knives, drills, hoes, spades, and celts, not to
mention unfinished pieces, have been found by the thousand on the
surface within a mile radius of these cemeteries.
It would seem useless to make any further examination of the level
limestone region of central or southern Kentucky. Nearly all the minor
drainage is underground, and most of the caves have inlets through
sink holes or in small crevices. The water supply is scanty except
along streams, and in such situations the caves are usually, for
various reasons, of such character as to preclude a continuous
occupation, or one extending to a very ancient date. Search is more
likely to be rewarded in the mountains where an ample water supply is
always at hand.
* * *
TENNESSEE
MONTGOMERY COUNTY
DUNBAR'S CAVE.--Three miles east of Clarksville a large cave has been
fitted up as a summer resort. The earth has been leveled around the
entrance, both inside and outside, floors laid for picnics and other
gatherings, booths, refreshment stands, and places of amusement
erected and the surrounding grounds somewhat improved. On account of
all this, the place has become quite noted. At present there is from
15 to 20 feet of loose stones and earth on the solid rock floor, and a
strong stream makes its way beneath them. It could never have been
occupied in prehistoric times until the débris had practically reached
the stage at which it was found by the whites.
INDIAN MOUND CAVE.--A report was received to the effect that the mouth
of a cave on the Stewart County line, about 18 miles west of
Clarksville, had been closed by a rock wall, and earth piled against
the outside of the wall; also, that tool marks are quite distinct in a
chamber which is plainly of artificial origin.
The rock wall is the stratified rock, in place; the earth in front has
washed down from the hillside; the tool marks are water channelings;
and other remarkable things mentioned in the report are equally
natural. The entrance is a narrow crevice.
SULLIVAN COUNTY
LINVILLE CAVE.--This is 4 miles almost directly west of Bluff City.
Apparently it is of great extent, for large sink holes connected with
it are scattered over an area of several hundred acres. There are
three principal openings. The largest is near the top of a knoll or
low hill, and is due to the falling in of the roof. The sunken part
has an area of about 30 by 60 feet. Usually, in such cases, the débris
entirely fills one end of the cavity thus made, obscuring that part of
the cavern, the other end being kept open by surface drainage. In this
case, owing to the dip of the strata--some 8 or 10 degrees--and to a
change in direction of the cavern at this point, both ends may be
entered from the fallen rocks and earth. At one side the descent is
precipitous and winding, over and among large fallen rocks. No level
place is reached in daylight. At the other side the descent follows
the natural dip of the strata and no level space can be found from
which the entrance is visible. This part, also, is filled with rocks,
large and small, from the roof and sides, and was never habitable.
Fifty yards from the main entrance is another much smaller cave, on
the slope of the knoll. It is at the bottom of a crevice 10 feet deep.
The floor is level, but only a few square yards in extent, the sloping
roof reaching it within 10 feet. As there is considerable drainage
into the cavity from the hillside, it is probable that this floor, at
least the upper portion, is of recent origin, and that the earth
extends downward indefinitely toward the subterranean stream.
West of the knoll on which these openings are found is a valley 2 or 3
miles long. Timber shuts off the view toward its head. This is
drained by a constant stream which after winding from side to side of
the little vale flows under the knoll. The hole where it disappears is
small, but as no rock floor is visible it may lead into a large
cavern, and there is no doubt that all the sink holes in the vicinity
as well as the two openings above described eventually have the same
outlet. Excavations would be difficult and useless.
THOMAS CAVE.--In the face of a steep hillside, near the south (left)
bank of the Holston, 3 miles east of Bluff City, is a room with a
nearly level floor 10 by 18 feet in the longest measurements. A narrow
passage, high enough for a man to walk in, branches off to the right
but soon begins to diminish in size and at 100 feet becomes too small
to crawl through. The débris in front of the cave is piled to a height
of 16 feet above the present floor, and the highest floods of the
river reach to about the same level on the outside. The rapid
disappearance of the surface water which finds its way in indicates an
underground passage to the river, so that a solid floor would not
probably be reached above the ordinary water level.
ARKLOW CAVE.--This is a mile and a half southeast of Bluff City. It
was reported to have a level earth floor, not more than 4 feet below
the accumulation outside. While this was formerly the case,
cultivation of the hills around now causes a great amount of surface
water to flow over the little bluff into which the cave opens, and
this has carried nearly all of the loose earth away through some
underground channel. The descent for upward of 30 feet is steep and
rugged; it was not traced farther.
MORRELL CAVE.--On the south side of the Holston River, 2½ miles east
of Bluff City, lies the farm of E.S. Worley. Except for a narrow strip
of river bottom land, the surface is broken and rocky, the highest
point being some 400 feet above the stream. Beginning near the brow of
the river hill the central portion of the farm is in a depression
whose very irregular rim or watershed surrounds an area of more than
100 acres. All the water that falls within this space drains into a
sink hole the bottom of which is but little above flood stage of the
Holston. On the south side of this sink is a vertical bluff 120 feet
high, from whose foot emerges a stream that after a winding course of
50 or 60 yards disappears in a small opening on the east side of the
sink hole, and finally comes to the surface at the foot of the hill,
near the river. Its volume is sufficient, even in time of severest
drought, to turn the undershot wheel of a large mill. The course of
the stream above the point where it is first visible is through a cave
which has been traced to the foot of the Holston Mountains, 3 miles
away, and there are many unexplored branches. Chambers are known with
a cross measure of 100 feet or more, and some of them have a height
nearly as great. Stalactites and stalagmites, some of them possessing
unusual size and beauty, are abundant.
The sink hole is due to the falling in of the roof of the cave, which
could no doubt be followed to the river if it were free from
obstructions in this direction.
North of west from the mouth of the cave is another opening, partly in
the same strata but 40 feet higher, the dip of the rock being 10 or 12
degrees to the southeast. This was so blocked with talus which had
fallen from the cliff and washed down the side of the sink hole that
it was necessary to creep nearly 40 feet from the entrance, down a
moderate slope, before coming to a point where it was possible to
stand upright. From here progress to the junction of the two caves,
about half a mile from the entrance, is easy except where fallen rocks
interfere somewhat.
Early in the Civil War a large amount of saltpeter was manufactured
here. A dam was constructed just within the mouth of the main cave,
and in the pool thus formed boats were used to transport the material
from the interior. The workmen not required for handling the craft
usually preferred to walk through the upper cave to the place where
the earth was procured.
The combination of natural features at this place is unusually
favorable to aboriginal habitation. The main cave is excluded from
consideration by reason of the stream filling it from wall to wall
after very heavy rains. The upper cave, however, showed, beyond the
débris choking the entrance, a level floor, cumbered, it is true, by
fallen rocks, but apparently quite suitable for a dwelling place were
these removed. Although opening toward the north, its position so far
below the summits of the surrounding hills protects it from winter
winds. The creek assures an ample supply of clear cold water.
Mountains, refuge for game, are in sight in various directions, while
the Holston River is less than a quarter of a mile away.
In order to remove the débris a point 3 feet below the lowest spot on
the floor was selected on the slope outside. From here a trench was
carried in on a level, the additional depth being taken to facilitate
clearing away all material that had accumulated inside the cavern in
comparatively recent time, and thus lighten the task of deeper
excavations should these be required. The trench needed to be only
wide enough at the bottom to allow room for running a wheelbarrow, but
owing to the great amount of broken rock, loosely held together by a
small quantity of earth, the sides continually gave way, so that by
the time it was safe to pass through the trench was 25 feet wide at
the top and 24 feet deep at the mouth of the cave. The rocks were of
every size from small pebbles to blocks weighing more than a ton each.
Nothing whatever of artificial character, not even a flint chip or
fragment of charcoal, was unearthed until at a point 4 feet inside the
farthest projecting stratum of the roof. Here was found a prehistoric
stone wall whose outer side and top had been entirely concealed by
débris. On the inner side the upper portion was visible, owing to the
fact that the owner had gathered a quantity of loose stones to
construct a wall farther down the slope. Previous to this the ancient
wall was entirely covered by the detritus, and even after this partial
exposure its true nature was not suspected. It was about 6 feet high,
built up of rocks of various sizes and shapes loosely fitted together,
earth from the outside surface being used to level up in places where
the stones would not bind properly. The largest rock in the top layer
weighed about 800 pounds.
The horizontal distance between the top of the wall as it was when
cleared off and the corresponding portion of the cave roof was 4 feet;
to the roof directly above it, about 2 feet. Apparently it had at one
time entirely closed the entrance; at the western end where it abutted
against the solid rock the upper portion was firmly consolidated by
travertine. Directly above it, nearly 2 feet higher, a slab and some
small irregular fragments were securely attached to the side and roof
by the same agency. A crevice in the bedrock just at the end of the
artificial wall contained several wagonloads of small rocks which had
been thrown into it. These also were united into a solid mass by the
travertine, all of which had been deposited by water flowing through
the crevice. It does not follow that the wall was ever higher toward
the opposite end than at this time. In the centuries that have elapsed
since it was put up, the roof at the front of the cave, being rather
thin-bedded, may have disintegrated. It was not possible to uncover
the wall in shape for illustrating; portions of it continually
crumbled as the looser material piled against it was removed.
From the wall inward the foreign material piled against the west side
of the cave was composed almost entirely of small rocks, with scarcely
any earth, and so compactly bound with travertine and stalagmite as to
resist all attempts to remove it by ordinary means. On the east
side--the left as the cave is entered--there was a great variation in
the size of the stones; they were intermixed with much loose dry
earth, and there was scarcely any "drip-formation" in the mass. The
removal of all this disclosed a projection of solid rock forming a
shelf from 8 to 12 feet wide, whose top was about 2 feet higher than
the bottom of our trench. About 20 feet from the ancient wall the
trench reached the original bottom of the cave as the latter was left
by the stream to which its origin was due. This was the tough red or
yellow clay, filled with water-worn stones such as appear in all
gullies or ravines in this region. It contained a small quantity of
stalagmitic material here and there and gradually rose until at 20
feet farther, or 40 feet from the old wall, it terminated against
solid bedrock, reaching across the cave, the entire width of which at
this point was 26 feet. The shelf on the left belonged to the same
stratum.
This brought the work to the terminus that had been the aim from the
first, namely, the lowest level of the floor, which was thus shown to
be only a foot above the solid rock instead of at least 10 or 12 feet
as the general appearance of the entrance and its surroundings had
indicated. It was completely cleaned off as far as this was possible,
but within 3 feet of the end of the trench began a mass several feet
in thickness of fragmentary rocks of every size up to 20 tons or more
which had fallen from the roof and were bound together by stalagmite.
Altogether, more than 300 cubic yards of material were removed. The
workmen had been carefully instructed as to what the search was for,
and kept a close lookout, as evidenced by the very small objects they
were continually offering for inspection. It is safe to say that not a
spadeful of earth missed scrutiny; but, aside from the artificial
wall, the only traces of human presence were three valves of mussels,
a turkey bone rudely pointed for use as a perforator, and three or
four bones which seem to have been subjected to fire. Not a chip of
flint or other stone showing work, no ashes or charcoal, not a piece
of pottery, were discovered. If aboriginal burials were made in the
cave--and the wall is almost definite proof of such fact--they are
either on the floor under stalagmite or in crevices now concealed by
fallen rocks.
Numerous small fragments of animal bones were found scattered singly
at all depths in the material removed. Nearly every one showed marks
of the teeth of rodents. According to Prof. F.A. Lucas, of the
National Museum, they all belong to modern species except one tooth,
which is that of the cave tapir, and (possibly) the jaw of an otter.
BLEDSOE COUNTY
COLLEGE CAVE.--About three-fourths of a mile west from the old
Sequatchie College is a cave which was described as the largest in the
county, and as the only one in which people might ever have lived. The
opening is about 5 feet wide and 4 feet high; and from it comes a
stream sufficient to run a mill.
No other caves could be located in this county or in the Sequatchie
Valley north of it.
SEQUATCHIE COUNTY
LAKEY'S CAVE.--In the foothills of the Cumberland Plateau, about 5
miles southeast of Dunlap, the county seat, is the largest cave in the
county. A great quantity of earth and rock has accumulated in front of
the entrance, washed from the mountain side over an area of several
acres. Formerly most of the surface drainage carrying this down flowed
into the cave, thus keeping a passageway open through which a man
could crawl. Ditches have recently been cut to turn away the water,
the entrance walled up, a solid door hung, and the cave is now used
for a storeroom. It was never habitable.
A mile north of the above-mentioned cave, toward Dunlap, is a cave
with a very large entrance: a sort of rock-house or half dome. The
floor is covered with huge rocks and a constant stream flows out. It
is said that a party once entered Lakey's Cave and emerged at this
one. There is no dry place in it.
PICKETT'S CAVE.--Seven miles southwest of Dunlap is a cave, described
as having an ample entrance, with much room inside, perfectly dry, and
opening in a cliff 20 or 30 feet above a large, never-failing spring.
The description is correct as to location, but not as to size. The
opening is about 4 feet across each way, with a slight covering of
earth on the floor. The cave winds like a flattened corkscrew. At no
place near enough to the mouth for a glimmer of light to penetrate is
the roof more than 5 feet above the floor or the side walls more than
5 feet apart.
There are two recesses in the cliff on the opposite side of the little
creek formed by the spring. They are 40 to 50 feet above the water,
each with an irregular floor of 20 by 30 feet under shelter of the
rock. No solid rock is visible in front of them, but a projecting
ledge, which seems continuous, appears on either side about 6 feet
below the present average level of the floor; and this is probably the
depth of accumulation at the front. It may be less toward the rear.
The cavities are in a stratum which is somewhat shelly and crumbles
easily.
HIXSON'S CAVE.--Six miles northeast of Dunlap is a cave said to be
large, accessible, dry, and well suited for occupancy. It is on the
side of Walden's ridge, 400 feet or more above the base, a mile from
water, and with an opening in the solid rock that can not be entered
except on hands and knees. By the time one can straighten up he is in
absolute darkness.
LAND COMPANY'S CAVE.--This is 7 miles northeast of Dunlap. To enter,
one must crawl between the rock front and the detritus, descending 10
or 12 feet. The floor is fairly level, where it can be found, but is
nearly hidden from sight by rocks of all sizes, over and between which
it is necessary to scramble almost from the starting point.
HENSON'S CAVE.--This cave, 9 or 10 miles northeast from Dunlap, and
perhaps in Bledsoe County, is somewhere on Raccoon Mountains, near the
head of a valley up which a mountain road winds along in the bed of a
stream. It is said to have a dry dirt floor, with an entrance through
which one must crawl. After driving until the horses were tired out
and being assured at several scattered cabins that it was "jest a
leetle mite furder up thar," search for it was abandoned.
GRUNDY COUNTY
HUBLIN'S OR BAT CAVE.--Numerous caves and rock-shelters are reported
in the region about Beersheba Springs. The shelters seem to be shallow
with comparatively little earth on the floor. Of the caves, the
description given of all but the one named was such as to show them
not worth visiting. It is about 10 miles northwest of the springs. Its
course is approximately parallel with the mountain ridge, passing
under two low foothills or spurs separated by a ravine. When the
stream flowing through the latter had cut its channel down to the top
of the cave it poured into the hole it had worn. Frost and the natural
erosion have made an opening more than 60 feet long. Both parts of the
cave remain open, being too large at this point to become choked by
the small amount of material which the brook had left as a roof. In
some places, so far as it was examined, the ceiling is 50 feet or more
above the rocks covering the floor; and one end, that into which the
ravine drains, has a continuous and rather steep descent, along the
natural dip, as far as it could be followed. Where the exploration
ended logs, drift, brush, etc., piled 10 or 12 feet high against huge
rocks that had tumbled down, proved a current strong enough to wash
away any deposits that may ever have existed; consequently the only
earth in this end was that brought by floods.
The other end of the cave is large, with an entrance of such size that
small print could easily be read 100 feet from the front if the broad
fence across it were removed. This fence was made to close the cave
against changes of temperature and also against marauders, it having
been used until lately as a storage room for fruit, potatoes, etc.
During the Civil War it was worked for saltpeter. All the earth, down
to the rock floor, was removed, even in crevices only wide enough for
a man to squeeze through. An incline was built so that horses could be
brought into the cave, and no earth now remains within reach of
daylight. The rock floor is almost as clean as if swept.
Their exhaustive digging extended for about 200 yards from the
entrance. The "face" of the earth is here about 15 feet high; for some
reason, which could not be learned, the miners continued their work
from here by means of a tunnel 4 or 5 feet high and wide, leaving a
floor of earth, and a covering of the same nearly 6 feet thick. This
tunnel was not followed.
Near the entrance a crevice barely wide enough for a man to walk in
and in some places only 4 feet high turns off toward the left and
holds practically the same size for about 100 yards. Here it becomes
larger and higher. Earth has been carried out of this and its narrow
branches wherever there is room to use a shovel. In a large chamber
200 yards from the front, at the end of the crevice, much digging was
done; the "face" left is 13 or 14 feet high.
As far as the diggers went, there is nothing left to explore. Beyond
that it is not probable any remains can be found, as it is totally
dark long before any remaining earth is reached.
FRANKLIN COUNTY
Several caves were reported in the vicinity of Sewanee and Monteagle.
They are objects of curiosity to students and summer residents who
frequently visit and make tours through them. They have thus acquired
a fame much beyond what is justified by their real interest. They seem
to be wet, or with contracted entrances and front chambers, or
difficult of access, and, so far as could be judged by the
descriptions given, none of them is worth examining.
MARION COUNTY
ACCOUNT'S CAVES.--There are two of these, both with high and large
openings, on the right bank of the Tennessee, 2 miles above Shellmound
or Nickajack. One is in the face of the bluff, the entrance 50 feet
above the river bottom land. Huge rocks lie in front and over nearly
all the floor. Surface water flows in at the entrance and after
winding its crooked way among the rocks sinks at a point 25 or 30 feet
below the top of the débris in front of the entrance. This indicates
an open way to the river, so the bottom of the cave is probably down
nearly or quite to the water level.
The second cave is 100 yards above the first. A little stream, whose
head is in a valley, nearly a mile away, flows around the foot of the
bluff and into the mouth of the cave. When the Tennessee rises to
flood height the backwater comes into the bed of this stream through
the cave before submerging the low ridge between it and the river.
CALDWELL'S CAVE.--This is on the right bank of the Sequatchie River, a
mile above its junction with the Tennessee. It is said that formerly a
man could walk into it easily for 20 or 30 feet and then crawl 50 or
60 feet farther. This is probably an error of memory. By stooping one
can now go in about 10 feet from the edge of the roof, and with a pole
feel where the floor and roof come together, nowhere more than 10 or
12 feet beyond. It is said, also, that this accumulation results from
throwing in earth to prevent foxes from having a den in the cave. A
small hole might thus be closed, but it is too much to believe that
the people now living around here would carry in many hundred cubic
yards of earth for any such purpose.
Human bones are reported unearthed near the surface; at least bones of
some sort were found which the discoverers supposed were human.
The entrance to the cave is more than 25 feet in width, and about 25
feet above the flood plain of the Sequatchie, or only 15 feet above
extreme high water. It is in the only exposure of rock for nearly half
a mile along the bluff. On either side of the opening the walls are
solid, down to the alluvial earth, but in front of the cavity only
detritus can be seen from top to bottom. For this reason it is
improbable that any solid bottom could be found above the level of the
river. Much of the stone weathers out in small fragments, and the
process of disintegration is going on continually, as shown by the
fresh appearance of the sheltered fragments. How rapid or how regular
it may have been in former time is impossible to guess, so that
excavation, to be of any value, would have to begin at the bottom of
the slope, with the knowledge that the original floor of the cave may
be still lower.