one shallow and two deep circular depressions which were probably
mortars. Bones of deer, bear, and other animals have been found within
a foot or two of the surface both outside and inside of the cave.
Contrary to what is usual in sandstone cavities of this sort, the
outside earth slopes upward from the entrance and after heavy rains
considerable water flows into the cave. This makes the earth on the
floor quite sticky at times, although it is mainly sand, containing
very little clay.
The skeletons were found at a depth of about 16 inches, close to the
side wall. A small trench dug where they were unearthed showed, in
succession, a layer of ashes 4 or 5 inches thick and not more than 3
feet across, a foot below the surface of the floor; a few inches of
earth; a layer of ashes an inch thick, at two feet; below this,
yellowish undisturbed sand, apparently fallen from the sandstone roof,
and continuing to the rock floor, which was about 32 inches below the
top.
Another trench was dug about midway across the cave and the same
distance from the front as the skeletons were found. This was on or
close to the line of heaviest drainage into the cave and the earth was
so wet as to be very sticky. A few little patches of what appeared to
be ashes but which had not resulted from fires made on the spot, three
or four broken mussel shells, and a chip of flint were found in the
first 18 or 20 inches. More than this amount of earth could easily
have washed in since they were left here by modern Indians. Below this
level the earth contained not the slightest object of human origin, to
the rock floor which was found at a depth of 6 feet. On the rock was
nearly pure sand, probably the result of disintegration; some clay lay
on this; then the mixed loam, sand, and clay composing the outside
soil.
It would appear that this cave was utilized as a place of shelter at
irregular intervals by Indians in tolerably recent times; that at
least one of those found, perhaps all three, had died or been killed
during a somewhat protracted sojourn; and that only a slight covering
of earth, if any at all, had been placed over them.
Two similar caves are within 8 or 10 miles, but were not visited.
EDMONSON COUNTY
MAMMOTH CAVE.--For miles from the entrance saltpeter workers have dug
down to a level where the amount of loose rock rendered further
excavation too expensive. In many places walls of stone are piled
against the sides of the cavern. They were among the earth that was
removed and have been so piled to get them out of the way.
As far back as "Chief City," 3 miles from the mouth of the cave, the
floor is littered with fragments of canes (reeds) and saplings, which,
from the appearance of the ends, were broken, twisted, or bruised off
with blunt tools like stone hatchets. Most of those remaining are
lying on massive loose rocks now forming the floor, though the ends of
some are seen projecting from beneath stones much larger than two men
can lift. It is possible the latter have recently slid or slipped from
higher up the slopes, but the indications are that they have dropped
from the roof since the time of these early explorers. If this be the
case, it points to a considerable antiquity for the remains, because
no such downfalls are known to have occurred since the cave was first
explored by white men.
So much work has been done about the entrance of late years for
improving the approaches that excavation would be useless, even if
allowed, unless carried to a depth of more than 20 feet. Such work
would greatly interfere with the plans of the management.
WHITE'S CAVE.--This is about three-fourths of a mile from Mammoth
Cave. The entrance, quite small, is near the crest of a ridge, and the
floor descends abruptly. Only a narrow chamber exists within reach of
daylight, and the cave is wet all the time a short distance back.
COLOSSAL CAVE.--It is said to be 4 miles from Mammoth Cave, but is
really only a little more than 2 miles. The present entrance is
entirely artificial, the descent to the floor being about 120 feet.
The original entrance was in a crevice which explorers descended by
means of ropes. It is said that another entrance is known to one man
who, however, has to crawl a long distance.
SALT CAVE.--This is 4 miles from Mammoth Cave, though belonging to the
same company. The entrance is at the bottom of a conical sink hole
draining about an acre. Not much water runs into the cave from this
cause, as the surface slopes outward from the margin except on one
side, where a ridge leads to the hills. A spring which comes out near
the top of the sink falls over a ledge at the bottom into the
entrance to the cave. It is said that this water soaks into the ground
within a few rods and that just beyond are large, dry rooms, well
adapted for habitation, which formerly contained many evidences of
aboriginal occupation. Exploration is impossible now, as the entrance
was effectually closed some years ago by throwing in logs, brush,
rocks, and earth, in order to protect the formations from relic
hunters. The water from the spring falls directly on and flows into
this, and can not now be turned aside. Even if it could, all excavated
material would have to be carried up a steep slope and deposited in
the field surrounding the sink hole.
DIXON'S CAVE.--It is supposed, with good reason, that this was at one
time connected with Mammoth Cave. It can be easily entered, through a
large crevice, where the surface rock has fallen in. Approach to the
bottom is down a steep and rugged slope of about 60 feet vertically.
Within, no earth is visible, it having been entirely removed by
saltpeter miners, who left the rocks piled in great rows from side to
side across the cavern.
MAMMAL CAVE.--This is so named because a tusk was formerly exhibited
at the hotel which was reported to have come from here. It was
afterwards learned that the specimen was imported from another State.
The cave is small and damp, not suitable for living or even for
stopping in.
PROCTOR'S CAVE.--This is 6 miles from Mammoth Cave. The present
entrance is artificial and so far as could be learned the cave is a
recent discovery.
HAUNTED CAVE.--The name is given to commemorate the fact that human
bones were found in it. Physicians, it is said, pronounced them bones
of a white person. The cave, which is on Green River, some miles below
Mammoth Cave, was not visited, as the entrance is described as a
crevice through which a man has difficulty in squeezing his way, while
the interior is nowhere more than 8 feet wide. The cave soon connects
with another narrow vertical crevice which reaches the surface at the
top of a ridge.
BRIGGS'S CAVE.--About 6 miles west of Cave City, and 4 miles west of
north from Glasgow Junction, is a cave on land of Ike Briggs, which
was described as fit for habitation. Its entrance is in a small sink
hole, on a hillside. The approach is easy, and entry not difficult;
but the cave receives the drainage of several acres and the floor is
always muddy.
POYNER'S CAVE.--This is a mile east of Briggs's. While a large cave,
the entrance is at the foot of a sink hole an acre in area. It is
necessary to stoop for some distance on entering, and the bottom here
is rough and wet. Farther in it is dry and roomy--so much so, that
people in the neighborhood use one chamber as a "ballroom." This part
is some distance beyond daylight. As in all caves which are entered
from a sink, it would be very difficult to dispose of any excavated
earth, as it would have to be carried up the steep slope to the
outside.
SHORT CAVE.--Chaumont is a station on the road to Mammoth Cave, 3
miles from the Glasgow Junction. The cavern, which is so named from
its limited extent as compared with Mammoth, is a mile from the
station. The entrance, reached by a winding way along the ridges, is
on one side of an irregular depression comprising 3 or 4 acres. At
present there is a heavy bank of earth, several feet high, across the
entrance, nearly closing it to the top, except at the middle where a
wagon road has been cut through to allow fertilizers for mushroom beds
to be hauled in. This earth, so it is stated, was not there when the
cave was discovered, but has been carried from the interior partly by
saltpeter workers, and partly by the present owner in order to cover
up some rocks and to make the floor smooth and level. In front of the
cave and of the earth piled at the entrance is a level space of 25 or
30 feet to a deep sink hole. Some water and mud, in time of wet
weather, runs into the front part of the cave but its effect is not
noticeable for more than 30 or 40 feet. Beyond this is a reach of more
than 200 feet of perfectly dry level floor. It was not so smooth
before some grading was done for the mushroom beds, but was at no time
rugged or difficult to travel over. At 300 feet from the entrance is a
slope about 20 feet high, at the foot of which begins another floor so
dry as to be dusty in places. Whether this apparent thickness of 20
feet is of earth, or earth and stone mixed, or is indicative of a dip
in the rock floor, is not known, as no excavation has ever been made
except for the plant beds. There is a slight descent, not more than 3
or 4 feet, from the entrance to the point where the flood water seems
to reach. This is seemingly due altogether to the wash. The width of
the cave is about 50 feet, and notwithstanding the partial closure of
the entrance there is sufficient light as far back as 200 feet to
enable one to read ordinary print. So there is ample room within reach
of daylight for several hundred people to gather without
inconvenience.
The owner, Capt. J.B. Briggs, who lives in Russellville, has granted
permission to make any excavations desired, provided the floor be left
in good shape when done. It is evident that any satisfactory
examination will demand a large expenditure. If only a preliminary
trench were made, the necessary slope would require a considerable
width at top, while if anything should be disclosed that called for
extensive research, the earth must be wheeled or otherwise removed to
the sink hole in front, and the whole floor brought to a nearly
uniform level.
So far as appearances go, this cavern is better adapted for occupancy
than any other which has been examined. The depth of earth shows it to
have been open for a long period. If nothing can be found here,
denoting extreme antiquity of man, it would seem useless to make
further search in central or western Kentucky.
BEAR CREEK.--A very large rock house is on the right bank of Bear
Creek, 3 miles above its mouth. It would afford good shelter to a
large number of people, except in rainy seasons when they were most in
need of it. After heavy storms the creek covers the entire floor.
Other rock-shelters exist along Green River above and below Bear
Creek. They are not worth investigating. Some are flooded; others
difficult of access; still others become muddy after rains; while in
none of them is there any great depth of earth.
WARREN COUNTY
CRUMP'S CAVE.--A mile north of Smith's Grove is a large sink hole,
from one side of which extends a cave nearly a mile long. There is
abundant room and a good light near the front, and it is reported that
quantities of ashes were formerly to be seen on the earth a short
distance in. A considerable outside area drains into the cave, and the
floor at the present time is everywhere so wet as to be quite muddy.
Much water also falls from the roof. A hydraulic ram, not far from the
entrance, formerly forced water from one of these falls to the farm
residence. A descent of 6 feet, over large rocks and wet earth, brings
one to the nearly level floor, 40 feet from the mouth. The amount of
flood water running into the cave is indicated by a gully 4 feet deep
and the same in width, while trash and driftwood litter the floor from
wall to wall for more than a hundred yards.
THOMAS CAVE.--This is a mile north of Bowling Green. The roof of a
cavern has fallen in and forms a high mound of rocky débris, down
which a path winds on each side, giving access toward either end of
the cavern. There is scarcely a possibility that it was ever occupied.
MILL CAVE.--Three miles south of Bowling Green a stream emerges from
the foot of a slope, flows a hundred yards through a canyon-like open
channel, and disappears under a cliff. This is another instance of an
open cave due to a falling roof. The open end is large and forms an
excellent shelter for cattle. On either side of the stream, under the
cliff, is a shelf or projecting ledge, covered with loose stones.
Neither is 2 feet higher than the water level in a wet season.
BARREN COUNTY
PAYNE CAVE.--This, also known as Saltpeter Cave, is near Temple Hill,
9 miles southeast of Glasgow. The bluff in which it is situated is a
conglomerate limestone, rising from the waters of Skagg's Creek. The
cave has three different entrances, 100 feet or more apart, and each
entrance is broken into three or four by columns or masses of stone
that have resisted erosion. None of the entrances is large, or opens
into spacious chambers within daylight. Flood marks are visible in
all, and it is said that after prolonged or heavy spring rains the
water covers the floors.
BEN SMITH'S CAVE.--This was discovered while digging out a fox den. It
is a tunnel-like cavity, not more than 6 feet high or wide, and not
suitable for habitation. It lies a mile and a half south of Temple
Hill.
FORD'S CAVE.--This is between Freedom and Mount Hermon, about 14 miles
southeast of Glasgow. Originally the entrance was about 8 feet high
and 20 feet wide, and opened into a well-lighted chamber probably 40
feet wide and 60 feet long. The floor was of earth and level, with
ample space between it and the roof, as shown by marks on the walls,
for people to move about readily in any part of the room. The entrance
is now artificially closed by earth and stone, except for a space 4
feet square in which a door is hung. Old men in the neighborhood claim
they can remember when the floor was 20 feet lower than at present; a
manifest impossibility, for that measure would bring it several feet
lower than the bed of Mill Creek just in front of the cave. They also
claim that blocks of conglomerate and travertine 5 to 10 feet in each
dimension have formed from "drip" within their recollection; which, if
true, would prove these persons to be almost contemporaneous with the
cave men. The more probable statement is also made by them that in
early days saltpeter workers dug up and leached all the earth in the
cave, filling the entrance and the narrow space before it with the
leached earth from the front part of the cave and throwing that from
farther back into the cavities and pits left by the prior workings.
Inside the cave, near the entrance, is a never-failing spring whose
waters flow through a short, narrow crevice at one side. While easily
accessible, the water does not reach any of the earth floor.
This would have been an excellent site for aboriginal residence, but
there is now no undisturbed earth within daylight nor for some
distance beyond, and no one can remember that anything of an
artificial nature was ever exhumed.
THE ESMITH CAVES.--Two caves situated on Peters Creek near Dry Fork
post office, 14 miles southeast of Glasgow, were reported to be
admirably suited for shelter purposes. The smaller is not more than a
foot high, from floor to roof, and is filled with flood water after
every heavy rain. The larger is above flood line, but the entrance is
not over 2 feet high, and the "cave" is scarcely sufficient for a
sheep shelter. If the floor were cleared off to a depth of 4 feet from
its present level, it would be covered whenever the creek reached
high-water mark.
BONE CAVE.--Five miles east of Glasgow human bones were found in a
cavern. Particulars could not be obtained. The cave is on a hillside
and is entered through a narrow crevice by straddling the walls or
going down a ladder. Rocks and trash form a mound in this, the top
being 15 feet below the outside surface. On either side of this mound
one can make his way continuously downward to darkness, and a rock
thrown ahead can be heard going on down some distance over loose
stones. If human bones were ever found in here, either they were
thrown in or some person fell in and was unable to escape.
SLICK ROCK CAVE.--This is near the post office of Slick Rock, 7 miles
east of Glasgow. The entrance is in a narrow crevice at the brow of a
low hill. The descent is steep and rugged to beyond daylight.
LOVE'S CAVE.--This is located on Dr. Love's farm, 3 miles north of
Slick Rock. It is now used for storing apples and potatoes. The
entrance is through a large sink hole, formed by the falling in of the
roof of a cave which was at least 50 feet wide at this point. As is
usual, the débris has blocked the cave in one direction. Descent is
regular, though steep, along the slope into the other end of the cave.
The floor is wet and muddy the entire year on account of the drip from
roof and overhanging rock at the mouth. The vertical distance from top
of the débris to the level floor is about 30 feet, and from the top to
the outer surface about 20 feet more. Any attempt at excavation would
be difficult and costly, and conditions are such as to make it
probably fruitless.
MONROE COUNTY
Four caves in this county were represented as being worth
investigation. All are north of Tompkinsville, the county seat.
(1) A rock house in the conglomerate sandstone on the land of Dr. E.E.
Palmer, 7 miles north of Tompkinsville, shows smoke stains on the
ceiling, and some flint chips among the gravel and earth in front
where they have been exposed by water dripping over the face of the
cliff. There is, however, only 2 to 4 feet of space between the earth
floor and the roof, across the cave from side to side, a distance of
20 feet, and from the front to a point 10 feet back. From this rear
portion the earth slopes downward, parallel with the roof of the cave,
to the wall behind. The amount of descent could not be accurately
ascertained owing to the cramped space, but seems to be 5 or 6 feet.
At about that level on the outside a ledge was found on both sides of
the entrance and appears to continue across. If so, the earth covers
the part immediately in front of the cave. Neither tools nor men could
be found to do any trenching, but it is not probable the shelter was
ever high enough for a man to stand erect in, because most, or all, of
the floor earth must have come from the ceiling.
(2) A mile north of Dr. Palmer's is the McCreary Cave. The entrance is
from 60 to 70 feet across and the cavern reaches back fully a hundred
feet without any diminution of breadth. Two branches then start under
the hill. Each has been explored more than a mile. From each branch
flows a considerable brook. They unite near the entrance, sink into
the floor, and reappear as a strong spring 30 feet lower in the ravine
leading from the cave. The earth is not more than 3 feet deep near the
front. It becomes greater in amount farther back, but is wet
everywhere below the level of the running water, consequently no
excavation was practicable. Flood marks show that the whole floor,
except in places a strip along the side walls, is completely submerged
at times. On one side a rock ledge or shelf above reach of the water
is covered with dry loose earth from 1 to 3 feet deep. This has been
dug up in nearly every part by treasure seekers, but nothing of human
workmanship has ever been found.
(3) The Belcher Cave is 7 miles northwest of Tompkinsville. It is also
called Mill Cave, because a gristmill near the foot of the hill below
it is run by the outflowing stream. The entrance is wide and high; the
front chamber or vault is fully a hundred feet across each way. But
the bedrock is exposed in places and the earth is not more than 2 feet
thick anywhere. Water from the brook percolating through this keeps
the lower portion saturated.
(4) On John Black Tuley's land, on Meshach Creek, 6 miles northeast of
Tompkinsville, two human skeletons were found in a small opening,
which has since been known as the Bone Cave. It is a room not over 10
feet across at any part, in a limestone conglomerate, and may be of
quite recent origin. Being inconvenient of access, it is not in a
position for residence purposes. The skeletons, which were less than 2
feet below the surface, were probably those of Indian hunters. The
material in which the little cave is formed will crumble easily in
cold weather, being rather wet from the soil water soaking through the
hill above it.
There are other caves in this county, but from the descriptions they
do not seem at all suited even for temporary camping needs.
LOGAN COUNTY
Very little limestone appears in Logan County, the surface rock being
mostly conglomerate. A reconnoissance was made here, however, from
Russellville to Diamond Springs, to investigate "a broad valley" which
was reported to extend in a general north and south direction from the
Ohio, near Brandenburg, toward the Cumberland. It was also claimed
that beds of drift gravel exist at a considerable elevation above the
little creek now flowing through the valley and that rock shelters are
numerous at various levels.
As there is an abandoned drainage system, different from the present,
somewhere in this part of Kentucky, which has never been traced, the
place seemed worth a visit. The result was disappointing.
The valley is due entirely to causes now at work. The gravel beds
result from weathering of lower Coal Measure conglomerates. The rock
shelters are shallow, or with a thin covering of earth on the floor,
or subject to overflow. None was found that offered any incentive for
examination.
TODD COUNTY
On the farm of Mr. Robert Glover, 3½ miles southwest of Trenton, is a
cave known generally as "Bell's Cave," from a former owner. This forms
the outlet of a large sink hole, all the rainfall of 6 or 8 acres
draining out through it. The entrance is wide and deep, with an easy
descent to the level floor. It was for a long time a shelter for
Indians, for there is a layer of ashes more than 6 feet in depth, 50
or 60 feet long, and about 15 or 20 feet wide. These represent the
probable original dimensions, but the top has been leveled for a
dancing floor, and the drainage water has cut away a large part of it,
depositing the material farther back in the cave. Six feet of vertical
face is exposed at one place by the water, but the ashes extend still
deeper. It is said that bone needles, animal bones, antlers, mussel
shells ("different from any in the creek now"), burnt rock, and much
broken pottery were found in leveling the top. A very fine polished
flint celt 12 inches or more in length is also reported. One human
skeleton has been found, either at the edge of the ash bed or a few
feet away from the edge. The floor is covered, where the earth is
washed off, with flint nodules and fragments, and the slopes outside
have considerable on the surface. The gullies washed along the slope
are paved with nodules like a macadamized road, and in a few places
the streams have cut into them so as to show a foot or more at the
lower part of the bank so filled and packed with nodules that a knife
blade could not be thrust in more than 2 or 3 inches. But there is no
evidence of aboriginal quarrying. Probably the Indians dug nodules
out of the gullies, for chips are found above and on each side of the
mouth of the cave.
To the west, on top of the hill in which the sink hole occurs, and
beginning at its edge, is an aboriginal cemetery. There are two small
mounds and numerous graves. Scores of the latter have been opened.
They are all alike; flat stones form bottom, ends, sides, and top.
Many have only one skeleton; others more. The greatest number yet
found in one was six. Few are more than a foot deep or much over 5
feet long. About one in ten contains relics of some sort--in two or
three entire pots, beads, arrowheads, and gorgets occurred.
I opened three; two contained one body each. The face of one was down,
but all the other bones of this and all the bones in the second grave
were so decayed that no statement of their position can be made. In
the third grave, which was 2½ feet deep--the deepest yet found--were
three bodies. Two lay with faces north; the other, behind these, with
face south. The grave was 24 inches wide and less than 6 feet long.
Most skeletons (it is reported) were doubled up; often the graves were
not over 3 feet long and 10 to 16 inches wide. In some the bones
denoted skeleton burial. One skull had been perforated by a ball; at
least there was a round hole on each side exactly such as would have
been produced by a bullet.