If I were even a wife, I should welcome gifts that would make the work I

had to do in the kitchen more saving in time, effort and labor.

But being neither of these, and therefore, free to roam through

manufactories, laboratories, and shops, I will suggest from the myriads

of fascinating kitchen articles and appliances some that will make

captivating and useful gifts. When you once have made a present of any

of them you will automatically become entablatured in the recipient’s

memory, and maybe you will be saved the expense of many a meal!

If I were that cook--I would hanker after the ice pick that doesn’t

slide--the spring pick (25 to 35 cents). You just jab it into the ice

and slide the handle up and down, and you waste neither ice, food, nor

temper in the process. It is a gem of comfort.

THE SMALL EQUIPMENT

The cream bag, with all the alluring little tubes for making fascinating

designs on the birthday or Christmas cake, saves the cook time in

rigging up paper tubes for spreading cream and sugar.

If it were only to obviate the unpatriotic cry against our thick bread

in comparison to the British gossamer slice, it would ease one’s life to

have some one of the bread slicers on the American market which cost

very little. (About $4.[1])

[1] All prices here are merely approximate. By the time this book

reaches you the prices will be much lower, we hope!

Nothing saves more energy than the food chopper (from $2 up), the

nut-cracker (from $1 up), the cherry stoner (75 cents up). These

processes of stoning, chopping and taking out nuts whole are all tedious

by hand.

The coffee mill, too, is a pleasure, the kind that has the glass top to

keep you cognizant of how much work there is before you. Some of these

screw on the wall and are about $1.35 and upwards. The beef press ($1.50

to $5) (See Chapter on electric mixing units) for invalid or baby is

also a boon.

The prices of all these things are very low as prices go these days. In

some of the realms, however, the prices vary so from day to day that one

is afraid to mention them. But, whatever the prices are, the devices are

worth the cost in helpfulness and service. And, strange as it may seem,

the kitchen denizen, imperial though she be, rarely dowers herself with

the time-saving, step-saving apparatus.

SCALES AND SHARPENERS

Kitchen scales, good ones, are really indispensable to the careful

housekeeper. The balance type is the most accurate and costs from $8 up.

Very often you can test your purchases and if under weight you can scold

the grocer (what fun!) and if over weight--but what’s the good of dream

stuff here? The hanging spring scale is accurate and costs from $2.50

up. (See Chapter XL on Measures.)

“Oh, for a sharp knife!” A feminine and hopeless cry often ... but the

carborundum knife sharpener (30 to 50 cents) would obviate the

humiliation and let the lady cut a big swathe with her menfolk--if they

found sharp carving knives set before them. There are many types of

sharpeners on the market. Some of them, of course, are quite expensive.

Buy the best in this case as in every other case. The best is an

investment; less than the best is an expenditure.

Nothing can cut down the antagonism between time and service like

vegetable slicers. They slice any vegetable and cost about $2.50 up. Do

you realize what such a donation could mean? Could any little

fluffy-ruffle pincushion mean so much to anybody, be she cook or pauper?

If you want to give something in the realm of a card for Easter,

Christmas or New Year, or some trifle in the case of another sort of

anniversary, why not send some of the silencers for kitchen chair and

table legs at 10 cents a set? Or the permanent gas lighters for 25

cents. They are convenient and amusing.

Owning a rotary fruit parer ($1.50 up) saves energy and caters to your

sense of form, as the fruit can be served unangular and with little

waste, and besides, the cook’s imperial temper is not stirred.

TABLE BELLS AND GRIDDLES

Table bells of sweet tintinabulation save the nerves. At any rate there

is poetry in such a gift, and one can spend from $1.50 to any price at

all on these romantic things, as they also come in the precious metals.

There may be many domiologists with doubts about cake, bread and

mayonnaise mixers, but if you ever gave any of these articles to a

household, you would go down into history as a benefactor. I wonder

often why so many of us forget that such gifts are really gold mines.

No one likes to do unnecessary cleaning and scraping of utensils, so the

aluminum waffle and griddle are presents of unusual pleasure-giving

potentialities. The prices here are prone to fluctuation but there are

always sizes to be had around $4.50. The electric ones cost three or

four times as much.

If you would give a regal gift to the Monarch of Culinaria, the kitchen

cabinet is the thing. It is compact little kitchen “with everything in

it but the kitchen stove,” and fills the need of the worker in the badly

planned and equipped city kitchen and the unplanned kitchen out of town.

Although not exclusively a kitchen gift, the vacuum cleaner cannot be

excelled as a present. Once bestowed you are looked upon as a fairy

god-parent. Why not give one for a wedding present sometime? The

fireless cookers and refrigerators would come under this classification

too, but they vary in price too much to record here.

ELECTRIC DISHWASHERS AND STOVES

If there be a regent and not a cook in your kitchen, she will welcome

with tired arms the electric dishwasher, the boon to the woman doing her

own work. It costs about $150. or thereabouts and makes housework a game

rather than drudgery. Haven’t you often heard the young wife say: “I

wouldn’t mind house work at all if it weren’t for the dishwashing.”

Then there is the magic--yes, magic--electric stove family! There isn’t

time enough left to tell of some of their wonder workings. If you gave

one of these (costing about $180), you would be giving at the same time

money, time-to-herself, and the rest cure. Some of these stoves

automatically cook and stop their cooking while you are out or sleeping,

save money because they make cheap cuts of meat taste like expensive

cuts, act as fireless cookers and refrigerators and ... I will leave the

rest to your investigation.

Of course, there are the electric laundry appliances, casseroles,

ice-cream freezers which must be turned and which must not be turned,

convenient egg-heaters, buffers, kitchenette articles, and countless

other things in the line of percolators, etc., which are obvious and

need no mind-jerking from us.

All these things are gifts of value, tremendous helps to the cook and

ought to be boons to the seeker for something to give.

Be elastic! Come out of the parlor and go into the kitchen for a new

field of giving.

Gifts raise the value of things and the value of culinary pursuits need

raising.

CHAPTER XXXIX

LATEST INVENTIONS

There may be nothing new under the sun but there is always something

inviting under the roofs of our manufactories, in these labor, time and

energy sparing days. Not to keep abreast of the news is perhaps to lose

at least a week out of your year in time and a few tons of actual

effort.

There is an ideal mixer on the market which attacks and synthesizes a

mayonnaise, cream or eggs, mixes cakes, makes bread of its ingredients,

and all in all can almost be hitched to the stars and change the

rotations of the solar system, extravagantly speaking. It is modeled on

a giant mixer formerly used in hotels and soda fountains but now adapted

to home use. Furthermore, it is prepared to annihilate meats, nuts and

fruits. It is a complete power unit and worked by electricity.

_Multum in parvo_--here you have it. A little washing machine that can

be a sweet pal of the portable typewriter--less its weight, not

requiring, though, either ink or hand labor. This tiny wooden washer is

placed under a water faucet and the weakest stream of water revolves its

little cylinder so that you can wash two or three shirtwaists and six

hankies and seven towels in one operation while you sit and think how

lucky you are. Fancy this little fairy in a hotel room, in the country,

where the wash ladies are obsolete and your nurse won’t wash--or where

you don’t want to trust your trousseau to any laundry resident in your

rural haunt. And it is invaluable for the baby’s wash--because the baby

is no respecter of labor and needs much rehabilitation.

It fits on any wash-stand, is simply made, easily cleaned _très bon

marché_. So your parlor, bedroom and bathroom need not be a limitation

to your wardrobe’s perfection.

How many times have you toasted bread at your morning meal--the meal at

which most of us are poorly adjusted? How many times have we nearly (?)

sworn because your magic electric toaster only did the trick on one side

of the bread? Now--there has been born a toaster which, when one side of

the toast is done, “turns the other cheek” (by a pat of one’s finger on

a lever) and in most traditionally ethical fashion, so that you have

self-turned toast, well cooked, waiting for you--disgruntled or radiant.

It’s a nice thought--to have toast without blackened fingers or

disintegrated character.

Every sick room at some time or another needs, besides air, a gentle

deodorant. In accordance with electricity’s forward march an electric

incense burner can be bought which though not in the traditional mode is

very much to the manner of to-day.

Whether this will appeal to our Greenwich Village friends who espouse

with all their modernity archaic methods, we cannot tell--yet would we

suggest this device whether they be incensed or not.

Soon there will be on the market a wee electric washette--a portable six

shirtwaist or twelve soxer which washes clothes and will spare the fare

on silk hose or lingerie. Most city and country dwellings have

electricity and in a few months this vital little machine will be yours

for the paying.

Bathrooms to-day without the shower would be like the kiss to the

strange maiden who liked it not, were her lover unmustachioed. In order

to have a faultless shower--for they are often built haphazardly so that

they leak, spatter, burn and scatter--a standardized shower has been put

on the market which, when ordered by the architect, can be put into any

bathroom. It can be in curved or square design and in almost any size.

After installation it can be finished in paint, marble, tile or in

whatever uniform your bathroom mobilized. The fixtures are the most

modern, completely covering the bather with sprays enticing and

affording thorough refreshment.

Practically speaking, the electric washing machine in which boiling

water is put is a perfect instrument. Yet we can see some instances

where the self-gas-heated electric washer might be a great convenience

if the clothes are not permitted to have the dirt boiled in and the gas

jets left burning beneath them. To-day, to meet the demand of a

self-heating washer, there are a few being put on the market.

Along the line of washing machines is a “filler” which acts promptly and

swiftly so that the washing machine is filled and emptied of water with

a minimum effort. There are two or three of these assistants on the

market--two of which are good but one of which we think better. They can

be tried before purchasing.

ELECTRIFIED TABLES

Furniture is furniture. That seems rational--it has beauty but not life.

Yet in the Middle Edison Period in which we live, furniture arterially

supplied with electric current has come to pass. Table tipping has gone

out, but electrified tea tables have come in. There is no limit to what

the electrified tea table might not be, or might not contain. Tea,

toast, lectures or music fill its usual shallow depths. But now a

veritable companion to man--not only a pal but an advisor. Yet you must

be careful lest the amiable invention ousts the charm of tea itself. But

all new inventions when they seem the most perilous are the most useful.

Think of the charms of the electrified toilet table--shaving-water hot,

curling irons ready, lights in perfect range. It is beyond imagination

lovely. Then think of the electrified bed! It is too--Enough!

Overlooking the fact that an ironing board and iron are prohibited in

many hotels, they seem to arrive in other guises. A folding contraption

delightfully like a little box has been made and charmingly cretonned,

which is itself the telescopic board and inside of whose folds repose

the leveling iron, electric connections, etc.

SLEEPING ACCOMODATIONS

Gunpowder can be made out of the air, but that isn’t what we are looking

for--after all it’s a constructive use we give it--breathing and health.

Of late, people are longing for health--see the new religious sects. So

the home longs for it, and devices are continually being made to give

the home more air and better. An automatic device to make rooms breathe

is now a practical thing. It looks like a little box of copper wire on

one side, open on the other and fitted with little shutters so that the

warm air escapes and the cool fresh air is imprisoned in the room. It is

put on outside the window sash and without draft you breathe clean,

fresh morning air.

You can always supply a bed to the new-comer, or make your living room

into a more livable and sleeping one by the use of the new beds housed

behind a small door in the wall which swing easily to position at night.

The small door can be near the porch, so the sleeping porch by day can

be free of bedding and be an upper porch only. Furthermore, if the door

be placed rightly, the bed can be swung to the porch or to the room.

Rainy nights or cyclonic you could sleep indoors. It is not a folding

bed with that device’s many drawbacks. Of course this is more

practically installed when the house is built, yet it can successfully

be put in afterward. Its makers also offer a concealed ironing

board--behind closed doors--which for a limited home is a comfort.

Should your home not have enough electric connections which, of course,

it should have--you can now get electric sockets with two or three plug

extensions. This can double your electric elasticity. For example, a

lamp and an electric piano player can get their nutrition from one base

plug--and you can put two bulbs in one plug. A makeshift, of course, but

it doesn’t look like one; and if your home was built in the pre-electric

era you can keep up with the times with this device.

Lamps seem to-day to be one of the newer adjustabilities. A very useful

lamp to fix on the piano to light the eye of the musical page will be a

real convenience to the home in which the piano has to be in the living

room. The whole room can be dark except for this illumination of the

music pages--the audience can sit in darkness and have their comfort

evolve from the lighted region. Here is a time when from sitting in

darkness, light, comfort and good deeds may emerge. This lamp can be had

in all wood finishes and can be placed on beds or chairs if wanted in

these ways.

Not snubbing other devices at all, we must lump a few suggestions in

electric apparatus. For example, the hair dryers, giving cold and hot

air, the violet ray machines, the vibrator--all three made in convenient

size and light weight. With these three things your boudoir is much more

complete.

Yesterday, the silence cloth of cloth was all we had to put under your

tablecloth. To-day asbestos in all its fire impenetrability is to be had

in comfortable sheets for table use--to protect the polished surface in

entirety and enrich the tablecloth. You have known the mats in

asbestos--now you have the table rug.

Jars of pottery can be rapidly turned into electric lamps by a new

device made to fit down in and raise above a lamp shade, bulb and

complete paraphernalia. Think of the good uses some old wedding presents

can be put to! This device comes in sizes to fit jars with 3″, 4″, 5″,

or 6″ openings at the top.

Very nearly meeting the constant question: “Do you know of an

instantaneous heater?” comes the electric water heater which when

attached to your faucet gives instantaneous, exceedingly hot water. It

is a small thing not more than 8″ high and will be a boon of boons when

absolutely perfect.

During the summer, the attic gets overheated and makes itself an

impossible place for sleeping. This need not be, as there is a material

that comes in sheets to line the walls and ceiling. For cellars the

warmth is kept in; for attics the heat is kept out. Could there be

anything more simple and adaptable.

To close this chapter safely we can do no more than suggest a ready-made

fence! It has been on the market years--for the pastures--but is now

being introduced for the garden use of people who don’t want to or can’t

make a new fence. It is delightful--of rough hewn wood, 4, 5, or 6 bars,

posted and diagonalled. For a rambling place for roses and vines it has

no equal and to be able to buy fences by the yard for the yard is

veritably both joy and comfort brought to your very doors.

CHAPTER XL

MEASURE FOR MEASURE

“A pint’s a pound the year around,” said a little old lady dealing out

some lead shot, to a young man gunner, who received a pint of shot for

his pound and went off thinking he had begun his hunt with augury well

imposed! “What’s lighter, a pound of feathers or a pound of lead?” These

two idea rousers never would have been born were it not for the average

ignorance and negligence of weights and measures in the average

time-bound home. True it is, if we are time-run we certainly are

inaccurately measured and weighed, especially in our kitchens--where

over-doses may injure, where under-doses and over-doses may ruin

recipes!

There is really no need for this--we have had careful training in _our_

youth with “tables.” Recall herewith when absolutely perfect.

AVOIRDUPOIS

27.3 grains equal 1 dram (dr.)

16 drams “ 1 ounce (oz.)

16 ounces “ 1 pounds (lb.)

100 pounds “ 1 hundred weight (cwt.)

DRY MEASURE

2 pints equal 1 quart (qt.)

8 quarts “ 1 peck

4 pecks “ 1 bushel

105 dry qts. “ 1 bbl.--vegetables etc.

LIQUID MEASURE

4 gills equal 1 pint

2 pints “ 1 quart

4 quarts “ 1 gallon

31¹⁄₂ gals. “ 1 bbl.

LINEAR MEASURE

12 inches equal 1 foot

3 feet “ 1 yard

5¹⁄₂ yards “ 1 rod

320 rods “ 1 mile } not quite indoors

1760 yards “ 1 mile } but useful to know

5280 feet “ 1 mile }

SQUARE MEASURE

144 sq. inches equal 1 sq. foot

9 “ feet “ 1 “ yard

30¹⁄₄ “ yards “ 1 “ rod

160 “ rods “ 1 acre

These are the classics over which we of the ancient régime trembled but

which, in the new régime, youth imbibes in unwitting doses and grows in

spite of itself into engineers and surveyors!

Yet for you and me there are still tables that may be of use and L. Ray

Balderston in her _Housewifery_ has published one which is worthy of

quoting:--

4 saltspoonfuls equal 1 teaspoonful

3 teaspoonfuls “ 1 tablespoonful

16 tablespoonfuls “ 1 cupful

2 gills “ 1 cupful

2 cupfuls “ 1 pint

1 cup “ 8 fluid ounces

32 tablespoonfuls “ 1 pound of butter

2 cups of butter “ 1 “ “ “

4 “ “ flour “ 1 “ “ flour

2 “ “ sugar “ 1 “ “ sugar

5 “ “ coffee “ 1 “ “ coffee

1⁷⁄₈ “ “ rice “ 1 “ “ rice

2²⁄₃ “ “ oatmeal “ 1 “ “ oatmeal

2²⁄₃ “ “ cornmeal “ 1 “ “ cornmeal

1 cup of liquid to 3 cups of flour equal a dough

1 “ “ “ “ 2 “ “ “ “ thick batter

1 “ “ “ “ 1 cup of flour equals a thin “

To neutralize

2 teaspoonfuls of soda to 1 pint of sour milk

1 teaspoonful “ “ “ 1 cup of molasses

¹⁄₂ “ “ cream of tartar and one teaspoonful of soda equal

2 teaspoonfuls of “home brew” baking powder.

But what of all this if we use a tea cup one time, a coffee cup at

another for measuring, a dessert spoon one time, teaspoon another etc?

There is but one way to take the guess out of home cookery and that is

have a set of approved scales, dry and wet measures.

A salt-spoon _is_ a salt-spoon, even as a rake is a rake and not a

hoe--a teaspoon has a standard size even as a peck is a peck and a quart

is a quart. Those things have governmental regulation--and you should,

of course profit by them.

In some communities you can buy weights and measures sealed with

government approval. When possible this is a good thing. Always find

out, however, before buying whether they have the sanction of the

Standard Bureau in Washington. Or what _your_ community’s regulation may

be.

Suppose you asked for a yard of ribbon in one shop and got short

measure? You would _soon_ detect it. Yet daily and hourly you accept a

peck of “this” or a quart of “that” and never measure it when you get it

home.

Home telephoning for groceries and meats have permitted more short

selling than Wall Street ever dreamed of!

Every kitchen should possess the series of spoons--attached to one

pivot. This set includes: salt spoon (¹⁄₄ teaspoon), 1 teaspoon, ¹⁄₂

teaspoon, a metal (aluminum preferred) measuring cup with designations

of ²⁄₃, ¹⁄₃, ³⁄₄, ¹⁄₂, ¹⁄₄, a glass cup divided into quarter cups for

high convenience.

The glass graduate with spout, measuring a pint or a quart divided into

easily read divisions is a joy in any kitchen.

Then it is easy to have a dry measure such as a quart wooden

container--to measure things as they come from the grocer.

SCALES AND MEASURES

Scales must be like Cæsar’s wife “above suspicion”--tested by local

authorities for accuracy and worth the understanding that you will have

them officially tested and “blessed” and sealed by the “Sealer.”

There are many kinds of scales--avoid the kind which has a spring under

the pan as the spring unless a very expensive one gets out of order. The

hanging pan spring scale is generally good with per 10 to 20 lbs.

capacity. It registers the weight automatically on the pan. The folding

scale of the steelyard type is fairly accurate at a reasonable outlay

and folds against a wall and is out of the way if not weigh. The counter

beam or balance scale is most accurate if you have table space and

promise to remember where you put the weights. It requires care as you

have to do the marking by hand and no dial tells you the story. They are

more expensive but more accurate. For all purposes the scale should be

able to record from 1 lb. to 10 up to 30 lbs.

LIQUID MEASURE

The quota here can comfortably be: 1 quart measure, 1 pint, and ¹⁄₂

pint--a 4 ounce graduate sub-divided to 1 dram or less. When buying

those they should be cylindrical or conical with top diameter smaller

than bottom diameter. These are purchasable in metal, enamel ware, etc.

Must be made to wear; seamless and easily cleaned. The markings on these

should be clear enough to avoid the gawky game of “Guess.”

To avoid error in reading cone-shaped graduate, you will see that the

subdivisions are more at base than at the top. “A 4 ounce graduate may

be subdivided to ¹⁄₂ dram for each 2 drams, to 1 dram for the next 6

drams, to 2 drams for the remaining capacity up to 2 ounces and to 4

drams, or half an ounce for the interval between 2 and 4 ounces. In

filling or reading, it should be held level and readings made at the

_main_ surface of liquid. Disregard the creeping up of the liquid on the

width of glass.” (This is governmental bulletin advice.)

DRY MEASURE

Here the quota can be a nest of measures from ¹⁄₂ bushel to 1 quart.

These measures should be of metal or well varnished wood bound by a

metal or some sort of band on top. Cylindrical here is the best style.

If conical have them with their tops 10% or ¹⁄₁₀ larger than bottom

diameter.

For your help:

Diameters of ¹⁄₂ bushel should be 13³⁄₄ inch

1 peck “ “ 10⁷⁄₈ “

¹⁄₂ “ “ “ 8¹⁄₂ “

2 quarts “ “ 6⁵⁄₈ “

1 quart “ “ 5³⁄₈ “

1 pint “ “ 4 “

LENGTH MEASURE

How many a step has been wasted looking for a yard measure, etc. Why not

have a measuring corner in the kitchen and add to it 1 yard measure or a

tape 3 to 6 feet long? Isn’t that easy enough? A yard stick of course

should be of well measured wood plus metallic ends or all of metal. It

is most convenient if sub-divided not only into feet, inches and

fractions, but into fractions of a yard. The more fractions really the

less fractious will be your measurements.

PRESERVING ETC.

For testing accurately water densities, hydrometers are used. If in your

community you intend to do a lot of preserving or candy making, even in

your own home the saccharimeter (a kind of hydrometer) will take the

guess work out of the necessary thickness of a syrup’s density. This is

a short weighted spindle graduated from 0-70. When placed in water, the

spindle rests on the bottom of the vessel and the reading at the surface

is zero. As the density is increased, the spindle rises until when the

solution is saturated with sugar at the temperature indicated--the

reading is 100. This is an inexpensive one, another type mercury

weighted is more expensive and more accurate. The vessel must be same

depth as saccharimeter. A narrow vessel is best, so if you are doing

much preserving a 250 cubic centimeter glass cylinder or a brass

saccharimeter cup is the “easiest way.” Buy the cylinder and thermometer

with hydrometer. Temperature affects densities; with the three tools you

are sure.

THERMOMETERS

Thermometers are useful things, if they are _accurate_ and as nearly

unbreakable as possible. There are a few good ones on the market.

We cannot advocate the oven-door thermometer as there is hardly one

which can stand the onslaught of banging and remain in on its accurate

pinnacle!

Many a good stove and many a bad one have inveigled purchasers because

of their neat little thermometer on their oven doors. They work all well

and good for a while but you know a thermometer is a “dainty” instrument

and must be kept well to keep well. However, there are many good

thermometers built for pretty rough use--rough as any good instrument

may be treated, which of course should never _be_ rough.

The home could really afford the bath thermometer, the house

thermometer, the kitchen and last and least the clinical thermometer,

but the kitchen thermometer takes the guess work out of ovens’ heat and

prevents the “Fall of Doughs” a catastrophe like unto few in awfulness!

It does away with thrusting one’s hand in an oven to find out through

our uncertain senses how hot is the oven, and often prevents a well

burned finger, tongue when tasting or whole body when carelessness

creeps in.

The thermometer is no half measure! It is a real necessity--it conquers

feelings and tells the truth. If we are slaves to time in this world,

why not switch our allegiance to the thermometer! Then with thermostats

our rooms will be habitable because they have the right degree of heat,

not because _one_ feels it too hot and another feels it too cool, and

too our food will not be wasted by under cooking or over cooking.

Buy only the best thermometers--others add girth to the junk-pile--and

here we _must_ practice _girth_ control with all our vigor. Other

thermometers useful at home are for incubator, deep fat frying,

refrigerator, pasteurizing milk etc.

SOME PRECAUTIONS

Quantity as well as quality is necessary in household economy. For this

reason, it is well to consider a few precautions and as there are a few

confusing things in even our “tables” it is best to drive ourselves up

to them like a timid horse is lead to face the terror that causes him to

shy and free himself from terror.

The avoirdupois pound is larger than the Troy or apothecaries’

pound--avoirdupois is 7000 grains and the latter is 5760. But the troy

or apothecaries’ ounce is larger than the avoirdupois ounce. Troy and

apothecaries’ weight differ in the division of drams, scruples and

grains (apothecaries’).

APOTHECARIES’ WEIGHT

20 grains equal 1 scruple

8 scruples “ 1 dram

8 drams “ 1 ounce

12 ounces “ 1 pound

TROY WEIGHT

24 grains equal 1 pennyweight

20 penny wgt. “ 1 ounce

12 ounces “ 1 pound (Troy)

In purchasing drugs and chemicals for the home, you may need to know

these differences. Avoirdupois system should be used generally in bulk

buying. But unless stiff regulations exist in your vicinity the

apothecary is prone to sell all by the apothecary system. Troy weight

is used by precious metal purveyors so the house is little concerned

here.

FLUID OUNCES--WEIGHT OUNCES

Like the “Pint’s a pound” fable so does “all ounces look alike to me”

prevision disaster! The liquid ounce and the weight ounce _are not the

same_. [In Great Britain, however, the fluid ounce of _water_ does weigh

an ounce avoirdupois.]

DRY AND LIQUID QUARTS AND PINTS

Without strict ordinances in your part of the world pretty confusion

exists in the leveling of dry and liquid dissimilarities. The dry quart

is 16% larger than the liquid--so you see the loss incurred if liquid

measure is used for a dry purchase! When you buy a quart at the hardware

store for home use, you can find out whether it is dry or liquid by

filling it with _water_. The dry quart measure should weigh 2 pounds

6³⁄₄ ounces, the liquid quart would hold but 2 pounds 1¹⁄₃ ounces of

_water_.

UNCERTAIN QUANTITIES

The barrel measure is _somewhat uncertain_--_It is best to find out your

state regulations._ The barrel differs according to state law and

commodities sometimes. March 1915 a law was passed by (National)

Congress. This applies to all dry commodities except such as have been

sold by weight or numerical count (flour, sugar and cement). The

standard barrel has a capacity of 105 dry quarts. The liquid barrel’s

capacity is generally marked on its side.

SACKS AND BAGS

You are prone to “get the sack” here unless you are careful. There are

usually 94 pounds of cement to the sack and 100 pounds of sugar. In the

case of flour the weights are usually in multiples of a barrel ¹⁄₂, ¹⁄₄,

¹⁄₈ etc. expressed in pounds, but the custom is growing to drop the ¹⁄₂

pound, ¹⁄₄ pound, and ¹⁄₈ pound, from the weight of ¹⁄₈, ¹⁄₁₆, and ¹⁄₃₂

barrel size and make their weights 24, 12 and 6 pounds. (Barrel of flour

has 196 pounds.) Potatoes generally weigh 2¹⁄₂ bushels to the

sack--according to weight per bushel in your own State.

HEAPED BUSHEL--BULKY VEGETABLES, FRUITS ETC.

In different states the heaped measure is heaped differently, in some

the measure is heapable to the point where the commodity falls “down and

out,” in others the cone above the measure has certain lawful

dimensions--So find out before you are fooled.

In buying peas, dried beans etc. be sure they are measuring your

purchase by _dry_ not by liquid measures--or you will lose 15% of your

purchase!

BASKETS

Basket sizes are just about standardized to 2 quart, 4 quart and 12

quart baskets.

BOXES FOR FRUITS

A national law says that the standard basket or boxes or container for

small fruits, berries and vegetables shall be of the following

capacities:--Dry half pint, dry pint, dry quart, or multiples of the dry

quart.

CORDS OF WOOD

Practice differs here in large measure--Purchasers must find out local

laws. In most States a cord of wood is 128 cubic feet--in piles 3 × 8 ×

4 foot lengths. The lengths, however, into which wood is cut in some

places is 3, or 2, or 1¹⁄₂ feet! Measurements are sometimes made before

and sometimes after splitting. The basket in some states measures

fractions of cords, occasionally it is equal to a heaped bushel, in

other states it is more specifically designated. Look up your laws, here

all your safety lies!

CONTAINERS

Finally, check up the contents of your containers and notify the makers;

you will help the public and the manufacturer. Statements of weight are

in avoirdupois terms. Packages of 2 pounds or less are exempt from

marking, and containers below 1 fluid ounce come under this exemption.

Notify the maker if loss exists; it is a public service.

Losses often occur from evaporation, leakage, bad packing, and

consequent deterioration before opening. The manufacturer will be glad

to get a notification if he is of integrity so that he can take steps to

correct his measure. Here is real need for a good scales and measuring

cups.

The contents of a cylindrical can or paint pail can be determined:

Measure circumference with a tape.

“ height “ “ “

Diameter of can equals ⁷⁄₂₂ of circumference.

Subtract from circumference a slight amount for thickness of can.

Multiply the result by itself and the product of ¹¹⁄₁₄.

This result should be multiplied by height of can less proper

allowance for inset and thickness of ends.

The result (if you have used inches) will be the cubic contents (in

inches,) it can be reduced to gallons or fraction of a gallon by

dividing by 231.

These precautions are only a few in the course of home buying. But we

hope they will be suggestive.

Know your state laws.

No home should be--no matter what its scale--without a scale, a liquid,

as well as a dry set of measure.

It is wisest to buy and sell by weight as the heaping systems vary. It

is fairest to customer and more comfortable to merchant. If you and

every one insist on this fashion--it will prevail in the future.

ADDITION AND RECAPITULATION

Finally we have added to our familiar weights, measures, thermometers

and scales--the hydrometer for candy making, preserves etc., the water

meter which you don’t realize is working away in your home, the electric

meter which silently subtracts coin from your pocket too, the gas meter

which is just as financially obstreperous and if you are inquisitive

meteorologically you may too have a barometer to tell the atmospheric

pressure and presage the weather and the hygroscope or psychrometer

which will measure the humidity in the air. These things are the

measures which will take the “uncertain” out of your domestic sailing

and be an all encompassing compass for all your goings, comings, and

weighs.

But above all don’t forget the egg timer--or the clock for without these

two things marriage can be a brittle thing and homekeeping an anarchy.

CHAPTER XLI

TAKING THE KITCHEN ALONG

It is no longer necessary for motorists to trust to luck and the

roadhouse restaurant for lunch. They can take their own kitchen along

and loiter down the highways and byways and eat where and when they

will. Manufacturers who have studied the requirements of motorists

provide the neatest imaginable bits of equipment for use on the road.

With them you can be as comfortable in the Gobi Desert as at home.

The best known of these pieces is what is called the “Restaurant,” a

ship-shaped glazed duck or sole leather case equipped with knives,

forks, spoons, cups, saucers, butter jars, sandwich boxes, vacuum

bottles, salt and pepper shakers and napkins, for from two to eight

persons. They can be strapped on the running board or back rack of the

car or slid unobstructively into the tonneau. They are shaped usually

like suit cases, although one firm makes them in a flat, square shape of

sole leather, black grain leather or glazed duck (patent leather).

There is a case of this kind on the market that carries a cooking

apparatus, a long fork and a folding gasoline cook stove with two

burners. This burns ordinary gasoline, which the motorist always has

with him. There are no loose parts to assemble or become lost. When it

is folded all parts are enclosed easily and rapidly and the case fastens

securely and simply. It can be bought separately or in combination with

the above case. These cases are built on a basis of bass or some other

strong wood and are practically unbreakable.

If you prefer a wood fire to the gasoline stove, there are small grates

to be had which aid greatly in the building of it. These are light in

weight and can be carried easily.

Long ago the vacuum bottle solved the problem of carrying cold and hot

food. It is made in many shapes, styles and forms. It insures comfort

for the long or short tour, and if a little care is taken in the

handling there is no danger of breakage.

The best of these bottles are made of glass well annealed, insuring

elasticity. The outer walls are generally of steel and relieve the

jarring. The inner wall is also of steel, and between these walls is the

vacuum, impenetrative to heat and cold.

These jars and bottles hold from one pint to one gallon, so the range of

choice is vast enough for utility. The stoppers are so made and fitted,

plus their caps, to prevent leakage of wind or advent of outside air,

that the temperature probably never changes more than a few degrees in

twenty-four hours.

Cases for these bottles in various sizes are made of leather, duck and

wicker. They are convenient and absolutely necessary to the longevity of

the bottle as it is so adjusted in the casing that it rests and vibrates

enough to ease strain which might overcome the elasticity of the glass

and cause breakage.

The bottles themselves are finished in leather over metal or in metal

containers, and some come equipped with handles and also with convenient

cups.

Another invaluable aid in an automobile trip is the fireless cooker,

which makes a hot meal at any time a reality. Start it before the trip

begins and by meal time you’ll have a real dinner, not a pseudo-feast.

These fireless cookers can be had, so don’t forget them in planning a

trans-desert tour amid sands and dry winds.

REFRIGERATORS

There are on the market admirable ice-boxes for the motorist. These come

with partitions for ice and partitions for food. Some have racks in

which bottles and other things are held firmly. The wicker basket lined

with metal is a useful one and has a convenient carrying handle. It is

of the finest workmanship of imported reed, with hardwood bottom covered

with two coats of mineral paint. The covers are of three-ply basswood

finished in dark forest green. There are straps to fasten the cover, and

the hinges, buckles and nickel-plated fixings are of perfect

workmanship. The lining is nickel-plated zinc and especially insulated

against aggressive, unwanted, outside air.

The iceless refrigerator is an ice saving and remarkable device which

“works” on the old evaporation cooling principle. The two earthenware

crocks, which fasten together, are submerged before filling in clear

water. When kept in a draught or in a moving vehicle or in a window, the

evaporation process cools the food within. This device saves ice, the

cool air doing the work.

The other refrigerator boxes are excellent, too, with their fine

installations and vents for melted ice. These are generally leather

covered and zinc lined.

COOKING OUTFITS

Campers use cooking outfits that motorists do well to copy. For example,

the cooking outfits made of hard seamless aluminum, for from two to six

persons, include, in the smallest set, one frying pan, two cooking

pots, one coffee pot, two plates, two cups, two soup bowls, two knives,

two forks, two dessert spoons and two teaspoons, all nested together in

the big cooking pot, and weighing six pounds six ounces. The outfit

measures 9¹⁄₂″ × 8³⁄₄″, all wrapped in a canvas case.

The nest for eight includes: three cooking pots, one E cooking pot, one

large coffee pot, two frying pans, eight dessert and eight teaspoons. It

is only 11″ × 12⁷⁄₈″ nested, and weighs 18³⁄₄ pounds. It can be attached

in canvas case to rear or side of running board racks, or carried in the

car.

If aluminum is too expensive, there is always the very same kit in

steel, heavier, of course, but just as compact in size. All are seamless

and best quality.

There are also pocket kits which weigh about 31 ounces and measure 2″ ×

3¹⁄₈″ × 8¹⁄₂″ and include a folding broiler, racks which thrust into the

ground, two frying pans with detachable handles and which when fitted

together make a perfect roaster. All fold neatly together and there is

room for knives, forks, etc.

If this list of accessible accessories does not fire your desire to take

to the open road, nothing will.

CHAPTER XLII

THE FIRE HAZARD

The chief underlying reasons for fires in civilized communities are:

carelessness, ignorance and panic.

The immediate causes are: kitchen stove and range maladjustments;

heating stove and furnace pipe lapses; trouble in chimney flues and

pipings; carelessness with lamps, gas, oily rags, cleaning fluids; soot

deposits of soft coal; spontaneous combustion; bad insulation; no

insulation; cigarettes, etc.; no means to put out a fire when it starts;

and, topping it all hidden electric diseases cause almost more fires

than any other one cause.

In rural farm communities there are the forest and brush fires, which we

need consider but grudgingly here, the many fires which catch from roof

to roof, and the fires from the chimney which start one’s own roof

afire. Then there are lightning, incendiary fires by tramps, kerosene

oil lanterns; creosote from the smoke and soot in wood-burning

communities disintegrates the mortar in the masonry, and as the woodwork

comes in contact with the chimneys, fires are the result. To these are

added the other hazards common to all modern life to-day.

Farmers or those living out of the range of the fire department should

be more especially equipped against fire than any other groups. For

example, a ladder is a great necessity, and yet many people who are in

isolated places never spend a little money on a good one that might save

the roof and then the home, to say nothing of lives.

Dirty lamps with loose connections cause many a fire and should be

thought about seriously. Wet days on the farm are great fire makers, for

clothes are put near to the fire, and whoop la!--a very warm fire

ensues! Candles, too, are handled carelessly and should be treated as

inflammable material when they are lit. Most ashes will spontaneously

burn if set away, as the fine bits of coal and grease adore fire.

Lanterns plus hay if not carefully used are another cause of fire. So

carelessness really is the root of 99% of fires, and yet we indulge

ourselves in this ruthless pleasure.

Probably the kitchen is one of the best little hatcheries in the home

for fires. Why that is, is easy enough to see. The chief cause here is

negligence and its first cousin, ignorance.

Fires are swift followers of these conventions:

Ignition of wood floors under, or walls back of, stoves; drying wood in

ovens; kindling left over night too near the stove; clothes hung on

backs of chairs too near the stove or on the clothes horse too near to

the stove, especially if they have been cleaned with gasoline or other

cleaning fluids; thin clothes, flimsy sleeves catching a flame make

delightfully hot and dangerous fires.

Fires may be guarded against in these ways:

1. Metal shields projecting at least 6″ at the sides and back and 12″

in front of ash pans should be placed under all kitchen stoves

standing on wooden floors.

2. All ranges on wood or combustible floors and beams that are not

supported on legs, and have ash pans 3″ or more above their base,

should be set on brick foundations.

3. Large ranges, if under combustible ceilings, should have metal

hoods above with a ventilating pipe passing through to the outer air

through a sleeve or asbestos packing.

4. Wood stud partitions back of ranges standing 12″ or less away

should be shielded with metal from the floor to at least 36″ higher

than the ranges.

5. It should be remembered that tin, zinc or sheet-iron used to

protect woodwork from the heat should be so placed that there will be

an air space between it and the wall.

6. If a metal is against the wood, it only serves to conceal charring

without preventing it. Bear in mind that bright tin reflects more heat

than sheet iron.

7. Watch stovepipes for parted joints and rust holes; clean soot from

chimneys and stovepipes at stated intervals; do not allow plaster back

of stoves to remain broken.

8. There is now a fine asbestos product made which is a mixture of

cement and wood and asbestos which if placed under the stove or even

back of it will prevent fire. This material is not cold to the foot,

can be highly polished and is most delightful in a well groomed

kitchen. This too can be used for table tops and is polished by a

mixture made for its express demands.

This asbestos wood is invaluable for partitions, obviating very thick

and expensive walls; and due to its lightness it can be used for light

frame houses and insure fire protection. It is used for switch-board and

other insulations by electricians, etc. It takes various stains and

finishes in imitation of wood or marble, is rigid, light and fireproof.

It is the same physically as wood except that it is fireproof, takes a

higher polish and is harder. It can be used not only for making walls,

floors and ceilings fireproof, but window casing, partitions,

base-boards, cabinets, and all trim. It is moisture-resisting and

impervious to weather conditions.

The people that are the most careful of the pocketbook seem to forget

the ordinary fire peril and don’t seem to realize the necessity for

concentration on the cures, probably because they are optimists and do

not think of any trouble--yet why pay so dearly for optimism?

For example, most stoves should be at least 24″ to 30″ from these things

that combine so affectionately with them and should be at least 6″ off

the floor if not standing on metal or asbestos wood. If lath and plaster

are protected by a metal shield, then the stoves can be within 18″ with

safety. A fire proof material should be at least 36″ square on the floor

to catch flying embers from stove or fire.

The fire clay linings in the stove should be watched and seen to be

sound, and the fire in any stove should never be made above the fire

clay linings. Possibly you have not heard of these things before and

they sound like the cry of the alarmist. Never fear. It is better to cry

before you’re hurt, sometimes, than afterwards!

Never put kindling wood in the oven.

Deposit all ashes in metal receptacles or upon non-combustible floors,

removing same from building at least once a week. Barrels or boxes

should not be used for storing or carrying ashes unless they are

constructed entirely of metal.

Before starting fires in the autumn, thoroughly clean out the furnace

and flues thereto, also the fireplaces.

Carefully examine them and immediately repair or replace any defective

part. Don’t burn out chimneys and flues by making an especially hot fire

with paper, etc. Main chimneys should be cleaned from roof to cellar.

All stovepipes where entering chimneys should be provided with metal

collars and rigidly fixed in place. Replace any tile, crock or flimsy

flues and chimneys with substantial brick chimneys.

Gas stoves or other heaters should have a ventilating flue to carry off

the burned gas fumes, which are poisonous. Do not use portable rubber or

similar tubing, but connect all gas stoves rigidly and securely with gas

pipe. Examine valves and see that they are tight and do not leak.

Never permit a stove of any kind to be set up without stone, brick,

concrete or metal protection underneath, or near a partition without a

metal shield and air space. Never run stovepipes through partitions, or

paste paper over flue holes.

All types of open fireplaces or stoves, especially where there are

children, should be provided with substantial spark screens.

Don’t throw waste paper on an open fire unless you watch it more than

carefully.

Every period of extreme cold results in numerous fires due to forcing

the heating apparatus. Keep this in mind next winter. Watch your heater.

Keep hoods and pipes of kitchen range free from grease and lint by

cleaning with hot water and lye.

Do not hang clothes or bags near stoves, or on stovepipes or steam pipes

or on electric bulbs. In the case of the recondite furnace whose being

we take for granted, the same principles apply as to the stove. For

safety, asbestos about the wood and adjacent places makes safety sure,

and if safety first doesn’t apply here where does it? It will at least

keep the secretive fire below stairs from breaking bounds.

Where pipes, flues, etc., pass through woodwork there should be asbestos

or metal protection to the wood or else here again we will be victims

of a lapse of precaution.

Sometimes fires have occurred by the closing of all registers in a house

heated by hot air and the unnatural heat left in the furnace overheats

pipes, etc., to a dangerous degree. In some homes so heated there are

two registers which cannot possibly be closed, and obviates overheating.

Inspection of flues to see that deteriorated mortar will not permit the

exit of fire to surrounding woodwork will prevent many a fire. Very

often where joists and beams rest on chimneys and are not sufficiently

insulated against the ravages of faulty construction or wear, they will

catch fire slowly but surely.

Faulty joints in pipes are many times the cause of fire when the rest of

the home is perfectly guaranteed against it. For example, when a

stovepipe is fitted into another there should be at least a 3″ lap to

make a safe joint. Imperfect junctures of pipe and flue, pipe and pipe,

make for the escape of sparks and consequent fire. Stovepipes should not

pass through a floor or plaster partition or any concealed place, lest a

parted joint or rust holes may cause mischief.

Nor should any pipe that is likely to be heated pass through an attic

where fluff is bound to accumulate, unless this pipe be insulated with

asbestos to prevent ignition. Neither should a stovepipe pass through a

roof, window or siding even of a summer kitchen; and the running of a

very long stovepipe perpendicularly into a chimney is also hazardous.

A stovepipe or a chimney, no matter how well isolated by zinc or what

not, can set the ordinary shingled roof on fire by the escape of

fiercely burning bits of soot and cinder. Many a roof has been burned

this way, to say nothing of the whole house.

There is to-day, besides the heavy tile, metal and composition roof, an

asbestos roofing in the shape of shingles of any color and shape that

will wear indefinitely, and is absolutely fireproof, moisture-proof and

light enough to be put on any house. Furthermore if you don’t want to

remove the old wooden roof, this shingle can be put over it and make a

better roof than without the old one, as the insulation value of the

wood will keep the attic warm in winter and cool in summer. There are

many asbestos roofings, the best of which are made of asbestos fiber,

cement; these are made in all colors, sizes and shapes and can be put on

by any roofer. There is never any reason to repaint or repair them, and

if they are a bit higher at first in price than the ordinary shingle,

you save in the lack of upkeep and the fact that no sparking can go on

between your neighbor’s roof and your own or between your chimney and

your own roof. Copper roofs now are within the scope of more purses than

heretofore.

You have to remove stains from your garments, and for this may incur

death and destruction by fire quite readily. But death is not necessary

if a few precautions be taken. Keep the gasoline or whatever you may

have in a can that can be bought for the purpose. Then don’t deposit it

in the stove or near it, but away from it where there is no chance of

any fire coming in contact with it. Don’t clean your clothes with these

fluids in the smoking room or the kitchen. If possible clean them

outdoors.

FUELS

Wood as a fuel is dangerous because it burns rapidly, makes a lot of

ashes and has to be replenished so often. Kerosene makes a lot of

trouble because there is such crass ignorance in its use. Some people

seem to love to fill a lamp when it is burning. Of course this is the

worst thing that one could do. And others dote on pouring kerosene on an

open fire. Gasoline is explosive and as a fuel for the home not at all

warranted. Water won’t be a very good extinguisher in these cases, but

we will talk about extinguishers a little later on.

When you realize that six percent of all fires are caused by lamps it

will do no one harm to learn the following rules by heart and by brain:

Kerosene should always be handled by daylight and away from all flames

and fires. Under no circumstances whatever should a lamp be filled while

its wick is lighted. After filling a lamp both the burner and the

reservoir should always be carefully wiped free from oil films.

When a lamp is not burning it is well to keep the wick a little below

the top of the tube. This helps to prevent oil from working over the

burner and reservoir.

Lamps should be filled as often as they are used. Especially do not

light a lamp when the oil is low in the reservoir. Never use a burner

which fits loosely upon the rest of the lamp. Never use a lamp wick

which does not fit the tube provided for it. Never blow out a kerosene

flame downward. Turn down the wick a little and let the flame go out of

itself.

If you must blow it out blow upward through the burner or across the top

of the chimney. Both of these methods produce an upward draught.

Do not try to carry a blazing lamp to a place of safety. The least

agitation may cause an explosion. When the lamp is well filled there is

small chance of gas forming in it; but as the oil is consumed explosive

gases form.

A burner that is kept clean and bright radiates heat, while a dirty one

conducts heat to a lamp.

Glass lamps are especially dangerous. The dropping or breaking of

lighted lamps and the spreading of burning oil annually bring havoc to

many hundreds of homes.

MEDICAMENTS

As well as cleaning fluids the presence of medicine and liniments made

of ether and chloroform and alcohol are always causes of fire when not

properly housed in the right kind of metal medicine chest and not

directly over or near a gas jet or oil lamp. So remember to use

carefully anything with these chemicals or camphor, varnishes,

turpentine, benzine or gasoline. Keep them in tin cans, which are to be

had for them. Use them in daylight.

Never leave rags around saturated with oils, medicines or greases,

because spontaneous combustion will take place.

According to the National Fire Protection Association, the attic, cellar

and all closets and outbuildings should be cleaned at least once every

year, and all useless material and rubbish removed therefrom and burned.

These unnecessary accumulations are dangerous, and are the causes of

many fires. Store all remaining material neatly so that a clear passage

may be had between or around boxes, cases, barrels, etc.

Metal waste baskets, only, should be used.

In storing clothing, first remove all matches or other material from the

pockets and then carefully fold and neatly place away. Do not hang

clothes where they will be near hot chimneys. Do not go into closets

with lighted matches or candles.

Care should be exercised in burning leaves, dead grass or rubbish. Keep

these fires a safe distance from buildings, and never light them on

windy days.

Do not bank houses in winter with straw, excelsior or other readily

inflammable material; a chimney spark or carelessly thrown match may

ignite it.

Use safety matches, and make it impossible for children to get them.

Always place burned matches in metal receptacles; never throw them on

the floor or into waste baskets.

To smoke in garages, in beds, or around stables containing hay is

deliberately to invite disaster.

Swinging gas brackets are dangerous, and never should be allowed near

curtains or dressers. Fix them rigidly so as to avoid contact with

combustible material. If open gas flames are within two feet of ceiling,

see that ceiling is protected with sheet metal or asbestos board. Tips

for gas lights are inexpensive, while a light used with a broken tip or

without a tip often causes fire. Don’t use gas pendant mantles unless

protected underneath with wire gauze. Hot carbon deposits form and drop

from mantles of gas arc lamps. A globe closed at the bottom is safer.

Examine the gas meter, see that it is securely set and well connected,

and is not located near open lights or furnaces. An outside gas shut-off

valve to service-connection is desirable. Never look for gas leaks with

a match, candle or lamps.

Where a dwelling is lighted by a gasoline vapor or acetylene gas system

the rules governing the safe use of these illuminants should be

carefully studied and rigidly observed.

Illuminating oils should be kept in closed metal cans in a safe place,

and lamps should never be filled except by daylight. Kerosene lamps

should be kept clean and properly trimmed. If allowed to burn all night,

select one that contains much more than enough oil. A dirty lamp

containing only a little oil is unsafe.

Do not use paper or decorative shades of inflammable material on lamps

or electric light bulbs.

Electricity can be a real hidden peril and extends throughout the wire

system in a building. Be sure it is safely installed, and have the

system carefully inspected and approved by a recognized electric

inspector. Many fires are due to defective electric wiring. Do not

destroy insulation on electric light, fan or heater wires by hanging

them on hooks or nails. Immediately repair or replace any defective

switches, fuses, sockets, etc. A fuse is the “safety valve” of an

electric system, and should never be replaced by one of larger size or

any other material.

Before attaching electric irons, vacuum cleaners, cooking utensils or

any other electrical device to your lighting circuits or sockets,

consult an electrician as to the ability of your wiring to withstand

this additional load. Electric wiring systems are designed to carry only

a certain current, and if overloaded may cause fires. Numerous fires

have been caused by leaving electric irons with the current on.

Disconnect them immediately when through using. _Electricity is safe but

carelessness is unsafe._

HEATING AND GARAGE HAZARDS

Coal and kindling should preferably be kept within a brick or stone

enclosure and not stored against frame partitions nor directly against

walls of boiler or furnace. It is well to see that the garden hose may

be attached to the kitchen faucet.

Never allow open flame lights in a garage. When filling the tank, run

the auto outside, so that gasoline vapors will dissipate.

Do not keep quantities of gasoline or calcium carbide inside of garage

or dwelling. An approved underground storage tank is the safest method

for keeping gasoline.

[Illustration: DETACH PLUG FROM IRON AS WELL AS FROM SOCKET IF YOU WANT

YOUR HOME INTACT]

[Illustration:

_Courtesy of N. Y. Edison Co._

DON’T PULL THE CORD A MILE ABOVE THE IRON TO DETACH, BUT TAKE IT DOWN

CLOSE TO THE IRON. THIS SAVES THE WIRES AND FIRES]

[Illustration:

_Courtesy of N. Y. Edison Co._

SHE HAS PREPARED THE WAY FOR A NICE LITTLE FIRE]

[Illustration: SHE IS CAREFUL AND HER IRON WILL NOT PRACTICE ARSON]

A metal waste can should be located at a convenient place outside the

garage for all waste and greasy rags. Burn these every week. Never use

sawdust or shavings to absorb grease and oil. Scrub floor (if wooden)

occasionally with hot water and lye.

The use of gasoline for cleaning parts of the automobile in the garage

is a dangerous thing.

The garage should not be heated by means of stove or open fire of any

kind, unless same is isolated in another room so that the gasoline

vapors of garage cannot possibly get to it. Gasoline vapor travels.

Being heavier than air, it seeks low levels. Ventilation should be

arranged to take care of vapors collecting near the floor.

Keep an approved fire extinguisher and a pail of sand in the garage.

Water thrown on burning gasoline merely serves to spread it.

In many cases water will quench fire. But in the case of oils, alcohol

and other volatile liquids and grease fires water simply spreads the

fire and you are in more trouble than you were at first.

THE BIG EIGHT

The eight firemakers in the order of their devastating power are as

follows: Electrical, due to carelessness and lack of proper inspection;

matches and smoking; defective chimneys and flues; stoves, furnaces,

pipings and boilers; spontaneous combustion; sparks on roofs, and

petroleum and its products. From 1915 to 1919 the value of fires from

these causes aggregated $1,416,375,845. Is it any wonder that there is

now agitation all over the United States to have at least thirty minutes

given each week to the study of fire prevention? Saving the home is

better even than building more homes.

EXTINGUISHERS

Every home, of course, should be equipped with the best possible

extinguisher. There are any number of them on the market. Do you know of

many motorists who refuse the call of the extinguisher? There are not

many who have not one in their car, yet there are few homes with them.

Large homes should have one on every floor. Small homes, even if they

have not enough footage to lower their insurance rates, should have them

to reduce the fire hazard.

What kind should the householder buy? The chief thing here is to buy one

that has no fancy method of operation, that simply by inverting the

container turns on a forceful stream; light as possible in weight, not

over 25 pounds and preferably about 12, so that a woman can use it.

Right there it is interesting to note that _The Fireman’s Herald_

reports that women daily put out more fires and obviate conflagrations

than men; that were it not for the fact that women put out so many, the

fire peril would have been far greater.

Other things that you must demand in the extinguisher are that it must

have at least a stream of 20′ long; that there must be no suffocating

fumes from the chemical’s contact with the fire; that the chemical must

be as nearly stainproof as possible so that in a small fire the room is

not unnecessarily disfigured. The chemical must not freeze readily at

least not above 27 or 28 degrees Fahrenheit.

There is one extinguisher on the market to-day that is gaining mightily

in favor, because it spreads a foam over the fire and cuts off the

oxygen, and the laying of the foam prevents a flash-back when the fire

is nearly out. At first this was used in the extinguishing of oil

fires, the heaviest and most difficult of all fires to put out. For

example, where a chemical engine took an hour to do the trick this foam

type took a few minutes.

This has the added power of expanding over eight times its bulk in the

container when released, so that if the house type is used the container

need not be over ³⁄₄ gallon and you really have about six gallons of

material for the fire. This does no more damage to draperies than would

water. It does not injure cottons or wools and does not penetrate

fabrics as many other chemicals do. If it gets on one’s clothes it is

easily brushed off after it dries. On polished and varnished furniture

it has no effect and is easily washed off.

SERVICE

Reliable firms will always tell you correctly what kind of an

extinguisher to buy for your particular purpose. They will, too, in

compliance with the Board of Underwriters’ rulings, watch the apparatus

once a year and recharge if necessary. Actually they don’t always need

it, but it is a wise ruling of the Board.

There are some extinguishers excellent for outdoors, motor boating,

etc., but which indoors are apt to give off suffocating fumes.

There are extinguishers of large capacity on wheels for large homes and

large estates. These are a great insurance against fire. They are built

on narrow gage wheels for rolling on floors in the house and heavier

construction for outdoor use. Many big estates use these little two

wheelers, as they are fire departments in themselves.

A good quality fire hose is a mighty good assistance in a large home,

too, and is becoming very widely used. Of course, there are many fires

that water not only will not quench, but will spread; on the other

hand, there are many little conflagrations that water immediately will

kill.

Another good method, but not as efficient, for use in all conditions is

the telescopic fire bucket set. Six pails are set in a container in the

liquid and all one has to do in case of fire is to open the lid and each

pail comes out filled. If the fire is not great and has just started and

is within a few feet of you, this is all well and good, but one can

hardly throw water from a pail as far as ten feet above your head, while

with the extinguisher the stream is from twenty to forty feet in length.

This pail system would not reach a roof, you see, which the extinguisher

might.

An intimate acquaintance with the wizardly asbestos will do a lot in the

home to keep the hearth fires burning in their right places. The

asbestos ironing pad on the ironing board is a good resilient thing.

Although not in this case primarily meant as a fire preventive, it will

stop the iron from causing a big fire, even if it should burn off the

top sheeting, for when it reaches the asbestos the fire will go out.

There are now some very convenient collapsible ladder escapes which are

stored in a small box near the window, which makes the escape from a

fire not dependent on ancestors who were tight-rope walkers.

There are regular fireproof builders who do naught else but fireproof

work, but in this article we are only concerned in the home after it is

built. Yet we cannot refrain from saying that the right architect and

the right builder at first will reduce your fire hazard; they will

adhere not only to the Underwriters’ rulings but they will build a house

so that its insulation (electric), air insulation and circulation and

partitions will be done according to safe and wise arrangement.

Don’t do foolhardy things and think you can get away with them.

Have the telephone number of the nearest fire station on a special

card at your telephone, or have fire departments in your own

home--extinguishers.

Familiarize the family with the operation of the nearest fire alarm box.

After operating a fire alarm, stay near it to direct the fireman to the

fire. Every minute is significant.

Don’t fail to notify the chief of the fire department of anything you

may see that is dangerous or liable to cause fire.

We could say to-day that in the home millions are spent for fires, but

hardly one cent for prevention of them. Should we not as enlightened

human beings take thought and save the world some of its useless

expenditure of life, limb and extravagance?

There is now on the market a new little extinguisher weighing about two

pounds.

CHAPTER XLIII

TAKING CARE OF THE HOUSEHOLD EQUIPMENT

As we have intimated before in these articles, the best of everything

may be yours, yet if you care for them in slovenly, careless or

uninformed ways it will be as if you had nothing whatever of any value.

The persistent ignorance of the seemingly most enlightened and

experienced housekeepers as to the use and care of the refrigerator is

appalling. It is positively amazing to see the breakage of sane rules of

procedure in favor of what seems to them proper. For example, the best

of housewives will insist on filling the ice chamber of the refrigerator

with but a suspicion of ice and a riot of food, whereas the ice chamber

is meant for ice, and ice to the limit of its capacity, not once a week

but every and all day. Unless this is done the air currents over which

the manufacturer has slaved to make possible will not occur, and the

best refrigerator becomes a useless thing. You might just as well get a

packing case and stuff it full of ice and food. The ice chest must be

full in order to cool the air and start the heavier (cool) air falling

through the chest, which as it descends gets warmer, rises, passes over

the ice, cools again and drops--and so on in endless circulation. It is

these currents which keep the refrigerator cold; it is not the ice cake

itself. In a little ice box, yes, the food has to be put into the ice

chamber as there is no other, but here you are not depending on the

melting of the ice starting air currents to descend and to rise. The

problem is quite a different one.

We think probably the difficulty with the owners of refrigerators is

that they have the ice box in mind and it is an inherited notion that

the food must be in close proximity to the ice. This paragraph may seem

a digression, but it is purposely put in to emphasize the fact that the

ice box and the ice refrigerator are two very distinct and different

things. Therefore, be it remembered that in the refrigerator you must

not waste the ice by cuddling warm provisions next it, because your ice

is like a battery. It, too, makes currents--not electric, but air

currents.

Now then, when we have the ice-making currents, what happens to the air

of varying degrees of temperature? The coldest air is at the bottom of

the refrigerator (of course we are always thinking of the best

refrigerators) because cold air is heavier than warm air and the warm

air rises. Therefore, if you have odorous things do not put them in the

ice chamber because the air starting down will carry odors along. Put

the odorous things and the things that should be kept coldest on the

lower shelves.

In some chests the currents of air are so good that onions and butter

never exchange compliments--a highly snobbish society where there is

little amalgamation.

One buyer of an expensive refrigerator said that his refrigerator was a

great disappointment because the ice chamber leaked. Now this was a

strange thing, for these ice chambers are made of the best workmanship

known to refrigeratordom. Everything was questioned: Did you keep your

ice chamber full? The reply: Yes. Did you keep things other than ice in

the ice chamber? The orthodox answer came: No. Do you close the door of

the ice chest completely? Answer: Yes.

So the repair man went to the house to give the erring chest a

stethoscoping and found that the floor of the ice chest’s compartment

was a little uneven and the water was forced from the melting ice into

foreign channels and escaped through the front of the ice box, dropping

in streaking lines on the front façade.

This is but a minor point, yet the refrigerator or the stove or the

vacuum cleaner or the anything is often blamed for misplacements, lack

of care and ignorance on the part of the operator, and this article is

meant to forestall a very few of them.

Here, then, are some things to watch out for:

1. Keep the doors of the refrigerator closed always. If they don’t

close easily, see to it that something is done to make them close.

2. If you have a refrigerator with a lot of movable parts it is well

to remove them and immerse in hot water occasionally. But don’t buy

one that has many outgoing parts; it’s unnecessary and a constant

bother to adjust.

3. Once a week wash out the whole chest with warm water and soda;

never use strong smelling soaps. Ammonia can be used but it is

probably best to use soda. Hot water cleans better, of course, but it

will give the ice more cooling to do and if the box is cleaned

regularly cool water ought to do the trick well enough. However, every

so often the hot bath is a good thing.

4. Every day wash off the ice that newly enters the ice chamber.

5. Never wrap the ice in paper thinking to save ice, because ice only

makes cold air by melting. Here is a place where the good and saving

housekeeper saves ice to the destruction of her food stuffs, yet this

is the hardest bit of politics to propagate.

6. If the lining gets discolored use some harmless preparation to

remove the stains.

7. It is sometimes a good idea to put a piece of waxed paper around

highly odorous foods.

8. Wash everything in the way of utensils that are put in the box.

Have a regular refrigerator set of dishes.

9. Wash vegetables before entering, for if there is anything

introduced in the way of foreign matter, the enemy alien may make for

odorous trouble.

10. Cover any receptive foods; it’s wisest even with the most

perfectly ventilated refrigerators. Liquids will dry up a bit with a

dry air circulation and egg yolks kept in water will keep better if

the water is changed daily. If dampness collects in your refrigerator

something is wrong.

11. Wash off the outside of refrigerator with damp cloth every week.

12. Remove ice rack and scrub well in water and soda weekly.

13. Boil parts (removable) twice a month or use very hot water.

14. Dry case thoroughly after every douching.

15. If the refrigerator is well connected to drain, a little hose to

flush the interior will be simple and easy.

16. The drain pipe must be carefully flushed, as here the invading

army of typhoid, etc., loves to encamp and make inroads. See to it

that the drain pipe is easily removed and cleaned and that the drain

pan (should the drain pipe have no outlet into the plumbing system) be

easily removed at least once a week to be cleaned out.

With these few words we will leave probably the most familiar bit of

household mismanagement to a reforming public, and pass on to some

floor coverings.

In the case of linoleum and similar floorings we will take for granted

that they are perfectly laid down and that all that there is for us to

think about is the nursing of them. Even the cheaper (printed and not

inlay) of these floorings will last years if the following suggestions

are absorbed and put into regular practice:

Sweep linoleums daily. This is easy.

Use an oil mop daily.

Never use anything but a mild soap and tepid water for cleaning.

Then rinse with clear water and dry thoroughly. It should be done a

square yard at a time, each yard carefully dried before going to the

neighboring yard. Do not flood when a mop is used.

Elbow grease, mild soap and warm water are all that is necessary.

Avoid as the plague: lye, soda, potash and all cleaning inventions which

may harbor lyes!

Polishing makes the flooring last longer, of course. Colors will be

reborn each time and the floor withstand wear better. Use a good floor

wax. A home-made kind, if you can’t buy any of the finest kinds on the

market, can be made of beeswax and turpentine in equal parts. Use all

the polishes sparingly and not more than once a month. Rub in well,

however, when you are doing it.

It is well to have glass or metal caps on heavy furniture as narrow

castors are prone to furrow.

For cork floors:

Sweep daily.

They must be washed with tepid water and weak soap.

Polishing is unnecessary.

Floors of tiles, etc., should be swept daily. Flush with warm water.

Scrub once a week, strong soap and elbow grease. Soda and water will

remove stains. If not, use a weak hydrochloric acid or oxalic acid and

wash off immediately with water and soap which will stop the further

action of the acid on the tile. (One part of acid to two parts of

water.)

Wooden floors also should be swept daily. Swab (don’t scrub a varnished

or painted floor) with warm water and weak soap. Keep hardwood floors

free from grit, which bites and grays. Use a soft dry mop of felt or the

brushes the reliable manufacturers make for the hardwood floors.

Occasionally wipe off with some well known and tested floor finish.

To-day with rustless and ordinary steel the problem of cutlery is

simpler and yet more diversified. In the case of cleaning and scouring

ordinary steel you can use almost any good scouring powder, but not in

the case of the stainless rustless variety, as it reduces the polish,

the very thing that maintains imperviousness to rust and stain. Cutlery

should be cleaned immediately after using.

Sharpening knives is best done by an expert. Yet there are good rotary

sharpeners and stones and steels for home usefulness or knife

destruction depending upon how they are used. Remember when you use a

stone not to feel that you must cut through the stone itself and that

what you are trying to do is to flatten the edge of the knife and wear

off the offending bluntnesses. The ideal thing is once or twice a year

to send the knives to a grinder and then occasionally at home run the

knife blade flatly over a carborundum stone to get a smoother edge.

The stainless steel cutlery has a special kind of sharpening stone at

present on the market and it is well to use this.

Good knives need no further edging when new.

But though you may have the best steel and the best sharpening, if you

house your knives badly you will have lost all the good from these

things that there is. It is not good for knives to be huddled together.

They get as cutting as humans would in the same position. If they live

in a small place together without their own places they, as people, wear

on each other. They knick each other’s blades and spoil each other’s

usefulness. Knives should be hung or laid in grooves. A box is now made

for the proper housing of them. You can, too, hang each knife on a

spring which you can get at a hardware shop. If you reserve a tenement

house law for the knives of your household you will have real health and

help from them.

The same story holds for forks. It would be a good thing to have a

_verboten_ sign in your kitchen, reading: “It is forbidden to open cans,

uncork bottles, unlock oven doors, pry open ice chests, take a nail out

of a box with the forks in this kitchen.”

In the case of wooden handles, do not let them remain soaking in hot

water for ages. Wash and clean them at once.

FLOOR COVERINGS

Floor coverings such as mattings and carpets are to-day best taken care

of by the vacuum cleaner. Hot water cloths with a suspicion of ammonia

laid on top of matting are supposed to be a good thing for its longevity

after it is vacuumed.

Carpets are now coming back into being after years of retrogressive

hate. Now on account of the vacuum cleaner they can be used in all their

warmth and beauty and kept sanitary for ordinary uses by the vacuum

cleaner. Talking of this:

The only thing that this instrument of redemption needs is oiling, but

not too often; an occasional dusting off; and the emptying of the dust

over something that doesn’t give it back.

Stoves of themselves don’t get very dirty. It is the foods that are the

transgressors. It is wisest to clean all stoves when cold. Use kerosene

or stove black. In the case of the gas stove, when the gas vents become

clogged by drippings of food it is well at least once a week to take

them out and emerse in soda and water. Wipe off grease and grit before

cleaning surface of stove and always remove dirt at once. If grease is

removed after every using of the stove, it will be very easily

maintained in cleanliness and it will never run away with you.

The trays under the burners in gas stoves should be cleaned often and

well. Burners of oil stoves, too, can be immersed in soda and water.

About one quart of water and one-quarter pound of soda make a good

cleaning solution.

SOME MISCELLANIES

Don’t let any solid foods get into the sink. Always have a good sink

strainer. Soda and water is a good cleaner. Flush sink with hot water

and clean it at least three times a day. Grease is a forbidden quantity

in a sink and should any get in, the hot water flushing will

disintegrate it. Warm water and soap, fine powders such as whiting,

etc., will keep porcelain sinks in good order.

Nickel can be cleaned with soap and water and polished with ungritty,

well devised polishes. Never use anything that will scratch it.

Boil iron in soda and water, rub with some good powder with a bit of

scratch in it. Use hot soap suds. Dry while it is hot.

Do not use soap on aluminum; there are regular aluminum cleaners on the

market. Occasionally only use a little acid, such as lemon or tomato

diluted. Never use soda.

Boil agate in soda water. Wash in hot soap suds and dry.

Use dilute oxalic acid for cleaning brass, fine powder, plenty of water.

Polish with metal polish which abounds on the present market.

Tin can be cleaned with soda and water, but do not leave it in this

solution long, as the alkali will eat the tin. Wash and dry at once or

you will have rust on your tin ware.

The silver story is long but well known. The only thing not to do is to

use gritty powders that will scratch. Wash your silver after cleaning,

as the cleaning mixtures do not make good appetizers.

In caring for electric ironers and washing machines, first of all read

the directions that come with them. Oil as they tell you or don’t oil;

too much oil is bad and too little is bad. Do not overload (with

clothes) your cylinder or your drum; some motors rebel and there is

trouble. When buying your washer be sure to tell the electrician what

kind of electricity you consume, whether it is A C or D C; also the

voltage of your circuit. This applies to all electric machinery.

Don’t leave your electricity on when you are not using a device. If you

do in the case of the iron, you will have fires and all kinds of

trouble. Don’t blame the machine for faults of your own. Remember in the

case of the electrical ironer that heat is hot and that if you leave a

piece of goods on the roll and the motor going you will burn your

article.

These things are cleaned with warm water and polished and dusted in

accordance with the ordinary metal needs. There is little to say about

their upkeep except what has been said about other devices. Follow the

directions of the makers; they know the exigencies of their offspring.

Soft cloths and warm water are best for cleaning white wood enamel.

Soaps yellow the enamel, so a few drops of ammonia added to a pail of

water will help banish grease.

Warm water and soap or soda and warm water will clean off marble tops.

In the long life-assurance of metals generally, it must be born in mind

that in order to keep them clean and bright things must be used that

will not scratch, corrode or roughen--or at least do as little of these

things as possible. In the case of silver cleaning the aluminum pan

method is best because there is less corrosion and less roughening.

Rubbing with soft chamois and cloths after cleaning will give the metal

the polish it often needs. Buffing and the use of pumice powders and

pastes help along the better finishes. But these things all must be done

in moderation to preserve the life of these metals. The more precious

gold or silver must be treated of course with great care. Chemicals are

dangerous and the best acids are lemon and those things which cannot

poison. Many combinations are poisonous and must be used with discretion

and the article well washed before using.

Were the space allotted for this story greater we could take up many

more things, but space being the rarest of commodities we shall have to

end with one last admonition:

When your devices do not work, as guaranteed, first look to yourself or

assistant and see what is wrong. Then if you find you can absolve

yourself from the great transgression--carelessness or ignorance--it

will be time enough to attack the dealer and get redress.

CHAPTER XLIV

A FEW SUGGESTIVE BOOKS

The following list is to give the reader a handle to the subjects

lightly touched in this volume.

_The Home._ Charlotte Perkins Gilman, C. P. Gilman.

_Housewifery._ I. R. Balderston, Lippincott.

_The Business of the Household._ C. W. Taber, Lippincott.

_The Principles and Practice of Plumbing._ C. C. Cosgrove, Standard

Plumbing Manufacturing Co., Pittsburg.

_Sanitation Practically Applied._ H. G. Wood, John Wylie & Sons.

_Kitchen Fire and How to Run It._ S. S. Wright, S.S. Wright.

_Formulas for Soaps and Cleaning Compounds._ Automatic Electric Washer

Co., Newton, Iowa.

_Electric Cooking, Heating and Cleaning._ Out of print but in

Libraries, Maud Lancaster, D. Van Nostrand Co.

_Harpers’ Every Day Electricity._ Don Cameron Shafer, Harper.

_Home Canning._ Creswell and Powell, U. S. Farmers’ Bulletin 853

(Bureau of Agriculture).

_Fuels for the Household._ Marion White, Whitcomb and Barrows.

_Successful Drying Community Plant._ U. S. Dep’t. Agriculture Farmers’

Bulletin 916.

_Materials for the Household._ Circular 70, U. S. Dep’t. Bureau of

Standards.

_Safety for the Household._ Circular 75, U. S. Dep’t. Bureau of

Standards.

_The New Housekeeping._ Christine Fredericks, Doubleday Page.

_Laundering at Home._ Six Bulletins, Stains, Supplies, Cottons,

Linens, Washing Machines and Ironing Equipment. Am. Washing Machine

Mfg. Assc., Chicago.

_Little Houses._ Flagg.

_House and Garden Homes._ Condé Nast Co.

_Successful Homes and How to Build Them._ Francis White, Macmillan.

_Hand Book of Cleaning._ Sarah McLeod, Harper Brothers.

_Home and Community Hygiene._ Jean Broadhurst, J. B. Lippincott.

_Preserving, Dehydration, etc._ Government Bulletins.

_Modern Plumbing._ Starbuck, M. P. & F. Pub. Co. 200 5th Ave.

_Home Laundering._ L. Ray Balderston, L. R. Balderston.

_Domestic Engineering._ Plumbing, Heating Weekly Dec. 13-20--19.

_Good Housekeeping Institute Engineering._ Good Housekeeping.

_Vacuum Cleaning Systems._ M. S. Cooly, Heating and Ventilation

Magazine.

_Chemistry._ Herman Vulté.

_Chemistry and Physics._ May B. Arsdale, Dr. Woodhull.

_Bureau of Building Bulletin_ 1922, N. Y. C. Municipal Building. U. S.

Government Bulletins on all home problems, see the list of the U. S.

bulletins on all home processes.

_Building, Plumbing, Fire, etc._ Bulletin Bureau of Board of Standards

and Appeals, City of N. Y., Dec. 23, 1919.

_Bulletin Bureau of Board of Standards and Appeals City of N. Y._

Building, Plumbing, Fire etc., Dec. 23, 1919.

_More Leisure Hours._ Louise Read--Society for Electric Development

Pamphlet, 522 Fifth Ave.

_U. S. Government Pamphlets._ Bureau of Printing, Washington D. C.

(Sup. of Documents).

_Electrical Record._ (_Magazine_) McGraw Hill Co. Inc.

_Electrical Merchandising._ (_Magazine_) Gage Pub. Co., Inc.

_Laundry Pamphlets._ Wallace B. Harts.

Transcriber’s Notes

The language used in the source document, including unusual, archaic,

inconsistent and erroneous spelling, hyphenation and capitalisation,

has been retained, except as mentioned below. The same applies to

grammatical errors, missing words and punctuation, confusing or

contradictory texts, the inappropriate use of units, etc.

Neither spacing inconsistencies (for example between numbers and their

units) nor textual inconsistencies (for example in prices or in the

use of principal vs. principle) have been standardised.

Page xxii, ... safe and sure insect ostracizer: the caption under the

illustration is ... safe and sane insect ostracizer.

Page 6, cost calculation: as printed in the source document, despite

obvious errors and inconsistencies. Paragraph starting “It is

necessary when ordering a range ...: the closing quote mark is

lacking.

Pages 100 and 104, see Plan 1: this was not present in the source

document.

Page 131, ... mixture of 21 parts nitrogen, 79 parts of oxygen ...:

the proportions should be reversed, and should be read as parts per

100 for nitrogen and oxygen, not per 10,000.

Page 221, flavoring cream with or without condensed milk.: there may

be a comma missing between flavoring and cream.

Page 221, ... (granites frozen by oscillation and frappés ...: the

closing bracket is lacking from the source document.

Page 262, paragraph starting You are particularly interested ...: one

or more words may be missing.

Changes made:

Illustrations have been moved out of text paragraphs.

The (single) footnote has been moved to directly underneath the

paragraph to which it refers.

Some obvious minor typographical and punctuation errors have been

corrected silently.

Several tables have been split or re-arranged slightly for better

readability; in some tables ditto marks have been replaced with the

dittoed text.

Page 8: ... a filament or tungsten ... changed to ... a filament of

tungsten ....

Page 35: ... release on ringer ... changed to ... release on wringer

....

Page 36: ... six drying rods 66′ long ... changed to ... six drying

rods 66″ long ....

Page 37: ... new avid air ... changed to ... new arid air ....

Page 57: closing quote mark inserted after ... running and

installation costs?

Page 68-69: ... a figure out of the unit ... changed to ... a figure

but of the unit ....

Page 74: ... oven arrangement and unit system is so arranged ...

changed to ... oven arrangement and unit system are so arranged ....

Illustration after page 74: _Courtesy of Brainhall Leane Co._ changed

to _Courtesy of Bramhall Deane Co._

Page 141, table: Branch wastes for slop sinks changed to Branch waste

for slop sinks.

Page 245: ... is varnish and finish steamproof ... changed to ... is

varnished and finished steamproof ....

Page 260: comma inserted after ... for they hold enough water

Page 335: Heading Principles changed to PRINCIPLES.

Page 359: Temperature effect densities ... changed to Temperature

affects densities ....