But as with every department of living in this realm, things have moved

on. In this case gloriously. For since the municipalities have taken our

lives in their hands the dangers from bad filters are slight and the

need of good ones necessary but not a life-and-death matter. In short,

the excitement about filters in the home is dead but their use goes

marching on.

However, as this story will be read by inhabitants of unfiltered

municipalities and towns, whatever danger and comfort can accrue from

non-filtration or filtration of water will be evident after a glance at

this attempt to bring it to your mind. Just as this goes to press we see

in the paper that a western town of Salem has seven hundred and eighty

cases of typhoid in a population of ten thousand. Here is food for

thought!

Hundreds of towns (one firm alone has installed about 163 plants) in the

United States have municipal filtration plants. Some even oxygenate the

water by fountaining it esthetically skyward and allowing it to entice

to itself oxygen (from the free air), by which it gets life and polish

and becomes refreshing.

Some towns chlorinate the water supply. When water is chlorinated,

minute quantities of chlorine are added which absolutely destroy the

germs in the water, but do not alter its chemical or physical

characteristics in the least. The difference between a water that has

been chlorinated and one that has not been so treated is that in the

first case the germs are destroyed, but in the second case they remain

in the water to cause possible disease.

This process is rarely used in the home as the control is too difficult.

But in the case of the elaborate residence with large incumbencies in

the way of model farms, dairy, stables, machine shops, etc., it is used.

Also the smallest plants are used in the case of large swimming pools in

and out of fine residences, where, of course, the water has been found

to be bacterially degenerate and where the work of purification is not

done by a benign municipality.

To get to the roots of the matter you want water (you don’t care what

the high-browed engineer does to it) to be:

1. Colorless.

2. Tasteless.

3. Odorless.

4. Free from suspended matter.

5. With enough oxygen gas to make it refreshing and give it life.

6. Without germs or food for germs.

What you want to keep out:

1. Suspended impurities: vegetable, animal (such as the fish),

mineral, microscopical algæ (what you see on the stagnant waters),

infusoria, etc.

2. Dissolved impurities.

3. Disease germs: typhoid, cholera, etc.

What you must demand in a filter:

1. All the above.

2. Durability.

3. Simplicity of management.

4. Nearest approach possible to self cleaning. (The uncertain human

element makes many a good filter fall down.)

These four things are essential to the longevity of the filter and to

you, if you inhabit filterless vales.

Another thing suggested by the fourth article of faith above is the care

of the filter. If you have a maid you can’t be sure in what state the

filter is, unless you keep close watch or have constant inspection by a

service bureau. Slight danger from the nearly self cleaning filter can

by care be entirely eliminated. But only with care.

To clarify after its long pipe journey (probably through rusty pipes,

etc.); to insure plumbing (in case of the installed filter in the

cellar) against clogging, incrustations and general wear, accumulations

of material bound to enter the water on its trip through the pipes to

the house--due to broken water mains, fires in the city--accidents of

any kind; to give the laundry a clean appearance, for the best laundry

work availeth little if the water is murky or turbid; to polish water,

or render it free from flavor and turbidity.

When typhoid had its happy hunting ground in plumbing it was thought

quite in keeping to have typhoid cases in abundance. In Pittsburgh and

other such afflicted towns it is now felt to be a heinous sin, since

filtration has become a part of the service that towns render to their

inhabitants. In fact, all boards of health to-day feel it to be a felony

and disgrace to find a case of such a disease in the community.

So, to public-spirited citizens in unfiltered regions, your task is cut

out for you. You can get rid of muddy, dirty water by municipal

filtration plants or home filters and care.

For those who live in filtered towns the use of filters is manifest,

too.

There are various kinds of filters in use, but only two kinds are of

interest for use in the home.

1. The type affixed to spigot (or water cooler).

2. The installed filter placed in cellar or other part of the home to

filter the whole water supply.

These are divided into many technical categories, but what you are

interested in are the following questions: Do you need a filter? What

shall you have to know to buy a filter intelligently?

Rapidly stated, it is safest to buy a filter from a manufacturer who

says “my filter is not absolutely perfect but it is the nearest thing to

perfection we can get. We know our filter can render water from 90 to

100% free from bacteria, as we have had bacteriological tests made by

competent chemists.”

When you order a filter, put down on paper the answers to the following

questions, and send them to the manufacturers who will then give you

the data and prices. Choose the best manufacturer and then invest:

1. Are the fixtures all on direct water supply or are they supplied

from an open storage tank or combination of the two?

2. What are the source, nature and peculiarities of the water to be

filtered? Has it odor, taste, vegetable discoloration, clay or iron

stain?

3. What sort of water supply system do you use and what of the water

pressure? What is the size of the supply pipe? (Ask your plumber.)

4. How many gallons of water are required to be filtered per minute,

per hour or per 8, 10, 12, or 24 hours? (Ask your plumber.)

5. How many bathrooms and other water fixtures are in your home?

6. Is there a municipal plant in your town? What kind?

Since 1885 thousands of filters have been patented. Years ago the

smallest and most unreliable maker would put a filter on the market and

promise immunity from death and let it go at that, because folks are

anxious to be saved. To-day not many more than six filters are really

sold with a guarantee by reliable firms backing them. Why? Because most

of these filters were cheap and flimsy, did nothing but strain water and

strain their point as well. These small manufacturers would spring into

being one day and sink into oblivion the next. The filters, if they did

filter (not strain, only), would become breeding nests for bacteria.

Physicians feared and forbade them.

The filters on the market to-day are in varying degrees reliable,

depending greatly on their functions, on the amount of care and wear,

and how they are used. For example, coarse gravel as a medium through

which to purify water might be good to take out bits of sediment--big

bits--but it would not act on the bacteria.

In general, the materials used in filters through which the water must

pass to be purified are: sand, quartz, charcoal, cloth, paper, etc.

Another class of filters passes the water through a bougis or candle

made of unglazed porcelain (Kaolin), natural stone, artificial stone,

asbestos, diatomaceous earth, etc. The pores through which the water

flows catch the bacteria and sediment.

With this list before you you must ask yourself if you need only a

strainer. Is the water free from bacilli? Have you a municipal

chlorinating plant or filter plant? If so, any good filter will do to

strain out suspended matter; but if you are very anxious to have perfect

water you cannot go wrong by having a filter which will catch bacteria

which may have accidental entry, in any community whatever.

If you know you have dirty water and no municipal plant you cannot be

too careful as to what you use in rendering safe the water from well,

stream or any other source.

The most reliable faucet filter is the diatomaceous earthen candle type

which is simply cleaned by brushing off its soft surface and boiling

occasionally to kill furtive bacteria. The great drawback to this type

of filter is that it is not a reformer and cannot force the user to keep

it clean. Therefore it is up to the user, and as its agent told the

writer, “Filter use in a city like New York is a matter of temperament.

Some people enjoy caring for a filter in order to make a splendid water

supply fool-proof, others dislike the care and do not mind the slight

risk in any city water supply or the discoloration that is often

inherent.”

Filters, whether installed or attached to faucets, are built to fit the

occasion.

It is interesting to realize that nearly every fine home in New York,

especially on Fifth Avenue, has a filter, despite the city’s excellent

water supply. Not so much to save life, as it so often does owing to

frequent invasions of germs into even excellent water, but for the

feeling of clean unflavored, unfishy, unwoody water and for the

insurance of long life of the plumbing system--and to save deterioration

in plumbing is a thing devoutly to be wished.

Sand or quartz is the usual medium for filtration in the home. Bone char

is often added to these to destroy taste, for there is nothing as

disagreeable as water with a decided taste.

There are a few filters to-day which when installed in the cellar

consist of one or two vertical tanks attached to the water supply. In

one tank is quartz through which the water passes and in the other is

bone char to carry away flavor.

In one case the filter has a simple lever which when set at a certain

spot on the dial washes out the filter beds and frees them from

contamination.

As the impurities in the water are removed by a filter they accumulate

in a mass or cake on top of the filter bed. If this cake or matted

formation is not broken up and thoroughly disintegrated, it will roll up

during the washing process and not only clog but contaminate a filter

bed, utterly destroying its efficiency as a purifying medium, steadily

diminishing the water supply. Hence a cutting plate is placed

immediately above the bed of quartz. As soon as the operating lever is

moved to the point “Washing,” the washing current is introduced at the

bottom of the filter, the filter bed is lifted bodily upward and forced

through the cutter, which literally tears the matted film of impurities

into fragments. At the same time it thoroughly breaks up the bed,

separates and perfectly scours each grain of filtering material, by the

force of the reverse current of water in a space twice the size it

occupies during the filtering process.

The impurities having been separated from the bed and broken up into

minute particles are carried out of the filter through the waste pipe by

the reverse current of water. During this process a screen at the top of

the filter prevents the filtering material quartz from escaping out of

the filter.

In this way by the least effort--the turn of a handle--once a week--the

filter becomes a boon and not a menace. After the cleaning process is

over, a matter of from ten to twenty minutes, the lever is turned to

another point “designated in the bond” and the filter goes back to

normal. The agitated sand and char are calmed down and ready to chasten

the next lot of water.

In some localities where the water (though it may be chlorinated and

bacteria-free) is dark and turbid and full of the finest sediment, the

usual sand or quartz (even with the tiniest of spaces between the

grains) cannot prevent this hyper-fine sediment passing through into the

filter. In order to catch this impure water with its fine sediment alum

is often introduced into the filter to coagulate the fine sediment (as

you have seen the white of an egg coagulate coffee grounds) and permits

it in the “flock” to be caught as it passes through the interstices of

the filter bed.

Here you can easily see why you must be careful to give the filter

manufacturer a graphic description of your water supply. Then, too, the

installed filter, just described may be rendered useless if by any means

the pipes in the home become contaminated.

There are some filters on the market (this caution is for the unfiltered

community) which only strain.

Those fitted with paper, cloth, cotton, etc., are fine in their places,

but you must know their places.

One filter, for example, is said to be very speedy. However, in this

case (this filter is attached to the faucet) you are admonished to let

the water run for about half a minute, because, as the water ran through

before, the collection of germs must be given a chance to flow out. In

this filter the water flows in at one end through bone char and quartz

and the next time it is used the current is reversed and flows back

through the filter bed, self-washing but carrying with it the bacteria

collected on its last passage. Therefore, if you forget to let the water

run for a time, you may get your stomach full of more potent germs than

if you used the ordinary water with its occasional bacteria.

Good filters in the last analysis spell “safety first” wherever they may

be. For despite municipal intervention accidents will happen, and even

though the trouble be corrected in a short time, fifteen minutes can

prove a real menace.

There is one filter just coming to our markets, made in Germany, which

has been tried and tested and found good. It is affixed to the water

supply (direct, not in cellar) and accomplishes filtration by the

process of passage of water through a paper-like fabric of disks ¹⁄₄″

thick. These disks keep water absolutely sterile in the laboratory for

17 days but the makers, rightly, will only guarantee them for 48 hours

in order to obviate danger to their promises, through the accidents

which may happen. The test under German scrutiny proved that typhoid

germs were rendered nil for 17 days and try as they might could not

force their way through the disks.

This is a good certificate of good conduct. Sewage for example during

the war was rendered harmless as drinking material by the means of this

filter disk, so it is claimed.

Filtering, unlike sterilizing, does not take the life out of water or

make it readily absorb odors and flavors.

Remember, that some filters remove bacteria and the finest sediment only

(the candle type). Others remove sediment of all sizes and bacteria,

too; while still others kill flavor to boot. Discuss the point with your

plumber, architect, doctor and manufacturer and water department. As

with clothes so with filters: buy what suits the need and buy carefully

after securing all the advice available.

One might say pompously that the purchasing of a filter may be the

purchase of life itself, or--facetiously--that the good filter takes the

“imp” out of impure water.

CHAPTER XXXIII

OUTSTRIPPING THE GALE

Weather strips are not the caviar of the building menu--far from it.

They are a whole lot more like the roast beef with pan gravy and baked

potatoes.

Those of you who bought weather stripping years ago and either put it on

yourself or had the town carpenter tack it on, do not believe it is any

good, and at best only a “fancy fixing.” But those days are passed and

the weather strip has properly outstripped many other things in

development and has come to be no hors d’oeuvre but the pièce de

resistance of the bill-of-fare. So important has the effect of the strip

become that heating and ventilating engineers have been and are to-day

carrying on experiments, not to prove their value (no, for this has been

proven), but to have exact data to show how much fuel is saved and just

how evenly the temperature can be maintained throughout a home under

varying conditions of gale and stability outdoors and in. (See Chapter

XXXV, Heating).

THINGS THEY OBVIATE

Do you care to heat the great outdoors? This is the first important

question. If you do, how dare you with the shortage of coal to-day? Have

you sufficient coal to waste it? Is your home hard to heat? Why? Do you

like the gales and little hurricanes racing over your floors, chasing

the little snow flakes? Do you like to cultivate colds and other draught

diseases?

These are pertinent questions even if they seem impertinent. They

suggest the graphic pictures that we do not want inhabiting our homes.

These conditions can be obviated.

If you inquire from your friends who know intelligently the value of the

furnishings they use, you will get concrete figures before investing.

One conspicuous friend, Uncle Sam, says that in 1918 he saved two

million dollars’ worth of coal by the use of weather strips. And this

led the director of conservation to make the extravagant statement that

weather strips are 100% fuel conservation.

WHAT THEY ARE

In the past when the telephone had just become a household staple and

before horse cars evaporated you used to paste the weather strips on the

outside of your windows. Then they were made of cloth, or rubber or

heavy paper, and they made life slightly fair and warmer; but most of

the heat accrued by them was that which was fired in trying to raise the

windows which stuck due to the adherence of the weather strip.

To-day the weather strip is gentler and not only keeps the cold air at

bay, but keeps out the dust and noise and permits the window to go up

and down more easily because it runs on a metal track; really the

weather strip allows it to glide like magic. To move a window with the

weather stripping affixed is a pleasure which the weakest reed can

enjoy.

The dictionary says “the weather strip is a narrow strip, as wood edged

with rubber prepared to be placed over crevices, as at doors and

windows to exclude wind, rain, etc.”

This is the old weather strip. To-day they are in general metallic

tubular strips fitting into complementary depressions in metal linings

or window sashes that are designed and shaped to seal the cracks that

naturally occur between and around doors and windows and their frames,

sealing up these openings so that the elements are turned back before

they get even their noses into the house. They are made of

non-corroding, non-rustable metals such as zinc, bronze and copper, and

they keep their elasticity plus non-leakage qualities as long as, and

sometimes longer than, the building itself.

Every type of door and every type of window present different problems,

and every window or door of each type has again different problems, so

to each there must be different applications. The following will explain

more particularly than the foregoing.

THE SLIDING WINDOW

The sliding window is the most general type to be treated.

Here the top and bottom, sides and meeting rail must be considered. How

to stop leakage and seal against unwelcome callers are the problems.

At the top of the window, as in the illustration, two strips are used;

the tubular protuberance in the head of the frame nestles cosily in the

depressed concavity of the window sash. Some brands line the depression

with metal--others do not.

When the window is closed, there is a complementary interlocking device

at the rail where the upper and lower sash meet, often in the upper sash

of S shaped bronze and in the lower sash a hook-shaped copper strip.

The side of the frame upon which the window is raised and lowered is a

real problem. The weather stripping makes the window weather-proof, yet

it makes it open and shut easier than it could before the application of

the strip.

[Illustration:

_Courtesy of Monarch Metal Weatherstrip Co._

DOUBLE HUNG OR ORDINARY SLIDING WINDOW TREATMENT WITH WEATHERSTRIPS

OBVIATES DRAUGHTS, DUST AND NOISE--SAVES COAL!]

In some brands the frame lining and sash lining are of metal. In some

only the frame is metal lined. In some the frame is corrugated and the

window sash slides up and down easily as the protuberance slides into

the depression in the unlined sash furrow. In another brand two metal

tubular strips are used, the metal protuberance fitted into a metal

lined depression. Here the window slides easily and no amount of warping

can disturb the nice adjustment. In such weather strips are created

conditions which absolutely prevent the side action of windows, so hard

to cure with carpentry or cheap types of weather strips.

The lower sash is managed as is the upper, only the strips are reversed.

OTHER CASES

The casement window has its peculiarities of treatment, as have doors

and windows which open in the center.

In the casement which opens in, for example, a brass triangle is

provided with “weep holes” to drain out any water which may accumulate

on the sill and follow through into the room. The meeting rail is sealed

in a way approximately as in the sliding window.

The sill strip is peculiarly shaped to spring into its sealing power;

sometimes it is called a Z-shaped plate, each manufacturer having his

own name and pet plan.

DOORS

The door sills are made with metal, and metal strips forming a sealed

joint against warping, settling air, etc. There is a very nice device

used to prevent the cold air let into the bedroom at night from escaping

into the halls and cooling them off. On the lower edge of the door is

fitted a spring which when the door is closed by contact with the hinged

side of the frame releases a felted pad which fits tightly against the

sill of the door. This makes one’s winter immersions a pleasure, for

the bathroom, if you have one connecting with your room, as well as the

hall will be warm for your morning use.

APPLICATION

Weather strips can be applied after as well as when the house is built.

“My house is so well built,” said a friend of mine, “that it does not

need weather stripping.” If that could have been so, it was a unique

house. There is hardly a house where the wood around the doors and the

windows does not warp or shrink or do something equally obnoxious.

Whether seasoned by long processes of actual weathering or rapidly kiln

dried, wood in captivity becomes restless, and seems to strain and

struggle in its fury. Nothing can be said against the builder--it is the

nature of wood. The builder is always glad to install the strips because

then the owner does not get a chance to feel antagonistic on account of

recalcitrant windows, difficult heating, etc., and is therefore relieved

from grumbling.

The weather strip must be put on by the experts from the manufacturers

of the brand of weather strips that you buy. _Do not call in your

favorite carpenter or plumber, for he cannot do it right._ The putting

on of weather strips is a science in itself. They must be put on so as

to insure a uniform efficiency during the inevitable warpings,

shrinkings and swellings of the window. The windows have to be

conditioned carefully because the stripping must be so fixed that it

cannot be removed, if necessary to do anything to the window itself

afterwards, such as fitting new pulley cords, etc. Every window and door

offers different problems, so an expert must apply the strips to your

window and door. This is not a commodity that a baby can affix--it’s a

man sized job.

PURCHASING

Remember the weather stripping that you buy should last as long as the

life of your house. For this reason the all metal kind is the best to

buy. The metal and cloth are efficient as long as they last, and so are

other combinations; but they do not last long enough. You must get a

longevity insurance. They must be made of non-rusting, non-corroding

materials such as bronze, copper, zinc or brass manufactured to a high

degree of dependability, and subjected to the most rigid inspection and

tests for accuracy, thereby awarding the buyer a rich guarantee.

Find out from users of the brand you think you will buy, before you buy,

and see what they say and what their experience has been.

Weather strips can be put on any opening, and should the purveyor you

speak to say this or that opening cannot be properly stripped, that is

your cue for seeking elsewhere. Buy only from established makers, who

will be in business for years--because in twenty or thirty years you

might want a window adjusted.

Early in this article mention was made of the saving in fuel by Uncle

Sam. Professor Allen, of the Research Laboratory of The American Society

of Heating and Ventilating Engineers, in a letter to the writer said:

“Roughly with ordinary good house conditions we can say that the air in

a room changes every hour due to leakage around windows. With good

weather strips you reduce the leakage very considerably. Of course, this

depends upon the type of construction in the house. Some years ago I

installed a complete system of weather stripping in an entire

institution and we roughly estimated that the saving of fuel was about

15%.” Since then other tests have been made to bring the percentage of

saving of fuel from 15% to 40%.

When you think that a window shade keeps in 19.2% of warm air, think

what the fitted metal and interlocking strips can do.

The weather strip not only keeps the cold air out but actually by not

admitting the cold air allows the heated air inside to maintain the

moisture necessary for comfort. With the admission of cold air the

moisture is precipitated from the air and we have not got the proper

humidity necessary to be happy. The moisture in the home comes from

water evaporation in kitchen lavatories, air itself which comes in, etc.

The warm air can carry the humidity, but the cold air does not do it as

well, and when it strikes the warm air the latter is forced to condense.

Comfort is the main thing in the home, even more sometimes than saving

fuel bills.

“Comfort,” says Professor Allen in an address, “is the prime

consideration, more than maintaining a definite temperature. Getting the

temperature right brings comfort. We should aim at 40% to 50% of

moisture in the winter with 68 to 70 degrees.”

The fact is that the heating engineer to-day allows for about ¹⁄₃ more

heating area when the house is not weather stripped. And then, sad to

relate, at this consequent extra expense the house will be probably

unevenly heated, because some rooms will have big window and door leaks

and other rooms little leaks, so there will be overheating in some rooms

and underheating in others.

Another engineer said, “I have caught snow in my hand at a distance of

two feet from a tightly locked window in a house supposed to have better

than ordinary construction.

“What ... can better this condition? Weather strips, metal weather

strips....”

He also said in the same address on heating the home that the builder

did all he could do, with the materials he had. So there is the dilemma!

The storm window can often be obviated by weather strips. The storm

window is much more of a nuisance than the appliquéd weather strips. Who

wants to add another set of windows to be cleaned? And who enjoys the

manipulation of them in rush moments of storm and wind?

FOR WIND, DUST AND NOISE

The weather strip is the solution of the gale exposed home, of the

noise, dust and weather exposed home, of any home with windows at all.

It is not subject to depreciation but increases in value, and as the

house depreciates the weather stripping takes on the burdens of the ever

increasing depreciation and prevents any more rapid fuel consumption,

keeps down the dust infiltrations and lessens the cleaning bills. If, by

chance, the woodwork is still obstreperous the defect can always be

corrected, if a good brand of stripping has been used.

In other words, weather strips are a good investment. Good weather

strips, like any good material, are a good investment.

Much of our trouble with the heat in our homes comes from the

impossibility of even heating. Do what he will, the furnace man cannot

seem to heat the house. Often you say: “Why do you burn so much coal

and give us so little heat?” There may be other causes, but the lack of

weather stripping is very prone to be one.

QUIET AND CLEANLINESS

The charm of the house is quiet. Don’t you unconsciously gage the

dignity of the homes that you visit by the quiet of them?

The weather strip keeps much of the street noises out. It dulls and

reduces the raucousness of the clang and clatter.

Every housewife knows that the hangings next to the windows get very

dirty. She also knows that the room gets full of dust whether the

windows are closed or not. A certain amount of dust will get into the

room no matter what precautions are taken, but there will be less of it

when weather stripping is applied to the windows. This is a

consideration worthy of notice, as the servant problem to-day makes all

effort in the home more arduous and the less cleaning there is to be

done the better for all concerned.

Weather strips are not a luxury. They save money and give comfort by

maintaining an equal temperature and humidity, and by permitting more

quiet, less drafts and a minimum of dust. Finally, the weather strip is

a good investment and, although not intrinsically a thing of beauty, is

a thing of duty and lasts forever.

But remember weather strips are easy to make--cheap ones. There are many

mushroomic dealers--born to-day and dead to-morrow. Beware of them and

buy the best.

CHAPTER XXXIV

BEAUTY AND THE BATH

Probably no development of the home has mirrored human accomplishment to

such an extent as has the bathroom. We have prided ourselves on our

sanitary bathrooms; on the devices for comfort and idyllic perfection in

this, the smallest, yet the most important room in the home. We have

developed it to such a point that in new homes everyone has a bathroom

to himself with comfortable additions to fit the individual whim.

For a few decades this room has been a replica of hospital efficiency

and that has sufficed. But to-day, the artist in home-making is bringing

the bath room back to the luxury and ease seen in the boudoirs of

ancient days, the days from which we take our beautiful drawing rooms,

chambers and general schemes of decoration.

This reversion toward bathroom luxury has come about because the

ordinary bathroom has been too cold. It lacked warmth, well-being and

coziness. Then, too, bathrooms are always the smallest rooms in the

home, and for that reason can be more easily dressed in glorious sheen

and kept in harmony with the color scheme and general plan of the home.

A FRENCH BATH

A few years ago no one would have thought of having wood panels in the

bathroom--we proudly felt that we had gone beyond that stage. Yet

to-day in the elaborate combined dressing-bathrooms we find white wood

panels giving a feeling of warmth, together with almost as rich an

effect as when marble itself is used.

The French bathroom in one great house is as carefully designed as any

room in the house, even more so, for there both utility and beauty are

achieved together. Take, for example, the closet seat which looks like a

comfortable chair with cane back and seat. The seat of course, is hinged

to raise up and down. Here an ugly necessity is beautifully camouflaged

to fit in with the entire scheme of the dressing room, and it gives no

jar to the inhabitant who must, forsooth, spend many hours of careful

toilet making in this superb room. The fixtures here are gold of lovely

design, the woodwork in keeping. The floor is of large tile and spread

with rugs to add warmth and the room is lit, not only by the regular

bathroom fixtures, but also by a crystal center chandelier.

Some bathrooms even have a corner for the bathtub which transforms it

into a chaise longue.

In modern bathrooms in luxurious homes we have a reincarnation of the

art of Benvenuto Cellini in the gold wrought metal work. This is made to

harmonize with the general style of the room in which it is placed, and,

though expensive, it is easy to take care of. Besides, when you are

really making a bathroom, what does it matter if it goes into the

thousands when other rooms go into tens of thousands?

Usually only one or two bathrooms--the master’s and the

mistress’s--reach this height of gorgeousness. The others, however,

conform pretty well to the highly convenient and thoroughly delightful

rooms in the rest of the house.

THE EQUIPMENT

An interesting development, too, is the shape of the bathroom--the

departure from the rectangular. Sometimes it is octagonal, with a

radiating tiled floor and the various functioning fixtures in the far

sectors. One room which we have investigated has in one corner a sunken

marble tub and in the center the radiator. The gold work in this room is

beautiful, but practical, of a design that takes plumbing into the arts.

The thoroughly equipped woman’s bathroom must have the usual tub,

showers, lavatory, watercloset seat, a closet or two in the walls, a

table, towel rack, brackets for soap and sponge, hooks for hanging

things, scales, rugs, a chair or stool, toilet paper receptacle, mirrors

and tiling for floors and wall.

In the men’s bathrooms is added the bidet, sometimes a shaving chair and

other shaving necessities such as a special lamp for fine work. To both

these rooms can be added various things, more or less necessary

according to different people’s taste, such as the sitz bath, which is

luxurious for bathing the feet after a hard walk or a game of golf.

This article in no way intends to be a plumbing article. All it means to

do is tell you what there is new in the development of the bathroom and

leave the choice to you. See Chapter XV on plumbing where we have taken

up the necessities of plumbing fixtures. All you need to remember here

is to buy your fixtures at the best possible shop and then get the best

plumber obtainable to install them. The installation of all good

plumbing work should be in the beginning, in the plans of the architect,

for it is difficult and quite complicated to put in plumbing

installation after the house is well advanced. There is nothing quite so

important to the successful builder as the early consideration of pipe

requirements. The plumber is equipped with the sanitary code, which, of

course, the architect knows too, and any householder can get one to read

and digest. However, with a licensed plumber, a good architect and a

faithful builder, this is unnecessary.

THE BATHTUB

The most interesting fixture in the bathroom, to Americans and Britons,

at least, is the bathtub. Aside from the kitchen stove, this is the

nucleus about which our content is generated.

Civilization has been kind enough to leave us two generally used types

of bathtubs--the solid porcelain and the enamel over iron (enamel lined

or porcelain over iron) tub. The tin tub has gone out, the glass tub is

too perilous, and the porcelain or porcelain lined proves about the most

satisfactory when we can’t have marble or old Italian basins for our

bathing.

Recent advances in methods of manufacture and design have made the

choice between solid porcelain or enamel iron baths a matter of personal

liking as influenced by their fitness for positions assigned to them in

a room. On account of the losses sustained for the manufacture of clay

products, selected grades of porcelain baths are of necessity higher in

cost than the porcelain lined or enameled iron. The porcelain bath is

fine in appearance, but it is not reasonable to expect the same

perfection in shape and uniformity of glaze. This is due to the

difference in methods of manufacture, and allowance should be made for

the irregularities occasioned by the baking of glazed clay products. In

the past when English porcelain baths were being imported it was perhaps

considered distinction to have a solid porcelain bath. With the present

extensive manufacture of these products in this country, this condition

has, of course, changed. The porcelain lined bath is preferred by some

on account of its requiring less hot water to hold the desired

temperature. Against this is the fact that cheap porcelain lined baths

should be avoided.

There are some points in favor of the enameled tub. It doesn’t absorb so

much heat from the water; hence a hot bath can be obtained in it more

quickly. It is lighter in weight, therefore more easy to install in

frame houses and its plumbing is easier to handle. Furthermore, greater

uniformity can be had in its construction.

In the tub which is built into the wall, there is a tendency to neglect

proper piping conditions. When installing a solid tub, it is necessary

to build a bulkhead in back of the tub so as to take care of the waste

pipe which should be available to the plumber as it often needs a new

washer. Or it must be built against a closet wall so that the pipes are

easy to get at, or against a hall wall or some stable place.

VALVES

There are myriads of styles of faucets, vents and outlets used to-day in

tubs.

It was at first thought advisable to have the inlet as near the floor of

the tub as possible in order to make the pour of the water practically

soundless after the first inch or two came in. This is about the only

advantage of this arrangement. It is far better to have the inlet higher

up, either on top of the wall of the tub, or even in the wall above the

tub. If it is in the wall of the room it is impossible to hit your back

while bathing; and you may have a shampoo nozzle attached; or draw water

from it whether you are in the tub or not, and when necessary, fill a

pail or dish. There is more noise when the water is running into the

tub, but what of it? If you have a good door on your room, that will

silence the sound.

With the low inlet, there is a remote danger of drawing in through the

pipe dirty water from the apartment above if some one is bathing in the

tub which is a twin to yours. It is quite possible for this to happen

unless the plumbing system is very well contrived.

You can have a hot water and a cold water faucet or one faucet from

which both hot and cold come. This is a matter of taste. More often

there are two, but many people like one, so that there can be a mixture

of water, giving a comfortable temperature.

Tubs, of necessity, have to be placed in many ways. When in recesses or

in a corner, the valves, etc. can be placed at one end. When against a

wall, the piping can be placed above the bath in the wall. This method

often lends a luxurious air to a room and has been utilized in the most

elaborate ones.

THE SHOWER BATH

Nearly every modern bath has a shower of some description.

The difficulty with the shower is the splashiness of it. The first

protective device was a cloth on a bracket. This is still used to a

great extent, but the ideal arrangement is to have the shower in a

closet designed for it, opening into the room. This closet may be of

glass, marble, or tile, with a cloth curtain or a door to match the

material of which the section is built. The door should be as small as

possible. Twenty inches is quite large enough. The smaller the opening,

the less chance for the escape of water. Besides, a large door is a

nuisance to clean.

When the compartment is used there can be, besides the ordinary head

bath, a needle bath. This may consist of from eight to twelve nozzles

pointing in from the four corners of the compartment, or it may be a

series of apertures in metal pipes hung around the inside of the

compartment. When the separate compartment for the shower is not

desired, you may find a substitute for the sheet in the arrangement seen

in the Warburg bathroom--plate glass leaves. The glass sheets are

practical and not cumbersome. Nevertheless, they involve more cleaning,

and in the average home this must be considered to-day.

MIXING THE WATER

There are various propositions on the market to mix the water in the

shower so that it can not scald the bather. One manufacturer offers a

little toe pipe, with which to test the temperature of the water before

starting the bath. These things are more or less desirable and

dependable but are not at all necessary.

It is best to have the valves at the entrance as you walk into the

shower, so that your arm may not be under the flow when it begins. If

the piping is well done and the valves work, the mixture of hot and cold

water can be tempered sufficiently to be safe and comfortable. Here, as

well as in every other department of purchasing, you are told a lot of

things, and if inexperienced, you may be horribly taken in, and led to

buy a lot of unnecessary things, which though good in themselves, are

quite dispensable.

The shower bath compartment must, of course, be large enough to permit

the bather to stand inside without having to be all the time under the

shower. This is an important point. Glass doors are not necessary either

for a tiled or for a marble compartment. A light weight curtain is good,

with the smallest possible entrance. This obviates the cleaning of the

door.

Tiled floors and floors of honed marble are better for shower receptors

than are the porcelain ones. They fit into the building problem better,

can be made in any size and are less slippery. Be very careful in

selecting the plumber who puts in your shower, because unless the drain

and curb are absolutely right you will be exposed to the danger of

flooding the room and the partitions of the house.

LAVATORIES AND TABLES

The styles of these are legion. The sizes are so well standardized that

unless one wants them made according to some bizarre pattern it is not

necessary to give dimensions. The usual length is about 33″. This is

ample and graceful. The 54″ takes more space than most bathrooms can

give up to the lavatory, and makes quite unnecessary bulk. The 33″

lavatory--and any smaller size--can be made of vitrified china, which is

handsomer and less absorbent than the solid porcelain lavatory. The

vitrified china is fired, and therefore it is difficult to make in large

pieces.

Lavatories may be made for corners, or straight walls. They may have two

legs, or a center pedestal or four legs, or they may be simply hung on

brackets. Two legs, however, is the usual style, although four makes a

very luxurious looking table. The legs can be had in nickel, glass,

brass or in the handsomest types of gold, with carving or some other

kind of design.

There has been a reversion, too, in the lavatory. The new style is to

make them of imported marble, cut in one piece. With these the gold leg

is suitable, also glass which looks well and is most satisfactory, and

is easy to clean. Soft American marble is absorptive and stains easily,

so when you use marble, get the imported if possible. Another point

should be noted in buying the lavatory,--have enough space on it so

that it can hold a glass; otherwise extra cost will accrue from breakage

and ruined nerves.

In addition to the lavatory, as we have said, is the bidet, and the

dressing table. The latter is sometimes made of glass on gold, nickel or

brass standards, but it is oftener made of vitrified porcelain on four

legs.

These regal appointments are given to show how some people live.

FAUCETS

The faucets on tubs, lavatories, bidet, shower, etc., require a great

deal of care, since they must be cleaned so often. Various materials

have been used, such as cut glass, porcelain and nickel, porcelain-like

enamel, brass, silver, gold, etc. For a very rich room, gold and cut

glass, or the gold alone is beautiful. But for most rooms the porcelain

and nickel faucets are the very best and demand the least care.

All-white enamel is not durable and is hard to take care of properly.

It is very much better to have one faucet through which both hot and

cold water can flow. The faucet should have an overhang of at least 1″

from the side of the lavatory, so that it will be possible to get a

glass under it for filling or your hand under for washing, thus

obviating the necessity of filling a basin every time you want to rinse

your hands. There are fancy faucets which do not meet these

requirements, but avoid them.

Faucets which only flow when held are a curse and should only be used in

public places where the water tax is high.

What you must look out for in the floor tile is that it be as little

slippery as possible. Therefore do not get a glazed tile. More and more

floors are being tiled in colors, to match the home scheme. Also, the

dull tile obviates the squeak occasioned by the shoes touching it. This

is a minor point, but one worthy of notice.

Walls can be tiled to any height desired. In the average room the tile

is carried only 4′ 6″ up except at the point where the shower is

installed. There it should be carried up 7′.

THE CLOSET

The syphon type is, of course, the best obtainable. Many closets are

sold especially from catalog and by mail, as absolutely silent. Never,

if you can help it, buy anything of this sort from a photograph. No

closet can be absolutely silent. If there is any flow at all, complete

silence would be impossible. A minimum of noise is the best that can be

achieved, and the best makers have closets of this sort.

The bowls are generally of porcelain, and the best ones are of vitrified

china (really porcelain), which is non-absorbent and quite the thing for

this use because of the freedom from discoloration.

For general use, the less wood around the seat, the better.

The tank as a flushing medium is still about the best thing to use.

There are on the market various flush valve types, some of which operate

with a foot button on the floor or with a hand lever on the right side

of the closet. These may be good in some locations, but neither the

ordinary plumber nor the man in the house can repair them in an

emergency. The piping in the valve type of flusher requires careful

arrangement to avoid trouble.

Sometimes it is rather convenient to have the closet in a doored recess

opening into the room and available from the hall as well. This is

especially to the point when there are few bathrooms in the house.

INCIDENTAL FITTINGS

Chairs and stools are usually in white enamel or in fancy rooms are made

to match the general style which prevails in the decoration.

The question of closets in the bathroom is entirely dependent upon

individual taste. You can have the wall and mirror finished type, or the

long door regular closet, or a combination of these, with or without

full length mirror. In some rooms a glass shelved linen closet is found

to be a real convenience.

The soap racks, etc., have lately become recessed in walls. This system

is not popular, however, because, although useful and economical for

hotel or institutional use, it adds no charm to the fine bathroom.

Rather, it detracts from its dignity.

A nice way to have scales in a bathroom is to have the dial encased in

the wall, and the tray on which one stands, sunk into the floor. This

arrangement economizes space and is very welcome to fastidious people.

Plan the bathroom of your house early. Talk with your architect. Insist

upon the best and get it. Your bathroom need consist of very few things,

in the last analysis, and the wisest plan is to get the best. The cost

will be from $250 upwards, for fixtures. However, it is wisest to buy

the best you can afford so that a replacement cost is obviated. There

must be no skimping of plumbing work, because that would be a menace to

both health and wealth, and the plumbing costs no more for good material

than for bad.

CHAPTER XXXV

THE WINTER OF YOUR CONTENT

Hot or tempered air is the theme--how the air in our rooms is kept

pleasant in cold weather and not too hot--this is the duty of the

heating plant.

Furthermore, beyond the duty of the heating plant, it has been the great

civilizing influence in the life of man. Wherever the heating plant has

gone, there has man been able to regulate his work, play and goings and

comings. In this way health has been better maintained and more

regularly in work, therefore, continuous endeavor which, of course,

spells advance and civilization.

Not wishing to deprive heating engineers of their profession we shall

not drag you through tortuous technical pipes and valves, but simply

tell you what you must demand in a heating installation.--Here, unless

you are properly equipped you will add to the junk pile in quantity and

therefore waste your money by the wholesale.

First: you must decide whether you really want _hot air_ or furnace

heating. In this case the furnace heats the air and it rises through a

register in the floor or wall of your room. According to J. Byers

Holbrook, the distinguished heating engineer, this sort of heating

tarnishes your silver, your bookbindings crack and your lungs are made

either immune to poison or function in spite of the “rich air” reaching

them.

In this place it is wise to mention the pipeless heating system which is

hot air sent from the furnace to one central vent or register which is

supposed to heat the whole house. It can be used only for small houses.

It is very cheap in comparison to other systems, but it is unsafe. (See

the safer method further along in this chapter under “Bungalows.”) It is

unsafe; for example: If there be illness in one room it has to be open

to be heated therefore disease will be spread. Furthermore rooms that

are closed will get no heat, as the door must be open to receive the hot

air.

Second: there is steam heat. This is an excellent system well adapted to

residences and buildings, hotels, institutions, business houses, etc.

Third: Vacuum and Vapor, the steam circulates through the system at

practically atmospheric or greatly reduced pressure. Vapor heating is

used in residences, vacuum heating is used mostly in large buildings.

Fourth: Hot Water, which is probably best for your purposes. And with

these deterring and encouraging words we will launch directly into what

you should know before installing a hot water heating plant.

THE HEATING ENGINEER

There is such an “animal” as the heating engineer. He it is who can tell

you to an iota how much heating surface you have in your home to be

heated. He it is who can subtract and add footage and finally tell you

whether you must heat 4400 feet or 3000 feet. When you know this, of

course, you can more readily order the boiler which is best adapted to

heat such a surface.

For example, suppose you had a conservatory in one end of a large

room--your heating engineer could tell you--due to the glass

surface--how much more heat was required for this room, even had you no

flowers for your conservatory. Glass windows in a shop or in any room

add to the heat units required.

Computing heating area is not easy--because the shapes of rooms, kinds

and varieties and areas of walls and door openings come into the

problem, to say naught of the badly fitted windows and doors permitting

draughts, etc. So you see the heating and ventilating engineer has a job

that the amateur or even the steam fitter knows not of. (See Chapter

XXXIII).

Usually the householder isn’t asked about her heating plant at all. The

contractor, architect and builder fix it all up. But--we don’t hold with

this. You have to live with your heating plant, they do not--and it’s

pretty much on your head that discomfort falls. Were we building we

would be quite intimate with the heating end of life, in fact take a

heated and intensely feverish interest in it. Therefore, after your

plans, etc. are hatched, call on a heating engineer for a few

suggestions, and then go to your contractor and see from whom he is to

buy your boiler and what type. Then tell him you require certain things

in your boiler which we have listed “here below” for your winter of

content.

PRINCIPAL OF HEATING

Steam heat is, of course, heating by means of circulating steam through

pipes to radiators. This is affected by a one pipe system sometimes, or

a two pipe. The steam ascending from the boiler in one pipe and

condensing into water falls back into boiler in same pipe. In the two

system arrangement the steam ascends in one and returns in the other.

The one pipe system, of course, is cheaper but takes skill in setting,

as the pitch of it (the angle) must be perfection. In the radiators the

steam condenses and returns in separate pipes in the two pipe system.

Hot water heating is the circulation of hot water through pipes to

radiators. The heated water being lighter rises and as it cools in

giving off kind heat to you, it falls back again into the boiler where

it is again heated and takes another “rise” and so it circulates through

its system. Therefore, in all heating systems there are two main

divisions: the generation part of boiler and the circulation part of

piping throughout the house. Both parts must be perfect to insure

perfection of heating. The first part dependent on many factors, the

second on a few more. In the hot water system an expansion tank is

always placed at the top of the house in order that the overflow can be

taken care of.

BOILER PURCHASE

1. Swiftly speaking--the boiler must make every pound of coal do its

best, it should respond rapidly to climatic changes, it must be easily

fueled, shaken, regulated, cleaned, free from repairs, rust, leaks

water heat or gas and it must be easily set up in room for its use.

(All good boiler makers send you “coal information.”)

Economy in fuel and labor.

Save coal yes? But economy in coal means getting out of every pound

the maximum. So when you buy coal ask what its fuel value is? It ought

to be about 12,500 to 14,500 B. T. U.--that is, it takes to raise 100

pounds of water 1 degree Fahrenheit, 100 British Thermal units of

heat. B. T. U. is the way to measure heat units as 7 yards of satin is

the way you measure goods for a dress. The best type of boiler for the

home is the sectional, cast-iron type. In this the water is run

through tubes and presents a large number of surfaces of water to the

heat.

You must demand a boiler amply large and of the best type of

tubular--where heating is most rapid, and direct in order to save

fuel, in order too, that all the heat generated goes to heating the

house, not in warming the flue or chimney.

2. Fuel portion. These must be _deep_ to insure enough coal at least

for 8 hours of heat. So that in the morning your house will be warm

and some coal left in to be joined in lawful heating to the next

supply--leaving no interim of coolness which wastes the coal and

supplies pneumonia. It takes more coal to reheat completely than to

add heat to a heated mass of coal.

3. Boiler capacity. Find out how your boiler is rated. If its capacity

only assures you 6 hours of heating; you must not expect it to do 8 or

10. Only in the best--the very best makes, do the ratings have much

weight. Experience counts. You can tell approximately. But buy the

boiler you don’t have to force. For forcing a boiler adds to your coal

bill. Your boiler capacity must be a little _beyond_ what you actually

need. 70 degrees in zero weather is the standard. A strong

“Coal-ition” government is here necessary!

4. Rapid water heating essential.--

Water-ways thin enough to heat water rapidly. Quality and position of

heating surface must not allow for waste of heat. 65% of heating

surface should be in direct contact with heat, 35% in flue surface.

Response to your dampers will show you if you have 65% of your heating

surface in direct contact with flame! Go and see the best hot water

boiler in your vicinity--before you buy consult your engineer and ask

about others.

5. Operating must be easy “as pie.” Grates should be easily pivoted

and balanced. Arrangement must prevent all accidental dumpings of fuel

in fire pot. Coal so used as to not disappear through grate. One

boiler employs a damper rod running to the front which enables the

caretaker to open and close the smoke damper rapidly when building and

this prevents gas and smoke leakage when door is open. Such a device

as this makes a floor room in a cellar feasible. The boilers of some

companies are so beautifully contrived and finished that they are no

worse than a talking machine or upright piano in a play room. In fact

better looking!

Feed doors should be wide mouthed enough to put in easily the various

“meal time” supplies.

The ash pits must be big enough to hold ashes away from the grates.

6. Sectional construction desirable.--

These sections make it possible to enlarge a boiler; (2) to move it

into a house built completely without tearing down the house, and

obviates its sitting around in a house which is being built, a prey to

all sorts of bad treatment; (3) can be taken through any cellar door;

(4) can easily be taken apart.

7. Must be easily cleaned.--

All surfaces must be available, fire and flue parts largely self

cleaning. The surfaces can be so made that soot peels off. Flat

surfaces must be easily reached for quick cleaning, ¹⁄₄ inch soot

deposit will demand 50% more coal. So get an easily cleaned boiler or

no one will clean it at all!

Boilers should have conveniently placed doors into which cleaners can

have access. If cleaning is easy it will be done, otherwise it will

not. We made this point too, with refrigerators, etc.

8. All connections must be water tight, steam tight, gas tight. There

should be no packed or gasket joints made of rubber, asbestos, paper

or other washers in connecting joints, etc. This is very important.

Re-packing should never be necessary with _your_ boiler--the longer it

is used the tighter the sections, etc., and yet they are easily taken

apart at any moment. The nipples or valves must be easily closed and

everlastingly tight, yet easily opened.

9. The steam boiler for steam heat; the water boiler for water

heating. No straddlers must be used.

10. The best boiler is of cast-iron. It will outlast the building;

will not rust or pit. It is so built as never to need repair and it

doesn’t ever seem to wear out.

This is an investment--other kinds of boilers are finally permitted to

add a value to the junk pile by rusting, pitting, and other useless

decadences.

11. No danger in a boiler where the fire chamber is entirely

surrounded by water and steam surfaces; and when the boiler stands low

and therefore well away from the joists and woodwork. Boilers are

generally tested for 80 pounds pressure, but to operate them 2 pounds

ought to be enough, though 1 to 5 is the usual bill-of-fare.

Steam boilers should have a relief valve--when pressure builds up to

10 or 11 pounds.

12. Should be few outside fixings--should be able to be installed

without digging a pit. This, by the way, would be a good way of

starting your chat with the regal contractor, “I want a simple, fine

boiler, for which no pits must be dug, or brick enclosures.” The best

boilers only require a brick base, for obvious reasons. There should

be no alterations of building necessary, because the sectional boiler

like the sectional bookcase is made to fit in anywhere. Asbestos

covering of boiler often prevents waste of heat in the cellar.

13. Thermostatic valves come with some boilers to cut off

automatically and “set on” heat. This conserves fuel. (See section on

heat control.)

PIPING

The piping from boilers to radiators has to be done carefully. The best

steam fitter is none too good. The grade or pitch of the pipes etc., the

area of surface, the diameter _et al_ must be adapted to area to be

heated and to the system employed--all of course, is too technical for

your needs here. Only you must require care to be used here and let your

contractor know you’re “on.”

THE GAS BOILER

In this boiler you get maximum comfort and maximum heat. No coal, no

ashes, no bother, little cash. But this must be from the best makers. It

is usually more costly to operate--but--!

WATER BACKS

Boiler makers in outstanding manufacturers make excellent water heaters

in which water for laundry etc. is heated by heat which would otherwise

be unused.

RADIATORS

Radiators are the translators! They are like the English writers who

translate the Russian novel. The radiator alone tells us whether our hot

water in the boiler is being translated into heat for our comfort.

They are either curses or benefits! But they are usually the eye-sore of

the home.

In short they are a series of tubing which present a maximum of heat

radiator surface. They have valves, for controlling the heat.

If you buy the right valves, your radiators will not leak, water-hammer

or bang, or flood.

An air valve must let out the _air_ to permit the steam or water to fill

the pipes. If it doesn’t do this, it is of no use. Varying steam

pressure, flooded radiators, forced firing of boiler (which you must

avoid by having a boiler with large enough capacity) are overcome with

correct valves. The right valve saves fuel, because unnecessary amount

of pressure is not needed to force out air, the right valve copes with

dirt and dust, prevents floods, requires no adjustment. Air and steam

units cannot mix, the valve releases the air. The valves must be all

metal five years guarantee, and no adjustment necessary.

The radiator which is recessed in the wall has the advantage of being

less visible, but unless you employ heat reflectors you will lose a lot

of heat--and even with them you lose some.

Some manufacturers are doing their super-level best to build radiators

which are lovely to the eye. But, again like the upright piano, they can

be made but comparatively beautiful. Gratings can veil them but are

gratings lovely? Then too, there is a loss of heat.

One radiator company has good-looking radiators which are very

successful. Their series of columns make them able to resist high

internal pressure. The internal area of the tubes in relation to the

heating surface has been reduced to ¹⁄₄ of that run in general use. This

not only greatly increases the pressure resistance but in reducing the

internal area, the water or steam contents are likewise reduced.

There is on the market a covering for radiators which is very

satisfactory.

There is more heating surface in this type too.

The water content is ¹⁄₂ the content of other radiators. This means

quick and positive venting for steam, vapor, or hot water installations

and provides rapid circulation, causes radiator to heat up more rapidly.

AIR VENT (STEAM HEATING)

The air vent on each main, allows the air to escape so that the heat

arrives more rapidly to radiator. This of course, saves fuel.

HEAT CONTROLS

To take the heating of your home out of the area of dreams and out of

the expensive realm of “feeling,” some sort of heat regulating device is

recommended. It is foolish to say “Do you think it is warm enough?” to a

group in the room. For no two will think alike!

Apart from this, the perfect thermostat not only tells you at what

temperature is your house, not only keeps the house evenly heated, but

in doing this saves you fuel, expense, illness and what not.

By simple mechanical means the thermostat opens and closes the door of

the furnace as the heat needs to be lowered or increased. In this way if

less heat is required, the door closes, and less coal is used etc.

Thereby another simple yet ingenious device. The thermostat can be set

to do these things at any _time_ you wish it to be done. If you want the

damper opened at 7 A.M., so it will be done--and you don’t need to go in

your pajamas boiler-ward!

There are two or three excellent thermostats on the market and many not

so good. Be sure you consult before investing. The best thermostats have

no corroding, or wearing parts, look well and prove themselves

thoroughbreds.

The thermostat prevents cooling off of the boiler which means starting a

fire over again--which means wasted fuel. All means must be taken

against such waste. Much coal is lost in uneven combustion, some coal

being entirely wasted. The thermostat prevents this, by ordering a

steady, definite consumption of coal.

It takes far less coal to heat hot or tempered return water than to heat

cold--the thermostat prevents the cooling down entirely.

THE BUNGALOW OWNER

There is now on the market a hot water boiler which is compact and

good-looking which if put into a cellarless house heats it with the

efficiency of the subterranean boiler! This is done through pipes and

radiators and with a maximum comfort and a minimum care.

HEAT’S INFLUENCE

It is usable in schools, cottages, etc., and bids well to civilize

sections of the world which have starved for heat and consequently have

been stunted in physical and mental growth. This boiler is the Ford of

boilers, giving unto every man the right to be comfortable wherever he

lives!

HEATING WITH OIL

Oil heaters for special rooms are made by the principal oilstove makers.

These give good results but of course are not comparable to hot water

heating, steam etc., plants.

ELECTRIC HEATING

As yet heating a house by electricity is too expensive and isn’t done

except by small comforting heaters which heat one room at a time. These

are very clean and efficient and not expensive.

HOT WATER HEATING

The problem of heating water is of serious dimensions for life without

hot water to civilized man and woman is a poor struggle.

At present there are on the market, distinct from the usual hot water

plant installed in properly built and equipped houses--many different

and efficient heaters and boilers.

In houses where there is no hot water central plant there can be bought

for moderate rates an electric heater which is attached to the faucet in

tub or wash basin or sink and through its system of copper coils over

which the water flows through, you can get hot water immediately! This

needs be but connected to your electric light circuit--outlet or

fixture.

Then there are large circulation water heaters of electrical contriving

which of course has to be separately connected--as the (Wattage) heating

unit is rated at about 660 watts! These heaters are of excellent

construction, but in most vicinities as yet--electricity is too

expensive to use thus. This is controlled from any place in the house,

so you need not go down in cellar to start a hot water “anything!” In

the best of these it is possible to turn on more heat or less from

original source by the use of multiple heat switches.

All conductors must be insulated, these heaters should be easily

installed. There is possible here hot water without ashes, gas fumes,

fire risks--and desired temperature at will! It is a fine hurry device

for the sometimes opened country house. In winter it is a boon.

[Illustration:

_Courtesy of National Electric Water Heater Corp._

A METHOD OF HEATING WATER BY MEANS OF A FAUCET ATTACHMENT]

Then of course there are the little electric emersion heaters. This is a

heating unit which is dropped into the water basin, pitcher, tea-pot or

what not and attached to electric light bulb very quickly heats your

water.

GAS

The gas heater up to date has been most reliable and efficient.

There are many good gas heaters too on the market, which when you turn

on the water start the fire! These are rapid and have given very good

results.

There are many “boiler” heated water schemes--the water backs on gas and

coal stoves etc. Then too a very efficient method is using the heat

(over) not used in the sectional boiler for heating the house. This is

effectively used in auxiliary boilers for heating hot water. Some firms

are rightly proud of this contrivance as it is inexpensive, ample and

convenient.

CHAPTER XXXVI

OUTLETS SAVE YOUR INCOME

Let there be light and there was none--is the verdict of many an

estimator who goes over a home after it is built and sees the occupants

laboring to read, sew, game or cook according to their separate desires.

And so to take the “bull by the horns” and begin with the practical

first--one of the best ways to get proper lighting is to have sufficient

outlets for electricity, portable lamps with oil and enumerable fixtures

with gas.

This will deal specifically with electric light, yet the general

principals will apply to all other lighting.

LIGHTING

Good lighting can mean good health. Eye strain is often the cause of

depleted systems, indigestion and things that lead to other calamities.

Many a doctor would better analyze a home to see what could afflict the

sufferer than analyze the patient!

Flickering lights strain the eye, because it cannot adapt itself to the

rapid variations in intensity. So the flickering light must go. Lights

that are too bright hurt the eye, lights that are dim cause strain, all

in turn having disastrous effect on sight and on health--these too must

perish.

The best sort of lighting, of course, is the diffused light which

without glare is sufficient for reading, etc. Here, though, the

distribution may be so imperfect that the glow is dispiriting and

consequently a light softener in the guise of a lamp shade or frosted

dulled glass helps the situation.

The indirect lighting system, is popular to-day. When buying this type

you must be sure to get them as dust and bug proof as possible. The

simpler they are the easier to keep clean, of course.

Money can be saved by having outlets at frequent intervals, so that

lamps can be attached at the point needed, rather than having to light

many lamps at various ridiculous places in a room as contributory

lights.

Fixtures which have lights set obliquely in them are hard on the eyes,

lights are not meant to shoot light in your face but to supply aid

quickly and politely to the eye. Fixtures should have their globes, in

the perpendicular.

HEIGHT OF LIGHTS

Lights should be high enough only to cast a direct light on the subject

in hand. The reading lamp must help the reader, not impede him. Try over

and over again until it is placed correctly. The shade should be such

that it not only directs and diffuses the light, but softens and subdues

and makes it a pleasant thing to the eye.

Very often dim lights can be magnified by a reflector. Never, though,

can a reflector actually increase the light, that is to say, the

reflector doesn’t increase the electric power or size of lamps but

simply reflecting more than absorbing, the light gives you its fuller

value.

REFLECTION

You are probably aware that certain colors absorb or reflect in varying

degrees. Usually in the papering of rooms no account is taken at all of

this perfectly honest color vagary. Consequently, a dark room is often

somberly decked in deep chocolate paper and therefore you get something

like 4% reflection whereas in that room white would reflect about 70%

and a wall yellow painted would reflect about 62%, thereby saving the

necessity of just that much more lighting.

Green reflects about 18%, blue 12%, so you can see here what to do with

certain rooms that should be dimmer or brighter.

In the same way shades of globes enhance or detract in reflection

capacity.

Clear glass absorbs about 5-12% of light and cobalt blue about 95%, so

here you see if you have a lamp absorbing 95% of light--that you will

need more lamps than one absorbing but 5%! Think on these things.

LIGHT MEASUREMENTS

The foot candle is the unit of light measurement. A standard candle has

been decided upon and all lighting calculated on this basis. We say we

have 16 candle power lamp that it means it gives light of 16 of these

standard candles. From a 60 watt lamp the candle power obtained from a

tungsten is 56 candle power. A saving in money is had if the tungsten

though more expensive is used.

COST OF LIGHT, ELECTRIC

The amount of electricity taken by a lamp is measured in watts--

Watts ÷ 1000 equals Kilowatts

Kilowatts × hours equals Kilowatt hours

Kilowatt hours × rate equals cost.

(See Chapter I on Electricity.)

Economy is quite possible here as in burning oil or any thing else. If

your lights are well placed, you need less light, if they have not too

absorbent globes you will also need to use less light, if you have

proper wall tints, etc. You often need fewer lamps. One good lamp in the

right place saves two or three wrongly placed.

The Tungsten filaments burn brighter and more cheaply than the old

filament of carbon. There is a saving of electricity somewhere around

50% in the use of new filament.

THE INCANDESCENT LIGHT

That brings us to the story of the incandescent lamp--

Incandescent means to glow with heat--In short the incandescent light is

one which employs a globe in which the air has been exhausted and in

which a vacuum exists. Before the air has been exhausted a filament of

metal has been affixed through which the current of electricity is

passed. In the resistance of this current the filament glows and gives

the light that you use.

Don’t take any lamp you can get. Ask for the number of candle power or

watts you want. The lamps to-day are more popularly sold according to

watts rather than candle power.

INDIRECT AND DIRECT LIGHTING

Of course there is a loss every time the light is reflected through a

diffusing medium. In correct direct lighting most of the light is only

reflected once before using point. In indirect lighting it has one more

reflection (at ceiling) causing a loss hardly much less than 25% and

maybe more. The diffusing bowls throw a large part of the light--in

semi-direct lighting--where there is a similar loss and the part of the

light which goes through the bowl is considerably reduced by

absorption. Naturally direct lighting is most efficient. Yet lighting is

a matter of diffusion of light and often the indirect system gives not

only more joy but better illumination with no greater consumption of

power than direct lighting.

Avoid shallow reflectors not covering filament (or mantle in gas lamps).

The plain electric glass shades through which the source of light is

plainly seen are practically nil. They absorb more light than a good

reflector and do no good--unless to look a wee bit better than a bare

lamp. Ground glass is a better thing but poor enough.

Colored shades do absorb light but they are decorative--a combination of

white reflectors and colored shades is often a good trick.

SPECIAL ROOM SERVICE

In lighting rooms remember their special needs. It is very unpleasant to

have a light unshielded by a shade of some sort as the eye rebels

against the sharp concentration of light.

DINING ROOM DOMES

Dining room domes are like mountains of flowers--obstruct the view and

make you hurdle to see a diner opposite to you. They should be hung high

enough not to become obstructive to the view and low enough not to throw

light in your eyes. If this can’t be done, hang it high rather than low

and cover the opening of the dome with a material somewhat alike in

color to the dome.

THE BEDROOM

Have your fixtures on the side walls and plenty of them. Yet in some

bedrooms, there are often three lights used when one properly placed

would be enough! Think of the money outlay! A few outlets in convenient

places will make it easy to use the vibrator, electric pad, shaving

stand etc.

THE KITCHEN AND CLOSETS

Over the sink if necessary a small light can be placed. All dark closets

should have an electric light; which can be switched on from the outside

of the closet. It is a real sanitary measure to say nothing else of the

ancient blind groping in a dark cupboard for these things--which roll

and break in the groping! Blind sport--Electric lights in all closets

are not luxuries now they are nervous prostration preventives! Light is

a detective. Nothing bad can survive in the light! Dirt is revealed, bad

conditions laid bare--hence the light works for good! Closets need

light, shelves as well need light to visualize little corner lurkings!

A good light in the vestibule is often a perfect chaperon for youth!

The shaving mug and stand need careful lighting to prevent discomfort

and inadvertent cuts.

The cellar can be a lonesome spot if not properly lighted. No one will

clean it. A switch upstairs to light the cellar before going below, with

enough other lights will do much to “sell” the cellar as a usable,

cleanable room.

Flexible lights for desks are great comforts. There are countless

decorative as well as practical desk lamps on the market to-day.

Although the primary object of lighting is to light, yet the market

to-day has any number of fixtures which seem primarily for artistic

purposes. And we must say that the fixture makers have a long way to go

yet in the sheer beauty field--as have most non-custom made products.

ARCHITECTS

Don’t leave your lighting to your architects. Illuminating engineers are

good but you can even be more illuminating by knowing your own needs and

habits.

There is no excuse with electricity in not having your lights where you

want them. Buy the right lights to save your health and eyes.

Talk to your contractor before the house is “let” for building. Here is

the time to talk outlets!

IN FINALE

1. Clean globes mean more light. Don’t think you don’t have to clean

electric lights. You waste money on electricity with every grain of

dust on your globes.

2. Tired eyes often mean too few lights or light placed in wrong

places.

3. Remember don’t always blame cook or work for indigestion, it may be

your eyes from bad lighting.

4. A bare lamp if it must be used should be above the eye line, always

use a shade.

5. Too much is as bad as too little; both strain the eye.

6. In low ceilinged rooms use two or three side small lamps rather

than one large one.

7. Remember ask for the size lamp you want, don’t just say “I want a

lamp.”

8. If you don’t understand lamps, go to a library and read or consult

a good electrician, or go through some one’s home.

9. Standard plugs throughout the whole house so that all connections

can be made at any outlet.

10. It is wiser to have more rather than too few outlets.

11. Switches--remember you can have lights so arranged to snap on and

off in the closets by a switch on the outside. (1) You can have

switches (3 and 4 way switches) that enable you to light the light

upstairs from downstairs and turn it off when you get upstairs and

turn it on again either up or downstairs. (2) Side wall switches--near

doors as you enter; (3) Another switch to turn on all lights in house

at once in case of danger.

SOME SUGGESTED NOVELTIES

There is a “cute” little thing now to be had to prevent you bumping your

shins on a table when leaving the room--a light that when you put it out

stays lit one minute after you pull the chain!

CORD DIVIDER

There is also a device which connects the long electric cord so that you

can easily lengthen or shorten it without calling in an electrician.

TINTING

Lacquers for globes can be bought whereby you can reduce the glare of

the ordinary lamp at will or even color them to suit.

PRINCIPLES

First principle is that diffusion of light is necessary in order to see

the object clearly and pleasantly. (2) Brightness is to be avoided. No

general rule can be given for number of foot candles--different

rooms--whether dark or light in decoration--need different treatment.

Experiment and experience are the only arbiters here.

Some rules: (1) _Avoid flickering light_--fatigue and nerves result from

flickers. (2) _Use shaded lamps._ More diffused light from a large

source gives better light than from a small. (3) _Don’t judge the light

by the lamp._ The lamp doesn’t give light. The light which comes

directly from the lamp to the eye does no good and may interfere with

the useful light which has gone from the lamp to the surrounding objects

and thence to the eye.

(4) _Do not face the light._ It is well to have the light from above

over the left shoulder. This plan obviates the shining surfaces of

paper, table tops etc. from interfering with pleasant seeing. In this

way too, you do not see the lamp itself. If you have to shade your book

the light is wrong for _you_. (5) _Avoid brilliant reflection_ of the

lamp. (No matter how brilliant your own reflection may be!) Glossy paper

in books especially for children should be “verboten.” (6) _Keep lamp

away from your work_, your eye likes not to concentrate on concentrated

light. The desk light or factory light lying “away” rather than “next

to” is far better for worker. A special reading lamp is good but is

often pleasanter when used in connection with a soft general lighting.

(7) _Vertical light carrying fixtures_ are best--old ones can be bent to

carry light vertically.

CHAPTER XXXVII

TIN WARE, RUBBER AND PAPER

Tin is one of the oldest metals in the world. The Ancient Greeks and the

Ancient Hebrews made mention of it frequently.

Before the advent of the Kingly Aluminum and the Queenly Enamels,

agates, granites etc., tin was used extensively in the kitchen, but now

the cooking utensil is very rarely tin and rightly so.

However, tin still remains a good thing for various things in the home

and is well worth employing in different ways. These ways will interest

you to consider.

However--firstly--all things made of tin to-day are but steel or iron

dip and coated with tin.

Tin melts at a comparatively low temperature and is besides affected by

acids. That is why baking, stewing, etc. are not to be done with tin

utensils plus acid food. The dark rings on baked apples cooked in a tin

dish show very plainly what acid and tin do in combination.

In buying tin the criterion is its weight. It is only wise to buy tin

ware in the best shops, because small, but out of the way hardware shops

can rarely afford to keep on hand the best tinware.

It should, of course, adhere closely to the lines of all other utensils

in that it must be smoothe without rough globules, without seams, which

might catch food or dust particles to create an aftermath condition

difficult to rectify.

CLEANING

Put tin to be cleaned in hot soda, never more than 5 minutes because the

tin will dissolve somewhat, as the heat and soda meet and though it will

disintegrate the grease it will make the iron or steel base show

through. But with more fine powder like whiting, rinse hot, and dry

while hot. Tin will rust so it is best to dry while “the tin is hot!”

JAPAN

Among the most useful and jaunty things in tin is the so-called Japan

wear which is but painted tin.

Bread and cake boxes in different colors, with and without shelves,

sliding doors and in varying fasteners to suit your fancy. These are

light and easier to manage than the shiny metallic ones and easier to

clean out than the wooden ones.

CAKE CUTTERS

There is no reason either why you cannot use the less expensive tin cake

cutters in their multitudinous designs. They are keen cutting and light

and very durable.

GALVANIZED

Galvanized wear--is usually steel heated to a special finish of tin.

Some of the things in this material are most useful and necessary--for

example, the refrigerator drain pan, garbage pail and ash can. These are

extra heavy and withstand wear and jouncing.

For the less elaborate kitchen, the tin muffin pans, funnels and pie

plates are useful yet not as good as other kitchen wear such as the

Aluminum and Enamels.

NECESSITIES NOT KNOWN

The ideal Christmas tree holder which keeps the tree fresh for months on

account of its simple reservoir for water is really something well worth

knowing about. It holds the tree very steady and is japanned in a dull

green.

For country or suburban homes the out-door incinerator, a perforated

tinned container, permits the burning of rubbish without danger from

blowing cinders; of course, this is not meant to burn fats and animal

refuse. An incinerator (see Chapter XIII) of another order is necessary

for this.

There is no reason whatever, however, why the copper bottom wash boilers

whose numbers and designs are legion should not be used. As they are

light in weight and durable.

The galvanized coal scuttle, flour bin--japanned or plain heavy tin, is

not a pariah even yet.

If you have the “tin,” it is usual for you to buy the better metals. Yet

there are quite legitimate uses for tin. There are some householders who

have tin ware left over from the past. To those, however, we can say

don’t let it worry you; as they die out replace them with better, if you

care to, but be loyal to what you have used if they have served.

No one recommends tin to-day for cookery when on the market are ideal

cooking utensils, but what we do wish to convey to you in this chapter

is that tin has very legitimate uses.

For example spice, sugar, coffee etc. canisters in white enamel tin,

brown, black etc. with gold lines. These are not as autocratic as the

blue and white china but they will outlast any such delightful and much

to be desired shelf trousseau. A kitchen in white with white enameled

tin containers is a very pretty thing to contemplate.

Some of the heavier tin ware is iron or steel dipped in tin, this, of

course, is very resistant and enduring and not particularly cheap.

Agates, enamels etc. are merely steel and iron covered with layers of

composition that when dry are made up to resist cookery onslaught.

ICE-CREAM FREEZERS

There are two or three very interesting and effective ice cream freezers

made of tin. There is one in fact so built as to need no turning.

TRAYS

Tin trays are invaluable as they come in all sizes and are exceedingly

light. They come plain, japanned and some decorated--but any one with a

sense of paint and form can make an ordinary tin tray a thing of

joy--while for the most part the tin ware houses execrably decorate the

trays! A word to the wise!

RUBBER

The rubber wear that is used in kitchens is not extensive but what is

used is indispensable.

For preserving, of course, the rubber ring to tightly close certain jars

is a necessity and the best is none too good to buy. Unless you have the

best here you are cheated by breakage.

Rubber gloves for kitchenette and kitchen use save and prevent breakage,

they also prevent the sink becoming “holey.” For “holey” sinks are

horrible to contemplate!

Some people like perforated rubber mats on linoleum or tiled floors and

on kitchen hallways and stairs. These wear for a long time.

A few rubber corks to have on hand in the home often helps you out of a

dilemma of temporary corkage.

Rubber brushes for sink use in combination with tin are useful and can

be well scoured and kept in condition.

Rubber gloves for kitchenette and kitchen use save the hands and are

worth their weight in radium. If more women used them, the house work

problem would be less like martyrdom. They preserve the hands, health as

well as beauty, in fact could anything be “handier?”

Rubber is used for door steps to preserve the door surface and to

prevent noise. It is also used on the tip end of legs of tables and

chairs to preserve floors and rugs and to diminish noise.

This is about the full list of rubber things for the house except,

perhaps, the rubber heel for maids’ and butlers’ shoes and rubber

stoppers for sinks.

PAPER

The uses of paper in the home are not so many.

Shelving in the pantry or kitchen can be kept in renewed health with

paper, laces of course.

The bungalow, or motor trip or picnic can be well supplied with paper

and fiber plates.

Rather would we warn you against paper uses! such as wrapping up your

ice to preserve it, to spoil food, wrapping up your food stuffs in paper

in refrigerator, greasing muffin pan with paper for which you should use

a brush.

Sometimes, however, a piece of paper will clean off the top of the stove

very efficiently, yet even here a brush would be better.

Clean brown paper to absorb French frys (potato) is quite indispensable.

The paper napkin has made its place even in the homes of wealth.

Wax paper is a delight to wrap up sandwiches and keep bread stuffs and

cake fresh.

Paper lining for drawers, of course, is necessary.

The pretty paper lace doily for under finger bowls, cake and bread,

these are delightfully pretty and save the linen, the laundress and the

laundry list.

CHOP PAPERS

Paper “golf stockings” for chop bones, poultry legs etc. are decorative.

CHARLOTTE RUSSE

Vegetables and charlotte russe are often, too, served in the paper cup.

Which, by the way reminds me that in large kitchens the paper cup is

indispensable.

In this place it would be well to say that a pad--a writing pad--should

be in every kitchen for multitudinous listings and memos. No kitchen is

a perfect one that isn’t “padded.” In fact it is a sell if it isn’t!

CHAPTER XXXVIII

COME OUT OF THE PARLOR

If I were a cook (of course, being a democrat, I aspire to no such

plutocratic eminence, but were I a cook), I should want to have for my

use a number of culinary accessories to make life more rosy, more serene

and even more delightful than it naturally must be.