A heavy blow had now been inflicted upon the Chinese, by the severe
reverses they had met with at Ningpo and at Chinhae, and by the
defeat of all their designs against Chusan. It was, therefore, a
favourable opportunity to follow up our successes and turn them to
the best advantage, before the effect of the impression already made
could have time to diminish. It was ascertained that their troops had
with difficulty been kept together after their late defeat; and it
was reported that they were about to retreat towards Pickwan, a town
situated about forty miles higher up the river, at which point they
were said to be concentrating their whole force.
Besides the force said to be encamped above Tsekee, on the Segoan
hills, it was also ascertained that another body of five or six
thousand men was posted in a fortified camp, about seven miles further
along the hills to the north-east, close to what is called the Chungkie
Pass, and that the military chest of the army was in charge of this
division. A Chinese military chest is generally not very well filled,
but still there is to a soldier something very tempting in the idea of
an enemy's _military chest_, particularly when there is a prospect of
capturing it.
On the morning of the 15th of March, the force destined for the attack,
comprising altogether little more than a thousand men, including the
battalion of seamen and marines, were embarked on board the steamers
Nemesis, Phlegethon, and Queen, from the north gate of the city;
the General and his staff, accompanied by the Admiral and other
officers, taking up their quarters on board the Nemesis, which had
been dexterously brought close into a wharf near the city gate; so
that on this occasion the troops were embarked without the necessity
of using boats. The naval brigade was commanded by Capt. Bourchier, of
the Blonde, assisted by Capt. P. Richards. There were four 8-pounder
guns of the Madras artillery, for which ponies had been trained, and
these were now sent early in the morning across from Ningpo by land,
escorted by a party of the Madras rifles; by these means the distance
was materially shortened, by cutting off a great bend of the river
above Ningpo. On reaching the nearest point, opposite Tsekee, the
artillery swam their horses across the river, and were then drawn
up in readiness to advance upon the town, which was about four miles
distant. The road to Tsekee and the nature of the country were already
well known, from the previous visit in the month of December.
Before twelve o'clock, the troops were landed from the steamers near a
village, where there was a sort of jetty convenient for the purpose;
they then formed, and marched direct up towards the city. At the same
time, the Phlegethon was sent higher up the river, together with the
Nemesis and two boats belonging to the Cornwallis and Blonde, to
endeavour to get near enough to the flank of the Chinese army, to
harass them in their retreat.
The Phlegethon started first, because the Admiral and the General, who
were on board the Nemesis, were unwilling to land, until they had seen
all the rest of the force on shore before them. But the moment the
Admiral had left the vessel, she was backed out from the landing-place,
and went up the river for some distance, stern-foremost, at full-speed,
until she could be conveniently turned.
Having passed round a considerable bend in the river, some miles above
the landing-place, they turned up a small branch or creek close to a
village, which appeared to lead round nearer to the enemy's positions.
The Phlegethon, which was some distance ahead, suddenly came upon five
gun-boats, armed and manned, at anchor close to a mandarin station,
which proved to have been used as a depôt for powder and military
stores. Fourteen fire-rafts were also discovered, and the whole of
these warlike preparations were destroyed.
As soon as the troops had marched up pretty close to Tsekee, they
proceeded to occupy a small hill directly in front of the town, and
commanding the southern gate. A few ginjals and two guns were fired at
them from the walls of the city, but at such a distance as to make it
evident that no serious defence of the place was intended. The main
body of the Chinese army was to be seen encamped upon the heights to
the northward of the town, called the Segoan Hills; and it was equally
evident that the shortest and best mode of advancing to attack them was
by first escalading the walls of the town, and then marching straight
through it to the northern gate, whence it would be easy to attack the
enemy both in front and on the flank. It was necessary to ascertain
whether the town was occupied by any considerable force (which there
was little reason to expect), and at the same time to deprive the enemy
of having the advantage of falling back upon the town when driven from
the heights. Orders were therefore given, that the naval brigade, with
a party of sappers, covered by the guns under Colonel Montgomerie,
should escalade the walls at the nearest point, while the 49th were to
blow open the south gate, and immediately join them upon the ramparts.
The 49th, on approaching the gate, found the bridge over a canal just
outside recently destroyed; but, as the water was shallow, and there
appeared to be no likelihood of meeting with any serious opposition,
they quietly crept along the canal itself, which led into the town, and
so got under the walls, upon the ramparts of which they now found the
naval brigade already drawn up.
The 18th, in the meantime, had been sent round, outside the walls,
to dislodge a body of Chinese troops who occupied a hill a little to
the north-east of the city; and they were directed to join the rest
of our force as soon as they reached the north gate. The 26th had
been held in reserve to protect the guns, and support the 49th, if
necessary. The town was, however, carried without any resistance; and
the troops having marched round the ramparts, the whole force was then
concentrated at the north gate.
It should here be noticed, that the town of Tsekee lies in a sort of
cup, or basin, surrounded almost entirely on three sides by steep
hills, being open only towards the river, or to the southward; from
the northern hills, a low spur is sent down towards the northern gate,
and terminates in a small hill within the walls. The Chinese forces
were posted upon these heights, a little to the westward of the spur
just described, but in such a position that their left was commanded by
other hills. On their right they had a second encampment, a little in
advance, on the north-western side of the town; but it was evident that
their left could be easily turned, and that they could be defeated and
completely routed, without much difficulty.
The General's first movement was to direct the 18th, with the rifles,
to proceed to occupy a hill on his right, which could only be got at by
passing through a steep ravine, but which quite commanded the Chinese'
left. As soon as they succeeded in crowning its summit, and had thus
turned the Chinese position, the naval brigade (who, in the meantime,
were to occupy two large buildings under the walls, a little on the
north-western side of the town) were to carry the hill in their front,
on which the Chinese were encamped, while the 49th were at the same
time to attack the centre of the Chinese position.
It is worthy of remark that the Chinese, with one or two trifling
exceptions, seem never to have made use of field-artillery. Of course,
where they had forts, they had guns mounted; but they did not appear
to regard artillery as a necessary part of a regular army.
On this occasion, our loss would probably have been severe, if the
heights had been defended by a numerous artillery; but they opened a
smart fire of ginjals upon the naval brigade (the Admiral himself being
at their head), as they marched across the paddy-fields outside the
walls, with the object of occupying the two large houses, under shelter
of which they were to form, in readiness for the attack. They suffered
some loss; and, as it appeared that the 18th and rifles, being impeded
by the steepness and difficulties of the gorge they had to ascend, were
longer in reaching the summit of the hill than had been expected, the
General determined to commence the attack in front without waiting for
the 18th to turn the flank of the Chinese. The advance was sounded, and
the 49th, with the General at their head, rushed up the hill; while the
naval brigade, led by Captains Bourchier and Richards, and Commander
Watson (the Admiral himself taking part in the attack), made a dash at
the other hill, upon the Chinese' right.
Some rockets were fired with great precision into the enemy's position,
by Lieutenant Fitzjames and Mr. Jackson, of the Cornwallis, but the
Chinese poured in a heavy fire of ginjals and matchlocks upon our
troops as they advanced.
The marines and seamen dashed across the paddy-field, and charged up
the hill, which was steep and rugged, with great spirit, but were
boldly met by the Chinese, who did not shrink from the contest. The
leading division soon gained the summit, and the remainder of the
brigade pushed round the sides of the hill, to cut off the retreat of
the enemy. In this encounter two officers of the Royal Marines and two
officers of the naval battalion were wounded; eleven men were also
wounded and three killed.
The General, at the head of the 49th, in the meantime carried the
hill in his front with great spirit, and detached the grenadiers,
under Major Gough, to cut off a body of Chinese who were attempting to
get up the rear of the other hill, which had already been carried in
front by the naval brigade. This division of the enemy was, therefore,
completely hemmed in, and the slaughter was unavoidably great in the
hollow at the foot of the hill.
The 49th now continued to press forward, driving the Chinese before
them in great disorder across the plain at the foot of the hills; and
the 18th and Rifles, having by this time succeeded in turning the
enemy's position on the heights, descended into the plain, and joined
the 49th and 26th in the pursuit. The whole Chinese army was now in
full flight across the plain, towards the Chungkie Pass, and just
passed within range of the Phlegethon and Nemesis, who had taken up
an excellent position in the creek, for the purpose of cutting them
off. Their guns opened fire upon the scattered fugitives, who suffered
severely.
From eight hundred to one thousand men are supposed to have been
killed, wounded, or drowned, in this engagement; every attempt was
made to spare them, but as most of these troops came from distant
provinces, and were reputed to be their best soldiers, they refused to
surrender themselves prisoners, with few exceptions. Many officers or
mandarins were killed, but only three were taken prisoners. Many of
them deliberately cut their own throats, when they saw that the day was
irretrievably lost.
Some curious and interesting documents were found, relating to their
plans and the disposal of their forces, amongst which were some public
proclamations to be distributed among the people. Upon the bodies of
many of the slain, pieces of Sycee silver were found, as had been the
case at Ningpo, a few days before.
The strength of the Chinese army was estimated at from seven to eight
thousand men, part of which appeared to be a picked body, said to
belong to the Emperor's guard; they were fine, athletic, powerful men.
It was also remarked that their arms were of a superior description;
several improvements had been adopted; and the bow and arrow, once the
favourite weapon of the Tartar soldier, had been laid aside on this
occasion.
As usual, several personal encounters took place; the Chinese not
fearing to engage single-handed with their foe, or to measure their
sword with that of our officers. In one of these combats, Mr. Hodgson,
mate of the Cornwallis, was wounded, not far from the Admiral. Colonel
Mountain was in some danger of being run through, but was saved by a
timely shot from one of the 18th. The clothes of the slain were in some
instances ignited by their matches, and produced, as on some other
occasions, a revolting spectacle.
The night was passed, by our gallant little force, in the tents from
which the Chinese had been driven, and which were found to contain
plenty of warm coverings and provisions, &c. There were stores of rice,
and bread (cakes), and flour, in abundance.
Besides the loss already mentioned, the 49th had three officers
and four men wounded. Some of our officers were wounded severely,
Lieutenant Lane having had his arm amputated upon the field.
On the following morning, at daylight, the grain magazines in the
town, belonging to government, were opened to the people, and, as
might be expected, were rapidly emptied. A large quantity of ginjals,
matchlocks, and other warlike implements, were also collected upon the
battle-field, and were nearly all destroyed. Among other curiosities
were nine newly-invented brass tubes, of about three pounds calibre,
and thirty-nine pounds weight, each with two handles; they had never
been used, but were apparently intended to fire grape-shot. They were
curiously bound round with catgut, and were probably to be fired
while held between two men, as they were provided with handles for
the purpose. One of them was given to Captain Hall, by the Admiral,
and has since been deposited, with other Chinese weapons, at Windsor.
Twenty-three guns were also captured, principally upon the walls of the
town.
As the enemy had retreated towards the Chungkie Pass, about six or
seven miles distant to the north-west, where it was reported that
another fortified encampment had been formed, Sir Hugh Gough moved in
advance, about one o'clock on the following day, the 16th; but having
reached the foot of the hills, the position was found completely
abandoned, although it was by nature a strong one. Dispositions were
made for the attack, but none of the enemy were discovered, and
consequently the hoped-for military chest was not captured. The Chinese
had only just withdrawn, for they had left behind them some ammunition,
and a supply of inferior bread, which is tolerably eatable, however,
after a long march.
Having halted about two or three hours for rest, and after setting fire
to all the buildings, our little army returned to the town of Tsekee
the same evening.
It is proper here to remark that the peasantry, and the inhabitants
generally, except where they happened casually to be intermingled with
the soldiers during the flight, shewed little concern as to the fate of
their countrymen. They appeared to be more astonished than frightened,
particularly at the swimming of the horses of the artillery across the
river, and then seeing them harnessed to the guns.
The town of Tsekee suffered very little. A large pawnbroker's shop was
one of the greatest curiosities, being filled with furs, silks, &c. It
was a large, extensive building, like a warehouse, as is commonly the
case in China, and it afforded excellent quarters.
This engagement upon the heights of Segoan has been considered, by
military men, as the most scientifically conducted affair which
occurred during the war. Its success, at all events, was complete;
and the Chinese army, which was now concentrated to the southward of
Hang-chow-foo, for the purpose of covering the provincial capital,
against which we were expected to advance, was said to be with much
difficulty kept together, and to be in great want of supplies. The
orders of the emperor, that the province which was the seat of the war
for the time should defray all its expenses, excited much discontent,
as might be expected.
Any proposed plan of advancing upon Hang-chow-foo which might have been
thought of was now abandoned, and the great river, the Yangtze-Keang,
was designed to be the principal seat of operations during the ensuing
campaign. The vast inland trade passing through this main artery of the
empire would be stopped; the traffic by the Grand Canal would be at our
mercy; and there seemed every reason to expect that the presence of a
large military and naval force, in the heart of the country, would lead
the haughty Chinese cabinet to listen to terms of peace, which we hoped
to dictate under the walls of the ancient Chinese capital, the imperial
Nankin, the depository of the ashes of many of the ancient Emperors of
China. Some, however, looked forward to a hoped-for advance upon Pekin,
the great Tartar capital, by the river Peiho. The result, however,
ultimately proved the wisdom of the former plan of operations.
During the months of April and May, reinforcements continued to
arrive to strengthen the expedition, and the belief was general that
it was determined to put an end to the war as soon as possible, by
some means or other. A fresh corps of Bengal volunteers, a remarkably
fine body of men, arrived from Calcutta; the 41st and the 2nd native
infantry arrived from Madras, with a reinforcement of artillery, and
a few horses for the guns. Several steamers and ships of war, with
transports, continued to join in succession--namely, the Vixen from
England, and the Tenasserim, Auckland, Ariadne, Medusa, and the little
Hooghly steamers, belonging to the East India Company, from Bombay and
Calcutta, all well armed, and some of them peculiarly adapted for river
navigation.
The Chinese, finding that they met with no success against us in the
open field, turned their attention more strongly than ever to their two
most notable schemes, of kidnapping our men, one by one, and destroying
our ships by means of fire-rafts. Large rewards continued to be offered
for the capture of our high officers; but their successes in this
system were confined to the men, some of whom were occasionally carried
off and a few were put to death in the most barbarous and inhuman
manner. Indeed, it was not till after the capture of Chapoo (the next
engagement to be described) that the Chinese began to treat their
prisoners with a little kindness and mercy.
Many stories of the cleverness of the Chinese in carrying off
prisoners, and of the treatment the latter afterwards met with, are
familiar to the reader. Towards the close of the war, they were
generally pretty well taken care of, for the Chinese could not be
insensible to the kind treatment their countrymen met with when they
fell into our hands. I remember being nearly caught once at Chusan,
just at the close of the war; and the very next day, an attack was
made upon two of our officers, who made an excursion in the same
direction, and had a very narrow escape. Captain Wellesley, R.N., and
Ensign Shadwell, of the 55th, were surrounded at less than a mile from
the city gate. The latter shot one of the Chinamen in the breast with
a pistol, (a _single_ pistol is always useless,) but was immediately
taken prisoner by the others, who were probably soldiers disguised
as peasants. His arms were pinioned, and he was dragged along _by
the legs_. In the meantime, Captain Wellesley, instead of firing his
pistol, judiciously ran off towards the city gate, to call out the
guard; and the moment the Chinese saw them advancing, they threw down
their prisoner and decamped. He was thus saved.
On some occasions, the Chinese kidnappers had the worst of it, and were
themselves captured: these were principally sent down to Hong-Kong to
work in chains, but some were kept in prison at Chusan. The respectable
inhabitants, however, were anxious to bring about a more peaceable
state of things, and they stated that the kidnappers were not natives
of the island, but people sent over purposely from the mainland. It was
evident that some secret influence was at work among the people, and
that they still dreaded the power of their own authorities, and were
instigated to annoy us.
At length, the Chinese became better disposed, and then took to the
amusement of making caricatures of us. Many spirited things of this
sort were hawked about, rudely executed and strangely coloured, but
withal amusing specimens of Chinese drollery. The two annexed sketches,
one of an encounter between our own soldiers and the Tartars, and
the other of an English foraging party, are accurately reduced from
the original Chinese caricatures, and shew more evidence of fun and
quickness than we should have expected among so grave a people. There
were many others equally amusing. At Ningpo, they made a sort of little
peep show of the General and his staff, intended to be a correct
representation of them in little figures. That of Sir Hugh Gough, with
his beautiful long, grey locks, was fairly done. A capital full-length
picture, in oil, of the General was afterwards executed at Macao by a
Chinese artist, who had been regularly instructed.
[Illustration: TARTAR AND ENGLISH SOLDIERS FIGHTING.]
[Illustration: ENGLISH FORAGING PARTY.
CHINESE CARICATURES.]
The more the Chinese came to mix with us and to be acquainted with our
character, the more they seemed to fall into our ways; and we cannot
but think that, at no distant period, amicable relations will be
established, without difficulty, upon an intimate footing. It has often
been remarked, that in many respects they resemble Englishmen in their
mercantile, industrious habits, their ingenuity, and their readiness
to combine together for useful purposes, their independent spirit, and
their love of argument. They differ materially from all other eastern
nations with which we have hitherto come in contact.
As soon as the Nemesis had undergone some necessary repairs, (for which
purpose she was beached upon the sands at Trumball Island,) she was
ordered to explore all the neighbouring islands between Chusan and the
Main in search of fire-vessels, or of other warlike preparations. She
was joined by H.M.S. Clio, which was, however, left at anchor at Keeto
Point, Captain Troubridge himself coming on board the Nemesis, and
bringing one of his boats, manned and armed. In almost every island
or bay they visited along the so-called Nimrod's Channel, Gough's
Passage, Mesan Island, and other parts to the southward of Chusan, an
immense number of fire-boats, in different stages of preparation, were
discovered and destroyed; and wherever any opposition was offered, the
neighbouring hamlets were burnt.
Two or three days were occupied in this important service, during
which the Nemesis had her false rudder carried away; and, owing in a
great measure to this accident, and to the remarkable strength of the
currents, as she was attempting to pass between the island of Luhwang
and another small one lying off its eastern point, the current caught
her bows, and threw her heavily, _broadside onto the rocks_. The
vessel was soon got off again, but she had bilged in the starboard
coal-bunker. The water was pouring in fast, but it was thought that the
engine-pumps would suffice to keep it under, until a good sandy beach
could be found to run her ashore upon. But the water gained so fast
upon the pumps that the fire would not burn much longer, so that it was
necessary to run her ashore upon the nearest beach. As the tide ebbed,
the water ran out again through the leak; and then by digging a deep
hole in the sand, it was easy to get down below the ship's bottom, and
stop the leak from the outside.
A great many fire-boats had been destroyed upon the island that day;
and, as it was known to be occupied by a body of Chinese soldiers, a
military mandarin on horseback having also been observed superintending
the completion of the fire-boats, it was possible that an attack might
be made on the vessel at night, and it was therefore prudent to hasten
the repairs. The rent was full three feet in length, but it was filled
up with stout wedges of wood, covered with oakum, and driven firmly
into it _from the outside_.
To prevent any surprise by the Chinese, sentries were posted upon
the neighbouring hills, to give warning of their approach; and, by
way of being beforehand with them, a requisition was sent up to the
principal village, written in Chinese, by a Chinese servant on board,
demanding from the head men, or elders of the place, a supply of
provisions--namely, a couple of bullocks, a dozen geese, two or three
dozen ducks and fowls, and so forth; and _threatening_ to pay a hostile
visit to the village next day, if they did not comply. After some
deliberation, all these things were promised; so that the authorities,
instead of planning an attack upon the vessel, or any attempt upon the
men during the night, had quite enough to do to collect these supplies
by the following morning. In the meantime, the vessel was repaired
and got off again. Information of the accident was, however, conveyed
to the Admiral by the Clio's boat; and he immediately sent down the
Phlegethon, with the launch of the Cornwallis, to render assistance. By
the time they arrived in the morning, the vessel was already, to their
astonishment, prepared to proceed to Chusan, where she arrived in the
course of the day.
Information of the intended attack on our shipping at Chusan had been
obtained by Captain Dennis, the military magistrate of Tinghai, late
that evening, and was by him communicated to the Admiral. Orders were
therefore sent to the different ships of war and transports, to be upon
the alert, and have all their boats in readiness. The Nemesis was the
only vessel to which the information was accidentally not conveyed;
probably because it was thought she was ashore.
A little after eleven, P.M., three divisions of fire-rafts were
observed drifting down towards the shipping, from the eastern end of
the harbour, some from the direction of Sincamoon, close along the
island of Chusan, some between Macclesfield and Trumball islands, where
the Nemesis lay, and others again outside the latter, by the Sarah
Galley passage. The first intimation of their approach was given by
two lights being observed at some distance; this led to a suspicion of
fire-rafts, and by the time the men had got to quarters, several of the
fire-vessels burst into flames; others were gradually set on fire,
and were seen to take the three different directions before described.
Nearly twenty of them drifted down between the islands off which the
Nemesis lay; and as they gradually came within range, her guns opened
on them, to try to drive them on shore. There was a small boat ahead
of each raft, under sail, and with men in it to tow the rafts in the
required direction.
The Nemesis was of course in considerable danger; for the rafts or
fire-boats were chained two and two together, so as to hang across the
ship's bows. Steam was got up as quick as possible, the cable was ready
to be slipped in case of need, and the steamer's boats were sent out to
tow the rafts clear, as they were rapidly bearing down upon her, with a
strong ebb-tide. They were all in a complete blaze as they drifted past
on either side of her; and so close were they, that it was necessary to
wet the decks and the side of the vessel continually, on account of the
great heat. Her guns continued to fire at them, in order to sink them,
if possible.
Other divisions of the fire-rafts, which came down the passages before
described, were driven ashore by the boats of the squadron, and blew
up, without doing any mischief to our shipping. Altogether, between
fifty and sixty of them at least had been sent down, from the eastern
side of the harbour; but it was reported that another division of them
was to come down by the western side, from the direction of Sing Kong,
as soon as the tide turned; a division of boats, under Lieutenant Wise,
of the Cornwallis, was therefore sent to endeavour to find them out
and destroy them at once. They were soon discovered, to the number of
thirty, at anchor off a sandy beach, outside of Bell Island, and their
destined work of mischief was frustrated.
On the following morning, the Nemesis and Phlegethon steamers were
again sent to search through all the adjacent islands; and the
Nemesis succeeded in discovering many more fire-boats, which were now
destroyed, upon the different islands; stacks of fire-wood and other
combustible materials, which had been collected for the purpose, were
likewise set on fire. In one village, there were a number of boats half
filled with combustible materials; and the whole village was put into
an uproar when the crew of the steamer began to set fire to them. It
turned out that they had been pressed into service by the mandarins,
and the people naturally wished to save their boats, on which their
livelihood depended. Only one poor old woman, however, was permitted to
retain her boat, for they might all have been pressed by the mandarins
again.
A party of armed seamen and marines were now sent up towards a hill
in the rear of the village, along which a number of men had been seen
retiring, and amongst them a military mandarin, which made it probable
that they were soldiers. The Chinese made a hasty retreat, but the
mandarin was observed to try to hide himself behind a tombstone while
he pulled off his warm jacket, and nearly all his clothes, and lastly
his satin boots, and then giving them to a man who attended him, away
he ran for his life down the hill on the opposite side, so that there
was no chance of overtaking him.
The Phlegethon had been sent in an opposite direction; but on that side
no fire-boats were discovered, notwithstanding the active exertions of
Lieutenant M'Cleverty. Altogether not less than one hundred fire-boats
were destroyed on these different occasions, besides those which had
been previously destroyed by the Nemesis, and the boat of the Clio.
How many Chinese lost their lives in the affair it is impossible to
say; but many of them must have been drowned in attempting to escape
on shore, after the fire-rafts burst into flames. In fact, in all the
numerous little sheltered bays among those islands, fire-rafts were
destroyed in greater or lesser numbers.
On one occasion, and without any warning, the Nemesis ran at full
speed, and at high water, upon a dangerous conical-shaped rock, off
the north-eastern extremity of Deer Island, near the southern coast
of Chusan, although she had frequently been through the same passage
before without having discovered the danger. The tide began to fall
almost immediately she struck, so that she was left with her bows high
and dry, and her stern deep in the water, while she had seven fathoms
close alongside of her. It was a remarkable position for a vessel to be
placed in; part of her bottom was completely clear of the rock and the
water too, the vessel being only held by its extremities; and when the
tide rose, every attempt to haul her off proved ineffectual. A large
indentation, or hollow, was supposed to have been made where she rested
upon the rock, which of course held her fast.
The only resource was to try to float her off, by fairly lifting her
up, with the help of large casks and junks. The launch and pinnace of
the Cornwallis having been sent to her assistance, eight large casks
were got out, and boats were sent out to press half-a-dozen of the
largest Chinese trading junks to assist in the operation. As soon as
they were brought alongside, the vessel was lightened, strong hawsers
were passed under her bottom, and were secured over the bows of three
junks, placed on either side, and then carried aft round the junk's
quarter, and thence led forward and secured round the mast. By these
means, as the tide rose, the junks fairly lifted the head of the
steamer off the rock, and she was launched into her own element without
having sustained any material injury.
From what has been already stated, it will be readily inferred that the
navigation of the Chusan islands is intricate, and not unattended with
danger.
Perhaps the most curious and interesting of all these islands is the
consecrated island of Pooto, situated very near the eastern end of
Chusan, and only about sixteen miles distant from the town of Tinghai.
It is a small rocky island, broken up into numerous picturesque valleys
and romantic glens, the hollows of which are richly cultivated, and
abounding in trees and aromatic shrubs; while from the steep and rugged
heights a most beautiful prospect presents itself on every side, the
waters around it being studded with almost innumerable islands as
far as the eye can reach. But it is most celebrated for its numerous
temples, of which there are said to be nearly four hundred, (but this
number is probably exaggerated,) dedicated to the idolatrous worship of
Foo, or Budha. The whole island is, in fact, a large monastery, divided
into many brotherhoods. "All the sumptuous and extensive buildings of
this island," says Medhurst, "are intended for no other purpose than
to screen wooden images from the sun and rain; and all its inhabitants
are employed in no other work than the recitation of unmeaning prayers,
and the direction of useless contemplations towards stocks and stones;
so that human science and human happiness would not be in the least
diminished if the whole of Pooto, with its gaudy temples and lazy
priests, were blotted out from the face of the creation." Each of
the priests is furnished with a _string of beads_, which he keeps
continually fingering; and as he counts them, he repeats the same dull
monotonous exclamation, "O-me-to-Fuh." The solid rocks are engraven
with Budhist titles, and the whole island is under the spell of the
almost talismanic words, "O-me-to-Fuh."
Several of the temples are very extensive and highly ornamented,
although they begin to bear the marks of falling greatness. At a
distance they look very imposing; but on nearer inspection, some of
them are found to be more or less tumbling to decay; in short, the
priests are no longer wealthy, and the visits of superstitious votaries
to the island are less numerous than formerly, and consequently the
revenues have diminished. There are few places, however, better worth
visiting by an inquiring traveller; and three or four days could
be spent upon the island with great pleasure and some profit. The
temples are gaudily ornamented, and sometimes elegantly planned. You
are struck with the succession of shrines, one within the other, the
huge gilded statues of Budha, and the monstrous images by which they
are surrounded and attended. The temples are generally built in a
hollow, or at the bottom of a valley, so that the different shrines or
buildings of the principal monasteries rise one above the other, being
built on the declivity of the mountain's side, which terminates in
the valley. The yellow tiles of some of them indicate former imperial
protection. The most picturesque sites have been chosen for them,
and even caverns in the rocks have in some parts been turned into a
succession of gilded temples.
There are good causeways leading to every part of the island; on every
crag there is either a temple or a little image; the gardens are laid
out with extreme care and neatness; and were you not startled by the
gross idolatry which surrounds you, and repelled by the dull, vacant,
half-idiotic look of ignorant superstition stamped upon the countenance
of every man you meet, you might be almost tempted to believe that
it is a rich and happy,--a favoured and contented spot. Some of the
temples are very striking, and might be called beautiful. In one of
them was a very large library for the use of the monks; but, as far
as I could judge, the books appeared to have been little, if at all
used.[62]
FOOTNOTE:
[62] There are three religions systems prevailing in China, and
tolerated by the government--viz., those of Confucius, of Laoutze, and
of Budha. The two former were contemporaries, and flourished about five
hundred years before the Christian era. That of Budha was introduced
from India, very soon after the beginning of our era, and gained such
hold among the common people of China, that it is now the general
superstition of all the lower classes, and its showy temples and gilded
images abound throughout the land. Confucius, on the other hand, was
simply a political and moral philosopher, and in his temples no images
are found; but he was a politician, and was employed in the public
service, _long before he became a moralist_.
Laoutze was a contemplative enthusiast, who taught the cultivation
of reason, abstraction from the world, self-denial, &c.; and then
wandered into the absurdities of magic arts and demoniac possessions.
Nevertheless, he is said to have had some glimmerings of a future
state. His followers are in the present day called the sect of Taou.
The Budhism of China probably differs little from that of India; the
daily prayers are repeated in a language of which the priests do not
understand a syllable. In the temple are the three huge Budhas--the
Past, the Present, and the Future; with a Goddess of Mercy, a God of
War, a God of Wealth, and others. There is, in front of the altar, a
large bronze cauldron, for burning gilt paper; and a huge drum and a
bell, to awaken the especial attention of the god. Such are the temples
of Pooto.
In cases of extreme emergency, as during the prevalence of great
drought and threatened famine, the Emperor orders prayers to be offered
up in the temples of all the three sects, for a cessation of the evil.
But the Confucian is the system of religion to which the Emperor and
his court adhere.