CHAPTER XLV

_Foreign Relations—New Shōgun—Dutch Trade—Chinese Trade—American

Embassy—Its Object—Letter to the Emperor—Perry’s first visit

to the Bay of Yedo—Death of the Shōgun—Perry’s second visit to

the Bay of Yedo—Negotiation of a Treaty—The Treaty as agreed

to—Shimoda—Hakodate—Additional Regulations—Japanese Currency—Burrow’s

visit to the Bay of Yedo—Third visit of the American Steamers—Russian

and English Negotiations—Exchange of Ratifications—Earthquake._

We have seen in the last chapter how the whale fishery, on the one

hand, and the opening of China to foreign trade, on the other, had

more and more drawn attention to Japan; in the conduct of whose

functionaries, however, no indication appeared of any disposition to

abandon their ancient exclusive policy. It has even been asserted[112]

that a new Shōgun [Iyeyoshi], who had succeeded in 1837 (after a

fifty years’ reign on the part of his predecessor), had imposed new

restrictions on foreign products, and, by special encouragement to

home productions of similar kinds, had endeavored to supersede the

necessity of receiving anything from abroad. It is certain that the

Dutch trade rather diminished than increased. The amount of that trade,

from 1825 to 1833, inclusive, is stated by Jancigny, from official

returns, or those reputed to be such, at 289,150 florins ($115,620)

for importations, and 702,675 florins ($281,078) for exportations.

In 1846, the importations reached only 231,117 fr. ($92,446), and

the exportations 552,319 fr. ($220,927); and those of the preceding

year had been about the same. The private trade, and the attempts at

smuggling connected with it, were very narrowly watched. Within the

preceding ten years, one interpreter had been executed, and another

had been driven to cut himself open, in consequence of complicity in

smuggling. The private trade had been farmed out, for the benefit of

those interested in it, at 30,000 fl. ($12,000) annually,—the amount at

which Kämpfer had reckoned the profits from that source of the director

alone. Among the Dutch imports upon government account, woollens,

silks, velvets, cotton goods, gold, silver, tin, lead, mercury, and a

few other articles are mentioned. Sugar, formerly a leading article, no

longer appears on the list. The returns continued to be exclusively in

camphor and copper, the latter furnished by the Japanese government at

the old rates, much below the current price, by which advantage alone

was the Dutch trade sustained. Among the private importations were

spices, chemicals, and a great variety of Paris trinkets, for which

various Japanese manufactures and products were taken in exchange.

The Chinese trade had declined not less than that of the Dutch. The

ten junks a year, to which it was now restricted, all came from Sha-po

(not far from Chusan), half of them in January and the other half

in August—their cargoes, which include a great variety of articles,

being partly furnished by private merchants who come over in them, but

chiefly by a commercial company at Sha-po, for whom the captains of the

junks act as supercargoes. Except as to some trifling articles, this

trade seems, like that of the Dutch, to be pretty much in the hands of

the government, who, or some privileged company under them, purchase

the imports and furnish a return cargo to each junk, two fifths in

copper and the remainder in other articles. The Chinese, however, still

continued to be allowed much more liberty than the Dutch of personal

intercourse with the inhabitants of Nagasaki.

The settlement of California, the new trade opened thence with China,

and the idea of steam communication across the Pacific, for which the

coal of Japan might be needed, combined with the extension of the

whale fishery in the Northern Japanese seas to increase the desire

in America for access to the ports of Japan. Shortly after the visit

of the “Preble,” the American government resolved to send an envoy

thither, backed by such a naval force as would ensure him a respectful

hearing—the cases of Biddle and Glyn seeming to prove that the

humoring policy could not be relied upon and that the only way to deal

successfully with the Japanese was to show a resolution not to take no

for an answer.

Accordingly, Mr. Webster, as Secretary of State, prepared a letter from

the President to the Emperor of Japan; also a letter of instructions to

the American naval commander in the China seas, to whom it was resolved

to entrust the duty of envoy, and whose force was to be strengthened

by additional ships. The sailing, however, of these ships was delayed

till after Mr. Webster’s death; and in the mean time Commodore Matthew

C. Perry was selected as the head of the expedition. A new letter,[113]

dated November 5, 1852, addressed from the State Department to the

Secretary of the Navy, thus defined its objects:

“1. To effect some permanent arrangement for the protection of American

seamen and property wrecked on these islands, or driven into their

ports by stress of weather.

“2. The permission to American vessels to enter one or more of their

ports, in order to obtain supplies of provisions, water, fuel, &c.; or,

in case of disasters, to refit so as to enable them to prosecute their

voyage. It is very desirable to have permission to establish a dépôt

for coal, if not on one of the principal islands, at least on some

small, uninhabited one, of which it is said there are several in their

vicinity.

“3. The permission to our vessels to enter one or more of their ports

for the purpose of disposing of their cargoes by sale or barter.”

The mission was to be of a pacific character, as the President had no

power to declare war; yet the show of force was evidently relied upon

as more likely than anything else to weigh with the Japanese. The Dutch

government, it was stated, had instructed their agents at Deshima to do

all they could to promote the success of the expedition. Indeed, if we

may believe Jancigny,[114] who speaks from information obtained during

a residence at Batavia in 1844-45, the King of Holland had, as long ago

as that time, addressed a letter to the Emperor of Japan, urging him to

abandon the policy of exclusion. The letter of instructions disavowed

any wish to obtain exclusive privileges; but, as a matter of policy,

nothing was to be said about other nations.

A new letter to the Emperor of Japan was also prepared in the following

terms:

“MILLARD FILLMORE, PRESIDENT OF THE UNITED STATES OF AMERICA, TO HIS

IMPERIAL MAJESTY, THE EMPEROR OF JAPAN.

“GREAT AND GOOD FRIEND:

“I send you this public letter by Commodore Matthew C. Perry, an

officer of the highest rank in the navy of the United States, and

commander of the squadron now visiting your imperial majesty’s

dominions.

“I have directed Commodore Perry to assure your imperial majesty that

I entertain the kindest feelings towards your majesty’s person and

government, and that I have no other object in sending him to Japan

but to propose to your imperial majesty that the United States and

Japan should live in friendship and have commercial intercourse with

each other.

“The constitution and laws of the United States forbid all

interference with the religious or political concerns of other

nations. I have particularly charged Commodore Perry to abstain from

every act which could possibly disturb the tranquillity of your

imperial majesty’s dominions.

“The United States of America reach from ocean to ocean, and our

Territory of Oregon and State of California lie directly opposite to

the dominions of your imperial majesty. Our steamships can go from

California to Japan in eighteen days.

“Our great state of California produces about sixty millions of

dollars in gold every year, besides silver, quicksilver, precious

stones, and many other valuable articles. Japan is also a rich and

fertile country, and produces many very valuable articles. Your

imperial majesty’s subjects are skilled in many of the arts. I am

desirous that our two countries should trade with each other, for the

benefit both of Japan and the United States.

“We know that the ancient laws of your imperial majesty’s government

do not allow of foreign trade except with the Chinese and the Dutch;

but, as the state of the world changes, and new governments are

formed, it seems to be wise, from time to time, to make new laws.

There was a time when the ancient laws of your imperial majesty’s

government were first made.

“About the same time America, which is sometimes called the New World,

was first discovered and settled by the Europeans. For a long time

there were but a few people, and they were poor. They have now become

quite numerous; their commerce is very extensive; and they think that

if your imperial majesty were so far to change the ancient laws as to

allow a free trade between the two countries, it would be extremely

beneficial to both.

“If your imperial majesty is not satisfied that it would be safe

altogether to abrogate the ancient laws, which forbid foreign trade,

they might be suspended for five or ten years, so as to try the

experiment. If it does not prove as beneficial as was hoped, the

ancient laws can be restored. The United States often limit their

treaties with foreign states to a few years, and then renew them or

not, as they please.

“I have directed Commodore Perry to mention another thing to your

imperial majesty. Many of our ships pass every year from California to

China; and great numbers of our people pursue the whale fishery near

the shores of Japan. It sometimes happens, in stormy weather, that

one of our ships is wrecked on your imperial majesty’s shores. In all

such cases we ask, and expect, that our unfortunate people should be

treated with kindness, and that their property should be protected,

till we can send a vessel and bring them away. We are very much in

earnest in this.

“Commodore Perry is also directed by me to represent to your imperial

majesty that we understand there is a great abundance of coal and

provisions in the empire of Japan. Our steamships, in crossing the

great ocean, burn a great deal of coal, and it is not convenient to

bring it all the way from America. We wish that our steamships and

other vessels should be allowed to stop at Japan and supply themselves

with coal, provisions, and water. They will pay for them in money,

or anything else your imperial majesty’s subjects may prefer; and

we request your imperial majesty to appoint a convenient port, in

the southern part of the empire, where our vessels may stop for this

purpose. We are very desirous of this.

“These are the only objects for which I have sent Commodore Perry,

with a powerful squadron, to pay a visit to your imperial majesty’s

renowned city of Yedo: friendship, commerce, a supply of coal and

provisions, and protection for our shipwrecked people.

“We have directed Commodore Perry to beg your imperial majesty’s

acceptance of a few presents. They are of no great value in

themselves; but some of them may serve as specimens of the articles

manufactured in the United States, and they are intended as tokens of

our sincere and respectful friendship.

“May the Almighty have your imperial majesty in his great and holy

keeping!

“In witness whereof, I have caused the great seal of the United States

to be hereunto affixed, and have subscribed the same with my name,

at the city of Washington, in America, the seat of my government, on

the thirteenth day of the month of November, in the year one thousand

eight hundred and fifty-two.

Your good friend.

(Seal attached.)

“MILLARD FILLMORE.

“By the President:

EDWARD EVERETT, _Secretary of State_.”[115]

[Illustration: PLAYERS AT THE GAME OF “GO”]

Furnished with these orders, and this letter splendidly engrossed and

enclosed in a gold box of the value of a thousand dollars, and provided

also with a variety of presents, Commodore Perry, towards the end of

1852, sailed from the United States in the steam-frigate “Mississippi,”

and, after touching at Madeira and the Cape of Good Hope, arrived

at Hong Kong in April, 1853, whence he proceeded to Shanghai. The

dispersion of the vessels of the squadron, delay in the arrival of

others from the United States, difficulty in obtaining coal, and the

claim of the American merchants in China, in consideration of existing

civil commotions, to the protecting presence of a naval force, caused

some delays. But, at length, after touching at Lew Chew [Riūkiū], and

making a visit to the Bonin Islands,[116] Perry, with the steam-frigate

“Susquehanna,” now the flag-ship, the “Mississippi,” and the

sloops-of-war “Plymouth” and “Saratoga,” made Cape Izu about daybreak

on the 8th of July. Many rumors had been current on the coast of China

of extensive warlike preparations by the Japanese, aided by the Dutch,

and the squadron was fully prepared for a hostile reception. Perry had

made up his mind, instead of attempting to conciliate by yielding, to

stand upon his dignity to the utmost, to allow no petty annoyances, and

to demand as a right, instead of soliciting as a favor, the courtesies

due from one civilized nation to another.

The promontory constituting the province of Izu appeared, as the

vessels ran along it, to be a group of high mountains, their summits

scarred with slides, and their sides mostly wooded, though here and

there a cultivated spot could be seen. By noon the ships reached Cape

Sagami, which separates the inner from the outer bay of Yedo. The

shores of this point rose in abrupt bluffs two hundred feet high, with

green dells running down to the waterside. Further off were groves and

cultivated fields, and mountains in the distance.

Leaving behind some twelve or fifteen Japanese boats, which put off

from Cape Sagami to intercept them, the vessels stood up through the

narrowest part of the bay, not more than five to eight miles wide, but

expanding afterwards to fifteen miles, having now also in sight the

eastern shore, forming a part of the province of Awa.[117]

Within half an hour after passing Cape Sagami, they made another bold

promontory from the west, forming a second entrance to the upper bay.

In the bight formed by it lay the town of Uraga, visible from the

ships, which, sounding their way, anchored within a mile and a half of

the promontory,—a mile or more in advance of the anchorage ground of

the “Columbus” and “Vincennes.”

As the ships dropped their anchors two or three guns or mortars were

fired from the second promontory, and four or five boats put off.

They were of unpainted wood, very sharp, their greatest breadth well

towards the stern, and propelled with great rapidity by tall, athletic

rowers, naked, save a cloth about the loins, who shouted lustily as

they pulled. In the stem of each boat was a small flag, with three

horizontal stripes, the middle one black, the others white, and about

it were four or five well-dressed men with two swords in their girdles.

Some parley took place before anybody was admitted on board, that

favor being refused except to the person highest in authority in the

town. The conversation was carried on in Dutch, which the Japanese

interpreter spoke very well; and, from what he said, it was evident

that the vessels had been expected. After a long parley, in which

the high rank of the commodore, and the necessity of his being met

by persons of corresponding rank, were very much insisted upon, an

officer, representing himself as second in command at the town in

sight, was admitted on board. The commodore, however, declined to see

him in person, and turned him over to Mr. Contee, the flag lieutenant,

who, assisted by the two interpreters—one for Dutch, the other for

Chinese[118]—had a long interview with him and his interpreter in the

cabin. He was told that the object of the expedition was to deliver a

letter from the President of the United States to the Emperor, and that

some high officer must be sent on board to receive it; also, that the

squadron would not submit to be watched and guarded, after the Japanese

fashion, but that all the guard-boats must withdraw. The officer, as

usual, was very inquisitive. He wanted to know whether the vessels came

from Boston, New York, or Washington, how many men they had, etc.,

etc.; but these questions he was given to understand were regarded as

impertinent.

Seeing the determination evinced, the Japanese officer, by name

_Nakashima Saburosuke_, _Yoriki_ of the governor of Uraga, returned on

shore, taking back his official notifications in French, Dutch, and

English, addressed to ships arriving on the coast (like those given

p. 267), which the lieutenant refused to receive. He was followed

by the boats, which, after that, kept at a respectful distance. He

came back in about an hour to excuse his superior from receiving the

letter addressed to the emperor. He spoke of Nagasaki as the proper

place for foreign ships to touch at, and doubted if the letter would

be answered; but all this was cut short by the assurance that if his

superior did not send for the letter, the ships would proceed still

higher up the bay to deliver it themselves; upon which information,

much agitated, he stipulated for permission to return in the morning.

As he departed, looking at the long gun in the cabin, he exclaimed,

with an interrogative look, “Paixhan?” showing that the Japanese were

not ignorant of the modern improvements in gunnery any more than of

American geography.

It was noticed that, towards night, the boatmen put on their Japanese

gowns, most of them blue, with white stripes on the sleeves, meeting

angular-wise on the shoulders, and with a symbol or badge on the back.

Others wore gowns of red and white stripes, with a black lozenge

upon the back. A few had broad bamboo hats, like a shallow basin

inverted; but most of them were bareheaded. The officers wore light and

beautifully lackered hats, with a gilded symbol in front.

During the night watch-fires blazed along the coast, and bells were

heard sounding the hours. The next morning (Saturday), _Koyama

Yezaimon_, first in command at the town, came on board, and made

another attempt to beg off from receiving the letter to the emperor.

Finally, he proposed to send to Yedo for permission, and was allowed

three days to do it in.

Meanwhile surveying parties from the ships ran up the bay a distance of

four miles, finding everywhere from thirty to forty fathoms of water.

They sounded round the bight within which the ships lay, keeping about

a cable’s length from the shore, and finding five fathoms. Yezaimon

represented that this survey was against the Japanese laws, but was

told that, if forbidden by the laws of Japan it was commanded by

the laws of America. On approaching the forts, of which there were

five, two apparently of recent construction, the soldiers, armed with

matchlocks, came out; but, as the boats drew near, they retired again.

These forts were very feeble, mounting only fourteen guns in the

whole, none larger than nine-pounders. Of soldiers, about four hundred

were seen, many of them armed with spears. There was also, as usual,

a great show of canvas screens; but, on the whole, the warlike means

of the Japanese seemed contemptible. From the town to the end of the

promontory, a distance of a mile and a half, was an unbroken line of

villages. At least a hundred small craft lay in the harbor. The hills

behind, some five hundred feet high, were dotted with pines and other

trees. In the morning and evening, when the air was clear, Mount Fuji

might be seen in the west, sixty miles distant. The presence of the

American ships did not seem to disturb the coasting trade. Sixty or

seventy large junks, besides hundreds of boats and fishing-smacks,

daily passed up and down the bay, to and from Yedo.

On Monday, the 11th, the same surveying party proceeded up the bay

some ten miles, followed by the “Mississippi.” They were constantly

met by government boats, the officers on board which urged them by

signs to return, but of which they took no notice. Deep soundings were

everywhere obtained, with a bottom of soft mud. A deep bay was found on

the western shore, with good and safe anchoring ground.

In the evening Yezaimon returned on board, well pleased, apparently,

to be able to give information of the probability of good news from

Yedo, but rather troubled at the explorations by the boats. The flag

lieutenant, with whom he had his interviews, describes him as “a

gentleman, clever, polished, well-informed, a fine, large man, about

thirty-four, of most excellent countenance, taking his wine freely, and

a boon companion.”

The next day (the 12th) he brought information that the emperor would

send down a high officer to receive the letter. No answer would be

given immediately, but one would be forwarded through the Dutch or

Chinese. This latter proposition the commodore treated as an insult.

As, however, if he waited for an answer, excuses might easily be

found for protracting his stay in an inconvenient manner, and at last

wearying him out, he agreed to allow time for its preparation, and to

return to receive it. The following Thursday (the 14th) was appointed

for the interview with the commissioners appointed to receive the

letter, which was to take place two miles south of the town, at a

picturesque spot, on the left side of a narrow valley, extending

inland from the head of the bight. Its retired situation, and the

facility it afforded for the display of a military force, were probably

the motives of its selection.

At the hour appointed for the meeting, as the two steamers approached

the spot, long lines of canvas walls were seen stretching,

crescent-wise, quite round the head of the bight, and in front files

of soldiers with a multitude of brilliant banners. Near the centre of

the crescent were nine tall standards, with broad scarlet pennons, in

the rear of which could be seen the roof of the house prepared for the

interview. On the right, a line of fifty or sixty boats was drawn up,

parallel to the beach, each with a red flag at its stern.

The foremost files of the Japanese soldiers stood about a hundred yards

from the beach, in somewhat loose and straggling order. The greater

part were behind the canvas screens. There were a number of horses to

be seen, and in the background a body of cavalry. The Japanese stated

the number of troops at five thousand. On the slope of the hill, near

the village, was collected a crowd of spectators, of whom many were

women.

[Illustration: THEATRICAL REPRESENTATIONS: THE “NO” DANCE;

CHRYSANTHEMUM FIGURES]

As soon as the steamers dropped their anchors, they were approached

by two boats, containing their former visitors, the first and second

officers of the town, with the interpreters, very richly dressed in

silk brocade, bordered with velvet, and having on their garments of

ceremony. The steamers lay with their broadsides to the shore, ready

for action in case of treachery. Fifteen launches and cutters were

got ready, from which three hundred and twenty persons, officers,

seamen, marines, and musicians, were landed on an extemporaneous jetty

which the Japanese had formed of bags of sand. Last of all the

commodore landed with due formality, when the whole body, preceded

by the Japanese officers and interpreters, marched to the house of

reception, carrying with them the president’s letter, the box which

held it wrapped in scarlet cloth, as was also that containing the

letter of credence. In front of the houses prepared for the interview

were two old brass four-pounders, apparently Spanish, and on each side

a company of soldiers, those on one side armed with matchlocks, those

on the other with old Tower muskets, with flint locks and bayonets. The

reception building was a temporary structure, evidently put up for the

occasion. The first apartment, about forty feet square, was of canvas.

The floor was covered with white cotton cloth, with a pathway of red

felt leading across to a raised inner apartment, wholly carpeted with

the same red felt. This apartment, of which the front was entirely

open, was hung with fine cloth, stamped with the imperial symbols in

white on a ground of violet. On the right was a row of arm-chairs

for the commodore and his staff. On the opposite side sat the two

commissioners appointed to receive the letters, and who were announced

by the interpreters as the princes of Izu and Iwami [Toda Izu-no-kami,

and Ido Iwami-no-kami, Bugiōs of Uraga]. The former was a man about

fifty, with a very pleasing and intelligent face. The latter was older

by fifteen years or so, wrinkled with age, and of looks much less

prepossessing. Both were splendidly dressed, in heavy robes of silk

tissue, elaborately ornamented with threads of gold and silver. As the

commodore entered, both rose and bowed gravely, but immediately resumed

their seats and remained silent and passive as statues.

At the end of the room was a large scarlet-lackered box, standing

on gilded feet, beside which Yezaimon and one of the interpreters

knelt, at the same time signifying that all things were ready for

the reception of the letters. They were brought in, and the boxes

containing them being opened so as to display the writing and the

golden seals, they were placed upon the scarlet box, and along

with them translations in Dutch and Chinese, as well as an English

transcript. The prince of Iwami then handed to the interpreters, who

gave it to the commodore, an official receipt in Japanese, to which the

interpreter added a Dutch translation, which translated literally into

English was as follows:

“The letter of the President of the United States of North America,

and copy, are hereby received and delivered to the emperor. Many

times it has been communicated that business relating to foreign

countries cannot be transacted here in Uraga, but in Nagasaki. Now,

it has been observed that the admiral, in his quality of ambassador

of the president, would be insulted by it; the justice of this has

been acknowledged; consequently the above-mentioned letter is hereby

received, in opposition to the Japanese law.

“Because the place is not designed to treat of anything from

foreigners, so neither can conference nor entertainment take place.

The letter being received, you will leave here.”

The commodore remarked, when this receipt was delivered to him, that

he should return again, probably in April or May, for an answer. “With

all the ships?” asked the interpreter. “Yes, and probably with more,”

was the reply. Nothing more was said on either side. As the commodore

departed, the commissioners rose and remained standing, and so the

interview ended, without a single word uttered on their part.

The Japanese officers of the town, with the Japanese interpreters,

accompanied the American party back to the “Susquehanna,” whose

machinery they examined with much interest. When off the town, they

were set ashore; but the steamers, to show how lightly the injunction

to leave was regarded, proceeded up the bay, and anchored a short

distance above the point reached by the “Mississippi.” In spite of

the solicitude of the Japanese officers, who came again on board, the

whole bight between the promontory of Uraga and another north of it

was carefully surveyed. At the head a river was found. The shores were

studded with villages, whose inhabitants offered to the surveying party

cold water, and peaches from their gardens. To the place where the

steamers lay the name was given of “American anchorage.”

The next day (Friday, the 15th) the “Mississippi” proceeded on an

excursion ten miles further up, and reached, as was supposed, within

eight or ten miles of the capital. On the western shore were seen two

large towns. On the extremity of a cape in front, some four miles

distant, stood a tall white tower, like a lighthouse. Three or four

miles beyond was a crowd of shipping, supposed to be the anchorage of

Shinagawa, the southern suburb of Yedo. At the point where the steamer

put about, she had twenty fathoms of water. On Saturday, the 16th, the

vessels moved to a new anchorage, five or six miles down the bay, and

much nearer the shore, and here the surveying operations were renewed.

The same day an interchange of presents took place with Yezaimon,

who, however, was induced to accept those offered to him only by the

positive refusal of his own, except on that condition. Thus pressed,

he finally took them, except some arms—articles, he said, which the

Japanese neither gave nor received. In the afternoon he came again, in

excellent humor, his conduct probably having been approved on shore,

bringing a quantity of fowls, in light wicker coops, and three or four

thousand eggs, in boxes, for which a box of garden-seeds was accepted

in return.

The next day, 17th, and the tenth since their arrival, the vessels

weighed and stood for Lew Chew, the bay being covered with boats, to

witness their departure.[119]

Commodore Perry spent the remainder of the year on the coast of China,

keeping one vessel, however, at Lew Chew, and prosecuting the survey

of the Bonin Islands. Shortly after his visit, the Shōgun died, and an

attempt was made to take advantage of that circumstance to delay or

prevent the return of the American ships. A communication, forwarded

to Batavia by the Dutch ship that left Nagasaki in November, and

communicated by the Dutch governor-general at Batavia to the commodore,

represented that the necessary mourning for the deceased sovereign, and

other arrangements consequent on his death, as well as the necessity of

consulting all the princes, must necessarily delay the answer to the

president’s letter, and suggested the danger of confusion, or “broil,”

should the squadron come back at so unseasonable a moment.

Undeterred, however, by this representation, on the 12th of February,

1854, Commodore Perry reappeared in the bay of Yedo, with three steam

frigates, four sloops-of-war, and two store-ships, and the steamers

taking the sailing vessels in tow, they all moved up to the American

anchorage.

About two weeks were spent here in fixing upon a place to negotiate,

the Japanese importuning the commodore to go back to Kamakura, twenty

miles below Uraga, or, at least, to the latter place, while he insisted

upon going to Yedo. As he declined to yield, and caused the channel to

be sounded out within four miles of Yedo, they proposed, as the place

of meeting, the village of Yokohama,[120] containing about ten thousand

people, and situated on the shore, just opposite the anchorage of the

ships. To this the commodore agreed, and the ships drew in and moored

in line, with broadsides bearing upon the shore, and covering an extent

of five miles.

“On the 8th of March,” says a letter dated on board the “Vandalia,” and

published in the New York “Journal of Commerce,” “the day appointed for

the first meeting, about nine hundred officers, seamen, and marines,

armed to the teeth, landed, and, with drums beating and colors flying,

were drawn up on the beach, ready to receive the commodore. As soon

as he stepped on shore the bands struck up, salutes were fired, the

marines presented arms, and, followed by a long escort of officers,

he marched up between the lines and entered the house erected by the

Japanese expressly for the occasion. Thousands of Japanese soldiers

crowded the shore and the neighboring elevations, looking on with a

good deal of curiosity and interest. The house was nothing but a plain

frame building, hastily put up, containing one large room—the audience

hall—and several smaller, for the convenience of attendants, etc. The

floor was covered with mats, and very pretty painted screens adorned

the sides. Long tables and benches, covered with red woollen stuff,

placed parallel to each other, three handsome braziers, filled with

burning charcoal, on the floor between them, and a few violet-colored

crape hangings suspended from the ceiling, completed the furniture of

the room. As we entered, we took our seats at one of the tables. The

Japanese commissioners soon came in, and placed themselves opposite

to us, at the other table; while behind us both, seated on the floor

on their knees[121] (their usual position, for they do not use

chairs), was a crowd of Japanese officers, forming the train of the

commissioners.

“The business was carried on in the Dutch language, through

interpreters, of whom they have several who speak very well, and two

or three who speak a little English. They were on their knees, between

the commissioners and the commodore. Our interpreter was seated by the

side of the latter. It was curious to see the intolerable ceremony

observed by them, quite humiliating to a democratic republican. A

question proposed had to pass first through the interpreters, and then

through several officers ascending in rank, before it could reach

the commissioners, every one bowing his forehead to the floor before

he addressed his superior. Refreshments were served in elegantly

lackered dishes; first of all, tea, which, as in China, is the constant

beverage; then different kinds of candy and sponge cake (they are

excellent confectioners, and very fond of sugar); lastly, oranges and

a palatable liquor distilled from rice, called sake. A flimsy banquet

like this was not very agreeable to such hungry individuals as we,

and we were the more disappointed, for, the Japanese using only

chopsticks, we had, previously to coming ashore, taken the precaution,

as we shrewdly thought, to provide ourselves with knives and forks.

Imagine, then, our chagrin when finding nothing substantial upon which

to employ them. What was left on our plates was wrapped in paper, and

given to us to carry away, according to the usual custom in Japan.

“The commissioners were intelligent-looking men, richly dressed in

gay silk petticoat pantaloons, and upper garments resembling in shape

ladies’ short gowns. Dark-colored stockings, and two elegant swords

pushed through a twisted silk girdle, finished the costume. Straw

sandals are worn, but are always slipped off upon entering a house.

They do not cover the head, the top and front part of which is shaved,

and the back and side hair, being brought up, is tied so as to form a

tail, three or four inches long, that extends forward upon the bald

pate, terminating about half way between the apex and the forehead. It

is a very comfortable fashion, and, were it not for the quantity of

grease used in dressing it, would be a very cleanly one.

“Two audiences a week were held, at which the same programme was

performed as related above, except that we fared more luxuriously.[122]

Becoming better acquainted with our taste, they feasted us with a

broth made of fish, boiled shrimps, hard-boiled eggs, and very good

raw oysters. At one of the interviews (March 13), the presents from

our government were delivered. They consisted of cloths, agricultural

implements, fire-arms, etc., and a beautiful locomotive, tender,

and passenger-car, one-fourth the ordinary size, which we put in

motion on a circular track, at the rate of twenty miles an hour. A

mile of magnetic telegraph was also erected on shore, and put in

operation. The Japanese were more interested in it than anything

else, but never manifested any wonder. So capable are they of

concealing and controlling their feelings, that they would examine

the guns, machinery, etc., of the steamers, without expressing the

slightest astonishment. They are a much finer-looking race than the

Chinese—intelligent, polite, and hospitable, but proud, licentious,

unforgiving, and revengeful.”

The death of a marine afforded an opportunity, at the first meeting

with the commissioners, of demanding a burying-place. It was proposed

to send the body to Nagasaki; but, as the commodore would not listen

to that, a spot was assigned near one of their temples, and in view of

the ships, where the body was buried, with all the forms of the English

church service, after which the Japanese surrounded the grave with a

neat enclosure of bamboo.

A formal letter of reply to the propositions contained in the letters

delivered at the former visit, repeated the story of a change of

succession, and the necessity of delays. The justice, however, of the

demands in relation to shipwrecked seamen, wood, water, provisions,

and coal, was conceded; but five years were asked before opening a new

harbor, the Americans, in the mean time, to resort to Nagasaki.

[Illustration: JAPANESE WRESTLERS]

Of Nagasaki, however, the commodore would not hear, nor of any

restrictions like those imposed on the Dutch and Chinese at that port.

He demanded three harbors, one in Nippon, one in Yezo, and a third in

Lew Chew. As to the two last, the Japanese pleaded that they were

very distant countries, and only partially subject to the emperor,

especially the last, upon which the commodore did not insist. In Nippon

he asked for Uraga, and for Matsumae in Yezo, but acceded to the

Japanese offer of Shimoda and Hakodate, having first sent a ship to

examine the former.

The commissioners were exceedingly tenacious, even upon points of

phraseology, but gave evidence of acting in entire good faith, and the

commodore conceded everything which did not seem absolutely essential.

The extent of the liberty to be allowed to American visitors was one of

the greatest difficulties.

Shortly before the treaty was concluded, the commodore gave an

entertainment on board the “Powhatan” to the Japanese officials, about

seventy in all. In conformity to their customs, two tables were spread,

one in the cabin for the commissioners and the captains of the fleet,

another on deck for the inferior officers. “They did full justice,”

says the letter-writer already quoted, “to American cookery, and were

exceedingly fond of champagne, under the influence of which they became

so very merry and familiar that one of them vigorously embraced the

commodore, who, until his epaulets began to suffer in the struggle, was

very good-naturedly disposed to endure it.”

Three copies of the treaty, in Japanese, signed by the commissioners,

were delivered to the commodore, for which he exchanged three copies

in English, signed by himself, with Dutch and Chinese translations.

This method was adopted to satisfy the commissioners, who alleged that

no Japanese could lawfully put his name to any document written in a

foreign language. The TREATY was as follows:

“The United States of America and the Empire of Japan, desiring to

establish, firm, lasting, and sincere friendship between the two

nations, have resolved to fix, in a manner clear and positive, by

means of a treaty or general convention of peace and amity, the rules

which shall in future be mutually observed in the intercourse of their

respective countries; for which most desirable object, the President

of the United States has conferred full powers on his commissioner,

Matthew Calbraith Perry, special Ambassador of the United States

to Japan; and the august Sovereign of Japan has given similar full

powers to his commissioners, Hayashi-Daigaku-no-kami, Ido, prince of

Tsushima, Izawa, prince of Mimasaki, and Udono Mimbushōyu, member of

the Board of Revenue.

“And the said commissioners, after having exchanged their said full

powers, and duly considered the premises, have agreed to the following

articles:

“ARTICLE I.—There shall be a perfect, permanent, and universal

peace, and a sincere and cordial amity, between the United States

of America on the one part, and between their people, respectfully

(respectively), without exception of persons or places.

“ARTICLE II.—The port of Shimoda, in the principality of Izu, and the

port of Hakodate, in the principality of Matsumae, are granted by the

Japanese as ports for the reception of American ships, where they can

be supplied with wood, water, provisions, and coal, and other articles

their necessities may require, as far as Japanese have them. The

time for opening the first-named port is immediately on signing this

treaty; the last-named port is to be opened immediately after the same

day in the ensuing Japanese year.

“NOTE.—A tariff of prices shall be given by the Japanese officers of

the things which they can furnish, payment for which shall be made in

gold and silver coin.

“ARTICLE III.—Whenever ships of the United States are thrown or wrecked

on the coast of Japan, the Japanese vessels will assist them, and

carry their crews to Shimoda or Hakodate, and hand them over to their

countrymen appointed to receive them. Whatever articles the shipwrecked

men may have preserved shall likewise be restored; and the expenses

incurred in the rescue and support of Americans and Japanese who may

thus be thrown upon the shores of either nation are not to be refunded.

“ARTICLE IV.—Those shipwrecked persons, and other citizens of the

United States, shall be free as in other countries, and not subjected

to confinement, but shall be amenable to just laws.

“ARTICLE V.—Shipwrecked men, and other citizens of the United States,

temporarily living at Shimoda and Hakodate, shall not be subject to

such restrictions and confinement as the Dutch and Chinese are at

Nagasaki; but shall be free at Shimoda to go where they please within

the limits of seven Japanese miles (or _ri_) from a small island in the

harbor of Shimoda, marked on the accompanying chart, hereto appended;

and shall, in like manner, be free to go where they please at Hakodate,

within limits to be defined after the visit of the United States

squadron to that place.

“ARTICLE VI.—If there be any other sort of goods wanted, or any

business which shall require to be arranged, there shall be careful

deliberation between the parties in order to settle such matters.

“ARTICLE VII.—It is agreed that ships of the United States resorting

to the ports open to them, shall be permitted to exchange gold and

silver coin, and articles of goods, for other articles of goods under

such regulations as shall be temporarily established by the Japanese

government for that purpose. It is stipulated, however, that the ships

of the United States shall be permitted to carry away whatever articles

they are unwilling to exchange.

“ARTICLE VIII.—Wood, water, provisions, coal, and goods required,

shall only be procured through the agency of Japanese officers

appointed for that purpose, and in no other manner.

“ARTICLE IX.—It is agreed, that if, at any future day, the government

of Japanese shall grant to any other nation or nations privileges and

advantages which are not herein granted to the United States and the

citizens thereof, that these same privileges and advantages shall be

granted likewise to the United States and to the citizens thereof

without any consultation or delay.

“ARTICLE X.—Ships of the United States shall be permitted to resort to

no other ports in Japan but Shimoda and Hakodate, unless in distress

or forced by stress of weather.

“ARTICLE XI.—There shall be appointed by the government of the United

States consuls or agents to reside in Shimoda, at any time after

the expiration of eighteen months from the date of the signing of

this treaty; provided that either of the two governments deem such

arrangement necessary.

“ARTICLE XII.—The present convention, having been concluded, and duly

signed shall be obligatory, and faithfully observed by the United

States of America and Japan, and by the citizens and subjects of

each respective power; and it is to be ratified and approved by the

President of the United States, by and with the advice and consent

of the Senate thereof, and by the august Sovereign of Japan, and the

ratification shall be exchanged within eighteen months from the date

of the signature thereof, or sooner if practicable.

“In faith whereof, we, the respective plenipotentiaries of the United

States of America and the empire of Japan, aforesaid, have signed and

sealed these presents.

“Done at Kanagawa[123] this thirty-first day of March, in the year of

our Lord Jesus Christ one thousand eight hundred and fifty-four, and

of Kayei the seventh year, third month, and third day.”

The day after the signing of the treaty a number of presents were sent

on board for the president, the commodore, and other officers of the

squadron.

In agreeing to negotiate at Yokohama, Commodore Perry had stated his

intention to carry the ships, at some future time, close up to Yedo,

and to anchor them there, “as well to do honor to his imperial majesty

by salutes as to be in full view of the palace, and convenient to be

visited by such of the court as may desire to examine the steamers.”

Accordingly, on the 8th of April, to the great distress of the Japanese

officials, he got under way; but, as the Japanese interpreters

threatened to cut themselves open if he proceeded, he presently turned

about and took a lower anchorage down the bay. The published official

letters of the commander say nothing of this movement; the letters from

the fleet, published in the newspapers, do not agree as to how far up

the commodore went. According to one letter, Yedo was full in sight.

On the 18th of April the fleet sailed for Shimoda, one of the ports

granted in the treaty, of which a letter dated on board the “Powhatan,”

and published in the New York “Tribune,” gives this account:

Shimoda is situated near Cape Fògu [?], sixty miles west from Point

Sagami, at the entrance of the bay of Yedo. It is a good, commodious

harbor, well sheltered by hills several hundred feet high, with a rock

within the entrance which affords a still more protected anchorage.

The town, of about one thousand houses, is situated at the northwestern

end of the harbor, on the banks of a small stream flowing down through

a fertile valley, which is often not more than half a mile wide, but

sometimes widens to one and a half miles. Several little brooks offer

good watering-places for the ships. The larger Japanese junks mostly

anchor at Kakizaki, a village of about three hundred houses, on the

northeastern end and opposite Shimoda. There are eight temples, some

of which are very large, in the town, and little chapels (_miya_) on

almost every eminence, and by the roadsides.

“The country is exceedingly picturesque, and resembles very much the

lower ranges of the Alps. Along the little river of Shimoda are many

villages, and numbers of rice-mills stamp and grind along its banks.

About six miles above the bay this river separates into several

branches. Following either of them, you pass through numerous gorges

and glens, and finally reach the barren tops of mountains, some three

thousand feet high. Their summits and the narrow tablelands are covered

with bushy grass, among which a certain berry, upon which pheasants and

partridges feed, grows very plentifully.

“In one of the larger temples a place has been arranged for the

daguerreotype, and Mr. Brown is actively at work. He has obtained

many very fine daguerreotypes of the Japanese, and will have a

fine collection to show when he reaches home. Mr. Heine continues

his sketching, drawing, painting, gunning, skinning, pressing, and

preserving plants. Lieutenants Murray, Bent, Whiting, Nicholson,

etc., etc., have been busily engaged in the survey, and deserve no

small credit for their exertions and the important results they have

obtained.”

Of this visit to Shimoda, the officer of the “Vandalia” already quoted

thus speaks:

“Here we were permitted to go on shore and ramble about in a circuit

for ten miles, much to our delight as we all felt the want of exercise.

Excepting at Yokohama, where we were not allowed to go far from the

audience house, we had not been on shore since we left Lew Chew.

They watched us very closely at first, sending guards of soldiers to

accompany us, shutting the shops, and concealing the women; but in a

few days these restrictions were removed, and we were left undisturbed

to wander where we pleased. The town, containing eight thousand people,

is pleasantly situated in a well-cultivated valley, surrounded by high

hills that conceal from view the entrance to its safe and picturesque

harbor. The streets are wide and straight, and the better class of

houses two stories high, plastered, and roofed with elegant tiles.[124]

The interior is kept very clean and neat, and the rooms, covered with

mats, are separated from each other by sliding screens, that are closed

or removed at pleasure. There are no chimneys in Japan. A charcoal

fire is built in a little sandpit in the middle of the floor, around

which the family are usually found seated on their knees (qu. heels?),

drinking tea and smoking their pipes. Not a chair or any other piece

of furniture can be seen. Tubs of water are kept in front of each

house, as well as on the roofs, in readiness against any fire, for

conflagrations are so frequent and extensive that whole towns are

sometimes burnt down.

“The temples, chiefly Buddhist, are beautifully situated in the

suburbs. The entrance to them leads generally through rows of elegant

trees and wild camellias. They are large, plain structures, with high,

peaked roofs, resembling the houses pictured on Chinese porcelain.

In the space immediately in front is a large bell for summoning the

faithful, a stone reservoir of holy water, and several roughly hewn

stone idols. The doorway is ornamented with curious-looking dragons and

other animals, carved in wood. Upon entering, there is nothing special

about the buildings worth noting, the naked sides and exposed rafters

having a gloomy appearance. The altar is the only object that attracts

attention. It so much resembles the Roman Catholic, that I need not

describe it. Some of the idols on these altars are so similar to those

I have seen in the churches in Italy, that if they were mutually

translated I doubt whether either set of worshippers would discover

the change. The priests count beads, shave their heads, and wear

analogous robes, and the service is attended by the ringing of bells,

the lighting of candles, and the burning of incense. In fact, except

that the cross is nowhere to be seen, one could easily imagine himself

within a Roman Catholic place of worship.

“I saw some very pretty girls here. They understand the art of applying

rouge and pearl powder, as well as some of our ladies at home. The

married women have a horrid and disgusting fashion of staining their

teeth black.”

[Illustration: COMMODORE PERRY]

After remaining three weeks at Shimoda, which soon after was made

an imperial city, the sailing-vessels departed for Hakodate, followed

a few days after by the steamers. Of the island of Ōshima, near the

entrance of the bay of Yedo, and close to which the “Powhatan” passed,

the “Tribune” correspondent gives the following description:

“About noon we were within three miles of the island of Ōshima, and had

a fine opportunity of observing the traces of volcanic action which it

presents. The whole island is one immense volcano, the top of which

has fallen in and formed a great basin, which incessantly belches

forth white smoke and ashes. The edges of the crater are black, as if

charred by fire, and on the southwestern side of the island a stream of

lava reaches from the summit to the sea. Some large crevices continue

still smoking, and others are filled with ashes. A bluff near the sea,

about two hundred feet high, appears to be of recent formation, for

the bushes and trees along the edges of the lava have a yellow, burnt

appearance. The slopes of the mountain are covered with luxuriant

vegetation; and there are two towns, one on a narrow table-land, and

the other on the top of a steep cliff, near a suspicious-looking

crater. There is said to be a third village on the northwestern side of

the island.”[125]

Of Hakodate, in the island of Matsumae, already known to us by

Golownin’s description, which the squadron visited in the month of May,

the same letter affords the following account:

“Hakodate is another Gibraltar. It has the same long, low isthmus,

ending in the same mighty rock, with another city sitting at its

feet. The bay is seven or eight miles wide, with an entrance of two

or three miles in width; it is deep enough for ships-of-the-line to

approach within a mile of the shore, and its clayey bottom, free from

rocks or shoals, affords excellent anchorage, while it is defended from

the sea by a sand-bank, a prolongation of the isthmus. Behind the bay

the land is quite level, but at the distance of six or eight miles it

rises into a range of hills from one to three thousand feet high. These

hills, still covered with snow, send down several streams to the bay,

furnishing the best of water for ships. The plain is finely cultivated,

and fishing villages line the shore. We took fish plentifully,—one

day twenty buckets, with more than twenty fine salmon, some weighing

fifteen pounds.

“The city has, I should guess, about four thousand houses, and perhaps

five times as many inhabitants. The two main streets are parallel,

and run along the foot of the mountain. Narrower streets run from the

wharves up the mountain, crossing both the principal streets, one of

which is about thirty feet higher than the other. The lower of these is

almost as broad as Broadway, and infinitely cleaner. The houses on it

are well built; most of them have two stories, with shops on the ground

floor. The manner of building reminds one very strongly of Switzerland.

A flat, projecting roof is covered with shingles, which are fastened

by long poles, with stones laid upon them; broad galleries run quite

around the upper story; before the door is a little wooden porch; this,

too, with projecting gable, which, as well as the pillars that support

it, are often adorned with rich carving. The temples, one of which is

at least two hundred and fifty feet square, are profusely ornamented

with carvings. Dragons, horses, bulls, and hares figure largely, but

tortoises and cranes carry the day.”

From Hakodate, where the intercourse with the local officials was

entirely satisfactory, the ships returned to Shimoda, where, according

to an appointment previously made, the commodore met the four

commissioners, and three new ones, with whom he proceeded to negotiate

the following _Additional Regulations:_

“ARTICLE I.—The imperial governors of Shimoda will place

watch-stations wherever they deem best, to designate the limits of

their jurisdiction; but Americans are at liberty to go through them,

unrestricted, within the limits of seven Japanese ri, or miles (equal

to sixteen English miles); and those who are found transgressing

Japanese laws may be apprehended by the police and taken on board

their ships.

“ARTICLE II.—Three landing-places shall be constructed for the boats

of merchant ships and whale ships resorting to this port; one at

Shimoda, one at Kakizaki, and the third at the brook lying south-east

of Centre Island. The citizens of the United States will, of course,

treat the Japanese officers with proper respect.

“ARTICLE III.—Americans, when on shore, are not allowed access to

military establishments, or private houses, without leave; but they

can enter shops and visit temples as they please.

“ARTICLE IV.—Two temples, the Ryōsen-ji, at Shimoda, and the

Gyokusen-ji at Kakizaki, are assigned as resting-places for persons

in their walks, until public houses and inns are erected for their

convenience.

“ARTICLE V.—Near the Temple Gyokusen, at Kakizaki, a burial-ground has

been set apart for Americans, where their graves and tombs shall not

be molested.

“ARTICLE VI.—It is stipulated in the treaty of Kanagawa, that coal

will be furnished at Hakodate; but as it is very difficult for the

Japanese to supply it at that port, Commodore Perry promises to

mention this to his government, in order that the Japanese government

may be relieved from the obligation of making that port a coal dépôt.

“ARTICLE VII.—It is agreed that henceforth the Chinese language

shall not be employed in official communications between the two

governments, except when there is no Dutch interpreter.

“ARTICLE VIII.—A harbor-master and three skilful pilots have been

appointed for the port of Shimoda.

“ARTICLE IX.—Whenever goods are selected in the shops, they shall be

marked with the name of the purchaser and the price agreed upon, and

then be sent to the Goyōsho, or government office, where the money is

to be paid to Japanese officers, and the articles delivered by them.

“ARTICLE X.—The shooting of birds and animals is generally forbidden

in Japan, and this law is therefore to be observed by all Americans.

“ARTICLE XI.—It is hereby agreed that five Japanese ri, or miles,

be the limit allowed to Americans at Hakodate, and the requirements

contained in Article I. of these Regulations are hereby made also

applicable to that port within that distance.

“ARTICLE XII.—His Majesty the Emperor of Japan is at liberty to

appoint whoever he pleases to receive the ratification of the treaty

of Kanagawa, and give an acknowledgment on his part.

“It is agreed that nothing herein contained shall in any way affect

or modify the stipulations of the treaty of Kanagawa, should that be

found to be contrary to these regulations.”

Another important matter, in which the Japanese seem entirely to have

carried the day, was the settlement of the value of the American coins

to be received in payment for goods and supplies—a subject referred to

a commission composed of two United States pursers and nine Japanese.

The Japanese circulating medium was found to consist of old kas,

round, with a square hole in the middle, like the Chinese cash, but

thinner, and containing more iron; of four-kas pieces, in weight equal

to less than two of the others, probably, Kämpfer’s double zeni; but

principally of a new coin rated at one hundred kas,—apparently a

substitute for the strings of kas mentioned by Kämpfer and others.

These are oval-shaped pieces of copper, about the size and shape of

a longitudinal section of an egg, introduced within a recent period,

and weighing only as much as seven of the old kas (or, compared with

our cents, a little less than two of them). This over-valuation has,

of course, driven the old kas out of circulation, and made this

depreciated coin the integer of the currency. At the same time, it

has raised the nominal value of everything, as is evident in the

case of silver and gold. Instead of one thousand kas to the tael of

silver, the rate in former times, the government, which appears to

have the monopoly of the mines, sells silver bullion for manufacturing

use at two thousand two hundred and fifty kas for the tael,—a rate

fixed probably under some less depreciated state of the currency. But

when coined, a tael’s weight of silver is reckoned in currency at

six thousand four hundred kas, that is, at six tael and four mas, or

precisely the valuation, in Kämpfer’s time, of the gold koban; and

as the ichibu of his day, that is, _one fourth part_, as the word

signifies in Japanese, represented sixteen hundred kas in real weight

of silver, so the ichibu of the present day, of which there is both

a silver and a gold one, represents sixteen hundred kas of currency.

The bullion price of gold in Japan is only eight and a half times that

of silver instead of sixteen times, as with us; while in currency the

difference in value is only about as one to three and a half, the

price in silver, or copper hundred-kas pieces, of a tael’s weight of

gold bullion being nineteen taels, and the same when coined passing

as twenty-three taels, seven mas and five kanderin. Besides the gold

ichibu, the Japanese are represented as having three other gold coins,

thin, oval pieces, of the currency value respectively of one, ten, and

twenty taels;[126] also a coin, made of gold and silver, worth half an

ichibu, or eight hundred-kas pieces, and a small silver piece, worth a

quarter of an ichibu, or four hundred-kas pieces.

The Japanese commissioners insisted that our coin was but bullion

to them, the effect of which is to put our silver dollar, so far as

payments in Japan are concerned, precisely on a level with their silver

ichibu, which weighs only one third as much. Our gold coins, compared

with their gold coins, stand better, the relative weight of our gold

dollar and their gold ichibu being as 65.33 to 52.25; but as the copper

hundred-kas piece is their standard, and as its value in relation to

gold is rated so much higher than with us, our gold dollar, estimated

in this way, becomes worth only eight hundred and thirty-six kas, or

little more than eight and a third hundred-kas pieces, or not much more

than half an ichibu; the effect of all which is to give the Japanese

government, through whose hands all payments are made, a profit, after

recoinage, of sixty-six per cent, upon all payments in American coin.

As the Japanese commissioners would not depart from this scheme, the

commission dissolved without coming to any agreement on this point.

But the supplies furnished to the squadron were paid for at the rate

insisted upon by the Japanese; nor can private traders, as matters

stand, expect any better terms.

The rates of pilotage at Shimoda were fixed at fifteen dollars for

vessels drawing over eighteen feet, five dollars for vessels drawing

less than thirteen feet, and ten dollars for those of intermediate

size; only half of these rates to be paid in case of anchorage in the

outer harbor. Water was to be furnished at fourteen hundred kas the

boat-load, the ship finding casks. Wood was to be delivered on board at

seven thousand two hundred kas per cube of five American feet.

The price put by the Japanese upon a few tons of inferior coal,

brought to Shimoda, amounted, at their rate of exchange, to

twenty-eight dollars the ton. It did not appear that coal was anywhere

else mined except at the spot visited by Kämpfer and Siebold near

Kokura, and another mine in the province of Awa, in the island Shikoku.

The business thus completed, a parting entertainment was given on

board the “Mississippi”; and, after an interchange of presents, the

vessels on the 26th of June took their departure. Stopping at Lew Chew,

Commodore Perry negotiated a compact with the authorities of that

island, which, from all the information he could obtain, he concluded

to be a nearly independent sovereignty.

Within fifteen days after Commodore Perry’s departure from Shimoda,

the clipper ship “Lady Pierce,” from San Francisco, fitted out for the

express purpose of being the first American ship to arrive in Japan

after the opening of commercial relations, entered the bay of Yedo,

with the owner, Silas E. Burrows, on board.

He had with him a Japanese seaman, the sole survivor of a crew of

fifteen men, belonging to a junk which had been blown out to sea, and

was picked up near the Sandwich Islands, after having drifted about

for seven months. This man, who is represented as quite intelligent,

and who had resided for some time at San Francisco, was received with

lively demonstrations of pleasure by his countrymen.

[Illustration: THE RECEPTION OF COMMODORE PERRY BY THE JAPANESE EMPEROR]

With a party of the Uraga officials on board, the “Lady Pierce”

proceeded to within ten miles of Yedo, and her owners expressed a

desire to anchor off that city; but this was objected to by the

officers, who said, “It is not good; Commodore Perry did not go

there, and we hope you will not.”

During the stay of the vessel, every part of her was crowded with

visitors; and although at one time there must have been several

thousands in and around the ship, and although everything, silverware

included, was thrown open to their inspection, not a single article was

stolen.

Large presents of silk, porcelain, lackered ware, etc., were made to

Mr. Burrows, who, however, was informed that henceforward no foreign

intercourse would be permitted with Yedo, but that all vessels must

proceed either to Shimoda or Hakodate. Mr. Burrows himself proceeded

to Shimoda, but does not seem to have formed a very high idea of the

prospects of trade there.[127]

On the 18th of September, the steam-frigate “Susquehanna” again

appeared at Shimoda, on her way home via the Sandwich Islands,

followed on the 21st by the “Mississippi”; three days after which, the

“Susquehanna” left, and the “Mississippi” on the 1st of October. The

reception given to the officers of both ships was very cordial, and

their intercourse both with officials and the towns-people was almost

entirely free from any marks of that restraint and apparent suspicion

exhibited on former occasions. Besides an interchange of visits and

dinners, several Japanese officials attended, on a Sunday, divine

service on board the “Susquehanna.”

“Many of us,” writes an officer of the “Mississippi,” “entered houses

very frequently, and sat down with the people to smoke or drink tea.

One day the sound of a guitar attracted me, and I found an olive girl,

of some fifteen or sixteen years, who, not perceiving my presence,

continued her play. It was a strange tune, wild and melancholy, and

often abruptly interrupted by harsh accords. After a while some women

that had assembled around us made the girl aware of my presence; she

threw down her instrument and began to cry, and I could not induce her

to play again. The guitar was made of wood, with the exception of the

upper lid. Of the three strings, two were in the octave, the middle

one giving the fifth. The strings were not touched by the fingers, but

with a flat piece of horn, held between the thumb and third finger of

the right hand, in shape not unlike the one painters use to clean their

palettes and mix their colors.

“On another occasion I heard a young man playing a flute. This

instrument was of the most primitive description, consisting only of a

piece of hollow bamboo, bored with seven finger-holes, and the hole for

the mouth. The tunes were very strange, and appeared to me more like a

mass of confused sounds, than a regular harmony.[128]

“At the beginning of the new moon, I saw in several houses a sort of

domestic worship. A number of women had assembled before the shrine of

the household god, and, divided in two parties, were singing hymns,

one party alternately answering the other. Their song was accompanied

by strokes upon a little bell or gong, with a small wooden hammer;

and, as the bells were of different tones, the effect was by no means

unpleasant.”

“There are a number of temples near Shimoda,” writes an officer of the

“Susquehanna,” “and attached to each is a graveyard. At one of these,

situated near a village, there is a place set apart for Americans. Here

Dr. Hamilton was buried, being laid by the side of two others who had

died on the second visit of the ships. Each grave has its appropriate

stone, as with us, and by many of them are evergreens set in vases, or

joints of bamboo, containing water. Cups of fresh water are also set by

the graves, and to these, birds of dazzling plumage and delightful song

come and drink. The graves of the Americans were not forgotten.”

The officers were permitted to go into the country any distance they

wished, and the country people were found pleasant and sociable; but

upon this second visit the advantages of Shimoda as a place of trade,

or the prospects of traffic under the treaty, do not seem to have

struck the visitors very favorably. “The harbor,” writes an officer

of the “Susquehanna” to the “Tribune,” “is a small indentation of

land, running northeast and southwest, about a half-mile in extent,

and is capable of holding five or six vessels of ordinary size. It

is, however, entirely unprotected from the southwest winds, which

bring with them a heavy sea, and which renders the anchorage very

unsafe. With the wind from the north and the east, the vessel rides

at her ease at her anchorage. Good wood and sweet water, as well as

a few provisions, were obtained from the authorities, for the use of

the ships, at the most extravagant prices. Numerous articles, such as

lackered and China ware, of a very fine and delicate quality, and far

superior to that manufactured in China, were purchased by the officers;

but every article had to pass through the hands of the Japanese

officers, and the amount due the merchants had to be paid, not to them

but to the Japanese officials who had been appointed for that very

purpose by the mayor of the city and the governor of the province. This

article of the treaty will be most scrupulously enforced; and this is

decidedly its worst feature.”

“Shimoda,” writes another officer, “does not appear well calculated,

upon the whole, for a place of trade, and it can never become an active

commercial town. Neither is it a manufacturing town. This, added to the

fact that the harbor is a bad one, will make it appear evident that the

Japanese commissioners got the better of us in the treaty, as far as

this place is concerned.

“The surrounding country (wherever nature will permit it) is highly

cultivated. The valley of the creek is broad and well tilled, yielding

rice, millet, Egyptian corn and maize.[129] The ears produced by the

last are very small, being not more than from two to four inches in

length. Sweet potatoes and the eggplant are also raised in great

abundance. There are no horses about Shimoda, and bullocks are made

to supply their places. Provisions, with the exception of eggs and

vegetables, cannot be obtained here. The shark and bonito are the only

large fish found in the harbor. Small fish are plentiful, and they seem

to form almost the only article of food of the inhabitants, besides

rice.”

The following description of the houses at Shimoda, by Mr. S. Wells

Williams, will serve to illustrate the descriptions of Japanese houses

already given from Kämpfer and Thunberg, and will show how little, as

to that matter, Japan has altered since their time:

“The houses in Shimoda are built merely of pine boards, or of plaster

thickly spread over a wattled wall of laths, the interstices of which

are filled in with mud. In some cases these modes of construction are

combined—the front and rear being of boards, or sliding panels, and the

sides of mud. When thoroughly dried, the mud is whitewashed, and the

plain surface worked into round ridges, three inches high, crossing

each other diagonally from the roof to the ground; the ridges are

then washed blue, and give the exterior a checker-board look, which,

though singular, is more lively than a blue mud wall. The plaster is

excellent, and these walls appear very solid and rather pretty when

new; at a distance one would even think them to be stone; but after a

few years the ridges loosen, the rain insinuates itself beneath the

outer coating, and the whole begins to scale and crack off, disclosing

the mud and rushes, and then the tenement soon falls to pieces. Still

the progress of decay is not so rapid as one would think, judging only

by the nature of the materials, and the walls are well protected by the

projecting eaves. No bricks are used in building, nor are square tiles

for floors seen; and the manner of making walls common in southern

China, by beating sanded clay into wooden moulds, is unknown.

“Some of the best houses and temples have stone foundations, a few only

of which are made of dressed stone. Half a dozen or more storehouses

occur, faced entirely with slabs of stone, and standing detached from

other buildings, and are doubtless fire-proof buildings. There are no

cellars under the houses; the floors are raised on sleepers only two

feet above the beaten ground, and uniformly covered with straw mats

stuffed with chaff, or grass an inch thick. The frames are of pine, the

joists four or five inches square, and held together by the flooring of

the attic, as well as the plates and ridge-pole. The houses and shops

join each other on the sides, with few exceptions, leaving the front

and rear open. There is no uniformity in the width of the lots, the

fronts of some shops extending twenty, thirty, or more feet along the

street, while intermediate ones are mere stalls not over ten feet wide.

“The shops succeed each other without any regular order as to their

contents, those of the same sort not being arranged together, as is

often the case in China. The finer wares are usually kept in drawers,

so that, unless one is well acquainted with the place, he cannot easily

find the goods he seeks. The eaves of the houses project about four

feet from the front and are not over eight feet from the ground; the

porch thus made furnishes a covered place for arranging crockery,

fruits, etc., for sale, trays of trinkets on a movable stall, baskets

of grain, or other coarse articles, to attract buyers. The entrance

is on one side, and the path leads directly through to the rear. The

wooden shutters of shops are all removed in the daytime, and the

paper windows closed, or thrust aside, according to the weather. On a

pleasant day the doors are open, and in lieu of the windows a screen

is hung midway so as to conceal the shopman and his customer from

observation, while those goods placed on the stand are still under his

eye. A case, with latticed or wire doors, to contain the fine articles

of earthen ware, a framework, with hooks and shelves, to suspend

iron utensils or wooden ware, or a movable case of drawers, to hold

silks, fine lackered ware, or similar goods, constitute nearly all

the furniture of the shops. Apothecaries’ shops are hung with gilded

signs and paper placards, setting forth the variety and virtues of

their medicines, some of which are described as brought from Europe.

The partition which separates the shop from the dwelling is sometimes

closed, but more usually open; and a customer has, generally speaking,

as much to do with the mistress as the master of the establishment.

When he enters, his straw sandals are always left on the ground as he

steps on the mats and squats down to look at the goods, which are then

spread out on the floor. A foreigner has need of some thoughtfulness in

this particular, as it is an annoyance to a Japanese to have his mats

soiled by dirty feet, or broken through by coarse shoes.

[Illustration: SCENE IN THE HARBOR OF URAGA]

“The rear of the building is appropriated to the family. Here the

domestic operations are all carried on; here the family take their

meals in the day; here, on the same mats, do they sleep at night;

receiving visitors and dressing the children are also done here, and

sometimes the cooking too. Usually this latter household task is

performed in the porch in the rear, or in an out-house, so that the

inmates are not so much annoyed with smoke as they are in Hakodate.

No arrangements for warming the dwelling are to be found, except

that of hand-braziers placed in the middle of the room with lighted

charcoal, around which the family gather. In most of the houses there

is a garret, reached by a ladder,—a dark and small apartment, where

some goods can be stored, or servants can be lodged. There is not a

house in the town whose occupants have arranged this attic with windows

and stairways to make it a pleasant room; a few such were, however,

seen near the capital, at Kanagawa, and in its vicinity.

“The roofs of all the best buildings are hipped, and covered with

bluish tiling, each tile being about eight inches square, shaped

somewhat like a wedge; the thick side is so made that, when laid on the

rafters, it laps sideways over the thin edge of the adjoining tile in

the next row, and thus forms gutters somewhat like the Chinese roofs.

They are washed in alternate rows of white and blue, which, with the

checkered walls, imparts a lively aspect, and contrasts pleasantly

with the more numerous dingy thatched roofs. The thatched roofs are

made of a species of Arundo, grown and prepared for this purpose,

and answering admirably as a cheap and light covering to the wooden

tenements occupied by most of the people. It is matted into a compact

mass eighteen inches thick, as it is laid on, and then the surface and

the sides are neatly sheared. The ridge-pole is protected by laying the

thatch over a row of hoops that enclose it enough to overlap the edges

on both slopes, and prevent the rain finding entrance. One cannot feel

surprise at the ravages fires make in Japanese towns, where the least

wind must blow the flame upon such straw coverings, which, like a

tinder-box, would ignite at the first spark. Wires are stretched along

the ridges of some of the tiled roofs in Shimoda to prevent birds from

resting on the houses.

“In the rear yards, attached to a large number of the dwellings,

are out-houses, and sometimes, as in the lodging-houses, additional

sleeping-rooms. Kitchen-gardens are not unfrequently seen, and more

rarely fancy fish-ponds, dwarfed trees, and even stone carvings. A

family shrine, made like a miniature house, containing images of

penates and lares, is met with in most of the yards. Only a few of them

are adorned with large trees, and still fewer of them exhibit marks of

care or taste, presenting in this respect an observable contrast to

the neatness of the houses. High hedges or stone walls separate these

yards when they are contiguous, but the depth of the lots is usually

insufficient to allow room for both the opposite dwellings the luxury

of a garden.

“There is not much variety in the structure of the various buildings

in Shimoda, and their general appearance denotes little enterprise

or wealth. The paper windows and doors, not a few of them dirty and

covered with writing, or torn by children to take a peep inside, impart

a monotonous aspect to the streets. Dyers’, carpenters’, blacksmiths’,

stone-cutters’, and some other shops, have latticed fronts to admit

more light, which are elevated above the observation of persons

passing by. In front of those dwellings occupied by officials, a white

cotton curtain, three feet wide, is stretched along the whole length

of the porch, having the coat of arms of the occupant painted on it

in black; the names of the principal lodgers are also stuck on the

door-posts. Signs are mostly written on the doors, as the windows

are drawn aside during the day; but only a portion of the shops have

any. Lodging-houses, barbers’ shops, restaurants, or tea-houses,

apothecaries, and a few others, are almost always indicated by signs.

One dealer in crockery and lackered ware has the sign of a celebrated

medicine placed on a high pole, and, the more to attract attention,

has written the name in foreign letters. As in China, placards for

medicines were the most conspicuous of all, but none are pasted upon

blank walls; all are suspended in the shops. However, no dwelling or

shop is left unprotected from the ill-usage of malignant spirits, every

one having a written or printed charm or picture (sometimes a score or

more) over the door to defend the inmates from evil.”

In the interval between Commodore Perry’s first and second visits to

the bay of Yedo, Nagasaki was visited by a Russian squadron. On the 7th

of September, 1854, just before the last visit of the “Mississippi”

and “Susquehanna” to Shimoda, a British squadron of three steamers and

a frigate arrived at Nagasaki under Admiral Sterling. These British

vessels, which found the annual Dutch trading-ship, two large Chinese

junks, also a Dutch steamer, lying in the harbor, encountered the usual

reception, being served with notices, surrounded with boats, and denied

liberty to land. At length, however, after a deal of negotiation and

threats to proceed to Yedo, it was agreed to furnish supplies, tea,

rice, pigs, etc., and to receive payment through the Dutch. On the 15th

the admiral landed, and was conducted in state to the governor’s house.

The guard-boats were withdrawn, and the men were allowed to land on an

island to recreate themselves. Other interviews followed, presents were

interchanged, and, on the 19th, the squadron left. These particulars

are drawn from the published letter of a medical officer on board, who

describes the supplies furnished as very good, and the Japanese soy as

cheap and nice, but who does not seem to have relished the sake, which

he likens in taste to acetate of ammonia water.

The American war-steamer “Powhatan” visited Shimoda February 21, 1855,

to complete the exchange of ratification, which done, she sailed again

two days after. The town of Shimoda was found in a state of desolation

and ruin, from the effects of a disastrous earthquake, on the 23d of

December previous, in which the Russian frigate “Diana,” then lying in

the harbor to complete the pending negotiations, was so damaged as to

have sunk in attempting to make a neighboring port for repairs. Ōsaka

and Yedo were reported to have suffered severely, and Yedo still more

from a subsequent fire.

[See also “Matthew Calbraith Perry” (Griffis) and the Official Report

of Commodore Perry’s Expedition.—EDR.]