CHAPTER III.

EXCISE IN NEW NETHERLAND.

We will now return to our narrative. At the time of the brewers’

protest against the excise, the number of tapsters in New Amsterdam

and the surrounding country was very large; but, singular as it may

appear, there was but one tavern for the entertainment of strangers,

and this a clumsy stone building which Kieft had caused to be erected

at the Company’s expense in 1642. In that patriarchal spirit which

characterized all his acts, he assumed a close supervision over this

primitive hotel, the patronage of which must have been all the more

profitable because the Governor, to prevent the influx of runaway

servants and culprits, had prohibited the entertainment of strangers

by private families for more than one night without his permission.

This stone tavern was subsequently enlarged and fitted up for use as a

Stadthuis (City Hall). During the remainder of his administration Kieft

gave no further trouble to the brewers; but the tax continued to be

collected.

When Kieft was recalled, and succeeded by Governor Stuyvesant, the

abolition of the excise was asked for, but was peremptorily refused.

The hope that the excise would be abolished had been raised by Kieft

himself, who had promised the Eight Men that upon the arrival of his

successor a change would be effected. Stuyvesant, however, had no such

intentions; on the contrary, he at once imposed new taxes, inaugurated

a system of excises and licenses, and introduced a number of

innovations designed to bring the business under better control. Thus,

he ordered the complete separation of brewing and tapping, forbidding

brewers to retail and tapsters to brew beer. Unlike his predecessor,

he desired an improvement in the accommodations for travellers, and

therefore ordered that tapsters and tavern-keepers should build better

houses for the entertainment of guests. But as the number of tapsters

and spirit venders had already grown too large, he refused to license

new places. Stuyvesant’s own report shows that, in 1651 or thereabouts,

nearly the just fourth of the City of New Amsterdam consisted of

brandy-shops, tobacco or beer-houses. This was certainly an exaggerated

statement; yet from all other evidences it must be inferred that the

consumption of liquors was enormous. We find, at a fair calculation

based on the two essential factors, viz.: amount of excise and

population, that the tax paid for drink amounted to four guilders for

every man, woman and child of the community.

[Sidenote: GOVERNOR STUYVESANT’S REGULATIONS]

It will be readily understood that the law prohibiting brewing by

tapsters yielded additional advantages to the brewers proper, and that

the tapping of beer by brewers in violation of the ordinance, occurred

very rarely. Yet so anxious was Stuyvesant to prevent evasions of his

orders that he even forbade brewers to sell or give beer by the small

measure to anyone—even to their boarders, “who, they pretended, came

at meal times to eat with them.” By way of additional safeguard, he

required the brewers to obtain a permit from the Secretary of the

Colony whenever they wished to remove beer from their brew-houses.

To enforce all these new laws and ordinances, promulgated for the

sole purpose of securing as nearly as possible the full amount of

taxes due the exchequer, Stuyvesant appointed inspectors, gaugers and

revenue supervisors. Nevertheless, either on account of his natural

distrustfulness or because he wished to set a good example to his

officers, he frequently visited and inspected the taverns himself to

make sure that his laws were obeyed. Money still being scarce, he

increased the excise again and again, without permitting the brewers

to raise the price of their product, until the beer-drinkers loudly

complained that with every increase of tax, the brewers made their beer

“thinner and poorer.” These complaints finally induced him to adjust

the prices of beer in accordance with the increased cost of production,

and to prescribe minutely the quality of the article.

It may interest the reader to learn that beer, in those days, was made

either of malted barley, wheat or oats, and that whenever there was a

scarcity of any of these cereals, the lawmakers usually forbade the

malting of it. Here, as in the New England colonies, the law provided

for three grades of beer: the first grade requiring six bushels of malt

for every hogshead; the second, four bushels; the third, two bushels.

Complaints about the quality of beer were sometimes investigated by

a court composed of the schepens and burgomasters. In 1655, when one

of the burgomasters and two of the schepens were brewers, this court,

being engaged in the consideration of such a complaint, adjourned and

personally sampled the beer in dispute; whereupon they gave judgment in

accordance with their own evidence.

[Sidenote: CONFLICT WITH THE PATROON]

Before the administration of Stuyvesant, the Patroons regulated the

liquor traffic in their own way. In Rensselaerwyck, the condition of

affairs now became somewhat muddled, as will presently be shown, in

consequence of the conflict of authority between the Patroon and the

representatives of the Director of the Colony. The manner in which the

Patroon first regulated the traffic was simple enough.

As we have already stated, he established a brewery with the exclusive

privilege of supplying all licensed retailers with beer; but he

permitted private individuals to brew whatever beer they needed

for their own families. Subsequently, however, other brewers were

licensed. In the dorp (village) of Beverwyck—the present Albany—which

had sprung up in the immediate neighborhood of Fort Orange, and, in

fact, throughout the colony, permission to build houses, establish

stores, factories, shops, beer-houses, etc., had to be obtained from

the Commissaries to whom the government was entrusted. This permission

had to be paid for in some instances, while in others it was given

gratuitously.

As a rule, the license to brew beer for sale did not belong to the

latter category; on the other hand, the fee for such license seems

to have been very high. In 1647, Jean Labadie, formerly an assistant

commissary, applied for permission to build a brewery, which was

granted on his paying a yearly duty in the shape of beaver, amounting

in value to about eighty dollars. Many other licenses had been granted

since then, and the number of tapsters seems to have been very large;

good reasons why the Court at Fort Orange, representing the Stuyvesant

Government, should insist upon the payment of the tax.

The Patroon, however, frustrated the first attempt to collect the

excise and issued a proclamation expressly forbidding the brewers

and tapsters to pay any duties. The tapsters, of course, readily

obeyed this order. Finally, Stuyvesant ordered the Court at Orange to

arrest one of the refractory tapsters, named Ariensen, and send him

to Manhattan. The clerk of this court, Johann De Decker, successfully

carried out this order by a ruse. He invited the unsuspecting

Ariensen to his house and detained him, in spite of the protests of

Van Rensselaer and the “schout” of the colony, and notwithstanding

the offer of the former to vouch for the appearance of the prisoner.

Ariensen, although compelled for security’s sake, to sleep in De

Decker’s bed and to be watched over by a servant, managed to escape

and took refuge in the house of Van Rensselaer. De Decker pursued the

fugitive with the intention of re-apprehending him, but was met by a

body of armed men who appeared determined to use force of arms, if

necessary, to prevent the officer from fulfilling his duty. Bloodshed

would inevitably have followed an attempt to recapture Ariensen, and,

to avoid this, the officer retired, reporting the failure of his

mission to the Director and asking that more soldiers be sent with him,

having “among them one or two who are not nice about taking hold of a

man.”

As was to be expected, Stuyvesant resorted to measures which soon

rendered the Patroon amenable to law and order, and the revenues

derived from tapsters alone rose, within one year, from an

insignificant sum to 4,200 guilders, in 1657. Nothing noteworthy

occurred thereafter during Dutch dominion.

Nicolls, the first English Governor of New Netherland, paid some

attention to brewing. Among the laws which he submitted to the Assembly

convened at Hempstead, and which are known as the Duke of York’s Laws,

was one providing that no person should be allowed to brew beer for

sale without having “sufficient skill and knowledge in the art and

mystery of brewing,”[3] and otherwise regulating the trade with a view

to securing wholesome beverages. He also introduced the fee-feature

into the license-system governing retailers. In his endeavor to

conciliate the conquered Dutch burghers, he, however, refrained for a

time from strictly enforcing this rule and other excise-regulations

contemplated by his principal. It was not until 1670 that he gave

peremptory orders for the collection of the excise.

[3] The first regular brew-master (in the modern sense of the

word) was probably R.H. Vansoest, who came to Albany in 1635 to

take charge of the Patroon’s brewery.

From the date of the recovery of the Colony by the Dutch up to the

second surrender to the English (1674), the liquor traffic received

but casual attention in New York; and for many years after the

re-establishment of English supremacy, the annals of the Colony contain

no indications of great progress in brewing.

In the succeeding chapters the further development of brewing in New

York receives sufficient attention to justify our closing this chapter

at this point so as to avoid useless repetitions, and to prevent the

overtaxing of the reader’s patience.

American Beer: Glimpses of Its History and Description of Its Manufacture · 第 3 / 11 章