To board a train after our long sea-trip was a delightful change. After
passing through quaint villages, rice fields, and interesting garden
patches we arrived at Tokyo in time for the ambassador's reception. The
moment one talks to Charles Warren, in charge of our American Embassy in
Japan, one feels that our Japanese problems are in very conservative and
capable hands.
Between receptions, we visited many quaint and beautiful temples. At one
we were so hospitably received, served with tea and dainty rice cakes
made with a special emblem upon them for the occasion that we forgot to
grumble about being made to remove our shoes. Only a few of the party
remembered the Japanese custom of removing the outer foot-gear, when
entering their temples, and came prepared with easily removed pumps.
They had a good laugh at the row of dignified, badge-bedecked
representatives, solemnly lacing up their shoes, while sitting on the
stoop about a foot from the ground, with the blazing sun upon them.
When we talked to some of the American residents in Japan, they all got
on the old familiar subject, the high cost of living, but they seem to
agree that it cost just twice as much to live in Japan as any other
place in the world. It seems that without considering the high rent, an
amah (a sort of maid who will do only certain duties), a house boy (who
is anywhere from twelve to sixty years old), and a cook (who gets a
commission on everything you buy) must be kept, even in the simplest of
homes. Those accustomed to one servant in America usually find it
necessary to have from three to six in Japan. Of course their wages are
less than in the United States, but food is very high. Rice, for
instance, was twenty percent higher than in America. Inferior coal was
twenty-two fifty a ton, and the high ceilinged, furnace less houses
require a great deal of coal and wood in winter. Very few Americans use
the jammed street cars. Automobiles are very expensive to maintain, not
only on account of the rough streets, but the licenses are very high.
One of our party hired a rick-shaw for twenty minutes and paid a yen
(about fifty cents), so residents usually find it more economical to
keep their own rick-shaws and coolies.
Certainly the Japanese are past masters in entertaining. No wonder it is
said that some of our former diplomats were so much influenced by their
lavish entertainment's that they lost their heads. The Chamber of
Commerce of Tokyo greeted our Chamber of Commerce representatives at an
elaborate theatre party. An especially staged Japanese drama, followed
by a comedy, with a sumptuous dinner between the acts, was only a part
of the entertainment. A. I. Esberg and Byron Mauzy answered the banzis,
of the oldest merchant in Japan, Baron Okura, with three rousing cheers
for the Japanese, after the formal addresses had been made.
Everywhere we were met with politeness and courtesy. To the casual
observer the military element is not noticeable in the home life of the
common people, as they are rapt in their work, very industrious and get
their pleasure talking to their ever present babies, or tending some
little plants, even if squalor surrounds them. But the word of the ones
higher up is absolute law to them. Discipline is supreme from the time
the small boy is taught the "Goose Step," preparatory to his military
training, until he obediently marries the girl his parents have selected
for him. He does what he is told without a murmur, as does his wife who
is his absolute slave.
One understands why some call Japan the Germany of the East, which
country, some of our delegates were told by foreign residents, Japan
greatly admires. It is said that her people were more than surprised and
disappointed when the armistice was signed; as the Japanese press was so
well censored it gave no indication that Germany could be defeated.
After a day of sight-seeing, and investigating various trade conditions,
our party found the rickshaw ride back to the hotel, at dusk, most
interesting and quite exciting, if one has not become accustomed to the
rule of turning to the left instead of the right, as we do at home.
Packed street cars, automobiles, carts piled high with incredible loads
pulled by coolies, a girder being dragged by a scrawny horse led by a
seemingly tireless, whip-equipped native, all apparently were about to
collide with our rick-shaw party. We seemed to be always in the way and
always on the wrong side of the street. We remembered with a shudder,
that the Japanese believe it noble to die, and seemingly, they were
going to drag us to destruction with them. We tried to get them to go
slower but could not think of the Japanese words, so we might just as
well have tried to stop the North wind, as to have changed the orders
given by our interpreter to the coolies.