Chapter IV

On October 10, Dorothy Gee, the Chinese girl banker of San Francisco,

presided over the ceremony celebrating the tenth anniversary of the

Chinese independence Day, held in the steerage. Besides giving a clever

address, she acted as interpreter for the speeches delivered by F. R.

Eldridge, chief of the Far Eastern Division for the Bureau of Foreign

and Domestic Commerce, A. F. Morrison and A. I. Esberg.

Many of us felt a great curiosity to see the engine that had pushed us

through the storm, so we descended countless iron stairs, down to the

very bottom of the ship; above us towered a bewildering assortment of

ladders, levers, pipes and valves. The heat was over-powering, so we

rushed to the ventilator and cooled off quickly. The deafening noise

prevented us from hearing all the engineer's explanations. Next we were

taken singly (as the space between the two massive doors will not permit

of more) through the two massive doors separating the boilers from the

rest of the ship. In case of an accident all the doors of the ship,

including these, could be automatically closed from the deck, dividing

the ship into three compartments.

We saw how the thirty-seven cakes of ice, consumed daily, were made,

inspected the laundry and peeked in where the precious, rapidly

diminishing liquors were stored, and we all felt satisfied that we knew

"What made the wheels go around."

With the regular meetings of the Executive committee, with Herbert

Hoover's Trade Investigation committee (consisting of Lansing Hoyt, C.

J. Mayer, Gordon Enders, E. Kehich, Paul Steindorff and headed by F. R.

Eldridge), mingling with the party to assist in establishing friendly

commercial relationship; with all those identified with certain

businesses and professions divided into groups, and even with the women

organized, we felt ready to meet any Oriental dignitaries, or

delegations.

We remember well how often Warren Shannon, with his unfailing humor,

sent us into gales of laughter, auctioning off the numbers that

represented the possible run of the ship on the following day. Louis

Mooser bid the first one hundred dollars on the number that won the

pool. C. H. Matlage, William Muir, F. H. Speich, Louis Brown, Mrs. S.

Schwartz and Mrs. Carrie Schwabacher were also heavy bidders.

Everyone started borrowing clothes from everyone else, right after

breakfast, the day of the masquerade. P. J. Lyon made a very gay girl,

C. R. Reed went as Woodrow Wilson, A. I. Esberg as a Chinese, C. B.

Lastrete as a bandit, Margarete Rice as Cleopatra, Mrs. Bruce Foulkes as

a beautiful Spanish senorita, Constant Meese, W. Levintritt, F. W. Boole

and C. H. Matlage as "Four Dainty Kewpies," Edward C. Wagner as an

oiler, and Carl Westerfeld was a regular devil.

Of course, Mrs. A. Gee, Mrs. A. B. Luther, Mrs. Washburn, Mrs. Wheeler,

Mrs. Boole, Mrs. Wood, Mrs. Shannon and Mrs. Grady looked charming, as

usual. The Misses Bridge, Miss Kinslow, Miss Neff and Miss Bell also

looked attractive. Dr. Gates, Dr. Judell, Miss Simon, Mrs. Rothenberg,

Mrs. Denson, Mrs. Dunn, Mrs. Yates, the Misses Hunter, Mrs. Barnard,

Miss James, Mrs. Ross, A. W. Morton, Jr., and Mrs. Krull went to such a

lot of trouble to get up their interesting costumes. Henry S. Bridge

had, "a fine make-up" and looked like a real Southern Negro. Pretty Miss

Howlett and Miss Wood always made one think of the posters of "Sweet

Sixteen."

Warren Shannon's Entertainment committee, assisted by Miss Moore, Miss

Craig, Mrs. Bercovich and Mrs. Panter, certainly discovered the talent

on board and we will always be grateful for the sweet singing of

charming Mrs. Gale, Mrs. Brown, Mrs. Schwartz and Miss Reed and the

playing of Miss Moore, Mrs. Alexander and of our talented "Mary."

If anyone felt a bit out of sorts all they had to do was to think of the

courage and sweet, uncomplaining manner of Mrs. Morrison or what good

sailors Mrs. Anna R. Luther and Miss Louise Elliott were trying to be.

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Columbus never strained his eyes more eagerly to see land than the San

Francisco Chamber of Commerce representatives did, when someone said

that the dim outline of Fujiyama might be visible above the hazy shore

that looked as much like clouds as land.

All the men of the party were so busy with their field glasses, admiring

Yokohoma Harbor's wonderful fortifications, that they did not even hear

the women question what sort of a dress would be suitable for the coming

grand reception, and yet, at the same time withstand sight-seeing in the

dust of the streets. Even Mary Garden on her opening night did not

receive such rapt attention as did this harbor.

As we looked down over the huge side of the Empire State upon the

turmoil of humanity, baggage and freight and the uneven street beyond,

we gave thanks to the Baptist missionary, who is credited with making an

old baby carriage into the first rickshaw, for the convenience of his

sick wife. When we saw the little brown men actually run away with our

most corpulent representatives, without any apparent effort, we forgot

all about "Man's inhumanity to man" and no baby ever enjoyed its first

perambulator outing more than our party.

First, we swooped down upon the banks to change our money, but the yen

and sen counted out to us seemed as valueless as stage money. However,

we grew to respect it, after visiting Benton Dori and departing with

elaborate kimonos that the shrewd businessmen and women of the party

would have passed by as being too expensive, at home.

It was great fun after being extravagant to figure out that a yen is

only a little over half as much as one of our dollars and that one had

only spent half as much as one thought.

Our party met the ladies (some of them American college graduates) and

gentlemen of the Yokohama Chamber of Commerce at a big reception in a

theatre. The governor, through his interpreter, said that our arrival

was on the first sunny day they had had in some time, that the

chrysanthemums were just blooming, and that this was a good omen, for

the war clouds had vanished. Geisha girls danced while singing a

specially composed chant of welcome, and an elaborate luncheon was

served in an adjoining hall. A. I. Esberg and F. R. Eldridge answered

the welcome saying, "That we hoped to establish much more friendly and

permanent relationship with the people of Japan."

Most of the party had the inevitable tea in the foreign settlement,

known as the Bluff. Most of these houses are of the vintage of fifty

years ago and range in rental from $125 to $150, unfurnished, the tenant

having to install his own plumbing if he wishes such a luxury. We wanted

to know why some better arrangement was not made and were reminded of

the law that does not permit of any foreign ownership of land.

Louis Mooser, former head of the San Francisco Real Estate Board, was

much interested in the situation. It seems that about one-seventh of the

small area available for foreigners was under perpetual lease to the

Germans and we were told that when war broke out it was taken over by

the Japanese, who only allowed their own race to buy, and all rents were

immediately raised.

It was said that instead of complaining about how little land Japan was

allowed in the United States, it would be fairer to give Americans in

Japan the same privileges that she enjoys in some of our states.

Americans in Yokohoma say that the Japanese law drafted to relieve this

situation and often proudly referred to by Japanese diplomats, has never

really been passed and therefore has no value. They add that if old

Marquis Okuma had more peace-craving followers and the lawmakers were

responsible to the people instead of the Emperor, for whom they are said

to act, differences between the United States and Japan could be more

quickly and completely settled.

The Log of the Empire State · 第 4 / 12 章