Voyage upon the Hudson: Treason of Arnold: Military School at West
Point: Newburgh: Poughkeepsie: Clermont: Catskill: Hudson: Albany:
Troy: Return to New York.
The steam-boat _James Kent_, in which we were embarked, had been
prepared for this trip with the greatest care by the committee appointed
by the city of New York to accompany general Lafayette; but as it had
not been foreseen that so many ladies designed to be of the party, it
happened that the greater part of the men were obliged to sleep upon
deck, although the steam-boat contained more than eighty beds. For
ourselves we in vain sought repose in a very pretty state-room, which we
occupied in common with general Lewis and colonel Fish. The sound of
cannon which every few minutes announced our passage by some village,
and the noise of our crew, who were endeavouring to push the boat off an
_oyster bank_, upon which she had grounded during the darkness,
prevented us from sleeping; at the first dawn of day, we went upon deck
to enjoy the view of the majestic banks of the Hudson. In fact, nothing
can be more imposing than the aspect of these high mountains, which,
covered with wood, or displaying their naked rocks, border the river
almost throughout its length. On entering, for the first time, into the
pass of the highlands, one feels almost disposed to share the
superstitious terror of the Indians, and one understands how that
phantoms and their sinister sighings have for a long time exercised
their empire, even upon the first Europeans who inhabited these
situations, where nature only shows herself under strange forms, and in
sombre colours. To the man who delights in the recollection of the
robberies of the middle ages, and loves to contemplate the ruins of old
Donjon’s ancient refuges of fierce feudalities, nothing without doubt is
comparable to the banks of the Rhine; but for one who prefers nature
still virgin and wild, there is nothing so beautiful as the banks of the
Hudson. This river has its source in the highest country between lakes
Ontario and Champlain, and divides the state of New York from north to
south for the length of 250 miles: it is navigable for sloops of 24
tons, as far as Albany, 160 miles from its mouth, and larger vessels can
ascend as far as the village of Hudson, at the distance of 132 miles
from New York. It would be difficult, I believe, to enumerate the boats
of all sorts and sizes which carry on the trade between Albany and New
York; the river is continually covered with them, and you can rarely
sail for a quarter of an hour without meeting with a long succession of
them. The tide rises a few miles above Albany, where it is twelve hours
later than at New York. The water is salt for fifty miles above Albany,
where the rise of the tide is commonly one foot. At Pellpel’s islands,
north of the highlands, it is about four feet, and at Kinderhook,
situated twenty-two miles south of Albany, three feet.
Notwithstanding the current, and contrary movement of the tide, we
advanced ten miles an hour. A group of old revolutionary soldiers
gathered around Lafayette on the deck, and were pleased to repeat the
details of events, which were awakened in their minds by every point on
the banks. We had passed Tarrytown, and at the view of this modest
village, the old soldier-citizens pronounced with respect the names of
the three militia men, John Paulding, David Williams, and Isaac Van
Wert, who have immortalized themselves as much by their noble
disinterestedness, as for the service they rendered to their country and
liberty in arresting Major André. _Stony Point_ and fort Lafayette,
where Washington, by the judicious choice of a good position, had broken
the communications of the English army, were far behind us, and our
captain informed us we should soon see West Point, when I remarked that
the regards of our travelling companions were sadly turned towards a
house which stood alone, not far from the bank, to which the foot of the
mountain was gently inclined. I soon heard the word _traitor_ coupled
with the name of Arnold; and this house, which excited so much
indignation, was actually the one in which the infamous Arnold
trafficked for the blood of his companions in arms, and for the
subjugation of his country. The history of Arnold teaches a great
lesson; it proves once more, the importance, in a well organized
government, of not trusting offices to any but men of acknowledged
morality. In a captain as in a magistrate, courage or talent without
probity are dangerous qualities, which cannot be employed without
exposure to great risks.
Arnold was born in Connecticut, but nature appears to have denied him
the virtues which so strongly characterize the inhabitants of that
state; however, from the commencement he embraced the sacred cause of
his country with ardour. His military talent, courage in battle,
resignation and patience under fatigues and privations, and especially
his brilliant services during the Canadian expedition, had gained him
great reputation in the army, and the confidence of Congress, which did
not think it too high a recompence to raise him to the rank of a major
general. He was wounded before Quebec, and was not yet entirely
recovered from his wounds, when the city of Philadelphia was entrusted
to him, after it was evacuated by the British in 1778.
Unfortunately, Arnold, along with the bravery he had shown before the
enemy, had nothing of that firmness of principle, and rectitude of
judgment, which alone could have enabled him to resist the numerous
seductions which necessarily surrounded him in the brilliant situation
he now held. Urged on by pride and a ridiculous vanity, and forgetting
his want of the resources of a large personal fortune, he launched into
all the unnecessary expenses of a sumptuous table and luxurious train.
He soon contracted debts beyond his revenue; in the hope of liquidating
which he entered into speculations which his official duties forbade,
and which had most disastrous results. Pushed by the demands of his
creditors, he sought relief by embezzlement of public money; but the
investigation of a committee of Congress discovered a considerable
deficit in his accounts, many citizens of Philadelphia complained of his
numerous exactions, and the government of Pennsylvania accused him of
still more grievous offences. Finally, in the month of June 1778,
Congress arrested and tried him by a court martial, which found him
guilty, and condemned him to be reprimanded by the commander in chief.
This sentence was approved by Congress, and carried into effect in the
beginning of 1779. Furious at being thus struck at the same time by the
law and public opinion, Arnold made bitter complaints against what he
called the ingratitude of his fellow-citizens, and swore to be revenged.
Great importance was at that time attached to the fortress of West
Point, for the preservation of which the American army had manœuvred a
long time, and frequently fought. This position was regarded as the key
of communication between the eastern and southern states. In fact, its
situation upon the brow of one of the highest mountains on the right
bank of the Hudson, and its double row of batteries and redoubts,
planned by the most skilful engineers, made an excellent defensive post,
the occupation of which gave great influence over the state of New York.
Arnold was not ignorant of this, and cast his eyes upon this important
point to wreak his vengeance. By force of intrigue and importunities, he
obtained the command of West Point, at the moment he wrote to the
English colonel, Robinson, that he abjured his revolutionary principles,
and sincerely desired to regain the esteem of the king, by a striking
proof of his penitence. This letter opened between him and sir Henry
Clinton an active correspondence conducted with great secrecy. The
principal object of this correspondence was to decide upon the means of
throwing the fortress of West Point as speedily as possible into the
hands of the English. To conduct this intrigue with greater certainty,
the English general selected one of his aids, major André, a young man
equally distinguished by his amiable qualities and military talents, who
had already acquired an excellent reputation among his companions in
arms. A sloop of war named the Vulture, carried up the Hudson as far as
the King’s ferry, twelve miles below West Point: from this place his
communications with Arnold became more frequent and easy, but for a
fuller understanding, it was indispensable that they should have an
interview, which Arnold insisted upon: André at first refused, either
because he felt a repugnance at finding himself in contact with a
traitor, or because he deemed it unworthy of a loyal officer to
penetrate an enemy’s lines under a name and dress not his own. However,
urged by a desire of answering the confidence of his general, he finally
accepted the rendezvous, which had been proposed for the night at the
house of one Joshua Smith, who was reputed to belong secretly to the
English party. Smith himself came in search of major André during the
night of the 21st of September, and brought him on shore in a boat rowed
by his own servants. André was received by Arnold on the bank, and
conducted to the house of Smith, where he remained concealed until the
next night. The conference being terminated, and the plans definitively
settled, André wished to profit by the darkness of the night to retire;
but on coming to the shore, he found that the Vulture had been obliged
to haul off, to avoid the fire of a battery with which she was
threatened; the boatmen who had brought him on shore, refused to carry
him to the sloop of war, and he was obliged to decide upon returning to
New York by land. To hasten his march, Smith furnished him with a horse,
and to render it secure, Arnold gave him a passport, under the name of
John Anderson, charged with public service. This passport served him to
get successfully through the American lines, and arrive at Crompond,
where Smith, who had accompanied him, took leave, after giving him
directions for continuing his journey. He was approaching the English
lines near Tarrytown, when suddenly a militia man, who was patrolling
between the two armies with two others, his comrades, rushed from behind
a bush, and seized his horse by the bridle. This sudden arrest deprived
André of his wonted presence of mind, and instead of presenting his
passport, he asked the militia men, “to which side do you belong?” “to
below,” was the reply; (the English army which occupied New York was
thus designated;) “and so do I,” imprudently answered André. Scarcely
had he uttered this fatal avowal, when the arrival of the two other
militia men revealed to him his error and danger. He thought to remedy
the one and escape the other, by offering to his captors a purse full of
gold, his very valuable watch, and by promising them, if they would let
him go, great wealth, and the protection of the English government. The
more brilliant the rewards he promised, the more were the three militia
men persuaded that his arrest would be serviceable to the cause of
independence, and they rejected his offers with disdain, declaring that
though they were very poor, all the gold upon earth would not tempt them
to forego their duty, and they immediately commenced a rigorous search
of their unfortunate prisoner, to discover if he conveyed any papers
capable of explaining his real character. Their suspicions were
confirmed by finding in his boots exact plans of the approaches and
defences of West Point, and many other details in Arnold’s hand writing,
confirmed their suspicions: they conveyed him to lieutenant colonel
Jamieson, who commanded the outposts. André, without doubt, intending to
let Arnold know that he must take care of his own safety, demanded that
Arnold should be immediately informed of the arrest of his officer
Anderson, on the way to New York. On the receipt of this news the
traitor fled, and sought the recompence of his infamy in the ranks of
the British army.
Major André declared himself a British officer as soon as he thought
Arnold was in safety. The immediate return of general Washington,
hastened the formation of a court martial, of which general Greene was
president, and general Lafayette and Baron Steuben, were among the
members. André appeared before this tribunal under the terrible
accusation of being a spy. His judges treated him with great deference
and lenity, and he was informed from the beginning of his trial, that he
need not answer any question which could wound his conscience. But the
young unfortunate, more jealous of his honour than of his life, freely
avowed his projects, and exposed his conduct without concealment, taking
no other pains than to exculpate those who had aided his enterprise. His
courage deeply affected his judges, who could scarcely conceal their
emotion in signing his condemnation. For himself he awaited his fate
with resignation. His last moments were worthy of his noble character;
the following details of which are given by an eye-witness, Dr.
Thacher.[14]
Extract from Thacher’s Journal.
“_October 2d._—Major André is no more among the living. I have just
witnessed his exit. It was a tragical scene of the deepest interest.
During his confinement and trial, he exhibited those proud and
elevated sensibilities which designate greatness and dignity of
mind. Not a murmur nor a sigh ever escaped him, and the civilities
and attentions bestowed on him were politely acknowledged. Having
left a mother and two sisters in England, he was heard to mention
them in terms of the tenderest affection, and in his letter to Sir
Henry Clinton, he recommends them to his particular attention.
“The principal guard officer who was constantly in the room with the
prisoner, relates that when the hour of his execution was announced
to him in the morning, he received it without emotion, and while all
present were affected with silent gloom, he retained a firm
countenance, with calmness and composure of mind. Observing his
servant enter the room in tears, he exclaimed, “leave me till you
can show yourself more manly.” His breakfast being sent to him from
the table of general Washington, which had been done every day of
his confinement, he partook of it as usual, and having shaved and
dressed himself, he placed his hat on the table and cheerfully said
to the guard officers, “I am ready at any moment, gentlemen, to wait
on you.” The fatal hour having arrived, a large detachment of troops
was paraded, and an immense concourse of people assembled; almost
all our general and field officers, excepting his excellency and his
staff, were present on horseback; melancholy and gloom pervaded all
ranks, and the scene was affectingly awful. I was so near during the
solemn march to the fatal spot, as to observe every movement, and to
participate in every emotion which the melancholy scene was
calculated to produce. Major André walked from the stone house, in
which he had been confined, between two of our subaltern officers,
arm-in-arm; the eyes of the immense multitude were fixed on him,
who, rising superior to the fears of death, appeared as if conscious
of the dignified conduct he displayed. He betrayed no want of
fortitude, but retained a complacent smile on his countenance, and
politely bowed to several gentlemen whom he knew, which was
respectfully returned. It was his earnest desire to be shot, as
being the mode of death most conformable to the feelings of a
military man, and he had indulged the hope that his request would be
granted. At the moment therefore, when suddenly he came in view of
the gallows, he involuntarily started backwards, and made a pause.
“Why this emotion, sir,” said an officer by his side. Instantly
recovering his composure, he said, “I am reconciled to my death, but
I detest the mode.” While waiting and standing near the gallows, I
observed some degree of trepidation; placing his foot on a stone,
and rolling it over and choking in his throat as if attempting to
swallow. So soon, however, as he perceived that things were in
readiness, he stepped quickly into the wagon, and at this moment he
appeared to shrink, but instantly elevating his head with firmness,
he said, “It will be but a momentary pang,” and taking from his
pocket, two white handkerchiefs, the provost marshal with one
loosely pinioned his arms, and with the other, the prisoner, after
taking off his hat and stock, bandaged his own eyes with perfect
firmness, which melted the hearts and moistened the cheeks, not only
of his servant but of the throng of spectators. The rope being
appended to the gallows, he slipped the noose over his head, and
adjusted it to his neck, without the assistance of the awkward
executioner. Colonel Scammel now informed him that he had an
opportunity to speak, if he desired it; he raised the handkerchief
from his eyes and said, “I pray you to bear me witness that I meet
my fate like a brave man.” The wagon being now removed from under
him, he was suspended and immediately expired; it proved indeed,
“but a momentary pang.” He was dressed in his royal regimentals and
boots, and his remains in the same dress, were placed in an ordinary
coffin, and interred at the foot of the gallows. Thus died in the
bloom of life, the accomplished major André, the pride of the royal
army, and the valued friend of Sir Henry Clinton.” [Thacher’s
Military Journal, 1780, p. 272, &c.]
Some time after Arnold fled from West Point, and when he had already
signalized himself by the ferocity with which he tore the bosom of his
country by all the horrors of war, an American grenadier was brought
into his presence who had been taken prisoner in a skirmish. Arnold
recognized him as having served under his orders at West Point, and
interrogated him upon the impression his flight had produced upon the
garrison. The bold grenadier answered him with frankness, and did not in
the least disguise the general indignation. “What would they have done,
had they taken me?” “We should have buried your leg wounded before
Quebec with honour, and have hung the rest of your body upon the
gibbet.”
While the different groups upon our deck still execrated the memory of
Arnold, and pitied the unfortunate André, the thunder of cannon a
thousand times repeated by the echoes of Hudson announced our arrival at
West Point. We were rapidly carried on shore in the boats. General
Lafayette was received by major Thayer, commandant of the establishment,
and by generals Brown and Scott, accompanied by their staff. Lafayette
was placed in an open carriage, accompanied by the widow of Colonel
Hamilton, and followed by a long column of ladies who had come with Mrs.
H., and a numerous population which had collected to receive him: they
slowly ascended the road which conducted them to the military academy.
During this march, two pieces of cannon placed on the summit of a rock
far above our heads, kept up an incessant roaring. When we reached the
plain upon which the buildings of the institution stand, we found the
cadets drawn up in line. The general immediately passed them in review,
and they manœuvred before him. After their evolutions were completed,
they performed the honours of the entertainment they had prepared for
him, with the most kind solicitude.
West Point appears to me to be well chosen for a military school. It is
upon a very beautiful plain, elevated upon the right bank of the Hudson,
and crowned by other high mountains, upon the summit of which, the ruins
of old Fort Putnam may still be perceived. Its separation from the large
cities, the silence of the forest, and the aspect of nature at once so
imposing and beautiful, all appear to invite to meditation and study.
The pupils are two hundred in number: vacant places are at the disposal
of the President of the United States. To be admitted, the candidate
must not be younger than fourteen, nor older than twenty-one; must know
how to read, write and cypher, and must sign with his parent or guardian
an engagement to serve during five years, unless dismissed previous to
the expiration of that time. The cadets are taught natural and
experimental philosophy, mathematics, chemistry and mineralogy, drawing,
fortification, strategy, fencing, and the French language. All the
expenses of the institution are paid out of the national treasury. Every
cadet receives a pay of six dollars a month, and two rations a day. They
are formed into companies, and all do duty as privates or sub-officers,
and live in camp during three months of the year in order to learn camp
duty. At the conclusion of their term they are commissioned in the
different corps of the army when vacancies occur; but most of them
return again to civil life. Government rarely refuses them this
privilege when it is asked, because its object is not so much to have a
nursery of soldiers in this establishment, as to form citizens capable
of filling, when necessary, the first offices in the militia service,
which is thus annually enriched by a number of instructed young
officers.
We had the pleasure of finding among the professors, three of our
countrymen, Messrs. Berard, Ducommun and Gimbrede, who took great
pleasure in answering our inquiries, and who appeared to stand high in
the estimation of the officers and pupils of the institution.
At six P. M., we returned to the shore to embark. A great number of our
travelling companions, but particularly the ladies finding it impossible
to remain longer so much crowded together in the James Kent, left us to
go on board another steam-boat which was returning to New York, and we
continued on our journey with the kind and amiable members of the New
York committee appointed to accompany the general.
At 7 o’clock we arrived at Newburgh; we should have arrived there at 3
o’clock, but for our accident upon the oyster bank, and thirty thousand
persons waited on the shore with the greatest impatience for the arrival
of the Nation’s Guest. The tables had been set from the morning. In fact
it was easy to perceive this, for our reception here was more tumultuous
than any we had yet witnessed. But even this fermentation furnished us
with an opportunity to judge of the influence of the magistrates over
the people, who even in moments of excitement never lose that respect
which citizens owe the laws to which they have freely consented. After a
rapid passage by torch light through the streets of Newburgh, in an open
carriage, we stopped at the Orange hotel, where we were to dine with the
principal inhabitants. While we were at table, a report was spread that
general Lafayette was to leave the town immediately; and a vast
concourse of people gathered in front of the hotel, and a thousand
confused voices cried out that it was shameful thus to snatch from the
citizens of Newburgh, the friend they had so long and so ardently
desired; that the darkness which covered his arrival had not allowed any
one to see him; that they should have the chagrin of being unable to
render him the homage with which they had prepared to receive him; and
in short, that they would not let him go until after sun-rise the next
day, in order that he might bestow his benediction upon the children of
Newburgh. To the noise of these clamours soon was added that of the
struggle between the crowd and the guard stationed at the door of the
hotel. During some moments the mayor of the town who was at table with
us, paid but little attention to what was going on in the street, when
he was informed that the disorder might become serious, that the militia
and police officers began to grow fatigued with their resistance, the
mayor rose, took general Lafayette by the hand and preceded by two
torches, went out into a balcony which overlooked the street. At the
sight of Lafayette the shouts and plaudits increased from all quarters,
when the mayor made a sign for silence, which was immediately
established. He then addressed the people:—“Gentlemen! (for in America
the magistrates always speak politely to the people,) do you wish to
distress the Nation’s Guest?” “No! no! no!” “Do you wish that Lafayette
should be deprived of his liberty, in a country indebted to him for its
freedom?” “No! no! no!” “Then listen to what I am about to say, and do
not force me to call upon the law to restore order.” The silence then
became profound. “Your friend is expected at Albany, he is engaged to be
there to-morrow, before evening; he has already been delayed for three
hours by an unexpected accident; if you retain him here until to-morrow,
you will deprive him of the pleasure of visiting all the other towns
which expect him upon his passage, and you will make him break all his
engagements; do you wish to give him this pain?” “No! no! no!” and the
air rung with shouts and huzzas. Lafayette then addressed a few words of
thanks to the crowd, which were received with the greatest enthusiasm.
The people, however, became silent, but still remained in the street
though without disturbing the door of the hotel. When Lafayette came
down, some citizens advanced and said it depended upon him entirely to
console the inhabitants of Newburgh, and it would not cost him more than
the delay of a quarter of an hour—“our wives and children are collected
close by in a hall which was prepared for your reception; come for an
instant that they may see you, and we shall all be happy.” It was
impossible to resist so touching an appeal. We entered this hall filled
with ladies, and girls dressed for a ball; they had already ceased to
hope that they should see Lafayette, and his presence caused them an
agreeable surprise. In the fulness of their joy they all crowded near
him, and showered over him the wreathes and flowers with which they were
adorned. In leaving this hall we found the men all standing in a double
row along the way which led to the shore, and the general could not
reach the steam-boat without receiving the most endearing expressions of
the esteem of these excellent people, who in spite of his assurances,
still feared that they had caused him inconvenience. He bade farewell to
the authorities of Newburgh on board of the boat, and at a signal given
by our captain, we recommenced our voyage in spite of the darkness.
The rising sun found us in the vicinity of Poughkeepsie, where it was
impossible for the general to refuse landing. The wharves and shore were
crowded with soldiers, citizens, and even a great number of ladies, who
had all night waited for the arrival of Lafayette.
Poughkeepsie like all the towns bordering upon the Hudson is both
manufacturing and commercial; the population therefore is rapidly
increasing. In 1820 it was 3400 souls, at present it amounts to nearly
5000.
It was at the dwelling of George Clinton in Poughkeepsie, that
Washington, Hamilton, Chancellor Livingston and Mr. Jay, used to meet to
discuss the constitution adopted by the United States. The general was
eloquently reminded of this circumstance by colonel Livingston, who was
appointed to address him in the name of his fellow citizens.
In continuing our voyage we visited the family of the ancient governor
Lewis, who reside in a beautiful dwelling on the right side of the
river, and at four o’clock we arrived at Clermont, where we landed in
front of the elegant residence of Mr. Robert Livingston, the former
residence of chancellor Livingston. The entertainments prepared for us
by the citizens of the environs, and the Livingston family, detained us
till the next morning.
Scarcely had we left Clermont when we came in sight of the beautiful
Catskill mountain, which arising at some miles from the river, finely
terminates the horizon by its beautiful brown mass which is
amphitheatrically developed, in the centre of which shows forth the
white house of the pine garden situated 250 feet above the level of the
Hudson. This house is an object of curiosity to the traveller, and a
place of promenade for the neighbouring inhabitants.
The masses of soldiers and citizens which covered a long pier projecting
into the river, by their acclamations informed general Lafayette that
the inhabitants of Catskill also expected a visit from the national
guest. We remained a few minutes only with this population, during which
the general had the satisfaction of conversing with some of his former
revolutionary companions, among whom he recognized one named FOSTER, who
had been particularly attached to his service, when he was wounded at
the battle of Brandywine.
To land at the little town of Hudson, we had to cross the river somewhat
obliquely; at the port, which is very commercial, we were received by
the authorities and people, at the head of whom was presented a
detachment of about 80 revolutionary soldiers. One of them advanced from
the ranks and showed him a sword he had received from Lafayette at Rhode
Island. “After my death it will change owners,” said he, “but its
destination shall never be changed, it shall always serve in defence of
liberty.”
Triumphal arches had been erected, a public entertainment prepared, and
the ladies were ready for dancing, but we had to forego all these
festivities, in order to arrive at Albany the same day, where the
general was expected with impatience. The inhabitants of Hudson
perfectly comprehended his situation, and had the kindness to detain him
but for a very short time.
The wealth of Hudson is daily increased by its commerce and
manufactures. The population which in 1820 was not quite 3000 souls, at
present amounts to 5000. The town is regular and well built; it arises
in an amphitheatre about an hundred feet above the level of the river.
The largest commercial vessels may lie at its wharves. Its environs are
strongly marked with an agreeable aspect, and are well cultivated.
Hudson was founded in 1784, and still contains many descendants of the
Hollanders who came over in 1636.
In spite of the power of our steam engine, which enabled us to ascend
the river at the rate of six miles an hour, it was five o’clock P. M.
before we reached Overslaugh a small town situated upon the left bank of
the river, a short distance from Albany. Here we were obliged to suspend
our voyage, as the steam-boat drew too much water. We landed, and were
immediately placed in an elegant barouche surrounded by an escort of
dragoons, commanded by general Van Rensellaer and colonel Cooper, and in
a few minutes we arrived at Greenbush, another village, in the centre of
which we found a triumphal arch, beneath which some refreshments were
presented, while the members of the corporation addressed the general,
who answered them with that facility and appropriateness, which at least
four or five times a day, caused the surprise and admiration of those
who heard him.
It was not until night that we arrived in front of Albany, upon the
banks of the river, which it was necessary we should cross to enter the
city, which stands upon the right bank. A large _team-boat_ called
“Horses Back,” received both our carriages at the same time, drawn by
four horses each, about thirty of the light-horsemen of the escort, and
more than a hundred foot passengers, and bore us quickly to the other
shore, which rung with the acclamations of the multitude, and the
incessant thunder of artillery. The situation in which we were placed
was grand and majestic; the obscurity of the night rendered it still
more imposing; but it was not without its dangers. Every discharge of
cannon, by its report and sudden light, startled the mettled horses
which surrounded us, and which had no other barrier before them than a
slight chain, that could not have hindered them from leaping into the
river, if they had not been held by powerful men. George Lafayette’s
filial solicitude for his father, caused him to quit the carriage, and
take upon himself the securing of the horses which drew the general. At
the moment of our landing the multitude redoubled their cries of joy;
the escort and carriages sprung rapidly on shore, amidst so thick a
crowd, that it is difficult to conceive how so many people, whom the
enthusiasm of gratitude had urged upon the very wheels of Lafayette’s
carriage, could escape uninjured. At the entrance of the suburb a
procession was formed in order; a band of musicians led the march, and
we went to the capitol through the principal streets, all of which were
rendered light by innumerable illuminations, and high pyramids of
blazing wood. At the entrance of the street leading to the capitol, was
an arch of triumph, upon which was perched a large living eagle, which
flapped its wings as the general passed, as if to render him homage.
We entered the senate chamber of the capitol. The galleries were filled
with a great number of ladies. The municipality were assembled there.
The general was received and addressed by the mayor, who eloquently
expressed the gratitude of the United States, and especially of the city
of Albany, “those who have shared with you the toils of our revolution,
and who still live,” said he, “hail you as a friend and brother. The
generation which has arisen since you quitted these shores, is animated
with the same sentiments, and those which shall be born in future ages,
will celebrate in you the benefactor of America, the hero of liberty. In
each of the hearts which beat around you, you hold the place of
friendship, and your eulogy is in all mouths.”
In his reply Lafayette could not avoid expressing his astonishment at
the numerous changes which had taken place in the aspect of every thing
at present offered to his view. “It is not a half century, since the
town, then ancient, it is true, but still very small, served me for head
quarters, upon the frontier of a vast wilderness. I received here, as
commandant of the northern departments, the renunciation of the royal
power and the acknowledgement of the more legitimate sovereignty of the
people of the United States. At present I find Albany a rich and
powerful city, the central seat of government of the state of New York,
and the surrounding wilds changed into fertile and well cultivated
plains. The present generation is already distinguished by two glorious
wars, and still more by its sincere attachment to the institutions whose
excellence assures it an incontestible superiority over the haughty
power, which wished to arrogate over it the right of control.”
From the senate chamber we went to the apartments of governor Yates,
who, surrounded by his staff, received the general with great cordiality
and addressed him in the name of the state.
In leaving the governor, the general was conducted to the principal
balcony of the capitol to be presented to the assembled people. At the
moment he advanced between the two central columns of the balcony, an
eagle descended and placed a crown of laurels and evergreens upon his
head. This was loudly applauded by the numerous spectators.
Before going to the hotel, which had been prepared for our reception,
the general wished to visit one of his old companions in arms, Mr.
Matthew Gregory, who, in the assault at Yorktown, was one of the first
to mount the trenches, with him and Hamilton. We found there a numerous
company, composed of judges of the supreme court, the bar and principal
officers of the state.
This day of emotions and fatigues, under which a man less robust than
Lafayette must have sunk, was terminated by a supper in which toasts
were drank to the health of the “Nation’s Guest,” and “to the liberty
and sovereignty of the people,” and by a brilliant ball, which we left
at midnight in order to seek a little rest.
Albany was founded in 1612, by a colony from Holland, and next to
Jamestown in Virginia, is the most ancient settlement in the United
States. Situated on the right bank of the Hudson, 150 miles from New
York, this city does not present a pleasing aspect: the ground is every
where unequal: the streets, it is true, are wide and regular, but the
architecture of the houses is in bad taste and reminds one strongly of
the old towns in Germany. With the exception of the capitol there is no
building which has a monumental aspect; this building produces a very
good effect, being situated upon an eminence which terminates a fine
street called State street. This edifice which serves for the senate,
house of representatives, the courts of justice, the society of arts, of
agriculture, and also contains the library, is constructed of granite
from the banks of the Hudson, and the columns, as well as all the
exterior ornaments are in fine white marble from the quarries of
Massachusetts. The principal façade is of the Ionic order. Most of the
halls are decorated and furnished with a luxury which one at first
admires, but cannot in the end avoid blaming, when it is known that it
has brought the corporation into debts which necessarily fall upon the
people. The entire expense of the building amounted to 120,000 dollars,
of which at least 34,000 have been paid by the city.
The town house, academy, Lancastrian school, arsenal, prison, and some
other buildings of public utility are properly and commodiously built of
brick.
The city is governed by a corporation composed of a mayor, recorder, and
ten aldermen, and ten assistant aldermen, all appointed by the people.
To simplify the administration and facilitate the superintendence of the
police, it is divided into five sections or wards. The watchmen are
especially charged to guard against the dangers of fire, and an
excellent organization of firemen, secure prompt assistance in cases of
conflagration. These precautions are rendered particularly necessary by
the presence of numerous magazines of oil and spirits, imprudently
established in the heart of the city.
The police regulations are enforced with a rigidity which allows no
class of citizens to think of infringing them with impunity. Among a
multitude of examples related to me, the following is very remarkable.
It is expressly forbidden to gallop through the streets. A short time
since, the mayor was at his country seat, not far from the city.
Suddenly the ringing of bells and even the sight of the flames informed
him that a fire had broken out; he mounted his horse and set out for
town, through which he gallopped to the fire; alighted, and placed
himself at the head of the firemen. In a few instants his example and
prudent advice, contributed to remove the danger, and he quietly
returned to his dwelling. The next morning he received a summons to
appear before a justice of the peace, who fined him for breaking the
ordinance which forbids gallopping through the streets. The mayor did
not in any way attempt to justify his fault by the motive that had
caused him to commit it, and submitted without murmuring to the award,
which he acknowleged to be just. This submission to the law was a good
example, and on going out of the magistrate’s office, he was met by a
numerous deputation of citizens, who presented him with the thanks of
the public for the eminent services he had rendered the preceding
evening, in courageously exposing himself to save the property of his
fellow citizens.
The annual expenses of the city amount to about 45,000 dollars; its
revenues in 1824 were valued at 49,000, but its debt amounted to more
than two hundred and fifty thousand dollars. This debt which necessarily
depreciates the value of property situated in Albany, was incurred by
the prodigality of former administrations. It is thought that it will
speedily be extinguished by a sinking fund of a hundred thousand
dollars, and especially by the resources which are daily presented by
the constantly increasing prosperity of commerce.
As a commercial place, Albany is one of the most considerable cities in
the union. Ever since its foundation it has been the place of deposit
for all the western produce; at present the facility of communication
with lake Erie by means of the Grand canal gives a still greater
increase to its commercial preponderance.
About twenty-four steam-boats ply incessantly between Albany and New
York, and the number of sloops that trade between the two cities is very
considerable.
In 1820 the population of Albany was 12,630 souls; it is at present
16,000.
On the morning of the 18th September, at 8 A.M. De Witt Clinton with a
large number of citizens visited general Lafayette’s apartments, to
present him in the name of the literary and philosophical society of New
York with a diploma, constituting him a member of that society. On this
occasion Mr. Clinton pronounced an elegant discourse which affected the
general more, as coming from an orator who was the son and nephew of two
distinguished men, with whom he had been intimately connected during the
war of Independence. During this short ceremony a numerous procession
was formed in front of our hotel, and at nine o’clock we embarked amidst
the thundering of cannon, upon the canal which leads to Troy. Five
handsome canal boats had been prepared for our voyage. The first carried
a band of musicians; general Lafayette was in the second, with governor
Yates, the ex-governors Lewis and Clinton, the mayor and city council,
and some of the principal citizens of Albany. In the three last followed
the escort commanded by major Coles, composed of an artillery company
and three companies of infantry. We stopped a few minutes on the way to
visit the Gibbonsville arsenal, belonging to the United States. This
arsenal, one of the most considerable and best provided in the union,
was founded in 1813, under the direction of colonel Bumford of the
artillery, actually attached to the department of war, and completed by
major Dalliba of the same corps, who has introduced into it a system of
administration remarkable for its order and economy. At his entrance
into the court of the arsenal the general was received by the officers
of the post, and saluted by the discharge of three pieces of cannon
taken at York-town. We remarked among the pieces of artillery, some
French pieces presented by France to the United States during the
revolutionary war; and all the camp equipage taken with general Burgoyne
at Saratoga. We visited all the armouries, which are kept with
remarkable care and elegance. We found there more than 30,000 muskets
made after the best European models, as well as a large number of well
made pistols and sabres. The powder magazine is also well provided.
Before mid-day we arrived at a point where the canal communicates with
the Hudson opposite to Troy. At the sight of this town, which at present
contains 8000 inhabitants, and which in commercial importance, is next
to Albany in the state of New York, general Lafayette was struck with
astonishment. “What!” cried he, “this town has arisen as by
enchantment!” “No,” answered some one near him, “but it has been created
and peopled in a few years, by industry protected by liberty.” The
general then informed us that when in 1778, he crossed the Hudson at the
same point, with a part of the army he commanded, there was then but two
or three little cabins on the spot, in one of which, with some
difficulty, he procured a cup of milk, and some corn bread. While he was
giving us these interesting details our boat descended to the river,
where a dozen decorated boats towed us across to Troy.
Landing in the midst of the numerous population which crowded the shore,
the general was received by a committee appointed to express to him the
sentiments of gratitude and attachment of the citizens. “Your
indefatigable devotion to the cause of civil and religious liberty,”
said the speaker, “has rendered your name illustrious wherever the
rights of man are respected and honoured. The liberation of this country
was an act worthy of the patriots by whose councils and arms it was
consummated. Their toils, privations and sacrifices, and still more
particularly your generous efforts, have impressed the hearts of the
citizens of these states with a profound sentiment of gratitude which is
increased daily by the development of an unexampled prosperity, and the
benefits of the wisest institutions. May you long enjoy among us the
fruits of your glorious labours. These fruits you may gather in the form
of our government which guarantees to us, order and liberty; in our
legal system which at the same time secures public peace and private
rights; in our public schools, which bestows upon the poor as well as
the rich, the benefits of a good education, in the change of our vast
deserts into fertile fields; in the origin, increase, and multiplication
of our cities, towns, and villages; in the creation of numerous means of
communication to facilitate our commercial relations; in the variety and
harmony of our different religious sects; finally you will gather the
fruits of your labours and of those of our revolutionary patriots, in
the spirit of enterprise and industry of a frugal people, content with
their condition, obedient to the laws, at peace with themselves and the
whole world, and lifting their grateful voices first towards God, and
then to their benefactors, at the head of which your virtues and
generous services place you.”
Unanimous applause, and the cry a thousand times repeated, of “Welcome!
Welcome! Lafayette,” followed this speech, and the answer of Lafayette.
He was immediately after raised in the arms of the people and placed in
an open carriage, accompanied by colonel Lane, who fought with him at
Brandywine, Monmouth, and York-Town. The procession, preceded by the
Masonic Lodge, and followed by numerous corps of soldiers, passed
through the streets of the town, amid the shouts of joy of a free and
grateful people. While we were at breakfast in the house, from the
balcony of which we had seen the troops of the town and adjacent country
defile before us, the general received a message from the ladies of
Troy, who invited him to visit the young ladies’ boarding school, where
they were collected to receive him. He accepted the invitation with
eagerness. The avenues to this establishment, directed by Mrs. Willard,
were decorated with green branches and flowers, and terminated near the
house in a triumphal arch, under which he was received by a committee of
five ladies, headed by Mrs. Pawling, who in a few words elegantly
expressed the patriotic sentiments of the ladies of Troy, and their
tender gratitude to the illustrious benefactor of their beloved country.
He was conducted by this committee into the interior of the
establishment, where no other man went with him, and some moments after,
we heard the pure and angelic voices of the young girls repeating in
chorus, “To visit us thou hast left thy beloved family in a distant
land, but be not afflicted; art thou not here in thy country? Behold how
many of the daughters of Columbia are proud and happy to salute thee by
the tender name of father.”
The general soon returned from the house; his features exhibiting
profound emotion, and his eyes swimming in tears. He slowly descended
the steps surrounded and supported by the principal ladies of the
institution. Two hundred young girls followed him, clothed in white,
harmoniously raising to heaven their grateful voices. They accompanied
him to the outer gate where they took a tender leave of him, in the
presence of several thousand spectators, whom this scene kept plunged in
reverential silence.
General Lafayette was unwilling to quit Troy without paying some private
visits to different persons of his intimate acquaintance, and
particularly to Mrs. Taylor, with whose family he was connected during
the revolution. Mrs. Taylor is a young lady much distinguished by her
talents, and the information which she acquired at the institution we
had just visited. We found at her house a very pretty cabinet of
mineralogy, remarkable for its richness and order. She presented to the
general as _a remembrance of Troy_, a beautiful herbarium containing
more than two hundred of the most remarkable plants of the vicinity,
collected, arranged and described by herself.
After these visits, we slowly left the town, in the midst of the
population covering the road by which we had to reach the Hudson. Every
one pushed towards the carriage and wished to shake hands with
Lafayette. Fathers raised their children above the crowd that they might
get a better view of him, and ask his benediction. At the moment we
crossed the river, three cheers and a salute of artillery expressed the
farewell and last wishes of this rich and happy city.
The town of Troy is situated upon the left bank of the Hudson, six miles
from Albany, a little above tide water, and in a somewhat extensive and
very fertile plain of alluvial formation. The river at this place is
still more than 800 feet wide. Sixty sloops belonging to the inhabitants
of this town, are employed in commerce, which does not prevent other
vessels from finding occupation. The exportations of grain especially
are very considerable.
Upon all the water courses falling into the river, and upon the river
itself, are a great number of furnaces in full activity, rolling,
slitting, and casting iron, and lead. The most considerable of these
establishments is that of Adamsville. The principal building which
contains the nail factory, has twenty-four machines for cutting and
heading nails; they are all put in motion by an enormous wheel, turned
by the force of the stream. This establishment manufactures a thousand
tons of iron annually.
About two miles from Adamsville is a fine cotton manufactory, which has
constantly 1700 spindles in action, moved by thirty machines turned by
water. Near at hand is a bleaching ground for cotton cloths, where the
bleaching is done by a chemical process for one or two cents a yard.
Tanneries, potteries, paper making, soap making, and lumber yards
surround this city on all sides, which in 1786 did not exist; which in
1801 was nothing but a small village; did not acquire the distinction of
city until 1816, and in 1820 was ravaged by a fire, the damages of which
amounted to more than 360,000 dollars! In the sixty days following this
catastrophe, the insurance company faithfully fulfilled its engagements,
amounting to 110,000 dollars; and in a short time the burnt buildings
were replaced by others more elegantly, more commodiously, and durably
constructed. At present the city daily increases according to a regular
plan; all the streets are large, right-lined, and furnished with fine
pavements.
The inhabitants of Troy are not less remarkable for their love for
letters and science, than for their activity and intelligent industry.
They have in the city three periodical journals, four printing-offices,
five considerable libraries, and a great number of public schools.
Troy also possesses many other sources of happiness and prosperity,
concerning which out short stay in this city prevented me from obtaining
positive information. It appears that the canal works for facilitating
commerce are worthy of particular attention. But perhaps I shall have an
opportunity of returning to this subject, as we expect to visit the
greater part of the canals in the state of New York.
I remarked, with pleasure that the black population, which is not very
numerous, (about 300) freely united their wishes for the Nation’s Guest,
with the white people. At present there are scarcely thirty slaves in
the city; from 1827 liberty will no longer have to blush in the presence
of coloured men!
In returning to Albany, whither we went back by land, we visited
governor Yates and De Witt Clinton, who was also governor of the state
in 1817 and 1818. The latter, who has already passed through a long and
brilliant political career, is destined, unless I am deceived, to play
an important part in the affairs of his country. He has already
successively been secretary to his uncle George Clinton, member of the
New York legislature; senator of the United States; thrice mayor of New
York; member of the committee of internal navigation; president of the
canal board; lieutenant governor, and then governor of the state; many
benevolent institutions owe their existence to him; he is member of
almost all the scientific societies, and I shall not be surprised to
hear his name one day, among the candidates for the presidency of the
United States. He is at present 55 years old. It is difficult to find a
man of more imposing figure, or of a nobler countenance. Every one
agrees that his ruling passion is to augment the good of his fellow
creatures. These are his titles of recommendation to a nation that knows
well how to reward those who devote themselves to her service.[15]
It was very late when we left Albany: we came out of the city as we
entered it by the light of bonfires, and went on board the steam-boat
Kent at the place where we first landed. A few moments after we began to
redescend the Hudson for New York, where we arrived at day-break on
Monday, after a navigation of thirty-six hours, only interrupted by the
short visits we made to Newburg, West Point, &c.