Journey from Boston to Portsmouth: sojourn at Portsmouth: history,
constitution and statistics of New Hampshire: journey from
Portsmouth to New York: description of Long Island.
The state of New Hampshire having sent a deputation to invite general
Lafayette to visit the navy yard at Portsmouth, we set out for that
place on the 31st of August, by the way of Lexington, Concord, Salem,
Marblehead and Newburyport. We delayed but a few moments at Lexington,
but we left it deeply impressed by the touching scenes we there
witnessed, and the historical recollection it awakens. We recollected
that it was at this place in 1775, a few farmers were slaughtered by an
English battalion; and upon the same spot Lafayette was welcomed by a
free and happy population assembled to greet him. We advanced through
two handsome lines of militia troops to the base of the pyramid which
indicates the place where the first martyrs of liberty fell, and now
repose. There two old men related to us this first scene of the grand
revolutionary tragedy, in which they were actors; and this circumstance
lent a powerful charm to their recital, which captivated our attention.
They were delighted to recall the smallest particulars of this action,
repeated with heated indignation the insulting and menacing words of the
fierce Pitcairn, when he summoned them to surrender, and the smile of
pity and contempt curled their lips when they told how 800 Englishmen
had fired upon sixty farmers: they then named with tenderness those of
their companions and friends who fell by their sides, turning their eyes
filled with tears upon the ground, while our own involuntarily rested
upon the last asylum of these hero citizens, paying them a tribute of
gratitude and admiration. After some moments of solemn silence, one of
the two old men exclaimed, “we still weep for our brethren, but we do
not deplore them, they died for their country and liberty!” At the words
_country_ and _liberty_, the crowd, deeply affected, responded by shouts
of “long live Lafayette,” and during a long time it was difficult to
moderate this burst of public gratitude. All the militia of the district
were assembled at Lexington; they defiled before the pyramid and
Lafayette, lowering before these two monuments of their revolution their
standards, upon which the murder of their ancestors was delineated, by
which hatred of despotism is perpetuated among these youthful
soldier-citizens.
Just as we were about to depart from the pyramid to re-enter our
carriages, a young man presented himself, having in his hands a long
rudely shaped and rusty musket; he presented it to Lafayette with a
solemnity which induced us to suppose that the weapon by some peculiar
circumstance had acquired a right to the veneration of the bearer. In
fact, we learned that this was the musket from which the first fire was
returned to the English, upon the field of Lexington. “My father bore it
on the 19th of April, 1775,” said the young man; “in his hands it
commenced the work that Washington and you so gloriously achieved; I am
happy to make it known to you.” Lafayette examined it with pleasure; all
of us desired to touch it; in returning it to him, the general advised
him to have inscribed on the stock the date of April 19th, and the name
of the brave citizen who bore it, and then to keep it in a box for the
purpose of securing it from the ravages of time. He was moved by this
advice and promised to follow it.
Although Concord is but a short distance from Lexington, we were
nevertheless obliged to stop there. The inhabitants of the vicinity were
collected in the public square, where a tent of flowers and verdure had
been erected, under which a troop of blooming and beautiful girls
offered refreshments to the Nation’s Guest, who was forced to take a
seat at the centre of an elegantly prepared table, around which none but
ladies were admitted. Young girls crowned with flowers moved around the
table of which they did the honours with touching grace and ease; but it
was especially to Lafayette that all their attention was directed, and
upon him their tenderest care was concentrated. All was smiling, all was
gracious in the picture of happiness and joy before us; but at the same
instant we were struck by a singular contrast. In front of the tent, at
the other extremity of the public square, we perceived upon a hillock
which terminated it, a confused collection of funeral monuments. We
recognized the place consecrated to the dead. Of all these monuments,
the greater number were already blackened by time; some were still of a
glaring whiteness; near one of the latter was placed a female and two
children clad in black, whose sorrowing attitudes seemed to say that
festival days are not days of repose for death; but not one of the gay
party appeared to regard this; all were too happy to remark the
narrowness of the space by which they were separated from the spot where
all sink into oblivion.
At Marblehead I was aroused from the profound reverie into which the
circumstances at Concord had plunged me, by the sound of cannon, and the
shouts of the people, who rushed to meet Lafayette. Brilliant
preparations had been made to receive him, although it was known that he
could only stop to breakfast. In ascending Washington Hill, we were met
by the pupils of eleven public and twenty private schools, conducted by
their teachers and the president of the board of instruction. There were
nine hundred children of both sexes. A deputation, formed by a
representative from each class, approached the carriage, and presented
an address to Lafayette, in which the children expressed to him their
gratitude for the services he had rendered their parents. Salem is only
14 miles from Boston, and yet we did not reach there until afternoon,
because at almost every step Lafayette was obliged to stop to receive
testimonials of regard from all we met upon the road. At the entrance of
the city, we were received by the magistrates, and by a numerous
cavalcade of citizens; several military corps were drawn up on each side
of the way, and his entry was announced by salutes of artillery and the
chiming of the bells. In spite of the rain, which fell in torrents, the
streets were entirely filled with the crowds that rushed towards him,
and uttered their benedictions. We passed through the town on foot, in
order to go under a great number of triumphal arches decorated with
emblems and inscriptions. Upon one was “Honour to Lafayette! honour to
him who fought and shed his blood for the peace and happiness we enjoy:”
upon another, “Lafayette, friend and defender of liberty, welcome to the
land of your adoption;” on another, “In the day of our adversity, thou
didst aid us, in the days of our prosperity, we recall thy services with
gratitude.” The dining-hall and the dinner itself, had been decorated
and prepared by the hands of a great number of ladies. In front of
Lafayette’s seat, amid garlands of flowers, was the following
inscription: “Lafayette in America—Where can one better be than in the
bosom of his family?”
Ancient companions in arms, placed at his sides, claimed the privilege
of serving him, reminding him gaily, that they acquired this right at
Yorktown, where he had not refused their services. The dinner ended with
a great number of toasts. One was drank to “France, the friend of
liberty in America; may she never become the friend of oppression in
Europe.” Immediately after, we quitted Salem to pass the night at
Newburyport. Although the weather continued to be disagreeable, the
general could not dissuade the Salem citizens from escorting him; they
galloped along side of his carriage, sword in hand, for nearly nine
miles, at the risk of falling twenty times, so very bad were the roads.
Notwithstanding all our diligence, it was late at night when we arrived
at Newburyport. The brilliance of the illuminations, and the fires
lighted in appropriate places in the street, the uninterrupted sounds of
cannon, bells, the shouts of people, and the sight of armed troops
advancing rapidly to the sound of the drum, might have led one to
suppose we were entering a town taken by storm, and delivered to the
flames, if the words _Liberty_, _Country_, WASHINGTON, Lafayette, which
incessantly fell upon our ears, had not reminded us that we were present
at a truly national and popular festival. Although the night was so far
advanced, the general was obliged to devote a considerable time to the
reception of the citizens who pressed forward in crowds to greet him. We
stopped at Tracy’s inn, which had been prepared for our reception.
General Washington staid there in 1789. The chamber he used was
afterwards preserved with the greatest care; the furniture had not been
changed, and Lafayette had the pleasure of resting in the same bed,
where, thirty-five years ago, his father and his friend had reposed.
From the joy which appeared to sparkle in the eyes of our host, it was
easy to divine the sentiments that animated him, and how difficult it
would be to induce him to part with the furniture which had served
Washington and Lafayette.
We left Newburyport early in the morning, and arrived about mid-day at
Portsmouth. Numerous corps of infantry, and almost the whole population,
headed by their magistrates, came out of the city to meet Lafayette. A
thousand children from various schools were ranged in a double row along
the road, and though these poor children had no other covering but
wreaths of flowers, and the rain was falling abundantly, none would
relinquish their posts. The procession formed to accompany the general’s
entry into the town, was more than two miles long. After it had passed
through the principal streets, we stopped in Congress street, at
Franklin Hall. There the president of the town council pronounced on
behalf of the assembled citizens, an address.
The general was then presented to the governor of New Hampshire, Mr.
Morill, who had purposely come from his residence, to receive him, after
his introduction to the governor, he was surrounded by his ancient
companions in arms, among whom he recognized general Smith, who had
served three years under him as a captain of light infantry. While they
were felicitating each other on their meeting, they were interrupted by
another old revolutionary soldier, who with tears in his eyes recounted
aloud the great number of services rendered to him during the war, by
the _Marquis_; Lafayette with much difficulty interrupted his recital
which embarrassed him exceedingly, but which vividly excited the
interest of the spectators.
In going to our lodgings, which were prepared in the house of the late
governor Langdon, we met some Indians in the street; these were the
first I had seen, and excited my curiosity very much; some members of
the committee caused a dozen of these savages from the forests of Canada
to visit us at our lodgings. I learned that they came from beyond the
great lakes to exchange peltries for toys and liquor. I confess that I
found nothing in them which corresponded with my ideas of these children
of nature.[9] Their dresses had no other character than that of misery;
crosses and chaplets had taken the place of their beautiful head-dresses
of plumes, their furs and their arms; their drunken visages had nothing
of that noble expression which is said so particularly to distinguish
the savage man: at first their manners appeared affectionate, but it was
soon evident that they were only servile or interested. They talked of
beads and confession, as their fathers, no doubt did of sorcerers and
manitoes. In a word it appeared to me that these poor wretches had only
changed superstitions, and that civilization had brought them its vices
without any of its benefits. In fact I was assured that the majority of
them had become idle, drunken thieves, without being in the least degree
improved in knowledge. An old man who spoke a little French, appeared to
be their chief, he told us they lived in Canada. When asked if they were
happy in the vicinity of the English, he replied that they loved the
French very much; and immediately he and his companions shook hands very
cordially with us. They had with them several of their wives, some of
whom were suckling their children; they also appeared very miserable,
and by no means pretty.
During our conversation with the civilized Indians a new procession was
formed to conduct Lafayette to the navy yard; he went thither a few
moments afterwards, but neither his son nor myself could accompany him,
as we were desirous of profiting by a sure and prompt opportunity of
writing to our friends in France. We regretted however that we missed
the chance of seeing the navy yard which is said to be very fine and of
considerable extent. The remainder of the day was occupied by a public
dinner at which all the public officers and Mr. Salazar, chargé des
affaires for the republic of Columbia were present. After dinner we went
to a ball, where more than four hundred ladies were introduced to
Lafayette; we left the ball at midnight to take our carriages for
Boston, where our travelling companions from New York awaited us. Before
resuming the account of our progress, I will devote a few pages to the
history, constitution, and present condition of the state of New
Hampshire, of which Portsmouth is the most considerable town, both for
its population, which exceed seven thousand souls, and its commerce
which is very extensive.
The state of New Hampshire is situated between the 42° 42′, and the 45°
14′ N. Lat. and between the 4° 29′ and the 6° 10′ of east longitude,
from Washington; its surface contains 9280 square miles; its form is
that of a trapezium, having its base to the south. On the north it is
bounded by Lower Canada; south by Massachusetts; east by Maine and the
ocean; and west by the Connecticut river which separates it from
Vermont. The coast of New Hampshire is about eighteen miles in extent,
is generally sandy and slightly indented. In the interior we find very
high lands, amongst which the white hills or mountains are the highest.
The most considerable collection of water are the lakes Umbagog and
Winnipiseogee, and the lakes Connecticut, Piscataqua and Merimac. The
soil of New Hampshire is of primitive formation and generally fertile;
however the most productive are on the borders of the streams, which
deposit a rich alluvion by their inundations. On the banks of the sea an
abundance of salt hay is cured which is found to be very acceptable to
the cattle. The most abundant mines are those of iron in the district of
Franconia and at Enfield. A small quantity of native silver in threads
is found in the western mountains, but it is not worth the expense of
procuring it. Plumbago is found in considerable abundance in Sutton
county district, and about Monadnock mountain.
The heats of summer are short but excessive; as to the cold it must be
very severe, since lake Winnipiseogee which is twenty-four miles in
length, and in some places twelve miles wide, is frozen for three months
in the year, so hard as to bear heavy wagons. The climate is, however,
very salubrious, and examples of longevity are not uncommon; individuals
are frequently known to live over an hundred years.
New Hampshire was discovered in 1614 by captain Smith, and the first
settlements were made by fishermen and planters on the river Piscataqua,
in 1623. These establishments were placed under the government of
Massachusetts in 1692. In 1787 the first constitution of New Hampshire
was framed, and the limits determined between it and Massachusetts. In
1765 the people rejected the stamp act with energy, and afterwards
engaged in the revolutionary war, which they supported with vigour and
perseverance to the end. The state of New Hampshire was the ninth that
voted for the adoption of the new federal constitution of the United
States; it was carried in the legislature by a majority of eleven, the
number of members being 300. This circumstance decided in favour of the
establishment of the federal government. The new constitution was
adopted in 1792; it was preceded by a declaration of rights and
recognised three powers, the _legislative_, _executive_, and
_judiciary_.
The legislative power is vested in the senate and a house of
representatives, which compose the general assembly, and each branch
exercises a negative over the other. Bills relative to monies originate
in the house of representatives, but it may be amended in the senate
which directs the expenditures.
The senate is composed of thirteen, elected annually by taxable
citizens. A candidate must 1st, be thirty years old; 2d, must own a
freehold in the state worth £200—3d, he must have resided in the state
seven years previous to the election, and be a resident of the county by
which he is elected.
The house of representatives is composed of members from the different
towns, the number of which is proportioned to the population in the
ratio of one representative for every 150 taxable inhabitants, of 20
years old at least, and of two for every 450, so that it requires 300
additional taxable inhabitants for every new member.
The election is made by ballot, and no one is eligible unless he own in
the county a freehold, whereof he is seized in his own right, of the
value of £500. It is necessary also that he reside in the district at
the time of his election, and have resided two years within the state.
Every male citizen of 20 years old, except paupers and persons exempt
from taxes at their own request, have the right of voting for senators
and representatives. The executive power is confided to the governor and
five councillors.
The governor is chosen annually by vote of all the taxable citizens; and
if two candidates have an equal number of votes, the choice is decided
by the joint ballot of both houses of assembly. A candidate for the
governorship must be thirty years old, be an inhabitant of the state for
seven years preceding the election, have an estate of the value of five
hundred pounds, one half of which to consist of a freehold in his own
right, in the state. The governor is commander in chief of the forces by
land and sea, with the advice and consent of the council of state, which
he assembles at will. He appoints the attorney and solicitor general,
and the other officers of justice. He has the right of pardoning
criminals, except such as are convicted before the senate, by
impeachment of the house. He signs all the commissions which are
moreover countersigned by his secretary.
The councillors are also elected by all the taxable citizens of 20 years
old, and the same requisites are demanded of them as of the governor,
with this difference however, that at least three hundred pounds of
their property must be in freehold.
The secretary, treasurer, and commissary general are chosen by ballot by
the senators and representatives.
The treasurer of the county and the town clerk are appointed by the
inhabitants of each county.
The members of congress are chosen by the inhabitants assembled in town
meetings, and their votes are sent to the secretary, who opens them
before the general court. It is in the same way that candidates for the
presidency and vice-presidency are chosen. The two senators in congress
are elected by the general courts.
The judiciary court is composed of a superior court of four judges who
annually make two circuits through the counties; an inferior court, with
the same number of judges in each county, who sit four times a year; a
general court of sessions of justices of the peace, who sit at the same
time; a court of probates, formed of a single judge who sits every month
in each county; and justices of the peace.
The judges are appointed by the governor and council, and retain their
places until they are 70 years old. They are liable to impeachment for
misbehaviour in office.
The jury composed of twelve freeholders whose verdict decides the
judgment in civil and criminal suits, is selected by the municipal
council from among persons worth fifty pounds. The names of one third of
the members are placed in one box; and the names of the two-thirds in
another. The jurors for the superior court are drawn from the first box,
and those for the inferior court from the second, by the town clerk in
the public assembly.
The general court is authorized to reform the judiciary system when it
is deemed convenient or necessary to the public service; to give to the
justices of the peace jurisdiction in civil causes, when real estate is
not concerned and the damages do not exceed four pounds, with the right
of appeal to another court and the trial by jury.
The chief justice receives 1500 dollars per annum; each of the other
judges receives 1200.
The sheriffs like the judges are ineligible after they have attained to
seventy years, nor can they act or receive fees as lawyers or counsel,
while they are in office.
All the civil and military officers take the following oath before
entering upon office.
“I solemnly swear that I will bear faith and true allegiance to the
state of New Hampshire, and will defend the constitution thereof, and I
will faithfully and impartially discharge and perform the duties
incumbent on me as governor, secretary, &c. &c. to the best of my
abilities, agreeably to the rules and regulations of this constitution,
and the laws of New Hampshire, so help me God.”
If the officer be a quaker his affirmation is received, adding thereto,
“I do this under the pains and penalties of perjury.”
The financial organization is equally economic and liberal. Every town
appoints one or more collectors of taxes, who are furnished with the tax
lists and entrusted with full powers to seize, in case of necessity, the
goods or persons of delinquents. If any one refuse to produce a
statement of his property subject to taxes, the municipal council
determines the sum such an individual shall pay to the state. The levies
upon the counties are divided by the judges of a court which is held
four times a year, and the proportion that each town is to pay, is
specified in the order to the treasurer of the county.
A new assessment of taxes is annually made in the month of April, upon
the property of taxable individuals; all these goods are taxed at six
per cent of the value of their income; except uncultivated lands, and
ships which only pay ¼ per cent of their real value. Mills and
ferry-boats are taxed one-twelfth of their annual income: funds in
commerce according to their value, and money at interest at from
three-fourths to one per cent.
The debts contracted by the state in 1814, amounting with the interest
to more than 30,000 dollars, have been paid; and the state has at
present considerable funds in the bank of the United States.
The wisdom and economy of the administration, and the equity of the
government have borne their fruits. The happiness of the people of New
Hampshire is indubitable; it is attested by the diffusion of knowledge,
by the wealth of commerce, the prosperity of agriculture, and the rapid
increase of population. This increase in spite of the constant
emigration towards the new countries of the south, and especially of the
west, is still very remarkable. In 1755 the population was about 34,000
souls; in 1790 it was 141,885; in 1800 it was 183,858; in 1810 it was
214,460, and at present it amounts to 244,161 souls. Of this number
about 800 are free persons of colour. Although there is no special law
against slavery, the philanthropic spirit of the inhabitants, and a
correct view of their interests, have done justice in regard to this
monstrosity, and we may say at present, slavery does not exist in New
Hampshire: we may say the same indeed of all the New England states.
This population of 244,161 souls, furnishes 2,384 persons devoted to
agriculture, 8,699 to manufactures, and 1,068 to commerce.
The state of New Hampshire could bring 25,000 men into the field from
the class of citizens from 16 to 45 years old. In case of need this
force could be considerably augmented by the men who are on the alarm
list, which is formed of men from 45 to 60 years old, and of all those
exempt from ordinary service by the militia regulations. The exemptions
are the same as those of Massachusetts.
I have said that the diffusion of knowledge in New Hampshire was great.
The advantage of a good general education is owing to the care of the
government and the foresight of the constitution, which directs the
legislator and magistrate always to regard as a sacred duty the
advancement of the interests of letters and science and of all the
public schools; to encourage private institutions; to give rewards and
privileges for the encouragement of agriculture, the arts, sciences and
commerce; the natural history and manufactures of the country.
As in all the rest of the Union, absolute liberty in religious concerns
is declared by the constitution to be a natural and inalienable right;
no one can be disturbed or interfered with on account of his religious
views. The law does not acknowledge any dominant sect. All the ministers
of the different communions have equal right to the protection of the
government, and receive their salaries from their parishioners, whose
good will they are obliged to acquire, and they only obtain it by
setting a virtuous example. Thus their manners are generally pure,
marriages common, and celibacy but little esteemed. It is rare in the
interior towns to find a bachelor over thirty years old. The girls marry
so young, that it is not uncommon to see the mother and daughter both
nursing their infants at the same time. We may also readily find the
grandfather, father and son, at work together in the fields.
Many other particulars remained to be learned relative to New Hampshire,
but the general having promised to make a second visit in the ensuing
spring, I shall profit thereby to collect the information I could not
procure during so short a stay.
We left Portsmouth for Boston, as already stated, at midnight and
arrived there at two o’clock; we set out again at four, through
Lexington, Lancaster, Worcester, Tolland, and Hartford. In each of these
places, Lafayette received from all the citizens evidences of regard,
which vividly affected him, but to which he had scarce time to respond,
so rapid was our journey. We slept the first night at the charming
country house of Mr. Wilder, near Boston, whose kind hospitality will
never be effaced from our memory. On the second, we stopped at Stafford,
after having been present at the brilliant festivities of Worcester, and
on the fourth day, at 10 A.M. we arrived at Hartford, a pretty and very
commercial town, situated upon the west bank of the Connecticut river,
fifty miles from its source. The population of Hartford is 4726 souls,
and it divides with New Haven the advantage of being the seat of
government of the state of Connecticut.
Lafayette entered Hartford preceded by a numerous escort of troops, and
welcomed by the whole population with the most lively demonstrations of
veneration and love. The municipal body came to meet him, and the mayor
delivered an address. He was then conducted with great pomp to the State
House where he was received by Governor Wolcott, who in receiving him,
addressed him in the name of the state.
After his discourse, to which Lafayette made an affectionate reply,
numerous introductions of all the persons who could come into the hall,
took place. The assembly could scarcely retain their emotion, when old
general Wadsworth entered, bearing the epaulettes and scarf worn by
Lafayette at the battle of Brandywine, where he was wounded. The scarf
still retained traces of his blood. These epaulettes and scarf were
given to General Swift after the peace, and his family had preserved
them carefully, in memory of him who wore them, and the cause he
defended.
At the moment we left the state house, he found himself in the midst of
eight hundred children from the public schools, who presented him with a
gold medal on which was inscribed, “The Children of Hartford to
Lafayette, September 4, 1824.”
After passing through several streets strewn with flowers, we arrived at
the institution for the deaf and dumb. About sixty of these young
unfortunates arranged in a line, awaited in the profound and eternal
silence which the lamentable caprice of nature had imposed on them, for
the arrival of Lafayette. As soon as they saw him, they pointed out to
him, while placing their hands on their _hearts_, a legend containing
these words, “What the nation expresses we feel.” At their head was
their teacher Mr. CLERC, pupil of the Abbe Sicard and of Massieu.
Lafayette experienced lively pleasure in seeing this young Frenchman,
whose love of liberty and of humanity had brought him to this country,
where he had rendered the most important services.
When General Lafayette had reviewed the troops, under command of Colonel
Johnson, and taken leave of the magistrates and inhabitants of Hartford,
he was conducted on board of the steam-boat Oliver Ellsworth, by a
detachment of an hundred revolutionary veterans, preceded by the
military band. After taking leave of his ancient companions in arms, the
boat pushed off, and we began to descend the Connecticut. This river
which arises between lower Canada and New Hampshire, a little above the
45th degree parallel of latitude, serves as a boundary between this
state and that of Vermont, and traverses the states of Massachusetts and
Connecticut from north to south. Its course is about three hundred miles
long. Although much obstructed by rocks, it is navigable by batteaux
almost to its source, and large vessels can ascend it nearly fifty
miles. During its course, it receives a large number of tributaries, and
empties into Long-Island sound about thirty miles east of New Haven. Its
banks are very delightful and fertile, though we had but little time to
enjoy the sight. Soon after leaving Hartford, our boat stopped in front
of Middletown, a beautiful little manufacturing town situated upon the
right bank of the river. The sound of cannon and the acclamations of the
crowd that thronged the bank, apprised Lafayette of the impatience with
which he was expected by the people of Middletown. He hastened on shore
to express his satisfaction, and it was not until seven in the evening
that he returned on board the Oliver Ellsworth; so that night soon came
on and hid from our view the beautiful dwellings which adorn both banks
of the Connecticut. However we could form some idea of their number by
the lights which appeared on the right and left, glittering like stars
amid the obscurity.
At day-break we emerged from the river into Long-Island sound, commonly
called the East River. We had Long-Island on our left, and the state of
New York on our right.—Whichever way we turned, we beheld beautiful
country houses or farms, the mere aspect of which announced comfort and
abundance. Although the sun was but just risen when I went on deck, I
perceived a large number of ladies at their windows, waiting for the
vessel which they knew was to bring back Lafayette, to New York. As soon
as our flag was perceived, it was saluted by the most animated
exclamations and signs of the warmest affection.
While breathing the fresh morning air, always more so in the vicinity of
the sea, and contemplating with pleasure, the delightful harmony of a
beautiful prospect, and a rich and free industry, I was accosted by one
of our travelling companions, an old revolutionary soldier, who came
with us from Hartford, who said he could not sleep during the night, so
much was he excited by the pleasure of seeing his general again. I asked
him for some account of the most remarkable dwellings, which were in
view, and he replied with much kindness, and in a way that led me to
believe, that he was familiar with the navigation of the sound. When
asked if he had occasionally visited Long-Island, he replied, “Oh yes,
certainly, and it is long since the first time; it was in 1776, and
without the courage and skill of our worthy General Washington, it is
probable that this first visit to Long-Island would have also been my
last, and my bones would now rest in peace. It would have been a pity,
however, as I should have missed the happiness I yesterday enjoyed in
shaking hands with one who has done so much for the independence of my
country,” and a tear of gratitude and tenderness fell from his eyes.
After some moments of silence, emboldened by his frank and cordial
manners, I inquired in what manner his first visit occurred, with which
so many other recollections appeared to be connected. He replied, by
taking me by the arm, and turning round towards Long-Island, which like
a moving panorama, was swiftly passing before our eyes, “in 1776, I was
no longer a child, as my bald head and white hairs may show you, and
served in the continental army; our regiment made part of the forces
destined to defend Long-Island. On the 7th of August, the English and
Hessians to the number of about 24,000, protected by the guns of their
ships, landed upon the island. We had not more than ten thousand troops,
and were in such a position that the greater part of these could not be
brought into action. The action was hot and our resistance obstinate,
although the enemy had every advantage over us in numbers, discipline
and experience.
“The attack of the English was conducted with intelligence and bravery,
but I dare say, if we were less skillful, our courage was not
undervalued by our adversaries. In fact, we were soon surrounded, some
were taken and the rest dispersed, leaving the victory in the hands of
the enemy together with our two generals, Sullivan and Sterling. We lost
from 1000 to 1200 men, and the English about as many.
“After this unfortunate engagement, we entrenched our lines at Brooklyn,
where we were not in safety; fatigued and discouraged by our defeat,
having in front of us, an enemy of superior force, rendered daring by
success, and knowing that a numerous squadron was preparing to cut off
our retreat by entering the East river, we felt clearly, that we could
not escape complete destruction unless by the aid of Providence, and the
prudence of our commander-in-chief; Washington resolved to withdraw us
from this dangerous position. Profiting by the darkness of the night, he
crossed the East river in person on the 29th of August, and found us in
our lines. His presence re-animated our hopes and courage; we relied
with confidence on his direction, and our retreat was effected with an
address, which alone would have sufficed to rank him among the best
generals. It is true that under these circumstances, Providence
vouchsafed us a striking evidence of its protection. A thick fog
enveloped Long-Island during the whole night; so that our movements were
completely concealed from the enemy, although the atmosphere on the New
York side was brilliantly clear. We passed so near to the enemy, that we
could distinctly hear the labourers at work, preparing for the attack of
next morning. Before day-break, our 9000 men, with their baggage,
magazines, horses and munitions of war, had crossed the river, where it
is more than a mile wide, and without losing a single man. An hour after
our arrival at New York, the fog dispersed as if by enchantment, and
permitted us to see the English entering our lines with defiance, where
not a single man was to be found.”
During this recital of the old soldier, almost all our travelling
companions were collected on deck, grouped around us, and the
conversation soon became general. A great deal was said of Long-Island,
of the elegance and richness of its country seats where the merchants of
New York go to seek repose and fresh air during the protracted heats of
summer. I learned that this isle, anciently called Matawack,[10] by the
Indians, its ancient inhabitants, is 140 miles long, and its width
varies from one to five miles. It is the largest island existing between
Cape Florida and Cape Sable. The coast, which is washed by the Atlantic
ocean, is flat, sandy and indented by various bays. The greatest part of
its surface is level. The soil is composed of a blackish, spongy earth,
upon a basis of sand which absorbs the rain and is little favorable to
vegetation. Dr. Mitchill, the learned translator of Cuvier’s theory of
the earth, has remarked that a bed of sea sand extends the whole length
of the island at the depth of from 30 to 50 feet, containing clam and
oyster shells, and that pieces of wood have also been found in digging
wells. A range of hills which traverse the island from New Utrecht in
the west, to the environs of South-hole in the east, is elevated at
Harbour hill more than 319 feet above the level of the sea.
Notwithstanding the unfavorable character of the soil, the finest
orchard of fruit trees is found on Long-Island, perhaps in all America.
It is cultivated by Mr. Prince, a skilful gardener and orchardist, whose
enlightened zeal renders great services to his country, and who will
without doubt, become very serviceable to Europe, as his correspondence
is already much sought after.
It was about noon when we arrived at New York, General Lafayette hoped
to re-enter the city quietly, but the streamers and flags of the Oliver
Ellsworth betrayed his return; and the Franklin ship of the line which
was at anchor, fired a salute of thirteen guns. This salute was a signal
to the citizens of New York, and when we landed at Fulton wharf we found
the population collected, as on the first day of our arrival, who
accompanied us with acclamations to the City hotel, where we found our
lodgings as we had left them.