THE RELIGION OF THE TABLE

When the starving peasantry of France were bearing with inimitable

fortitude their great bereavement in the death of Louis le Grand,

how cheerfully they must have bowed their necks to the easy yoke of

Philip of Orleans, who set them an example in eating which he had not

the slightest objection to their following. A monarch skilled in the

mysteries of the cuisine must wield the scepter all the more gently

for his schooling in handling the ladle. In royalty, the delicate

manipulation of an omelette soufflé is at once an evidence of genius,

and an assurance of a tender forbearance in state policy. All good

rulers have been good livers, and if most bad ones have been the same

this merely proves that even the worst of men have still something

divine in them.

There is more in a good dinner than is disclosed by removal of the

covers. Where the eye of hunger perceives only a juicy roast that

of faith detects a smoking god. A well cooked joint is redolent of

religion, and a delicate pasty crisp with charity. The man who can

light his after-dinner Havana without feeling full to the neck with

all the cardinal virtues is either steeped in iniquity or has dined

badly. In either case he is no true man. It is here held that it is

morally impossible for a man to dine daily upon the fat of the land in

courses and yet deny a future state of existence beatific with beef and

ecstatic with all edibles. A falsity of history is that of Heliogabalus

dining on nightingales’ tongues. No true gourmet would ever send a

nightingale to the shambles so long as scarcer, and therefore, better

songsters might be obtained.

It is a fine natural instinct that teaches the hungry and cadaverous to

avoid the temples of religion, and a shortsighted and misdirected zeal

that would gather them into it. Religion is for the oleaginous, the

fat-bellied, chyle-saturated devotees of the table. Unless the stomach

be lined with good things, the parson may say as many as he can and his

truths shall not be swallowed nor his wisdom inly digested. Probably

the highest, ripest, and most acceptable form of worship is performed

with a knife and fork; and whosoever on the resurrection morning can

produce from amongst the lumber of his cast-off flesh a thin-coated

and elastic stomach showing evidences of daily stretchings done in the

body will find it his readiest passport and best credential. Surely God

will not hold him guiltless who eats with his knife, but if the deadly

steel be always well laden with toothsome morsels divine justice will

be tempered with mercy to that man’s soul. When the author of _The

Lost Tales of Miletus_ represented Sisyphus as capturing his guest,

the King of Terrors, and stuffing the old glutton with meat and drink

until he became “a jolly, rubicund, tun-bellied Death,” he gave us a

tale that needs no “_hæc fabula docet_” to point out the moral.

I verily believe that Shakspeare writ down Fat Jack at his last gasp,

as babbling, not o’ green fields, but o’ green turtle, and that

starveling, Colley Cibber, altered the text from sheer envy of a good

man’s death. To die well we must live well, is a familiar platitude.

Morality is, of course, best promoted by the good quality of our fare,

but quantitative excellence is by no means to be despised. _Cæteris

paribus_, the man who eats much is a better Christian than the man

who eats little; and he who eats little will live more godly than he

who eats nothing.

The Collected Works of Ambrose Bierce, Volume 09 Tangential Views · 第 13 / 83 题