MISCELLANEOUS RULES
Below are given a number of rules for doing things about an automobile,
which may help the novice remember the instructions heretofore given
by the agent from whom he bought the car, or obtained at the service
station, in the manufacturer’s book of instructions, or elsewhere.
FOUR THINGS TO DO BEFORE LEAVING THE GARAGE
Be sure there is plenty of water.
Be sure there is plenty of gasoline.
Be sure there is plenty of oil.
Be sure there is plenty of air in the tires.
FIVE THINGS TO DO BEFORE CRANKING THE ENGINE
Be sure the emergency brake is set.
Be sure the gear-shift lever is in neutral position.
Retard the spark fully.
Open the gas hand throttle about one-third.
Throw switch to battery position.
THREE THINGS TO DO AFTER CRANKING
Close the throttle until the engine idles.
Advance the spark about two-thirds.
Switch from battery to magneto.
TO ADJUST A CARBURETOR
Adjust the needle valve at low speed—engine idling.
For high speeds adjust the auxiliary air valve.
(Owners should learn the make-up of their carburetor before attempting
to adjust it, and should first watch someone who knows how to do it.)
TO ADJUST CAM SHAFTS WHICH TIME VALVE OPENING AND CLOSING
Make sure that push-rod adjustment is right—that a thin card will pass
between push rod and valve stem when valve is closed.
Determine direction of rotation of cam shafts.
Set fly wheel so that the mark 1 T. C. (top center) registers with
pointer.
Turn fly wheel until mark 10° P. T. C. (past top center) registers
with pointer.
Rotate exhaust cam shaft in proper direction until the exhaust valve
of No. 1 cylinder has just closed.
Rotate inlet cam shaft until inlet valve of No. 1 cylinder is just
about to open.
Mesh the gears and lock them in place.
If No. 1 cylinder is right the others must be.
RULE FOR TIMING THE MAGNETO
Find the firing order of the engine.
Turn crank shaft of engine and note directions in which armature and
distributor of magneto should revolve.
Set No. 1 cylinder on beginning of power stroke by watching exhaust
valve just close and then turning crank one complete revolution.
Set fly wheel so that mark No. 1. T. C. registers with pointer.
Retard spark fully—by moving breaker box in same direction as arrow
points or armature rotates, as far as it will go.
Rotate armature in proper direction until interrupter points are just
about to open.
In this position mesh gears and lock magneto to base.
At this point prove your work by advancing spark. If points are right
they will open.
Notice what point in distributor the rotor is touching. This goes to
No. 1 cylinder.
Wire distributor in firing order of the engine.
(The distributor always rotates in opposite direction to the armature.)
RULES FOR CARE OF CLUTCH
To remedy a harsh gripping leather-faced cone clutch, apply neatsfoot
oil or castor oil to leather face.
To remedy a slipping leather-faced cone clutch, apply fuller’s earth
or French talc to leather facing. In rare cases a little gasoline may
be used.
To remedy a harsh gripping multiple disc clutch that runs in oil, add
engine oil to the mixture.
To remedy a slipping multiple disk clutch running in oil, add kerosene
to the mixture.
Too little spring tension will cause slipping.
Once every 100 miles turn down all grease cups on the clutch.
Once every 500 miles apply neatsfoot oil to a leather-faced clutch.
Once every 1000 miles drain a multiple disc clutch and clean
thoroughly with kerosene and renew the oil.
RULES FOR CARE OF TRANSMISSION AND DIFFERENTIAL
It must be kept half filled with very heavy oil. (Consult
manufacturer’s instructions.)
Once every 500 miles inspect and replenish lubricant if need be.
Once every 5000 miles drain case, clean thoroughly with kerosene, and
renew lubricant.
RULES FOR CARE OF OTHER PARTS
Once every 1000 miles pack universal joint with very heavy grease.
Once every 250 miles use oil can freely and turn down all grease cups
on torsion and radius rods.
Pack the wheel hubs with grease every 1000 miles.
Pack the steering worm housing with medium grease every 500 miles.
Oil the steering mechanism every 100 miles and turn down all grease
cups.
LUBRICATION TIME-TABLE
Lubricate as often as is necessary. The safest rule always is to
follow the manufacturer’s instructions.
Every 100 miles: Use oil can freely; turn all grease cups down two or
three turns.
Be sure that these parts are well lubricated: Steering apparatus,
clutch, spring-shackle bolts, crank handle, fan, valve-rocker arms,
wheel hubs.
Every 250 miles: Give same care to braking apparatus, emergency brake,
and gear-shift levers, and rocker shafts, water pump, torsion and
radius rods. Clean force-feed oil system.
Every 500 miles: Inspect transmission and differential cases and
refill if necessary; pack steering worm housing; apply neatsfoot oil
to cone clutch facing; clean gravity and circulating splash systems.
Every 1000 miles: Pack universal joints, ball and socket boots, hub
caps; oil magneto, electric motor, electric generator; clean disc
clutch; clean splash system; lubricate spring leaves by jacking up
frame of car, spreading leaves apart, and putting graphite mixed with
gasoline between leaves.
Every 5000 miles: Drain transmission and differential cases and clean
with kerosene and renew lubricant; clean wheel bearings and repack
hubs with grease.
Give all bearings a careful inspection and take up all play.
CARE OF STORAGE BATTERY
Keep electrolite over top of plates by adding distilled water.
Keep top of battery clean and metal parts covered with vaseline to
prevent corrosion.
Keep holes in vent plugs open.
Never leave battery standing in a discharged condition.
Make sure it is tightly fastened on car.
Examine battery once a week in summer; every two weeks in winter.
Take hydrometer readings at these times; never take hydrometer reading
immediately after adding water; wait fifteen minutes for water to mix
with electrolite.
If one cell always needs water examine for leaky container.
INDICATIONS OF A DISCHARGED BATTERY
Starting motor cranks engine slowly or not at all.
Lamps burn dimly or not at all.
Lamps burn brightly when first turned on but soon dim.
Electric horn weak.
Low specific gravity of electrolite.
CAUSES OF DISCHARGED BATTERY
Generator not charging battery.
Generator belt slipping.
Wires short-circuited or grounded.
Plates not covered with electrolite.
Defective or leaky cell.
Excessive lamp load.
Excessive use of lamps when engine is stopped.
Car not being run fast enough to charge at sufficient rate.
Using starter too much.
Cut-out not working properly.
Broken or loose connection between generator and battery.
(Storage battery efficiency in winter is half that of summer.)
LOCATING TROUBLES IN LIGHTING AND IGNITION SYSTEM
If no charge shows on dash meter when engine is running at speed equal
to 15 m. p. h., connect good ammeter in series with dash meter; if
this meter shows proper charging rate, trouble is with dash meter; if
it also shows no charge, connect voltmeter with generator terminals.
If it indicates a very high voltage, generator is O. K. and trouble is
between generator and battery.
Test cut-out and examine all connections and wires.
If lights light when engine is stopped, trouble is between generator
and ammeter. If lights do not light, trouble is between ammeter and
battery.
If no, or low, voltage is indicated, trouble is with the generator,
regulator, or wire between generator and regulator.
If starting motor will not crank engine, make sure battery is O.
K., connections bright and clean, commutator and brushes in good
condition, and that starting switch makes good contact. Crank engine
by hand to make sure some mechanical defect is not preventing engine
from turning.
If starting motor spins but does not crank engine, pinion or drive
gear may be loose, chain broken, or overrunning clutch slipping. If a
Bendix drive, pinion may stick in worm due to dirt in threads.
If none of the bulbs light, examine connection at battery, ammeter,
lighting switch, and wires between those units for breaks; also all
the bulbs may be burned out.
If a grounded system, examine ground connection at frame.
If only one bulb fails to light, trouble must be in its own circuit.
Take trouble lamp or voltmeter and test at contacts of connector
at lamp. If you get current at this point, trouble is with bulb or
contact pins sticking, or not long enough. If you do not get current
at this point, examine fuses, connections at lighting switch and
connectors; also wire for breaks.
As a short circuit on the car generally shows its presence by its
effect on battery, preventing it from holding a charge, if meter shows
discharge all the time, remove wire from meter or battery. If needle
remains on discharge, needle is stuck; if it drops to zero, there is a
short circuit or cut-out does not open.
A short circuit beyond the lighting switch will not show on the meter
until switch is turned to circuit in which short circuit is located.
This will cause lights to dim and show a heavy discharge on meter.
As there are other circuits whose current does not pass through meter,
a short circuit in them would not be indicated on meter, but would be
indicated by running down of battery. To locate, remove all bulbs,
also all wires from one of the battery terminals. Connect one side of
the trouble lamp to battery terminal and the other side of lamp to
wires removed. Any current leaving the battery must now pass through
the trouble lamp causing it to light.
1—If trouble lamp lights when lighting switch is turned off, short
circuit is either in starting motor-circuit, generator circuit (or
cut-out does not open), horn circuit, or in wires between lighting
switch and battery, or in ignition circuit. Eliminate one circuit
after another until trouble lamp goes out. Then examine circuit on
which it goes out for short.
2—If trouble lamp lights only when lighting switch is on, short
circuit is in circuit beyond lighting switch. Examine circuit
indicated on face of switch when in position that trouble lamp lights,
as switch can be divided into sections. Eliminate one section after
another until trouble lamp goes out; then examine this circuit for
short.