THE SPANISH SERIES
MADRID
THE SPANISH SERIES
_Edited by ALBERT F. CALVERT_
GOYA
TOLEDO
MADRID
SEVILLE
MURILLO
CORDOVA
EL GRECO
VELAZQUEZ
CERVANTES
THE PRADO
THE ESCORIAL
ROYAL PALACES OF SPAIN
SPANISH ARMS AND ARMOUR
GRANADA AND THE ALHAMBRA
LEON, BURGOS, AND SALAMANCA
VALLADOLID, OVIEDO, SEGOVIA, ZAMORA, AVILA, AND ZARAGOZA
_In preparation_
GALICIA
SCULPTURE IN SPAIN
CITIES OF ANDALUCIA
MURCIA AND VALENCIA
TAPESTRIES OF THE ROYAL PALACE
CATALONIA AND BALEARIC ISLANDS
SANTANDER, VIZCAYA, AND NAVARRE
MADRID
AN HISTORICAL DESCRIPTION
AND HANDBOOK OF
THE SPANISH CAPITAL,
BY ALBERT F. CALVERT,
WITH 453 ILLUSTRATIONS
LONDON: JOHN LANE, THE BODLEY HEAD
NEW YORK: JOHN LANE COMPANY MCMIX
TURNBULL AND SPEARS, PRINTERS, EDINBURGH.
PREFACE
Madrid is but a nursling among the cities of Spain. Marius Fulvius laid
siege to Toledo nearly two centuries before the birth of Christ, and it
is not until a thousand years later that we find the first historical
mention of Madrid. London, under the title of Augusta, was one of the
most important towns of Britain more than five hundred years before Don
Ramiro II. of Leon razed Majerit, as it was then called, in 939. This is
the first authoritative reference we have to Madrid. In 1540, Charles V.
abandoned the time-honoured capitals of Valladolid, Seville, Zaragoza,
and Toledo, to nurse his gout in the brisk, rarefied air of Madrid. In
1560 the city was declared “the only Court” by Philip II., and styled
“Imperial y Coronada, muy noble y muy leal”; Ferdinand VII., in 1814,
added the words “y muy heroica.”
Despite the flattering and dignified official epithets that have been
bestowed upon it, Madrid possesses many natural features which militate
against its popularity as a residential centre; but, despite its
isolated and elevated position and the treacherousness of its climate,
the city has not deserved the strictures that have been passed upon it
by captious and prejudiced critics. For Madrid is a city of broad
thoroughfares, magnificent public buildings, and handsome houses; and,
since it has been rescued from its geographical remoteness by being made
the centre of the Spanish railway system, it has become one of the most
accessible and prosperous capitals of Europe.
In devoting a volume to an historical and descriptive account of Madrid,
I am not only fulfilling a duty which could not be neglected in any
serious attempt to make this Spanish Series useful and comprehensive,
but I am also inspired with a hope of being able to dissipate many of
the erroneous and defamatory impressions that are current with regard to
the Spanish capital. I have approached the task from the standpoint of a
resident writing for visitors to the city, and if my notes are biassed
in favour of my subject, I can only say that I have a sincere liking and
admiration for the city, and I have spoken of its people as I have found
them. The Spanish metropolis is modern; it is imbued with the
principles of modern progress; and while one never ceases to rejoice in
the unfaltering, unchanging adherence to an immemorial past,
characteristic of Toledo, one may feel an interest, equally keen and
appreciative, in the spirit of new Spain which is to be found in Madrid.
Not the least pleasant part of an author’s privilege in penning a
preface is the opportunity it affords him of acknowledging the
assistance and courtesy he has received in the accomplishment of his
task. To Mr W. Gallichan my thanks are due for assistance received in
the compilation, and I am also grateful to Señor Don J. Lacoste and
Messrs Hauser y Menet for their kindness in permitting me to reproduce
many of the illustrations that adorn this little book.
A. F. C.
CONTENTS
PAGE
I. GENERAL IMPRESSIONS OF MADRID 1
II. HISTORY OF THE CITY 18
III. THE COURT AND SOCIETY IN MADRID 32
IV. ART IN MADRID 47
V. LITERATURE AND THE DRAMA 60
VI. CHURCHES AND PUBLIC BUILDINGS 72
VII. ALCALÁ DE HENARES 128
VIII. THE BULL-FIGHT 136
IX. THE ART OF THE BULL-FIGHTER 145
X. CAFÉ LIFE OF THE MADRILEÑOS 166
ILLUSTRATIONS
TITLE PLATE
Plan of Madrid 1
Arms of Madrid 2
General view of Madrid 3
View of Madrid from the Teja 4
General view of Madrid 5
View of Madrid from San Isidro 6
The Fountain of Cybele and Calle de Alcalá 7
The Northern Railway Station and Royal Palace 8
Puerta del Sol 9
Puerta del Sol 10
Calle de Alcalá 11
Calle de Alcalá 12
Calle de Alcalá 13
Calle de Alcalá 14
Carrera de San Jerónimo 15
Calle de Alcalá 16
Calle de Sevilla 17
Calle de Alcalá 18
Plaza de Castelar 19
Calle de Toledo 20
In old Madrid 21
Paseo de Recoletos 22
Paseo de Recoletos 23
Paseo de Recoletos 24
Paseo de Recoletos 25
Calle de Alcalá and Statue of Aguirre 26
Paseo de la Castellana 27
Plaza de Isabel II. 28
Plaza de Oriente 29
Plaza Mayor 30
Plaza Mayor 31
Plaza Mayor and Statue of Philip III. 32
Calle de Serrano 33
Calle de la Princesa on Good Friday 34
Entrance to the Park of Alfonso XIII. 35
Casa de Campo. The Lake 36
Toledo Bridge 37
Toledo Bridge 38
Toledo Bridge 39
Segovia Bridge 40
Entrance to the Retiro 41
Entrance to the Retiro 42
Principal Entrance to the Retiro 43
Retiro. The Parterre 44
Retiro. The Lake 45
Retiro. The Crystal Palace 46
Retiro. Arab Pavilion 47
Retiro. Arab Temple 48
Gate of Alcalá 49
Gate of Hierro 50
Gate of Toledo 51
Chamber of Deputies 52
The Cortes. Two bronze lions in front of the Palace 53
Interior of the Chamber of Deputies 54
Interior of the Chamber of Deputies 55
Reception Room at the Chamber of Deputies. Decorated
by Don A. Mélida 56
Reception Room at the Chamber of Deputies. Decorated
by Don A. Mélida 57
Façade of the Hospital. Calle Fuencarral 58
La Latina 59
Portal of the Hospital of the Conception or “La
Latina” in the Calle de Toledo 60
Staircase of La Latina 61
Portal and Staircase of the Hospital de la Latina 62
Arabian Palace of the Prado 63
Arabian Palace of the Prado 64
Lujanes Tower 65
The Aguirre School 66
The Spanish Theatre 67
The Royal Theatre 68
The Treasury Office in the Calle de Alcalá 69
Palace of the Marqués de Portugalete 70
Palace of the Marqués de Linares 71
The Bank of Spain 72
The War Office 73
Southern façade of the Museum and the Statue of
Murillo 74
The Prado Gallery. North façade 75
The Prado Gallery 76
The New Exchange 77
The Town Hall 78
The Northern Railway Station 79
Círculo de Contribuyentes 80
The Senate House 81
Hispano-American Bank 82
The Spanish Academy 83
The Atocha Station 84
National Library 85
The National Library and Museum 86
National Library. Detail of the façade 87
National Library and Museum. East façade 88
National Library. Sphinx 89
The Equitable Buildings in the Calle de Alcalá 90
Statue of María Cristina and Museum of Reproductions 91
Interior of the New Exchange 92
The Home Office 93
Astronomical Observatory 94
The Exchange 95
The War Office 96
The Town Hall 97
Ministerio de Fomento 98
Hermitage of San Isidro 99
Refuge of Our Lady of Mercy 100
Church of San Francisco el Grande 101
San Francisco el Grande. General view from the
Choir 102
San Francisco el Grande. The Concession of the
Jubilee of the Porciúncula 103
San Francisco el Grande. Left side of the Cupola 104
Crypt in the Almudena Cathedral 105
The Cathedral. Partial view of the Crypt 106
Church of Las Calatravas 107
Las Calatravas 108
Church of El Buen Suceso 109
General view of the Church El Buen Suceso 110
Church of San José 111
Church of San Isidro el Real 112
Interior of the Church of San Isidro 113
Church of La Virgen del Puerto 114
Church of Las Salesas. The Suffering Christ 115
Church of San Cayetano 116
Altar-piece in the Bishop’s Chapel 117
Door in the Bishop’s Chapel 118
The Bishop’s Chapel. Left side of the door 119
The Bishop’s Chapel. Right side of the door 120
The Bishop’s Chapel. Upper part of the door 121
The Bishop’s Chapel. Sepulchre of the Bishop of
Plasencia 122
The Bishop’s Chapel. Sepulchre of Don Francesco de
Vargas 123
The Bishop’s Chapel. Sepulchre of Doña Inés de
Carvajal 124
Parish Church of St Andrew. Sepulchre of San
Isidro, Patron Saint of Madrid 125
Interior of the Church of San Jerónimo. From a
picture in the Prado of the Prince of the Asturias
(Ferdinand VII.) taking the Oath of Allegiance
in 1789 126
View of the interior of the Church of San Jerónimo 127
San Antonio de la Florida 128
Church of San Antonio de la Florida 129
Interior of the Church of San Antonio de la Florida 130
Fresco in San Antonio de la Florida, by Goya 131
Fresco in San Antonio de la Florida, by Goya 132
Fresco in San Antonio de la Florida, by Goya 133
Fresco in San Antonio de la Florida, by Goya 134
Group of Angels in San Antonio de la Florida, by Goya 135
Group of Angels in San Antonio de la Florida, by Goya 136
Interior of the Church of San Antonio de la Florida 137
San Antonio de la Florida. Painting in the principal
Chapel, by Goya 138
San Antonio de la Florida. Paintings on the centres
of the intrados of the Choir and principal Chapel
Arches, by Goya 139
San Antonio de la Florida. Paintings on the springings
of the intrados of the principal Chapel Arches,
by Goya 140
San Antonio de la Florida. Paintings on the springings
of the intrados of the Choir Arches, by Goya 141
San Antonio de la Florida. Paintings on the intrados
of the Chapel Arch, left side, by Goya 142
San Antonio de la Florida. Paintings on the intrados
of the Chapel Arch, right side, by Goya 143
San Antonio de la Florida. Triangles formed by the
Dome adjoining the principal Chapel, by Goya 144
San Antonio de la Florida. Triangles formed by the
Dome adjoining the Choir, by Goya 145
San Antonio de la Florida. Paintings at the left sides
of the windows of the Dome, by Goya 146
San Antonio de la Florida. Paintings at the right
sides of the windows of the Dome, by Goya 147
San Antonio de la Florida. First group on the Cupola
to the left of the centre, by Goya 148
San Antonio de la Florida. Second group on the
Cupola to the left of the centre, by Goya 149
San Antonio de la Florida. Centre of the composition
on the Cupola facing the entrance, by Goya 150
San Antonio de la Florida. First group on the Cupola
to the right of the centre, by Goya 151
San Antonio de la Florida. Second group on the
Cupola to the right of the centre, by Goya 152
The Prado 153
The Prado 154
The Prado Gallery 155
The Prado. The Velazquez Gallery 156
Madrid Picture Gallery. Lower plan 157
Madrid Picture Gallery. Chief plan 158
Scene in the Life of Santo Domingo de Guzman, by
Pedro Berruguete. Prado 159
Ecce Homo, by Luis de Morales. Prado 160
The Baptism of Christ, by Navarrete. Prado 161
Portrait of Don Carlos, son of Philip II., by Alonso
Sánchez Coello. Prado 162
The Infantas Isabel Clara Eugenia and Catalina
Micaela, daughters of Philip II., by Alonso
Sánchez Coello. Prado 163
Jacob receiving the Blessing of his father Isaac, by
Ribera. Prado 164
Vision of St Peter the Apostle to St Peter Nolasco, by
Zurbaran. Prado 165
Los Borrachos, by Velazquez. Prado 166
The Forge of Vulcan, by Velazquez. Prado 167
The Surrender of Breda, by Velazquez. Prado 168
Philip IV., by Velazquez. Prado 169
Queen Isabel of Bourbon, by Velazquez. Prado 170
Don Baltasar Carlos, by Velazquez. Prado 171
Philip IV. in Hunting Costume, by Velazquez. Prado 172
Don Baltasar Carlos in Hunting Costume, by Velazquez.
Prado 173
Duke of Olivares, by Velazquez. Prado 174
Æsop, by Velazquez. Prado 175
St Antony Abbot visiting St Paul, by Velazquez.
Prado 176
Las Hilanderas, by Velazquez. Prado 177
Las Meninas, by Velazquez. Prado 178
Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, by Murillo.
Prado 179
El Tiñoso: St Elizabeth of Hungary tending the sick
in her Hospital, by Murillo. Prado 180
Father Cabanillas, by Murillo. Prado 181
The Child Jesus as Shepherd, by Murillo. Prado 182
Detail of Plate 179, by Murillo. Prado 183
The Vision of St Bernard, by Murillo. Prado 184
The Virgin of the Rosary, by Murillo. Prado 185
The Child St John, by Murillo. Prado 186
The Children, Jesus and St John, known by the name
of “Los Niños de la Concha,” by Murillo. Prado 187
The Holy Family and the Bird, by Murillo. Prado 188
Head of the Holy Shepherd (fragment), by Murillo
Prado 189
La Porciúncula (the Vision of St Francis), by Murillo.
Prado 190
The Martyrdom of St Andrew the Apostle at Patras,
by Murillo. Prado 191
The Dream of the Roman Senator and his wife, which
produced the Church of St Maria Maggiore at
Rome, by Murillo 192
The Roman Senator and his wife telling their dream
to Pope Liberius, by Murillo 193
The Annunciation, by El Greco. Prado 194
The Holy Family, by El Greco. Prado 195
The Crucifixion, by El Greco. Prado 196
The dead Christ in the arms of God the Father, by El
Greco. Prado 197
Charles IV., by Goya. Prado 198
Queen Maria Luisa, by Goya. Prado 199
The nude Maja, by Goya. Prado 200
The draped Maja, by Goya. Prado 201
The Family of Charles IV., by Goya. Prado 202
Goya at the age of 80, by V. López. Prado 203
Jesus and Mary Magdalene, by Correggio. Prado 204
The Holy Family and the Lamb, by Rafael. Prado 205
A Cardinal, by Rafael. Prado 206
Madonna and Child, with St Bridget and St Hulpus,
by Titian. Prado 207
The Crown of Thorns, by Domingo Tiepolo. Prado 208
Portrait of Albrecht Dürer, by himself. Prado 209
Queen Artemisia, by Rembrandt. Prado 210
Village Fête, by Teniers. Prado 211
Gallery of the Archduke Leopold in Brussels, by
Teniers. Prado 212
The Three Graces, by Rubens. Prado 213
The Holy Family, by Rubens. Prado 214
Van Dyck and Count Bristol, by Van Dyck. Prado 215
The Last Supper, by Juan de Juanes. Prado 216
The Catholic Sovereigns adoring the Virgin, by Juan
de Borgoña. Prado 217
A Gothic King, by Alonso Cano. Prado 218
The Water from the Rock, by Juan de las Roelas,
El Clérigo. Prado 219
A Soul in Pain, by Ribalta. Prado 220
Portrait of Philip II., by Pantoja de la Cruz. Prado 221
Portrait of Pedro Berruguete. 15th century. Collection
of Don José de Lázaro Galdeano 222
Architecture, Painting, and Sculpture, by G. Suñol.
Allegoric group intended for the façade of the
Prado 223
The Emperor Charles V. Prado Museum 224
The Empress Isabel of Portugal, wife of Charles V.
The Prado 225
A Satyr and children dancing. The Prado 226
Marble relief. Life-size figures. The Prado 227
Marble relief. Bacchantes. Life-size figures. The
Prado 228
Bronze heads. The Prado 229
Tapestry. The Baptist taking leave of his parents to
devote himself to penitence 230
Tapestry. The Virgin enthroned, Gideon showing the
lamb’s skin, and other scenes 231
Effigy of St Ferdinand, King of Spain. Chapel Royal 232
(1 to 5) Crowns and votive crosses of Guarrazar. (6)
Remains of St Ferdinand’s robe. (7) Moorish
spurs of St Ferdinand. Royal Armoury 233
C 1. Spanish man-at-arms, 15th century. Royal
Armoury 234
C 4. Spanish crossbowman, 15th century. Royal
Armoury 235
C 2. Spanish halberdier, 15th century. Royal Armoury 236
Mace-bearer of the 16th century with surcoat displaying
the Arms of Castile and Leon 237
A 26. Tilting harness of Charles V. Royal Armoury 238
A 112. Armour presented to Charles V. by the Duke
of Mantua. Royal Armoury 239
Armour of Charles V. made by Desiderio Colman.
(1849 Catalogue.) Royal Armoury 240
A 231. Armour made for Prince Philip (II.) by Wolf
of Landshut (1550). Royal Armoury 241
Armour of Charles V., Augsburg or Nuremberg make.
(1849 Catalogue.) Royal Armoury 242
A 37. Tilting harness of Charles V. made by Desiderio
Colman, Helmschmied. Royal Armoury 243
A 65. Tilting harness of Charles V. Royal Armoury 244
A 149. Armour of Charles V. (1541). Royal Armoury 245
A 243. Equestrian armour of Philip II. made by
Sigmund Wolf of Landshut. Royal Armoury 246
Armour of King Philip II. Royal Armoury 247
Armour of Philip II., engraved with the Royal Arms
of England. Royal Armoury 248
A 290. Armour of King Sebastian of Portugal. Royal
Armoury 249
A 290. Armour of King Sebastian, back plate (details).
Royal Armoury 250
A 291. Armour of Philip III. made by Lucio Picinino
of Milan. Royal Armoury 251
Armour made at Pamplona for the Duke of Savoy
(1620). Royal Armoury 252
Half armour of Philip IV. Royal Armoury 253
Milanese brigantine which belonged to Charles V.
Royal Armoury 254
B 1. Boy’s half armour made in Italy for the Infante,
afterwards Philip III. Royal Armoury 255
D 1. Boy’s half armour made for the Infante, afterwards
Philip III. (Second view.) Royal Armoury 256
B 4. Half armour presented to the Infante, afterwards
Philip III., by the Duke of Terranova.
Royal Armoury 257
B 18. Boy’s half armour made for the Infante Fernando,
son of Philip III. Royal Armoury 258
Half armour belonging to Prince Philip, afterwards
Philip IV. Royal Armoury 259
A 434. Gorget. Subject: The Siege of Ostend,
1601. Royal Armoury 260
A 434. Gorget of Philip II. Subject: The Battle of
Nieuport. Royal Armoury 261
Helmet of Philip II. made at Augsburg in 1549. Royal
Armoury 262
A 243. Helmet of Philip II. made by Wolf of Landshut
in 1554. Royal Armoury 263
A 290. Burgonet of King Sebastian of Portugal.
Royal Armoury 264
A 292. Burgonet made for Philip III. by Lucio
Picinino. Royal Armoury 265
A 350. Helmet for the Duke of Savoy (side view).
Royal Armoury 266
D 3. Burgonet of Charles V. designed by Giulio
Romano. Royal Armoury 267
M 5. Helmet of Francis I. of France, taken at the
Battle of Pavia. Royal Armoury 268
1511. Satin and velvet turban found in the palace of
Mustafa Bey of Oran, in 1722.--1533. Steel
turban of Ali Pasha, Turkish admiral at Lepanto.
Royal Armoury 269
D 63. The “Plus Ultra” shield designed by Giulio
Romano. Royal Armoury 270
D 10. Shield, early 17th century. Design: Warriors
in Combat. Royal Armoury 270
D 69. Italian shield, 16th century. Design: The
Triumph of Love. Royal Armoury 271
D 68. Shield of Augsburg make, 16th century. Royal
Armoury 271
D 79. Shield presented to Philip III. by the Duke of
Savoy in 1603. Royal Armoury 272
D 86. Moorish leather shield, end of 15th century.
Royal Armoury 273
M 6. Shield and sword of Francis I. of France, taken
at the battle of Pavia. Design: The Gallic Cock
attacking a warrior and putting him to flight.
Royal Armoury 274
A 242. Pommel and cantle of saddle of Philip II.
Royal Armoury 275
A 291. Cantle-plates of saddle made by Lucio Picinino.
Royal Armoury 276
Turkish saddle given to Charles III. Royal Armoury 277
Trophy formed of several pieces of armour of Philip II.
Royal Armoury 278
Armour of a greyhound. Royal Armoury 279
1987, 1992. Spanish arquebuses, end of 16th
century.--1955. Petronel, 16th century.--1961. Spanish
arquebus, with octagonal barrel inlaid with mother
of pearl and ivory, 16th century.--1972, 1977,
1946. Keys or cranks to cock the arquebuses.
Royal Armoury 280
Double breech-loading cannon, in bronze, used in
Spain at the end of the 15th century. Royal
Armoury 281
Sedan chair of Philip V. (from the coach-houses of the
Royal Palace, Madrid). Royal Armoury 282
Sedan chair of Ferdinand VI. (from the coach-houses
of the Royal Palace, Madrid). Royal Armoury 283
Sedan chair of Charles IV. (from the coach-houses
of the Royal Palace, Madrid). Royal Armoury 284
Sedan chair of Philip V. (from the coach-houses of the
Royal Palace, Madrid). Royal Armoury 285
Sedan chair of Charles III. (from the coach-houses
of the Royal Palace, Madrid). Royal Armoury 286
Campaign litter of the Emperor Charles V. Royal
Armoury 287
Carriage given by Napoleon I. to Charles IV. (from
the coach-houses of the Royal Palace, Madrid).
Royal Armoury 288
The Crown coach (from the coach-houses of the
Royal Palace, Madrid). Royal Armoury 289
General view of the interior of the old Armoury 290
General view of the interior of the old Armoury 291
General view of the interior of the old Armoury 292
Royal Academy of History. Exterior of the triptych-reliquary
from the stone monastery in Aragon 293
Royal Academy of History. Part of the triptych-reliquary
from the stone monastery in Aragon 294
Royal Academy of History. Paintings on the exterior
of the triptych-reliquary from the stone
monastery in Aragon 295
Statue of Philip III. in the Plaza Mayor 296
Statue of Philip IV. in the Plaza de Oriente 297
Statue of Espartero the Peace-maker 298
Statue of General Concha, Marqués del Duero 299
Statue of Velazquez 300
Statue of Murillo 301
Retiro. Statue of Goya 302
Statue of Cervantes 303
Cervantes 304
Statue of Calderón de la Barca. (The work of J.
Figueras) 305
Isabel the Catholic. Bronze group in the Castellana.
(The work of Oms) 306
Monument to the memory of Columbus in the Paseo
de Recoletos 307
Monument to the memory of Columbus in the Paseo
de Recoletos 308
Monument to the memory of Columbus in the Paseo
de Recoletos 309
Monument to the memory of Columbus in the Paseo
de Recoletos 310
Monument to the memory of Columbus in the Paseo
de Recoletos 311
Monument to commemorate the 2nd of May 312
Fountain of Neptune in the Prado 313
The Fountain of Cybele 314
The Prado, with the Fountain of the Four Seasons 315
The Royal Palace from the Casa de Campo 316
Royal Palace. The changing of the Guard (Halberdiers) 317
The Palace 318
The Palace from the Plaza de Oriente 319
The Royal Palace 320
Façade of Palace 321
Palace and Plaza de la Armeria 322
The Queen Mother leaving the Palace 323
Principal Staircase 324
Detail of Throne Room 325
General view of Throne Room 326
The Throne 327
Room of Charles III. 328
The Queen’s Room 329
Room of Mirrors 330
Gasparini Room of Charles III. 331
Hall of Columns 332
The Wedding. The King and Queen leaving the
church and entering the Royal coach 333
A Battle of Flowers 334
His Majesty the King of Spain 335
H.M. Queen Victoria of Spain 336
The King and Queen of Spain 337
H.M. Queen Victoria 338
Her Majesty the Queen Mother 339
Don Carlos of Bourbon 340
Medal struck in honour of the Royal Marriage 341
A Lady with a Mantilla 342
Mantillas 343
An out-door Pelota Court, with six players, three
against three 344
A Pelota Court 344
A Tartaña 345
The Harvest Cart 345
Sketches in Spain 346
Sketches in Spain 347
A Dancer 348
An Orange Seller 348
The Counsellor of the village 349
Full list of lottery results 349
Bull-fighters at the tavern 350
A Spanish girl 350
View of the Monastery of the Escorial 351
View of the Monastery (east side) 352
The Colonnade of the Monastery 353
Upper Cloister of the Monastery 354
Lower Cloister of the Monastery 355
The Evangelists’ Court 356
Principal Staircase of the Monastery 357
Interior of the Church 358
Panteon of the Kings 359
Panteon of the Infantes 360
Chapter Room. (Monastery) 361
Sacristy. (Monastery) 362
Altar-piece of the Santa Forma, painted by Claudio
Coello. (Sacristy of the Monastery) 363
Retablo of the High Altar. (Basilica of the
Monastery) 364
Left side of the High Altar: Interment of the Emperor
Charles V. 365
The Tabernacle in the Escorial Church 366
Choir Stalls. (Basilica of the Monastery) 367
Library of the Monastery 368
Apollo and Mercury, by Peregrino Tibaldi. (Fresco
on the arch of the Escorial Library) 369
Reception Hall. (Palace) 370
Hall of Ambassadors. (Palace) 371
Dining-Hall. (Palace) 372
Pompeian Hall. (Palace) 373
“Casa del Principe” or Lower Lodge 374
Coffee-Room. (Casa del Principe) 375
The Last Supper, by Titian. (The Escorial) 376
The Holy Family, by Rafael. (Casa del Principe at
the Escorial) 377
St Maurice and other Martyrs, by El Greco. (Chapter
Hall of the Escorial) 378
The Dream of Philip II., by El Greco. (Chapter Hall
of the Escorial) 379
Country Dance, by Goya. (Tapestry in the Dining
Hall of the Palace) 380
The Washerwomen, by Goya. (Tapestry in the
Escorial Palace) 381
The China Merchant, by Goya. (Tapestry in the
Escorial Palace) 382
The Grape-Sellers, by Goya. (Tapestry in the
Escorial Palace) 383
Children picking Fruit, by Goya. (Tapestry in the
Escorial Palace) 384
The Kite, by Goya. (Tapestry in the Escorial
Palace) 385
A Smoker, by Teniers. (Casa del Principe at the
Escorial) 386
The Story of the Passion. Diptych, in ivory, of
the 13th century. (From the Camarín of St
Theresa) 387
Egyptian Bronzes. Amon-Ra and Isis. (National
Archæological Museum) 388
Egyptian Bronzes. Osiris and Osor-Api. (National
Archæological Museum) 389
Alcalá de Henares. Paseo de Cervantes 390
Alcalá de Henares. General Central Archives 391
Alcalá de Henares. General Central Archives 392
Alcalá de Henares. Façade of the Archives 393
Court of the Alcalá de Henares. General Central
Archives 394
Alcalá de Henares. Chapel of the “Oidor.” Actual
state of the north wall 395
Alcalá de Henares. Actual state of the south wall 396
Alcalá de Henares. Chapel of the “Oidor.” Actual
state of the frieze round the north wall 397
Alcalá de Henares. The University 398
Alcalá de Henares. Façade of the University 399
Alcalá de Henares. Longitudinal section of the
Chapel of San Ildefonso in the University 400
Alcalá de Henares. Details of the façade of the
University 401
Alcalá de Henares. Details of the façade of the
University 402
Alcalá de Henares. Paseo de la Estación 403
Alcalá de Henares. Moorish Palace 404
Alcalá de Henares. Interior of the Cathedral 405
Alcalá de Henares. Interior of the Cathedral 406
Alcalá de Henares. The Cathedral. Nave 407
Alcalá de Henares. Sepulchre of Don Alonso Carrillo,
Archbishop of Toledo 408
Alcalá de Henares. Sepulchre of Cardinal Francisco
Ximénez de Cisneros 409
Alcalá de Henares. Sepulchre of the Archbishop of
Toledo, Don Alfonso Carrillo de Acuña 410
Alcalá de Henares. Details of the Sepulchre of
Cardinal Francisco Ximénez de Cisneros 411
Alcalá de Henares. Chapel of Santiago in the Church
of Santa María 412
Alcalá de Henares. Chapel of Santiago in the Church
of Santa María 413
Alcalá de Henares. Staircase in the Archbishop’s
Palace 414
Alcalá de Henares. Details of the Western Court
and Entrance Court, Archbishop’s Palace 415
Alcalá de Henares. Longitudinal section and details
of the Archbishop’s Palace 416
Alcalá de Henares. Frontispiece of a book called
“Vita Cristi Cartuxano” 417
Muñoza bulls, the property of the Duke of Veragua,
by Joaquín Díez 418
Testing a “Becerro,” or young bull, at Tablada, near
Seville, by Joaquín Díez 419
Selecting bulls from the herd of the Duke of Veragua
at “La Muñoza,” by Joaquín Díez 420
The Toilet of the Toreador before the Bull-fight, by
V. Esquivel 421
Before the Bull-fight, by B. Ferrandiz 422
Toreadors preparing to enter the Arena, by J.
Agrasot 423
Entertaining the Bull-fighter, by Alarcón 424
“Here comes the Bull!” by P. Francés. National
Exhibition of Beaux-Arts, 1887 425
“The Uninvited Guest,” by E. Mélida 426
Head of a Bull, by Joaquín Díez 427
Principal façade of the New Plaza de Toros 428
Principal Entrance to the New Plaza de Toros 429
Interior of the New Plaza de Toros 430
Bull-fight. Entrance of the “Cuadrilla” 431
Bull-fight. A Picador inciting the bull 432
Bull-fight. The Picador 433
Bull-fight. The Picador 434
Bull-fight. A “Quite” 435
Bull-fight. A “Quite” of El Gallo 436
Bull-fight. Lagartijo after a “Recorte” 437
Bull-fight. The Banderillas 438
Bull-fight. Frascuelo irritating the bull with a cloak
before killing him 439
Bull-fight. Lagartijo irritating the bull with a cloak
before killing him 440
Bull-fight. The bull being dragged out of the Arena 441
Ladies at the bull-fight 442
The Procession 443
Entrance of the bull 443
The Picador 444
At close quarters 444
A turn with his back to the bull 445
Fixing the Banderillas 445
The Matador 446
The final stroke 446
Bull-fight. Leap over the bull’s neck 447
Bull-fight. Leap with the pole 448
Bull-fight. Banderillas 449
Toreador wounded during a bull-fight, by Lizcano 450
Guerrita. Banderillero 451
Antonio Fuentes 451
Luis Mazzantini and Cuadrilla 452
Bull-fight. Last moments of a Toreador after being
attacked in the Arena, by R. Novas 453
MADRID
I
GENERAL IMPRESSIONS OF MADRID
“From Madrid to heaven, and in heaven a spy-hole to look at Madrid” is
the vaunt of the inhabitants of the Spanish capital. This pride has its
justification, for Madrid is a fine city, remarkable for its position on
a plateau over two thousand feet above the sea, famous for its progress
during the eventful eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, and interesting
by reason of the great names in the arts and literature inscribed upon
its records. Madrid for the writers of the Romantic school was as
charming as all other things Spanish; for de Musset it was “princesse
des Espagnes” and “blanche ville des sérénades.”
Few towns in Europe are situated amid so many natural hindrances to
development as Madrid. It stands south and east of the bleak mountains
of central Spain, upon one of many exposed and almost treeless uplands,
where the winds of winter and early spring sting and bite, and the sun
in summer sheds pitiless heat, which dries up the blood and disposes to
languor. So fickle is the climate of this lofty region that, even in the
height of August, it is never quite safe to discard the _capa_ after
sundown, for, during the hottest day, a sinister and gelid breath may
assail one at the street corner with a menace of chill to the lungs. Yet
Madrid is not unhealthy. It is dry, invigorating, swept by mountain
breezes, bathed for long periods in brightest sunlight, and free from
the contamination and depression of smoke. With proper provision against
the variations in temperature, one may enjoy a full measure of health
and live to an advanced age in this city of the hills. The more
dangerous kinds of fever are uncommon in Madrid; the chief risk to
health is in the sudden keen air that brings a shiver when the body has
been scorched by the sun, and one turns to seek the shady side of the
street.
Rio and Cabarras, two Spanish historians, speak of the bad odours and
the dirt of Madrid in the seventeenth century. This reproach was,
however, removed in the time of Henry Swinburne, an intelligent
traveller, who visited the city in 1776. “The appearance of Madrid,”
writes Swinburne, “is grand and lively; noble streets, good houses, and
excellent pavement, as clean as it was once dirty.” In earlier days it
was not thought necessary to wash the thoroughfares, because the purity
of the air was an effective antidote to the evil of the filth and the
smells. Rio, for example, advances the opinion that the invigorating
mountain breezes are a sufficient purification.
The clear quality of the Madrid sunshine is a compensation for the
treachery of its winds. There are but few sunless days. “The sky at
Madrid is almost always clear and serene,” wrote Laborde, in 1809. The
heights of the Guadarrama are too far from the city to throw their shade
upon it, and the brilliant sunlight pours down and floods the streets
and squares, and penetrates every dwelling. Looking upon the wide,
rolling, hillocky country from the outskirts of the city, you have a
marvellous vista, full of colour, glow, and the grandeur of huge
sunlight spaces. The sky is almost perennially deep blue; but at times
there are vast masses of purple cloud above the horizon, whose passing
shadow produces changing effects of light and darkness upon the
far-stretching landscape, and adds a sternness to the sierra.
For a long period this part of Castile was ravaged by the fellers of
trees. The farmers aimed besides at the extinction of all kinds of
birds, under the delusion that every bird is harmful to crops; and in
the conduct of this warfare the axe was laid to the roots of millions of
trees, so that no harbour for small birds might remain. This clearing of
the forests destroyed the natural barriers against icy winds, deprived
the land of all shade, made deserts in place of groves, and affected the
climate and rainfall. A wiser policy was instituted in later years, and
now a number of large plantations have grown up in the environs of the
town, and the once denuded hillocks and bare gullies are here and there
clothed with shady coppices. For the rest, the herbage of these grey
uplands yields moderate pasturage for sheep in summer.
Madrid lacks the dignity and beauty which a wide river lends to a city.
The little Manzanares is not an imposing flood. It can scarcely rank as
a river. The handsome Puente de Toledo spans the stream, and gives a
touch of the picturesque to its muddy flow; and there is also the
well-constructed Bridge of Segovia, with many arches. These gave rise to
the now venerable joke that it would be better to sell the bridges and
buy some water with the proceeds.
Several writers have declared that the seat of the Spanish Court is not
typical of the cities of Spain. This may be accepted as true in the
sense that it has very little to show in the nature of antiquities.
Segovia, Toledo, Avila, Burgos, Seville, Cordova, and Granada possess
more interesting and romantic memorials of the past than the city of
Madrid. Nevertheless, the Castilian capital has associations with days
of immense moment in the history of Spain, and it is moreover one of the
handsomest towns in the Europe of to-day; and whatever else is wanting
in Madrid, it boasts of a priceless collection of some of the world’s
masterpieces of painting. Only here can one realise the greatness of
Velazquez, and appraise the genius of Goya. Its Royal Armoury, too, is
the finest in the world.
That Madrid has modelled itself upon Paris is not to its discredit. The
city manifests the modern spirit in Spain rather than the mediæval
atmospheres. It does not live upon its past like Cordova and Toledo.
Madrid aspires to be a progressive modern municipality. The streets are
broad, the system of lighting is modern, there are electric tramcars,
motor-cars, and London and Parisian vehicles in the thoroughfares. The
streets are deluged with the fire-hose three times a day, and the
nuisance of the dust is thereby abated.
A good supply of wholesome water is a boon in this arid district, but it
must be admitted that Madrid is not too well off in this respect. The
plazas are adorned with trees, and there are public parks, gardens, and
open spaces. The Englishman, the Frenchman, and the German feel at home
in this cosmopolitan centre; and yet everywhere there are the signs of
Spain, the essential characteristics of a Southern people, as shown in
courtly manners, mode of living, amusements, dress, and racial
temperament.
To say that Madrid is an attempted replica of Paris is scarcely a fair
description of the city. Madrid has an aspect and a character of its
own. Its gaieties are tempered with Castilian restraint. The business of
the city is conducted without bustle; the diversions are matters of
importance, and they are keenly enjoyed; but the Madrileño is not so
vivacious and hilarious as the Parisian. Even here, in the hub of modern
Spain, the Spaniard exhibits his placidity and patience. He is not given
to hurry. The express train, which travels at a speed of twenty-five
miles an hour, is fast enough for him, and he will get up in the early
morning to catch it. Yet life in Madrid is decidedly animated, even if
it is the pursuit of pleasure and not of wealth that occupies its
inhabitants.
And yet there is trading and speculating in the city, and merchants
contrive to build up businesses, and shopkeepers thrive, and
occasionally make large fortunes. But the aim is rather to enjoy life
than to “push” and “hustle” in the hope of accumulating dollars by
middle age. In fine, the art of contented enjoyment is discreetly
cultivated in Madrid by all classes. Valdés, in his novel “Froth,” tells
us how the “smart set” and the fashionable idlers of the city pass their
days, and the picture is not unlike the life of our own West End
society. But sentiment is a luxury for which the rich are prepared to
pay a high price. You may see beautifully furnished houses deserted and
allowed to fall into ruin by the owner, because his loved wife or child
drew their last breath there, perhaps years ago.
No, despite the tramcars, the modern air of the streets, and the London
and Parisian fashions in dress, you cannot fail to realise that this is
a Spanish city. Look at the workman, in his canvas blouse and drill
trousers, with the _boina_ on his head and hemp-soled canvas shoes upon
his feet; or the work-girl, with a rose in her hair and a fan in her
hand. These are types of Spain, distinctive in their social ideals,
their garb, and their physiognomy. Now and then, a peasant from the
provinces is seen rubbing shoulders with a grandee, clad in the costume
of Piccadilly. The contrast is sharp; the man about town and the
field-toiler might be natives of two different countries, for the wear
of the peasant is more African than European. His feet are in sandals,
his legs bound with linen, his head tied up in a kerchief, and his body
clothed with white cotton. And around his waist is a broad, gay silk
sash, in whose voluminous folds he conceals his money and his
keen-edged, long-bladed _navaja_.
How antiquated, too, in British eyes is the ox-cart, heavy and
ramshackle, with its squeaking wheels, and pair of bullocks under the
carved wooden yoke! And the mule-teams--the gaunt, bony beasts, in
Moorish-looking harness, with jangling bells around their necks, and the
quaint devices of the clipper upon their coats, attended by swarthy men
in knee-breeches and short jackets, with the peaked Castilian hat upon
their cropped heads--these surely are of the days when Don Quixote rode
on the great grey wastes of La Mancha, accompanied by his loyal Sancho.
Old Madrid is rapidly disappearing. One of its confines was formerly the
Puerta del Sol, which is now almost in the centre of the city. The gate
is no longer in existence, but the place in which it stood still bears
its name, and is the focus of the city’s life. Ancient purlieus were
situated to the east of the royal palace; to-day scarcely any of the
alleys and small squares remain, though here and there you may note a
quaint corner or an old house.
From the Puerta del Sol the chief thoroughfares of Madrid radiate. The
Calle de Alcalá, the Calle del Arenal, the Calle Mayor, and the
fashionable Carrera de San Jerónimo branch from this central square. In
the Puerta del Sol stands the Ministerio de la Gobernación, a large, but
not architecturally notable, edifice. Here also are the chief hotels,
cafés, and restaurants. In the Calle de San Jerónimo are the best shops.
Every one comes to stroll, lounge, and “to take the sun” in this bright,
busy space in the heart of the city. It is the Piccadilly Circus of
Madrid. All the types of Madrid’s population may be seen here from the
bull-fighter to the great legislator. American and English tourists
mingle with the throng; German commercial travellers talk business to
their customers on the seats outside the cafés; and one hears several
languages spoken in the hotels.
In the Buen Retiro and the Parque de Madrid you may study the _beau
monde_ of the city from the shade of the trees during the afternoon
parade. Here there are over two hundred acres of pleasure grounds, more
or less unkempt, but containing a fine avenue, paths, and umbrageous
trees. The upper classes of the city delight in riding and driving. It
is necessary to own a carriage and pair in order to figure in Madrid
society, and the hobby of motoring is on the increase here as elsewhere
in Europe. In former times the Buen Retiro was a royal demesne. Kings of
Spain from Philip II. to Charles III. resorted to this pleasaunce, and a
palace stood in the gardens. Nowadays, the Parque is a public pleasure
resort, used by high and low, and often merry with a carnival or a
battle of flowers. The Royal Palace overlooks the Manzanares, and
dominates the city. It is in form a huge quadrangle, designed by
Sachetti. The views from its windows are wide and impressive, and an
idea of their beauty may be gained from the balcony near the Royal
Armoury. Behind the palace is the Campo del Moro, a lovely garden on the
spot where Ibn Yusuf besieged the old Alcázar. Only the privileged are
permitted to enter this verdant sanctuary.
In an interesting book, “A Year in Spain,” written by a young American
in 1831, there is a picture of the daily life of Madrid which may serve
to illustrate the day’s round among the leisured in the city of to-day:
“The first thing in the morning was to arrange and order everything for
the day. Then each took the little _higada_ of chocolate and
_panecillo_, or small roll, of the delightful bread of Madrid. This meal
is not taken at a table but sitting, standing, or walking from room to
room, and not unfrequently in bed. This over, each went to his peculiar
occupations; the old woman, with her Diarios and Gacetas, to open her
reading-room in the entry; Florencia to ply her needle; and Don Valentin
to play tinker overhead, having first taken out his flint and steel, and
cigar and paper, to prepare his brief cigarillo, which he would smoke,
with a sigh between each puff, after those days of liberty when a cigar
cost two _cuartos_ instead of four. Towards noon he would roll himself
in his _capa parda_--cloak of brown--and go down into the Puerta del
Sol, to learn the thousand rumours which there find daily circulation.
If it were a feast day, the Mass being over, he would go with his
daughter to the Prado. At two the family took its mid-day meal,
consisting, beside some simple dessert, of soup and _puchero_,
well-seasoned with pepper, saffron, and garlic. If it had been summer,
the _siesta_ would have passed in sleep; but it being winter, Don
Valentin took advantage of the short-lived heat to wander forth with a
friend, and in the evening went to his _tertulia_, or friendly reunion.
In summer, one, or even two o’clock, is the hour of retiring; but in
winter it is eleven. Always the last thing before going to bed was to
take a supper of stewed meat and tomatoes, prepared in oil, to sleep
upon.”
Although this is a fair account of the inactive life of Madrid, it must
not be supposed that no business is done in the city. There are
comparatively few manufactures; but there are many shops, and a great
share of the produce of Spain is brought into the capital. Tobacco and
metal ware are the principal manufactures, and there are a large number
of craftsmen who work independently at various trades. Madrid is more a
centre of merchants and shopkeepers than of manufacturers.
George Borrow came to Madrid, on his Bible-distributing mission, and
lodged in the Calle de la Zarza, “a dark, dirty street, which, however,
was close to the Puerta del Sol, the most central point of Madrid.”
Borrow went to see two criminals strangled, and gathered some vivid and
lurid impressions of the life among the manolos, “the rabble of Madrid.”
He declares that the walls of the city enclose “the most extraordinary
vital mass to be found in the entire world,” and claims Madrid as
essentially Spanish. This is true only if we have regard for the fact
that the metropolis of Spain has still a character of its own, and is in
many respects more “European” and modern than Seville, Cadiz, Malaga,
and Granada. In Cordova and Toledo we are reminded at every step of the
influence of the Morisco, but in Madrid we recall the Spain of Charles
V. and of the Bourbons.
Since 1836, Madrid has been a University city. The academy founded at
Alcalá was transferred here at that time, and to-day there are about
eight thousand students. The Real Academia de Bellas Artes was founded
here towards the middle of the eighteenth century. Several fine examples
of the art of Murillo are in the gallery of the Academy, and there are
also works by Ribera, Rubens, Zurbaran, and Alonso Cano. Besides these
institutions there are the Academy of History, the Academy of Science,
the Academy of Medicine, and a number of other learned societies.
The Museum of Modern Art contains only a few paintings of importance,
but there are some notable pictures by Fortuny, and a few pieces of
modern sculpture. The great treasury of art, the Prado Gallery, is fully
described in a separate volume of this series. It is the greatest glory
of Madrid.
The Naval Museum will recall the past maritime supremacy of Spain. In
the National Library there are nearly a million books and a large number
of manuscripts, including the beautiful, illuminated Gothic work dating
from the tenth century, a thirteenth-century Bible, and the Siete
Partidas of Alfonso the Learned. The National Museum of Archæology
contains a very interesting collection of Roman, Gothic, and Moorish
antiquities.
It would be difficult to find a word which would convey a true
impression of a town, but if we were limited to the employment of a
single term to describe Madrid, _rococo_ would suggest itself. The
capital is elegant, fanciful, and yet stately. It does not smile like
Seville, nor frown like Toledo, and yet it is neither sad nor stern.
Granada and Cordova sleep. Madrid never seems to slumber; it is one of
the most restless places upon the earth. It has the dignity of Castile
and the frivolity of Paris; it exhibits the congestion of London in
parts within its gates, but it has no dingy, sunless slums, and few
signs of an ugly indigence.
There is the luxurious Madrid of the aristocracy and the hidalgo, the
Madrid that lives for fashion and pleasure, and there is the Madrid of
the shopkeeper and the lower middle class. Beneath these strata are the
wage-earners, the mechanics and labourers, a frugal and usually
industrious community. There is also the Madrid of a large nondescript
class composed of mendicants, thieves, hawkers, and the rabble and
derelicts of society.
There is the Madrid of the casinos, some intellectual, others merely
social or sporting. The city has its coteries of ardent politicians,
military men, financiers, reformers, freethinkers, revolutionaries, and
its societies of the scientific, learned, and artistic. There is no
specific character which one can point to as typical of Madrid. One
passion is, however, manifest throughout all classes--the love of
bull-fighting. Seville is the school of the torero; Madrid is the scene
of his valour in the arena. The bull-fighter is the idol of the
populace. In the cafés of the Puerta del Sol, or in the ring of the
Plaza de Toros, his figure is one that arouses the deepest interest and
warmest admiration. An eminent jockey in England has his host of
admirers, but he cannot command that universal respect which is accorded
to the _espada_ in Spain. The great bull-fighter is the pet of Madrid
society, the demi-god of the populace, the model of the “sports” of the
city.
It is just as easy to lead the studious, contemplative life in Madrid as
in London, if one elects to be aloof. On the other hand, there is every
opportunity for gaiety, social amenities, and dissipation. Madrid offers
almost every kind of life to its inhabitants. Its 540,000 natives,
forming Borrow’s “extraordinary vital mass,” are quite as motley as the
population of Manchester. Madrid is therefore neither a purely
commercial, fashionable, pleasure-seeking, nor cultured centre. Bilbao
and Barcelona are the busy marts of Spain; Burgos, Salamanca, and
Cordova subsist, as it were, upon the grandeur of the past, and you
wonder how the people live. But Madrid throbs with life, and manifests
the new ideals and views of the country in the domain of politics, in
social reforms, in the arts and sciences, and in the diversions of
society. In the realm of thought, the new Spain has its impulse and its
centre in Madrid. Barcelona has been called “the life of Spain,” and in
the commercial sense this is true. Yet Barcelona boasts of a strong
affinity with France, and a great part of its trade is in the hands of
foreigners. It is from Madrid that one may expect the impetus of a
patriotic, national, and racial advancement, based upon culture and the
recognition of the principles of social liberty.
II
THE HISTORY OF THE CITY
The records of Madrid before the tenth century are extremely scanty, and
the early history of the city is largely conjectural. There is no doubt
that the Moors established a fortress here, and called it Majrît; but
the Romans were in possession before the Arab conquest of the Peninsula,
as certain tablets, discovered in the city by Fernandez de Oviedo, serve
to prove.
Upon the disruption of the Khalifate the town became subject to Toledo.
Whether it was reconquered before or after the fall of that city, by
Alfonso VI., is a vexed question. The credit of taking the town is
assumed by the people of Segovia. At this time (1085) Madrid was
encompassed by a strong wall, stretching from the Moorish Alcázar, now
the Royal Palace, to the Church of our Lady of the Almudena; thence to
the street of Segovia by the Cuesta de los Ciegos to the Puerta de
Moros, and through the Calle Mayor and the Plaza de Oriente to the
Alcázar.