This important forest road traverses the region of the highest
mountains and of the greatest forests, passes through Albertacce,
and by the other villages of the Canton of Calacuccia, and then
proceeds to Francardo by the defile of the Golo.
Porto to Evisa, 13¾ m., by an excellent carriage road wending
through most picturesque mountain scenery. The road, after following
the course of the Porto, crosses the stream Onda, ascends the ravine
of the Cario, which it crosses 3 m. from Porto under the Capo
Polmonaccia, 5627 ft. It now winds its way round little valleys into
the narrow gorge of the Porto between dark red cliffs crowned with
pinnacles. Nine m. from Porto is the ramification of the mule-path
to Chidazzo, and ½ m. farther the ramification to Marignano. The
road, after passing the chapelle S. Cyprien, enters Evisa, pop.
1000; _Inn:_ *H. Carrara; 2770 ft., on a high promontory projecting
in the centre of a mountain-girt basin from the central range
between two deep gulfs hollowed out to a depth of 2000 ft. Behind it
rise pine forests to a broad mountain crest, the pass of the Niolo.
Evisa is admirably situated for excursions. A difficult winding path
leads in 2½ hours down to the great walls of the dark granite ravine
called the Spelunca, at the confluence of the Aïtone with the Porto.
Rambles and drives into the forest of Aïtone, from which
unfortunately the old stately pines have disappeared.
Evisa to Albertacce, 18 m. E. The road traverses the forest of
Aïtone with its vigorous beeches and young pines (_Pinus laricio_),
whose stems are clear of branches from 80 to 100 ft. It is watered
by the Porto and numerous brawling streams; which rush down steep
ravines covered with moss and ferns. In the forest, 3 m. from Evisa,
by this road, is the Maison forestière d'Aïtone, where those
provided with introductions, see p. 41, will find pleasant
headquarters for grand excursions and fishing and botanical
expeditions. 1¼ m. farther is the house of the road menders
(Cantonniers) of Tagnone; where lodging can also be had.
The road having made several detours to get round the heads of
ravines, ascends the Col de Vergio 4803 ft. on the great mountain
chain separating the valley of the Golo from the valley of the
Porto. About 230 ft. above the Col on the Cricche ridge, a little to
the W., is an admirable view of Mt. Tafonato, 7687 ft., almost due
N., with a strange natural tunnel through the summit. From Mt.
Cuculla, 6733 ft., nearly 1¾ hours W. from the Col is a still better
view of Tafonato, and besides a sight of Mt. Cinto, the valley of
the Golo and the mountain range of Monte Rotondo. A little beyond
the summit of the Col is the Maison de Cantonniers de Castellaccio,
whence there is a good view of the forest of Valdoniello, 11,483
acres, containing besides many large pines very fine specimens of
beeches, birches and alders. The felling of the trees in this forest
commenced in 1863.
After arriving at the Maison forestière de Sciattarina 10½ m. from
Evisa, the road passes by some of the finest trees, and descends
into the valley of the Golo; which has its source in a ravine
between Mts. Tafonato and Paglia-Orba.
Four and a half miles farther is the Maison forestière de Popaja,
3468 ft., 15 m. from Evisa and 3 m. from Albertacce. Either this
house or the former, make good quarters for exploring the forest.
Two miles farther is the Ponte Alto, 2740 ft.; where the road
crosses the Golo and enters the pastoral country of the Niolo; now
called the canton of Calacuccia, comprehending the villages of
Albertacce, Calacuccia, Corscia, Lozzi, and Casamaccioli.
From near the bridge a mule path of 1¾ m. ascends to Casamaccioli,
2780 ft., pop. 550; whence the continuation leads in 7 hours to
Corté by the Bocca la Croce, the Melo forest, and the valley of the
Tavignano.
[Headnote: ALBERTACCE.--MONTE CINTO.]
Albertacce, 18 m. from Evisa, 2845 ft., pop. 1000, a dirty village
amidst chestnut and walnut trees; where a good deal of coarse linen
and Corsican cloth is woven. It is one of the places whence the
ascent is made of Monte Cinto, 8892 ft., in 7 hours, and in about 6
for the descent. The path ascends by Calasima, 3610 ft., to the
height of 5251 ft. After this the course extends almost horizontally
in a western direction across ridges, ascending by gradations more
or less fatiguing.
When about 7720 ft., and having climbed nearly 6 hours, a cave is
passed where shelter can be had. The remainder of the ascent is
comparatively easy. The view is grand, Monte Falo, 8363 ft., being
the most prominent object. The ascent cannot be made till the
beginning of summer on account of the snow.
[Headnote: LAKE NINO.]
To Lake Nino, 5598 ft., the source of the Tavignano in 5 hours.
From the lake a mule path chiefly by the left bank of the Tavignano,
leads in 6½ hours to Corté, through magnificent forests.
Around the lake are some shepherds huts; where rest and refreshment
can be had, but no further supply of food can be counted on between
the lake and Corté. The lake, full of fish, lies in a hollow between
high mountains, the highest being Mt. Retto, 6592 at the western
end.
Albertacce to Ponte Francardo, 18 m. N.E. The road follows the
Golo. To the left, a road 1¼ m., leads up to Lozzi, pop. 1050. 2½ m.
from Albertacce is Calacuccia, 2779 ft. pop. 860, and 2 m. farther,
another byeroad ascends to Corscia, 2913 ft., pop. 1000, about 5
hours walk S. from Asco, whence also Mt. Cinto may be ascended by
the valley of the Asco called also Stranciacone. Asco is 5 hours
from Olmi Capella by the Stranciacone, its affluent the Tassinella,
and the Col de Petrella, 6440 ft., to the S. of Mt. Corona, 7032 ft.
Near the chapel of S. Pancrazio, 2786 ft., 4 m. from Albertacce is
the commencement of the Scala di Santa Regina, as this part of road
is called, cut in the face of perpendicular cliffs rising from the
bed of the Golo. About half way are the small chapel and inn of
Santa Regina, and the cave which in former times used to be the
stronghold of robbers.
Thirteen miles from Albertacce is the Pont du Diable, 1083 ft.,
where four roads meet. The road southwards or to the right leads to
Corté, 7 m. S. by Castirla and Soveria, and the Col of Oninanda,
2155 ft., between cliffs rising 1720 ft. above it.
[Headnote: ASCO.]
The road leading northwards extends to the beautiful highway between
Ponte alla Leccia and Calvi; by Castiglione 3¼ m., pop. 550, at the
foot of Mt. Traunato, 7186 ft., Popolasca, 7 m., pop. 200, with
beautiful red granite pinnacles, and Moltifao 12 m., pop. 1050, with
Inn, consisting of a group of villages, clustered on the slopes of
the ridge which separate the valley of the Tartagine from the Asco.
The byeroad S.W. from Moltifao leads up the highly picturesque
valley of the Asco, with magnificent forest trees, to the village of
Asco, pop. 950, a group of hamlets seldom visited, although one of
the best points from which to make the ascent of Mt. Cinto.
[Headnote: PONTE FRANCARDO.]
The road leading 5 m. N.E. by the Golo extends to the Ponte
Francardo, where the rail may be taken. See p. 9 and General Map.
Calvi to Corté or to Bastia.
See General Map.
By Ponte alla Leccia. The finest part of the road is between Calvi
and the Col Colombano. "If I were to permit myself to dwell in
detail on the exquisite variety and charm of the drive, especially
after quitting the _route forestière_ a little E. of the hamlet of
Palasca, I should wander far from the main purpose of this paper.
Valery, Gregorovius, Lear and others have done justice to its
wonderful beauty, and the last truly remarks that 'those who visit
Corsica without going through upper Balagne remain ignorant of one
of its finest divisions,' adding, 'no description can exaggerate the
beauty of this remarkable tract of mountain background and deep
valley, which for richness of foreground, cheerful fertility and
elegance of distance may compete with most Italian landscapes.' The
district is densely peopled--at least twelve large villages are
situated on the road itself between Belgodere and Lumio, a distance
of 21 miles--and picturesque hamlets with lofty campanili perch high
up on the mountain slopes or crown the summits of the lower hills,
whilst everywhere there is the richest culture and most varied
produce, and the charm of the picture is completed by continually
varying views over 'bowery hollows crowned with summer sea.'"--F. F.
Tuckett, Alpine Club.
[Headnote: THE OLIVE TREE.]
miles from CALVI
miles to CORTÉ
{ }{61}
CALVI. The road skirts the coast as far as Lumio, 6 m. from Calvi,
whence it commences to ascend gradually by an admirably engineered road
round the undulations of olive-clad mountains, disclosing at every turn
a different view of the fertile valley of Balagna, extending from the
distant mountains to the blue waters of the Mediterranean. It is said
that there is no district throughout the whole of Italy where the olive
attains such a size as in this valley. Of the tree there are three
varieties, the Sabine (_Sabinacci_), the Saracen (_Saraceni_), and the
Genoese (_Genovesi_), the most common of all, and is ascribed to the
Genoese, who during the government of Agostino Doria compelled the
Corsicans to plant olives in great numbers.
[Map: Corsica Western Central Region]
After passing the picturesquely situated village of Lavatoggio, 9 m.;
the Col Cesario, 1200 ft., 10½ m.; the villages of Feliceto, inn, pop.
640, 16¼ m.; Castor, 24 m.; Speloncato; Ville di Paraso, pop. 750;
Occhiatana, and many more perched on the surrounding mountain tops, or
nestling in nooks among olive and chestnut trees, the diligence arrives
at
[Headnote: BELGODERE.]
{26¾}{34¼}
BELGODERE, 1017 feet, pop. 950, commanding the finest view of this
beautiful valley, its orchards, fields and mountains undulating towards
the blue sea. The diligence just remains long enough to give time to run
through the gate and up the narrow dirty street to the top of the rock
on which the houses are clustered, and there to take a rapid glance at
the lovely scene around and underneath. After the gate, the diligence
halts at the post-office, and then moves on a few yards towards the
stables, where the horses are changed.