[Headnote: COL TEGHIME.]
miles from BASTIA
miles to CALVI
{ }{57}
BASTIA. The road traverses a mountainous country, with scanty
vegetation. As far as St. Florent the prevailing rocks are micaceous and
beyond granitic. Immediately after leaving Bastia the diligence
commences the ascent of the Col de Teghime (1785 feet) in the Serra di
Pigno, discovering as it winds its way upwards, an ever-extending
panorama over the great eastern plain, including Lake Biguglia, and the
Mediterranean with the islands of Elba, Gorgona and Monte Christo. As
the road descends towards the western shore, the enchanting panorama of
the blue gulf of St. Florent, encircled by low reddish rocks, gradually
unfolds itself. It was at this road, made by Count Marboeuf, at which,
it is said, King Bernadotte worked among the other labourers. It passes
the hamlets of Barbaggio and Patrimonio, the Col St. Bernardino 11¼ m.
from Bastia, and the Pont des Strette, and enters the valley of Nebbio,
partly watered by the sluggish Aliso, flowing through a marsh crowded
with oleanders.
[Headnote: ST. FLORENT.]
{14¼}{42¾}
ST. FLORENT, pop. 760. Hôtel de l'Europe, where a hurried breakfast can
be had while the horses are being changed. Close to the village is the
site of the ancient town of Nebbio, occupied now by a few poor houses
and a small church, now a ruin, built in the 12th century. Napoleon
said, "St. Florent has one of the finest situations I have ever seen. It
lies most favourably for commerce, its landing places are safe and its
roads can accommodate large fleets. I should have built there a large
and beautiful city." It was one of the first places to give adherence to
the Bank of Genoa.
The road now for some distance leaves the shore and ascends a range of
barren hills containing slate, limestone and granite. Hardy trees become
more abundant than the chestnut, and the mountains higher and more
imposing, as we approach the little port of
[Headnote: L'ILE ROUSSE.]
{42}{15}
L'ILE ROUSSE, pop. 1610; Hotel Europe. The diligence stops in the
"Place" near the monument to Pascal Paoli, and remains a sufficient time
to enable the traveller to cast a glance over the main features of this
port, founded by Paoli in 1759. The street beyond the "Place" leads by
the market to the harbour and to the long jagged tongue of red sandstone
rocks projecting into the sea, bearing on the extreme point a lighthouse
of the fourth order. Steamer every alternate week to Marseilles. There
is a charming view from the eminence St. Reparata, crowned with a
church, now abandoned.
Inland from L'Ile Rousse is the fertile valley of Balagna, famous for
the size and fertility of its olive trees (p. 20).
{47}{10}
ALGAJOLA, pop. 200. The block of granite which forms the pedestal of the
column in the Place Vendome came from the quarries of this place.
Pillars 65 feet long can be procured from this quarry.
[Headnote: LUMIO.]
{51}{6}
LUMIO, pop. 1100, among orange groves and high cactus hedges. From the
hills here there is a beautiful view of the valley and gulf of Calvi.
Junction here with road to Corté, 55½ miles, south-east, passing through
a charming and picturesque country (see p. 20).
[Headnote: CALVI.]
{57}
CALVI, pop. 2200. _Inns:_ H. France, in the high town; *Colombani, in
the low town, near the dil. office and the wharf. Steamer for Marseilles
every alternate week. This, the nearest port to France, is composed of
the Citadel or Haute Ville and the Port or Basse Ville. The former,
although the residence of the public functionaries, has a dilapidated
and forsaken appearance. A rough road, paved with blocks of granite,
leads up to it and to the ramparts, commanding beautiful and extensive
views. The houses, shops and streets of the Basse Ville are much better
and more cheerful than those in the Citadel. Both are defended by Fort
Mozzello, rising behind the harbour. On the Punta-Revellata is a
lighthouse of the first order, with a fixed light seen 20 miles off.
Eight miles S.E. from Calvi is Calenzana, pop. 2900, with the chapel of
S. Restituta, visited by pilgrims.
Calvi to Ajaccio.
miles from CALVI
miles to AJACCIO
{ }{102}
Distance 102 miles S.E. The road skirts the coast the greater part of
the way. The first village is Galeria, pop. 500--_Inn:_ Seta, 21 miles
S. from Calvi. From Galeria the Route Forestière, No. 8, extends 16
miles eastwards to the Col Capronale, 4495 feet, in the forest of Ometa.
Six miles from Galeria is the entrance to the forest of evergreen oaks
of Treccio, as well as the commencement of the road, 4½ m. long, to the
forest of Perticato by the Col Erbajo, 3½ m., 2090 ft., and the Bocca
Melza, 4½ m. 2500 ft.
Galeria to the Forests of Filosorma.
Grand scenery. Guide necessary. Map, p. 20.
This, the forest road No. 8, has two ramifications. The main line
follows the course of the Fango the whole way, and only becomes a
mule-path when near the Maison de Cantonniers d'Ometa, 14 m. E.
3¾ m. from Galeria a mule-path ramifies from the road to the hamlets
of Tuarelli, Prunicciole and Chiorna. 3 m. farther is the
ramification, 4½ m. S., through the forest of Perticato by the Col
d'Erbajo, 2090 ft., 3½ m. S., and the Bocca Melza, 2500 ft., 4½ m. S.
From the Bocca Melza a very bad path leads 2 m. S. to the hamlet of
Pinito. At the beginning of the above ramification the main road
enters the Ilex forest of Treccio, and leaves it nearly 2 m.
afterwards.
8¾ m. from Galeria is a roadside inn, and 3¼ m. farther the entrance
into the Ilex forest of Ometa.
11¼ m. from Galeria and about 2 m. from the almost unknown valley of
the Lonca, an affluent of the Porto, is the Pont de Lancone, 1083
ft., across the Rocce. From this bridge there is a good view of Mt.
Tafonato, 7687 ft., to the N. E., with its singularly perforated
peak.
13¼ m. is the Grand Cassis d'Ometa, 1680 ft. A little farther the
road becomes a bridle-path, and ascends from 1677 ft. to the Maison
de Cantonniers d'Ometa, 2274 ft., and 1 m. farther is the end of the
forest of Ometa.
15 m. from Galeria is the Grand Cassis de Giargione, 1163 ft., and
about 2 m. farther the summit of Col Capronale, 4495 ft. A little
way beyond, at the Capo Guagnerola, is a beautiful semicircle of
reddish rocks covered with trees at the base. Farther E. by the Golo
this forest road joins the forest road No. 9 to Francardo (p. 18).
Having crossed the Col de Castellaccio, 850 feet, and passed through
the villages of Partinello and Vitriccia, 20 m. from Galeria, we
arrive at
miles from CALVI
miles to AJACCIO
{51}{51}
PORTO (_Inn:_ H. Padoram), occupying a pleasant and sheltered situation
at the head of a fine gulf, with a climate rivalling that of Ajaccio.
Most of the timber from the forests of Valdoniello and Perticato is
shipped here. For Porto to Ponte Francardo, see p. 18.
The road from Porto to La Piana (map, p. 20) affords a delightful
drive, and exhibits good engineering. It is cut for a considerable
distance through the rocks and cliffs and tall jagged peaks, like
cypresses turned into stone, standing on the edge of this savage
coast, parts of which are truly splendid. As the ascent is slowly
continued, charming views disclose themselves, and on each side of
the road the eye discerns some new beauty to dwell upon. At the Col
Geneparo, to the right are the ruins of the castle of the Colonnas
di Leca, rising boldly above the sea and surrounded and protected by
magnificent natural battlements and pinnacles. Six miles from Porto,
after having passed the Cols of Geneparo and Mezzano, both about
1250 feet, the traveller reaches
[Headnote: LA PIANA.]
miles from CALVI
miles to AJACCIO
{58}{44}
LA PIANA, 1587 feet, pop. 1280. _Inn:_ H. France. Delightfully situated,
with a fine sea-view. From the Col San Martino, 1 m. from La Piana and
1630 feet above the sea, the landscape undergoes a rapid change. The
magnificent rocks become parched and arid and the grass as yellow as the
soil where it tries to grow.
[Headnote: CARGÉSÉ.]
{70}{32}
CARGÉSÉ, pop. 1100. _Inn:_ H. de Voyageurs. A large village at the foot
of a hill which slopes down to the sea. It was founded by a colony of
730 Greeks, who, fleeing from the oppression of the Turks, arrived and
settled here, by the permission of the Genoese, in March 1676. For
having refused to aid Paoli in 1755 against the Genoese their villages
were burnt to the ground, and they themselves had to seek refuge in
Ajaccio. After the cession of Corsica to the French in 1769 M. de
Marboeuf had the village and church of Cargese built for the colonists,
when they all returned. Greek is still spoken in the village, and it has
a Greek as well as a Romanist priest.
[Headnote: SAGONA.]
{79}{23}
SAGONA, pop. 100. The port of Vico. It contains a few houses, one of
which is the inn, where beds, bread, eggs, coffee and wine can be had.
On the beach are generally large logs brought down from the forests for
shipment. Junction with road to Vico 9¼ miles E. (see p. 23), and also
with the road extending 19 miles E. to the forest of Aïtone, passing by
the Col Vico, 7½ m., 1607 ft.; Poggio, 12½ m.; the Col Sevi, 3612 ft.,
13¼ m.; Cristinacce, 16½ m.; and the Col Lacciola, 3040 ft. in the
forest. Five and a half miles from Sagona are the cold sulphurous
springs of Caldanella; efficacious as a tonic.
{87½}{14½}
CALCATOGGIO, pop. 670. A poor village on a hill above the road. From
this the diligence shortly after commences the ascent of the Col
Sebastien, 1344 feet, 12 miles from Ajaccio. After the Col Sebastien,
the road having passed over the Col Staggiola, 930 feet, within a short
distance of Appietto, situated on a hill; reaches
AJACCIO, 102 miles south-west from Calvi.
Porto to the Ponte Francardo.