After a long drive under the hot sun, through this wilderness
of fertility, we were glad enough when, at last, we reached the
well-situated and well-built Caltanisetta; where, however, we had again
to look in vain for a tolerable inn. The mules are housed in fine
vaulted stables; the grooms sleep on the heaps of clover which are
intended for the animals' food; but the stranger has to look out for
and to prepare his own lodging. If, by chance, he can hire a room, it
has first of all to be swept out and cleaned. Stools or chairs, there
are none: the only seats to be had are low little forms of hard wood:
tables are not to be thought of.
If you wish to convert these forms into a bedstead, you must send to
a joiner, and hire as many planks as you want. The large leathern
bag, which Hackert lent me, was of good use now, and was, by way of
anticipation, filled with chaff.
But, before all things, provisions must be made for your meals. On
our road we had bought a fowl; our vetturino ran off to purchase some
rice, salt, and spice. As, however, he had never been here before, he
was for a long time in a perplexity for a place to cook our meal in,
as in the post-house itself there was no possibility of doing it. At
last, an old man of the town agreed for a fair recompense to provide
us with a hearth together with fuel, and cooking and table utensils.
While our dinner was cooking, he undertook to guide us round the town,
and finally to the market-house, where the principal inhabitants, after
the ancient fashion, met to talk together, and also to hear what we or
other strangers might say.
We were obliged to talk to them of Frederick the Second, and their
interest in this great king was such that we thought it advisable to
keep back the fact of his death lest our being the bearers of such
untoward news should render us unwelcome to our hosts.
* * * * *
_Caltanisetta, Saturday, April_ 28, 1787.
Geology by way of an appendix! From Girgenti, the muschelkalk rocks;
there also appeared a streak of whitish earth, which afterwards we
accounted for: the older limestone formation again occurs, with gypsum
lying immediately upon it. Broad flat vallies; cultivated almost
up to the top of the hill-side, and often quite over it: the older
limestone mixed with crumbled gypsum. After this appeal's a looser,
yellowish, easily crumbling, limestone; in the arable fields you
distinctly recognize its colour, which often passes into darker, indeed
occasionally violet shades. About half-way the gypsum again recurs. On
it you see, growing in many places, a beautiful violet, almost rosy red
sedum, and on the limestone rocks a beautiful yellow moss.
This very crumbling limestone often shows itself; but most prominently
in the neighbourhood of Caltanisetta, where it lies in strata,
containing a few fossils; there its appearance is reddish, almost of
a vermilion tint, with little of the violet hue, which we formerly
observed near San Martino.
Pebbles of quartz I only observed at a spot about half-way on our
journey, in a valley which, shut in on three sides, is open towards the
east, and consequently also towards the sea.
On the left, the high mountain in the distance, near Camerata, was
remarkable, as also was another looking like a propped up cone. For
the greatest half of the way not a tree was to be seen. The crops
looked glorious, though they were not so high as they were in the
neighbourhood of Girgenti and near the coast; however, as clean as
possible. In the fields of corn, which stretched further than the eye
could reach, not a weed to be seen. At first we saw nothing but green
fields, then some ploughed lands, and lastly, in the moister spots,
little patches of wheat, close to Girgenti. We saw apples and pears
everywhere else; on the heights, and in the vicinity of a few little
villages, some fig-trees.
These thirty miles, together with all that I could distinguish,
either on the right or left of us, was limestone of earlier or later
formations, with gypsum here and there. It is to the crumbling and
elaboration of these three together by the atmosphere that this
district is indebted for its fertility. It must contain but very
little sand, for it scarcely grates between the teeth. A conjecture
of mine with regard to the river Achates must wait for the morrow to
confirm or not.
[Sidenote: Sicily--Castro Giovanni.]
The valleys have a pretty form, and although they are not flat, still
one does not observe any trace of rain gullies; merely a few brooks,
scarcely noticeable, ripple along them for all of them flow direct to
the sea. But little of the red clover is to be seen; the dwarf palm
also disappears here, as well as all the other flowers and shrubs
of the south-western side of the island. The thistles are permitted
to take possession of nothing but the way-sides, every other spot
is sacred to Ceres. Moreover, this region has a great similarity
to the hilly and fertile parts of Germany--for instance, the tract
between Erfurt and Gotha, especially when you look out for points of
resemblance. Very many things must combine together in order to make
Sicily one of the most fertile regions of the world.
On our whole tour, we have seen but few horses; ploughing is carried
on with oxen; and a law exists which forbids the killing of cows and
calves. Goats, asses, and mules, we met in abundance. The horses are
mostly dapple grey, with black feet and manes; the stables are very
splendid, with well-paved and vaulted stalls. For beans and flax the
land is dressed with dung; the other crops are then grown after this
early one has been gathered in. Green barley in the ear, done up in
bundles, and red clover, in like fashion, art: offered for sale to the
traveller as he goes along.
On the hill above Caltanisetta, I found a hard limestone with fossils:
the larger shells lay lowermost, the smaller above them. In the
pavement of this little town, we noticed a limestone with pectinites.
* * * * *
_April_ 28, 1787.
Behind Caltanisetta, the hill subsided suddenly into many little
valleys, all of which pour their streams into the river Salso. The
soil here is reddish and very loamy; much of it unworked; what was in
cultivation bore tolerably good crops, though inferior to what we had
elsewhere seen.
* * * * *
_Castro Giovanni, Sunday, April_ 29, 1787.
To-day we had to observe still greater fertility and want of
population. Heavy rains had fallen, which made travelling anything but
pleasant, as we had to pass through many streams, which were swollen
and rapid. At the Salso, where one looks round in vain for a bridge,
I was struck with a very singular arrangement for passing the ford.
Strong powerful men were waiting at the river-side; of these two placed
themselves on each side of a mule, and conducted him, rider, baggage
and all, through the deep part of the river, till they reach a great
bank of gravel in the middle; when the whole of the travellers have
arrived at this spot, they are again conducted in the same manner
through the second arm of the stream, while the fellows, by pushing and
shoving, keep the animal in the right tract, and support him against
the current.
On the water-side I observed bushes, which, however, do not spread far
into the land. The Salso washes down rubbles of granite--a transition
of the gneiss, and marble, both breccian and also of a single colour.
We now saw before us the isolated mountain ridge on which Castro
Giovanni is situate, and which imparts to the country about it a grave
and singular character. As we rode up the long road which traverses
its side, we found that the rock consisted of muschelkalk; large
calcined shells being huddled together in heaps. You do not see Castro
Giovanni until you reach the very summit of the ridge, for it lies on
the northern declivity of the mountain. The singular little town, with
its tower, and the village of Caltaseibetta, at a little distance on
the left, stand, as it were, solemnly gazing at each other. In the
plains we saw the bean in full blossom; but who is there that could
take pleasure in such a sight? The roads here were horrible, and the
more so because they once were paved, and it rained incessantly. The
ancient _Enna_ received us most inhospitably,--a room with a paved
floor, with shutters and no window, so that we must either sit in
darkness or be again exposed to the beating rain, from which we had
thought to escape by putting up here. Some relics of our travelling
provisions were greedily devoured; and the night passed most miserably.
We made a solemn vow never to direct our course again towards never so
mythological a name.
* * * * *
_Monday, April_ 30, 1787.
The road leading from Castro Giovanni was so rough and bad, that we
were obliged to lead our horses down it. The sky before us was covered
with thick and low clouds, while high above them a singular phenomenon
was observable. It was striped white and grey, and seemed to be
something corporeal; but how could aught corporeal get into the sky?
Our guide enlightened us. This subject of our amazement was a side of
Mount Ætna, which appeared through the opening clouds. Snow alternating
with the crags formed the stripes--it was not, however, the highest
peak that we saw.
[Sidenote: Sicily--Castro Giovanni.]
The precipitous rock on which the ancient Enna was situated lay behind
us; and we drove through long, long, lonely valleys: there they lay,
uncultivated and uninhabited, abandoned to the browsing cattle, which
we observed were of a beautiful brown colour, not large, short-horned,
clean-limbed, lank and lively as deer. These poor cattle had pasturage
enough, but it was greatly encroached upon, and in some parts wholly
taken possession of by the thistles. These plants have here the finest
opportunities possible to disperse their seed and to propagate their
kind; they take up an incredible space, which would make pasture land
enough for two large estates. As they are not perennial, they might, if
mowed down before flowering, be easily eradicated.
However, after having thus seriously meditated an agricultural
campaign against the thistles, I must, to my shame, admit they are
not altogether useless. At a lonely farm-house where we pulled up to
bait, there were also stopping two Sicilian noblemen, who on account of
some process were riding straight across the country to Palermo. With
amazement we saw both these grave personages standing before a patch of
these thistles, and with their pocket-knives cutting off the tops of
the tall shoots. Then holding their prickly booty by the tips of their
fingers, they pealed off the rind, and devoured the inner part with
great satisfaction. In this way they occupied themselves a considerable
time, while we were refreshing ourselves with wine (this time it was
unmixed) and bread. The vetturino prepared for us some of this marrow
of thistle stalks, and assured us that it was a wholesome, cooling
food; it suited our taste, however, as little as the raw cabbage at
Segeste.
* * * * *
_On the Road, April_ 30, 1787.
Having reached the valley through which the rivulet of S. Pacio winds
its way, we found the district consisting of a reddish, black, and
crumbly limestone: many brooks, a very white soil, a beautiful valley,
which the rivulet made extremely agreeable. The well compounded loamy
soil is in some places twenty feet deep, and for the most part of
similar quality throughout. The crops looked beautiful; but some of
them were not very clean, and all of them very backward as compared
with those on the southern side. Here there are the same little
dwellings--and not a tree, as was the case immediately after leaving
Castro Giovanni. On the banks of the river plenty of pasture land, but
sadly confined by vast masses of thistles. In the gravel of the river
we again found quartz, both simple and breccian.
Molimenti, quite a new village, wisely built in the centre of beautiful
fields, and on the banks of the rivulet S. Paolo. The wheat in its
neighbourhood was unrivalled: it will be ready to cut as early as by
the 20th May. In the whole district I could not discover as yet a trace
of volcanic influence: even the stream brings down no pebbles of that
character. The soil is well mixed, heavy rather than light, and has
on the whole a coffee-brown and slightly violet hue. All the hills on
the left, which inclose the stream, are limestone, whose varieties I
had no opportunity of observing. They, however, as they crumble under
the influence of the weather, are evidently the causes of the great
fertility that marks the district throughout.
* * * * *
_Tuesday, May_ 1, 1787.
Through a valley which, although by nature it was throughout alike
destined to fertility, was unequally cultivated, we rode along very
moodily because among so many prominent and irregular shapes not one
appeared to suit our artistic designs. Kniep had sketched a highly
interesting outline, but because the foreground and intermediate space
was thoroughly revolting, he had with a pleasant joke appended to it
a foreground of Poussin's, which cost him nothing. However, they made
together a very pretty picture. How many "picturesque tours" in all
probability contain half truths of the like kind.
Our courier, with the view of soothing our grumbling humour, promised
us a good inn for the evening. And in fact, he brought us to an hotel
which had been built but a few years since on the road side, and being
at a considerable distance from Catania, cannot but be right welcome
to all travellers. Por our part, finding ourselves, after twelve days
of discomfort, in a tolerable apartment, we were right glad to be
so much at our ease again. But we were surprised at an inscription
pencilled on the wall in an English character. The following was its
purport:--"Traveller, whoever you may be, be on your guard against the
inn known in Catania by the sign of the Golden Lion; it is better to
fall into the claws of all the Cyclops, Sirens, and Scylla together
than to go there." Although we at once supposed that the good-meaning
counsellor had no doubt by his mythological figures magnified the
danger, we nevertheless determined to keep out of the reach of the
"Golden Lion," which was thus proclaimed to us to be so savage a beast.
When, therefore, our muleteer demanded of us where we would wish to put
up in Catania, we answered anywhere but at the Golden Lion! Whereupon
he ventured to recommend us to stop where he put up his beasts, only he
said we should have to provide for ourselves just as we had hitherto
done.
* * * * *
Towards Hybla Major pebbles of lava present themselves, which the
stream brings down from the north. Over the ferry you find limestone,
which contains all sorts of rubble, hornstone, lava, and calx; and
then hardened volcanic ashes, covered over with calcareous tufa. The
hills of mixed gravel continue till you come near to Catania, at and
beyond which place you find the lava flux, from Ætna. You leave on the
left what looks like a crater. (Just under Molimenti the peasants were
pulling up the flax.) Nature loves a motly garb; and here you may see
how she contrives gaily to deck out the dark bluish-gray lava of the
mountains. A few seasons bring over it a moss of a high yellow colour,
upon which a beautiful red sedum grows luxuriantly, and some other
lovely violet flowers. The plantations of Cactus and the vine-rows
bespeak a careful cultivation. Now immense streams of lava begin to hem
us in. Motta is a beautiful and striking rock. The beans are like very
high shrubs. The fields vary very much in their geological features;
now very gravelly, now better mixed.
[Sidenote: Sicily--Molimenti.]
The vetturino, who probably had not for a long time seen the vegetation
of the south-eastern side of the island, burst into loud exclamations
about the beauty of the crops, and with self complaisant patriotism
demanded of us, if we ever saw such in our own country? Here, however,
every thing is sacrificed to them; you see few if any trees. But the
sight that most pleased us was a young girl, of a splendid but slight
form, who, evidently an old acquaintance, kept up with the mule of our
vetturino, chatting the while, and spinning away with all the elegance
possible.
Now yellow tints begin to predominate in the flowers. Towards
Misterbianco the cactuses are again found in the hedges; but hedges
entirely of this strangely grown plant become, as you approach Catania,
more and more general, and are even still more beautiful.
* * * * *
_Catania, May_ 2, 1787.
In our auberge we found ourselves, we must confess, most uncomfortable.
The meal, such as our muleteer could alone furnish, was none of
the best. A fowl stewed in rice would have been tolerable, but for
an immoderate spice of saffron, which made it not more yellow than
disagreeable. The most abominable of bad beds had almost driven me a
second time to bring out Hackert's leathern bag, and we therefore next
morning spoke on this subject to our obliging host. He expressed his
regret that it was not in his power to provide better for us; "but,"
he said, "there is, above there, a house where strangers are well
entertained, and have every reason to be satisfied."
Saying this, he pointed to a large corner house, of which the part
that was turned towards us seemed to promise well. We immediately
hurried over to it, and found a very testy personage, who declared
himself to be a waiter, and who in the absence of the landlord showed
us an excellent bedroom with a sitting-room adjoining, and assured us
at the same time that we should be well attended to. Without delay we
demanded, according to our practice, what was the charge for dinner,
for wine, for luncheon, and other particulars. The answers were all
fair; and we hastily had our trifles brought over to the house, and
arranged them in the spacious and gilded buffets. For the first time
since we left Palermo, Kniep found an opportunity to spread out his
portfolio, and to arrange his drawings, as I did my notes. Then
delighted with our fine room, we stept out on the balcony of the
sitting-room to enjoy the view. When we got tired of looking at and
extolling the prospect, we turned to enter our apartment, and commence
our occupations, when, lo! over our head was a large golden lion,
regarding us with a most threatening aspect. Quite serious we looked
for a moment in one another's face, then smiled, and laughed outright.
From this moment, however, we began to look around us to see whether we
could discover any of these Homeric goblins.
[Sidenote: Sicily--Catania.]
Nothing of the kind was to be seen. On the contrary, we found in
the sitting-room a pretty young woman, who was playing about with a
child from two to three years old, who stood suddenly still on being
hastily scolded by the vice-landlord:--"You must take yourself off!" he
testily exclaimed; "you have no business here." "It is very hard," she
rejoined, "that you drive me away; the child is scarcely to be pacified
in the house when you are away, and the signori will allow me, at least
while you are present, to keep the child quiet." The husband made no
reply, but proceeded to drive her away; the child at the door cried
most miserably, and at last we did most heartily wish that the pretty
young madam had stayed.
Warned by the Englishman, it was no art to see through the comedy: we
played the _Neulinge_, the _Unschuldige_--he, however, with his very
loving paternal feelings, prevailed very well. The child in fact was
evidently very fond of him--and probably the seeming mother had pinched
him at the door to make him cry so.
And so, too, with the greatest innocence possible she came and stayed
with him as the man went out to deliver for us a letter of introduction
to the Domestic Chaplain of Prince Biscari. She played and toyed with
the child till he came back bringing word from the Abbé that he would
come himself and talk with us on the matter.
* * * * *
_Catania, Thursday, May_ 3, 1787.
The Abbé, who yesterday evening came and paid his respects to us,
appeared this morning in good time, and conducted us to the palace,
which is of one story, and built on a tolerably high socle. First of
all we visited the museum, where there is a large collection of marble
and bronze figures, vases, and all sorts of such like antiques. Here
we had once more an opportunity of enlarging our knowledge; and the
trunk of a Jupiter, which I was already acquainted with through a cast
in Tischbein's studio, particularly ravished me. It possesses merits
far higher than I am able to estimate. An inmate of the house gave
us all necessary historical information. After this we passed into a
spacious and lofty saloon. The many chairs around and against the walls
indicated that a numerous company was often assembled here. We seated
ourselves in hope of a favourable reception. Soon afterwards two ladies
entered and walked several times up and down the room. From time to
time they spoke to each other. When they observed us, the Abbé rose,
and I did the same, and we both bowed. I asked, Who are they? and I
learned that the younger lady was daughter of the Prince, but the elder
a noble lady of Catania. We resumed our seats, while they continued to
walk up and down as people do in a market-place.
We were now conducted to the Prince, who (as I had been already given
to understand) honoured me with a singular mark of his confidence in
showing me his collection of coins, since, by such acts of kindness,
both his father and himself had lost many a rare specimen; and so
his general good nature, and wish to oblige, had been naturally
much contracted. On this occasion I probably appeared a little
better informed than formerly, for I had learned something from the
examination of Prince Torremuzza's collection. I again contrived
to enlarge my knowledge, being greatly helped by Winckelmann's
never-failing clues, which safely led the way through all the different
epochs of art. The Prince, who was well informed in all these matters,
when he saw that he had before him not a connoisseur, but an attentive
amateur, willingly informed me of every particular that I found it
necessary to ask about.
After having given to these matters, considerable, but still far less
time than they deserved, we were on the point of taking our leave,
when the Prince conducted us to the Princess, his mother, in whose
apartments the smaller works of art are to be seen.
We found a venerable, naturally noble lady, who received us with the
words, "Pray look round my room, gentlemen; here you still see all that
my dear departed husband collected and arranged for me. This I owe to
the affection of my son, who not only allows me still to reside in his
best room, but has even forbidden the least thing to be taken away
or removed that his late father purchased for me, and chose a place
for. Thus I enjoy a double pleasure; not only have I been able these
many years to live in my usual ways and habits, but also I have, as
formerly, the opportunity to see and form the acquaintance of those
worthy strangers who come hither from widely distant places to examine
our treasures."
[Sidenote: Catania-The Prince Biscani's Palace.]
She thereupon, with her own hands, opened for us the glass-case
in which the works in amber were preserved. The Sicilian amber is
distinguished from the northern, by its passing from the transparent
and non-transparent,--from the wax and the honey-coloured,--through all
possible shades of a deep yellow, to the most beautiful hyacinthian
red. In the case there were urns, cups, and other things, and for
executing which large pieces of a marvellous size must have been
necessary; for such objects, and also for cut-shells, such as are
executed at Trapani, and also for exquisitely manufactured articles in
ivory, the Princess had an especial taste, and about some of them she
had amusing stories to tell. The Prince called our attention to those
of more solid value among them; and so several hours slipped away--not,
however, without either amusement or edification.