some hills of gravel. Between precipitous and barren limestone
mountains, lie wide undulating valleys, everywhere tilled, with
scarcely a tree to be seen. The gravelly hills are full of large
bolders, giving signs of ancient inundations of the sea. The soil is
better mixed and lighter than any we have hitherto seen, in consequence
of its containing some sand. Leaving Salemi about fifteen miles to our
right, we came upon hills of gypsum, lying on the limestone. The soil
appears, as we proceed, to be better and more richly compounded. In
the distance you catch a peep of the Western sea. In the foreground
the country is everywhere hilly. We found the fig-trees just budding,
but what most excited our delight and wonder was endless masses of
flowers, which had encroached on the broad road, and flourish in large
variegated patches. Closely bordering on each other, the several sorts,
nevertheless, keep themselves apart and recur at regular intervals. The
most beautiful convolvuluses, hibiscuses, and mallows, various kinds
of trefoil, here and there the garlic, and the galega-gestrauche. On
horseback you may ride through this varied tapestry, by following the
numberless and ever-crossing narrow paths which run through it. Here
and there you see feeding fine red-brown cattle, very clean-limbed and
with short horns of an extremely elegant form.
The mountains to the north-east stand all in a line. A single peak,
Cuniglione, rises boldly from the midst of them. The gravelly hills
have but few streams; very little rain seems to fall here; we did not
find a single gully giving evidence of having ever overflowed.
In the night I met with a singular incident. Quite worn out, we had
thrown ourselves on our beds in anything but a very elegant room. In
the middle of the night I saw above me a most agreeable phenomenon--a
star brighter, I think, than I ever saw one before. Just, however, as I
began to take courage at a sight which was of good omen, my patron star
suddenly disappeared, and left me in darkness again. At daybreak, I at
last discovered the cause of the marvel: there was a hole in the roof,
and at the moment of my vision one of the brightest stars must have
been crossing my meridian. This purely natural phenomenon was, however,
interpreted by us travellers as highly favourable.
* * * * *
[Sidenote: Sicily--Sciacca.]
_Sciacca, April_ 22, 1787.
The road hither, which runs over nothing but gravelly hills, has been
mineralogically uninteresting. The traveller here reaches the shore
from which, at different points, bold limestone rocks rise suddenly.
All the flat land is extremely fertile; barley and oats in the finest
condition; the salsola-kali is here cultivated; the aloes since
yesterday, and the day before, have shot forth their tall spikes. The
same numerous varieties of the trefoil still attended us. At last we
came on a little wood, thick with brushwood, the tall trees standing
very wide apart;--the cork-tree at last!
* * * * *
_Girgenti, April_ 23, 1787. _Evening._
From Sciacca to this place is a hard day's ride. We examined the baths
at the last named place. A hot stream burst from the rock with a strong
smell of sulphur; the water had a strong saline flavour, but it was
not at all thick. May not the sulphureous exhalation be formed at the
moment of its breaking from the rock? A little higher is a spring,
quite cool and without smell; right above is the monastery, where are
the vapour baths; a thick mist rises above it into the pure air.
The shingles on the shore are nothing but limestone: the quartz and
hornstone have wholly disappeared. I have examined all the little
streams: the Calta Bellota, and the Maccasoli, carry down with them
nothing but limestone; the Platani, a yellow marble and flint, the
invariable companion of this nobler calcareous formation. A few pieces
of lava excited my attention, but I saw nothing in this country that
indicated the presence of volcanic action. I supposed, therefore, they
must be fragments of millstones, or of pieces brought from a distance
for some such use or other. Near Monte Allegro, the stone is all gypsum
and selenite; whole rocks of these occurring before and between the
limestone. The wonderful strata of Calta Bellota!
* * * * *
_Girgenti, Tuesday, April_ 24, 1787.
Such a glorious spring view as we enjoyed at sunset to-day will most
assuredly never meet our eyes again in one life-time. Modern Girgenti
stands on the lofty site of the ancient fortifications, an extent
sufficient for the present population. From our window we looked over
the broad but gentle declivity, on which stood the ancient town, which
is now entirely covered with gardens and vineyards, beneath whose
verdure it would be long before one thought of looking for the quarters
of an ancient city. However, towards the southern end of this green
and flourishing spot the Temple of Concord rears itself, while on
the east are a few remains of the Temple of Juno. Other ruins of some
ancient buildings, which lying in a straight line with those already
spoken of, are scarcely noticed by the eye from above, while it hurries
over them southwards to the shore, or ranges over the level country,
which reaches at least seven miles from the sea-mark. To-day we were
obliged to deny ourselves the pleasure of a stroll among the trees and
the wild rockets and over this region, so green, so flourishing, and so
full of promise for the husbandman, because our guide, (a good-natured
little parish priest,) begged us before all things to devote this day
to the town.
[Sidenote: Sicily-Girgenti.]
He first showed us the well-built streets; then he took us to the
higher points, from which the view, gaining both in extent and breadth,
was still more glorious, and lastly, for an artistic treat, conducted
us to the principal church. In it there is an ancient sarcophagus in
good preservation. The fact of its being used for the altar has rescued
from destruction the sculptures on it--Hippolytus attended by his
hunting companions and horses, has just been stopped by Phædra's nurse,
who wishes to deliver him a letter. As in this piece the principal
object was to exhibit beautiful youthful forms, the old woman as a mere
subordinate personage, is represented very little and almost dwarfish,
in order not to disturb the intended effect. Of all the alto-relivoes I
have ever seen, I do not, I think, remember one more glorious, and at
the same time, so well preserved as this. Until I meet with a better it
must pass with me as a specimen of the most graceful period of Grecian
art.
We were carried back to still earlier periods of art by the examination
of a costly vase of considerable size, and in excellent condition.
Moreover, many relics of ancient architecture appeared worked up here
and there in the walls of the modern church.
As there is no inn or hotel in this place, a kind and worthy family
made room for us, and gave up for our accommodation an alcove belonging
to a large room. A green curtain separated us and our baggage from
the members of the family, who, in the more spacious apartment were
employed in preparing macaroni, of the whitest and smallest kind. I
sat down by the side of the pretty children, and caused the whole
process to be explained to me, and was informed that it is prepared
from the finest and hardest wheat, called _Grano forte._ That sort
they also told me fetches the highest price, which, after being formed
into long pipes, is twisted into coils, and by the tip of the fair
artiste's fingers made to assume a serpentine shape. The preparation
is chiefly by the hand; machines and moulds are very little used. They
also prepared for us a dish of the most excellent macaroni, regretting,
however, that at that moment they had not even a single dish of the
very best kind, which could not be made out of Girgenti, nor indeed,
out of their house. What they did dress for me appeared to me to be
unequalled in whiteness and tenderness.
By leading us once more to the heights and to the most glorious points
of view, our guide contrived to appease the restlessness which during
the evening kept us constantly out of doors. As we took a survey of the
whole neighbourhood, he pointed out all the remarkable objects which on
the morrow we had proposed to examine more nearly.
* * * * *
_Girgenti, Wednesday, April_ 25, 1787.
With sun rise we took our way towards the plain, while at every step
the surrounding scenery assumed a still more picturesque appearance.
With the consciousness that it was for our advantage, the little man
led us, without stopping, right across the rich vegetation over a
thousand little spots, each of which might have furnished the locale
for an idyllic scene. To this variety of scene the unevenness of the
country greatly contributed, which undulated as it passed over hidden
ruins, which probably were very quickly covered with fertile soil, as
the ancient buildings consisted of a light muscheltufa. At last we
arrived at the eastern end of the city, where are the ruins of the
Temple of Juno, of which, every year must have accelerated the decay,
as the air and weather are constantly fretting the soft stone of which
it is built. To-day we only devoted a cursory examination to it, but
Kniep has already chosen the points from which to sketch it to-morrow.
The temple stands on a rock which is now much worn by the weather. From
this point the city walls stretched in a straight line eastwards, to a
bed of limestone, that rises perpendicular from the level strand, which
the sea has abandoned, after having shaped these rocks and long washed
the foot of them. Hewn partly out of the native rock, and partly built
of it were the walls of ancient Agrigentum, from behind which towered
a line of temples. No wonder, then, if from the sea the lower, middle,
and upper tows, presented together a most striking aspect.
[Sidenote: Sicily-Girgenti.]
The Temple of Concord has withstood so many centuries; its light style
of architecture closely approximates it to our present standard of the
beautiful and tasteful; so that as compared with that of Pæstum, it is,
as it were, the shape of a god to that of a gigantic figure. I will
not give utterance to my regrets that the recent praiseworthy design
of restoring this monument should have been so tastelessly carried
out, that the gaps and defects are actually filled up with a dazzling
white gypsum. In consequence this monument of ancient art stands before
the eye, in a certain sense, dilapidated and disfigured. How easy it
would have been to give the gypsum the same tint as the weather-eaten
stone of the rest of the building? In truth, when one looks at the
muschelkalk of which the walls and columns are composed, and sees how
easily it crumbles away, one's only surprise is that they have lasted
so long. But the builders reckoning on a posterity of similar religion
to themselves, had taken precautions against it. One observes on the
pillars the remains of a fine plaster, which would at once please the
eye and ensure durability.
Our next halt was at the ruins of the Temple of Jupiter. Like the bones
of a gigantic skeleton, they are scattered over a large space, having
several small cottages interspersed among them, and being intersected
by hedgerows, while amidst them plants are growing of different sizes.
From this pile of ruins all the carved stone has disappeared, except
an enormous triglyph, and a part of a round pilaster of corresponding
proportions. I attempted to span it with out-stretched arms, but
could not reach round it. Of the fluting of the column, however, some
idea may be formed from the fact that, standing in it as in a niche,
I just filled it up and touched it on both sides with my shoulders.
Two-and-twenty men arranged in a circle would give nearly the periphery
of such a column. We went away with the disagreeable feeling that there
was nothing here to tempt the draughtsman.
On the other hand, the Temple of Hercules still showed some traces of
its former symmetry. The pillars of the peristyles, which ran along the
temple on its upper and lower side, lie parallel, as if they had all
fallen together, and at once, from north to south--the one row lying
up the hill, the other down it. The hill may have possibly been formed
by the ruined cells or shrines. The columns, held together in all
probability by the architrave, fell all at once being suddenly thrown
down, perhaps by a violent wind, and lie in regular order, only broken
into the pieces of which they were originally composed. Kniep was
already, in imagination, preparing his pencil for an accurate sketch of
this singular phenomenon.
The Temple of Æsculapius, lying beneath the shade of a most beautiful
carob-tree, and closely built upon by some mean farm-buildings,
presented, to our minds, a most agreeable aspect.
Next we went down to Theron's tomb, and were delighted with the actual
sight of this monument, of which we had seen so many models, especially
as it served for the foreground of a most rare prospect; for from west
to east we looked on the line of rocks on which lay the fragments of
the walls, while through the gaps of the latter, and over them, the
remains of the temples were visible.
This view has, under Hackert's skilful hand, furnished a most
delightful picture. Kniep too, will not omit to make a sketch of it.
* * * * *
_Girgenti, April_ 26, 1787.
When I awoke, Kniep was all ready to start on his artistic journey,
with a boy to show him the way, and to carry his portfolio. I enjoyed
this most glorious morning at the window, with my secret and silent,
but not dumb friend by my side. A devout reverence has hitherto kept
me from mentioning the name of the Mentor whom, from time to time,
I have looked up and listened to. It is the excellent Von Reidesel,
whose little volume I carry about with me in my bosom, like a breviary
or talisman. At all times I have had great pleasure in looking up to
those whom I know to be possessed of what I am most wanting in myself.
And this is exactly the case here. A steady purpose, a fixed object,
direct and appropriate means, due preparation and store of knowledge,
an intimate connexion with a masterly teacher--he studied under
Winckelmann--all these advantages I am devoid of, as well as of all
that follows from them. And yet I cannot feel angry with myself that
I am obliged to gain by indirect arts and means, and to seize at once
what my previous existence has refused to grant me gradually in the
ordinary way. Oh that this worthy person could, at this moment, in the
midst of his bustling world, be sensible of the gratitude with which a
traveller in his footsteps celebrates his merits, in that beautiful but
solitary spot, which had so many charms for him, as to induce the wish
that he might end his days there.
Oblitusque _suorum_ obliviscendus et illis.
With my guide, the little parson, I now retraced our yesterday's walk,
observing the objects from several points, and every now and then
taking a peep at my industrious friend.
[Sidenote: Sicily-Girgenti.]
My guide called my attention to a beautiful institution of the once
flourishing city. In the rocks and masses of masonry, which stand
for bulwarks of the ancient Agrigentum, are found graves, probably
intended for the resting place of the brave and good. Where could they
more fitly have been buried, for the sake of their own glory, or for
perpetuating a vivid emulation of their great and good deeds!
In the space between the walls and the sea there are still standing
the remains of an ancient temple, which are preserved as a Christian
chapel. Here also are found round pilasters, worked up with, and
beautifully united to the square blocks of the wall, so as to produce
an agreeable effect to the eye. One fancies that one here discerns the
very spot where the Doric style reached its perfection.
Many an insignificant monument of antiquity was cursorily glanced at;
but more attention was paid to the modern way of keeping the corn under
the earth in great vaulted chambers. Of the civil and ecclesiastical
condition of the city, my guide gave me much information; but I heard
of nothing that showed any signs of improvement. The conversation
suited well with the ruins, which the elements are still preying upon.
* * * * *
The strata of the muschelkalk all incline towards the sea,--banks of
rock strangely eaten away from beneath and behind, while the upper and
front portions still remain, looking like pendant fringes.
* * * * *
Great hatred is here felt against the French, because they have made
peace with the people of Barbary. They are even charged with betraying
the Christians to the infidels.
* * * * *
From the sea there was an ancient gateway, which was cut through the
solid rock. The foundation of the walls, which are still standing,
rests as it were on steps in the rocks.
Our cicerone is Don Michaele Vella, antiquary, residing at the house of
Signore Cerio, near S. Maria's.
* * * * *
In planting the marsh-beans they proceed in the following way:--Holes
are made in the earth at a convenient distance from each other, and a
handful of dung is thrown in. A shower is then waited for, after which
they put in the seed. The people here burn the bean-haulms, and wash
their linen with the ashes. They never make use of soap. The outer
shells of almonds are likewise burnt and used instead of soda. They
first of all wash the clothes with pure water, and then with the ley of
these ashes.
* * * * *
The succession of their crops is, beans, wheat, and tumenia. By beans
I mean the marsh-bean. Their wheat is wonderfully fine. Tumenia, of
which the name is derived from bimenia or trimenia, is a glorious gift
of Ceres. It is a species of spring wheat, which is matured within
three months. It is sown at different times, from the first of January
to June, so that for a certain period there is always a crop ripe. It
requires neither much rain nor great warmth. At first it has a very
delicate leaf, but in its growth it soon overtakes the wheat, and at
last is very strong. Wheat is sown in October and November, and ripens
in June. The barley sown in November is ripe by the first of June. Near
the coast it ripens sooner, but on the mountains more slowly.
* * * * *
The flax is already ripe. The acanthus has unrolled its splendid
leaves. The _Salsala fruticosa_ is growing luxuriantly.
On the uncultivated hills grows a rich sainfoin. It is farmed out, and
then carried into the town in small bundles. In the same way the oats
which are weeded out of the wheat, are done up for sale.
For the sake of irrigation, they make very pretty divisions with
edgings in the plots where they plant their cabbages.
The figs have put forth all their leaves, and the fruit is set. They
are generally ripe by midsummer, when the tree sets its fruit again.
The almond trees are well loaded; a sheltered carob-tree has produced
numberless pods. The grapes for the Table are trained on arbours
supported by high props. Melons set in March and ripen by June. Among
the ruins of Jupiter's temple they thrive vigorously without a trace of
moisture.
Our vetturino eats with, great zest raw artichokes and the
turnip-cabbage. However, it is necessary to add that they are tenderer
and more delicate than with us. When you walk through the fields the
farmers allow you to take as many of the young beans, or other crops,
as you like.
* * * * *
As my attention was caught by some hard black stones, which looked like
lava, my antiquary observed that they were from Ætna; and that at the
harbour, or rather landing-place, many similar ones were to be found.
* * * * *
Of birds there are not many kinds native here: quails are the most
common. The birds of passage are, nightingales, larks, and swallows.
The Rinnine--small black birds, which come from the Levant--hatch their
young in Sicily, and then go further or retire. The Ridene come in
December or January, and after alighting and resting awhile on Acragas,
take their flight towards the mountains.
* * * * *
Of the vase in the cathedral one word more. The figures in relief on
it are, a hero in full armour, seemingly a stranger, before an old man
whom a crown and sceptre, point out to be a king. Behind the latter
stands a female figure, with her head slightly inclined, and her hand
under her chin--a posture indicating thoughtful attention. Right
opposite to her, and behind the hero, is an old man who also wears a
crown, and is speaking to a man armed with a spear, probably one of the
body-guard of the former royal personage. This old man would appear to
have introduced the hero, and to be saying to the guard, "Just let him
speak to the king; he is a brave man."
[Sidenote: Sicily-Girgenti.]
Red seems to be the ground of the vase, the black to be laid on. It is
only in the female's robe that red seems to be laid on the black.
* * * * *
_Girgenti, Friday, April_ 27, 1787.
If Kniep is to finish all he proposes, he must sketch away incessantly.
In the meantime I walk about with my little antiquary. We took a walk
towards the sea, from which Agrigentum must, as the ancients asserted,
have looked extremely well. Our view was turned to the billowy expanse,
and my guide called my attention to a broad streak of clouds towards
the south, which, like a ridge of hills, seemed to rest on the line
of the horizon. "This," he said, "indicated the coast of Africa."
About the same time another phenomenon struck me as singular. It was a
rainbow in a light cloud, which, resting with one limb on Sicily, threw
its arch high against the clear sky, and appeared to rest with the
other on the sea. Beautifully tinted by the setting sun, and shewing
but little movement, it was to the eye an object as rare as it was
agreeable. This bow, I was assured, was exactly in the direction of
Malta, and in all probability its other limb rested on that island. The
phenomenon, I was told, was of common occurrence. It would be singular
if the attractive force of these two islands should thus manifest
itself even in the atmosphere.
This conversation excited again the question I had so often asked
myself: whether I ought to give up all idea of visiting Malta. The
difficulties and dangers, however, which had been already well
considered, remained the same; and we, therefore, resolved to engage
our vetturino to take us to Messina.
But, in the meantime, a strange and peculiar whim was to determine our
future movements. For instance, in my travels through Sicily, I had,
as yet seen but few districts rich in corn: moreover, the horizon had
everywhere been confined by nearer or remoter lines of hills, so that
the island appeared to be utterly devoid of level plains, and I found
it impossible to conceive why Ceres had so highly favoured this island.
As I sought for information on this point, I was answered that, in
order to see this, I ought, instead of going to Syracuse, to travel
across the island, in which case I should see corn-fields in abundance.
We followed this temptation, of giving up Syracuse, especially as I was
well aware that of this once glorious city scarcely anything but its
splendid name remained. And, at any rate, it was easy to visit it from
Catania.
* * * * *
_Caltanisetta, Saturday, April_ 28, 1787.
At last, we are able to understand how Sicily gained the honourable
title of the Granary of Italy. Shortly after leaving Girgenti, the
fertile district commenced. It does not consist of a single great
plain, but of the sides of mountains and hills, gently inclined
towards each other, everywhere planted with wheat, or barley which
present to the eye an unbroken mass of vegetation. Every spot of earth
suited to these crops is so put to use and so jealously looked after,
that not a tree is anywhere to be seen. Indeed, the little villages
and farm-houses all lie on the ridges of the hills, where a row of
limestone rocks, which often appear on the surface, renders the ground
unfit for tillage. Here the females reside throughout the year, busily
employed in spinning and weaving; but the males, while the work in the
fields is going on, spend only Saturday and Sunday at home, staying
away at their work during the other days, and spending their nights
under temporary straw-sheds.
And so our wish was gratified--even to satiety; we almost wished for
the winged car of Triptolemus to escape from the monotony of the scene.