and a little refreshment, I was able to give my especial attention to
the old and new lava. And here the elder of the guides was able to
instruct me accurately in the signs by which the age of the several
strata was indicated. The older were already covered with ashes, and
rendered quite smooth; the newer, especially those which had cooled
slowly, presented a singular appearance. As, sliding along, they
carried away with them the solid objects which lay on the surface, it
necessarily happened that from time to time several would come into
contact with each other, and these again being swept still further by
the molten stream, and pushed one over the other, would eventually form
a solid mass with wonderful jags and corners, still more strange even
than the somewhat similarly formed piles of the icebergs. Among this
fused and waste matter I found many great rocks, which, being struck
with a hammer, present on the broken face a perfect resemblance to the
primeval rock formation. The guides maintained that these were old lava
from the lowest depths of the mountain, which are very often thrown up
by the volcano.
* * * * *
Upon our return to Naples, we noticed some small houses of only one
story, and of a remarkable appearance and singular build, without
windows, and receiving all their light from the doors, which opened on
the road. The inhabitants sit before them at the door from the morning
to the night, when they at last retire to their holes.
* * * * *
The city, which in the evening is all of a tumult, though of a
different kind from the day, extorted from me the wish that I might be
able to stay here for some time, in order to sketch to the best of my
powers the moving scene. It will not, however, be possible.
* * * * *
[Sidenote: Naples--An antique-A horse's head.]
_Naples, Wednesday, March_ 7, 1787.
This week Tischbein has shown to me, and without reserve commented
upon, the greater part of the artistic treasures of Naples. An
excellent judge and drawer of animals, he had long before called my
attention to a horse's head in brass in the Palace Columbrano: we
went there to-day. This relic of art is placed in the court right
opposite the gateway, in a niche over a well, and really excites one's
astonishment. What must have been the effect of the whole head and
body together? The perfect horse must have been far larger than those
at S. Mark's: moreover, the head alone, when closely viewed, enables
you distinctly to recognise and admire the character and spirit of the
animal. The splendid frontal bones, the snorting nostrils, the pricked
ears, the stiff mane,--a strong, excited, and spirited creature!
We turned round to notice a female statue which stands in a niche
over the gateway. It has been already described by Winckelmann as
an imitation of a dancing girl, with the remark, that such artistes
represent to us in living movement, and under the greatest variety,
that beauty of form which the masters of statuary exhibit in the (as it
were) petrified nymphs and goddesses. It is very light and beautiful;
the head, which had been broken off, has been skilfully set on again:
otherwise it is nowise injured, and most assuredly deserves a better
place.
* * * * *
_Naples._
To-day I received your dear letter of the 16th February only, keep on
writing. I have made arrangements for the forwarding of my letters, and
I shall continue to do so, if I move further. Quite strange does it
seem to me to read that my friends do not often see each other; and yet
perhaps nothing is more common than for men not to meet who are living
close together.
The weather here has become dull: a change is at hand. Spring is
commencing, and we shall soon have some rainy days. The summit of
Vesuvius has not been clear since I paid it a visit. These few last
nights flames have been seen to issue from it; to-day it is keeping
itself quiet, and therefore more violent eruptions are expected.
The storms of these last few days have shown to us a glorious sea; it
is at such times that the waves may be studied in their worthiest style
and shape. Nature, indeed, is the only book which presents important
matter on all its pages. On the other hand, the theatres have ceased to
furnish any amusement. During Lent nothing but operas, which differ in
no respect from more profane ones but by the absence of ballets between
the acts; in all other respects they are as gay as possible. In the
theatre of S. Carlo they are representing the destruction of Jerusalem
by Nebuchadnezzar: to me it is only a great raree-show; my taste is
quite spoilt for such things.
To-day we were with the Prince von Waldeck at Capo di Monte, where
there is a great collection of paintings, coins, &c. It is not well
arranged, but the things themselves are above praise: we can now
correct and confirm many traditional ideas. Those coins, gems, and
vases which, like the stunted citron-trees, come to us in the north one
by one, have quite a different look here in the mass, and, so to speak,
in their own home and native soil. For where works of art are rare,
their very rarity gives them a value; here we learn to treasure none
but the intrinsically valuable.
[Sidenote: Naples.]
A very high price is at present given for Etruscan vases, and certainly
beautiful and excellent pieces are to be found among them. Not a
traveller but wishes to possess some specimen or other of them; one
does not seem to value money here at the same rate as at home: I fear
that I myself shall yet be tempted.
* * * * *
_Naples, Friday, March_ 9, 1787.
This is the pleasant part of travelling, that even ordinary matters,
by their novelty and unexpectedness, often acquire the appearance of
an adventure. As I came back from Capo di Monte, I paid an evening
visit to Filangieri, and saw sitting on the sofa, by the side of the
mistress of the house, a lady whose external appearance seemed to agree
but little with the familiarity and easy manner she indulged in. In a
light, striped, silk gown of very ordinary texture, and a most singular
cap, by way of head-dress, but of a pretty figure, she looked like some
poor dressmaker who, taken up with the care of adorning the persons of
others, had little time to bestow on her own external appearance; such
people are so accustomed to expect their labours to be remunerated,
that they seem to have no idea of working gratis for themselves. She
did not allow her gossip to be at all checked by my arrival, but went
on talking of a number of ridiculous adventures which had happened to
her that day, or which had been occasioned by her own _brusquerie_ and
impetuosity.
The lady of the house wished to help me to get in a word or two, and
spoke of the beautiful site of Capo di Monte, and of the treasures
there. Upon this the lively lady sprang up with a good high jump from
the sofa, and as she stood on her feet seemed still prettier than
before. She took leave, and running to the door, said, as she passed
me, "The Filangieri are coming one of these days to dine with me--I
hope to see you also." She was gone before I could say yes. I now
learnt that she was the Princess------, a near relative to the master
of the house.[6] The Filangieri were not rich, and lived in a becoming
but moderate style; and such I presumed was the case with my little
Princess, especially as such titles are anything but rare in Naples.
I set down the name, and the day and hour, and left them, without any
doubt but that I should be found at the right place in due time.
* * * * *
_Naples, Sunday, March_ 11, 1787.
As my stay in Naples cannot be long, I take the most remote points
first of all--the near throw themselves, as it were, in one's way. I
have been with Tischbein to Pompeii, and on our road all those glorious
prospects which were already well known to us from many a landscape
drawing, lay right and left, dazzling us by their number and unbroken
succession.
Pompeii amazes one by its narrowness and littleness; confined streets,
but perfectly straight, and furnished on both sides with a foot
pavement; little houses without windows, the rooms being lit only by
the doors, which opened on the atrium and the galleries. Even the
public edifices, the tomb at the gate, a temple, and also a villa in
its neighbourhood, are like models and dolls' houses, rather than
real buildings. The rooms, corridors, galleries and all, are painted
with bright and cheerful colours, the wall surfaces uniform; in the
middle some elaborate painting (most of these have been removed); on
the borders and at the corners, light tasteful arabesques, terminating
in the pretty figures of nymphs or children; while in others, from
out of garlands of flowers, beasts, wild and tame, are issuing.
Thus does the city, which first of all the hot shower of stones and
ashes overwhelmed, and afterwards the excavators plundered, still
bear witness, even in its present utterly desolate state, to a taste
for painting and the arts common to the whole people, of which the
most enthusiastic dilettante of the present day has neither idea nor
feeling, and so misses not.
[Footnote 6: Filangieri's sister.]
When one considers the distance of this town from Vesuvius, it is clear
that the volcanic matter which overwhelmed it could not have been
carried hither either by any sudden impetus of the mountain, or by
the wind. We must rather suppose that these stones and ashes had been
floating for a time in the air, like clouds, until at last they fell
upon the doomed city.
In order to form a clear and precise idea of this event, one has only
to think of a mountain village buried in snow. The spaces between
the houses, and indeed the crushed houses themselves, were filled
up; however, it is not improbable that some of the mason-work may,
at different points, have peeped above the surface, and in this way
have excited the notice of those by whom the hill was broken up for
vineyards and gardens. And, no doubt, many an owner, on digging up
his own portion, must have made valuable gleanings. Several rooms
were found quite empty, and in the corner of one a heap of ashes was
observed, under which a quantity of household articles and works of art
was concealed.
The strange, and in some degree unpleasant impression which this
mummied city leaves on the mind, we got rid of, as, sitting in the
arbour of a little inn close to the sea (where we dispatched a frugal
meal), we revelled in the blue sky, the glaring ripple of the sea, and
the bright sunshine; and cherished a hope that, when the vine-leaf
should again cover the hill, we might all be able to pay it a second
visit, and once more enjoy ourselves together on the same spot.
As we approached the city, we again came upon the little cottages,
which now appeared to us perfectly to resemble those in Pompeii.
We obtained permission to enter one, and found it extremely
clean--neatly-platted rush-bottomed chairs, a buffet, covered all over
with gilding, or painted with variegated flowers, and highly varnished.
Thus, after so many centuries, and such numberless changes, this
country instils into its inhabitants the same customs and habits of
life, the same inclinations and tastes.
* * * * *
_Naples, Monday, March_ 12, 1787.
To-day, according to my custom, I have gone slowly through the city,
noting several points, for a future description of it, of which
unfortunately I cannot communicate anything to-day. All tends to
this one conclusion: that a highly-favored land, which furnishes in
abundance the chief necessaries of existence, produces men also of a
happy disposition, who, without trouble or anxiety, trust to to-morrow
to bring them what to-day has been wanting, and consequently live on in
a lighthearted careless sort of life. Momentary gratification, moderate
enjoyments, a passing sorrow, and a cheerful resignation!
The morning has been cold and damp, with a little rain. In my walk I
came upon a spot where the great slabs of the pavement appeared swept
quite clean. To my great surprise I saw, on this smooth and even
spot, a number of ragged boys squatting in a circle, and spreading
out their hands over the ground, as if to warm them. At first I took
it to be some game that they were playing; when, however, I noticed
the perfect seriousness and composure of their countenances, with an
expression on it of a gratified want, I therefore put my brains to the
utmost stretch, but they refused to enlighten me as I desired. I was,
therefore, obliged to ask what it could be that had, induced these
little imps to take up this strange position, and had collected them in
so regular a circle.
Upon this I was informed that a neighbouring smith had been heating the
tire of a wheel, and that this is done in the following manner:--The
iron tire is laid on the pavement, and around is as much oak chips as
is considered sufficient to soften the iron to the required degree.
The lighted wood burns away, the tire is riveted to the wheel, and the
ashes carefully swept up. The little vagabonds take advantage of the
heat communicated to the pavement, and do not leave the spot till they
have drawn from it the last radiation of warmth. Similar instances of
contentedness, and sharp-witted profiting by what otherwise would be
wasted, occur here in great number. I notice in this people the most
shrewd and active industry, not to make riches, but to live free from
care.
* * * * *
_Evening._
In order that I might not make any mistake yesterday, as to the house
of my odd little princess, and might be there in time, I called a
hackney carriage. It stopped before the grand entrance of a spacious
palace. As I had no idea of coming to so splendid a dwelling, I
repeated to him most distinctly the name; he assured me it was quite
rights I soon found myself in a spacious court, still and lonesome,
empty and clean, enclosed by the principal edifice and side buildings.
The architecture was the well-known light Neapolitan style, as was
also the colouring. Right before me was a grand porch, and a broad
but not very high flight of steps. On both sides of it stood a line
of servants, in splendid liveries, who, as I passed them, bowed very
low. I thought myself the Sultan in Wieland's fairy tale, and after
his example, took courage. Next I was received by the upper domestics,
till at last the most courtly of them opened a door, and introduced me
into a spacious apartment, which was as splendid, but also as empty of
people as all before. In passing backwards and forwards I observed, in
a side-room, a table laid out for about forty persons, with a splendour
corresponding with all around. A secular priest now entered, and
without asking who I was, or whence I came, approached me as if I were
already known to him, and conversed on the most common-place topics.
[Sidenote: Naples--A dinner party.]
A pair of folding doors were now thrown open and immediately closed
again, as a gentleman rather advanced in years entered. The priest
immediately proceeded towards him, as I also did; we greeted him with a
few words of courtesy, which he returned in a barking stuttering tone,
so that I could scarcely make out a syllable of his Hottentot dialect.
When he had taken his place by the stove, the priest moved away, and I
accompanied him. A portly Benedictine entered, accompanied by a younger
member of his order. He went to salute the host, and after being also
barked at, retired to a window. The _regular_ clergy, especially
those whose dress is becoming, have great advantage in society; their
costume is a mark of humility and renunciation of self, while, at the
same time it lends to its wearers a decidedly dignified appearance. In
their behaviour they may easily, without degrading themselves, appear
submissive and complying; and then again, when they stand upon their
own dignity, their self-respect sits well upon them, although in others
it would not be so readily allowed to pass. This was the case with this
person. When I asked him about Monte Cassino, he immediately gave me
an invitation thither, and promised me the best of welcomes. In the
meanwhile the room had become full of people; officers, people of the
court, more regulars, and even some Capuchins, had arrived. Once more
a set of folding-doors opened and shut; an aged lady, somewhat older
than my host, had entered; and now the presence of what I took to be
the lady of the house, made me feel perfectly confident that I was in
a strange mansion, where I was wholly unknown to its owners. Dinner
was now served, and I was keeping close to the side of my friends the
monks, in order to slip with them into the paradise of the dining-room,
when all at once I saw Filangieri, with his wife, enter and make his
excuses for being so late. Shortly after this my little princess came
into the room, and with nods, and winks, and bows to all as she passed,
came straight to me.--"It is very good of you to keep your word," she
exclaimed; "mind you sit by me,--you shall have the best bits,--wait a
minute though; I must find out which is my proper place, then mind and
take your place by me." Thus commanded, I followed the various windings
she made; and at last we reached our seats, having the Benedictine
right opposite and Filangieri on my other side. "The dishes are all
good," she observed,--"all lenten fare, but choice: I'll point out to
you the best. But now I must rally the priests,--the churls! I can't
bear them; every day they are cutting a fresh slice off our estate.
What we have, we should like to spend on ourselves and our friends."
The soup was now handed round,--the Benedictine was sipping his very
deliberately. "Pray don't put yourself out of your way,--the spoon
is too small, I fear; I will bid them bring you a larger one. Your
reverences are used to a good mouthful." The good father replied,--"In
your house, lady, every thing is so excellent, and so well arranged,
that much more distinguished guests than your humble servant would find
everything to their heart's content."
Of the pasties the Benedictine took only one; she called out to
him,--"Pray take half a dozen; pastry, your reverence surely knows, is
easy of digestion." With good sense he took another pasty, thanking
the princess for her attention, just as if he had not seen through her
malicious raillery. And so, also, some solid paste-work furnished her
with occasion for venting her spite; for, as the monk helped himself
to a piece, a second rolled off the dish towards his plate,--"A third!
your reverence; you seem anxious to lay a foundation"--"When such
excellent materials are furnished to his hand, the architect's labours
are easy," rejoined his reverence. Thus she went on continually, only
pausing awhile to keep her promise of pointing out to me the best
dishes.
[Sidenote: Naples--A dinner party.]
All this while I was conversing with my neighbour on the gravest
topics. Absolutely, I never heard Filangieri utter an unmeaning
sentence. In this respect, and indeed in many others, he resembles our
worthy friend, George Schlosser, with this difference, that the former,
as a Neapolitan, and a man of the world, had a softer nature and an
easier manner.
During the whole of this time my roguish neighbour allowed the
clerical gentry not a moment's truce. Above all, the fish at this
lenten meal, dished up in imitation of flesh of all kinds, furnished
her with inexhaustible opportunities for all manner of irreverent and
ill-natured observations; especially in justification and defence of a
taste for flesh, she observed that people would have the form to give a
relish, even when the essence was prohibited.
Many more such jokes were noticed by me at the time, but I am not
in the humour to repeat them. Jokes of this kind, fresh spoken, and
falling from beautiful lips, may be tolerable, not to say amusing, but
set down in black and white, they lose all charm, for me at least. Then
again, the boldly hazarded stroke of wit has this peculiarity, that at
the moment it pleases us while it astonishes us by its boldness, but
when told afterwards, it sounds offensive, and disgusts us.
The dessert was brought in, and I was afraid that the cross-fire
would still be kept up, when suddenly my fair neighbour turned quite
composedly to me and said,--"The priests may gulp their Syracusan wine
in peace, for I cannot succeed in worrying a single one to death,--no,
not even in spoiling their appetites. Now, let me have some rational
talk with you; for what a heavy sort of thing must a conversation
with Filangieri be! The good creature; he gives himself a great deal
of trouble for nothing. I often say to him, if you make new laws,
we must give ourselves fresh pains to find out how we can forthwith
transgress them, just as we have already set at naught the old. Only
look now, how beautiful Naples is! For these many years the people have
lived free from care and contented, and if now and then some poor
wretch is hanged, all the rest still pursue their own merry course."
She then proposed that I should pay a visit to Sorrento, where she
had a large estate; her steward would feast me with the best of fish,
and the delicious _mungana_, (flesh of a sucking calf). The mountain
air, and the unequalled prospect, would be sure to cure me of all
philosophy,--then she would come herself, and not a trace should remain
of all my wrinkles, which, by the bye, I had allowed to grow before
their time, and together we would have a right merry time of it.
* * * * *
_Naples, March_ 13, 1787.
To-day also I write you a few lines, in order that letter may provoke
letter. Things go well with me--however, I see less than I ought. The
place induces an indolent and easy sort of life; nevertheless, my idea
of it is gradually becoming more and more complete.
On Sunday we were in Pompeii. Many a calamity has happened in the
world, but never one that has caused so much entertainment to posterity
as this one. I scarcely know of anything that is more interesting.
The houses are small and close together, but within they are all most
exquisitely painted. The gate of the city is remarkable, with the tombs
close to it. The tomb of a priestess, a semicircular bench, with a
stone back, on which was the inscription cut in large characters. Over
the back you have a sight of the sea and the setting sun--a glorious
spot, worthy of the beautiful idea.
We found there good and merry company from Naples; the men are
perfectly natural and light-hearted. We took our dinner at the "Torre
del' Annunziata," with our table placed close to the sea. The day was
extremely fine. The view towards Castell a Mare and Sorrento, near and
incomparable. My companions were quite rapturous in praise of their
native place; some asserted that without a sight of the sea it was
impossible to live. To me it is quite enough that I have its image in
my soul, and so, when the time comes, may safely return to my mountain
home.
Fortunately, there is here a very honest painter of landscapes, who
imparts to his pieces the very impression of the rich and open country
around. He has already executed some sketches for me.
[Sidenote: Naples--Pompeii--Portici.]
The Vesuvian productions I have now pretty well studied; things,
however, assume a different signification when one sees them in
connection. Properly, I ought to devote the rest of my life to
observation: I should discover much that would enlarge man's knowledge.
Pray tell Herder that my botanical discoveries are continually
advancing; it is still the same principle, but it requires a whole life
to work it out. Perhaps I am already in a situation to draw the leading
lines of it.
I can now enjoy myself at the museum of Portici. Usually people make it
the first object,--we mean to make it our last. As yet I do not know
whether I shall be able to extend my tour; all things tend to drive me
back to Rome at Easter. I shall let things take their course.
Angelica has undertaken to paint a scene out of my "Iphigenia." The
thought is a very happy subject for a picture, and she will delineate
it excellently. It is the moment when Orestes finds himself again in
the presence of his sister and his friend. What the three characters
are saying to each other she has indicated by the grouping, and given
their words in the expressions of their countenances. From this
description you may judge how keenly sensitive she is, and how quick
she is to seize whatever is adapted to her nature. And it is really the
turning point of the whole drama.
Fare you well, and love me! Here the people are all very good, even
though they do not know what to make of me. Tischbein, on the other
hand, pleases them far better. This evening he hastily painted some
heads of the size of life, and about which they disported themselves as
strangely as the New Zealanders at the sight of a ship of war. Of this
an amusing anecdote.