notice many limestone rocks. At last we reached the plains of Capua,
and shortly afterwards Capua itself, where we halted at noon. In the
afternoon a beautiful but flat region lay stretched before us; the road
is broad, and runs through fields of green corn, so even that it looked
like a carpet, and was at least a span high. Along the fields are
planted rows of poplars, from which the branches are lopped to a great
height, that the vines may run up them; this is the case all the way to
Naples. The soil is excellent, light, loose, and well worked. The vine
stocks are of extraordinary strength and height, and their shoots hang
in festoons like nets from tree to tree.
Vesuvius was all the while on our left with a strong smoke, and I
felt a quiet joy to think that at last I beheld with my own eyes this
most, remarkable object. The sky became clearer and clearer, and at
length the sun shone quite hot into our narrow rolling lodging. The
atmosphere was perfectly clear and bright as we approached Naples,
and we now found ourselves, in truth, in quite another world. The
houses, with flat roofs, at once bespeak a different climate; inwardly,
perhaps, they may not be very comfortable. Every one is in the streets,
or sitting in the sun as long as it shines. The Neapolitan believes
himself to be in possession of Paradise, and entertains a very
melancholy opinion of our northern lands. _Sempre neve, caso di legno,
gran ignoranza, ma danari assai._ Such is the picture they draw of
our condition. Interpreted for the benefit of all our German folk, it
means--Always snow, wooden houses, great ignorance, but money enough.
Naples at first sight leaves a free, cheerful, and lively impression;
numberless beings are passing and repassing each other: the king is
gone hunting, the queen _promising_; and so things could not be better.
* * * * *
_Naples, Monday, Feb._ 26, 1787. "_Alla Locanda del Sgr. Moriconi al
Largo del Castello._"
Under this address, no less cheerful than high-sounding, letters from
all the four quarters of heaven will henceforth find us. Round the
castle, which lies by the sea, there stretches a large open space,
which, although surrounded on all sides with houses, is not called a
square or piazza, but a largo, or expanse. Perhaps the name is derived
from ancient times, when it was still an open and unenclosed country.
Here, in a corner house on one side of the Largo, we have taken up our
lodgings in a corner room, which commands a free and lively view of the
ever moving surface. An iron balcony runs before several windows, and
even round the corner. One would never leave it, if the sharp wind were
not extremely cutting.
[Sidenote: Naples--My lodgings.]
The room is cheerfully decorated, especially the ceiling, whose
arabasques of a hundred compartments bear witness to the proximity of
Pompeii and Herculaneum. Now, all this is very well and very fine;
but there is no fire-place, no chimney, and yet February exercises
even here its rights. I expressed a wish for something to warm me.
They brought in a tripod of sufficient height from the ground for one
conveniently to hold one's hands over it; on it was placed a shallow
brazier, full of extremely fine charcoal red-hot, but covered smoothly
over with ashes. We now found it an advantage to be able to manage this
process of domestic economy; we had learned that at Rome. With the ring
of a key, from time to time, one cautiously draws away the ashes of the
surface, so that a few of the embers may be exposed to the free air.
Were you impatiently to stir up the glowing coals, you would no doubt
experience for a few moments great warmth, but you would in a short
time exhaust the fuel, and then you must pay a certain sum to have the
brasier filled again.
I did not feel quite well, and could have wished for more of ease and
comfort. A reed matting was all there was to protect one's feet from
the stone floor; skins are not usual. I determined to put on a sailor's
cloak which we had brought with us in fun, and it did me good service,
especially when I tied it round my body with the rope of my box. I must
have looked very comical, something between a sailor and a capuchin.
When Tischbein came back from visiting some of his friends, and found
me in this dress, he could not refrain from laughing.
* * * * *
_Naples, Feb._ 27, 1787.
Yesterday I kept quietly at home, in order to get rid of a slight
bodily ailment. To-day has been a regular carouse, and the time
passed rapidly while we visited the most glorious of objects. Let
man talk, describe and paint as he may--to be here is more than all.
The shore, the creeks, and the bay, Vesuvius, the city, the suburbs,
the castles, the atmosphere! In the evening, too, we went into the
Grotto of Posilippo, while the setting sun was shining into it from
the other side. I can pardon all who lose their senses in Naples, and
remember with emotion my father, who retained to the last an indelible
impression of those objects which to-day I have cast eyes upon for the
first time. Just as it is said, that people who have once seen a ghost,
are never afterwards seen to smile, so in the opposite sense it may be
said of him, that he never could become perfectly miserable, so long
as he remembered Naples. According to my fashion, I am quite still and
calm, and when anything happens too absurd, only make large-large eyes.
* * * * *
_Naples, Feb._ 28, 1787.
To-day we visited Philip Hackert, the famous landscape-painter, who
enjoys the special confidence and peculiar favour of the king and the
queen. A wing of the palace Franca Villa has been assigned to him,
which, having furnished it with true artistic taste, he feels great
satisfaction in inhabiting. He is a very precise and prudent personage,
who, with untiring industry, manages, nevertheless, to enjoy life.
After that we took a sail, and saw all kinds of fish and wonderful
shapes drawn out of the waves. The day was glorious; the _tramontane_
(north winds) tolerable.
* * * * *
[Sidenote: Naples--The Prince Von Waldeck.]
_Naples, March_ 1, 1787.
Even in Rome my self-willed hermit-like humour was forced to assume
a more social aspect than I altogether liked: no doubt it appears
a strange beginning to go into the world in order to be alone.
Accordingly I could not resist Prince von Waldeck, who most kindly
invited me, and by his rank and influence has procured me the enjoyment
of many privileges. We had scarcely reached Naples, where he has been
residing a long while, when he sent us an invitation to pay a visit
with him to Puzzuoli and the neighbourhood. I was thinking already of
Vesuvius for to-day; but Tischbein has forced me to take this journey,
which, agreeable enough of itself, promises from the fine weather, and
the society of a perfect gentleman, and well-educated prince, very much
both of pleasure and profit. We had also seen in Rome a beautiful lady,
who with her husband, is inseparable from the Prince. She also is to be
of the party; and we hope for a most delightful day.
Moreover, I was intimately known to this noble society, having met
them previously. The Prince, upon our first acquaintance, had asked me
what I was then busy with; and the plan of my "Iphigenia" was so fresh
in my recollection, that I was able one evening to relate it to them
circumstantially. They entered into it; still, still I fancied I could
observe that something livelier and wilder was expected of me.
* * * * *
_Evening._
It would be difficult to give an account of this day. How often has
the cursory reading of a book, which irresistibly carries one with it,
exercised the greatest influence on a man's whole life, and produced
at once a decisive effect, which neither a second perusal nor earnest
reflection can either strengthen or modify. This I experienced in
the case of the "Sakuntala"; and do not great men affect us somewhat
in the same way? A sail to Puzzuoli, little trips by land, cheerful
walks through the most wonderful regions in the world! Beneath the
purest sky the most treacherous soil; ruins of inconceivable opulence,
oppressive, and saddening; boiling waters, clefts exhaling sulphur,
rocks of slag defying vegetable life, bare forbidding tracts, and then
at last on all sides the most luxuriant vegetation seizing every spot
and cranny possible, running over every lifeless object, edging the
lakes and brooks, and nourishing a glorious wood of oak on the brink of
an ancient crater!
And thus one is driven backwards and forwards between nature and the
history of nations; one wishes to meditate, and soon feels himself
quite unfit for it. In the mean time, however, the living lives on
merrily, with a joyousness which we too would share. Educated persons,
belonging to the world and the world's ways, but warned by serious
events, become, nevertheless, disposed for reflection. A boundless view
of earth, sea, and sky,--and then called away to the side of a young
and amiable lady, accustomed and delighted to receive homage.
Amidst all this giddy excitement, however, I failed not to make many
notes. The future reduction of these will be greatly facilitated by the
map we consulted on the spot, and by a hasty sketch of Tischbein's.
To-day it is not possible for me to make the least addition to these.
* * * * *
_March_ 2.
Thursday I ascended Vesuvius, although the weather was unsettled, and
the summit of the mountain surrounded by clouds. I took a carriage
as far as Resina, and then, on the back of a mule, began the ascent,
having vineyards on both sides. Next, on foot, I crossed the lava of
the year '71, on the surface of which a fine but compact moss was
already growing; then upwards on the side of the lava. The hut of the
hermit on the height, was on my left hand. After this we climbed the
Ash-hill, which is wearisome walking; two-thirds of the summit were
enveloped in clouds. At last we reached the ancient crater, now filled
up, where we found recent lava, only two months and fourteen days
old, and also a slight streak of only five days, which was, however,
already cold. Passing over these, we next ascended a height which
had been thrown up by volcanic action; it was smoking from all its
points. As the smoke rolled away from us, I essayed to approach the
crater; scarcely, however, had we taken fifty steps in the steam, when
it became so dense that I could scarcely see my shoes. It was to no
purpose that we held snuff continually before our nostrils. My guide
had disappeared; and the footing on the lava lately thrown up was very
unsteady. I therefore thought it right to turn round, and to reserve
the sight for a finer day, and for less of smoke. However, I now know
how difficult it is to breathe in such an atmosphere.
[Sidenote: Naples--Vesuvius.]
Otherwise, the mountain was quite still. There was no flame, no
roaring, no stones thrown up--all which it usually does at most times.
I reconnoitered it well, with the intention of regularly storming it as
soon as the weather shall improve.
The specimens of lava that I found, were mostly of well-known kinds. I
noticed, however, a phenomenon which appeared to me extremely strange,
which I intend to examine again still more closely, and also to consult
connoisseurs and collectors upon it. It is a stalactite incrustation
of a part of the volcanic funnel, which has been thrown down, and now
rears itself in the centre of the old choked-up crater. This mass of
solid greyish stalactite appears to have been formed by the sublimation
of the very finest volcanic evaporation, without the co-operation
of either moisture or fusion. It will furnish occasion for further
thinking.
To-day, the 3rd of March, the sky is covered with clouds, and a sirocco
is blowing. For post-day, good weather.
A very strange medley of men, beautiful houses, and most singular
fishes are here to be seen in abundance.
Of the situation of the city, and of its glories, which have been so
often described and commended, not a word from me. "_Vede Napoli e poi
muori_," the cry here. "See Naples, and die."
* * * * *
_Naples, March_ 5, 1787.
That no Neapolitan will allow the merits of his city to be questioned,
that their poets should sing in extravagant hyperbole of the blessings
of its site, are not matters to quarrel about, even though a pair of
Vesuviuses stood in its neighbourhood. Here one can almost cast aside
all remembrances, even of Rome. As compared with this free, open
situation, the capital of the world, in the basin of the Tiber, looks
like a cloister built on a bad site.
The sea, with its vessels, and their destinations, presents wholly new
matters for reflection. The frigate for Palermo started yesterday,
with a strong, direct, north wind. This time it certainly will not be
more than six-and-thirty hours on the passage. With what longing did I
not watch the full sails as the vessel passed between Capri and Cape
Minerva, until at last it disappeared. Who could see one's beloved thus
sailing away and survive? The sirocco (south wind) is now blowing; if
the wind becomes stronger, the breakers over the Mole will be glorious.
To-day being Friday, is the grand promenade of the nobility, when every
one displays his equipages, and especially his stud. It is almost
impossible to see finer horses anywhere than in Naples. For the first
time in my life I have felt an interest in these animals.
* * * * *
_Naples, March_ 3, 1787.
Here you have a few leaves, as reporters of the entertainment I
have met with in this place; also a corner of the cover of your
letter, stained with smoke, in testimony of its having been with me
on Vesuvius. You must not, however, fancy, either in your waking
thoughts or in your dreams, that I am surrounded by perils; be
assured that wherever I venture, there is no more danger than on the
road to Belvedere. The earth is everywhere the Lord's; may be well
said in reference to such objects. I never seek adventure out of a
mere rage for singularity; but even because I am most cool, and can
catch at a glance, the peculiarities of any object, I may well do
and venture more than many others. The passage to Sicily is anything
but dangerous. A few days ago, the frigate sailed for Palermo with a
favorable breeze from the north, and, leaving Capri on the right, has,
no doubt, accomplished the voyage in six-and-thirty hours. In all such
expeditions, one finds the danger to be far less in reality than, at a
distance, one is apt to imagine.
Of earthquakes, there is not at present a vestige in Lower Italy; in
the upper provinces Rimini and its neighbourhood has lately suffered.
Thus the earth has strange humours, and people talk of earthquakes here
just as we do of wind and weather, and as in Thuringia they talk of
conflagrations.
I am delighted to find that you are now familiar with the two editions
of my "Iphigenia," but still more pleased should I he had you been more
sensible of the difference between them. I know what I have done for
it, and may well speak thereof, since I feel that I could make still
further improvements. If it be a bliss to enjoy the good, it is still
greater happiness to discern the better; for in art the best only is
good enough.
* * * * *
_Naples, March_ 5, 1787.
We spent the second Sunday of Lent in visiting church after church. As
in Rome all is highly solemn; so here every horn is merry and cheerful.
The Neapolitan school of painting, too, can only be understood in
Naples. One is astonished to see the whole front of a church painted
from top to bottom. Over the door of one, Christ is driving out of
the temple the buyers and sellers, who, terribly frightened, are
nimbly huddling up their wares, and hurrying down the steps on both
sides. In another church, there is a room over the entrance, which
is richly ornamented with frescoes representing the deprivation of
Heliodorus.[5] Luca Giordano must indeed have painted rapidly, to fill
such large areas in a lifetime. The pulpit, too, is here not always
a mere cathedra, as it is in other places,--a place where one only
may teach at a time; but a gallery. Along one of these I once saw a
Capuchin walking backwards and forwards, and, now from one end, now
from another, reproaching the people with their sins. What had he not
to tell them!
But neither to be told nor to be described is the glory of a night
of the full moon such as we have enjoyed here, wandering through the
streets and squares and on the quay, with its long promenade, and then
backwards and forwards on the beach; one felt really possessed with
the feeling of the infinity of space. So to dream is really worth all
trouble.
* * * * *
[Sidenote: Naples-Filangieri.]
_Naples, March_ 5, 1787.
I made to-day the acquaintance of an excellent individual, v and
I must briefly give you a general description of him. It is the
Chevalier Filangieri, famous for his work on legislation. He belongs
to those noble young men who wish to promote the happiness and the
moderate liberty of mankind. In his bearing you recognise at once the
soldier, the chevalier, and the man of the world; but this appearance
is softened by an expression of tender moral sensibility, which is
diffused over his whole countenance, and shines forth most agreeably in
his character and conversation; he is, moreover, heartily attached to
his sovereign and country, even though he cannot approve of all that
goes on. He is also oppressed with a fear of Joseph II. The idea of a
despot, even though it only floats as a phantom in the air, excites
the apprehensions of every noble-minded man. He spoke to me without
reserve, of what Naples had to fear from him; but in particular he
was delighted to speak of Montesquieu, Beccaria, and of some of his
own writings--all in the same spirit of the best will, and of a heart
full of youthful enthusiasm to do good. And yet he may one day be
classed with the Thirty. He has also made me acquainted with an old
writer, from whose inexhaustible depths these new Italian friends of
legislation derive intense encouragement and edification. He is called
Giambattista Vico, and is preferred even to Montesquieu. After a hasty
perusal of his book, which was lent to me as a sacred deposit, I laid
it down, saying to myself, Here are sybilline anticipations of good and
right, which once must, or ought to be, realised, drawn apparently from
a serious contemplation both of the past and of the present. It is well
when a nation possesses such a forefather: the Germans will one day
receive a similar codex from _Hamann._
[Footnote 5: Heliodorus, Bishop of Trieca, in Thessaly, in the fourth
century, author of the "Œthiopics, or, the Amours of Theagenes and
Chariclea," was, it is said, deprived of his bishopric for writing this
work.--A. W. M.]
* * * * *
_Naples, March_ 6, 1787.
Most reluctantly, yet, for the sake of good-fellowship, Tischbein
accompanied me to-day to Vesuvius. To him--the artist of form, who
concerns himself with none but the most beautiful of human and animal
shapes, and one also whose taste and judgment lead to humanise even
the formless rock and landscape,--such a frightful and shapeless
conglomeration of matter, which, moreover, is continually preying on
itself, and proclaiming war against every idea of the beautiful, must
have appeared utterly abominable.
We started in two caleches, as we did not trust ourselves to drive
through the crowd and whirl of the city. The drivers kept up an
incessant shouting at the top of their voice whenever donkeys with
their loads of wood or rubbish, or rolling caleches met us, or else
warning the porters with their burdens, or other pedestrians, whether
children or old people to get out of the way. All the while, however,
they drove at a sharp trot, without the least stop or check.
As you get into the remoter suburbs and gardens, the road soon begins
to show signs of a Plutonic action. For as we had not had rain for a
long time, the naturally evergreen leaves were covered with a thick
gray and ashy dust; so that the glorious blue sky, and the scorching
sun which shone down upon us, were the only signs that we were still
among the living.
[Sidenote: Naples--Ascent to Vesuvius.]
At the foot of the steep ascent, we were received by two guides, one
old, the other young, but both active fellows. The first pulled me up
the path, the other Tischbein,--pulled I say, for these guides are
girded round the waist with a leathern belt, which the traveller takes
hold of, and being drawn up by his guide, makes his way the easier with
foot and staff. In this manner we reached the flat from which the cone
rises: towards the north lay the ruins of the Somma.
A glance westwards over the country beneath us, removed, as well as
a bath could, all feeling of exhaustion and fatigue, and we now went
round the ever-smoking cone, as it threw out its stones and ashes.
Wherever the space allowed of our viewing it at a sufficient distance,
it appeared a grand and elevating spectacle. In the first place, a
violent thundering toned forth from its deepest abyss, then stones of
larger and smaller sizes were showered into the air by thousands, and
enveloped by clouds of ashes. The greatest part fell again into the
gorge; the rest of the fragments, receiving a lateral inclination, and
falling on the outside of the crater, made a marvellous rumbling noise.
First of all the larger masses plumped against the side, and rebounded
with a dull heavy sound; then the smaller came rattling down; and last
of all, drizzled a shower of ashes. All this took place at regular
intervals, which by slowly counting, we were able to measure pretty
accurately.
Between the _Somma_, however, and the cone the space is narrow enough;
moreover, several stones fell around us, and made the circuit anything
but agreeable. Tischbein now felt more disgusted than ever with
Vesuvius, as the monster, not content with being hateful, showed an
inclination to become mischievous also.
As, however, the presence of danger generally exercises on man a kind
of attraction, and calls forth a spirit of opposition in the human
breast to defy it, I bethought myself that, in the interval of the
eruptions, it would be possible to climb up the cone to the crater, and
to get back before it broke out again. I held a council on this point
with our guides under one of the overhanging rocks of the Somma, where,
encamped in safety, we refreshed ourselves with the provisions we had
brought with us. The younger guide was willing to run the risk with me;
we stuffed our hats full of linen and silk handkerchiefs, and, staff in
hand, we prepared to start, I holding on to his girdle.
The little stones were yet rattling around us, and the ashes still
drizzling, as the stalwart youth hurried forth with me across the
hot glowing rubble. We soon stood on the brink of the vast chasm,
the smoke of which, although a gentle air was bearing it away from
us, unfortunately veiled the interior of the crater, which smoked
all round from a thousand crannies. At intervals, however, we caught
sight through the smoke of the cracked walls of the rock. The view
was neither instructive nor delightful; but for the very reason that
one saw nothing, one lingered in the hope of catching a glimpse of
something more; and so we forgot our slow counting. We were standing
on a narrow ridge of the vast abyss: of a sudden the thunder pealed
aloud; we ducked our heads involuntarily, as if that would have rescued
us from the precipitated masses. The smaller stones soon rattled, and
without considering that we had again an interval of cessation before
us, and only too much rejoiced to have outstood the danger, we rushed
down and reached the foot of the hill, together with the drizzling
ashes, which pretty thickly covered our heads and shoulders.