An Indian monument--Col. Hutchins--Second creek--The
Homochito--Buffaloe creek--Long uninhabited wilderness--Remark
on overseers--Wilkinsonburg and Fort Adams--An old friend--Mr.
Carey’s--Capt. Semple’s--Pinckneyville.
Leaving Mr. Green’s, I soon after past Mrs. Hutchins’s on the left, in
whose cotton field, at some distance from the road I observed an Indian
mound or barrow, similar to those which one so often meets with in the
vicinity of the Ohio, and of which I have been informed great numbers
are in this country. Mrs. Hutchins is the widow of a col. Hutchins,
who was a half-pay British officer, had considerable landed property,
was very hospitable, and had great influence in the political business
of the territory, which by the manner he used it, acquired him the
character of an ambitious monarchist.[210]
This and all the neighbouring plantations are called the Second
creek settlement from a rivulet of that name which flows from the
eastward towards the Mississippi. The soil is much superiour to that
near Natchez, and the farms are generally the best improved in the
territory. I observed a very handsome coach under a shed near Mrs.
Hutchins’s cottage, which was the only one I had seen in this country.
The road led from hence southerly through pleasant open woods, with
very few plantations in sight, {299} eight miles, to Greaton’s tavern
on the right bank of the Homochito. After putting up my horse, I joined
Mr. Greaton in fishing, he providing me with a rod and line--I was
unsuccessful, but he caught some delicate cat-fish, and four fine carp,
about a pound and a half each. A thunder shower interrupting our sport,
we returned to the house, supped on our fish, coffee, and bread and
butter, and retired for the night.
The Homochito is a beautiful little river of clear water, and a sandy
bottom, here about fifty yards wide. It falls into the Mississippi ten
or twelve miles from hence, on its banks ten miles higher up, is a fine
thriving settlement, called the Jersey settlement, from the inhabitants
having generally emigrated from that state; and 10 miles still higher
or more north easterly, the lake road from Orleans to Natchez crosses
it.
Friday 26th, I was ferried across the Homochito by an old Spaniard, in
a flat which he hauled over by a rope leading through two rollers fixed
on the gunwale. I found the country hilly, but the road was pleasant,
and the soil rich, though thinly inhabited. I had eight miles to Mrs.
Crosby’s, a remarkably fat widow, who keeps a tavern and receives the
toll of a bridge over Buffaloe creek, which is a deep, slow and muddy
little river, joining the Mississippi, six or seven miles from hence,
through a long and extensive swamp. My fat landlady made breakfast for
me, while my horse was feeding, after which I pursued my way to the
left of the swamp, mounting into a hilly country, covered with a thick
cane brake, through which a wagon road is cut in a S. W. direction
eleven miles, without settlement, house or water, in all that distance,
so that it is both fatiguing and dreary.
I emerged from the hills and canes over a small creek, at a fine
plantation of a Mr. Percy. My horse being fatigued, I stopped to
request a little {300} fodder for him, which was accorded with a very
ill grace by the overseer, the proprietor residing at Washington. And
here I will remark that the overseers of plantations in this whole
territory, are for the most part a rough, unpolished, uncouth class of
people, which perhaps proceeds from their being made use of literally
as negro drivers, to keep those unfortunate wretches to their work in
the field, and to correct them for all real or supposed offences.--They
do this with their own hands, and not as in the sugar colonies, by one
of the slaves themselves, appointed for that purpose and called the
driver. This renders them callous to every thing like sentiment or
feeling, and gives them a roughness and abruptness in their manners,
which is extremely disagreeable and disgusting.
A good road with a ridge of hills called Loftus’s heights on the left,
and the swamp which commenced at Buffaloe creek on the right, leads
from hence to Fort Adams in a distance of six miles, there being a
few plantations on both sides of the road, those on the right joining
the swamp, and the left hand ones being on the broken land beyond the
cliffs and hills.[211]
Fort Adams or Wilkinsonburg is a poor little village of a dozen
houses, most of them in decay, hemmed in between the heights and the
river. The fort from whence it derives its first name, is situated on a
bluff overhanging the river, at the extremity of the ridge of Loftus’s
heights. It is about one hundred feet above the ordinary level of the
Mississippi, which is not more than three hundred yards wide here, so
that the fort completely commands it, with several small brass cannon
and two small brass howitzers mounted “en barbette.” The fort which
is faced with brick, has only a level superficies large enough for
one bastion, with a small barrack inside, the {301} whole of which is
commanded by a block-house a hundred and fifty feet higher, on the
sharp peak of a very steep hill, which in time of war might serve as a
look out, as well as a post, as it commands a most extensive view over
the surrounding wilderness of forest, as well as the meanders of the
river for several miles.
The ridge of hills near Natchez, bounds the prospect to the northward,
but there is nothing for the eye to rest on, not even a plantation to
be seen, as they are all veiled by the surrounding forests, the gloom
of which is heightened by the idea, that a principal portion of the
vast tract in sight, is nothing but an unwholesome swamp, which will
cost thousands of lives before it can ever be made habitable, or fit
for cultivation. This is experienced in a great degree at Fort Adams,
which on account of its insalubrity, is deserted by its garrison, a
subaltern with a platoon being left in it, to guard the pass, and
prevent smuggling--while the garrison inhabits a pleasant cantonment
in the hills towards Pinckneyville, about five miles distant. A path
descends gradually from the block-house to the town, along a very
narrow ridge, about the middle of which is the burying place of the
garrison, the graves of the officers being conspicuous by head stones
with the name, rank, and time of decease. Two or three are interred
here who have been shot in duels, to which barbarous custom they are
much addicted in the American army.
There are two gun boats moored a little above the fort, which, with the
long view up the river, and the flat country on the opposite bank put
me in mind of the river Shannon at Tarbet in Ireland; to which however
it is far inferiour in breadth as well as in magnificence, and variety
of scenery. The unhealthiness of its scite is probably the reason that
{302} Wilkinsonburg does not prosper, notwithstanding it is the capital
of a county, and is a post town.
I put up at Marsalis’s tavern, where my old and esteemed friend,
doctor H----, lodged. I found him confined by a severe attack of the
dysentery, which however did not prevent his giving me a cordial and a
joyous welcome. Notwithstanding the poverty of the place, Marsalis gave
us a tolerably good supper, according to the custom of the country, of
coffee, bread and butter, sliced bacon, and a fine dish of gaspar-goo,
the best fish I had yet tasted of the produce of the Mississippi.
Saturday, 27th--My horse being foundered, doctor H---- accommodated me
with another very good one, and after breakfast I proceeded on a good
road to the south-eastward, over the most broken and hilly country I
had yet seen in the territory, it leading sometimes along the brink
of some high and steep precipices, but is kept in good order by the
troops encamped in the neighbourhood. At four miles I kept to the left
towards Pinckneyville, instead of turning to the right to the camp, at
a mile’s distance, as I intended to visit it on my return. I passed two
small plantations near the forks of the road, they being the only ones
between Wilkinsonburg and Mr. Carey’s, which was three miles farther,
the country becoming gradually less broken.
Mr. Carey, to whom I had a letter from H----, received me with cordial
hospitality, but there was nothing strange in that, he being a native
of Erin, that country so noted for this now unfashionable virtue.[212]
{303} After dinner I went half a mile farther to Capt. Robert Semple’s,
brother to my friend Steele Semple, Esq. of Pittsburgh. He was formerly
a captain in the United States’ army, and is now owner of a very fine
plantation, where he resides, living in a style of well regulated,
gentlemanly taste and liberality.--From him and his amiable lady I
experienced a most friendly reception, and remaining with them until
next morning (Sunday, 28th) I proceeded on my route, going back to
Mr. Carey’s. Keeping his plantation on the left, two miles S. S. E.
brought me to Pinckneyville. On arriving at Mr. Carey’s yesterday,
I had got out of the broken hilly country, and I was now in one of
alternate plains and gently sloping hills affording fine situations for
plantations, mostly occupied.
Pinckneyville is a straggling village of ten houses, mostly in decay,
and some of them uninhabited. It is situated on a pleasant sloping
plain, and the surrounding country is comparatively well cultivated. It
has a little church, a tavern, a store and a post-office.
FOOTNOTES:
[210] Colonel Anthony Hutchins, of New Jersey, joined the Sixtieth
Infantry and served under General Amherst in the French and Indian War.
Retired on half-pay, he settled first in North Carolina, then removed
to Natchez in 1772, forming a plantation twelve miles therefrom, at
White Apple village. During the Revolution he was a persistent Tory,
and headed the party which recaptured Fort Panmure in 1782. Upon
the advance of the Spaniards, Hutchins escaped through the woods to
Savannah, going thence to London. He was only permitted to return after
several years of exile. Upon the installation of American government,
Hutchins promptly took the oath of allegiance, dying shortly after
(1804) at an advanced age.--ED.
[211] Loftus Heights was so named from the Indian attack made therefrom
in 1764, upon the British troops under Major Loftus, who were going to
secure the Illinois country. The detachment was obliged to retire to
New Orleans. Fort Adams was built by the orders of Wilkinson in 1798,
and the American troops from Natchez and Vicksburg removed thither.--ED.
[212] Curran, in one of his celebrated speeches, thus beautifully
described the native hospitality of his country:
“The hospitality of other countries is a matter of necessity, or
convention; in savage nations, of the first; in polished, of the
latter: but the hospitality of an Irishman is not the running account
of _posted_ and _ledgered_ courtesies, as in other countries; it
springs like all his other qualities, his faults, his virtues, directly
from the heart. The heart of an Irishman is by nature bold, and he
confides; it is tender, and he loves; it is generous, and he gives; it
is social, and he is hospitable.”--CRAMER.