Sulserstown--Washington--Mr. Blennerhasset’s--Natchez--Historical
sketch of Mississippi territory--Col. Sargeant’s--Col. Scott’s--Fine
country--Mr. Green’s.
The road turning more to the S. W. led us through a wood along a
high ridge a little broken by hills, descending abruptly on each
hand at intervals, with only one small settlement in the six miles
to Sulserstown, which is a village of ten small houses, {292} three
of which are taverns. After passing it, I observed to the N. W. an
extensive cotton plantation, with a good house in a very picturesque
situation, occasioned by an insulated hill near it, with a flat plain
on the top, cultivated in cotton, supported on every side by a cliff,
clothed with wood, rising abruptly from the cultivated plantation
below, which beyond the insulated hill, was bounded by a range of
broken higher hills, cultivated to near the tops, and crowned with
woods.
Six miles more brought us through a tolerably well inhabited country,
to Washington, the capital of the territory, where we stopped at Hill’s
tavern.--This tavern (as I find is the custom in this country) is kept
in a front building by Mr. Hill, assisted by some negro servants, while
Mrs. Hill and her daughters live in a detached building in the rear,
where I was received by them kindly, in remembrance of their having
descended the Ohio and Mississippi in my boat with me.
Before supper I walked through the town, in which I counted thirty
scattering houses, including one store, one apothecary’s shop, three
taverns and a gaol, all in one street on the Natchez road. The dress
of some ladies I met in my ramble was tasty and rather rich. Water is
well supplied by wells about forty feet deep, and about a quarter of
a mile from the east end is a delightful spring, near the bank of St.
Catherine’s creek, where is a hot and cold bath--the price of bathing
is three eighths of a dollar. Wine, liquors, and spirits are sold--and
I found three or four companies of males and females, seated in the
shade of some spreading forest trees, enjoying the cool transparent
water, either pure or mixed to their taste. I was informed that this
was a fashionable resort of the neighbouring country, for several
miles round, and from Natchez, between which city {293} and Washington
a stage coach plies, arriving here every evening and departing every
morning.
Hearing a drum beat, on enquiry, I was informed, that it was the
evening roll call of three or four companies of foot, at a barrack a
little beyond the baths.[204]
Governour Williams has a plantation adjoining the town, and resides in
a neat cottage upon it.
Wednesday 24th August.--After a sleepless night, I arose early and
found it raining, so I breakfasted, and awaited until ten o’clock, when
it clearing up a little, I rode three miles in a southerly direction
deviating a little to the right of the main road, to a farm rented
from Mr. Forman by Mr. Blennerhasset, at whose hospitable dwelling, I
was received by Mr. B. and his accomplished and amiable lady with the
utmost kindness and politeness.[205] I could not help contrasting their
present temporary residence in a decayed cabin, with their splendid
and tasty habitation on the Ohio. Blest however in each other, with
kindred souls and similar tastes--possessing a noble library, and still
a sufficiency left after all their losses, with a well regulated but
liberal economy, for all the necessaries, and many of the indulgencies
of life.
After dinner I tore myself with difficulty from the social and
intellectual feast I was enjoying, and proceeding on my journey through
a woody country, and a light soil, I arrived at Natchez a little before
dark.
I was much struck with the similarity of Natchez to many of the smaller
West India towns, particularly St. Johns Antigua, though not near so
large as it. The houses all with balconies and piazzas--some merchants’
stores--several little shops kept by free mulattoes, and French and
Spanish Creoles--the great mixture of colour of the people in the
streets, and many other circumstances, with the aid of a little fancy
to heighten the illusion, might have made one {294} suppose, in the
spirit of the Arabian Knight’s Entertainments, that by some magick
power, I had been suddenly transported to one of those scenes of my
youthful wanderings. When the illusion was almost formed, a company
of Indians meeting me in the street dispelled it, so bidding adieu to
the romance of the fancy, I sat down to supper at Mickie’s tavern, or
hotel, by which appellation it is dignified.
On Thursday the 25th, I arose early, and sauntered to the market-house
on a common in front of the town, where meat, fish and vegetables were
sold by a motley mixture of Americans, French and Spanish creoles,
Mulattoes and negroes. There seemed to be a sufficiency of necessaries
for so small a town, and the price of butcher’s meat, and fish was
reasonable, while vegetables, milk and butter were extravagantly dear.
Natchez, in latitude 31° 33′ N.--longitude 91° 29′ W. of Greenwich,
contains between eighty and one hundred dwelling houses, as nearly
as I could enumerate them. It is situated on a very broken and hilly
ground, but notwithstanding the irregularity and inequality of the
surface, the streets are marked out at right angles, which makes them
almost impassible in bad weather, except Market street and Front
street which are levelled as much as the ground will permit. A small
plain of a hundred and fifty yards wide in front of the town rising
gradually to the edge of the high cliff or bluff which overhangs the
river, veils the view of that interesting object from the inhabitants,
but at the same time contributes to defend the town from the noxious
vapours generated in the swamps immediately on the river banks, yet
not so effectually as to prevent its being sometimes subject to
fevers and agues, especially from July to October inclusive, when
few strangers escape a seasoning, as it is called, which frequently
proves mortal. The surrounding country at a little distance {295} from
the Mississippi, is as healthy as most other countries in the same
parallel of latitude. The landing, where are a few houses immediately
under the bluff, is particularly fatal to the crews of the Ohio and
Kentucky boats, who happen to be delayed there during the sickly season.
Though Natchez is dignified with the name of a city, it is nevertheless
but a small town. It is however a place of considerable importance in
consequence of its being the principal emporium of the commerce of
the territory, and of its having been so long the seat of government,
under the French, English, and Spaniards, which caused all the lands
in the vicinity to be cultivated and settled, while those more remote
were neglected, though in general a much better soil. There is a Roman
Catholick church, which is an old wooden building in decay, and there
is a brick meeting-house for either Presbyterians or Anabaptists, I
am not sure which. These, and an old hotel de ville, or court-house,
are the only publick buildings the city boasts, except it be an old
hospital, now fitting up as a theatre for a private dramatick society.
Several of the houses are new and very good, mostly of wood, and I am
informed many (more than half) have been added within the last four
or five years. Fort Penmure,[206] on the edge of the bluff is now in
ruins, but the situation, and the extent of the old ramparts, prove
it to have been a post of considerable consequence. It effectually
commands the river, without being commanded itself, and the view from
it is very extensive, particularly over the flat swamps of Louisiana,
on the opposite side of the Mississippi.
The first permanent settlement on the Mississippi was made in 1712,
and notwithstanding many misfortunes, particularly the failure of the
celebrated Mississippi company, founded by John {296} Law, during the
regency of the duke of Orleans, the settlements extended in 1727 to
Natchez, and a fort was erected there. In 1731, the Indians, disgusted
with the tyranny and cruelty of the French colonists, massacred most
of them, for which, in the following year, the French took ample
vengeance, almost extirpating the whole Natchez race. The few who
escaped took refuge amongst their neighbours the Choctaws, where
becoming naturalized, they soon lost their original name. The French
kept possession of the country until 1763, when it was ceded to the
British. It continued under the British government until 1779, when
it was surrendered by colonel Dickson the commander of the British
troops at Baton Rouge, to the Spaniards under Don Bernando de Galvez.
In 1798, in consequence of arrangements between the United States and
the government of Spain, the latter gave up all claim to the country
east of the Mississippi to the northward of the 31st degree of north
latitude, in favour of the former, who erected it into a territorial
government, under the name of the Mississippi territory.
Proceeding to the southward from Natchez, I passed some tasty cottages,
and deviating a little to the right of the main road, in two short
miles I came to colonel (late governour) Sergeant’s handsome brick
house.[207] The road led through a double swinging gate into a
spacious lawn, which the colonel has formed in the rear of the house,
the chief ornament of which was a fine flock of sheep. The appearance
of this plantation bespoke more taste and convenience than I had yet
observed in the territory. Riding half a mile through the lawn, I left
it by a similar gate to the first, and a quarter of a mile more of an
open wood brought me to colonel Wm. Scott’s, to whom I had a letter of
introduction.
{297} He received me according to his usual custom with kindness and
hospitality, and presented me to his lady and to governour Williams,
with whom he had been sitting at breakfast. I was invited to join the
breakfast party, and I spent an hour very agreeably. The colonel had
been a captain in the United States’ army under general Wayne, and
on his arrival in this country, he married a lively, genteel French
woman with a handsome fortune. He quitted the army, and joining the
militia, he is now adjutant general of the territory. He is a fine,
dashing, spirited and friendly Irishman, and has only to be known to be
esteemed.[208]
I forbear mentioning my opinion of the governour, as the curse of party
pervades this territory, as well as every other part of the United
States, and any opinion of a publick character, would not fail to
offend one or the other party.
After resisting a pressing invitation to prolong my visit, I proceeded
on my journey, passing several fine and well cultivated plantations,
the most conspicuous of which were Mr. Burling’s, Sir Wm. Dunbar’s,
Mr. Poindexter’s and Mr. Abner Green’s.[209] I had now come twelve
miles, and it being excessively hot, I stopped at Mr. Green’s to
request some fodder for my horse, to which Mr. Green obligingly added
an invitation to dinner to myself. After dinner, Mr. Green invited me
to look at his garden, which was very spacious, and well stocked with
useful vegetables, and understanding that I had been in the West Indian
islands, he made me observe some ginger in a thriving state, and the
cullaloo or Indian kail, also some very fine plants of Guinea grass,
which he proposes propagating. There was some Guinea corn, and another
kind of corn with a similar stalk and blades, but bearing its seed in a
large close knob, at the extreme top of the stalk. That beautiful shrub
the pomegranate, which, though scarce, seems natural {298} to this soil
and climate, was in great perfection, and several beds were occupied by
very fine strawberry plants, which are also scarce in this country.
FOOTNOTES:
[204] The seat of government for Mississippi Territory was removed
from Natchez to Washington in 1802. Governor Claiborne was authorized
to purchase land for a cantonment, and barracks, which was called Fort
Dearborn. For an interesting description of Washington at an early day,
see Claiborne, _Mississippi_, pp. 258-260.--ED.
[205] General Ezekiel Forman, of New Jersey, secured a Spanish grant
and migrated to the Natchez country in 1789-90. See his nephew’s
journal, _Narrative of a Journey down the Ohio and Mississippi_ (edited
by Lyman C. Draper; Cincinnati, 1888).
Blennerhassett retired to Mississippi after the Richmond trial, and
remained at this plantation, which he called LaCache, until 1819. He
was active in public affairs, serving on the committee of safety in
1813. He removed to Montreal, and later returned to England, dying at
Guernsey in indigent circumstances in 1831. Attempts were made in 1842
to secure restitution for Mrs. Blennerhassett from Congress, but she
died before this could be accomplished.--ED.
[206] Fort Panmure was the British name of the Natchez Post, which had
been called Fort Rosalie by the French. The English garrison found
the latter in a ruinous condition when sent to take possession in
1764. Fort Panmure was the scene of a struggle between English Tories
and American sympathizers in 1778-79. See Claiborne, _Mississippi_,
pp. 117-124. The historical account of Natchez given by Cuming, is
substantially correct. See F. A. Michaux’s _Travels_, vol. iii of this
series, p. 254, note 53.--ED.
[207] Winthrop Sargent was born at Gloucester, Massachusetts, in 1753,
and served under General Knox throughout the Revolution. Shortly after
he became interested in the Ohio Company of Associates, and in 1786
was appointed surveyor therefor. Upon the organization of Northwest
Territory (1787), Sargent was appointed secretary, and continued in
this office until chosen governor of the newly-organized Territory
of Mississippi (1798). Sargent was a man of ability, a scholar, and
a poet; but being a Federalist and of New England austerity, he was
unpopular among his Democratic neighbors, and was removed by Jefferson
in 1801. He died in New Orleans in 1820.--ED.
[208] Colonel William Scott enlisted from Maryland, being at first
ensign (1795), then lieutenant in the third infantry, and captain
(1800). Two years later, he was honorably discharged and retired to
Mississippi. He served as lieutenant-colonel of the Thirty-sixth
Infantry in the War of 1812-15.
Governor Robert Williams was a native of North Carolina, and had served
in Congress and on a commission for adjusting Mississippi land-titles
before he was appointed as governor of the territory (1804). The chief
episode of his term (1805-09) was the apprehension of Burr.--ED.
[209] These were among the most prominent of early Mississippians.
Sir William Dunbar was a Scotchman, who came to America because of
failing health, and embarked in the Indian trade at Fort Pitt in 1771.
Two years later he removed to West Florida, and shortly after settled
at Natchez. Under the Spanish régime he was chief surveyor, and in
1797 boundary commissioner for that power. He was appointed judge of
the first territorial court in 1798. Dunbar was a successful planter,
and had the first screw-press for cotton, in Mississippi. He also had
scientific attainments, and was a member of the American Philosophical
Society. He died in 1810, leaving many descendants.
Abner Green belonged to one of the most prominent Mississippi families.
He was brother of Colonel Thomas Green, first territorial delegate; his
father was a Virginian who came to Natchez under the Spanish régime,
and was influential in having Georgia assert its authority over this
territory. Abner Green was register of probates under the Bourbon
County, Georgia, act, and treasurer-general for the territory in 1801.
He married a daughter of Colonel Anthony Hutchins, and was regarded as
a model planter.
George Poindexter, one of the most able of Mississippi politicians,
was regarded by his enemies as one of the most unscrupulous. A native
of Virginia, he came to Mississippi in 1802. His first public office
was that of attorney-general for the territory, as such conducting
the prosecution of Aaron Burr. Having killed Abijah Hunt, a political
enemy, in a duel, he was nevertheless exonerated by being chosen one
of the territorial judges, which office he conducted with fairness and
ability. In the War of 1812-15, he served as aide to Jackson at New
Orleans, and became one of the general’s warm partisans, defending
him in Congress in 1819. Poindexter was a member of the Mississippi
Constitutional Convention of 1817, and the first representative in
Congress for the new state (1818-20). Upon his return home, he was
elected governor of the State after a campaign of great personal
bitterness, but was defeated in an attempt to secure a second term. In
1830, Poindexter again entered politics, being chosen United States
senator, in which position he attacked Jackson with as much spirit as
he had formerly defended him. Jackson even accused Poindexter of having
instigated an attempt upon his life, but afterwards was convinced of
his error. Poindexter retired from public life in 1835, but for twenty
years longer continued a career of dissipation and excess.--ED.