There is doubtless always in the wine, when it turns sour, a necessary

intermediary, producing the fixation of the oxygen of the air; since

in no circumstances can pure alcohol, diluted to any degree whatever

with pure water, transform itself into vinegar. But this necessary

intermediary is not, as the German theory would have it, a dead

albuminoid substance; it is a plant, and of all plants one of the

simplest and most minute, which has been known from time immemorial

under the name of flower of vinegar. This little fungus is invariably

present on the surface of a wine which is being transformed into

vinegar. Liebig was not ignorant of this, but he regarded it as a

simple coincidence. Do we not know, said he, that whenever an infusion

of organic matter is exposed to the air it becomes covered with a

cryptogamic vegetation, or is invaded by a crowd of animalculæ? Is not

vinegar a vegetable infusion? Vinegar affords a refuge to the flower of

vinegar, just as it gives refuge to what are called the little eels of

vinegar.

We can appreciate here the uncertainties of pure observation. The

great art--and no one practised it better than Pasteur--consists in

instituting decisive experiments which leave no room for an inexact

interpretation of facts. These decisive proofs of the true part

played by the little microscopic fungus, by this flower of vinegar,

this mycoderma aceti, are thus formulated by Pasteur. It is but

another example of the method which he used in alcoholic, lactic, and

tartaric fermentations. The theories of Berzelius, of Mitscherlich,

and of Liebig were destined again to receive the rudest shocks by the

demonstration of these rigorous facts.

Let us place a little wine in a bottle, then hermetically seal it,

and leave it to itself. In these conditions the wine becomes sour.

But if we take the precaution of putting the bottle into hot water,

so that the wine and the air in the bottle may be heated for some

instants to a temperature of 60° Centigrade, and if, after cooling, we

leave the bottle to itself, the wine in these conditions will never

become transformed into vinegar. The heating, however, must have left

intact the albuminoid or nitrogenous substances contained in the

wine. These, then, cannot constitute the ferment of the vinegar. Can

it be maintained that by heating the wine to 60° we have altered the

albuminoid matter, which is, on this account, no longer able to act as

a ferment, or, in other words, no longer able to determine the union

of the oxygen of the air with the alcohol? This hypothesis falls to

pieces before the following experiment. Open the bottle, blow into it

with bellows, so that the once heated wine shall come into contact with

ordinary air, and the acetification of the wine will take place.

But the master experiment is the following. We have seen that pure

alcoholised water never turns sour unless some albuminoid matter is

introduced into it. Pasteur saw that this albuminoid matter might

be completely suppressed and replaced by saline crystallisable

substances, alkaline and earthy phosphates, to which has been added a

little phosphate of ammonia. In these conditions, especially if the

alcoholised water be acidulated by small quantities of pure acetic

acid, one actually sees the mycoderm developing, and the alcohol

transforming itself into acetic acid. It is not possible to demonstrate

in a more convincing manner that the albuminoid matters of the wine are

not in this case the acetic ferment. These albuminoid matters, however,

contribute to the acetic fermentation, but only as being an aliment to

the mycoderma aceti, and notably a nitrogenous aliment. The true and

only ferment of vinegar is the little fungus; it is the great agent of

the phenomenon; it, indeed, accomplishes all.

Is there not a great charm in seeing an obscure subject clearly

illuminated by facts well understood and well interpreted? If in a

bottle containing wine and air and raised to a temperature of 50° or

60° the wine never turns sour, it is because the germs of the mycoderma

aceti, which the wine and the air hold in suspension, are deprived of

all vitality by the heat. Placed, however, in contact with ordinary

air, this once-heated wine can turn sour; because, though the germs of

the mycoderma aceti contained at first in the wine are killed, this

is not the case with those derived from the surrounding air. Pure

alcoholised water never turns sour, even in contact with ordinary air,

and with whatever germs this air may carry, or that may be found in the

dust of the vessels which receive it. The reason is that these germs

cannot become fertile because of the absence of their indispensable

food. Wine in bottles well filled and laid flat do not acetify; this is

because the mycoderm cannot multiply for lack of oxygen. Without doubt

the air constantly penetrates through the pores of the cork, but always

in such feeble quantities that the colouring matters of the wine, and

other more or less oxydisable constituents, take possession of it

without leaving the smallest quantity for the germs of the mycoderm

which are generally suspended in the wine. When the bottle is upright

the conditions are quite altered. The desiccation of the cork renders

it much more permeable to the air, and the germs of the mycoderm on the

surface of the liquid, if any exist there, are enveloped by air.

Thus, to recapitulate in a few words the principles which have just

been established; it is easy to see that the formation of vinegar is

always preceded by the development, on the surface of the wine, of a

little plant formed of strangulated particles, of an extreme tenuity,

and the accumulation of which sometimes takes the form of a hardly

visible veil, sometimes of a wrinkled film of very slight thickness,

and greasy to the touch, because of the various fatty matters which the

plant contains.

This cryptogam has the singular property of condensing considerable

quantities of oxygen and of provoking the _fixation_ of this gas upon

the alcohol, which is thereby transformed into acetic acid. The little

mycoderm is not less exacting than larger vegetables. It must have

its appropriate aliments. Wine offers them in abundance: nitrogenous

matters, the phosphates of magnesia and of potash. The mycoderm

thrives, moreover, in warm climates. To cultivate it in temperate

regions like ours it is well to warm artificially the places where it

is cultivated. But if wine contains within itself all the elements

necessary to the life of the little mycoderm, this life is further

promoted by rendering the wine more acid through the addition of acetic

acid.

What, then, can be more simple than to produce vinegar from wine--a

manufacture which justly makes the reputation of the town of Orleans?

Take some wine, and after having mixed with it one-fourth or one-third

of its volume of vinegar already formed, sow on its surface the little

plant which does the work of acetification. It is only necessary to

skim off, by means of a wooden spatula, a little of the mycodermic film

from a liquid covered with it, and to transfer it to the liquid to be

acetified. The fatty matters which it contains render the wetting of

it difficult. Thus, when we plunge into the liquid the spatula covered

with the film, the latter detaches itself and spreads out over the

surface instead of falling to the bottom. When we operate in summer,

or in a room heated to 15° or 25° Centigrade in winter, in twenty-four

or forty-eight hours at most, the mycoderm covers the whole liquid,

so easy and rapid is its development. After some days all the wine has

become vinegar.

On one occasion, in a discussion which he was holding at the Academy

of Sciences, Pasteur, wishing to affirm the prodigious activity of the

life and multiplication of this little organism, expressed himself

thus:--

'I would undertake in the space of twenty-four hours to cover with

mycoderma aceti a surface of vinous liquid as large as the hall in

which we are here assembled. I should only have to sow in it the day

before almost invisible particles of newly-formed mycoderma aceti.'

Let the reader try to imagine the millions upon millions of little

mycoderma particles which would come to life in that one day.

But how is the mycoderm seed to be obtained in the first instance?

Nothing more simple. The mycoderma aceti is one of those little

so-called 'spontaneous' productions which are sure to appear of

themselves on the surface of liquids or infusions suitable to their

development. In wine, in vinegar, or suspended in air, everywhere

around us, in our towns, in our houses, there exist germs of this

little plant. If we wish to procure some fresh mycoderm it is only

necessary to put a mixture of wine and vinegar into a warm place. In a

few days, generally, if not always, there appear here and there little

greyish patches scattering the light instead of regularly reflecting

it, as does the surrounding liquid. These specks go on increasing

progressively and rapidly. This is the mycoderma aceti raised from

the seeds which the wine or the added vinegar contained, or which the

air deposited; just as we see a field covered with divers weeds by

seeds naturally distributed in the earth, or which have been brought

to it by the wind or by animals. Even in this last circumstance the

comparison holds good, for after you have put wine or vinegar in a

warm place there soon appear, whence we know not, little reddish

flies, so commonly seen in vinegar manufactories, and in all places

where vegetable matter is turning sour. With their feet, or with their

probosces, these flies transport the seed.

* * * * *

At Orleans the process for the manufacture of vinegar is very simple.

Barrels ranged over each other have on each of their vertically-placed

bottoms a circular opening some centimeters in diameter, and a smaller

hole adjacent, called _fausset_, for the air to pass in and out when

the large opening is closed, either by the funnel, through which the

wine is introduced, or by the syphon, which is used for drawing off the

vinegar. These barrels, of which the capacity is 230 litres, are half

filled. The manual labour consists in keeping up a suitable temperature

in the vessel, and in drawing from it every eight days about eight or

ten litres of vinegar, which are replaced by eight or ten litres of

wine.

A barrel in which this give-and-take of wine and vinegar goes on is

technically called a 'mother.' The starting of a 'mother' is not a

rapid process. We begin by introducing into the barrel 100 litres of

very good and very limpid vinegar; then two litres only of wine are

added. Eight days after, three litres of wine are added, a week later

four or five, until the barrel contains about 180 to 200 litres. Then

for the first time vinegar is drawn off in sufficient quantity to bring

back the volume of the liquid to about 100 litres. At this moment the

labours of the 'mother' begin. Henceforward ten litres of vinegar may

be drawn off every eight days, to be replaced by ten litres of wine.

This is the maximum that a cask can yield in a week. When the casks

work badly, as is often the case, it is necessary to diminish their

production.

This Orleans system has many drawbacks. It requires three or four

months to prepare what is called a 'mother,' which must be nourished

with wine _very_ regularly once a week under penalty of seeing it

lose all its power. Then it is necessary to continue the manufacture

at all times, whether the vinegar be required or not. To reconstitute

a 'mother,' one must begin from the very beginning, a process which

involves a loss of three or four months' time. Lastly--a condition

which is at times very inconvenient--a 'mother' cannot be transported

from one place to another, or even from one part of the same locality

to another. The 'mother,' in fact, must rest immovable.

Pasteur advised the suppression of the 'mothers.' He recommended an

apparatus, which is simply a vat, placed in a chamber the temperature

of which can be raised to 20° or 25° Centigrade. In these vats vinegar

already formed is mixed with wine. On the surface is sown the little

plant which converts the wine into vinegar. The mode of sowing it has

been already explained. The acetification begins with the development

of the plant.

A great merchant of Orleans, who had from the first adopted Pasteur's

process, and who had won the prize offered by the 'Society for the

Encouragement of National Industry' for a manufactory perfected after

these principles, has stated that at the end of nine or ten days,

sometimes even in eight, all the acetified wine is converted into

vinegar. From a hundred litres of wine he drew off ninety-five litres

of vinegar. After the great rise of temperature observed at the moment

of the formation of the vinegar, and which is caused by the chemical

union of the alcohol and the oxygen of the air, the vinegar is allowed

to cool. It may then be drawn from the vat, introduced into barrels,

refined, and straightway delivered, fit for consumption. When the vat

is quite emptied, and well cleaned, a new mixture is made of vinegar

and wine, the little plant is sown as before, and the same facts are

reproduced in the second as in the first operation.

* * * * *

In the vessels where vinegar is preserved, whether in the

manufactories, in private houses, or in grocers' shops, it often

happens that the liquid becomes turbid, and impoverished in an

extraordinary manner; it even ends in putrefaction, if a remedy be

not promptly applied. Pasteur has pointed out the cause of these

phenomena. After the alcohol has become acetic acid by the combustive

action of the mycoderm, the question remains, what becomes of the

mycoderm? Most frequently it falls to the bottom of the vessel,

having no more work to accomplish. This is a phase of the manufacture

which must be watched with care. It is shown by the experiments of

Pasteur that the mycoderma aceti can live on vinegar already formed,

maintaining its power of fixing the oxygen on certain constituents of

the liquid. In this case the acetic acid itself is the seat of the

chemical action--in other words, the oxygen unites with the carbon

of the acetic acid, and transforms it into carbonic acid, and as the

acetic acid has a composition which can be represented by carbon and

water, it follows that if the combustion is allowed to take its course,

instead of vinegar we have eventually nothing but water mixed with a

small proportion of nitrogenous and mineral matters, and the remains

of the mycoderm. We have thus an ordinary organic infusion exempt

from all acidity, and one which could not be better fitted to become

the prey of the vibrios of putrefaction or of the aérobic mucors. By

these mucors, moreover, which form a film on the surface of the liquid

after the mycoderm has fallen, the anaérobic vibrios, protected from

the action of the air, can come into active existence. Here we find

ourselves in presence of one of those double phenomena, of putrefaction

in the deeper parts of the liquid, and of combustion at the surface

which is in contact with the air. Nothing is more prejudicial to the

quality of the vinegar than the setting in of this combustion after

the vinegar has been formed, and when it contains no more alcohol. The

first materials of the vinegar upon which the oxygen transmitted by the

mycoderm fixes are, in fact, the ethereal and aromatic constituents

which give to vinegar its chief value.

Another cause of the deterioration of the quality of vinegar, which is

sometimes very annoying to the manufacturer, consists in the frequent

presence of little eel-like organisms, very curious when viewed with a

strong magnifier. Their bodies are so transparent that their internal

organs can be easily distinguished. These eel-like creatures multiply

with extraordinary rapidity. Certainly there is not a single barrel

of vinegar manufactured by the Orleans system which does not contain

them in alarming numbers. Prior to Pasteur's investigations, the

ignorance regarding these organisms was such that they were actually

considered necessary to the production of the vinegar; whereas they

are, on the contrary, most inimical to it, and must, if possible, be

got rid of. This is, moreover, rendered desirable by the repugnance

which is naturally felt to using a liquid defiled by the presence of

such animalcules--a repugnance which becomes almost insurmountable to

anyone who has once seen through a microscope the swarms contained

in a drop of vinegar. The mischief wrought by these little beings in

the manufacture of vinegar results from the fact that they require

air to live. The effect can easily be perceived by filling to the

brim a bottle of vinegar, corking it, and then comparing it with a

similar bottle half filled with the same vinegar, and left uncorked in

contact with the air. In the first bottle, the motions of the eel-like

creatures become gradually slower, until after a few days they cease to

multiply and fall lifeless to the bottom of the vessel. In the second

bottle, on the contrary, they continue to swarm and move about. This

need of oxygen is further demonstrated by the fact that, if the vinegar

reaches a certain depth in the bottle, life is suspended in the lower

parts, and the little eel-like organisms, in order to breathe more

freely, form a crawling zone in the upper layers of the liquid.

Connecting these observations with the other fact that the vinegar

is formed by the action of the mycodermic film on its surface, we can

understand at once that the mycoderm and the little eels continually

carry on a struggle for existence, since both of these living

things--the one animal the other vegetable--imperiously demand the same

aliment, oxygen. They live, moreover, in the same superficial layers, a

circumstance which gives rise to very curious phenomena. When, for one

reason or another, the film of mycoderm is not formed, or when there

is any delay in its production, the little eels invade in such great

numbers the upper layers of the liquid that they absorb all the oxygen.

The little plant has in consequence great difficulty in developing

itself or even in beginning its life. Reciprocally, when the work of

acetification is active, and when the mycoderm has occupied the upper

layers, it gradually drives away the eels, which take refuge, not deep

down, where they would perish, but against the moist sides of the

barrel or the vat. There they form a thick whitish scum all in motion.

It is a very curious spectacle. Here their enemy, the mycoderm, can no

longer injure them to the same extent, since they are surrounded with

air; and here they wait with impatience for the moment when they can

again take their place in the liquid, and, in their turn, fight against

the mycoderm. In Pasteur's process, where the vats are very often

cleansed, it is easy to keep them free from these little animalcules;

they have not time to multiply to a hurtful extent. Indeed, if the

operation be well conducted, they do not make their appearance at all.

* * * * *

Nearly all Pasteur's publications have had from the moment of their

appearance to undergo the severest criticism. Their novelty caused

them to clash with the prejudices and errors current in science. His

researches on fermentation provoked lively opposition. Liebig did not

accept without recrimination a series of researches which concurred in

upsetting the theory he had enunciated and defended in all his works.

After having kept silence for ten years, he published, at Munich, where

he was professor, a long memoir entirely directed against Pasteur's

results. In 1870, on the eve of the war, Pasteur, who was at that time

returning from a scientific journey into Austria, determined to pass

by Munich, with the view of attempting to convince his distinguished

adversary. Liebig received him with great courtesy, but, hardly

recovered from an illness, he alleged his convalescence as a reason for

declining all discussion.

Then followed the Franco-German war. Hardly was it terminated when

Pasteur brought before the Academy of Sciences at Paris a defence

of what he had published, as a sort of challenge to his illustrious

opponent. The memoir of Liebig was filled with the most skilful

arguments.

'I pondered it for nearly ten years before producing it,' he wrote.

Pasteur, putting aside all subtleties of argument, went straight to

the two objections of the German chemist which lay at the root of the

discussion.

It may be remembered that one of the most decisive proofs by which

Pasteur overthrew Liebig's theory resulted from the experiments in

which by the aid of mineral bodies and fermentable matter he produced

a special living ferment for each definite fermentation. By removing

all nitrogenous organic matter, which in Liebig's theory constitutes

the ferment, Pasteur established, at one and the same time, the life

of the ferment and the absence of all action of albuminoid matter in

process of alteration. Liebig here formally contested the fact that

Pasteur had been able to produce yeast and alcoholic fermentation in a

sweetened mineral medium by sowing therein an infinitesimal quantity of

yeast. It is certain that, ten years previously, when Pasteur announced

the production of yeast life and alcoholic fermentation under such

conditions, his experiment was one so difficult to perform that it

sometimes happened to Pasteur himself to be unable to reproduce it. The

cells of yeast sown in the sweetened mineral medium found themselves

often associated with other microscopic organisms, which were

singularly hurtful to the life of the yeast. Pasteur was at this period

far from being familiarised with the delicacy which such experiments

require, and he did not yet know all the precautions indicated later

on, which were indispensable to success. Though in his original memoir

of 1860 Pasteur had pointed out the difficulties of his experiment,

these difficulties existed nevertheless. Liebig took hold of them

with skill, exaggerated them; saw, so to speak, nothing but them; and

declared that the results announced never could have been obtained. But

in 1871 the fundamental experiment of Pasteur, on the life of yeast

in a sweetened mineral medium, had become a trifle for him. He knew

exactly how to form media deprived of all foreign germs, how to prepare

pure yeast, and how to prevent the introduction of new germs, which

could develop in the liquids and hinder the life of the yeast.

'Choose,' said he to Liebig, 'from the members of the Academy one or

several, and ask them to decide between you and me. I am ready to

prepare before you and before them, in a sweetened mineral medium, as

much yeast as you can reasonably ask for, and with substances provided

by yourself.'

Liebig's second objection had reference to acetic fermentation. The

process of acetification known as that of 'beech shavings' is widely

practised in Germany and even in France. It consists in causing alcohol

diluted with water and with the addition of some _millièmes_ of acetic

acid to trickle slowly into barrels or vats filled with shavings of

beech, either massed together without order or disposed in layers

after having been rolled up like the spring of a watch. Openings

formed in the sides of the barrel, and in a double bottom upon which

the shavings rest, permit the access of the air, which rises into the

barrel as it would in a chimney, and yields all or part of its oxygen

to the alcohol to convert it into acetic acid. All writers prior to

Pasteur, and Liebig in particular, maintained that the shavings acted

like porous bodies in the same manner as finely divided platinum. The

acetic acid, they said, was formed by a direct oxidation, without any

other influence than the porosity of the wood. This view of the subject

was rendered plausible by the fact that in many manufactories the

alcohol employed is that of distillation, which contains no albuminoid

substances. Moreover, the duration of the shavings is in a sense

indefinite.

According to Pasteur, the shavings perform only a passive part in

the manufacture. They promote the division of the liquid and cause

a considerable augmentation of the surface exposed to the air. They

moreover serve as a support for the ferment, which is still, according

to him, the mycoderma aceti, under the mucous form proper to it when

submerged.

Louis Pasteur: His Life and Labours · 第 6 / 18 段