“THE LOOKERS ON.” ... WHO CAME TO BE WARMED.
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Early in 1876 the actual hard work of the Commissioners began. During
the months of February, March, and April, they were kept busy day and
night, receiving, sorting, and arranging the goods forwarded for
exhibition. The Adams Express Company ran its wagons directly up to the
back door of the buildings, but as usual left all the packages on the
sidewalk. It was a goodly, a grandly beautiful sight, to behold the
Director General carrying huge packing boxes upon his shoulders while
the dew of honest toil coursed adown his noble brow, or to look upon the
great Orestes heaving bags and bundles to Willie Bigler, who stood in
the doorway and caught them on the fly. The boys of the District
Telegraph Company stood around watching the exhilarating sight, only
finding tongue in their admiring wonder to encourage the gentlemen with
kind remarks and well-meant advice. Many Foreign Commissioners were also
on hand during this time. To look upon their varied costumes was
suggestive of the grand army in a spectacular drama, with the managers
short of uniforms; to listen to their varied tongues was suggestive of
the building of Babel’s tower.
The daily travel to the Park and the vicinity of the buildings was
immense. Thousands hurried thither regularly to see what they could pick
up. Broken china, Japan ware, German silver, French glass, half Spanish
cigars--nothing came amiss.
[LODGINGS FOR SINGLE GENTLEMEN.]
The Market Street Passenger Railway Company reduced fares to five cents
to catch the bulk of the traffic. Next day the Chestnut and Walnut
Street line lowered their rates to four cents, carrying bundles free and
no questions asked. The Race and Vine Street Company, appreciating the
situation, carried passengers for three cents, presenting each one with
a chromo of the Bridge across the Delaware. This was but the beginning
of the famous tramway war, which continued with variations during the
entire Exposition. Before its close the Market Street line was paying
passengers seven cents apiece to ride with them, while the newly
established “People’s Line” presented each patron with four shares of
stock and a night’s lodging in their spacious depot.
But the city, ah, the city! It really seemed as if everybody who
proposed attending the Exposition had resolved to be present at its
opening. Every nook and corner, highway and byway, where a tired
stranger could rest his wearied head, was engaged, taken up,
appropriated; and those dilatory ones who delayed securing
accommodations (notably some of the most distinguished guests) were
obliged to pay the penalty of their procrastination.
Imagine it to be the month of May. According to a popular fallacy this
is the month of flowers and gentle zephyrs; according to Jayne’s almanac
it is a first-rate time to take one of his excellent remedies for
invigorating the system.
On the tenth day of this month the Exposition is to be opened. The city
has cut entirely loose from its Quaker traditions. It is clad in
banners, flags, garlands, arches, and emblems. Many private residences
are painted to represent the American flag; numerous clothes-lines offer
to the breezes various shaped streamers of red, white, blue, and
orange-colored flannel. All the lamp-posts have been silver-plated;
every telegraph pole has been varnished; every wire enamelled. For weeks
the inhabitants have not gone to bed. An ingenious invention in the
shape of an inflatable pocket-pillow enables them to take standing naps
against walls, buildings, and fire-plugs.
The guns at the Navy Yard continually herald distinguished arrivals. The
streets are thronged with citizens, tourists, American and foreign
officers and soldiers, the advance guard of every country to be
represented. ’Tis like an animated waxwork exhibition. Receptions,
banquets, and serenades are of hourly occurrence.
Many side streets are converted into airy lodgings. Families have rented
out their door-steps, charging double price when their door-mats are
used. A new industry has arisen, and hostlers are deserting the stables
to carry shaving water for, and attend to the visitors thus
accommodated. It is a common thing, on the way down town in the morning,
to pass an early riser making his toilette under difficulties, while a
lazier companion snores away complacently with his head against the
alley-gate.
The seventh day of the month was one to be remembered with pride
forever. Early in the day the Chevalier De Lafayette arrived with the
gentlemen of the French Commission and secured quarters at the “Guy
House.” In consideration of his ancestor’s great services, the
proprietor rated the Chevalier’s board at six hundred francs per diem,
and as a delicate compliment to his national feelings, assigned him an
apartment in the French roof. Before he departed the Chevalier
ascertained to his complete satisfaction why this hotel was called the
Guy House.
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On the evening after their arrival, a reception was tendered the
Chevalier and his companions by our citizens. Col. Fitzgerald was
selected to deliver the address of welcome on account of his Parisian
manners, the elegance of costume which distinguishes him from his
fellows, and for his general epileptic fitness. We give a report of his
speech copied from the “City Item” of the succeeding day. We are,
therefore, prepared to vouch for its correctness.
[LA BLESSING DE MON PERE.]
“_Messieurs_: God bless you all; you are noble men; we are all noble
men; a noble man’s the honest work of God. God bless Paris; God bless
Philadelphia--they are both noble cities! May He bless the _Champs
Elysées_; may He bless the _Column Vendome_; may He bless the _Hotel de
Ville_, and, _entre nous_, while we are upon this subject, God bless the
_Abattoir_. (Great applause.)
“_Parlez vous, Messieurs_ (laughter), I greet you all. I stand before
you a relic of the past--of a noble past--of a gigantic past--of
a--a--_sacre a la pain et fromage_ (increased laughter)--God bless the
past! (Cheers.)
“_Ate fif tesix five_: General Grant is a great man; he is a good man;
he is a noble man. In his name I bid you welcome. God bless General
Grant, our noble President, our Chief Executive. (Cheers and applause of
five minutes’ duration.)
“The press, _Messieurs_, the press! I represent that gigantic instrument
of civilization. I have a family devoted to the press. Should supplies
of printers’ ink give out, they would spill their dearest blood to keep
it running. _Je suis_, pardon me, _Messieurs_, if I pause to bless them
(cries of ‘do,’ ‘do’). God bless them all! _Ate fif tesix five._
(Immense applause.)
“I greet you as brothers, _eau de vie_. I have been to Paris. I have
visited the _Pont Neuf_. I have stood on that bridge at midnight, I have
gazed at the flowing tide, with the shining stars above me and my family
by my side. (Cheers.)
“I have walked along the _Champs Elysées_:--
“Noble walk!
“Glorious promenade!
“I have looked upon the _Column Vendome_:--
“Magnificent monument!
“Sublime creation!
“I have examined the exterior of the _Hotel de Ville_:--
“In short, _Messieurs_, I have been to Paris; ’tis no more than just
that you should come to Philadelphia. (Laughter and applause.)
“Philadelphia and Paris! (Cheers.)
“Paris and Philadelphia! (Cheers.)
“Noble cities!
“God bless you all. _Ate fif tesix five._ (Paroxysmal applause.)”
The Chevalier responded in very fair French. He was attired in his
national costume. He wore a Lyons velvet coat trimmed with Valenciennes
lace, a white Marseilles vest, and French _papeterie_ knee-breeches; his
hair was powdered with Paris white. Later in the evening the Commission
was serenaded by the German Singing Societies. They executed the
_Marseillaise_ with great spirit and effect.
[DIE WACHT AM DELAWARE.]
The same day the junk of Prince Kung, the Regent of the Orphan of the
Sun, the Child Emperor of China, arrived in the Delaware. The vessel was
brilliantly illuminated with Chinese lanterns, and a band of native
musicians discoursed sweet music from the forward poop upon their wooden
accordeons and pipes of reed. The Prince was a lantern-jawed sort of an
individual with a candle-wicked eye. He and his suite were met by a
delegation of laundrymen at Poplar Street wharf. Sam Wing, Esq.,
extended them an invitation to attend an opium banquet next day at the
hall of the Bedford Street Mission.
While this reception was in progress up town, the firing of guns and
ringing of bells announced the arrival of the Imperial German
Commission.
Fifty thousand German citizens lined Walnut Street dock and the floating
palaces in the vicinity, and no sooner had Prince Bismarck and his
comrades touched land, than they were lifted bodily into several of
Bergner & Engel’s beer wagons, which were in waiting. The crowd,
removing the horses from the wagons and the bungs from the kegs
provided, proceeded to draw both the wagons and the beer. Previous to
starting, however, Alderman McMullin, who had been delegated for the
pleasing duty by the German Society, spoke briefly as follows:--
“Respected Dutchmen: The proudest occasion of my eventful career is the
present--to be permitted to welcome to this new world, this republic of
an hundred years, the flower of the great German Empire under auspices
so favorable and inspiring. Not even when marshalling the once famous
‘Moya’ to do battle with the devouring element, consuming in its fury
the massive storehouse, the busy factory, the domestic hearth--aye, and
life, dear life itself--not even when the bullet of the assassin found a
resting-place within my weakened frame, did I experience the thrill of
sublime pride, the glorious impulse of friendship and common humanity,
which now animates my being. For know there is between us a bond of
sympathy which the boundless intervening ocean cannot sever. William is
my name, and it is likewise the name of my respected friend, your
honored sovereign. Like me, he is simple in his tastes; like me, he is
renowned for his courage and determination.
“I desire that you should carry home with you a high opinion of our
manners and institutions, and many, very many, pleasant reminiscences of
your visit. I trust we shall meet frequently and become quite sociable
during your stay. I invite you all to dine with me to-morrow.”
Prof. Max Müller responded, with the accent of a Latin grammar.
“Mr. Mickmullion, and gentlemen,” said he, “I thank you for this welcome
in the name of the Emperor, his Highness Prince Bismarck, my colleagues,
and myself. For years have I desired to visit this country for the
purpose of making a geological examination. During your eloquent remarks
I have taken the opportunity of analyzing a handful of the soil. To my
intense gratification I find it to average a conglomeration or
semi-crystalline gneissoid of dark brown hematite, or, perhaps, a
combination of barytes manganese with carbonate of strontia. You will
frequently notice that the debituminization of these silicious
formations will degenerate in quality--at times ferruginous layers of
volatile diorite form component parts. I have no doubt that you, Mr.
Mucksquillion, have frequently arrived at similar conclusions.
“So, again thanking you for your kind reception, I assure you I
appreciated the finish of your remarks.”
[OUR BOYS--FRITZ AND WALES.]
Prince Bismarck was then taken in charge by Archbishop Wood, who had a
hammock swung for him in the Cathedral. “Unser Fritz,” the Emperor, and
the commissioners were driven to the German Hospital. They declined
communication of any kind, save an underground communication with
Bergner and Engel’s Brewery. In the evening, however, they were
serenaded by the _Société Française_. “Die Wacht am Rhein” was sung with
much feeling.
On this eventful day the Hon. Morton McMichael presided professionally
at four banquets.
The day following this is also one to be looked back to with
gratification. The Irish Rifle Team arrived with the dawn, and was
greeted with a beautiful sunrise, very cleverly arranged by Professor
Jackson. The team acted as escort to the Prince of Wales and suite.
Since his return from India, the Prince had been in rather reduced
circumstances. Although scrupulously clean, his coat was somewhat
threadbare, and his beaver gave evidence of frequent brushing.
His Highness and suite were quartered at the house of the Spring Garden
Soup Society; the team secured accommodations at a first-class livery
stable.
These distinguished guests were received by General Franz Sigel, who
remarked that he was glad to see them looking so fresh and green; that
he liked fresh and green folks to come to this country. He advised them
all to come back when they went home and get naturalized. He said that
the ladder of Fame was waiting for Irishmen, and all they had to do was
to come and climb. He wanted them to carry home a good opinion and leave
as a remembrance the contents of their wallets. His remarks were
received with hearty cheers.
Wales suffered considerably during the trip over. He says the company of
the riflemen completely demoralized him. He might say he was half shot
when he was half seas over.
About noon the Spanish delegation arrived in Jersey city. They landed
from the ferry boat in high good humor. The commission, composed of the
_elite_ of Spanish chivalry, included the following distinguished
names:--
Senor Concha Maduro.
Don Felix Estra-Maduro (cousin of the above).
Count Flor Del Fumar.
His Highness Reina De Victoria, and
Don Regalia De la Palma.
These gentlemen proceeded quietly and unostentatiously to their rooms on
the seventh floor of the Colonnade Hotel. They were waited upon by the
leading cigar dealers of the city, who offered their spacious
establishment as headquarters.
Towards night the Duke of Gloucester and Red Bank arrived at South
Street wharf. He had an apartment reserved for him on top of the
Christian Street Shot Tower, to which he repaired at once.
Pere Hyacinth came on the same vessel, and was taken in charge by the
Horticultural Society. They lodged him cosily in the southeast corner of
the State-house steeple. He says he liked his lodgings very much, but
the rarefaction of the air was such that he could hear his watch ticking
all night long.
The Emperor of Brazil arrived at a very late hour and bunked temporarily
back of the main chimney of the Girard House.
[THE “ALMS HOUSE” REGISTER.]
The following guests registered at the Alms House.
Victor Emanuel of Italy, wife, three masters and three misses Emanuel.
Mr. Khedive, of Egypt, with seven Madames Khedive. Family left at home.
Professor Tyndale,--London.
Joseph II. of Austria, wife and mother-in-law.
General Von Moltke, Prussian Army. (He had unfortunately missed the
train which had brought his copatriots, and was very warm upon his
arrival.)
Mr. McMichael presided at seven banquets this day, at one of which he
read a telegram from Queen Victoria, accepting with thanks the
apartments kindly tendered her by Engine No. 10.
Next day, the 9th inst., the city’s pulsometer was at fever heat.
Brigham Young and family arrived from Utah per Centennial R. R. special
train, forty-four cars. Brigham said he wanted to give the little ones
an excursion. They were located under sheds at Point Breeze Park.
On this evening, too, a most remarkable event occurred. During the day
the City Solicitor of Philadelphia, who is also a military commander of
renown, in addressing a meeting of some of his contemporary warriors,
including Bismarck, Von Moltke, MacMahon, and others, remarked that he
would meet them upon the morrow at Memorial Hall, during the opening
ceremonies. Immediately a special meeting of city councils was convened,
and the following preamble and resolutions presented and unanimously
adopted.
“WHEREAS, An International Exposition was held at Vienna, in the year
1873; and WHEREAS, upon the day the City Solicitor of Philadelphia
carried into effect his predeclared intention of visiting said
Exposition the roof of the buildings fell in, doing great damage and
causing great excitement; and WHEREAS, the same City Solicitor has
announced his purpose of visiting our Centennial buildings to-morrow;
and WHEREAS, it is our bounden duty to provide against the occurrence of
any like disaster to our International Exposition, and especially from
the same cause which affected the Vienna affair, be it hereby
“RESOLVED, That the interests of the Exhibition demand the incarceration
of the individual above alluded to.
[ON ICE.]
“RESOLVED, That he be immediately placed in irons and confined in the
vaults of the Knickerbocker Ice Company until the close of the
Exposition.
“RESOLVED, That every attention be paid to him in his confinement, and
that the Knickerbocker Ice Company be allowed $93.77 per diem for his
support and the ice required to keep him cool.
“RESOLVED, That he be produced for one hour each Wednesday morning at
the Supreme Court Rooms, to deliver opinions on municipal affairs, that
the city may suffer no more than necessary from this unavoidable action.
“RESOLVED, That he be supplied with the ‘Times’ newspaper daily, and be
allowed unlimited rations of lemons, sugar, and whatever liquid he may
desire, to mix with his ice.”
At four o’clock in the morning, the subject of these resolutions was
awakened from his innocent slumbers and hurried into a Knickerbocker ice
wagon by detectives, with black masks over their faces. He struggled
bravely, but--_pro bono publico--principiis obsta_.
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