"Indeed, Senor, I cannot; and you must caution your father not to give a
hint to any one of what I have said, or the worst consequences may
follow. I rely on your discretion."
I promised to be cautious, and Ithulpo, saying that he would call me at
an early hour as I desired, left me. Tired as I was, I could not for a
long time go to sleep, but continued thinking of what Ithulpo had told
me, and trying to discover to what he alluded. I heard my father enter
his room, which was next to mine, but I would not run the risk of
depriving him of his night's rest by telling him of what I had heard.
As my object is not only to describe my own personal adventures, but to
present my readers with a picture of Peru as it was at the time I speak
of, I will now give a short description of Lima, the capital. Lima
stands on the river _Rimac_, from a corruption of which word its name is
derived. The valley through which the river runs is called by the
Indians _Rimac Malca_, or the place of witches; from the custom they had
formerly of banishing there persons accused of witchcraft. The city was
founded by Pizarro soon after the conquest. He there built a palace for
himself, in which he was assassinated by Almagro. He called his beloved
Lima, La Ciudad de los Reyes, from its being founded on the day of the
Epiphany. I always think of Pizarro with much more satisfaction when I
contemplate him engaged in the peaceful occupation of laying out the
city, and superintending the labours of the workmen, than when I regard
him as the blood-stained conqueror of a race who had given him no cause
of offence. He laid the foundation of the city on the 8th of January
1534, and was murdered on the 26th of June 1541.
Besides the river Rimac, which runs through the city, there are a number
of small streams, which add much to the cleanliness of the streets, and
serve to irrigate the gardens, and to feed the fountains and canals
which adorn them. The ground on which it stands slopes towards the sea;
the great square, or _plaza mayor_, near the centre, being about four
hundred and eighty feet above its level.
The climate is agreeable, as the heat is seldom very excessive; but as
there are several marshes and swampy places in the vicinity, fevers and
agues are common. In summer a canopy of clouds hangs over it, which
mitigates the heat of the sun; but rain very seldom falls throughout the
year. Earthquakes occur nearly every year, and some have caused most
devastating effects.
Lima is about two miles long from east to west, and a mile and a quarter
broad. The streets are all straight, and about twenty-five feet wide,
and there are no less than one hundred and fifty-seven _quadras_ or open
spaces. It is enclosed by walls built of _adobes_, sun-dried bricks
made of clay and chopped straw. These bricks are considered better
calculated than stone to resist the shocks of earthquakes. The walls
are about twelve feet high and ten thick at the bottom, narrowing to
eight at the top, with a parapet of three feet on the outer edge. It is
flanked by thirty-four bastions, and has seven gates and three posterns.
On the south-east is the citadel of Santa Catalina, with small guns
mounted on it. Across the Rimac is a bridge of stone with fine arches,
leading to the suburb of San Lazaro. This bridge is the favourite
evening resort of the citizens. There are a number of churches, with
handsome fronts of stone, and lofty steeples, which must be strongly
built not to be overthrown by the earthquakes.
Lima contained about 80,000 inhabitants, of whom 20,000 were whites, and
the rest negroes, Indians, and various half-castes. There were
sixty-three noblemen who enjoyed the title of count or marquis, and
about forty who were noble without titles. The Spaniards considered
themselves belonging to a race of beings far above the native Indians,
or even the Creoles; and would much more readily give their daughters in
marriage to a poor countryman of their own than to a rich American-born
person. The people of Lima are much addicted to gambling, especially
the higher orders; but public gambling-houses are not allowed. The
white inhabitants have sallow complexions, with little or no colour on
their cheeks. The ladies have generally interesting countenances, with
good eyes and teeth, and a profusion of black hair. The walking-dress
of females of all ranks is the _saya y manto_. The _saya_ consists of a
petticoat of velvet, satin, or stuff, generally black or of a cinnamon
tint, plaited in very small folds. It sits close to the body, and shows
the shape to advantage. At the bottom it is so narrow that the wearer
can only make very short steps. The skirt is ornamented with lace,
fringe, spangles, or artificial flowers. The ladies of higher rank wear
it of various colours, purple, pale blue, lead colour, or striped. The
_manto_ is a hood of thin black silk, drawn round the waist and then
carried over the head. By closing it before, they can hide the face,
one eye alone being visible, or sometimes they show only half the face.
A gay shawl thrown over the shoulders and appearing in front, a rosary
in the hand, silk stockings, and satin shoes, complete the costume. It
seems intended to serve the purpose of a domino, as the wearer can thus
completely conceal her features. At the present day, however, the
European costume has been generally adopted. They delight in possessing
a quantity of jewellery; but they appear to be still fonder of perfumes
and sweet-scented flowers, and spare no expense in procuring them.
The Indians who reside in Lima endeavour to imitate the Spanish Creoles
in dress and manners. They are chiefly engaged in making gold and
silver lace, and other delicate gold work; while some are tailors and
vendors of fruit, flowers, and vegetables.
The African Negroes are numerous, and, though slaves, are well treated
by their masters. Those of the same tribe or nation find each other
out, and form a sort of club or association, called a _Confradia_. They
generally hold their meetings in the suburbs on a Sunday afternoon. At
the time I speak of, there was an old slave-woman who had lived in a
family for nearly fifty years, and who was the acknowledged queen of the
Mandingoes. She was called Mama Rosa; and I remember seeing her seated
at the porch of her master's house, when a number of her black subjects
who were passing knelt before her, and kissing her hand in a true loyal
fashion, asked her blessing. Her mistress had given her a silver
sceptre, and the young ladies of the family would lend her jewels,
artificial flowers, and other ornaments; bedecked in which, on certain
days, she would be carried off by her subjects in great state, her
sceptre borne before her, to the house of the Confradia, where a throne
was prepared to receive her. Here she held a regular court, when as
much respect was shown her as to any sovereign in Europe. I shall have
to speak of her again.
The next morning at an early hour Ithulpo called me, and accompanied me
through the city. On my return I took an opportunity of telling my
father what I had heard. He treated the subject lightly, observing that
the Indians were very fanciful; at the same time, that he was anxious to
return home as soon as he could arrange the affairs for which he had
visited Lima. However I observed the following day, either from some
information he had received, or from something Ithulpo had said to him,
that he had begun to think more seriously of the matter, and he desired
me to make preparations for our departure.
While strolling out in the afternoon, I happened to pass the abode of
Mama Rosa, the black queen of the Mandingoes. A large crowd of negroes
were assembled before the door, decked in all the finery they could
command. They wore garments of all fashions and of every gay-coloured
hue imaginable--the women with wreaths of flowers round their heads, and
necklaces of coral and beads on their necks and arms. There were silk
coats a century old, and round jackets, and shirts, blue, red, yellow,
and white; and naval and military uniforms curiously altered to suit the
taste of the wearer--not an uncommon mode of wearing trousers being
round the neck instead of on the legs, with the upper part hanging down
the back, and the lower on either side in front like a shawl. Some
acted the part of guards of honour, and others appeared as ministers of
state. A select body bore a sort of _palanquin_ or litter, which they
placed before the door till Mama Rosa descended into the street, when
she was conducted with great ceremony to her seat in it. She was very
old and ugly; but her subjects did not love her the less for that. Her
dress was resplendent with flowers and jewels, and all the ornaments she
could hang about herself.
A band was in attendance, the instruments of which were somewhat
curious. The most important was a drum, made of a section of the trunk
of a tree, with the skin of a kid drawn over one end. Another was a
bow, the string being of catgut, which was struck with a small cane. A
third was the jaw-bone of an ass with the teeth loose in the socket, and
which, when struck by the hand, made a capital rattle. If there was not
much harmony in the music, there was plenty of noise, which was not a
little increased by the voices of a party of singers, who frisked about
before the sovereign's state carriage as she advanced. The
sceptre-bearer stepped out with her majesty's insignia of office in his
arms, looking back as he did so to ascertain that the queen was
following. Her people shouted, the palanquin-bearers moved on, the band
struck up a negro sort of "God save the Queen," and away they all went
towards the quarters of the Confradia. I followed to see the end of the
ceremony. After passing through a number of narrow and somewhat dirty
streets, with the houses built of bamboo and mud, we reached the palace,
for so I may call it. The hall was of good size, and the walls were
ornamented with what I suppose were intended for likenesses of other
sable monarchs. If they were correct, I am compelled to own that the
royal Rosa's predecessors, both ladies and gentlemen, were a very ugly
set of personages. The band played louder, and the people shouted more
vehemently, as her majesty ascended the throne at the end of the hall.
She seemed perfectly at home, and sat down with right royal dignity.
The sceptre-bearer presented the sceptre. She seized--it in her right
hand and waved it around to command silence. Her ministers of state
formed on either side of the throne, and doffed their cocked hats, or
straw hats, or hats with three corners, or their red caps, or whatever
covering adorned their heads. She then made them a speech, which I have
no doubt was much more original than the Queen's speech in England, but
as I did not know a word of the Mandingo language, I was not much the
wiser for it. When it was concluded, her Chancellor of the Exchequer
made a report of the financial condition of her kingdom, while her Home
Secretary described the good behaviour of her subjects, and her Minister
for Foreign Affairs assured her that she was on good terms with all her
neighbours. This part of the business being concluded, they squatted
down about the throne, and filling their pipes with tobacco, began to
smoke; while her other subjects, one by one, stepped forward, and
dropping on both knees, each one gave her hand a kiss, not bashfully as
if they were afraid of it, but with a hearty smack, which sounded
through the hall. Her ancient majesty in return bestowed a blessing on
them, and told them all to behave well; and especially to be contented
with their lot, if their masters and mistresses treated them kindly.
After the speech, all the people shouted, and the musicians struck up a
magnificent flourish with the drums, and the bows, and the jaw-bones of
the asses; and if there was not much harmony, there was a great deal of
enthusiasm. Several slaves then stepped forward, and preferred
complaints against their masters for ill-treatment.
The Queen listened to them attentively, and I thought seemed to judge
their cases very judiciously. To some she replied, that it was through
their own neglect of their duty that they had been punished. Others she
advised to bear their ill-treatment patiently, and to endeavour, by zeal
and attention to the wishes of their masters, to soften their tempers,
and to gain their good-will; but there were two or three who had been
treated so barbarously and unjustly, that she promised them that the
_Confradia_ should make every effort to purchase their freedom.
"You shall be freed," she observed; "but remember you will have to work
as hard as you have ever before done, to repay the _Confradia_ the money
they have advanced for your emancipation."
These were not exactly her words, but what she said was to this effect.
The serious business of the day being over, the negroes and negresses
set to work to dance; and though I cannot speak much of the grace they
exhibited, I never saw any human beings frisk and jump about with so
much agility. Who would have thought they were for the most part
slaves, groaning under their chains? Never did dancers enter more
thoroughly into the spirit of dancing. The black beaus did not waste
their time in talking or doing the amiable to their sable partners; nor
did the latter seem to expect any such attention--they came to dance,
and their great aim seemed to be to get through as much of it as the
time would allow. As I looked on I could scarcely refrain from rushing
into the sable throng, and joining them in their frisks and jumps;
though I dare say, had I done so they would have considered me a very
contemptible performer. At length the Queen's chamberlain clapped his
hands, and gave notice that the court must break up, as her majesty was
desirous of retiring to attend to her duties in putting to bed the
children of her mistress to whom she was nurse. The bearers of her
palanquin came forward, the Queen stepped into it, the sceptre-bearer
marched before it, the band struck up their loudest tune, the people
shouted till they were hoarse, and the procession returned in due state
to old Mama Rosa's abode; where, like Cinderella when the clock had
struck twelve, she was again converted into the old negro nurse.
I give but a very brief account of our return journey, which commenced
the next day, just in time to avoid the ill effects of an earthquake
which gave Lima a fearful shaking, we being, when it took place, in the
open country. For the latter part of our journey we rode on in perfect
silence. Ithulpo seemed as well acquainted with the road as I was. By
degrees the valley opened out, and the white walls of our house became
visible. With beating hearts we ascended the mountain. We reached the
court-yard and leaped from our horses. Well-known voices greeted us.
My mother rushed out, my brothers and sisters followed. All, though
becoming very anxious for our return, were well and in safety. Jose had
returned just before, but nothing would induce him to say what had
occurred to him. He asserted that he had been left behind by us from
his own wish, through illness, and that he was only just sufficiently
recovered to perform the journey home. Ithulpo declared his intention
of remaining three or four days, till he could hear from his chief what
he was to do; and of course, after the service he had rendered us, my
father allowed him to act as he thought fit. I have now to describe
some of the more eventful portions of my narrative.