HOPE REVIVES--LIMA AND ITS SCENES AND CHARACTERS.

As a shipwrecked seaman, on the wild rock in the middle of the ocean,

anxiously scans the horizon to search for a sail in sight, so did I cast

my eager gaze over the barren sandy waste, to discover if providentially

any succour was at hand. The shades of night melting away before the

rays of the sun, the wished-for oasis appeared in the distance; and by

the marks on the sand, I could not doubt that we had been wandering away

instead of approaching it. How eagerly I looked towards the spot where

I believed the means of reviving our fast-failing strength could be

found! As I gazed at it, it seemed to approach nearer, and tantalised

me the more that I knew that I could not reach it.

The sun rose slowly and majestically in the sky, and his burning rays

began again to strike down upon our heads. Still I kept my senses; but

I felt that death must soon terminate my dear father's sufferings, and

mine as well. Once more I cast my glance round the horizon. I gazed

steadily--I saw a dark object moving in the distance. O how earnestly I

watched it! I could not be mistaken--it was approaching us. As it came

on, I discerned the figure of a man on horseback. He was leading

another animal with a load on his back. Now he seemed to be verging off

to the right hand. He might pass and not observe us. I shouted; but it

was folly to fancy that my feeble voice could reach him. Again he

turned. I saw him dismount and stoop down on the sand. He stopped,

however, but a minute, perhaps not so much, though to me it seemed an

age, and he again mounted and came on. He was directing his course, I

judged, for the oasis. As he came still nearer, I recognised Ithulpo,

and he was leading our baggage mule. I could not doubt, also, but that

he was searching for us. Again I tried to shout, but my voice failed

me. I lifted up my hand and waved it above my head; but I could no

longer stand upright, or I should have attracted his attention. He rode

on. He had already passed, when he turned his head and caught sight of

the handkerchief I was waving in my hand. He spurred on towards us. To

spring from his horse, and to take one of the saddle-bags from the back

of the mule, was the work of a moment. From the saddlebag he produced a

skin of water. Without speaking, he poured out a cup, from which he

allowed a few drops to fall into my father's mouth. When once I felt it

to my lips, I could not withdraw it till I had drained it to the bottom.

The pure draught so much revived me that I could sit up and help

Ithulpo to tend my father. This he did with the greatest care; but

human care, alas! seemed to be of little avail. He loosened his dress

to admit of perfectly free circulation; he then washed his mouth, and

after bathing his temples, he allowed a few more drops to trickle down

his throat. This judicious treatment had, after a time, the most

beneficial effect. My father languidly opened his eyes, and attempted

to sit up; and I saw that his first act of consciousness was to turn

them towards me with an inquiring glance. Finding that I was alive, his

countenance brightened; and after slowly drinking some more water, in

the course of three or four minutes he revived sufficiently to propose

proceeding on our way.

"Wait a little longer, Senor," said Ithulpo. "Water has restored you to

life, but you require food to give you strength; see, I have brought

some."

As he spoke, he opened a basket full of bread and dried meat, and

several sorts of the most delicious and cooling fruit. There were figs

and grapes and pomegranates, fragrant chirimoyas, yellow bananas, and

several pine-apples; indeed many others too numerous to name.

Never shall I forget the exquisite delight with which I ate the first

fig Ithulpo handed to me. It cooled my burning thirst more than all the

water I had swallowed, and served both for meat and drink. It was a

large soft fig with a white pulp. I instantly put out my hand for

another, and he gave me a black fig with a red pulp, which vied with the

first in excellence. Then he handed me a bunch of juicy grapes, but I

still asked for more figs; and when I had finished as many as he thought

were good for me, he tore open a chirimoya, and let me eat its

snow-white juicy fruit. Outside it did not look tempting, for the skin,

though green, was tough and hard, and covered with black spots. The

platanos or bananas were cooked; and though I could not have swallowed a

piece of dry bread, I was enabled to eat some of them with much relish.

Altogether, never was a repast eaten with greater appetite, or, I may

add, with more gratitude; for it certainly was the means of preserving

my father's life as well as mine. Ithulpo had taken the precaution to

tether the animals, so that they could not escape; and as he sat by us,

distributing the food, he informed us of what he had done after we had

lost sight of him in the sand-storm.

"You must know, Senores," he began, "I was so busy in liberating my poor

countrymen from the ropes which bound them, that I did not observe which

way you were taking. I shouted after you to turn back, but you did not

hear me; and then the dreadful sand-cloud came on, and it was too late.

I am well acquainted with this dreadful desert, and I was aware that we

were out of the right path; but I also knew where that path was; so, as

soon as all the poor fellows were free, we set off towards it. They

were all well able to run without the ropes, and out of sight of our

tyrants. Fortunately the sand-cloud wheeled round before it reached us,

and we were safe.

"You must know that on the previous night I had stowed away the

wine-skins full of water in your portmanteaus, and I thus had enough to

give a good draught to each of the men, and to my beasts also. Our

first care was then to get out of the desert. I knew where the ground

was hard, so I led them to it, and we then could travel at a fast rate.

About a league beyond where we were, there is a fountain of pure water

gushing up out of a hard black rock. Here we were all able to refresh

ourselves; and still a little farther on, marks are to be seen, by which

I could direct my companions how to escape from the desert. They

quickly availed themselves of my advice, and are now on their way to

hide themselves among the mountains, where there is no fear of the

Spaniards searching for them."

"But what did you do, my friend?" I asked, stretching out my hand for

another bunch of tempting grapes.

"Just as I was parting from them I saw a party of fruit-sellers crossing

the desert, with several mules laden with fruit. I purchased some, as

also some bread and baked platanos, and then set off to search for you.

I knew, by the feel of the atmosphere, that there would be no more

sand-storms; and hoped, it you had escaped that of yesterday, to find

you. I know my way across any part of the desert blindfold, for I can

tell by the smell of the sand alone where animals have before passed.

As soon as it was daylight I returned to where I last had seen you. I

saw where the sand-cloud had settled down, forming huge mounds, beneath

which many of the Spaniards, I found, lay overwhelmed. At last I fell

in with the tracks of your two horses. I guessed they were yours, for I

thought the Spaniards would have kept together. I followed them up

steadily. I came to where you had found the Spanish officer, and given

him a pistol with which to defend himself."

"What, did he tell you so?" I asked, interrupting Ithulpo.

"Oh no; his voice has ceased for ever," he replied, with a dark smile.

"He had been dead some time, and the fowls of the air were feeding on

him; but I knew him by his dress, and I recognised your pistol, which he

had fired. Here it is. I next reached the spot where you dismounted,

and your horses had run away. I began to fear that I was too late to

save you; and when following up the track of your footsteps, I saw that

a number of the Spanish cavalry had escaped, and had gone towards yonder

clump of trees. Several have fallen in the way, as the wings of the

condors I could see flapping above the ground, one beyond the other,

told me plainly. And now, Senores, it is time to mount and proceed.

Two hours' riding beyond those trees will carry us free of the desert;

and may you never again enter it without a proper guide."

My father rode Ithulpo's horse; and while I clambered upon the back of

the baggage mule, he walked. It was almost as hot as on the previous

day; but I kept my mouth cool by occasionally eating a grape, and

sometimes one of my favourite figs; and with little suffering we drew

near the oasis.

"Are you not afraid of falling into the hands of the Spaniards, and of

being accused of liberating their prisoners?" I asked.

He looked up, and, smiling significantly, answered. "I tell you, Senor,

not one of our enemies live to bear false witness against us. I have

marked among yonder trees signs not to be mistaken of their fate."

I asked no further questions. We passed, as we rode along, several

bodies of horses and men; and as we approached the trees, Ithulpo

shouting with all his might, several condors rose slowly on the wing,

and a huge tiger stalked slowly away, looking round every now and then

at us with an angry glance, for having disturbed him at his repast. I

thought I recognised him as the monster who had paid us a visit during

the night; and I have no doubt that he was the same.

I can scarcely describe the dreadful scene which met our sight as we at

length reached the longed-for oasis. In the centre existed a small

shallow pool, filled by a stream which bubbled up through the earth. It

would allow scarcely more than a dozen horses to drink therein at a

time. We at once perceived what had occurred. The survivors of the

cavalry had reached it in a body. Some of the front ranks, both horses

and men, overcome by weakness, had, in their attempt to drink, fallen

in, and prevented the others from getting their mouths to it. The first

lay trampled on and drowned, making the once clear pool a mass of mud

and filth. The rear ranks, rushing over them, had died of raging

thirst, in sight of the water which might have saved them. Both men and

horses were mingled in a dreadful heap, torn and mangled by the birds

and beasts of prey. We crossed as rapidly as we could to the other side

of the oasis, where Ithulpo produced a skin full of clear water from one

of the saddle-bags.

"We must not disappoint our poor beasts," he observed, as he gave them

to drink.

Just then the horse my father rode gave a neigh. It was answered from a

distance; and to our no little satisfaction and astonishment, our two

horses were seen trotting up towards the oasis. They had evidently been

prevented taking shelter in the oasis by the presence of the tiger, but

had kept in the neighbourhood, in the hopes of his taking his departure.

Ithulpo at once enticed them to him by the offer of water, which they

drank eagerly; and having secured them, after allowing them to crop a

little of the grass which grew beneath the shade of the trees, we

mounted, and prepared to recommence our journey. As we left the now

polluted oasis, Ithulpo looked carefully round to examine the traces on

the sand, and declared that of all those who had reached the spot, not

one had left it.

"A just vengeance has overtaken the tyrants who yesterday so cruelly

ill-treated us, Senores," he remarked. "I knew it would be so. We may

now, without fear, proceed to Lima."

In two hours we reached the confines of the desert, and once more got

among streams, and trees, and cultivated fields. We slept that night at

an Indian village, where Ithulpo's influence procured us a warm

reception; and after a rest of two days, we proceeded on our journey to

Lima. As we rode along a fine straight road, shaded by an avenue of

lofty willows, peculiarly grateful in a hot climate, we at length came

in sight of the steeples and domes of the far-famed city of Lima, with

the blue ocean on one side of us, and the interminable ranges of the

snowy Cordilleras reaching to the sky on the other.

"What a magnificent city!" I exclaimed. "Well worthy, indeed, does it

appear of its great founder, the conqueror Pizarro."

"Wait till we get within the walls before you pronounce an opinion,"

remarked my father. "Like the deeds of the founder, it gains more

admiration when observed at a distance than when examined closely. We

admire Pizarro when we regard alone the wonderful conquest he achieved;

but when we learn the wrongs, the injustice, the misery he inflicted,

the blood he spilled, and the ruin he caused, he and his companions

appear monsters of iniquity, worthy of detestation rather than

admiration."

We entered the city by a handsome gateway, and immediately found

ourselves in a long street, with low, mean, ruinous houses on either

side. The houses had porches in front, and _patios_ or court-yards.

The shops were small, with their goods placed on tables at the doors;

there was no glass to the windows, and no display of articles of

commerce. The street was badly paved, though there was a rough footway

on each side. The walls of many of the houses were composed of double

rows of bamboo, but some were of brick; the roofs were flat, and very

few of the houses had two stories. As we rode on, however, the

appearance of the place improved; and in and near the principal square I

observed some fine buildings, with handsomely ornamented _facades_, and

many fine churches and convents; but altogether I had to own that the

outside beauty was sadly deceptive.

The streets were crowded with persons of every variety of costume, and

every hue of skin; from the people of Northern Europe, and the

bright-complexioned native of Biscay, to the red Indian and the

jet-black African. Some were on horseback, and others in carriages of

very clumsy and antique construction; and of the lower order, some were

riding on mules and donkeys, and others were driving animals laden with

ice from the mountains, skins of brandy, and fruits and provisions of

every description. Among this motley crowd we forced our way, till we

reached the house of my father's agent, a Spanish merchant, Don Jose

Torres de Santillan by name, a very honest and good man.

As the plan of his house was similar to that of most of the larger

dwellings in Lima, I will describe it. In what may be called the front

of the house were two doors; one, the _azaguan_, was the chief entrance,

and the other led to the coach-house. By the side of the _azaguan_ was

a small room with a grated window, where the ladies of the family were

fond of sitting to observe the passers-by. This building formed the

street side of a spacious court-yard or _patio_, on either side of which

were a number of small rooms, and on the farther side was the

dwelling-house, round which ran a balcony. In it were numerous doors;

the largest opened into the _sala_ or hall, which was furnished with

several net hammocks, a row of chairs, and two sofas; while

straw-matting covered the floor. Inside of it was a smaller

well-furnished room, called the _quadro_, which was the usual

reception-room; and beyond it were the dining and sleeping rooms, and

the nursery. They all opened into an inner court-yard, the walls of

which were ornamented with fresco paintings; and part of it was laid out

as a flower-garden, with a fountain in the centre. From it one door led

to the kitchen, and another to the stable. The windows were mostly in

the roof, as were those in Pompeii and many ancient cities; indeed it

was very similar to the plan of building followed in the south of Spain.

On hearing of our arrival, Don Jose hurried out and received us with the

greatest attention. Our animals were led off to the stables by a number

of servants, and we were conducted to the _quadro_, where he instantly

ordered refreshments to be brought. We begged leave in the mean time to

be allowed to change our dusty dresses. On our return we found hammocks

slung, in which our host invited us to rest ourselves. In a hot climate

there cannot be a more luxurious couch than a net hammock, as it allows

the air to circulate freely round the body in the coolest part of the

room. The softly-stuffed sofa of an English or French drawing-room

would be insufferable. A young negress slave then brought in a tray

with cups, into which she poured out some chocolate, making it froth up

till they overflowed, and then handed them round to us. Cigars were

next offered to us, and we smoked them till suppertime.

For this meal we adjourned to the dining-room, where our host insisted

on waiting on us. It was a repetition of dinner, which the family had

taken according to custom at two o'clock. The wife of Don Jose, and her

maiden sister and three daughters, pretty, palefaced, black-eyed girls,

with hair like the raven's wing, were present, as were the family priest

and two gentlemen, cousins of our host. We first had an insipid kind of

soup, and then their principal dish, called _puchero_. It contained all

sorts of meats and vegetables mixed up together--beef, pork, ham, bacon,

sausage, poultry, cabbage, _yuccas camotes_ (a sort of potato),

potatoes, rice, peas, _chochitas_ (grains of maize), quince, and banana.

The meat was brought in on one dish and the vegetables on another, and

they were afterwards mixed to suit our individual tastes.

At the same time a dish of _picante_ was served. It was composed of

dried meat and some pounded roots, highly seasoned with cayenne pepper,

and coloured with grains of the _achote_, which gave it a brilliant

vermilion tint. After the meat, a sort of pudding was brought in,

consisting of a great variety of fruits stewed in water,--a dish I

cannot praise; and then followed a dessert of delicious fresh fruits and

sweet cakes, which were washed down by a tumbler of fresh water. Such

is the usual dinner of a gentleman's family in Lima. A little light

sweet wine was the only liquor drunk, though in compliment to the

supposed taste of our countrymen, strong wine, brandy, and other spirits

were placed before us. After dinner the servant brought in a piece of

lighted charcoal and a tray of cigars, which the men and the elder

ladies smoked with much apparent relish; but my three fair friends

declined using them.

I soon became perfectly intimate with these young ladies. They were

troubled with no tiresome bashfulness to keep them silent, and they were

full of life and spirits; so we rattled away in conversation in the most

agreeable manner, till it was announced that some guests had arrived,

and were waiting in the _sala_ to commence dancing. Musicians appeared,

and, with much spirit, boleros, fandangos, and cachuchas, and other

dances, well-known in Old Spain, were commenced and kept up for some

hours. As we were in the height of the amusement, the cathedral bell

struck three slow measured sounds, the signal of the _Oration_. It was

repeated by the belfries of all the churches in the city. Instantly, as

if by magic, every movement was suspended. Each one said the evening

prayer in a low whisper, and then made the sign of the cross; those of

most consequence turning to the persons near them, uttering the words

_buenas noches_ (good night), which was repeated by all present. It is

a simple but beautiful custom, and is intended to remind people of their

duty to God in whatever occupation they may be engaged. It may often do

good; but unless people are possessed of the true spirit of piety,

custom will make them callous, and it will fail to have any beneficial

effect.

I have observed this custom in many other Roman Catholic countries. In

a public place full of people of different ranks, the effect is still

more curious. The lively conversation of the smart lady and the gallant

cavalier is cut short, the donkey-driver with uplifted arm ceases to

belabour his beast, the oath dies on the lips of the rough seaman or

uncouth black, the workman drops his tool, the shopman lays down his

measure, children refrain from their play, men quarrelling suspend their

dispute, lazy monks engaged in their constant game of draughts neglect

to make the intended move, vendors of fruit no longer utter their cries,

and one and all engage in silent prayer till the bell has ceased to

toll, and then in a moment the noise and bustle of active life once more

goes on.

When I retired to my room for the night, not a little tired with my

exertion, Ithulpo made his appearance.

"How long, Senor, may I ask, does your father purpose remaining here?"

"Some short time; a week or two perhaps," I replied, rather surprised at

his question.

He went to the door and looked cautiously out, and then, speaking almost

in a whisper, as if he were afraid the walls might convey the

intelligence, he said--

"You have a mother and sisters and young brothers at your home in the

mountains. As you love them, press your father not to remain here

longer than you can help. Two or three days at furthest is all you

should take, and then by travelling fast we may arrive in time. My

orders are to accompany you to your home; but I tell you that it shortly

will no longer be a place of safety for you or those you love. More I

may not say."

"You have already been of infinite service to us, Ithulpo; and I know

that you would not, without good reason, alarm us; but cannot you tell

me more particularly what sort of danger we have to apprehend?" I

asked.

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