To a Pint of Cream put a Gill of Canary-Wine, and two Ounces of Loaf-Sugar
finely beat, and a slice or two of Lemon; then with a clean Whisk, whip it
together, adding a little Milk, as it grows thick: then have your Glasses
clean, and put into each of them three or four spoonfuls of any sorts of
Wine, red in some, and white in others, sweeten'd with fine Sugar powder'd;
then fill your Glasses with the Froth of your Cream, as it is whipt up.
Of the fashionable Tables, for Persons of Rank, or Figure, where five
Dishes are serv'd at a Course. From _S.G._ Esq.
The Tables I shall speak of, are so order'd, as to save a great deal of
trouble to the Mistress of the Family, as well as to the Guests; for with
this Table every one helps himself, by turning any Dish he likes before
him, without interrupting any body. You must have first, a large Table with
an hole in the Middle, of an Inch Diameter, wherein should be fix'd a
Socket of Brass well turn'd, to admit of a Spindle of Brass, that will turn
easily in it. The Table I speak of, may be, I suppose, five or six Foot
diameter; and then have another Table-board made just so large, that as it
is to act on the Centre of the first Table, there may be near a foot
vacancy for Plates, _&c._ on every side. Then fix the Spindle of Brass in
the Centre of the smaller Table, which Spindle must be so long, as, that
when one puts it in the Socket of the great Table-board, the smaller
turning Table may be about four Inches above the lower Board; so, that in
its turning about, no Salt, or Bread, or any thing on the Places, may be
disturb'd. These Tables have Cloths made to each of them; the upper, or
smaller Table, to have an whole Cloth to cover it tight, and fasten'd
close, so that none of the Borders hang down; and the Cloth for the under
Table, or great Table, must have an hole cut in the middle of it for the
Spindle of the upper Table to pass thro' into the Brass Socket: and when
this is rightly order'd, and every necessary Furniture of the great, or
lower Table, set by every Plate; then the upper Table, which will turn, may
be furnish'd with Meats. It remains only then, in some Places, for the Lady
of the House, to offer the Soup; but after that, every one is at liberty to
help themselves, by turning the upper Table about, to bring what they like,
before them.
_I am Yours,_ S. G.
The Manner of killing and salting _Oxen,_ in the hottest Months, for the
Sea, that the _Beef_ may keep good. From a Contractor with the
Commissioners of the _Royal-Navy._
Sir,
I have often read your Books, and particularly your _Lady's Monthly
Director,_ relating to the Management of the several Products of a Farm,
but you have not taken notice of the Preservation of Flesh, as I expected.
I send this therefore, to inform you, that upon the setting out of a Fleet
in _June_, it was thought difficult to salt the Beef; but it was done, to
full Satisfaction, by the following Method.
We killed an hundred Oxen, in _June,_ towards the Close of the Evening, and
let them hang up whole, till the next Evening: then, when the Cool comes
on, cut out the Messes, and by every Stand have a Punchin of Brine, and
throw them into it as soon as they are cut, and in about three Minutes
after that, take them out, and salt them well. _Note_, These Pieces will by
these means lose their bloody Parts, in great measure, and be capacitated
to receive the Salt much better than otherways, and then put them up.
_Memorandum,_ We had not, out of all this quantity, above three Pieces
fail'd, though the Weather was extreme hot.
_Cheshire-_Pye with _Pork._ From Mr. _R. J._
Take some salt Loin of Pork, or Leg of Pork, and cut it into Pieces, like
Dice, or as you would do for an Harsh. If it be boiled or roasted, it is no
matter; then take an equal quantity of Potatoes, and pare them, and cut
them into dice, or in slices. Make your Pye-Crust, and lay some Butter, in
pieces, at the bottom, with some Pepper and Salt; then put in your Meat and
Potatoes, with such seasoning as you like, but Pepper and Salt commonly,
and on the Top some pieces of Butter. Then close your Pye, and bake it in a
gentle Oven, putting in about a Pint of Water, just before it is going into
the Oven; for if you put in your Water over Night, it will spoil your Pye.
To bake _Herrings_ in an extraordinary manner. From Mrs. _M. N._ of
_Shrewsbury._
Take fresh Herrings, and when they are scaled and cleaned, put them in a
glazed earthen Vessel, where they can lie straight; then put in as much of
the following Liquor as will cover them, _viz._ an equal quantity of fine
pale and old strong Beer, with Vinegar, which is the best, or else all
Vinegar, or as some do, put two parts of Vinegar and one of Water; any of
these will do well. Then put in some Bay-Salt, such a quantity as you think
will season it to your mind, and to that a tenth part of Salt-Petre, which
will not make it salt, but give it a fine relish: to these put two or three
Bay-Leaves, a bunch of sweet Herbs, some Cloves, or _Jamaica_ Pepper, and
some whole Pepper; then cover your Pan, and bake it in a quick Oven, with
Bread. These must be eaten cold; they are excellent for a Country
Breakfast, especially, if they are warm of the Spice, and if they are well
done, the very Bones will dissolve.
To draw _Gravey_ for a private _Family._ From the same.
Take some fleshy part of Beef, without Fat, and cut it in pieces about the
bigness of Pidgeons Eggs; then flour it well, and put it in a Sauce-Pan,
with a little fresh Lard, or a little Butter, a little Onion sliced, some
Powder of sweet Marjoram, and a little Pepper. Cover all close, and stir it
now and then till the Gravey is come out enough, and then pour on it some
Water, when the Gravey is brown, and stir all together, and let them boil
some time; then strain it off, adding a little Lemon-Juice.
Another _Gravey,_ for a private Family, where there is not an opportunity
of getting _Beef_ to make it of.
Take some Butter, and some Onion, cut small, put it in a Sauce-Pan, and set
it over the Fire till the Butter melts; then drudge in some Flour, and stir
it well, till the Froth sinks down, and then it will be brown; you must
then have ready prepared the following Mixture to throw in, _viz._ some
good old Beer, and as much Water, an Onion cut small, some Pepper and Salt,
a small Anchovy shred, a little Lemon-Peel grated, a Clove or two, and, if
you have it, a little Mushroom Liquor, or Liquor of pickled Walnuts; then
let them all simmer together a little while, and it will produce a thick
good Gravey.
The Manner of Trussing a _Rabbit_ for Boiling.
[Illustration: Fig. 1]
Cut the two Haunches of the Rabbit close by the Back-Bone, two Inches, and
turn up the Haunches, by the Sides of the Rabbit; skewer the Haunches
through the lower Part of the Back, as at A; then put a Skewer through the
utmost Joint of the Leg at B, and so through the Body, and through the
other Leg, so that the end of the Leg reaches the Shoulder-Blade. Then
truss up the Shoulders high, and let the Pinnions be carried back, to take
the Legs at B, and lie between them and the Body; and under the height of
the Pinnions, put a Skewer, and bend the Neck backwards, and pass the
Skewer through all, at C, so that it supports the Blade-Bone, and holds the
Head up.
The Manner of Trussing a Single _Rabbit_ for Roasting. From Mr. _W. N._
Poulterer.
[Illustration: Fig, 2 ]
You case the Rabbit all, excepting the lower Joints of the four Legs, and
those you chop off: then pass a Skewer through the middle of the Haunches,
after you have laid them flat, as at A; and the Fore-Legs, which are called
the Wings, must be turn'd, as at B; so that the smaller Joint may be push'd
into the Body, through the Ribs. This, as a single Rabbit, has the Spit
pass'd through the Body and Head, but the Skewer takes hold of the Spit to
preserve the Haunches. But to truss a couple of Rabbits, there are seven
Skewers, and then the Spit passes only between the Skewers, without
touching the Rabbits.
To make a _Pheasant_ of a _Rabbit,_ truss'd in such a manner, that it will
appear like a _Pheasant,_ and eat like one, with its Sauce. This is called,
by the topping _Poulterers,_ a _Poland-Chicken,_ or a _Portugal-Chicken._
But it is most like a _Pheasant,_ if it is larded. From Mrs. _Johnson,_ at
the famous Eating-House in _Devereux-Court_ near the _Temple._
[Illustration: Fig. 3]
Take a young Rabbit full grown; case it all, excepting the Fore-Feet, chop
off them, and the Head, as close as may be, but strip the Skin from the
hind Legs, even to leave the Claws on them. These Claws are not unlike the
Claws of a Pheasant, and some good Judges may be deceiv'd by their first
Look, for they are little different from the Legs of the Fowls we design to
imitate. Then turn the Neck-part of the Rabbit, the Breast inwards, to the
Scut or the Rump, leaving the Rump somewhat short, but to appear; then will
the Rabbit appear in the Shape above, _viz._ B is the Scut, or Rump, of the
Rabbit, and C is where the Neck comes; then will the Part mark'd F, appear
like the Breast of a Fowl: but you must put up the stript Legs of the
Rabbit, over each side of the Neck of it, and tie all together, with a
String, as mark'd H H. So will the Hind-Legs of the Rabbit appear like the
Legs of a Fowl, and where you see the Letter G mark'd, the Back of the
Rabbit is broken. D, is what represents the Back-Side of the Fowl, and E is
the Appearance of the Wings, which are supposed to be stuck into the Back,
where two large Orifices are made, but the Bones of the Wings, of the
Rabbit, must be taken out. A, shews the Legs as they ought to be tied, and
O O Directs to the Points of the Skewers which are to run through it.
[Illustration: Fig. 4]
Fig. 4. will shew you the Back of the same, when it is truss'd, with the
Appearance of the Skewers, o, o, o, o, with the Orifices, wherein are the
supposed Bones of the Wings. If this is larded on the Breast, I think it
best, and it should be served with the following Sauce, if it is roasted.
When this is thus prepared, you may stick a Pheasant's Tail-Feather at the
Scut, and roast it as you would do a Pheasant, basting it well with Butter,
after it is drudg'd well with Flour; then make the following Sauce for it.
Take some strong Gravey, and put a little Lemon-Peel into it, with some
Spice, and a little Wine; then take a few Buttons of Mushrooms pickled, and
thicken it with burnt Butter, so that the Sauce becomes like one fit for a
Ragout, or _Ragoo_, as the _English_ pronounce it. Pour this over the Fowl
or Rabbit, which you please to call it, and serve it hot, with a Garnish of
Lemon sliced, and pickled Red Beet-Roots sliced.
Of Trussing a _Pidgeon._ From the same.
[Illustration: Fig. 5]
Draw it, but leave in the Liver, for that has no Gall; then push up the
Breast from the Vent, and holding up the Legs, put a Skewer just between
the bent of the Thigh and the brown of the Leg, first having turn'd the
Pinnions under the Back: and see the lower Joint of the biggest Pinnions,
are so pass'd with the Skewer, that the Legs are between them and the Body,
as at A.
A _Goose_ to Truss. From the same.
[Illustration: Fig. 6]
A Goose has no more than the thick Joints of the Legs and Wings left to the
Body; the Feet, and the Pinnions being cut off, to accompany the other
Giblets, which consist of the Head and Neck, with the Liver and Gizzard.
Then at the bottom of the Apron of the Goose A, cut an hole, and draw the
Rump through it; then pass a Skewer through the small part of the Leg,
through the Body, near the Back, as at B; and another Skewer through the
thinnest part of the Wings, and through the Body, near the Back, as at C,
and it will be right.
The Trussing of an _Easterling._ From Mr. _W. N._ Poulterer of St.
_James's-_Market_, London._
[Illustration: Fig.7]
A Duck, an Easterling, a Teal, and a Widgeon, are all trussed in the same
manner. Draw it, and lay aside the Liver and Gizzard, and take out the
Neck, leaving the Skin of the Neck full enough to spread over the Place
where the Neck was cut off. Then cut off the Pinnions at A, and raise up
the whole Legs, till they are upright in the middle of the Fowl B, and
press them between the stump of the Wings, and the Body of the Fowl: then
twist the Feet towards the Body, and bring them forwards, with the bottom
of the Feet towards the Body of the Fowl, as at C. Then take a Skewer, and
pass it through the Fowl, between the lower Joint, next the Foot, and the
Thigh, taking hold, at the same time, of the ends of the stumps of the
Wings A. Then will the Legs, as we have placed them, stand upright. D is
the point of the Skewer.
The Manner of Trussing a _Chicken_ like a _Turkey-Poult,_ or of Trussing a
_Turkey-Poult._ From. Mr. _W. N._ Poulterer of St. _James's-_Market.
[Illustration: Fig. 8]
Take a Chicken and cut a long slit down the Neck, on the Fore-part; then
take out the Crop and the Merry-Thought, as it is call'd; then twist the
Neck, and bring it down under the Back, till the Head is placed on the side
of the Left-Leg; bind the Legs in, with their Claws on, and turn them upon
the Back. Then between the bending of the Leg and the Thigh, on the Right
side pass a Skewer through the Body of the Fowl; and when it is through,
run the Point through the Head, by the same Place of the Leg, as you did
before, as at A: you must likewise pull the Rump B through the Apron of the
Fowl. _Note,_ The Neck is twisted like a Cord, and the boney part of it
must be quite taken out, and the Under-Jaw of the Fowl taken away; neither
should the Liver and Gizzard be served with it, though, the Pinnions are
left on. Then turn the Pinnions behind the Back, and pass a Skewer through
the extreme Joint, between the Pinnion and the lower Joint of the Wing,
through the Body, near the Back, as at C, and it will be fit to roast in
the fashionable manner. _N.B._ Always mind to beat down the Breast-Bone,
and pick the Head and Neck clean from the Feathers before you begin to
truss your Fowl.
A Turkey-Poult has no Merry-Thought, as it is called; and therefore, to
imitate a Turkey the better, we take it out of a Chicken through the Neck.
[Illustration: Fig 9]
Fig. 9. Shews the Manner how the Legs and Pinnions will appear when they
are turn'd to the Back; as also, the Position of the Head and Neck of the
Chicken, or Turkey-Poult.
The manner of Trussing an _Hare_ in the most fashionable Way. From Mr. _W.
N._
[Illustration: Fig. 10]
Case an Hare, and in casing it, just when you come to the Ears, pass a
Skewer just between the Skin and the Head, and by degrees raise it up till
the Skin leaves both the Ears stript, and then take take off the rest as
usual. Then give the Head a Twist over the Back, that it may stand, as at
A, putting two Skewers in the Ears, partly to make them stand upright, and
to secure the Head in a right Disposition; then push the Joint of the
Shoulder-Blade, up as high as may be, towards the Back, and pass a Skewer
between the Joints, as at B, through the bottom Jaw of the Hare, which will
keep it steady; then pass another Skewer through the lower Branch of the
Leg at C, through the Ribs, passing close by the Blade-Bone, to keep that
up tight, and another through the Point of the same Branch, as at D, which
finishes the Upper-Part. Then bend in both Legs between the Haunches, so
that their Points meet under the Scut, and skewer them fast, with two
Skewers, as at O O.
A Fowl trussed for Boiling. From Mr. _W. N._ Poulterer, &c.
[Illustration: Fig. 11]
When it is drawn, twist the Wings till you bring the Pinnion under the
Back; and you may, if you will, enclose the Liver and Gizzard, one in each
Wing, as at A, but they are commonly left out. Then beat down the Breast
Bone, that it does not rise above the fleshy Part; then cut off the Claws
of the Feet, and twist the Legs, and bring them on the out-side of the
Thigh, towards the Wing, as at B, and cut an Hole on each side the Apron,
just above the Sides-man, and put the Joints of the Legs into the Body of
the Fowl, as at C: so this is trussed without a Skewer.
To Truss a _Pheasant_ or _Partridge._ From the same.
[Illustration: Fig. 12]
Both the Pheasant and Partridge are trussed the same way, only the Neck of
the Partridge is cut off, and the Neck and Head of the Pheasant is left on:
the Plate above shews the Pheasant trussed. When it is drawn, cut off the
Pinnions, leaving only the stump-bone next the Breast, and pass a Skewer
through its Point, and through the Body near the Back, and then give the
Neck a turn; and passing it by the Back, bring the Head on the outside of
the other Wing-Bone, as at A, and run the Skewer through both, with the
Head landing towards the Neck, or the Rump, which you please: B is where
the Neck runs. Then take the Legs, with their Claws on, and press them by
the Joints together, so as to press the lower Part of the Breast, then
press them down between the Sides-men, and pass a Skewer through all, as at
C. Remember a Partridge must have its Neck cut off, or else in every thing
is trussed like a Pheasant.
To boil an artificial _Pheasant,_ with _Sellary._ From Mrs. _Johnson,
Devereux-Court_ near _Temple-Bar._
Prepare a Rabbit in the same manner as above directed, only it must not be
larded; then boil it, and give it the following Sauce. Take six or seven
Roots of Sellary, and boil them, when they are well clean'd from Dirt, till
they are tender, then cut them into pieces of about two Inches long, and
toss them up with strong Gravey thicken'd with burnt Butter. Pour this over
the artificial Pheasant, and serve it hot, well impregnated with Spice.
Then garnish it with Lemon sliced, or sliced Orange, and some fry'd Bread,
and some Slices of pickled red Beet-Roots; or round the Edges of the Dish,
strew some sifted raspings of Bread.
_THE END._
* * * * *