The _Ortolan_ is a Bird brought from _France_, and is fed in large Cages
with Canary-Seeds till they become a lump of Fat; and when they are fully
fatted, they must be killed, or else they will feed upon their own Flesh.
When we kill them, you must take them by the Beak, and holding it close
between your Finger and Thumb, the Bird will be stifled in about a Minute;
then pick off the Feathers even those of the Head, and pass a fine Skewer
through them, just under the Wings, and roast them quick; setting small
Toasts under them to drip upon. Serve them with strong Gravey, and as much
White Wine hot, and garnish with Slices of Lemon and Raspings of Bread
sifted and toasted before the Fire.
To make _Sugar Comfits_ of any Sort. From Mrs. _Anne Shepherd_ of
_Norwich._
The Seeds which we generally make Comfitts of, are Carraways, Coriander and
Anise-Seeds; these, when they are cover'd with Sugar, are call'd Comfits,
(_Confects_).
The Instruments to be employ'd for this Use, are first a deep-bottom'd
Bason of Bell-Metal, or Brass, well tinn'd, to be hung over some hot Coals.
Secondly, You must have a broad Pan to put hot Coals in.
Thirdly, Provide a Brass Ladle to pour the Sugar upon the Seeds.
Fourthly, You must have a Brass Slice to scrape off the Sugar that may
chance to hang upon the side of the hanging Bason.
Then take care that your Seeds are dry, or dry them well in your hanging
Pan.
To every quarter of a Pound of Seeds use two Pounds of fine Sugar beaten;
unless to Anise-Seeds, use two Pounds of Sugar to half a Pound of Seeds.
To begin the Work, put three Pounds of fine Sugar into the Bason with one
Pint of Water, to be stirr'd well together till the Sugar is wet; and boil
it gently, till the Sugar will rope from the Ladle like Turpentine, and it
is enough. Keep this however warm, upon warm Embers, that it may run.
freely in a ropy Way from the Ladle upon the Seeds.
When this is ready, move the Seeds briskly in the Bason, and fling on them
half a ladle-full at a time of the hot Sugar, keeping the Seeds moving for
some time; which will make them take the Sugar the better, and be sure to
dry them well after every covering, by moving the Bason, and stirring the
Comfits. In an Hour, you may make three Pounds of Comfits: you will know
when they are coated enough with Sugar, by their becoming as large as you
would have them. There is no certain Rule, but our own Fancies, for the
Size of them. _Note_, Till they are as you would have them, cast on more
melted Sugar, as at first, and keep them stirring and shaking in the Pan,
drying them well after every Coat of Sugar.
If you would have ragged or rough Comfits, make your Sugar so liquid, that
it will run from the Ladle; and let it fall upon the Seeds about a Foot and
a half high. Let it be very hot, for the hotter it is, the rougher will be
your Comfits; and for all that, the Comfits will not take so much Sugar as
one may imagine from their Appearance. Put on at each time only one
Ladle-full, and in ten times repeating it your Comfits will be perfectly
well coated.
For plain Comfits; let not your melted Sugar be too hot at first, nor too
thick; neither pour it on the Seeds too high: but the last two or three
Coverings may be thicker and hotter.
As for Coriander-Seeds, which are large, three Pounds of Sugar will only
cover a quarter of a Pound of them.
While your are at work, you should keep your melted Sugar in good Temper,
that it may not gather into Lumps, or burn to the bottom of the Pan; and to
prevent its growing too thick at any time, put to it a spoonful or two of
Water, gently stirring it now and then with your Ladle, keeping your Fire
very clear under your Pan. When your Comfits are made, put them upon Papers
in Dishes, and set them before the Fire, or in a declining Oven, which will
make them look of a Snow white; when they are cool, put them in Boxes, or
in crystal Bottles.
To make _Comfits_ of various Colours. From the same.
If you would have your Comfits of a red Colour, infuse some red Saunders in
the Water till it is deep colour'd enough; or else take some Cochineel, and
infuse it till the Liquor is red enough; or put some Syrup of Mulberries
with Water to the Sugar.
If of a yellow Colour; use Saffron in Water, which you are to mix with the
Sugar.
If Green; take the Juice of Spinach, and boil it with the Sugar: so will
your Comfits be of the several Colours above-mention'd.
To preserve _Orange_ and _Lemons-Peels_ in Jelly. From the same.
Cut some of the fairest Oranges and Lemons in halves; then scoop out all
the Pulp and Inside, and boil them in several Waters till they are so
tender, that you may pass a Straw through them; then wash them in cold
Water.
Boil then the following Preparation: _viz._ The Quantity of a Quart of
Water to every Pound of Peel; and in it some thin Slices of Golden-Pippins,
or Golden Rennets, till the Water becomes slippery. Then to this Water, add
as much Sugar as will boil it to a strong Syrup; then put in your Peels and
scald them, and set them by till the Day following, and boil them again
till the Syrup will jelly. Then put your Peels into your Glasses, and put
into your Syrup the Juice of three large Oranges, and one Lemon strain'd,
and boil it till it will make a stiff Jelly, and pour it upon your Peels.
When this is quite cold, then put Papers over the Glasses, and keep them in
a dry Place.
You may also pare the Rinds, in Rings or Slices, and boil them as before;
and in every respect treat them as you are directed to preserve the halves
of Oranges.
To preserve _Orange-Flowers_ in Jelly.
Gather your Orange-Flowers, in the Morning early, when they are just open,
and take the Leaves of them. Boil these gently in two or three Waters,
passing them every time through a Sieve: shift the Waters often, to take
out the too great bitterness, but don't boil them too soft, nor to lose
their Whiteness. When this is done, make a strong jelly'd Syrup with Water
and fine Sugar, and add some Juice of Lemon or Orange to it; then pour it
on the Leaves of the Orange-Flowers; and when it is cold, cover your
Glasses with Paper. _N.B._ You may thicken your Syrup with the Pulp of
Pippins.
_Lemon-_Cakes. From Mrs. _Anne Shepperd_ of _Norwich._
Take out the Pulp of Lemons, as little bruis'd as possible; then boil some
Sugar to a candied height, and put to it the Pulp and Juice, and stir it
quickly; then put it into a Stove or into hot Sand. When you observe that
it begins to candy on one side, then turn them out of the Glasses with a
wet Knife on the other side, and let that candy too, in the same manner;
when all is done, put them in a Box between Papers, and keep them in a dry
Place.
_Tripe_ of _Eggs._ From Mr. _Fontaine._
Take the Whites of Eggs, and beat them very well in a Porringer; prepare
then some hot Water and Vinegar with a little Salt, and then put in the
Eggs, till they are hard; then cut them in pieces about an Inch square, and
then take some White Wine, and as much Water and some Salt. Put this in a
Pan, and heat it over the Fire with a little Parsley, an Onion and some
Spice; when it is hot, serve it up with Butter and Mustard, and it will eat
like Tripe: or else you may serve it like a Ragoust, with the following
Sauce; _viz._
Sauce for the Artificial _Tripe_ in _Ragoust._ From the same.
Take strong Gravey made of Beef, and the Ingredients which are mention'd in
the drawing of Gravey. Warm it with a little White Wine, and thicken the
Sauce with burnt Butter: then, when the Eggs are warm'd, pour the Sauce
over them.
_Bacon Froize,_ or _Fraise._ From Mrs. _Bradbury._
Cut fat Bacon in small Pieces, about an Inch long, and then prepare ten or
a dozen Eggs well beat; put in a little Milk, some Spice, at pleasure, and
some Flour; then put some Lard or Seam of an Hog into a Pan, and make it
very hot; and when it is so, pour in the Mixture, and clap a dish over it,
after you have thrown some of the Seam upon it. When the Froize is done
enough on one side, turn it with the Dish, and fry it till it is quite
enough. Then serve it with a garnish of sliced Lemons and a little Butter,
first letting it drain.
_Clary_ and _Eggs,_ From the same.
Take eight or ten Eggs; beat them well in a Porringer; then take some Clary
Leaves, and chop them small; add a little Pepper and Salt, and some Onion
chopt small. This Mixture must be fry'd in hot Lard or Hog-Seam, and serve
it with Slices of Lemon.
To stew a _Pig._ From the same.
Roast a Pig till it is hot; then take off the Skin and cut it in pieces;
then take some White Wine and good Gravey, and stew it with an Onion, some
Pepper, Salt, some Nutmeg, a little sweet Marjoram, and some Elder Vinegar,
with some Butter; and when it is enough, lay it upon Sippits, and garnish
with sliced Lemon.
To stew a _Pig_ another way. From the same.
Roast a Pig till you can take off the Skin; cut it then in small pieces,
and stew it in White Wine, with a bunch of sweet Herbs, an Onion, some
Pepper and Salt, a few Cloves, or a little sweet Marjoram powder'd. When it
is enough, strain off the Liquor it was boil'd in, and in some of that put
some Mushrooms, and thicken it with Cream, and it will make an excellent
Dish. You may garnish it with sliced Lemon and pickled Barberries.
To make a _Fricassee_ of Sheeps Trotters.
Clean them very well from the Hair; then wash them in Vinegar and Water;
then take out the Bones, and boil them in Salt and Water with a little
Lemon-Peel. When they are hot, give them either of the following Sauces.
For a white Sauce, take the following: _viz._
Take some Water, with some Salt, a few sweet Herbs, some whole Pepper, some
Lemon-Peel and a bit of Horse-Radish, a Shallot, and a little White Wine.
When it is strong enough relish'd, then strain it off, and take a little of
it, and mix it with Butter to thicken it, or Cream would do better, about
half a Pint: pour this over the Sheeps Trotters with a few Capers, and
serve it up with Slices of Lemons.
A brown _Fricassee_ of Sheeps Trotters.
Dress them as before, and when they are fit for Sauce, then take some Hogs
Lard, and make it very hot in a Pan, then put in your Trotters, when they
are well covered with Flour, and when they are done enough, pour over them
a Sauce made of Gravey, some Claret and some Mushrooms thickned with burnt
Butter. This will make a good brown Fricassee; and serve it up with a
garnish of Lemon sliced, Barberries pickled, some raspings of Bread lifted,
and toasted before the Fire.