When your Onions are dry enough to be laid up in the House, take the
smallest of them, such as are about the bigness of a small Walnut, and of
that sort which we call the _Spanish_ Onion, for these are not so strong
flavour'd as the _Strasburgh_ Onions; take off only the outward dry Coat,
and boil them in one Water without shifting, till they begin to grow
tender; then take them off the Fire, lay them in a Sieve or Cullendar to
drain and cool; and as soon as they are quite cold, take off two other
Coats or Skins from each, and rub them gently in a linnen Cloth to dry.
When this is done, put them into wide-mouth'd Glasses, with about six or
eight fresh Bay-leaves to a Quart, a quarter of an Ounce of Mace, two large
Rases of Ginger sliced. All these Ingredients must be interspersed here and
there in the Glasses among the Onions, and then boil your Vinegar with
about two Ounces of Bay-Salt to each Quart, taking off the Scum as it
rises, and letting it stand to be cold; pour it into the Glasses, and cover
them close with wet Bladders, and tie them down; they will eat well, and
look very white.
About the end of this Month, if the Season has been tolerable, the Grapes
in our _English_ Vineyards will be ripe, and then we must be careful to
gather them in dry Weather, that the Wine may keep the better. I have
already mention'd, in my other Works, the curious Vineyard near _Bath_, and
that belonging to Mr. _John Warner_ at _Rotherhith_, where good Wines are
made every year; and also that at _Darking_ in _Surrey_, belonging to Mr.
_Howard_, which is a very good one: but as some years are less favourable
than others to the Grape, as well with us as abroad, it will not be
unnecessary to take notice of a few Particulars, which I have observ'd this
year 1726, concerning the management of Vines, which I have only
communicated to a few. I shall also set down a few Directions for the
making of Wine, which have not been hitherto mention'd in any of my Works,
or by Mr. _Evelyn_, or Mr. _Mortimer_.
As to the first, we are to observe, that the Situation of our Island
occasions our Seasons to be more uncertain than on the Continent, or
between the Tropics. The cold and wet Summer, 1725, prevented the ripening
of our later kind of Grapes; and indeed I did not meet anywhere with a
Grape that had its perfect Flavour, unless the Vines were forced; but yet
there were abundance. However, this Year, 1726, on the contrary, there are
very few Grapes, and those are likely to be very good, some being already
ripe against common Walls, without Art; such as the white Muscadine the
24th of _July_, and black Cluster-Grape. And at Sir _Nicholas Garrard_'s
Garden in _Essex_, I eat some of the black _Frontiniack_ full in
perfection, at the same time; and then the grisly and white _Frontiniack_
Grapes, which are the latest kinds, were transparent, and within a little
of being fit to gather: which is a Novelty so great, that has not been
observ'd in _England_ in my time; for the _Frontiniack_ Grapes seldom ripen
till the end of _September_, and then in a bad Year we cannot expect them
without Art. However, the Vines in this worthy Gentleman's Garden are of
long standing, and have been, by his own Directions, order'd and manag'd in
a very artful manner for several Years. And tho' this Year generally we
find so small a quantity in other Gardens, yet at this place there are as
many as I judge are in the whole County besides. In most other places that
I have observ'd this Year, the common way of management has been rather
regarded than the rational part; and even the best Gardeners have fail'd in
their Pruning the last Year, for the production of this Year's Fruit. I
much wonder, that after the Demonstrations I have given from Facts, ever
since the Year 1717, that Vines would grow and prosper well to be planted
in old dry Walls; and the Instances I publish'd in the same Year, in my new
Improvements, of Vines bearing best in dry Rubbish, or the most dry Soil: I
say, it is surprizing, that some of those to whom I gave that satisfaction,
should not guard against excess of Wet, especially when every one, who has
judgment in the Affair of Vegetation, must know, that over-abundant
Moisture will destroy the bearing Quality of any Plant, and more especially
of such a kind of Plant as delights in dry mountainous Countries, as the
Vine is known to do; but a common method of Management has so possess'd
some People, that they will not give themselves leave to think that an
Alteration of a Season from a dry to a wet, will occasion an alteration in
a Plant. There is one Instance particularly, which I cannot help
mentioning, relating to Vines, and the neccessity of keeping their Roots
from Wet, which I observ'd this Year at _Twittenham_, at _John Robarts_'s
Esq. This Gentleman has several Vines laid up against the side of his
House, as full of Grapes as I have ever seen any; but at the bottom where
they grow, the Ground is paved with Bricks for about ten or twelve foot
from the Wall they are nail'd to. This Pavement, in the last wet Summer,
kept the Roots from imbibing, or receiving too much Moisture, and therefore
the Juices of the Vines were digested, and capable of producing Fruit this
Year; whereas such Vines as were not growing in dry places naturally, or
had their Roots defended from the violent Wet by accident, have few or no
Grapes at all. My Observations this Year, in some places where there are
Pavements, still confirms me in my Opinion; and where there was any
tolerable Skill in Pruning, I am persuaded every one will find that there
have been Grapes this Year, or now are on those Vines that have stood in
paved places, where the Pavement defended the Roots from the wet of the
last Year. And as I have already mention'd in this, and other Works, the
neccessity of planting Vines in dry places, for regular Seasons; and these
Instances showing us the advantage of doing the same in wet Seasons; I
think one may reasonably judge, that Pavements made over such places where
Vines are planted, as well as Rubbish and dry Ground to plant them in, is
the best way we can take for them. This way, particularly in a wet Year,
will keep our Vines from running into long Joints, and the Juices
consequently in digesting, as we find by experience; for no long-jointed
Shoots of Vines are fruitful as they ought to be, and rarely bear any Fruit
at all. 'Tis the short-jointed Shoots that will bear Fruit plentifully; and
where there is much Wet at the Root, you must expect very few short Joints,
and also very little Fruit: therefore, in this case, the Roots ought always
to be defended from Wet.
This Year, 1726, was, at the beginning, a gentle and moist Spring, but
_April_ and _May_ were hot; which brought every thing so forward, that our
Harvest was about five or six Weeks forwarder than it has been for several
Years past. The Case I have mention'd of the Grapes ripening naturally, was
in proportion to the forwardness of the Harvest; every thing that I have
observed in the same way was alike. The last Year was as extraordinary in
the lateness of Crops, for then everything was as backward through the
perpetual Rain we had in the Summer. Sometime or other this Memorandum may
be of use, if my Papers last so long; however, for the present, consider
how these two different Years have affected the Vine; the last wet Year
made the Vines shoot strong and vigorous, and there was no Fruit this Year:
nor was this only with us in _Britain_; but every where in _Europe_. The
last Year produced such Floods, from the continued Rains at unexpected
Seasons, as was never known in the memory of Man, the Vines shot
vigorously; and this Year there were very few Grapes of the first Crop: but
this Summer was so good and favourable, by its warm Months at the beginning
of the Summer, that the Vines abroad shot out fresh Crops, or second Crops
or Grapes, which made up for the other deficiency. I expect the next Year
from hence, that the Vines will produce a full Crop of Grapes abroad,
because this Year has settled the Juices, and digested them; but what
Season there may be for ripening, is still uncertain, especially when we
have the two last Years in view. But in our Gardens, I fear, we shall have
worse success; for what this Year has done, will give the Gardeners
generally a hard piece of work; for, as I imagine, there was little care
taken in the beginning of the Year to lay up the Vines, especially because
there was but a small, or no appearance of Grapes then; and the neglect of
that Season in managing of Vines, will be the occasion of losing the Crop
the next Year. What I say here about the management of Vines in the early
part of the Year, I have already treated of in my other Works.
I shall now proceed to give some Particulars relating to the making of
Wines of Grapes, which I believe may help those who make Wines in our
_English_ Vineyards, and make them stronger and richer than they hare
usually been.
Considering the uncertainty of Seasons, and that every sort of Grape will
not always ripen without Art, it will be necessary to contrive how that
Defect may be amended. The Richness of Wine depends upon the Ripeness of
the Grapes; and therefore when Grapes have not had the advantage of a
favourable Season to ripen, the Liquor press'd from the Grapes, may be
amended by boiling; for this extraordinary Heat will correct the Juice, by
evaporating the two great quantity of watery parts. This Method, however
ripe the Grapes were among the ancient _Greeks_ and _Romans,_ was
frequently, if not always practised; and is practised in those more
Southern Climes, why is it not as reasonable in ours? But that this is not
now practised any where in _Europe,_ is no reason why Wines may not be the
better for it. I suppose the only reason why it is not now practised, is,
because it would be an Expence and Trouble, more than the Masters of
Vineyards have usually been at; and so long as they can sell their Wines at
a constant Price, they do not care to go out of the way; but in a bad
Season there is no doubt but even the Wines in _France_ might be meliorated
by boiling: As in the Instance of the _Frontiniack_ Grapes, that are sour
and unripe, and without Flavour, yet, by boiling or baking, they will gain
the high Flavour that is found in them when they are well-ripen'd, by the
Sun; but in baking or boiling unripe Grapes in the Skins, one must expect
that the sourness of the Skins will communicate a sourness to the juices
enclosed; but the Juices being press'd and boil'd, will ripen and become
pleasant. In my _New Improvements of Planting and Gardening,_ I have given
large Directions for making of Wine of Grapes, and in this, have also given
variety of Receipts for making of Wines of Fruits of our own growth; from
whence we may learn the Use of boiling Juices of Fruits, and what will
require fermenting by Yeast, and what do not. You will find that such Wines
as are boiled with Sugar, are to be fermented with Yeast; and such as have
Raisins for their foundation, will ferment in some measure of themselves.
And especially observe, that while any Liquor is fermenting, the Vessel it
is enclosed in must be kept open till it has quite done working; for if we
should stop it up before that Action is over, it will certainly burst the
Vessel; or if it has room enough, will turn sour, and be always thick and
troubled. Again, all Wines, and other Liquors, must be stopt close as soon
as they have done working, or else the Liquors will grow flat and dead.
Some Wines will ferment six Weeks or two Months after they are in the
Vessel, as one may know by the hissing noise which they make; but when that
is done, then the ferment is over, and they should be closed up. But some
Wines will ferment much longer than two Months, and then it is a sign that
they stand too hot; then they must be put in a cooler place, or the outside
of the Vessel frequently cool'd or refresh'd with Water, which will stop
the ferment. Again, some will not ferment as they ought to do, and then
they must be set in warmer places, which will raise the ferment.
In very bad Years we may help our Wines with a small quantity of Sugar,
perhaps a Pound to a Gallon of Juice, to boil together; but whether we add
Sugar or no, we must be sure to take the Scum off the Wines as it rises
when they are boiling.
In the colder Climates, we ought not to press the Grapes so close as they
do in the hot Countries, because in the colder parts of the World, and in
places the most remote from the Sun, the Skins of the Grapes are much
thicker, and carry a Sourness in them which should not be too much press'd
to mix with the richer part of the Grape; but in the hotter Climes, the
Skins of the Grapes are thin, and the Sourness rectify'd by the Sun, and
will bear pressing without injuring the finer Juices.
There is one thing which I shall mention with regard to the Endeavours that
have been used to make Wine in the Island of _St. Helena_; a Place so
situate, that it lies as a resting-place between these Northern Parts, and
the _East-Indies_, and so remote from other places, that could there be
good Wine made there, it would be of great help and assistance to the Ships
that sail that way: But I am informed by a curious Gentleman, who has had
many good Accounts of that Place, that the Vines which have been planted
there, are of such sorts, as bring the Grapes ripe and rotten on one side
of the Bunch, and green on the other at the same time, which surely can
never make good Wine. But upon enquiry, they are only such sorts of Grapes
as grow in close Clusters, and therefore the side next the Sun must be ripe
much sooner than the other; for the Climate there is so violent hot, that
there are no Walls used behind them to reflect the Heat to ripen the Backs
of the Bunches.
Therefore, I suppose that the best way to have good Wine made in those
Parts, is to furnish that Place with Vines which may bring their Grapes in
open or loose Bunches, such as the Raisin-grape, and some others, which do
not cluster; for then the Sun would have an equal effect upon all the
Grapes, and good Wine might be made of them: But the worthy Gentleman who
told me of this, has, I hear, sent to _St. Helena_ a Collection of such
Grapes as will answer the desired end.
This is likewise the Month when Saffron appears above ground; sometimes
sooner, sometimes later, according as the Season is earlier or later. This
Year, 1726, I was in the Saffron Country, and in the beginning of _August_
the Saffron-heads or Roots had shut up so long in the flowering part, that
the Planters were forced to put them into the Ground: I mean, such as were
design'd for new Plantations, which is sooner by near a Month than they
used to sprout, though they lay dry in Heaps, the Weather had so great an
effect upon them.
About _Littlebury_, _Chesterford_, _Linton_, and some other Places
thereabouts, is certainly now the greatest Quantity of Saffron of any part
of the Kingdom; the famous Place noted formerly for it, call'd _Saffron
Walden_, being at this time without it. However, the People of the Places
which I have named, do not forbear bringing it to _Walden_ Market, or
driving Bargains there for large Quantities of it, tho' the Market at
_Linton_ is look'd upon to be much the best. What I have said in my
_Country Gentleman and Farmer's Monthly Director_, gives ample Inductions
for the Management of Saffron, but I may here add a word or two more
concerning it; which is, that considering how many Accidents the Saffron is
subject to, that is dry'd upon the common Kilns, by the scorching of it by
too hot a Fire, and the Unskilfulness of the Dryers; I do not wonder that
there is so much Saffron spoiled. Where there are unskilful Hands employ'd
in the drying part, one ought to provide such Kilns for them as are large
enough to distribute the Heat moderately, and as constant as possible;
which may partly be help'd by providing such a Fire as may be constant, and
not give more Heat at one time than another; for there is a great deal of
Judgment in that. I find, that by the common way, some Saffron is scorch'd,
and some unequally dry'd, for which reason I have contriv'd such a Kiln as
must necessarily answer the end which is proposed in the drying of Saffron;
that is, to put it into a state of keeping with its Virtue in it, and to
put it out of the danger of being scorch'd in the drying. This I shall
publish in my _Natural History of_ Cambridgeshire _and_ Essex, which will
soon appear in the World.
As for the way which is now commonly practised in the drying of Saffron, it
is, when you have provided a Kiln, such as I have described in my _Farmer's
Monthly Director_, with a Cloth made of Horse-hair on the top, strain the
Hair-cloth tight, and lay on two Sheets of Saffron-paper, that is, a sort
of Paper made on purpose for that Use, which is very large; and prepare a
little Vessel with some Small beer, and as many Chives of Saffron as will
make it of a deep Colour to stand by you; sprinkle over the Paper with a
Brush or Feather dipt in this Liquor, and spread your Saffron upon it,
either in a square or a round Figure, about three Inches thick, and cover
the Saffron with two Sheets more of the same kind of Paper, and lay a
woollen Cloth upon them, and over that a Board, which will cover the top of
the Kiln: view this now and then, till you see that the Steam of the
Saffron comes through the upper Papers. Then take off the Board and
Woollen-cloth, and taking the Papers on each side with your Hands, turn the
Saffron in the Papers, so that the under-side be uppermost; taking off
presently after the Papers which were first the undermost, and then smooth
down the side of the Saffron that was first next the Fire with a Knife, so
that it lie all equal. Then cover it as it was at first, and after a little
time turn the Saffron as you did before, and spread then the upper-side
even with a Knife, as you did at first; then sprinkle your Saffron with the
Brush dipt in the prepared Liquor upon the dry part's of the Cake, and
cover it as before; let it lie then a little, and turn it as occasion
requires, which may be sooner or later, as the Fire in the Kiln is quick or
slow, minding every time, as you turn it, to sprinkle the dry parts with
the Liquor; the more it shrinks, the oftner you must turn your Cake of
Saffron, minding still to sprinkle the dry parts; and when it has shrunk
about three fourths of the first thickness, lay a Stone or Weight upon the
Board at the top of the Kiln, of about seven or eight Pound weight, the
Board already being about ten or a dozen Pounds; when it is dry enough,
take it off the Kiln, and the Paper it was dried in will be of good use;
remember to keep your Fire gentle and clear. We may note, that a Gatherer
of Saffron has this Year about ten Pence _per_ Drain, and that about six
Pounds, or six Pounds and a half of raw Saffron will dry to a Pound; but
generally they allow only six Pounds of wet Saffron to a Pound of dry
Saffron: but that depends upon the Dryers, who sometimes out of a
Willingness to get Money, do not dry it so much as they ought to do. It is
a Rule among the Saffron-Planters in _Cambridgeshire,_ that sixteen
Quarters of Saffron-Roots, or Heads, will plant an Acre; and that a full
Acre this Year produces about seventeen or eighteen Pounds of dry Saffron,
tho' the common rate is about sixteen Pounds.
About this time you have many green Melons upon the Vines which will not
ripen; and besides, if they would, that Fruit would now be too cold for the
Stomach: therefore it is advisable to pickle them, to make them imitate
Mango's, which some prefer before Mango Cucumbers. The following is the
Receipt to pickle them.
To pickle green Melons, in imitation of Mango.
The Mango is a Fruit brought to us from the _East Indies,_ about the Shape
and Bigness of a small Melon; it has a large Stone in it, and comes to us
in a Pickle, which is strong tasted of Garlick, but approved by most
People. When we gather Melons for this use, we must wash them and cut them,
as directed for the Mango Cucumbers, then lay them in Salt and Water,
shifting the Salt and Water every four and twenty Hours, for nine Days
successively; after which, take them out and wipe them dry, and put into
the inside of each, which has been already scraped, the same Ingredients
directed for your Mango Cucumbers, and tie them up: then boil your Pickle
of Vinegar, Bay-Salt, and Spices, with these Mangoes in it; scumming it as
it rises, and with it a piece of Allum as directed in the Receipt for Mango
Cucumbers, and afterwards follow that Receipt till your Melons are fit to
use.
Now we have Wild-Ducks fit for the Table, and it is to be noted, that these
should not be larded as Land-Fowls, in the roasting of them. It must be
observed, that they be sent to Table with the Gravey in them; but before
they are laid down to the Fire, it is practis'd in many places, to chop
Onions, the Leaves of red Sage, and mix these with Pepper and Salt, to be
put in the Belly of the Ducks; and when they are brought to Table, pour a
Glass of Claret warm'd through the Body of the Ducks, which with some
Gravey, that must be sent in the Dish, under the Ducks, will make a proper
Sauce for them.
Another agreeable way of eating Ducks, is roasting them, and eating them
with boil'd Onions; they are sometimes used in Soups, and baked, and they
likewise eat very well when they are half roasted, and then cut to pieces
and stew'd with their own Gravey and Claret.
Now Stubble Geese will be in season, after they have been taken up and fed
for a Fortnight or thereabouts, in a close place, with Barley and Water;
but during their Confinement, they must never want Victuals. Note, the
Barley must have no more Water with it than will just cover it, and they
must never have their Corn dry. If during the time of their feeding, you
happen to let them out to ramble for a few hours, they will lose more good
Flesh in that time, than they can regain in three Days; therefore when you
have once put them up, keep them up till they are fit to kill: but if you
would have them very fat, put them in a Coop for a Week or ten Days before
you kill them, and feed them with Barley-Meal and Water, made almost as
thick as Paste; and always let there be several of them together, for a
single one will pine, and lose Flesh, instead of increasing it by Eating.
As to the dressing of this Fowl while it is young, in the Spring, under the
Character of a Green-Goose, it is fatted in a Coop with Barley-Meal and
Water, and being kill'd and scalded when 'tis fat, 'tis roasted and eaten
with green Sauce, or scalded Goosberries: but being full grown as at this
time of the Year, is roasted, being first salted and pepper'd within side,
and salted without side. Some put an Onion, and some Sage-Leaves into the
Body of the Goose, when it is laid down to the Fire, and when it is brought
to Table, it is serv'd with Apples stew'd and mash'd in a Plate by the
Side; but for the Sauce in the Dish, there need be none but some Claret
heated, and pour'd thro' the Body of the Goose, to mix with its own Gravey.
Some also salt Geese, and boil them with Greens, as with other salt Meat; a
Goose may also be bak'd in a Pye to be eaten cold. A Goose is to be kill'd,
by pulling first the Feathers at the back of the Head, and cutting pretty
deep with a sharp Penknife, between the back of the Head and the Neck,
taking care that it does not struggle, so as to make the Feathers bloody,
for that will spoil them: and 'tis to be noted, the Feathers of a full
grown Goose are worth four Pence to be sold in the Country; this I had from
a Gentlewoman in _Surrey._ In _Holland_ they slit Geese down the Back, and
salt them with Salt-Petre, and other Salt, and then dry them like Bacon;
they eat very well, if they are boiled tender.
* * * * *