These Cheeses are to be about two Inches thick, and the Vats or Cheese
Motes must be provided accordingly; set your Milk as directed in the former
Receipts, and breaking it as equally and tenderly as possible, put it in a
Cloth into the Vat, and set it in the press for an Hour; then take it out
of the Press, and cut it in small Pieces, as big as Nutmegs, into a Pan of
scalding Water, taking them again soon out of the Water, and sprinkle them
with Salt at your pleasure, and return them again to the Vat or Cheese
Mote, and keep them in the Press till the next Morning, and after that turn
them and wipe them often, till they come to be very dry; or else when you
have let one of these Cheeses press about two Hours, salt it on the upper
side, and turn it at Night, and salt the side that lies uppermost, to lie
in the Press till Morning; but the first way of cutting and salting it is
much the best. These Cheeses will be fit to cut when they have been made
eight Months; it is to be observ'd, that if we salt them in the manner
first mention'd, that is, by cutting the Cheese, such Cheeses will be
smooth-coated.
To make Slip-Coat Cheese, which is the thin Summer Cheese, call'd in
_London_ Cream Cheese. From the Farm call'd the _Vaises_ in _Essex._
Take six Quarts of new Milk, and a Pint of Cream, put it together with a
Spoonful of Rennet just warm, and let it stand till the Curd is come; then
lay a Cloath in your Cheese Vat, and with a Skimming-Dish cut out the Curd,
and lay it in the Vat till it is full, turning your Cheese-Cloath over it;
and as the Curd settles, lay more on, till you have laid on all. When the
Whey is drain'd out, turn the Cheese into a dry Cloath, and then lay a
weight of a Pound upon it; at Night turn it into another dry Cloath, and
the next Morning salt it a little, then make a Bed of Nettles or Ash-Leaves
to lay it on, and cover it with the same, shifting them twice a day, till
the Cheese is fit to eat, which will be in about ten days. This Cheese is
approved to be the best of the kind in the whole Country, and may be made
all the Summer.
It is to be observ'd, that if in any sort of Cheese, which is here
mentioned, there is not a strength or briskness of taste agreeable to every
Palate, it may be strengthned, by putting either Spice into the Rennet Bag,
as Pepper, or Mace, or Cloves, which will make the Rennet very strong, and
the Cheese of consequence more sharp to the Palate; or else add the Juices
of strong sweet Herbs to the Milk, when the Rennet is put in: the Juice of
Marygolds especially helps the richness of the Milk, or Cheese. The Mace in
good quantity put into the Rennet will give the Cheese a most agreeable
warmth.
As for the Antipathy which some People bear to Cheese, I judge that it must
proceed from the first impression made from the Nurse that suckles
Children, or from the first Cow's Milk that is given them: for as the
Stomach is the first part which the Nourishment is received into; so, as
that Nourishment is at first favourably receiv'd into the Stomach, so the
Tone of the Stomach will ever remain afterwards, unless it could be so
clear'd from the first impression by such a Tryal as Human Nature can
hardly bear. I guess too, that from this Prejudice in the Stomach proceeds
the Aversion which some People have to the Smell of Cheese; and if I may go
a little farther this way, I suppose that the Dislike to Cats, and the
Antipathy some People bear to them, is from Frights which the Mothers have
receiv'd from them during their Pregnancy: concerning which last
Particular, I have offer'd my Sentiments in the Article of the Longing of
Women, in my _Philosophical Account of the Works of Nature_. But as for the
other things, which some People bear an Aversion to, as the Mutton of black
Sheep, or a Breast of Mutton, _&c._ they depend upon the loathing of the
Stomach, from the first Impression. What I have remark'd here, concerning
the preparing and softning of the quality of the Rennet Bag, is in part a
reason for the first good or bad Impression that may be made upon Mankind
with regard to Cheese; and I think the following relation, which I had from
a noble Peer, from whom I have learnt many curious and useful things,
tending to the good of my Country, will be acceptable to the World.
Some Gentlemen that had been hunting, and were led by their Sport to a
retir'd part of the Country, where they found only a Cottage to refresh
themselves in, were forc'd to take up with Bread and Cheese; there was
nothing else to be had, and they had craving Stomachs: but one of the
Company was so unfortunate as to have an aversion to Cheese, and could
never bear either the taste or smell of it; however, at this time feeing
how heartily it was eaten by his Companions, and being very hungry, he
resolved to venture upon it, and eat heartily of it; but about an hour
after was taken so very ill with Purging and Vomiting, that in a short time
his Life was despair'd of. He had the Advice of the best Physicians, but no
Medicine took place, and he was given over, after he had lain in that
condition a Week; however, at length the Distemper went off, and by degrees
he get strength enough to go homeward, and in his way happening to stop at
an Inn, where there stood a Waggon Load of _Cheshire_ Cheeses, he found
that he had a strong Appetite to eat some of that sort, and had one cut on
purpose, and eat heartily of it, without suffering the least inconvenience,
and has ever since been a great lover of Cheese. So that there is an
Example of getting over this Aversion; but considering the difficulty he
went thro', it shews the danger of such an Attempt: Nothing less than the
violent Scouring he underwent could have chang'd the first Impression made
in his Stomach. But thus far of Cheese.
It is necessary, in the next place, to say something of Butter, and how far
that may be mended in many parts of _England_, as well for private as for
more general use.
In the first place it is to be remark'd, that some Grounds will never
produce good Butter, and others will not produce good Cheese, tho' there is
the best management in the Dairy. Again, there is one sort of Cattle, which
tho' we feed them in the finest Grass, and best Pasture, will never yield a
rich Milk; while on the other hand, there are some sorts of Cattle which
will yield a rich Milk for Butter in any Pasture: tho', as I have observ'd
before, the Milk and Butter will be ill tasted if the Cows fed upon
Crow-Garlick, Alliaria, or Saxifrage. What I have said of this, with regard
to the making of Cheese, must here be consider'd; that is, if the Cows feed
upon short fine Grass, there will be more Cream in the Milk than if they
feed upon long rank Grass. Indeed the long rank Grass will give more Milk
than the short, but less Butter, and worse into the bargain. Again, the
Milk of one Cow shall give richer and better Butter than the Milk of
others, tho' they all feed on the same Pasture, even so that the Milk of
one Cow will cover or enrich the Butter made from nine or ten other Cows;
her Milk will make Butter of a rich yellow Colour, full of Fatness, and the
others will only produce a pale, lean Butter, but all together will be
good: I know several Instances of this, and every one who is skilful in a
Dairy may observe it. I have already treated largely concerning this
Particular, in my Works of Husbandry, and I shall therefore proceed to
speak of the Management of Milk in the Dairy for making Butter; for I am
very sensible, that many Farmers might have twice the Benefit from their
Dairies, if the Articles of Butter and Cheese were consider'd in a rational
way, and the old Custom could be broke through; and moreover, if the best
Rules for managing of the Dairy were known, and put in practice, the whole
Country would be the better for it, every one might enjoy the benefit of
good things: whereas for want of knowledge among some Farmers, their Goods
are of small value, and the People are also disatisfied.
In many parts of _England_, it is common to set Milk in Brass Pans, and
that gives an ill Taste to the Milk; and again, there is a custom of
setting the Cream in Brass-Kettles over the Fire, and as it warms to stroak
the Butter as it rises to the edge of the Kettle: this way is very bad for
Butter, for the warm Brass assuredly will spoil the Taste of the Cream, and
it is often smoak'd. The surest way is to set the Milk in glaz'd Earthen
Pans or in Leaden Pans, but the Earthen Pans are preferable. It should be
particularly observ'd, that the Dairy be kept cool, for that in hot Weather
contributes greatly to the Advantage of the Butter: I have known some that
have had Streams of Water running thro' them, and at the same Places,
instead of Glass Windows, there have been no Lights at all to them but
thro' Wyer, and Shutters to them, to open or close as the Sun chang'd its
Course. The thatching of the Dairy is much cooler also than Tyling; and
whatever will contribute to keep off the Sun, should be practis'd. There
are yet in some Places in _England_ some Farmers that do not know the use
of the Churn; however, it is certain, that there is no better way of making
Butter than by that means, or something equivalent to it; that is, by
beating the Cream, so that the Oily, or Fat Parts separate from the Watery
Parts, in the most constant and gentle way that is possible, for to use
this beating of the Cream too violently, will make the Butter like Grease;
whereas a gentle beating of the Cream will render it more firm or stiff:
and besides, when the Cream is beat with too much hurry, the Butter will
ferment, and presently change to be of a bad Taste; but if it be gently
beat or churn'd, it will be firm, and will be fit for keeping. Again, it
must be observ'd, that as the beating or churning of Cream, to bring it to
Butter, is only to separate the oily from the watery Parts of the Cream, so
when once you begin to churn, or beat the Cream, you must continue to churn
or beat it in the most constant manner you can, till the Butter is made:
for if you had perhaps beat the Cream within three or four Minutes of its
becoming Butter, if you leave off the Work but a Minute, the oily and
watery Parts will return to one another, and will require as much Labour as
before to separate them: it is like Oil and Vinegar that have been mix'd by
Labour, and then let alone for a Minute or two, they will divide and
separate from one another, as much as if they had never been mix'd; but the
beating of it too violently, will make the Butter oily, as observ'd before.
As for the Figure of our common Churn, I shall not give a draught of it,
because such as are unacquainted with it may understand it much better by
seeing a Model of it, which may be had at any Toy-Shop in _London_; nay,
the very beating of Cream with a Spoon, in a small Bowl, will bring it to
Butter; but it must be beat regularly.
In the great Dairies in _Holland_, where one Farmer keeps four or five
hundred Cows, the Cream is put into a large Well, lined with Lead, and a
large Beam set with cross Bars is turn'd in the Cream by a Horse; but the
violence of the Motion makes the Butter rather like Oil than Butter; and
the consequence is, that it will not keep long, and as I have heard say,
will not melt well, like the Butter that is made by more gentle means.
Where a gentle way is used in making Butter, it will cut like Wax, and it
should especially be well wrought with the Hands, when it is fresh, taken
from the Churn and salted for common use; for if the Milk be not well
work'd out of it, the Butter will not keep. However, if Butter begins to
decay in goodness, or change to an ill Taste, let it be work'd well, and
wash'd with Water, and it will come to itself, and will bear salting and
potting as well as fresh Butter; but always observe not to put up Butters
of several sorts into the same Pot or Vessel, but chuse that of the same
Dairy, and of the same making, if possible. One of the most curious Women I
have met with in this way, is Mrs. _Cowen,_ a Shopkeeper at _Newport Pond_
in _Essex,_ who pots great quantities every Year; there are undoubtedly
many others who are very good in this way, but as I do not know them,
therefore I may be excus'd if I mention her in particular.
Again, Butter that was good originally, and well potted, may be wash'd and
beaten in the Winter, so as to be made more sweet and palatable than fresh
Butter, made in many Places, at that time of the Year; and this is
frequently practiced about _London,_ where the workers of it get more than
twice the first Price of the Butter, by their Care and Labour.
Before I conclude this Article, it may be necessary to observe, that the
best managers of the Dairy frequently fill up their Churns with cold Water,
before they put in the Cream to churn, in the heat of the Summer, for fear
of over-heating the Butter in the making, and in the Winter heat their
Churns with warm Water before they use them, but the over-heating of the
Churns spoils the Butter; she best way is to set the bottom of the Churn in
warm Water, when you churn in cold Weather, to save Trouble.
I shall now proceed to say something of preparing Cordial Waters; for this
Month gives us a vast variety of Herbs in full perfection, and in the most
proper condition for the use of the Shops, whether for drying, infusing,
distilling, _&c._
In the first place, all Herbs design'd to be dried, must be gather'd in dry
Weather, and laid in some Room, or cover'd Place, to dry in the Shade, to
be afterwards used for infusion or distillation, for which Business the
dried Herbs are as useful as the green Herbs, if they be such as are
Aromatick, _viz._ Thyme, Sweet Marjoram, Savory, Hysop, Sage, Mint,
Rosemary, the Leaves of the Bay-Tree, the Tops of Juniper, Gill, or Ground
Ivy, and such like: The Infusions, or Spirits, drawn from dried Herbs are
more free from the Earthy and Watery Parts, than the Infusions, or Spirits
drawn from green Herbs. I observe, that in making such Infusions as Teas of
dried Herbs, the best way is to pour boiling Water upon them, and in half a
Minute, at most, pour out the Water again from the Herbs, if we have them
in small quantities, as we do Sage Tea, or other Tea; such Tea will then be
of a fine green Colour, and full of Spirit: but if the Herbs stand longer
with Water upon them, the Water will change of a brownish Colour, will lose
the fine Flavour of the Herb, and become ill-tasted; so that in the making
of Sage Tea, for example, pour on your boiling Water, and when it has been
half a Minute upon the Sage-Leaves, pour it off and fling away the Leaves;
for if you pour more Water upon them, you must expect your Tea of a dark
Colour and ill tasted: therefore have fresh Sage to every fresh quantity of
Water. And the same method should be used in the making of all kinds of
Teas, to make them palatable and more wholesome. But when I speak of Teas
having good qualities in them, I must not be understood to mean any of the
Foreign Teas, such as Green, and Bohea Teas, _&c._ for I have had
experience enough in them to know that they are injurious to the Body, of
which I shall say more in a Treatise by it self. What I mention here, is
only with regard to the infusing of Herbs in the Tea manner; but there are
Infusions of Herbs in Spirits: here the Spirit that the Herbs are put into,
must be cold, or used without any Fire at all, and the Herbs in this case
may be used either green or dry; here they may stand several days before
the Spirit that they are infus'd in be drawn off, as the following Cordial,
call'd Surfeit Water, may serve to instance.