thought it best to attempt neither, so contented ourselves with a walk
on the cliffs and the smooth green field which led thither. Leaning
against a gate, we stood and watched one of the grandest out of the
many grand sunsets which had blessed us in Cornwall. The black rock of
Tintagel filled the foreground; beyond, the eye saw nothing but sea,
the sea which covers vanished Lyonesse, until it met the sky, a clear
amber with long bars like waves, so that you could hardly tell where
sea ended and sky began. Then into it there swam slowly a long low
cloud, shaped like a boat, with a raised prow, and two or three figures
sitting at the stern.
"King Arthur and the three queens," we declared, and really a very
moderate imagination could have fancied it this. "But what is that long
black thing at the bow?"
"Oh," observed drily the most practical of the three, "it's King
Arthur's luggage."
Sentiment could survive no more. We fell into fits of laughter, and
went home to tea and bed.
DAYS FOURTEENTH, FIFTEENTH, AND SIXTEENTH--
And all Arthurian days, so I will condense them into one chapter, and
not spin out the hours that were flying so fast. Yet we hardly wished
to stop them; for pleasant as travelling is, the best delight of all
is--the coming home.
Walking, to one more of those exquisite autumn days, warm as summer,
yet with a tender brightness that hot summer never has, like the love
between two old people, out of whom all passion has died--we remembered
that we were at Tintagel, the home of Ygrayne and Arthur, of King Mark
and Tristram and Iseult. I had to tell that story to my girls in the
briefest form, how King Mark sent his nephew, Sir Tristram, to fetch
home Iseult of Ireland for his queen, and on the voyage Bragswaine,
her handmaiden, gave each a love-potion, which caused the usual fatal
result; how at last Tristram fled from Tintagel into Brittany, where
he married another Iseult "of the white hands," and lived peacefully,
till, stricken by death, his fancy went back to his old love, whom he
implored to come to him. She came, and found him dead. A tale--of which
the only redeeming point is the innocence, simplicity, and dignity of
the second Iseult, the unloved Breton wife, to whom none of our modern
poets who have sung or travestied the wild, passionate, miserable, ugly
story, have ever done full justice.
These sinful lovers, the much-wronged but brutal King Mark, the
scarcely less brutal Uther Pendragon, and hapless Ygrayne--what a
curious condition of morals and manners the Arthurian legends unfold!
A time when might was right; when every one seized what he wanted just
because he wanted it, and kept it, if he could, till a stronger hand
wrenched it from him. That in such a state of society there should
ever have arisen the dimmest dream of a man like Arthur--not perhaps
Tennyson's Arthur, the "blameless king," but even Sir Thomas Malory's,
founded on mere tradition--is a remarkable thing. Clear through all
the mists of ages shines that ideal of knighthood, enjoining courage,
honour, faith, chastity, the worship of God and the service of men.
Also, in the very highest degree, inculcating that chivalrous love of
woman--not women--which barbaric nations never knew. As we looked at
that hoar ruin sitting solitary in the sunny sea, and thought of the
days when it was a complete fortress, inclosing a mass of human beings,
all with human joys, sorrows, passions, crimes--things that must have
existed in essence, however legend has exaggerated or altered them--we
could not but feel that the mere possibility of a King Arthur shining
down the dim vista of long-past centuries, is something to prove that
goodness, like light, has an existence as indestructible as Him from
whom it comes.
We looked at Tintagel with its risky rock-path. "It will be a hot
climb, and our bathing days are numbered. Let us go in the opposite
direction to Bossinney Cove."
Practicality when weighed against Poetry is poor--Poetry always kicks
the beam. We went to Bossinney.
Yet what a pretty cove it was! and how pleasant! While waiting for
the tide to cover the little strip of sand, we re-mounted the winding
path, and settled ourselves like seabirds on the furthermost point of
rock, whence, just by extending a hand, we could have dropped anything,
ourselves even, into a sheer abyss of boiling waves, dizzy to look down
into, and yet delicious.
So was the bath, though a little gloomy, for the sun could barely reach
the shut-in cove; and we were interfered with considerably by--not
tourists--but a line of donkeys! They were seen solemnly descending the
narrow cliff-path one by one--eleven in all--each with an empty sack
over his shoulder. Lastly came a very old man, who, without taking the
least notice of us, disposed himself to fill these sacks with sand.
One after the other the eleven meek animals came forward and submitted
each to his load, which proceeding occupied a good hour and a half.
I hardly know which was the most patient, the old man or his donkeys.
[Illustration: CRESWICK'S MILL IN THE ROCKY VALLEY.]
We began some of us to talk to his beasts, and others to himself. "Yes,
it was hard work," he said, "but he managed to come down to the cove
three times a day. And the asses were good asses. They all had their
names; Lucy, Cherry, Sammy, Tom, Jack, Ned;" each animal pricked up its
long ears and turned round its quiet eyes when called. Some were young
and some old, but all were very sure-footed, which was necessary here.
"The weight some of 'em would carry was wonderful."
The old man seemed proud of the creatures, and kind to them too in a
sort of way. He had been a fisherman, he said, but now was too old for
that; so got his living by collecting sand.
"It makes capital garden-paths, this sand. I'd be glad to bring you
some, ladies," said he, evidently with an eye to business. When we
explained that this was impracticable, unless he would come all the way
to London, he merely said, "Oh," and accepted the disappointment. Then
bidding us a civil "Good day," he disappeared with his laden train.
Poor old fellow! Nothing of the past knightly days, nothing of the
busy existing modern present affected him, or ever would do so. He
might have been own brother, or cousin, to Wordsworth's "Leech-gatherer
on the lonely moor." Whenever we think of Bossinney Cove, we shall
certainly think of that mild old man and his eleven donkeys.
The day was hot, and it had been a steep climb; we decided to drive in
the afternoon, "for a rest," to Boscastle.
Artists and tourists haunt this picturesque nook. A village built at
the end of a deep narrow creek, which runs far inland, and is a safe
shelter for vessels of considerable size. On either side is a high
footpath, leading to two headlands, from both of which the views of
sea and coast are very fine. And there are relics of antiquity and
legends thereto belonging--a green mound, all that remains of Bottrieux
Castle; and Ferrabury Church, with its silent tower. A peal of bells
had been brought, and the ship which carried them had nearly reached
the cove, when the pilot, bidding the captain "thank God for his safe
voyage," was answered that he "thanked only himself and a fair wind."
Immediately a storm arose; and the ship went down with every soul on
board--except the pilot. So the church tower is mute--but on winter
nights the lost bells are still heard, sounding mournfully from the
depths of the sea.
As we sat, watching with a vague fascination the spouting, minute by
minute, of a "blow-hole," almost as fine as the Kynance post-office--we
moralised on the story of the bells, and on the strange notions people
have, even in these days, of Divine punishments; imputing to the
Almighty Father all their own narrow jealousies and petty revenges,
dragging down God into the likeness of men, such an one as themselves,
instead of striving to lift man into the image of God.
Meantime the young folks rambled and scrambled--watched with anxious
and even envious eyes--for it takes one years to get entirely
reconciled to the quiescence of the down-hill journey. And then we
drove slowly back--just in time for another grand sunset, with Tintagel
black in the foreground, until it and all else melted into darkness,
and there was nothing left but to
"Watch the twilight stars come out
Above the lonely sea."
Next morning we must climb Tintagel, for it would be our last day.
And what a heavenly day it was! How softly the waves crept in upon the
beach--just as they might have done when they laid at Merlin's feet
"the little naked child," disowned of man but dear to Heaven, who was
to grow up into the "stainless king."
He and his knights--the "shadowy people of the realm of dream,"--were
all about us, as, guided by a rheumatic old woman, who climbed feebly
up the stair, where generations of ghostly feet must have ascended and
descended, we reached a bastion and gateway, quite pre-historic. Other
ruins apparently belong to the eleventh or twelfth centuries. But to
this there is no clue. It may have been the very landing-place of King
Uther or King Mark, or other Cornish heroes, who held this wonderful
natural-artificial fortress in the dim days of old romance.
"Here are King Arthur's cups and saucers," said the old woman, pausing
in the midst of a long lament over her own ailments, to point out some
holes in the slate rock. "And up there you'll find the chapel. It's an
easy climb--if you mind the path--just where it passes the spring."
[Illustration: BOSCASTLE.]
That spring, trickling down from the very top of the rock, and making
a verdant space all round it--what a treasure it must have been to the
unknown inhabitants who, centuries ago, entrenched themselves here--for
offence or defence--against the main-land. Peacefully it flowed on
still, with the little ferns growing, and the sheep nibbling beside
it. We idle tourists alone occupied that solitary height where those
long-past warlike races--one succeeding the other--lived and loved,
fought and died.
The chapel--where the high altar and a little burial-ground beside it
can still be traced--is clearly much later than Arthur's time. However,
there are so few data to go upon, and the action of sea-storms destroys
so much every year, that even to the learned archæologist, Tintagel is
a great mystery, out of which the imaginative mind may evolve almost
anything it likes.
We sat a long time on the top of the rock--realising only the one
obvious fact that our eyes were gazing on precisely the same scene,
seawards and coastwards, that all these long-dead eyes were accustomed
to behold. Beaten by winds and waves till the grey of its slate
formation is nearly black; worn into holes by the constant action of
the tide which widens yearly the space between it and the main-land,
and gnaws the rock below into dangerous hollows that in time become
sea-caves, Tintagel still remains--and one marvels that so much of it
does still remain--a landmark of the cloudy time between legend and
actual history.
Whether the ruin on the opposite height was once a portion of
Tintagel Castle, before the sea divided it, making a promontory into
an island--or whether it was the Castle Terrabil, in which Gorlois,
Ygrayne's husband, was slain--no one now can say. That both the twin
fortresses were habitable till Elizabeth's time, there is evidence to
prove. But since then they have been left to decay, to the silent sheep
and the screeching ravens, including doubtless that ghostly chough, in
whose shape the soul of King Arthur is believed still to revisit the
familiar scene.
We did not see that notable bird--though we watched with interest two
tame and pretty specimens of its almost extinct species walking about
in a flower-garden in the village, and superstitiously cherished there.
We were told that to this day no Cornishman likes to shoot a chough
or a raven. So they live and breed in peace among the twin ruins, and
scream contentedly to the noisy stream which dances down the rocky
hollow from Trevena, and leaps into the sea at Porth Hern--the "iron
gate," over against Tintagel. Otherwise, all is solitude and silence.
We thought we had seen everything, and come to an end, but at the hotel
we found a party who had just returned from visiting some sea-caves
beyond Tintagel, which they declared were "the finest things they had
found in Cornwall."
It was a lovely calm day, and it was our last day. A few hours of it
alone remained. Should we use them? We might never be here again.
And, I think, the looser grows one's grasp of life, the greater is
one's longing to make the most of it, to see all we can see of this
wonderful, beautiful world. So, after a hasty meal, we found ourselves
once more down at Porth Hern, seeking a boat and man--alas! not John
Curgenven--under whose guidance we might brave the stormy deep.
It was indeed stormy! No sooner had we rounded the rock, than the baby
waves of the tiny bay grew into hills and valleys, among which our boat
went dancing up and down like a sea-gull!
"Ay, there's some sea on, there always is here, but we'll be through it
presently," indifferently said the elder of the two boatmen; and plied
his oars, as, I think, only these Cornish boatmen can do, talking all
the while. He pointed out a slate quarry, only accessible from the sea,
unless the workmen liked to be let down by ropes, which sometimes had
to be done. We saw them moving about like black emmets among the clefts
of the rocks, and heard plainly above the sound of the sea the click
of their hammers. Strange, lonely, perilous work it must be, even in
summer. In winter--
"Oh, they're used to it; we're all used to it," said our man, who was
intelligent enough, though nothing equal to John Curgenven. "Many a
time I've got sea-fowls' eggs on those rocks there," pointing to a
cliff which did not seem to hold footing for a fly. "We all do it. The
gentry buy them, and we're glad of the money. Dangerous?--yes, rather;
but one must earn one's bread, and it's not so bad when you take to it
young."
Nevertheless, I think I shall never look at a collection of sea-birds'
eggs without a slight shudder, remembering those awful cliffs.
"Here you are, ladies, and the sea's down a bit, as I said. Hold on,
mate, the boat will go right into the cave."
And before we knew what was happening, we found ourselves floated out
of daylight into darkness--very dark it seemed at first--and rocking
on a mass of heaving waters, shut in between two high walls, so narrow
that it seemed as if every heave would dash us in pieces against them;
while beyond was a dense blackness, from which one heard the beat of
the everlasting waves against a sort of tunnel, a stormy sea-grave from
which no one could ever hope to come out alive.
"I don't like this at all," said a small voice.
"Hadn't we better get out again?" practically suggested another.
But no sooner was this done than the third of the party longed to
return; and begged for "only five minutes" in that wonderful place,
compared to which Dolor Ugo, and the other Lizard caves, became as
nothing. They were beautiful, but this was terrible. Yet with its
terror was mingled an awful delight. "Give me but five, nay, two
minutes more!"
"Very well, just as you choose," was the response of meek despair.
So of course, Poetry yielded. The boatmen were told to row on into
daylight and sunshine--at least as much sunshine as the gigantic
overhanging cliffs permitted. And never, never, never in this world
shall I again behold that wonderful, mysterious sea-cave.
But like all things incomplete, resigned, or lost, it has fixed itself
on my memory with an almost painful vividness. However, I promised not
to regret--not to say another word about it; and I will not. I did see
it, for just a glimpse; and that will serve.
Two more pictures remain, the last gorgeous sunset, which I watched in
quiet solitude, sitting on a tombstone by Tintagel church--a building
dating from Saxon times, perched on the very edge of a lofty cliff,
and with a sea-view that reaches from Trevose Head on one side to Bude
Haven on the other. Also, our last long dreamy drive; in the mild
September sunshine, across the twenty-one miles of sparsely inhabited
country which lie between Tintagel and Launceston. In the midst of
it, on the top of a high flat of moorland, our driver turned round
and pointed with his whip to a long low mound, faintly visible about
half-a-mile off. "There, ladies, that's King Arthur's grave."
The third, at least, that we had either seen or heard of. These varied
records of the hero's last resting-place remind one of the three heads,
said to be still extant, of Oliver Cromwell, one when he was a little
boy, one as a young man, and the third as an old man.
But after all my last and vividest recollection of King Arthur's
country is that wild sail--so wild that I wished I had taken it
alone--in the solitary boat, up and down the tossing waves in face of
Tintagel rock; the dark, iron-bound coast with its awful caves, the
bright sunshiny land, and ever-threatening sea. Just the region, in
short, which was likely to create a race like that which Arthurian
legend describes, full of passionate love and deadly hate, capable of
barbaric virtues, and equally barbaric crimes. An age in which the mere
idea of such a hero as that ideal knight
"Who reverenced his conscience as his God:
Whose glory was redressing human wrong:
Who spake no slander, no, nor listened to it:
Who loved one only, and who clave to her--"
rises over the blackness of darkness like a morning star.
If Arthur could "come again"--perhaps in the person of one of the
descendants of a prince who was not unlike him, who lived and died
among us in this very nineteenth century--
"Wearing the white flower of a blameless life--"
if this could be--what a blessing for Arthur's beloved England!
[Illustration: THE OLD POST-OFFICE, TREVENA.]
L'ENVOI
Written more than a year after. The "old hen" and her chickens have
long been safe at home. A dense December fog creeps in everywhere,
choking and blinding, as I finish the history of those fifteen innocent
days, calm as autumn, and bright as spring, when we three took our
Unsentimental Journey together through Cornwall. Many a clever critic,
like Sir Charles Coldstream when he looked into the crater of Vesuvius,
may see "nothing in it"--a few kindly readers looking a little further,
may see a little more: probably the writer only sees the whole.
But such as it is, let it stay--simple memorial of what Americans would
call "a good time," the sunshine of which may cast its brightness far
forward, even into that quiet time "when travelling days are done."
THE END.
LONDON:
R. CLAY, SONS, AND TAYLOR,
BREAD STREET HILL, E.C.