face--keen, bronzed, blue-eyed, like one of the old Vikings. He was a
fine specimen of a true British tar. When, having seen all we could, we
gave him his small honorarium, he accepted it gratefully, and insisted
on our taking in return a memento of the place in the shape of a stone
weighing about two pounds, glittering with ore, and doubtless valuable,
but ponderous. Oh, the trouble it gave me to carry it home, and pack
and unpack it among my small luggage! But I did bring it home, and
I keep it still in remembrance of the Land's End, and of the honest
sailor of H.M.S. _Agamemnon_.
So all was over. We could dream of an unknown Land's End no more. It
became now a real place, of which the reality, though different from
the imagination, was at least no disappointment. How few people in
attaining a life-long desire can say as much!
Our only regret, an endurable one now, was that we had not carried out
our original plan of staying some days there--tourist-haunted, troubled
days they might have been, but the evenings and mornings would have
been glorious. With somewhat heavy hearts we summoned Charles and the
carriage, for already a misty drift of rain began sweeping over the sea.
"Still, we must see Whitesand Bay," said one of us, recalling a story
a friend had once told how, staying at Land's End, she crossed the bay
alone in a blinding storm, took refuge at the coastguard station, where
she was hospitably received, and piloted back with most chivalric care
by a coastguard, who did not tell her till their journey's end that he
had left at home a wife, and a baby just an hour old.
No such romantic adventure befell us. We only caught a glimmer of the
bay through drizzling rain, which by the time we reached Sennen village
had become a regular downpour. Evidently, we could do no more that day,
which was fast melting into night.
"We'll go home," was the sad resolve, glad nevertheless that we had a
comfortable "home" to go to.
So closing the carriage and protecting ourselves as well as we could
from the driving rain, we went forward, passing the Quakers' burial
ground, where is said to be one of the finest views in Cornwall; the
Nine Maidens, a circle of Druidical stones, and many other interesting
things, without once looking at or thinking of them.
Half a mile from Marazion the rain ceased, and a light like that of the
rising moon began to break through the clouds. What a night it might
be, or might have been, could we have stayed at the Land's End!
That ghostly "might have been!" It is in great things as in small, the
worry, the torment, the paralysing burden of life. Away with it! We
have done our best to be happy, and we have been happy. We have seen
the Land's End.
DAY THE TWELFTH
Monday morning. Black Monday we were half inclined to call it, knowing
that by the week's end our travels must be over and done, and that if
we wished still to see all we had planned, we must inevitably next
morning return to civilisation and railways, a determination which
involved taking this night "a long, a last farewell" of our comfortable
carriage and our faithful Charles.
"But it needn't be until night," said he, evidently loth to part from
his ladies. "If I get back to Falmouth by daylight to-morrow morning,
master will be quite satisfied. I can take you wherever you like
to-day."
"And the horse?"
"Oh, he shall get a good feed and a rest till the middle of the night,
then he'll do well enough. We shall have the old moon after one o'clock
to get home by. Between Penzance and Falmouth it's a good road, though
rather lonely."
I should think it was, in the "wee hours" by the dim light of a waning
moon. But Charles seemed to care nothing about it, so we said no more,
but decided to take the drive--our last drive.
Our minds were perplexed between Botallack Mine, the Gurnard's Head,
Lamorna Cove, and several other places, which we were told we must on
no account miss seeing, the first especially. Some of us, blessed with
scientific relatives, almost dreaded returning home without having seen
a single Cornish mine; others, lovers of scenery, longed for more of
that magnificent coast. But finally, a meek little voice carried the
day.
[Illustration: SENNEN COVE. WAITING FOR THE BOATS.]
"I was so disappointed--more than I liked to say--when it rained,
and I couldn't get my shells for our bazaar. How shall I ever get them
now? If it wouldn't trouble anybody very much, mightn't we go again to
Whitesand Bay?"
A plan not wholly without charm. It was a heavenly day; to spend it
in delicious idleness on that wide sweep of sunshiny sand would be a
rest for the next day's fatigue. Besides, consolatory thought! there
would be no temptation to put on miners' clothes, and go dangling in
a basket down to the heart of the earth, as the Princess of Wales was
reported to have done. The pursuit of knowledge may be delightful, but
some of us owned to a secret preference for _terra firma_ and the upper
air. We resolved to face opprobrium, and declare boldly we had "no
time" (needless to add no inclination) to go and see Botallack Mine.
The Gurnard's Head cost us a pang to miss; but then we should catch a
second view of the Land's End. Yes, we would go to Whitesand Bay.
It was a far shorter journey in sunshine than in rain, even though we
made various divergencies for blackberries and other pleasures. Never
had the sky looked bluer or the sea brighter, and much we wished that
we could have wandered on in dreamy peace, day after day, or even gone
through England, gipsy-fashion, in a house upon wheels, which always
seemed to me the very ideal of travelling.
We reached Sennen only too soon. Pretty little Sennen, with its ancient
church and its new school house, where the civil schoolmaster gave me
some ink to write a post-card for those to whom even the post-mark
"Sennen" would have a touching interest, and where the boys and girls,
released for dinner, were running about. Board school pupils, no doubt,
weighted with an amount of learning which would have been appalling
to their grandfathers and grandmothers, the simple parishioners of
the "fine young fellow" half a century ago. As we passed through the
village with its pretty cottages and "Lodgings to Let," we could not
help thinking what a delightful holiday resort this would be for
a large small family, who could be turned out as we were when the
carriage could no farther go, on the wide sweep of green common,
gradually melting into silvery sand, so fine and soft that it was
almost a pleasure to tumble down the slopes, and get up again, shaking
yourself like a dog, without any sense of dirt or discomfort. What a
paradise for children, who might burrow like rabbits and wriggle about
like sand-eels, and never come to any harm!
Without thought of any danger, we began selecting our bathing-place,
shallow enough, with long strips of wet shimmering sand to be crossed
before reaching even the tiniest waves; when one of us, the cautious
one, appealed to an old woman, the only human being in sight.
"Bathe?" she said. "Folks ne'er bathe here. 'Tain't safe."
"Why not? Quicksands?"
She nodded her head. Whether she understood us or not, or whether we
quite understood her, I am not sure, and should be sorry to libel such
a splendid bathing ground--apparently. But maternal wisdom interposed,
and the girls yielded. When, half an hour afterwards, we saw a solitary
figure moving on a distant ledge of rock, and a black dot, doubtless
a human head, swimming or bobbing about in the sea beneath--maternal
wisdom was reproached as arrant cowardice. But the sand was delicious,
the sea-wind so fresh, and the sea so bright, that disappointment could
not last. We made an encampment of our various impedimenta, stretched
ourselves out, and began the search for shells, in which every
arm's-length involved a mine of wealth and beauty.
Never except at one place, on the estuary of the Mersey, have I
seen a beach made up of shells so lovely in colour and shape; very
minute; some being no bigger than a grain of rice or a pin's head. The
collecting of them was a fascination. We forgot all the historical
interests that ought to have moved us, saw neither Athelstan, King
Stephen, King John, nor Perkin Warbeck, each of whom is said to have
landed here--what were they to a tiny shell, like that moralised over
by Tennyson in "Maud"--"small, but a work divine"? I think infinite
greatness sometimes touches one less than infinite littleness--the
exceeding tenderness of Nature, or the Spirit which is behind Nature,
who can fashion with equal perfectness a starry hemisphere and a
glow-worm; an ocean and a little pink shell. The only imperfection in
creation seems--oh, strange mystery!--to be man. Why?
But away with moralising, or dreaming, though this was just a day for
dreaming, clear, bright, warm, with not a sound except the murmur
of the low waves, running in an enormous length--curling over and
breaking on the soft sands. Everything was so heavenly calm, it seemed
impossible to believe in that terrible scene when the captain and his
wife were seen clinging to the Brisons rock, just ahead.
Doubtless our friend of the _Agamemnon_ was telling this and all
his other stories to an admiring circle of tourists, for we saw the
Land's End covered with a moving swarm like black flies. How thankful
we felt that we had "done" it on a Sunday! Still, we were pleased
to have another gaze at it, with its line of picturesque rocks, the
Armed Knight and the Irish Lady--though, I confess, I never could make
out which was the knight and which was the lady. Can it be that some
fragment of the legend of Tristram and Iseult originated these names?
After several sweet lazy hours, we went through a "fish-cellar," a
little group of cottages, and climbed a headland, to take our veritable
farewell of the Land's End, and then decided to go home. We had rolled
or thrown our provision basket, rugs, &c., down the sandy slope, but it
was another thing to carry them up again. I went in quest of a small
boy, and there presented himself a big man, coastguard, as the only
unemployed hand in the place, who apologised with such a magnificent
air for not having "cleaned" himself, that I almost blushed to ask
him to do such a menial service as to carry a bundle of wraps. But
he accepted it, conversing amiably as we went, and giving me a most
graphic picture of life at Sennen during the winter. When he left me,
making a short cut to our encampment--a black dot on the sands, with
two moving black dots near it--a fisher wife joined me, and of her own
accord began a conversation.
She and I fraternised at once, chiefly on the subject of children, a
group of whom were descending the road from Sennen School. She told me
how many of them were hers, and what prizes they had gained, and what
hard work it was. She could neither read nor write, she said, but she
liked her children to be good scholars, and they learnt a deal up at
Sennen.
Apparently they did, and something else besides learning, for when I
had parted from my loquacious friend, I came up to the group just in
time to prevent a stand-up fight between two small mites, the _casus
belli_ of which I could no more arrive at, than a great many wiser
people can discover the origin of national wars. So I thought the
strong hand of "intervention"--civilised intervention--was best, and
put an end to it, administering first a good scolding, and then a coin.
The division of this coin among the little party compelled an extempore
sum in arithmetic, which I required them to do (for the excellent
reason that I couldn't do it myself!)--and they did it! Therefore I
conclude that the heads of the Sennen school-children are as solid as
their fists, and equally good for use.
[Illustration: ON THE ROAD TO ST. NIGHTON'S KEEVE.]
Simple little community! which as the fisher wife told me, only goes to
Penzance about once a year, and is, as yet, innocent of tourists, for
the swarm at the Land's End seldom goes near Whitesand Bay. Existence
here must be very much that of an oyster,--but perhaps oysters are
happy.
By the time we reached Penzance the lovely day was dying into an
equally lovely evening. St. Michael's Mount shone in the setting sun.
It was high water, the bay was all alive with boats, and there was
quite a little crowd of people gathered at the mild little station of
Marazion. What could be happening?
A princess was expected, that young half-English, half-foreign
princess, in whose romantic story the British public has taken such an
interest, sympathising with the motherly kindness of our good Queen,
with the wedding at Windsor, and the sad little infant funeral there,
a year after. The Princess Frederica of Hanover, and the Baron Von
Pawel-Rammingen, her father's secretary, who, like a stout mediæval
knight, had loved, wooed, and married her, were coming to St. Michael's
Mount on a visit to the St. Aubyns.
Marazion had evidently roused itself, and risen to the occasion. Half
the town must have turned out to the beach, and the other half secured
every available boat, in which it followed, at respectful distance,
the two boats, one full of luggage, the other of human beings, which
were supposed to be the royal party. People speculated with earnest
curiosity, which was the princess, and which her husband, and what the
St. Aubyns would do with them; whether they would be taken to see the
Land's End, and whether they would go there as ordinary tourists, or in
a grand visit of state. How hard it is that royal folk can never see
anything except in state, or in a certain adventitious garb, beautiful,
no doubt, but satisfactorily hiding the real thing. How they must long
sometimes for a walk, after the fashion of Haroun Alraschid, up and
down Regent Street and Oxford Street! or an incognito foreign tour, or
even a solitary country walk, without a "lady-in-waiting."
We had no opera-glass to add to the many levelled at those two boats,
so we went in--hoping host and guests would spend a pleasant evening in
the lovely old rooms we knew. We spent ours in rest, and in arranging
for to-morrow's flight. Also in consulting with our kindly landlady
as to a possible house at Marazion for some friends whom the winter
might drive southwards, like the swallows, to a climate which, in this
one little bay shut out from east and north, is--they told us--during
all the cruel months which to many of us means only enduring life, not
living--as mild and equable almost as the Mediterranean shores. And
finally, we settled all with our faithful Charles, who looked quite
mournful at parting with his ladies.
"Yes, it is rather a long drive, and pretty lonely," said he. "But I'll
wait till the moons up, and that'll help us. We'll get into Falmouth
by daylight. I've got to do the same thing often enough through the
summer, so I don't mind it."
Thus said the good fellow, putting a cheery face on it, then with a
hasty "Good-bye, ladies," he rushed away. But we had taken his address,
not meaning to lose sight of him. (Nor have we done so up to this date
of writing; and the fidelity has been equal on both sides.)
Then, in the midst of a peal of bells which was kept up unweariedly
till 10 P.M.--evidently Marazion is not blessed with the sight
of a princess every day--we closed our eyes upon all outward things,
and went away to the Land of Nod.
DAY THE THIRTEENTH
Into King Arthurs land--Tintagel his birth-place, and Camelford,
where he fought his last battle--the legendary region of which one
may believe as much or as little as one pleases--we were going
to-day. With the good common sense which we flattered ourselves had
accompanied every step of our unsentimental journey, we had arranged
all before-hand, ordered a carriage to meet the mail train, and hoped
to find at Tintagel--not King Uther Pendragon, King Arthur or King
Mark, but a highly respectable landlord, who promised us a welcome at
an inn--which we only trusted would be as warm and as kindly as that we
left behind us at Marazion.
The line of railway which goes to the far west of England is one of the
prettiest in the kingdom on a fine day, which we were again blessed
with. It had been a wet summer, we heard, throughout Cornwall, but
in all our journey, save that one wild storm at the Lizard, sunshine
scarcely ever failed us. Now--whether catching glimpses of St. Ives
Bay or sweeping through the mining district of Redruth, and the wooded
country near Truro, Grampound, and St. Austell, till we again saw the
glittering sea on the other side of Cornwall--all was brightness. Then
darting inland once more, our iron horse carried us past Lostwithiel,
the little town which once boasted Joseph Addison, M.P., as its
representative; gave us a fleeting vision of Ristormel, one of the
ancient castles of Cornwall, and on through a leafy land, beginning to
change from rich green to the still richer yellows and reds of autumn,
till we stopped at Bodmin Road.
[Illustration: TINTAGEL.]
No difficulty in finding our carriage, for it was the only one there;
a huge vehicle, of ancient build, the horses to match, capable of
accommodating a whole family and its luggage. We missed our compact
little machine, and our brisk, kindly Charles, but soon settled
ourselves in dignified, roomy state, for the twenty miles, or rather
more, which lay between us and the coast. Our way ran along lonely
quiet country roads and woods almost as green as when Queen Guinevere
rode through them "a maying," before the dark days of her sin and King
Arthur's death.
Here it occurs to me, as it did this day to a practical youthful mind,
"What in the world do people know about King Arthur?"
Well, most people have read Tennyson, and a few are acquainted with
the "Morte d'Arthur" of Sir Thomas Malory. But, perhaps I had better
briefly give the story, or as much of it as is necessary for the
edification of outsiders.
Uther Pendragon, King of Britain, falling in love with Ygrayne, wife of
the duke of Cornwall, besieged them in their twin castles of Tintagel
and Terrabil, slew the husband, and the same day married the wife. Unto
whom a boy was born, and by advice of the enchanter Merlin, carried
away, from the sea-shore beneath Tintagel, and confided to a good
knight, Sir Ector, to be brought up as his own son, and christened
Arthur. On the death of the king, Merlin produced the youth, who was
recognized by his mother Ygrayne, and proclaimed king in the stead
of Uther Pendragon. He instituted the Order of Knights of the Round
Table, who were to go everywhere, punishing vice and rescuing oppressed
virtue, for the love of God and of some noble lady. He married
Guinevere, daughter of King Leodegrance, who forsook him for the love
of Sir Launcelot, his bravest knight and dearest friend. One by one,
his best knights fell away into sin, and his nephew Mordred raised a
rebellion, fought with him, and conquered him at Camelford. Seeing his
end was near, Arthur bade his last faithful knight, Sir Bedevere, carry
him to the shore of a mere (supposed to be Dozmare Pool) and throw in
there his sword Excalibur; when appeared a boat with three queens,
who lifted him in, mourning over him. With them he sailed away across
the mere, to be healed of his grievous wound. Some say that he was
afterwards buried in a chapel near, others declare that he lives still
in fairy land, and will reappear in latter days, to reinstate the Order
of Knights of the Round Table, and rule his beloved England, which will
then be perfect as he once tried to make it, but in vain.
Camelford of to-day is certainly not the Camelot of King Arthur--but
a very respectable, commonplace little town, much like other country
towns; the same genteel linendrapers' and un-genteel ironmongers'
shops; the same old-established commercial inn, and a few ugly, but
solid-looking private houses, with their faces to the street and
their backs nestled in gardens and fields. Some of the inhabitants of
these said houses were to be seen taking a quiet afternoon stroll.
Doubtless they are eminently respectable and worthy folk, leading a
mild provincial life like the people in Miss Martineau's _Deerbrook_,
or Miss Austen's _Pride and Prejudice_--of which latter quality they
have probably a good share.
We let our horses rest, but we ourselves felt not the slightest wish to
rest at Camelford, so walked leisurely on till we came to the little
river Camel, and to Slaughter Bridge, said to be the point where King
Arthur's army was routed and where he received his death-wound. A
slab of stone, some little distance up the stream, is still called
"King Arthur's Tomb." But as his coffin is preserved, as well as his
Round Table, at Winchester; where, according to mediæval tradition,
the bodies of both Arthur and Guinevere were found, and the head
of Guinevere had yellow hair; also that near the little village of
Davidstow, is a long barrow, having in the centre a mound, which is
called "King Arthur's grave"--inquiring minds have plenty of "facts" to
choose from. Possibly at last they had better resort to fiction, and
believe in Arthur's disappearance, as Tennyson makes him say,
"To the island-valley of Avillion ...
Where I may heal me of my grievous wound."
Dozmare Pool we found so far out of our route that we had to make a
virtue of necessity, and imagine it all; the melancholy moorland lake,
with the bleak hill above it, and stray glimpses of the sea beyond.
A ghostly spot, and full of many ghostly stories besides the legend
of Arthur. Here Tregeagle, the great demon of Cornwall, once had his
dwelling, until, selling his soul to the devil, his home was sunk to
the bottom of the mere, and himself is heard of stormy nights, wailing
round it with other ghost-demons, in which the Cornish mind still
lingeringly believes. Visionary packs of hounds; a shadowy coach and
horses, which drives round and round the pool, and then drives into it;
flitting lights, kindled by no human hand, in places where no human
foot could go--all these tales are still told by the country folk, and
we might have heard them all. Might also have seen, in fancy, the flash
of the "brand Excalibur"; heard the wailing song of the three queens;
and pictured the dying Arthur lying on the lap of his sister Morgane la
Faye. But, I forgot, this is an un-sentimental journey.
The Delabole quarries are as un-sentimental a place as one could
desire. It was very curious to come suddenly upon this world of slate,
piled up in enormous masses on either side the road, and beyond them
hills of debris, centuries old--for the mines have been worked ever
since the time of Queen Elizabeth. Houses, walls, gates, fences,
everything that can possibly be made of slate, is made. No green or
other colour tempers the all-pervading shade of bluish-grey, for
vegetation in the immediate vicinity of the quarries is abolished,
the result of which would be rather dreary, save for the cheerful
atmosphere of wholesome labour, the noise of waggons, horses,
steam-engines--such a contrast to the silence of the deserted tin-mines.
But, these Delabole quarries passed, silence and solitude come back
again. Even the yearly-increasing influx of tourists fails to make
the little village of Trevena anything but a village, where the
said tourists lounge about in the one street, if it can be called a
street, between the two inns and the often-painted, picturesque old
post-office. Everything looked so simple, so home-like, that we were
amused to find we had to get ready for a _table d'hôte_ dinner, in
the only available eating room where the one indefatigable waitress,
a comely Cornish girl, who seemed Argus and Briareus rolled into one,
served us--a party small enough to make conversation general, and
pleasant and intelligent enough to make it very agreeable, which does
not always happen at an English hotel.
Then we sallied out to find the lane which leads to Tintagel Castle,
or Castles--for one sits in the sea, the other on the opposite heights
in the mainland, with power of communicating by the narrow causeway
which now at least exists between the rock and the shore. This seems to
confirm the legend, how the luckless husband of Ygrayne shut up himself
and his wife in two castles, he being slain in the one, and she married
to the victorious King Uther Pendragon, in the other.