now almost dead and gone, at least in West Kerry. In our part of
the county it was a very innocent amusement, and I never heard of
a single instance in which it was abused. The custom was this: At
Christmas a piece of mistletoe was hung up over the doorway leading
into the kitchen or some other favorable place, and whenever a
young girl stood under it a young man claimed--and nearly always
exercised--a right to kiss the girl and pluck off a berry for each
kiss. Sometimes in the town of Dingle two or three young men would
stand on a street corner having a piece of mistletoe with them and
would kiss every girl that happened to come their way. A girl who
would make persons believe that she was running away trying to avoid
being kissed by the boys was sure to be hunted until caught; then the
mistletoe would be held over her head until she was given at least a
half-dozen kisses by each of her captors.
Although it is the relic of pagan days, the mistletoe was hung up
in churches during Christmas, but because young people, instead of
praying and assisting properly at mass, were kissing, courting and
rehearsing the marriage ceremony over eligibles, thereby causing the
whole congregation to pass from one uproar of laughter into another,
both the mistletoe and the kisses were abolished, and the holly, with
its numerous thorns, substituted for the mistletoe, thereby warning
them of the fact that going through marriage was like drawing them
through a thicket of holly and briars, the thorns of which might
pierce them to the quick.
_Mother Carey's Chickens or Stormy Petrels._--This was the term
applied to flocks of small web-footed birds about the size of a
chicken or even smaller than blackbirds. Their appearance is neat
and they are always on the wing. They are found pretty numerous at
times in the Blasket Islands and Skellig Rocks, but their whole time
is spent on the ocean. The reason they are called "Mother Carey's
Chickens" is because fishermen and local sailors say they are the
first and most reliable birds to give sailors warning of the approach
of a storm by rushing in flocks towards them whistling "Wee, wee!"
But I do not know how correct that can be, for I find that their
greatest delight is in rough weather and storms. The meaning of
the expression, "Mother Carey," is said to be "Mother Dear," and is
intended for the Virgin Mary, due to the fact that she was considered
the patroness of sailors.
In the daytime these birds never seem to swim, but while on the wing
allow their feet to touch the water, and naturalists say from its
walking appearance upon the waves like the Apostle Peter, the name
"Petrel" was applied to them.
Whenever superstitious sailors of other countries see a flock of
these merry sea birds following their ship, they try to kill them,
owing to the birds' delight in storms. They believe bad luck follows
their trail, that they cause storms, and they call them the "devil's
birds," but the truth is that as they don't appear to dive like other
sea birds they more easily pick up their food from the surge than in
calm water. (See my "History of the Skellig and Blasket Islands" for
an account of these birds.)
_Mug._--The large wooden mug, cups and gallons are now out of use.
However, a few can still be found in country homes.
_Mugs._--A name given to a party of striplings who went around first
kissing the pretty girls and making mouths at the coarse and older
ones. In course of time, rough and ignorant characters joined in and
became such a nuisance that the girls protested against them and
called them "Mugs," no doubt after the Muns of England, who carried
on much the same practice with the breaking of windows, wrenching of
knockers added. The latter too was extended to those parts by the
rowdy element.
_Pagan Wells, Lises and Fairy Tales._--Lises are found everywhere in
the barony. They were erected within view of each other, so that in
event of an attack on one lis or a fort a fire kept burning would be
extinguished as an alarm signal. These forts are surrounded by the
best quality of land in their immediate vicinity. Fairy tales are
connected with every one of them. Some people frightened the lives in
little children with fairy tales and ghost stories. Those stories had
this much of a foundation in our locality: In the beginning of the
Eighteenth Century when the British law prohibited the exportation or
sale of wool to any other country but to themselves, farmers became
engaged in smuggling wool to France, where they received as high as
two shilling, sixpence (sixty cents) a pound from France. Cutters
brought wines and brandies with them, which were often hidden in
specially prepared chambers in forts, lises and cahirs, near the sea
coast. To keep children away so as not to give information, they
told them that the men seen in those forts and lises were fairies.
This helped to prolong the life of the old tales. Every cave to
the west of Dingle was filled with wool, trying to smuggle it to a
convenient place for loading it into ships. The French pretended
they were carrying from Ireland emigrants called the "Wild Geese,"
i. e., Catholics who were forbidden by law to live in Ireland. The
magistrates who were supposed to stop it were engaged in this illicit
trade. Amongst the most objectionable was their description of the
headless coach leaving a burial ground going in the direction of some
dying person and returning with its victim, the Banshee's lonely
wail, the appearance of a golden-haired woman courting with fairy
pleasure some fine young man trying to take him into fairyland.
However, worse still were their representations of dances at the
ancient crossroads by young men and maidens years in their graves,
long funeral processions of the dead at night through certain roads
in which a living companion of the dead would pretend to see and
recognize some of his dead neighbors and at the same time he would
order those in his company who could see nothing wrong to step aside
and let the dead pass.
The least objectionable fables are the mermaids and their enchanted
capes and the enchanted music of the dead, how St. Patrick tricked
the snakes and serpents, the appearance of strange and mysterious
ships at sea leading sailors and fishermen to their doom, the
Broack-an-rubber, Feon Macoal, Diamond and Grana, chieftains clad in
white armor riding on horses shod with gold shoes galloping through
the country every May morning and serpents in lake.
Pagan wells, too, were deemed sacred because old Druids washed and
dressed the wounds of soldiers and persons injured in them.
_Patron Days._--These are held where Christian churches were erected,
consecrated and dedicated to that particular saint whose festival
falls on or about the day on which the patron is held. It was so
very hard to overthrow pagan celebrations, which continued for a
long time after the dawn of Christianity in Ireland, the clergy, and
wise Christians, too, admonished the people to abandon the custom
of attending pagan meetings in mountains and other like places and
started sports on patron days close to their churches, and in this
manner completely exterminated the adoration of idols.
In the middle of the last century, excessive drinking and an
occasional street fight tended to degrade them. Long ago they served
their purpose and at present no objection could be held against them
if they were held completely dry.[16]
_Penitent Pilgrims of the Cat-Brack._--Catholics attending Protestant
Bible classes, reading their literature or listening to a funeral
service during the fearful religious quarrels of what is known as the
"Souper campaign," as a part of their penance had to go from Dingle
to Killarney, a distance of over forty miles. Some very old men did
the journey on foot. Amongst the reasons for taking exception to
a funeral service was that Protestant writers, in boasting of the
success of their mission, classed Roman Catholics standing around
the coffin while the funeral service was read at the graveside as
"converts" to Protestantism. The result was that Catholics attending
the funeral of a Protestant neighbor or relative would accompany the
corpse no further than the gate to the graveyard or burial ground or
keep a reasonable distance away until the religious services were
ended.
_Racing at Weddings._--The custom of men riding saddle horses, racing
with each other to see who would be the first to reach the newly
married girl to bring her home to the wedding, is now almost dead
and gone, but the spirit survives.
_Red Lighted Coals of Fire Given Out of the House._--Old women in
country villages prevented fire to be given out of their houses,
and insisted on all men smoking extinguishing all the fire in their
pipes before leaving the house was, I believe, the most ignorant
superstition I ever saw practiced. A farmer's wife feared that if you
should carry a lighted pipe from their house into another, it would
enable the person carrying same to transfer milk and butter from one
farmer to another, and he could do many other things.
_Rounds._--Paying rounds around holy wells and shrines are very much
on the decline.
_Shea-Hated by the Mermaids of the Sea._--It is almost impossible
for persons bearing the name of Shea or O'Shea to obtain partners to
join them fishing in any harbor in the barony, due to the fact that
people are afraid that if they had an O'Shea or Shea in their boats
or canoes they would be drowned. For this belief a thousand reasons
are sometimes given. However, after setting aside tales appertaining
to mermaids, spirits of the deep, legends and superstitions, the
striking fact remains that of the names of persons drowned in this
peninsula within the last century the surname of Shea or O'Shea
outstrip all others, and this is the more remarkable when taken into
consideration that through fear in storms very few of them will take
the risks of their fellow fishermen. Possibly when caught in sea
trouble the want of confidence arising from superstition may have
something to do with it.
_Snap Apple Nights, or All Hallow Eve._--This night falls on the 31st
of October. Up until near the end of the last century, it was a night
of sport by young people in those parts by trying to extract fun and
prophecy from fruit and beans. Amongst other things, they place beans
together in pairs in the ashes close to the heat of the fire for the
supposed lovers, one named for the boy and the other for the girl.
If the beans burn brightly and quietly together, it indicated that
the young man and the young girl so indicated would be married, but
if they cracked and jumped apart from each other they would never be
married. From the ashes many a strange tale would be foretold. After
one pair jumped apart, another pair of beans would be tried and some
other likely lovers named for each.
Young persons also would dip for apples in tubs of water and endeavor
to bring one up in the mouth by pressing it against the bottom of the
tub. Sometimes an apple would hang from a cord and they would try
to catch it with their mouths while in circular motion. In catching
apples, hands should not be used.
I knew of one girl who privately melted lead several times and each
time threw it into water, in hopes that she could foresee her future
husband to be a ploughman possessing horses, cattle and ploughs. I
know that she got married to a farmer, not because the lead and water
conveyed anything of the kind, but her heart and mind was set on
having a farmer as her husband.
This is a superstitious practice handed down to us from the Druids.
Formerly these things were a ceremony of belief, but with few
exceptions in our parts this superstitious belief has disappeared and
now they have become things of pure sport. Other nationalities in
Europe are still found quite superstitious about All Hallow Eve.
_Steel-Pen Coats._--These steel-pen frize woolen coats and
knee-breeches ornamented with brass buttons and commonly worn up
toward the last quarter of the last century are now nearly extinct in
those parts.
_St. Martin's Eve._--It appears that St. Martin was buried on the
11th of November. In some country homes amongst farmers I noticed
that on St. Martin's Eve some animal was killed, such as a goose, a
duck, a hen or a cock, and that the outside threshold of the door
was sprinkled with the blood of the animal killed for St. Martin.
Some went as far as to sprinkle the four corners of their dwelling
houses with blood. I believe this had a Christian charitable origin
and in the course of age lost its true meaning and character. Whether
Christian or pagan, it is a very curious custom, and I see no good in
it for the present age.
_St. Patrick and the Snakes._--Are there any snakes to be found in
Ireland? Did St. Patrick banish them? These are questions which
Americans ask me daily. My answer to the first question is that I
never saw nor heard of any snake living in Ireland since the days
of St. Patrick. Ireland does not produce any venomous reptile. The
following are _not_ to be found there, viz., snakes, tortoises,
scorpions or dragons. Leeches, lizards and frogs are numerous, but
these are harmless. I am told that snakes brought over to Ireland
will die or lose their venom before they land. Sailors who say they
have tried it tell me that as they were drawing near the land the
snakes died. Circuses will not attempt to cross the Irish Sea from
England with their snakes for fear of losing them. People living in
Ireland never saw a snake. The reasons given by some naturalists for
snakes not living in Ireland are not identical.
Now, with regard to St. Patrick banishing the snakes and all other
poisonous reptiles out of Ireland, both tradition and legend says he
did it but it is not supported by historical documents. According to
ancient writings, snakes were found in Ireland before the Christian
era. There is full and clear evidence that some of the people adored
idols made into the imitation of snakes, and also dead snakes,
and that these were collected and delivered up by newly converted
Christians to St. Patrick and with their full accord the idols were
destroyed by him and thrown into a lake. Beyond that I cannot go,
and I regret to say here I must leave the reader to draw his own
conclusions.
The very early Catholic Church historians in Ireland did not mention
a word about St. Patrick's connection with the snakes. St. Patrick
left behind him a written document called his "Confession," and in
this there is no mention of the snakes. However, many years after his
death--some centuries--Irish historians stated clearly that it was
St. Patrick who banished the snakes. English historians up to the
Twelfth and Thirteenth centuries agreed with the Irish historians of
that period, and, for the reason that snakes would live in the Isle
of Man, they (the English) classified that island as more properly
belonging to England.
If St. Patrick had nothing to do with the live snakes--and I suppose
he had not--there must be something very strange in the air or soil
of Ireland. It is more remarkable still when we consider that if
snakes which live in the British Isles will die on their arrival in
Ireland, and many of them, it is said, before they ever touch the
Irish soil, and that science so far has not discovered any means to
overcome it. It is also said that if pure Irish earth was scattered
in a garden snakes would become scarce.
_St. Stephen's Day._--As everybody knows, this day falls on the 26th
of December. A peculiar custom connected with this day still lingers
in those parts. Men dressed in straw or like women, wearing masks
with face blackened, carrying flags, a bush with a wren fastened to
it, and having a fife and drum band playing about them, parade the
streets. They dance and make merriment and are always followed by a
big crowd. One of the company carries a white hobbyhorse, which is
an imitation of a horse made of wood and covered with white calico.
Under the hobbyhorse the party are supposed to have one of their best
dancers. The under jaw of the hobbyhorse is to work with a string so
that it cracks in time with his step and also the steps of all the
dancers. This part of the program is not easily done and therefore is
often neglected. After dancing a little, they change the performance
and the hobbyhorse, carrying a ladle in its mouth, is sent around to
collect contributions while a purser enters the horse beating every
person with bladders tied onto the end of a stick.
It appears these sports originated at the Feast of Fools in the
Christian churches and monasteries of other countries from whom we
borrowed them. St. Stephen's Day was specially set aside for deacons
and other orders of the clergy who were not able to enjoy Christmas
owing to the extra religious labors cast upon them.
Coupled with this came the mistletoe, and, to act in the plays,
laymen, too, were admitted. Whenever it was necessary to raise
funds for the repair of some church, dances were performed in the
churchyard on Sundays. The surplus of the funds, after paying for
the repair of the church, went to the support of the poor. In the
course of ages abuses set in and now the performers have the proceeds
themselves.
_Sunburst of Erin._--In pagan days most of the Irish people looked
towards the east for the rising sun and adored it. The most ancient
flag of our country known was, I believe, a sky-blue field with a
sunburst. In a field belonging to Mr. P. Lynch is a large stone
bearing an ancient sunburst emblem upon it. (For Ogham's inscribed
stones, see History County Kerry.)
_Toothache Cure._--The cure given by some old women for toothache
was to have the sufferer in person enter a churchyard burial ground,
find a dead man's finger or coffin nail and place it in his mouth,
pressing the tooth several times into it. This practice was long ago
abandoned.
_Witches (Witch Hare)._--When I was a little boy I found a few old
women possessed of a horrid superstitious belief to the effect that
an old witch (a woman) could change herself into a hare, and as such
would go about lises, forts and like haunted places and therefrom
enter fields and milk cows dry.[17]
FOOTNOTES:
[12] In old Mexico a large wooden cross marks the spot where murders
have taken place. On my way over the mountains and grand canyons
between Beristan (Carman) and Tepexico. In the State of Pueblo, I
saw houses very often having two and three crosses near them, and
also that the gable ends of their houses were crowned with one or
more crosses. Having heard a good deal of talk about the bandits and
murders of that part of the country through which I was passing, I
asked if all those crosses which I saw represented murders only. I
was informed by the Indians, and Mexicans themselves, that it was for
a long time the custom to erect crosses where sudden deaths occurred
from other causes, such as suicides, man or woman devoured by a wild
beast, or the like, as well as in cases of murder and manslaughter.
Furthermore, they told me (through an Italian as interpreter) that
the crosses upon so many Indian houses were an exhibition of their
attachment to the cross of Christ. I found Pueblo a strong Catholic
State, and the crosses are put standing, as near as circumstances
will permit, to where the murdered man expired, and if possible in
view of persons passing by as an appeal to the traveler to pray for
the soul of the person or persons who fell there.
Amongst other curious customs practiced by those queer people the
following were impressed on my memory: That Mexico City has funeral
street cars, which I have not seen in any other part of the world. To
understand my point more clearly, the electric street cars running
on rails with an electric car as a hearse, pick up the dead bodies
and carry them to the graveyard or cemetery. Here the coffin is
unlocked and the corpse must be examined and clearly identified to
the complete satisfaction of the caretaker, after which the coffin
is again locked and the corpse buried in a grave or tomb leased for
seven years. At the end of seven years or thereabouts, out of the
tomb or grave the remains must go unless the lease is renewed or the
grave bought forever at an enormous sum of about $400.
As I had not sufficient command of the Spanish language to enable me
to put the question direct to the natives and obtain information from
their lips without the assistance of an interpreter, the figures set
down for me as the prices of a grave are so much at variance, as well
as the form of procedure in evicting a dead man from his grave in
Mexico, that I leave that part of the matter to abler authorities.
In connection with the wakes of their dead, in our camps I noticed
that they did drink a milk-like liquid called "pulgue," extracted
from the mague or century plant. It has the taste, color and
appearance of milk, but it is so intoxicating that if a person should
drink any large quantity of it he would become so drunk and helpless
that a stranger would believe he was dead and would never wake again.
At the few wakes that came under my notice, the Mexicans were very
orderly and showed every mark of respect to the dead. I believe there
were no pipes or tobacco at those wakes, or if there were any they
escaped my notice. At San Francisco, California, the Chinese put food
on their burial plots for their dead, but the "hoboes" visiting that
city steal the food and eat it as often as they can get at it.
[13] Dancing masters between 1775 and 1780 were paid sixpence (twelve
cents) a quarter with meals for teaching dancing to a whole family.
However, a dancing master's quarter was much less than three months.
[14] The custom of hanging bells to horses, cattle, sheep and goats
is very common in the Republic of Old Mexico, also in the States
of Nevada and California in the United States. Without those bells
goats, sheep and cattle could not be located amongst the thick brush.
[15] Whisky is the water of death to every person. The saloonkeeper,
or publican, who gives drink to a child or young girl under the age
of 21 years is the devil's best agent on earth.
[16] It is strange that the whole of the great Northwestern States
of America, by the vote of the people, made their States completely
dry, and that without compensation to the saloonkeeper, yet our
people, amongst whom it has such a ruinous effect, cannot hold a
Christian patron day without traffic in intoxicating liquors. In the
United States a minor dare not enter a saloon, and a saloonkeeper
is debarred from entering almost all lodges--even many Christian
churches have refused to accept their money; yet in our parts a
publican will be elected a district and county councillor before most
other persons in the neighborhood.
[17] On one occasion on a very fine summer's morning in a lis about
a mile away from the village, I happened to see a hare eating grass,
and I tried to chase it, but as the hare was too swift for me and
I had nothing better than pebbles to throw at it, of course it
escaped at ease. In great haste I returned to the village and took
with me a young shepherd dog which belonged to one of the neighbors
and which was in the habit of following me. However, when I reached
the lis there was no trace of my hare to be found and I felt very
disappointed, especially when the dog would not go and find him for
me. I came home and there I asked them to assist me to hunt for the
hare, but they only laughed at me and told me that long ago the
hare was gone to the mountain, and to catch a hare I should have a
greyhound instead of a shepherd puppy. After nightfall I wandered
into one of the neighbor's houses and joined other boys who were
listening to some fairy tales. Here I was cross-examined as to the
cause of my excitement and had to account for the nature of the
mischief I was engaged in that I wanted the dog so early in the
morning. I told them about my experience with the hare in the lis,
but, while the whole house enjoyed my hunt, there was one in the
company who took a more serious view of it. I was told that in all
probability it was no hare but a witch, and if I escaped from injury
I ought to consider myself lucky.