it will be a mere froth that shows a disposition to liquefy, and cannot
be piled up. When this is the case there is always a great waste of
cream, for at least half will have been left as a milky residue. The
reason for this failure of the cream to whip solid is generally because
it is too fresh or too warm.
If in proper condition, cream will whip as solid as white of eggs, and
leave not a teaspoonful of liquid at the bottom of the bowl; nor will
there be the least danger of cream so whipped going back to liquid. It
will become sour, but not change its form; and it will take but a few
minutes to beat.
Cream intended for whipping should be twenty-four hours old in warm
weather, and thirty-six in winter. It should also be thoroughly chilled,
and if the day is very warm it would be better to set the bowl
containing it on ice while whipping it. Put in the whip, or egg-beater,
and _do not_ lift the froth off as it rises; it is quite unnecessary if
the vessel you use for the cream is large enough. As you see it begin to
thicken, which will be after steady beating for five or six minutes,
keep on just as you would for white of eggs. When the beater is
withdrawn you should be able to cut the cream or pile it any height. If
by reason of excessive heat it is slow in reaching the proper
consistency, leave the beater in the bowl, and set the whole on the ice
until very cold again.
The consistency of jelly should be only just stiff enough to keep form.
It should shake and tremble while being served instead of remaining
solid. It requires some little practice to make sure of this every time,
although exact proportions be given. A tablespoonful difference in the
pint or gill measure would, where the gelatine is only just enough,
cause the jelly to "squat"--not an elegant term, but one that represents
the form of a too soft jelly.
A very exact recipe for plain claret jelly, and which in proportions
serves for any other unless special mention is made of some variation,
is as follows: Three quarters of a pint of water, one pint of claret, a
quarter of a pint of lemon juice (this makes one quart of liquid), the
rind of one lemon, half an inch of cinnamon in the stick and two cloves,
one tablespoonful of red currant jelly, two ounces of gelatine, the
whites and shells of two eggs, a few drops of cochineal, and four ounces
of sugar; put all in a stewpan, the gelatine having been softened in a
little of the water; whisk over the fire until the whole boils; then
draw it off, let it stand for five to ten minutes; strain through
flannel or fine linen _without pressure_, add a few drops of cochineal
to brighten the color, and mould for use.
Use great care in selecting cinnamon, for very much that is sold is not
the true spice, but a cheaper one (cassia) that resembles it. Cinnamon
has a bright tan-color, is rolled many times, and is not much thicker
than paper when a piece is unrolled. Cassia is thicker in the roll, a
dull brown, and if a piece is broken is like a piece of wood. It is
similar in flavor, but much coarser, and has little strength.
XXIV.
JELLIES.--_Continued._
If it is kept in mind that two ounces of gelatine to the quart of liquid
is the right proportion, and that if even a tablespoonful of flavoring,
fruit juice, or what not, is added, exactly the same quantity of other
liquid must be omitted, there will not be much danger of formless jelly.
Many forget this when not working from an exact recipe, and remembering
only that a quart of cream or water or wine requires two ounces of
gelatine to set it, they do not deduct for the glass of wine or juice of
lemon, etc., they may add for flavoring. Although wine jelly is rather a
simple form of sweet, suggestive of innocent country teas, a very little
more time than the average housekeeper bestows upon it will convert it
into a very elegant dish. In the season for fruits there is no more
beautiful ornament for jelly than these, carefully gathered, with two or
three leaves attached.
_Jelly with Fresh Fruits._--Select cherries of two or three colors if
possible, in sprays of two or three, and on each a leaf or two; wash
them carefully by dipping them in and out of a bowl of water. Lay them
between soft cloths to remove all moisture. Make a quart of punch jelly
in the following way: Put together a pint of water, a quarter of a pint
of the finest Santa Cruz or Jamaica rum, a quarter of a pint of sherry,
a gill and a half of lemon juice, the rinds of two lemons, and the juice
of one orange, or, if oranges are not to be obtained in cherry season,
half a gill more of water, two ounces of gelatine, half an inch of
cinnamon, the whites of two eggs well beaten and the shells crushed. Let
this come to a boil over the fire, being well whisked the while; as soon
as it boils draw it to a cool spot on the range, let it stand five
minutes, and strain through scalded flannel over a bowl; let it drip,
but do not use the least pressure. This jelly must be brilliantly clear.
If there is any milky appearance it proves that the jelly did not really
boil, and so the eggs had not completely coagulated; in that event boil
once more for an instant, and strain again through fresh flannel. Oil a
mould that has no design of fruit or vegetable at the bottom, and set it
in cracked ice; pour in an inch or two of the jelly when nearly cold.
Have the cherries ice cold, and arrange the sprays gracefully with due
regard to color, remembering that the best effect must be not upward
towards you, but towards the bottom of the mould; thus the underside of
the leaves must be upward, etc. Do not put in more fruit than will
display itself well. The bunches are to be isolated, not allowed to
touch each other, and for this reason it may not be possible to lay more
than one cluster at the bottom, if the mould is small there. In this
case dispose a bunch of black cherries and leaves gracefully in the
centre, pour in more jelly, half an inch or so, then nearer the sides
arrange lighter-colored cherries, two or three clusters, no more. The
fruit is only intended as an ornament. A jelly that is quite as pretty
may be made by using clusters of red and white, or red, white, and black
currants. The red and white ones should have two or three young leaves
attached, and each cluster be perfect; no black-currant leaves must be
used, as they have a strong flavor.
_Jelly with Candied Fruits._--Make a quart of maraschino jelly, which is
done by omitting the rum, lemon, and cinnamon from the last recipe, and
using in place of rum a gill of maraschino, and water in place of lemon
juice. The jelly must be very pale. Choose the fruits of as bright
colors as possible--small green oranges, red cherries, bright yellow
mirabelles, angelica perfectly green. Cut the oranges in half--two or
three will suffice--leave mirabelles and cherries whole; apricots cut
in half-moons. The angelica, if cut across a quarter-inch thick, will
form rings, but if something more ornamental is desired it can be split
lengthwise, softened in hot water, wiped, then tied into small
love-knots. Pour into a mould set in ice (the melon shape is excellent
for these jellies) an inch of jelly, let it set; then scatter in a few
pieces of bright-colored fruit, always the best side downward; pour in
an inch more of jelly, and when set more fruit, keeping the brighter
pieces towards the side; if you have knots of angelica, put them near
the side. Always see that one layer of fruit and jelly is nearly set
before adding more.
Although fruits added to jellies in the way just described are chiefly
for decorative effect, they do add very greatly to the pleasure of
eating them; but jellied fruits, as distinguished from _fruits in
jelly_, are a delicious mode of eating fruit, and where it is in
abundance afford a pleasant variety.
_Jellied Raspberries._--Melt two ounces of gelatine in a gill of water,
squeeze half a pint of currant juice from fresh currants, and crush as
many red raspberries as will with the liquid fill a quart measure. It is
almost impossible to give definite directions for sugar, as fruits
differ so much. Stir in six ounces, then if not sweet enough add more;
mould the jelly, and serve with cream.
This is also very nice put in a border mould, the centre filled with
whipped cream.
_Roman Punch Jellies._--These require stiff paper cases of any of the
ornamental kinds used for ice-cream, but they must not flare. Make some
maraschino or wine jelly. When it begins to set, pour the jelly into the
cases, which must be on ice, so that half the fluid jelly may set before
it has time to soak the case. When quite set, very carefully remove the
centre, leaving a shell of jelly half an inch thick. The last thing
before serving fill the centres with well-frozen Roman-punch ice.
_A Macedoine_ of fruits, if well managed and a good assortment of
fruits can be had, is a very ornamental way of serving fruit. A mould
should have half an inch of maraschino, punch, wine, or lemon jelly
poured into it; then some perfect strawberries, or, failing those, red
cherries, as many as the jelly will hold together without crowding, no
more; then more jelly, and a layer of fruit of another kind (white, if
possible), as pineapple cut into stars--a number of small stars can be
stamped out of a few thin slices--more jelly, and a ring of dark fruit.
Take care that all the finest fruits are used to form the outer rows.
When the mould is almost full, with a layer or two of each kind of
fruit, fill it up with jelly and set on ice.
Creams are a favorite sweet in Europe, and eaten ice cold are delicious.
Too often they are confounded here with blanc-mange, which may mean
anything from corn-starch and milk to gelatine and cream, but seldom is
improved by the confectioner's art into a really handsome and dainty
dish.
_Ginger Cream._--Make a custard of a gill of milk, an ounce of powdered
sugar, and the beaten yolks of three eggs. Stir in a double boiler until
thick. Let it cool. Then add one gill of the syrup from a jar of
preserved ginger, and cut up two ounces of the ginger; add three
quarters of an ounce of gelatine melted in as little water as possible.
Last of all, add half a pint of cream whipped solid. Mix gently and till
well blended; pour into a mould, and set on ice.
_Neapolitan Cream._--Make a custard of half a pint of milk, the yolks of
four eggs, and a tablespoonful and a half of powdered sugar. Let it
cool. Cut up three ounces of preserved ginger very small; cook it in a
gill of ginger syrup for three minutes. Let it cool also. Decorate the
mould with one ounce of dried cherries and leaves, etc., of jelly. Cut
the cherries in half, glue them with a little melted jelly to the side
and bottom of the mould; cut some jelly in thin slices, or melt it and
let it run into thin sheets, which allow to chill, and stamp from them
leaves, or whatever shapes you please. Glue these also to the side of
the mould in the most effective way your taste can devise. Stir one
ounce of gelatine melted in very little water, and half a pint of cream
whipped solid, to the custard with which you have already mixed the
ginger and syrup. Pour all into the decorated mould, put on ice, and
when it is to be turned out wrap a cloth dipped in hot water round the
mould; give it a smart slap on both sides, and it will turn out without
difficulty.
XXV.
COLD SWEETS.--CREAMS.
_Coffee Cream._--Make half a pint of custard with two eggs and half a
pint of milk; dissolve an ounce of gelatine and three ounces of sugar in
half a gill of strong coffee; add the custard, and strain; whip half a
pint of cream quite firm; stir lightly into the custard; when it is
cool, pour into a mould, and set on ice. The excellence of this cream
depends on the coffee, which must be filtered, not boiled, freshly made,
and very strong--three tablespoonfuls of coffee to the half-pint.
_Curacoa Cream._--Make a custard with the yolks of four eggs and half a
pint of milk; dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in as little liquid as
possible; mix it with two ounces of powdered sugar; add to the custard;
then stir in a generous glass of curacoa, and let the mixture cool,
after which add half a pint of cream whipped solid. Stir very lightly
together until well blended; then mould and set on ice.
_Strawberry Cream._--Hull a pint of quite ripe strawberries; put them on
a fine sieve, and sprinkle an ounce of sugar over them; put half an
ounce of gelatine into a stewpan with two tablespoonfuls of cold water,
two ounces and a half of powdered sugar, and the juice of a lemon, and
let it dissolve by gentle heat. Pass the strawberries through the sieve;
strain the gelatine, etc., to the strawberry juice, and put to get cold;
then add half a pint of cream whipped solid. Stir very lightly to the
strawberry juice, etc., when the latter is beginning to set.
_Vanilla Cream._--Make a custard with three yolks and one white of egg,
and half a pint of milk and three ounces of sugar; melt an ounce of
gelatine in two tablespoonfuls of water, strain it to the custard, and
mix well; whip half a pint of cream to a stiff froth, and stir it
gently to the custard and gelatine; flavor with vanilla. After the
vanilla is added, make a couple of spoonfuls of the custard pink with
cochineal or strawberry juice; let this cool in a thin sheet; stamp from
it small clover leaves or lozenges, not over an inch long and three
quarters broad; decorate the bottom of a mould with them, using a little
gelatine and water to fasten them; set the mould in chopped ice, and
about half-way up put four or five of the pink pieces; take great care
there is no inequality as to height or distance (slovenly decoration is
worse than none). When the lozenges are quite secure in their places,
pour in the cream. It is needless to repeat this form of decoration of
creams, they can be varied so infinitely by individual taste, but as a
rule they should be decorated only with small forms cut out of
bright-colored jelly, or of cream colored pink, orange, pistache green,
or brown. Candied fruits are not effective, although sometimes used,
unless the cream itself has fruit in it.
_Pistache Cream._--Half an ounce of gelatine, two ounces of powdered
sugar; melt the gelatine in a gill of water, then add the sugar, a glass
of sherry, and a glass of kirsch. Whip half a pint of thick cream solid,
and when the gelatine is cold and beginning to thicken stir the cream to
it very lightly, and at the same time two ounces of pistachio-nuts,
blanched and chopped fine, with enough vegetable green coloring to make
the cream a shade or two lighter in color than the nuts. This cream must
be stirred lightly on ice after the nuts are added, till thick enough
for them not to sink.
_Almond Cream._--Half an ounce of gelatine melted in a gill of water
with two ounces of sugar and a glass of sherry; grate four ounces of
almond paste into it, and stir in a double boiler or bowl set in boiling
water until dissolved, or at least until there are no lumps. Let this
get cool. Whip a pint and a gill of cream solid, and stir to the
mixture. Decorate a mould with any red jelly, pour the mixture in, and
set on ice. In consequence of the variation in the strength of gelatine,
in making any of these creams try a little on ice in a saucer before
pouring into a mould, then add more cream or gelatine as required.
_Cold Puddings and Frozen Puddings._--Some of these "puddings" might
just as appropriately be called creams; however, fashion ordains that
they shall be puddings. One of the newest is the
_Jubilee Pudding._--Make a pint of claret jelly; pour it into a small
border mould; whip half a pint of cream in which is a quarter of an
ounce of dissolved gelatine. When it is whipped solid, stir in one ounce
of preserved or candied cherries, one ounce of candied angelica, one
ounce of preserved ginger, and one ounce of preserved apricot--the
ginger and angelica cut small. Set on ice; then turn out. Pile the
whipped cream and fruit in the centre, and decorate according to fancy.
_Cold Souffle Pudding a la Princesse._--Melt half an ounce of gelatine
in a gill of cream; set in boiling water till dissolved; beat the yolks
of three eggs well, and add to the milk; when well mixed, put the
custard into a double boiler till it thickens--it must not boil. Pour it
into a bowl, and add a gill of apricot preserve, made into a puree by
rubbing through a sieve with half a gill of orange juice, two ounces of
sugar, a little lemon juice, and cochineal to color it a very delicate
pink. Beat the whites of four eggs till they will not slip; stir them in
very lightly with an upward motion of the spoon, the object being to
keep the white of egg from falling, yet the whole must be thoroughly
mixed. Stir till nearly cold before putting the souffle in a mould to
set.
_Imperial Rice Pudding._--Pour a quarter of a pint of clear white jelly
into a quart mould, turning the mould about so that the jelly covers
every part; this jelly serves to keep the ornaments in place. Cover the
inside of the mould with an ounce of candied cherries split and half an
ounce of angelica cut into thin rings. Stew a quarter of a pound of rice
in a pint of milk till tender; when cool, add half a pint of whipped
cream, a quarter of an ounce of gelatine melted in a little water, a
quarter of a pound of powdered sugar, and a teaspoonful of vanilla. When
it is all well mixed, turn the preparation into the mould, and set on
ice. When firm, turn out of the mould, and serve with a puree of
apricots.
_Diplomatic Pudding._--Make a quart of custard in the following way: Put
the yolks of four eggs and the white of one into a bowl, and mix well
with a wooden spoon; stir in half a pint of milk, and strain all into a
double boiler or a pitcher; add two ounces of sugar, and stand the
pitcher (unless you have the double boiler) in a saucepan of boiling
water, and stir the custard over the fire until it thickens, but it must
not boil; remove from the fire; stir in a tablespoonful of brandy and a
little vanilla. Line a plain mould with half a pint of wine jelly; this
is done by pouring a little in at a time when it is half fluid, rolling
the mould about on ice, and as soon as one coat adheres, pour in more,
until the mould is evenly coated; decorate it with half an ounce of
candied cherries and half an ounce of angelica--the cherries split and
the angelica cut. Melt an ounce of gelatine and two ounces of sugar in a
gill of water; stir it into the custard with a gill of thick cream; stir
till cool; then add an ounce more cherries, half an ounce of angelica,
and half an ounce of citron, all chopped small. Pour this gently into
the mould you have decorated, set on ice, turn out and serve.
_Cold Cabinet Pudding._--Ornament the bottom of a pint mould with
candied cherries and angelica; split half a dozen lady-fingers; line the
sides of the mould very evenly with them, arranging them alternately
back and front against the mould; put in two ounces of ratafias (these
are tiny macaroons about the size of a five-cent piece, of high flavor,
and to be obtained at the pastry-cooks' who make foreign specialties;
some grocers also import them); put four yolks of eggs into a bowl; stir
them; then add half a pint of milk; pour this custard into a double
boiler, and stir until it thickens, taking care that it does not curdle.
Melt half an ounce of gelatine in a very little water; strain it to the
custard. When the latter cools, add half a gill of thick, fresh cream,
two ounces of sugar, and a teaspoonful of vanilla; mix all well, and
pour carefully into the mould without disturbing the lining of cake. Put
the mould on ice, and, when set, turn out and serve.
XXVI.
CREAMS AND FROZEN PUDDINGS.
Nut creams, with the exception of almond, are not very well known, but
are so delicious that they ought to be. One reason perhaps is that it is
not generally known that kernels of nuts, such as hazel-nuts, walnuts,
hickory-nuts, etc., can be bought by the pound at confectioners' supply
stores. This, of course, saves the tedious work of cracking and
shelling. To use with creams or for frozen puddings the nuts must be
pounded very well, with very little white of egg--just enough to moisten
and render the process easy.
_Cocoanut Cream._--Grate a fresh, sweet cocoanut (having first peeled,
washed, and wiped it _dry_); mix with it an ounce of sugar; melt in as
little water as possible three quarters of an ounce of gelatine; whip
the whites of three eggs, mix them with half a pint of milk, and stir
over the fire until the custard thickens; sweeten with four
tablespoonfuls of sugar. Stir the gelatine and a full half-pint of
grated cocoanut with the cocoanut milk into the custard. Whip half a
pint of thick cream solid, and stir it very carefully into the custard;
when the latter is quite cold, but before it sets, flavor with a little
vanilla or lemon extract. Mould and set on ice.
_Hazel-nut Cream._--Put a pint of hazel-nut kernels into a cool oven
until they are thoroughly dry and rather hot (they must not become too
hot, or they will change flavor); then rub them between two coarse
cloths to get rid of as much as possible of the skin (it cannot be
entirely removed); blow away the loose hulls, and pound the nuts to a
paste with a little white of egg. Make a custard with the yolks of three
eggs and half a pint of milk; dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in a
gill of water, mix with six ounces of powdered sugar, and add to the
custard when nearly cool. Stir in the hazel-nut paste, taking care that
it is well mixed with the custard, and add a half-pint of cream whipped
solid; flavor with vanilla, or you may omit flavoring, the hazel-nut
being sufficient for many people. Mould and set on ice.
This cream and the two that follow are flecked with brown, for which
reason it may be colored brown with caramel, although I prefer it
uncolored, the specks being no more objectionable than the vanilla seeds
one rejoices to see in ice-cream.
_Walnut or Hickory-nut Cream._--Pound one pint of either of these nuts,
after rubbing them well in a cloth, make the same custard as for
hazel-nut cream, stir in the walnut or hickory-nut paste till smooth,
add the whipped cream, color a pale pink with cochineal, and flavor
faintly with rum or vanilla. Mould, set on ice, and serve with whipped
cream flavored slightly with rum.
_Bohemian Jelly Creams._--These may be made of any flavor, according to
the jelly you use. It may be jelly of fruit or liqueur. If fresh fruit
is used for jelly, the juice must be expressed, and well-sweetened
gelatine added in the proportion of an ounce to the pint. If jam or
marmalade is used, a pint of water is added and the same amount of
gelatine, with the juice of half a lemon to the pint. Water, jam, and
dissolved gelatine must be mixed quickly and passed through a sieve;
either must be stirred in a bowl set in ice till quite cold and
beginning to thicken; then stir in gently and quickly three-quarters of
a pint of cream whipped solid; pour the mixture into the mould, which
must be set in ice. Cover well, and keep on ice till needed.
_Frangipanni Iced Pudding._--Grate six ounces of almond paste to crumbs;
then on a smaller grater grate four or six bitter almonds blanched and
dried; pound a dozen candied orange-flower petals with three-quarters of
a pound of powdered sugar; put all into a stewpan with the yolks of
eight eggs, and beat them very well together. In another stewpan have a
pint and a half of boiling milk, which must be poured over the other
ingredients by degrees, keeping them well stirred. Place it over the
fire, stirring until it thickens and adheres to the back of the spoon;
rub this all through a coarse sieve, add a glass of sherry, and when
cold pour the mixture into the freezer; when half frozen add a pint and
a half of whipped cream, and when quite frozen fill a pudding mould,
bury it in ice and salt, and serve as you would Nesselrode pudding.