THE PHYSICAL AND POLITICAL GEOGRAPHY OF THE DISTRICTS LYING
BETWEEN GAYA BAY AND THE TAMPASUK RIVER;[21] WITH A GEOGRAPHICAL
SKETCH OF MALUDU BAY AND THE NORTH-EAST COAST OF BORNEO.
The Coast Line--The Rivers--The Bays--Gaya Bay--Abai--Character
of Interior Country--Plains--Hills--Kina Balu--First
Ascent by Mr. Low--Description of Summit--The
Peaks--The Northern Ranges--Steep Granite Slopes--The
Spurs--The Main Spur--Interior Country--Distant
Mountains--Plain--Villages--The Lake--Vegetation on
Kina Balu--The Rivers--The Ananam--The Kabatuan--The
Mengkabong--The Tawaran--The Abai--The Tampasuk--Its
Interior--Political Geography--Inhabitants--The Lanuns--The
Bajus--Mahomedans--Appearance--Their Women--Their Houses--Love
of Cockfighting--Fine Breed of Fowls--Other Inhabitants--The
Ida’an--Their Houses--Their Women--Tatooing--Comfortable
House--Method of Government--No Wars--Aborigines
Honest--Exceptions--Agriculture--Ploughing--Remnant
of Chinese Civilization--Tobacco--Cotton--Good
Soil--Amount of Population--Numerous and Extensive
Villages--The Tampasuk--The Tawaran--Mengkabong--Other
Districts--Enumeration--Manufactures--Lanun
Cloths--Trade--Difficult
Travelling--Languages--Geology--Sandstone--Greenstone--Climate
of Kina Balu temperate--Map--Addition--Maludu Bay--
Western Point--Western Shore--Mountains--Head of
Bay--Population--Accounts compared--Bengkoka--Minerals--Eastern
Point--Banguey--Difficult Navigation--Small Rivers
and Bays--Paitan--Sugut--Low Coast--Labuk Bay--High
Land--Benggaya--Labuk--Sandakan--Story of the Atas Man--Kina
Batangan--Cape Unsang--Tungku--Population--The Ida’an--The
Mahomedans.
The coast line, as viewed from the sea, presents the following
appearance: Gaya Island, and the shores of Gaya, and Sapangar Bays
are hilly, and this continues to within a mile of the mouth of the
Mengkabong; the land then becomes flat, with the exception of the
Tambalan hill, as far as the mouth of the Sulaman creek or river.
High land then commences, which continues for a short distance beyond
the Abai, when it again becomes low, and presents the same appearance
for many miles beyond the Tampasuk river, the coast being fringed by
Casuarinas.
The mouths of the rivers Ananam, Kabatuan, Mengkabong, Tawaran,
Sulaman, Abai, and Tampasuk are all shallow, and unfit for European
vessels; the deepest having but nine feet at low water, and with the
exception of the Ananam, Kabatuan, and Abai, are much exposed during
both monsoons, and are rendered dangerous by the numerous sandbanks
that lie off their mouths. The Ananam in Gaya Bay, and the Kabatuan
in Sapangar Bay, are only suited for native craft. The Abai has more
water, and, its mouth being sheltered, small vessels, at certain times
of tide, might enter; within, the river deepens to four fathoms, and
the surrounding hills render it a perfectly land-locked harbour.
There are several bays along this coast which insure complete shelter
for shipping. The finest of these harbours is that composed of the
two bays Gaya and Sapangar, which is large enough to afford protection
during both monsoons for every vessel that trades to the East; it
contains within itself minor harbours, as one on the north-east of
Gaya Island, which has thirteen fathoms, and is perfectly safe;
while abundance of fresh water may be obtained on its western shore.
Lokporin, in Sapangar Bay, is also a secure anchorage. Gantisan, the
Malay town on the north-eastern shore, though good for shipping, is not
so secure for very small craft, as squalls from the south-west raise
rather a heavy sea there. Several coral reefs jut out from the northern
shore, with deep water on either side of them. This harbour is the most
important in Borneo, from its commanding position in the China seas,
and from its great security.
Good shelter may also be found in Ambong and Usukan Bays, but I have
not entered them myself. Ambong is described as running deep into
the land, and surrounded by hills with smooth surfaces and of gentle
ascent; the alternations of wood and cleared land affording a most
beautiful landscape. The harbour of Ambong abounds in beautiful
sheltered little bays, but barred by coral patches, which rise
exactly from the spots where they disturb the utility of these snug
retreats.[22] The next, Abai, affords excellent shelter during both
monsoons, though open to the north-west; it is, however, of inferior
importance, though fresh water may be obtained in small quantities
on the grassy plain at the entrance of the river: water, however, is
rarely absent where the land is hilly. Wherever the country is low, and
occasionally elsewhere, there are sandy beaches. The west end of Gaya
Island, Gaya Head, and the points between Sulaman and Abai, are rocky;
beyond these appear broad sandy beaches.
Passing the coast line, the country presents varied forms; the hills
that surround Gaya harbour are low, and cleared at the top, bearing
at present a rank crop of grass; others have a reddish tint, from the
ferruginous nature of the soil; the rest are covered with jungle.
On entering the Kabatuan, the banks are lined with a narrow belt
of mangrove, but the hills rise immediately at the back, and this
character appears to extend far into the interior both of the Kabatuan
and Mengkabong. From the latter river to the Sulaman stretches a plain,
perhaps seven miles in width, varied by a few very low hills. The
country changes here, and broken ranges extend to the Abai: hill and
plain are then intermixed; but, as soon as we approach the Tampasuk,
the country opens, and, for Borneo, an extensive plain spreads
out, reaching to the foot of the Maludu mountains. It is, however,
occasionally diversified by low, undulating sandstone hills.
This flat, level ground is admirably adapted for rice cultivation, as
it is grass land, without any jungle. On leaving these plains, ranges
of hills commence, rising generally with great abruptness, presenting
steep sides and narrow ridges, and running, for the most part, in an
eastern and western direction. There are, however, exceptions to the
above description: a few of the hills have easy slopes, and many of
the ranges are connected by cross ridges running north and south,
particularly at the heads of valleys where the waters of the different
tributaries flow in opposite directions to join their main rivers.
The highest of the hills we measured was under 3,000 feet. The ranges
towards the interior are higher, and at the back of these are very
lofty mountains, including Kina Balu,[23] 13,698 feet (Belcher); Saduk
Saduk, about 6,000 feet; and others, whose names we could not obtain,
estimated at above 7,000 feet. All the hills in these districts that we
examined consisted of sandstone until we reached Kina Balu.
With regard to the height of that mountain, various opinions have been
entertained; but until some one is fortunate enough to reach its summit
with a good barometer, I think we may rest contented with Sir Edward
Belcher’s measurement by trigonometry. He makes it 13,698 feet. Mr.
Low, on his first ascent, had a very inferior barometer; while during
the last two expeditions we were provided with magnificent barometers
by Adie; but unfortunate accidents rendered them useless. However,
sufficient observations were taken to show that the first barometer
was incorrect, and, though both inclined, during our first joint
expedition, to place the height of the mountain at about 11,000 feet,
the last makes us feel assured that we underrated the height. I am,
therefore, inclined, from all the observations made, to think that Sir
Edward Belcher’s measurement is correct.
The summit of Kina Balu consists of syenite granite, which is in many
places so jointed as to give it the appearance of being stratified.
About ten peaks spring from a line running from east to west, while
about half a mile to the southward rises another detached peak.
Between the latter and the western portion of the former is an open
space, like a broad terrace, with sloping sides, down which huge slabs
are continually gliding. The southern peak presents a very different
aspect, according to the point from which we view it: from the terrace,
it looks sharp, not above a yard in breadth; while from the east
and west it seems quite rounded. This renders it comparatively easy
of ascent. On three sides it is perpendicular, while, on the south,
it presents no material difficulty. Without careful barometrical
observations it will be impossible to fix on the highest peak. From
several views, the southern, the summit of which I gained during the
first trip, appeared as high as the others, while from the terrace
both east and west appeared rather higher. The west has a rounded
appearance; but we failed to discover a way of ascending to its
summit. I reached within perhaps forty feet, when it presented only
perpendicular sides. It is gradually giving way before atmospheric
influences, its northern base being covered with huge angular stones
that have fallen; the summit is still overhanging, and much of it
apparently ready to topple over. Between the western and eastern peaks,
on the edge of the cliffs which overlook deep chasms below, is a sort
of wall, principally of huge granite rocks, some so perched on the
others that at first sight it appears the work of man--geologically
explained, I suppose, by the wearing away of the softer portions of the
rock around. Some of the peaks present the appearance of a thumb, while
others are massive, as those that rise on either side of the spot where
Mr. Low, in 1851, left a bottle.
The summit is above two miles in length; and I observed that, in
descending to its N.W. and E. spurs, the rocks assume a perfectly
serrated appearance. Kina Balu extends a long distance towards the N.E.
or E.N.E., its height varying perhaps from 10,000 to 11,000 feet: but
partially divided from the parent mountain by a deep chasm. From the
top, we did not see this portion of the mountain; in fact, the mist
generally obscured the view, leaving but patches visible. The summit of
the mountain, as I have before observed, consists of syenite granite;
but every here and there it is crossed by belts of a white rock. For
about 3,000 feet below the peaks there is but little vegetation, and
the face of granite sweeps steeply up at an angle of 37½ degrees. In
the gullies, and in other sheltered spots, are thickets of flowering
shrubs, principally of rhododendrons--a few even extending to the base
of the peaks, particularly in the “bottle gully.”
From what we observed, the summit of the mountain can only be reached
by the way we followed--I mean that portion above 9,000 feet. To that
spot there are said to be two paths. Kina Balu throws out, on every
side, great shoulders, or spurs, which have also their sub-spurs. The
principal are the N.W., very steep; the W.N.W., which subdivides. On
the western face of the mountain there are but minor spurs, which
leave 5,000 feet of precipice above them. From the southward, two huge
spurs extend: on one is the village of Kiau. It springs from the left
of the southern face, and running S.W., turns to west and by north,
and subdivides. The next spur that springs from the eastern portion
of the southern face is, in every respect, the most important. It may
be called, for the sake of distinction, the main spur. Those to the
left we could not observe fully, as we then only saw them from above,
but from the north-east coast they appeared to slope very gradually.
The main spur runs at first to the S.W. for about five miles; it then
follows almost a S.S.W. direction for about twenty miles, throwing off,
on either side, many sub-spurs. A glance at the map will best explain
my meaning. This is the range that is observed from the sea, and gave
the notion of a back-bone to Borneo; but beyond these twenty-five miles
it does not appear to extend. In fact, mountain ranges, running to the
east and west, are distinctly visible--the first, at not a greater
distance than thirty-five or thirty-six miles, appears to cross close
to the end of the main spur. If we were disappointed by not obtaining
complete views from the summit, we were partially repaid by the clear
view we had of the country lying to the S. and S.E. of Kina Balu. We
were at an elevation of between 7,000 and 8,000 feet on the main spur,
and observed numerous mountain ranges whose bearings I will give.
High peaked mountains S. ½ E. 8,000 ft. 30 miles distance.
„ „ S.E. by E. 7,000 ft. 18 „
„ „ S.E. by E. ¾ E. 7,000 ft. 18 „
A range: highest peak S. 8,000 ft. 25 „
„ „ S.S.W. -- 70 „
A range: eastern end of }
a long table range running}
E. by N. and W. } S.S.E. -- 60 „
by S. }
A peak S.E. ¾ E. -- very distant.
A long range (peak) S.E. -- „
The latter is stated to be in the Kina Batañgan country. The distances
and heights are estimated.
Between us and the mountains, bearing S.E. by E. eighteen miles, there
was a grassy plain, perhaps three miles by two, on which were many
villages, and through this there flowed a fair-sized river. We could
trace its course as far as the third spur that springs from the main
one; then a line of hills appeared to obstruct it; but beyond we could
again trace the course of a stream, which is probably its source. This
river, it was stated by the people of the country, flows into the lake
of Kina Balu. It runs from the S.W. to the N.E. With the exception of
the plain above-mentioned and a marsh, whose commencement we could
observe north-east of the plain, all the country appeared hilly, and
most of the land was cleared, and either under cultivation, or showed
the remains of former plantations. We could observe in the second
valley two villages--the first called Tuhan, the next Inserban, and at
both cotton is said to be cultivated. Many villages and detached houses
were also observed, whose names our guides had forgotten. The road to
the lake is by the two above-mentioned villages, while the names of
those beyond are Penusuk, Tambian, Paka, and Koporiñgan--these are
stated to be on the route, or close to the lake. A few words concerning
this mythic sheet of water, as it has generally been considered: that
it exists to the east of the mountain appears from inquiry to be almost
certain. Its size it is unnecessary to estimate, though our informants
stated that, standing on one bank, it was not possible to see the
opposite one. It cannot, however, be of the great size marked in the
old maps, or in the situation assigned to it, as the whole country,
from E.S.E. to the western coast, was distinctly visible, and the
Ida’an expressly stated that it was farther to the north and east of
the plain I have before noticed. Mr. Low made many inquiries during our
first trip, and we jointly questioned the Ida’an, on many occasions
during our long stay at the Kiau village, and they spoke of it as a
certainty, many affirming that they themselves had been on trading
expeditions to it. I may add that Mr. De Crespigny, who lived some time
at Maludu Bay, heard that the lake was to the south of Kina Balu, where
it certainly is not. Peterman’s map is entirely incorrect as to the
position of the lake.
I must now make a few remarks on the vegetation which covered the
mountain. Cultivation extends, in a few places, to the height of 3,500
feet, but beyond that there is a fine jungle, on the main spur, to the
height of 6,000 feet; it then begins to degenerate, and in the exposed
portion of the ridge the trees are bent across the path, inferior in
size and covered with moss. But above this height, in sheltered spots,
the trees again increase in size; beyond 7,000 feet, however, there
are few fine trees, the vegetation changing its character, most of it
consisting of flowering shrubs, varying in height from ten to twenty
feet. The trees, however, on the sides of the spurs continued of a
comparatively large size until we had passed 9,000 feet; at 10,000
feet the shrubbery became very straggling, and above that it was only
scattered among the granite rocks. On the W.N.W. spur, called the
Marei Parei, the vegetation even at 4,500 feet was exceedingly stunted
in many places; while above, in equally exposed situations, the
jungle was of fair size: probably, the nature of the soil may account
for it, that of the Marei Parei district being formed of decomposed
serpentine, containing very much peroxide of iron. Kina Balu appears to
be the seat of the pitcher-plant, Mr. Low having made a collection of
extraordinary-shaped ones--perhaps the most beautiful in the world.
At the risk of repetition, I will make a few observations on each
of the rivers which drain these districts. I have already remarked
that the shallowness of their mouths renders them unfit for European
commerce; in fact, the fresh-water streams soon become mere mountain
torrents. The Ananam I have not ascended; the Kabatuan is apparently
but a collection of salt-water creeks, with a few fresh-water rivulets.
The former town of Meñggatal was situated about three miles up it, and
only at flood tide would it float a frigate’s barge. Near the town the
banks were grassy, and many cocoa-nuts were grown in the neighbourhood.
The Mengkabong, also, can scarcely be called a river; it is rather a
large salt-water lake with numerous islands, some containing hills
of several hundred feet in height; it is very shallow, many portions
of it being dry at low tides, while others have but a few inches of
water. It appears to be filling up fast, and, perhaps, affords a clue
to the cause of the formation of the plains that extend beyond, which
all appear to be composed of alluvial deposits. Many fresh-water
rivulets drain the neighbouring hills, and pour their waters into this
creek, but it is always salt; it extends, perhaps, five or six miles
in a straight line from the shore. The Sulaman I have not entered,
but I have seen it from the hills on many occasions; it presents
the appearance of a lake, and is reported as a salt-water creek. We
could observe, by the rivulets that drained into the Tawaran, that
the Sulaman has no interior, but it has a depth of twelve feet at its
entrance. The Tawaran, on the contrary, is a fresh-water river even
to its mouth, the flood-tides making but a slight impression on it.
Large native prahus can safely ascend it for six miles; after that it
depends on the state of the weather, rising and falling very rapidly as
it is influenced by the rains. The banks of the river as far as Bawang
village are flat; there the hills commence; and three miles beyond the
Tawaran divides into two branches; one coming from the south, the other
from the E.S.E. They immediately degenerate into mountain torrents, and
are not to be used by boats, but at some risk produce is occasionally
brought down on rafts. Every range of hills affords the parent stream
a rivulet, but the Tawaran does not penetrate far into the country;
its sources are in the main spur of Kina Balu; the east branch rising
between the second and third sub-spur, on the west side of the main
spur; the southern branch appears very small. On both occasions I
passed the Tawaran, it was of a dirty yellow colour, being filled with
the detritus of the neighbouring hills. Land slips are very common,
which afford a considerable amount of matter for the torrents to carry
seawards. The Tawaran is subject to very sudden inundations, the waters
occasionally reaching the houses at the village of Buñgol, though fifty
feet above the stream. There is no foundation for Dalrymple’s story,
which has been often repeated, of the Tawaran rising in the lake; it
evidently springs from the main spur of Kina Balu.
The Abai is a salt-water creek, but preserving more the appearance of
a river; much of both banks are mangrove until we approach the houses.
Its depth varies: on the bar it is but one fathom, while inside it
deepens to four, and it has a channel to the villages of about two
fathoms. It is a favourite anchorage for native prahus, being admirably
adapted for them. Two small rivulets join the Abai; the Gading, and the
Paka Paka, both inhabited by the Ida’an.
The Tampasuk is essentially a fresh-water river, very similar to
the Tawaran, of no importance to European ships, except that in wet
seasons its waters run unmixed half a mile out to sea. It differs from
the Tawaran, in having occasionally immense granite boulders in the
stream; while the latter drains only a sandstone country; but, like
the Tawaran, it divides into two branches; the eastern one flows from
the northern portion of Kina Balu. We could observe its direction for
above ten miles, as it ran through the low land, and its course was
E.S.E. from the junction. The Pengantaran, that drains a portion of the
north-west of Kina Balu, bringing down immense quantities of blocks of
serpentine, is the only other stream worth noticing. The natives seldom
make use of the Tampasuk beyond the spot where the river divides,
though above it rafts are occasionally used; but it evidently is not a
general practice, as the river is filled with fish traps, which require
the stream to be dammed across with loose stone walls.
The hills do not press closely to the river’s banks; if they do so on
one side, the other is certain to have a strip of low land, along which
the path is carried; in fact, from the sea to Koung village there is
but one steep hill to cross. Sometimes there are small plains, that
skirt the banks; at others, gently sloping fields. The steep hills
commence a few miles below Koung, on the left bank, and continue, with
few exceptions, to the base of Kina Balu. The village of Labang Labang,
on a spur of Saduk Saduk, has an easy slope from Koung, while towards
the great mountain it is very steep. Near Labang Labang the river
divides and assumes different names: the principal branch is called the
Kalupis; the other, the Dahombang, or Hobang, and this receives the
Kini Taki and the Pinokok. Between the Hobang and Pinokok streams is a
sort of table-land, about a couple of miles across, by perhaps four in
length; it is not absolutely flat, but the ground swells very gently.
The Kalupis has its source at the very summit of the hill, and we could
trace its course from the time it was but an inch deep, till collecting
all the drainage of the top, it dashed past our resting-place (at 9,000
feet) a fair-sized mountain torrent. About 1,000 feet below, at the
head of the Kalupis valley, it throws itself over the rocks, forming a
fine cascade of perhaps 1,500 feet in height.
I may notice that off the coast between Gaya Bay and the western
point of Maludu Bay there is often a very heavy ground swell, and the
rollers occasionally are so dangerous as to prevent vessels attempting
to communicate with the shallow rivers. I was once very anxious to
visit the Pandasan, but when we arrived off its mouth, the rollers
looked so dangerous, that the captain of the steamer decided it would
be unsafe for the ship’s boats to venture in, and I scarcely regretted
his determination. The ground swell was so great, that it was almost
impossible to stand on deck.
Having noticed the principal features connected with the physical
geography, I will add a few notes on what Mr. Hamilton correctly calls
political geography.
The population of these districts consists principally of three
classes--the Lanun, the Baju, and the Ida’an or Dusun.
The Lanuns were formerly numerous, having populous settlements on the
Tawaran and the Tampasuk, as well as on the Pandasan and Layer Layer
farther west. They originally came from the large island of Magindanau,
which is considered as the most southern island of the Philippine
group. They have formed settlements on various points as convenient
piratical stations, particularly on the east coast at Tungku and other
places.
As I have elsewhere observed, not only did they pirate by sea, but
they created an unappeasable feud with the Ida’an, by stealing their
children. No race in the Archipelago equals the Lanun in courage; the
Ida’an therefore considering it useless to make regular attacks, hung
about the villages, and by destroying small parties, forced the Lanuns
to leave Tawaran, who then joined their countrymen at Tampasuk. Sir
Thomas Cochrane attacked both Pandasan and Tampasuk, which induced the
most piratical portion to retire to the east coast. At present but
few remain in Tampasuk; they are not considered to have more than
150 fighting men; they are essentially strangers, and unpopular. They
seldom form regular governments, but attach themselves to certain
chiefs, who are partial to high-sounding titles, particularly those
of sultan and rajah. These chiefs are independent of each other,
and unite only for defence, or for an extensive expedition. They,
however, are gradually leaving these districts. Although Mahomedans,
their women are not shut up; on the contrary, they freely mix with
the men, and even join in public deliberations, and are said to be
tolerably good-looking. The men I have seen are better featured than
the Malays or Bajus. Our slight knowledge of the Lanuns partly arises
from the jealousy of the Bornean Government, which used to employ all
its influence to prevent their frequenting Labuan in order to trade.
This partly arose from a desire to prevent the development of our
colony, and partly from an absurd idea that they could thus monopolize
their trade; but the Lanuns, though often deterred from visiting our
settlement, seldom cared to meet the Bornean nobles.
The Bajus are scattered along the coast, their principal settlements
being at Mengkabong and Tampasuk. At Mengkabong they appear numerous,
and perhaps could muster 1,000 fighting men; at Tampasuk, they estimate
their own number at 600; at Pandasan, 400; at Abai, Sulaman, and
Ambong, there are a few. Their origin is involved in obscurity: they
are evidently strangers. They self-style themselves Orang Sama, or Sama
men. They principally occupy themselves with fishing, manufacturing
salt, and with petty trade. Some breed cows, horses, and goats, while
a few plant rice, and have small gardens.
They profess the Mahomedan religion, and keep the fast with some
strictness; though, like the Malays, are probably but little acquainted
with its tenets. The Bajus are not a handsome race--they have generally
pinched-up, small faces, low foreheads, but bright eyes. The men are
short and slight, but very active; the women have a similar appearance
to the men, and are slighter than the Malay. They wear their hair tied
in a knot on the fore part of the crown of the head, which is very
unbecoming. The women appeared to have greater liberty than among the
Malays, and came and sat near us and conversed. We saw many men that
differed totally from the above description; but on inquiry, we found
they were of mixed breed: one, Baju, Lanun, Malay, and Chinese; the
next, Baju, Sulu, Lanun, and Malay. In fact, many intermarry, which
renders it difficult to give a particular type for one race. The Bajus
of Tampasuk nominally acknowledge a Datu as their chief, who receives
his authority from Brunei; but they never pay taxes to the supreme
Government, and seldom send even a present. They are individually very
independent, and render no obedience to their chief, unless it suits
their own convenience. They are, therefore, disunited, and unable
to make head against the few Lanuns, with whom they have continual
quarrels. Every man goes armed, and seldom walks. If he cannot procure
a pony, he rides a cow or a buffalo, the latter generally carrying
double. Their arms consist of a spear, shield, and sword. Their houses
are similar to those of the Malays, being built on posts, sometimes
in the water, sometimes on the dry land. In Mengkabong, they are all
on the water, and are very poor specimens of leaf-huts. The Tampasuk
not affording water accommodation, the houses are built on shore.
The only good one was the Datu’s, which consisted of a planked house
of two stories; the lower, occupied by the married portion of the
family, consisted of one large room, with broad enclosed verandahs,
occupied by the chief, his wife, and his followers, while the upper
was reserved for the young unmarried girls and children. Of furniture
there is little--mats, boxes, cooking utensils, and bed places being
the principal. In these countries there are no public buildings, no
offices, jails, or hospitals, or even a fort or stockade; and the
houses being built of but temporary materials, there are no ancient
buildings of any description. The Bajus are very fond of cock-fighting,
and in order to indulge in this sport with greater satisfaction,
carefully rear a very fine breed of fowls, which are famous along the
coast. I have seen some of the cocks as large as the Cochin Chinese.
It is probable they are descended from those brought by the early
immigrants from China, as they no way resemble the ordinary Bornean
breed found in every Malay and Dayak village. They fatten readily, and
the hens bring up fine broods.
Mixed with the Bajus are a few Borneans; in Gantisan they form the
bulk of the village; in Mengkabong they are not numerous; while in the
northern districts there are few, if any. Of strangers, an occasional
Indian, African, or Chinese may be seen, but they are petty traders,
who return to Labuan after a short residence.
The principal inhabitants of these districts consist of the Ida’an or
Dusun, the aboriginal population.[24] They are essentially the same in
appearance as the Dayak, the Kayan, the Murut, and the Bisaya; their
houses, dress, and manners are very similar, modified, of course, by
circumstances. In the Kabatuan, Mengkabong, Sulaman, and Abai are some
tribes of Ida’an, but I have not visited their villages; I shall,
therefore, confine myself to those I observed on the Tawaran and
Tampasuk.
On the banks of the Tawaran, where it flows through the plain, are
many villages of Ida’an, which are often completely hidden by groves
of fruit-trees. These men have a civilized appearance, wearing jackets
and trousers. As you advance into the interior, these gradually
lessen, clothes being seen only on a few, as at Kiau, near Kina Balu;
beyond, they are said to use the bark of trees. Some of the tribes
in the Tawaran have followed the Malay fashion of living in small
houses suitable for a single family; while others occupy the usual
long house, with the broad verandah, and separate rooms only for the
families. The house in which we lodged, at Ginambur on the Tampasuk,
was the best I have ever seen among the aborigines. It was boarded
with finely-worked planks; the doors strong and excellently made,
each also having a small opening for the dogs to go in and out; the
flooring of bamboos, beaten out, was very neat and free from all dirt,
which I have never before noticed in a Dayak house, where the dogs
render everything filthy. The Ginambur Ida’an are good specimens of the
aborigines; they are free from disease, and are clear-skinned; they
have good-tempered countenances. None of the women are good-looking;
still they are not ugly. All the girls and young women wear a piece
of cloth to conceal their bosoms: it was upheld by strips of coloured
rattans: their petticoats were also longer than usual, and the young
girls had the front of the head shaved, like Chinese girls. I did not
notice that any of the men of that village were tatooed, but in our
walk we had met parties of men from the interior who were so: a tatooed
band, two inches broad, stretched in an arc from each shoulder, meeting
on their stomachs, then turning off to their hips, and some of them
had a tatooed band extending from the shoulder to the hand. Many of
their villages are extensive, as Koung, which is large, scattered on
a grassy plain, with a portion on the hill above. It is a very pretty
spot, the greensward stretching on either side of the river’s bank,
where their buffaloes and cattle graze. This tribe has the appearance
of being rich; they possess abundance of cattle, pigs, fowls, rice,
and vegetables, while the river affords them fish. Kiau is also an
extensive village, but the houses and the people are very dirty.
None of these Ida’an pay any tribute, though many chiefs on the coast
call them their people; but it is merely nominal, no one daring to
oppress them. Each village is a separate government, and almost each
house independent. They have no established chiefs, but follow the
councils of the old men to whom they are related. They have no regular
wars, which would induce them to unite more closely; their feuds are
but petty quarrels, and in but one house did I observe heads, and that
was at the village of Tamparuli, in the Tawaran plain. The very fact
of troops of girls working in the fields without male protection would
prove the security that exists, though every male always walks armed.
We had no opportunity of observing any of their ceremonies, and it is
very unsafe to trust to the information of interpreters.
The aborigines, in general, are so honest that little notice is taken
of this good quality; however, to our surprise, we found that these
Ida’an were not to be trusted. We were warned by the Bajus to take care
of our things, but we felt no distrust. However, at Kiau they proved
their thievish qualities, which, however, we frightened out of them, as
during our second residence we lost nothing there. At the village of
Nilu one made an attempt, which we checked.
The Ida’an are essentially agriculturists, and raise rice, sweet
potatoes, the kiladi (_Arum_--an esculent root), yams, Indian
corn, sugar-cane, tobacco, and cotton. The sugar-cane is only raised
for eating in its natural state, while the cotton is confined to
certain districts.
I first saw the natives ploughing in the Tampasuk; their plough is
very simple, and is constructed entirely of wood; it serves rather
to scratch the land than really to turn it over. The plough was
drawn by a buffalo, and its action was the same as if a pointed
stick had been dragged through the land to the depth of about four
inches. After ploughing, they use a rough harrow. In the Tawaran they
ploughed better, the earth being partially turned over to the depth
of about six inches. The Ida’an have divided the land into square
fields with narrow banks between them, and each division being as
much private property as English land, is considered very valuable,
and the banks are made to keep in the water. Their crops are said to
be very plentiful. Simple as this agriculture is, it is superior to
anything that exists south of Brunei, and it would be curious if we
could investigate the causes that have rendered this small portion of
Borneo, between the capital and Maludu Bay, so superior in agriculture
to the rest. I think it is obviously a remnant of Chinese civilization.
Pepper is not grown north of Gaya Bay, and is confined to the districts
between it and the capital.
The Ida’an use a species of sledge made of bamboos, and drawn by
buffaloes to take their heavy goods to market. The gardens on the
Tawaran are well kept and very neatly fenced in. On the hills the
plough is not used, the land being too steep; and there the agriculture
presents nothing remarkable, beyond the great care displayed in keeping
the crops free from weeds. The tobacco is well attended to, and these
districts supply the whole coast, none being imported from abroad. When
carefully cured, the flavour is considered as good, and the cultivation
might be easily extended. Of the cotton I can say little, as I did not
find that any of the tribes through whose country we passed cultivated
it, though they assured me they purchased their supplies from the
villages near the lake. The Tuhan and Inserban districts produce it,
they said, in considerable quantities; and I observed the women, in
several places, spinning yarn from the cotton. The Bajus obtain their
supplies from a tribe near Maludu Bay. Among the hills the implements
of agriculture consist of simply a parang chopper and a biliong, or
native axe, and the ground is, therefore, no more turned up than what
can be effected by a pointed stick; in fact, the steepness of the
valley sides is against a very improved rice cultivation; it is better
adapted for coffee. Mr. Low, who has much experience, pronounces the
soil, a rich orange-coloured loam, to be superior to that of Ceylon,
and, Kina Balu being but twenty-five miles from the sea-coast, there
are great advantages there. The plains are alluvial and very fertile.
With regard to the amount of population, all estimates would be mere
guess work; but it must be considerable, as little old forest remains,
except at the summits of lofty hills; the rest being either under
cultivation or lying fallow with brushwood upon it. The tribes on the
Tampasuk estimated their own numbers at five thousand fighting-men; the
Tawaran tribes were equally numerous; but reducing that estimate, and
putting together the various information received, I should be disposed
to place the entire population of these districts at above forty
thousand people. This is under rather than over the amount.
The five thousand fighting men who are stated by the Ida’an to live in
the Tampasuk are, they say, thus divided:--
The Piasau Ida’an 500
Ginambur 1,000
Bungol 1,000
Koung 500
Kiau 2,000
-----
Total 5,000
It is impossible to verify this statement, but we may test it
slightly by the observations made. The Piasau Ida’an, so named from
the extensive groves of cocoa-nuts that surround their villages
(_piasau_, a cocoa-nut), are spread over the Tampasuk plain, and I
think I am understating, when I say we noticed above fifteen villages,
and I should have myself placed their numbers much higher that five
hundred. The Ginambur was a large village, and there was another of the
same Ida’an about a mile off among the hills, which I passed through on
our return. Buñgol is also stated at a thousand men. Our Malays, who
visited it, said that it was very large; while the extensive village
of Tambatuan, Peñgantaran, and Batong, with numerous others among the
hills, have to be included in the Ginambur and Buñgol tribes. Koung
is placed at five hundred, which is not a high estimate, there being
about three hundred families in the village. Kiau is stated to contain
two thousand fighting men; in this number are included the village of
Pinokok (small), of Labang Labang (large), of Sayap, which we did not
see. I should be inclined to reduce the Kiaus by five hundred men,
though we understood them to say that their tribe was numerous beyond
the north-western spur, in the neighbourhood of Sayap. I think we shall
not be over-estimating the population by placing it at four thousand
fighting Ida’an, or sixteen thousand inhabitants. Rejecting the women
and children, both male and female, and the aged, one in four may
be taken as the combatants. There were many villages on the eastern
branch, some of Piasaus, others probably of Buñgol. The great extent
of country cleared shows the population to be comparatively numerous.
I may make this observation, the result of many years’ experience,
that I have seldom found the statements of the natives with regard to
population above the truth. In Sarawak and the neighbouring rivers,
where we had better means of ascertaining the correctness of the
accounts rendered, I have always found it necessary to add a third to
the numbers stated.
The Tawaran, perhaps, contains a population nearly equal to that of the
Tampasuk. The villages between the mouth and Bawang are numerous, but
much concealed by groves of fruit-trees. Tamparuli was an extensive
village, and Bawang of fair size. The Nilau tribe was scattered over
the sides of the hills. Kalawat was a large village, with perhaps
eighty families. Buñgol contains, perhaps, over one hundred and fifty
families. The Tagoh, Bañgow, and other villages, were observed on
sub-spurs; and beyond Buñgol the tribes must be numerous, if we may
judge from the extensive fires made by them to clear their plantations.
On the right-hand branch are also many villages, but we had no
opportunity of examining them. By native accounts, the Tawaran district
is more populous than the Tampasuk.
Of Anaman I know nothing; of Kabatuan I saw little beyond the Malay
town; but I was informed that the Ida’an were numerous in the interior
of this river, as well as on the hills that surround Mengkabong. I have
placed them at two thousand, which is not a high estimate.
Mengkabong contains also an extensive Baju population, and in
estimating them at six thousand, it is, I believe, much below the
number. The villages are numerous, and the chief town large. It is
possible that there are not more than a thousand fighting-men, but the
Bajus are holders of slaves, and there are also many strangers settled
among them.
Sulaman is placed at a thousand, which includes both Baju and Ida’an,
and may be a little over the mark; for it I have nothing but vague
native testimony.
Abai contains about thirty houses, perhaps not above two hundred
people; while on the hills are a few small villages of Ida’an. I have
put them at one hundred and twenty-five fighting-men, or five hundred
in all.
Tampasuk contains about one hundred and fifty Lanun men, or seven
hundred and fifty population. Bajus, five hundred, or two thousand five
hundred people. I have multiplied the Lanun and Baju fighting-men by
five, as they have many slaves both male and female.
Gaya Bay contains about three hundred people.
The population of these districts may therefore be entered as follows:--
Gaya Bay 300 Malays and others.
Kabatuan 1,000 Ida’an.
Mengkabong 6,000 Bajus and others.
„ 1,000 Ida’an.
Tawaran 10,000 Ida’an.
Sulaman 1,000 Ida’an and Bajus.
Abai 200 Bajus.
„ 500 Ida’an.
Tampasuk 2,500 Bajus.
„ 750 Lanuns.
„ 16,000 Ida’an.
------
Total 45,250
The only figures in the above which I think may possibly be overstated,
are the Bajus of Tampasuk. We may fairly reckon the population of the
districts between Gaya Bay and Tampasuk at forty-five thousand, being
quite aware, at the same time, that it is founded on very loose data;
but it may serve as a guide to future inquirers.
There are but trifling manufactures carried on. The Bajus are much
occupied in preparing salt for the inland tribes. The only other
manufacture that is worth noticing, is that of cloths from native
cotton, and the most esteemed are those of the Lanuns. The cloth is
generally black, with a few white lines running through it, forming
a check. It is strong and more enduring than any other I have seen,
and fetches a high price--varying from 1_l._ 5_s._ to 2_l._ 10_s._
for a piece sufficient for a single petticoat. They are, however,
deteriorating since the introduction of cheap English yarn, which is
superseding the carefully-spun native. No minerals have as yet been
discovered in these districts beyond the coal in Gaya Island, though
tin has been found to the north of Kina Balu, near one of the streams
flowing into Maludu Bay.
There is but little trade carried on: the only articles of export are
tobacco, rice, a little wax, cattle, and horses, or rather ponies;
the imports consist of cloths, iron, gongs, and earthenware, with
occasionally a valuable jar. Little beyond tobacco is brought from the
interior, as everything is carried on men’s shoulders, none of their
paths being as yet suited for loaded beasts.
It is a great drawback to this country, having no navigable rivers,
nor on the hills have they good paths. The latter are easily made, the
country presenting no natural difficulties, while in the plains very
fair roads already exist, fit for their sledges. The tribes in the
interior are at present far beyond any commerce; in fact, the people
near the lake have never been visited by the coast population, and
trust to exchanging with the other Ida’an. But as the taste for cloth
is evidently on the increase, it is possible the trade may improve.
Englishmen travelling in that country do great good by spreading a
taste for European manufactures.
With respect to the languages spoken, I will at present make but few
remarks. The Lanun and Baju are entirely different from the language
of the Ida’an. I have made several vocabularies and many inquiries. At
Kiau, we collected above 400 words; at Blimbing on the Limbang, 300;
and whilst in Maludu Bay, seven years ago, I likewise made a short
vocabulary. These three agree so far that I may say that the Ida’an and
Bisaya have two out of three words in common; and on further inquiry, I
think that the remaining one-third will gradually dwindle away, as at
present many of the words in my Bisaya vocabulary are Malay, for which
they have their native word. The result of my inquiries is that all
the Ida’an speak the same language with slight local differences. We
found all the tribes on the Tampasuk and Tawaran spoke fluently to each
other, and one of our interpreters, who had never before visited these
countries, but had been accustomed to the aborigines to the south,
conversed freely with them. The Bisayas live on the rivers in the
neighbourhood of the capital, and their language differs but little
from that of the Ida’an.
The Ida’an contains but few Malay words, these generally referring to
imported articles and domestic animals. Some are similar to those of
the Land Dayaks of Sarawak.
I will add a few remarks on the geology of these districts, premising
them, however, by the observation that I am ignorant of the science.
Wherever the rocks protruded through the hills, we noticed they were
decomposing sandstone; and this character continued until we reached
the great mountain. Occasionally, as in Gaya island, the rocks were of
a harder texture; and here a Mr. Molley is said to have been shown a
vein of coal. In the districts to the west and south of the Tampasuk,
we noticed no signs of primitive rock; while in the Tampasuk river,
huge boulders of granite are met with a little above Butong, while the
debris extends as far as the junction; but the rocks of the hills are
sandstone, and this character continues to the base of the mountain.
At Koung, the rocks dipped to the south-west by south, at an angle
of 45°. On the Marei Parei spur, we could trace the sandstone to the
height of about 4,000 feet, the dip about 80° to the south-west;
greenstone immediately after protruded, and appeared to form the chief
rock. On the Marei Parei spur, the compass was so affected by the
peroxide of iron which formed a sort of coating to the rocks, that it
would not act. The main spur consists at first of sandstone; then of
shale, almost as hard as stone; and of various rocks which I could not
recognize; then of decomposing granite, above which commences the
massive outline of the summit. We found in our collection a piece of
limestone that was broken off somewhere near the base of the mountain
in the Kalupis valley.
The country presents the appearance of having been originally of
sedimentary rocks, through which the granite has forced its way,
upheaving the sandstone to an angle of 80°.
With regard to the climate, I made a few notes. The plain and low hills
are much the same as the rest of Borneo, or other tropical countries;
but in the neighbourhood of Kina Balu it is of course different. We
found at the village of Kiau that the thermometer never marked above
77° during the day, and varied from 66° to 69° during the nights. The
mean of all the observations gave a shade below 68°. The Marei Parei
spur offered a fine position for a sanitarium, at any height between
4,000 feet and 5,000 feet. Our tent was pitched at about 4,700 feet,
and we found that the thermometer marked 75° (mean) in the midday
shade, 56° at six A.M., and 63° (mean) at six P.M. This would be a
delightful climate in a well-built house. The cave at 9,000 feet was
very cold--at two P.M. 52° mean; and during the three nights I slept
there on my first expedition, it was 40° 33´ (mean); ranging between
36° 5´ and 43°. In my last expedition, in the cave, the thermometer
marked: 6.30 A.M., 43°; 9.15 A.M., 48°; 3·30 P.M., 51·250°; 6 P.M.,
45·750°. Night, registering thermometer: 41·250° and 41°. On the
summit, during mist and rain, it marked 52°; while exposed to a strong
wind and a storm of sleet and hail, it fell to 43°. On a fine day,
however, it marked 62° in the shade, there being much refraction from
the rocks.
I think it most probable that water would freeze on the summit during
a similar storm of hail and sleet to which we were exposed, were it to
occur during the night-time, as at two P.M. the thermometer
fell to 43°, though held in the hand: and at the cave it fell to 36·5°
during a very cold night, though partly protected by the tent, and when
I went out, I found a sort of hoar-frost on the rocks and leaves.
I must add a few remarks on the map. The sea-line is taken from
the Admiralty chart, while the interior I have filled up from the
observations and rough plans made during the journey. It may afford
some idea of the country, and serve until a traveller with greater
advantages makes a better.
I will add a few remarks on that great indentation of the land to the
north of Kina Balu, called Maludu Bay, but more correctly Marudu.
Steering from the westward, there are two channels by which the
northern point of Borneo may be rounded: they are to the north and
south of the little island of Kalampunuan. A sweeping current often
renders the latter dangerous, as it would drive a vessel on a reef
of rocks that runs off the island. Just before the extreme point is
reached there is a small river or creek of Luru, which is also known by
the name of Simpañg Meñgayu, or the Cruising Creek, the Sampan Mangy of
the Admiralty charts. Round the point there is another, named Karatang,
and both are well known to the natives as the spots where the Balignini
and Lanun pirates lurked to catch the trading prahus which passed that
way.
An incident occurred to a Bornean acquaintance, named Nakodah Bakir,
who had accompanied me on my visit to the Baram River. He had found,
from experience, the inutility of arming his prahus, with brass
swivels of native manufacture; as, though they carry far, they seldom
hit anything; so he changed his plan and armed his men with English
muskets. Early in the autumn of 1851, he was on a trading voyage to
Maludu Bay, and having secured a good cargo, was returning to the
capital. As he rounded the northern point, five Lanun boats dashed out
of Luru, and pulled towards him, firing their brass swivels, whose
balls passed harmlessly through his rigging. He kept his thirty men
quiet till the first pirate boat was within fifty yards, when his crew
jumped up and fired a volley of musketry into it. This novel reception
so astonished the pirates that they gave up the pursuit.
Maludu Bay extends nearly thirty miles inland. The western shore,
near the point, is rather flat, but soon rises into a succession of
low hills; and as you penetrate deeper into the bay they swell to the
proportion of mountains on both shores, and Kina Balu and its attendant
ranges form a fine background to the end of the bay, which, for nearly
four miles from the shore, shallows from about two fathoms to scarcely
sufficient water to float a boat. By keeping the channel, however, the
principal river may be reached. The land is quite swampy on both banks,
mangrove jungle reaching to within a mile of the town, then nipa palms,
mixed with a few forest trees; in fact, the whole of the head of the
bay appears gradually filling up: the land obviously encroaching on the
sea, the nipa palm gaining on the mangrove, which is spreading far out
in the salt water on the flat muddy bottom. The rush of the current
from these rivers is sometimes so great that we have found the whole
head of the bay for five miles completely fresh, and the amount of
earth held in suspension renders it of a white appearance. The houses
are built on a narrow creek on the right-hand bank of the river; near
the country is flat, but the mountains soon skirt the plains. The
population of the bay is sufficient to render it a valuable commercial
settlement for native traders, if security for life and property could
be established, and if the monopolies of the chiefs could be destroyed.
To show the insecurity, I may mention that in 1859 the Sultan of
Brunei sent a trading prahu there with a valuable cargo. On the return
voyage, just as they were leaving the mouth of the river Panchur, the
vessel commenced leaking, and they had to land a part of the cargo. The
supercargo returned to the town for assistance, and during his absence,
a large party of men came into the river, drove away the crew, and
carried off all the goods. They were not regular pirates, but a band of
Sulus, who could not resist the temptation to plunder.
The monopolies of the chiefs, however, prevent any intercourse with the
producing classes, and thus prevent the possibility of a large increase
of trade.
I made many inquiries as to the amount of population which dwells in
the districts bordering on this deep bay. I obtained from Sherif Hasan,
the son of Sherif Usman, who formerly ruled these districts with a
strong hand, a list of the number of Ida’an families who paid tribute
to his father. I then inquired of the chief Datu Budrudin, of Sherifs
Musahor, Abdullah, and Houssein, and of a number of traders, and their
accounts do not greatly vary.
Sherif Usman received tribute from the following districts:--
Udat 200 families of Ida’an.
Milau 200 „ „
Lotong 150 „ „
Anduan 50 „ „
Metunggong 300 „ „
Bira’an 100 „ „
Tigaman 250 „ „
Taminusan 50 „ „
Bintasan -- --
Bingkungan 60 „ „
Panchur 500 „ „
Buñgan 300 „ „
Tandek 1,500 „ „
-----
3,660 families.
Add a third 1,220 families not paying revenue.
-----
Total 4,880 families.
At six to a family, this would give nearly 30,000 people.
Comparing this statement with those given by the assembled chiefs,
I find they slightly differ. They reckoned the population at 36,000
people; and I account for it, first, by Sherif Hasan not having given
the population of Bintasan; and, secondly, by his only mentioning the
number of families on the Buñgun who paid tribute to his father, there
being above a thousand families who did not.
They all represented the district of Bengkoka, not included in the
above list, as the most important and populous of all; it is on the
eastern coast of the bay, and the river, though barred at the entrance,
is reputed deep inside. Its population is stated at 16,000 Ida’an.
The Malays and Sulus residing in all these districts are represented
as not very numerous; in fact, as under 5,000, of whom 1,500 are at
Panchur, 1,500 at Bengkoka, and the rest scattered at the various other
villages. If the above figures represent the numbers, there are about
52,000 Ida’an on the banks of the rivers flowing into the bay, and
about 5,000 strangers. They all, however, explained that, when they
enumerated the Ida’an, they only spoke of those villages which were
under the influence of the people of the coast, and that there were
many tribes among the mountains with whom they had little intercourse.
I once met a party of these Ida’an; they were a dark, sharp-featured
race, intelligent-looking, and appeared in features very much like
the Land Dayaks of Sarawak. They were dressed in their war costume,
consisting of heavy, padded jackets, but wore the chawat or cloth round
their loins. They were slight and short men.
The productions of these districts consist of rattans, wax, camphor,
tortoise-shell, tripang or sea-slug, and kaya laka, a sweet-scented
wood. Large quantities of rice and tobacco are grown, and, if
encouraged, these cultivations would greatly increase. The only
minerals as yet discovered are coal in the Bengkoka River, and tin in
some stream at the foot of the Kina Balu range. I saw specimens of the
latter, but no one has ventured to work it yet. The insecurity would
prevent the Chinese succeeding.
Starting from the head of Maludu Bay, and skirting the eastern shore,
it is found to be shoal off Mobang Point, and on the next inlet, Teluk
Mobañg, Sherif Usman endeavoured to establish a village; but while
his people were clearing the forest, they were seized with severe
vomitings, many dying; all arising, the Malays, confidently believe,
from the machinations of the evil spirits who had been disturbed in
their homes. Leaving the points of Taburi and Si Perak, we pass through
the straits formed by the island of Banguey and the mainland. That
Island is inhabited in the interior by Ida’an, but on the shore many
Bajus assemble, collecting tortoise-shell and sea-slug, and they have
built many houses near the peak. It was they who pillaged and burnt
the _Minerva_, wrecked off Balambañgan, in November, 1848. I
have mentioned the Mengkabong people having treacherously plundered
a village on Banguey; the inhabitants consisted of their own race,
mixed with a few Sulus and others. The islets to the south-west of
Banguey are named Padudañgan (by the Sulus it is called Palarukan),
and Patarunan. Indarawan is the name of a small river at the south of
Banguey, where, it is said, sufficient good water may be procured to
supply vessels. Passing between Mali Wali and a rock off the coast, the
soundings are very variable, and the sea appears filled with sandbanks
and shoals; in fact, for a frigate, the sea is not sufficiently clear
of reefs till we arrive opposite Sandakan Bay.
Commencing from the north-eastern point of Borneo, we first come to
a little bay called Batul Ayak, the only inhabitants of which are
Bajus, who entirely reside in their boats. Then there is a small
river called Kina (China) Bañgun: there are but few people residing
there, wanderers with no settled dwellings. After that there is Kang
Karasan, where there are probably not more than a couple of hundred
Mahommedans, but the Dusuns in the interior are numerous: my informants
knew of villages containing above three hundred families. The river
Paitan is large and deep, and there are above a thousand Islams living
here, and the Ida’an in the interior are represented to be as numerous
as the leaves on the trees, and the slopes of the hills are covered
with great forests of camphor-trees. I may observe that boxes made of
camphor-wood prevent any insects meddling with woollen cloths, and are
therefore very useful. Camphor has so powerful an aromatic smell, that
it will drive every insect from its neighbourhood. Passing the stream
of Babahar, which is small, and without inhabitants, we arrive at
Sugut, to the north of the commencement of Labuk Bay; but it has also a
small entrance to the south of it. The Islam population is represented
as numerous, while seven thousand families of Ida’an reside in the
interior; in consequence of their great superiority of numbers, their
chiefs have great influence in those districts. A few elephants are
caught here, but the principal exports are rattans, wax, and camphor.
The north-east coast of Borneo, as far as the entrance of the Sugut
River, is rather flat, only a few low hills occasionally diversifying
the scene; but no sooner do you round the point, and enter Labuk Bay,
than it presents a different aspect: the low hills gradually swell
into mountains, one range of which is remarkably peaked--as jagged,
from one view, as the edge of a saw. Kina Balu is visible along this
coast, and from the eastern side the ascent appears feasible. A vessel
steering along the shore finds it difficult, from the numerous shoals,
while pretty islets are scattered about in every direction. If the
Benggaya be approached in a direct line, the water gradually decreases
from three to one and a half fathoms; but, keeping close into the
front, it deepens to five, seven, and no bottom with a ten-fathom line.
The country, as viewed from the mouth of this river, presents only
mangrove jungle, with an occasional glimpse at the distant mountains:
its entrance is very shallow, not deep enough at low tide to float a
ship’s cutter. To reach the village of Benggaya, it is necessary to
keep to the left-hand branch, avoiding the broad stream which stretches
away to the right; but after ten miles the stream divides, and it is
necessary to pass by the left-hand branch, and continue for about
twenty miles farther up a most extraordinarily winding river before the
houses are reached. This out-of-the-way situation is chosen to avoid
the attacks of pirates. The banks of this river present a continued
succession of mangrove and nipa swamp for many miles, only occasionally
varied by dry land and fine forest trees. The stream winds in a most
extraordinary manner, and at one place the reaches had met, and nothing
but a fallen tree prevented a saving of two miles of distance. The
inhabitants consist of a few Islams, called men of Buluñgan, doubtless
fugitives from the Malay State of that name a couple of hundred miles
farther south. There is an overland communication between Sugut and
Benggaya, prepared by the latter in case of being suddenly surprised,
as they have no interior to fly to, and consequently no Ida’an
population.
The largest river which runs into this bay is the Labuk, which gives
its name to the place. It has three entrances--Kalagan, small; Labuk,
large; Sabi, small. Off its mouth is a place called Lingkabu, famous
for its pearl fishery. The productions of this district are principally
camphor, wax, rattans, and pearls, and the interior is reported to be
well inhabited by the Ida’an. Next to it there is an insignificant
village of Islams on the river Suñgalihut, and is only inhabited on
account of the edible birds’ nests found in the interior.
Between the eastern point of Labuk Bay and the islands there is a
three-fathom channel. The coast is low, with no marked features until
we round the point, and the bluff islands of Sandakan Bay are visible.
Then the land appears to rise gradually into pretty hills, presenting
beautiful slopes for cultivation; but as we approach the entrances of
the Kina Batañgan, the land again becomes low. Sandakan Bay itself is
a splendid harbour, with a good supply of fresh water. It used to be
well inhabited, but on one occasion the villages were surprised by the
Balignini pirates, and sacked and burnt by them. The inhabitants who
escaped the attack dispersed among the neighbouring communities, but
every year strong parties of the surrounding people assemble there to
collect the valuable products of the place, which consist of large
quantities of white birds’ nests, pearls, wax, sea-slug, and the best
kind of camphor.
About four or five years ago, Pañgeran, or Datu Mahomed, the ruler
of Atas, became so unbearably tyrannical that a large section of the
population determined to abandon their country, and hearing of the
English settlement of Labuan, resolved to remove there. One of their
principal men proceeded first to make arrangements for the others, who
in the meantime made temporary dwellings in Sandakan Bay. He sailed
round to the north-west coast, and unfortunately put into the Papar
river for water. The chief of that district, Pañgeran Omar, detained
him and forced him to send up his family to his house. Week after week
passed, and they were still kept there, till information reached our
colony, when the governor sent an officer to try and release these
people, but his representations were treated with contempt, as he had
no material force at his back; and the next thing I heard was that the
Bornean chief had put the Atas man to death, on pretence that he was
about to run amuck, and taken the wife and daughters into his harim,
reducing the followers to slavery. When this intelligence reached
Sandakan Bay, it is not surprising the fugitives did not venture on the
inhospitable north-west coast. The whole affair might have been better
managed on our part, and had proper representations been made to the
admiral on the station, there is little doubt he would have considered
himself authorized to interfere.
Passing this bay, we arrive at the many mouths of the Kina Batañgan
river; the first, named Balabatang, is said to connect the river with
the bay; the second is Trusan Abai, by which the first village may be
reached in seven days. The deepest entrance is Tundong Buañgin, and
in certain months, perhaps after the rainy season, it is said there is
a channel with three fathoms; but in the dry weather the sand again
collects and spoils the passage. It is seldom used, except by very
large trading prahus, as it takes them thirty days to reach the first
village. Judging by the time required by the Bornean boats to reach
the town of Lañgusin, on the Baram river, during the rainy season, we
may calculate that with the windings of the river, the first village
must be about a hundred miles from the mouth. The Sulu prahus being
heavier built, the Bornean ones used in the Baram trade would move a
third faster. The first village on the banks is called Bras Manik.
There are numerous hamlets beyond; in fact, the Kina Batañgan river
is always spoken of as one of the most populous, and by far the most
important on the north-eastern coast, and it is the one the Datus of
Sulu watch with the most jealous attention. As this is the only country
in Borneo where the elephants are numerous, it is the only one where
ivory forms an important article of trade in the eyes of the natives.
But the most valuable articles are the remarkably fine white birds’
nests and the camphor, which is collected in large quantities in the
old forests which clothe the lofty mountains seen in the interior. Wax,
sea-slug, very fine tortoise-shell, and also pearls, are the articles
that render this trade so sought after. The tortoise-shell is collected
on the many islands with broad sandy beaches that stud this quiet sea.
My servant once found a packet ready prepared for sale left by some
careless collector near the remains of a deserted hut. Turtle also
frequent these islands; and one day, while walking along the beach
with a blue-jacket, we saw a fine animal in shoal water. He sprang
in, and after a vigorous struggle, in which his companions partly
assisted, he turned the beast on his back and towed him ashore, to
afford, next day, excellent turtle soup for the whole ship’s company.
The natives generally despise rattans as articles of export, on account
of their great bulk, otherwise they might collect sufficient to load
many ships. The principal articles of import into these countries are
gray shirtings, chintzes, red cloth, iron, steel, brass wire, beads,
and powder and muskets. With opium, they say themselves, they are
sufficiently supplied by the Lanun pirates, who obtain it from the
prahus they capture among the Dutch islands.
Sigama is the next river, and has but a small population of Islams,
though there are many Ida’an in the interior.
Cape Unsang is low and marked by few characteristic features, but on
rounding the point becomes steadily prettier until we reach the Tungku
river, when it presents a beautiful succession of low hills with the
mountain of Siriki to the left, which is a good mark to discover the
pirate haunt of Tungku. All the small rivers on the southern shore of
Cape Unsang are barred, not admitting a ship’s barge at low-water--at
least, we did not find deeper channels. I saw here a shark, the largest
I have ever noticed: it swam to and fro in the shallow water, eyeing
the English seamen who were dragging their boats over the sands, but
it did not venture near enough to be dangerous. We were sitting in the
gig a little to seaward and it passed and repassed within a few yards
of us, and I thought it must have been fifteen feet in length, but the
imagination is apt to wander on such occasions, and as it swam in very
shallow water, it appeared to show more of its back than usual. As the
officers and men were on particular service, no one attempted to put
a ball into it. Tungku appeared a type of the neighbouring districts:
near the sea it is flat, occasionally varied by a low hill. I walked
several hours through this country, and never before saw more luxuriant
crops; the rice stalks were over our heads, the sugar cane was of
enormous girth, and the pepper vines had a most flourishing appearance:
the soil must be of the very finest quality.
I have visited none of the districts on the east coast to the south of
Tungku, but I heard that the people of Tidong, as of old, are troubling
the neighbouring countries, as the Dayaks of Seribas and Sakarang did
the north-west coast when I first reached Borneo. In sight of Cape
Unsang, are many islands, at present the resort of the Balignini, as
Tawi Tawi and Binadan. A chief from the former captured a Spanish
schooner in 1859, and was reported to have found the daughter of the
captain on board. The Spanish Government made many efforts to recover
her; but by native report she still lives with her captor, Panglima
Taupan, who treats her with every attention and considers her his
principal wife. I heard last year she had borne a child to him, and was
now unwilling to leave him.
The inhabitants of the north-east coast may be divided into Pagan and
Mahomedan. The former are Ida’an, no doubt exactly similar to their
countrymen found on the opposite coast; but at Sugut the natives affirm
there is a tribe who have a short tail. I have elsewhere mentioned
that my informant declared he had felt it: it was four inches long,
and quite stiff; and that at their houses they were provided with
seats with holes for this uncomfortable prolongation of the spine; the
poorer people contented themselves with sitting on simple logs of wood,
allowing the tail to hang over. It is quite possible there may have
been some instances in a tribe, as I have heard that this deformity has
been known in Europe; and from one or two would soon arise the story
of the tribes with tails. I do not think I have mentioned elsewhere
that I have seen Dayaks who carry little mats hanging down their backs,
fastened to their waist-cloths, on which they sit: they always have
them there, ready to be used. I at first thought that the story of the
men with tails arose from the method of wearing the waistcloth adopted
by some of the tribes: they twist it round their loins, and have one
end hanging down in front, the other behind, but some so manage it
that the resemblance to a tail at a little distance is remarkable,
particularly when the men are running fast.
The Mahomedan population consists of Sulus, Bajus, and a few Lanuns,
together with slaves, consisting of captives made by the pirates during
their cruises among the various islands of the Archipelago, and sold
at that great slave-mart, Sugh. The districts of the north-east coast
are nearly all governed by chiefs from Sulu, or by the descendants
of the Arab adventurers who all assume the title of Serib, or, more
correctly, Sherif. They do their utmost to monopolize the trade, and
do not hesitate to cut off any native prahus who may venture on that
coast; and Europeans have avoided all connection with it for many
years; the last attempt was made by a Mr. Burns, who lost life and ship
in Maludu Bay in 1851.
END OF VOL. I
London: Printed by SMITH, ELDER & CO., Little Green Arbour
Court, Old Bailey, E.C.
FOOTNOTES:
[1] See chapters on the “Social Life of the Land Dayaks.”
[2] See Dalton’s _Koti_; Hunt’s _Notices of the Indian Archipelago_.
[3] Dayak,--beruri.
[4] The Land Dayak word “borich,” and the Sea Dayak “manang,” are
generally translated male and female doctors, but from their employment
and duties, I think “priest” and “priestess” would better convey the
idea.
[5] Dekan.
[6] Tinungan.
[7] Man buiya.
[8] “Kena antu.”
[9] “Peti,” made by bending back a sharp bamboo spear. An animal
touching a stick, placed across an opening, lets fly the spring, and
the spear is driven through the unheeding stranger, whether human or
animal.
[10] “Sikurung,” a bamboo altar.
[11] “Mamuk Benih.”
[12] “Nyipa ’an.”
[13] “Man Sawa,” or “Nyitungid.”
[14] Nyishupen, or “nyipidang menyupong.”
[15] Sirangan, also a bamboo altar.
[16] A short account of this mission will be found at the end of the
second volume.
[17] _The Transactions of the Linnean Society of London._ Vol.
XXII., Part IV., p. 419.
[18] _The Transactions of the Linnean Society of London._ Vol.
XXII., Part IV., p. 421.
[19] _The Transactions of the Linnean Society of London._ Vol.
XXII., Part IV., p. 420.
[20] _The Transactions of the Linnean Society of London._ Vol.
XXII., Part IV., p. 420.
[21] I have inserted this chapter, though, in fact, it contains but
a summary of the geographical information collected during our two
expeditions to Kina Balu, and some previous coasting voyages. It
necessarily involves repetition, but I hope will prove useful to
geographers who may be desirous to have the subject presented to them
in one view, and it will help to elucidate the accompanying map. To
render it more complete, I have added a geographical description of
Maludu Bay and the north-east coast of Borneo.
[22] _Voyage of the Samarang_, vol. i. p. 190.
[23] Called Kini by the Dusuns and Ida’an.
[24] Ida’an is the name given them by the Bajus, Dusun by the Borneans.
Transcriber’s Notes:
1. Obvious printers’, punctuation and spelling errors have been
corrected silently.
2. Where hyphenation is in doubt, it has been retained as in the
original.
3. Some hyphenated and non-hyphenated versions of the same words have
been retained as in the original.
4. Superscripts are represented using the caret character, e.g. D^r. or
X^{xx}.
5. Italics are shown as _xxx_.
6. The errata have been silently corrected by the transcriber.