SECOND ASCENT OF KINA BALU--_Continued_.
Return of the Men for Rice--Readiness to assist us--New
Kinds of Pitcher Plants--The Valley of Pinokok--Beautiful
Nepenthes--Kina Taki--Description of the _Nepenthes
Rajah_--Rocks Coated with Iron--Steep Strata--The
Magnolia--Magnificent Sunset Scene--Fine Soil--Talk about
the Lake--Change of Fashions--Effect of Example--Rapid
Tailoring--Language the same among Ida’an, Dusun, and
Bisaya--Reports--Start for Marei Parei--The Fop Kamá--Prepare
Night Lodgings--Fragrant Bed--Stunted Vegetation--Appearance of
Precipices--Dr. Hooker--Botanical Descriptions--_Nepenthes
Rajah_--Manner of Growing--Great Size--Used as a
Bucket--Drowned Rat--_Nepenthes Edwardsiana_--An
Account of it--Beautiful Plants--Botanical Description of
_Nepenthes Edwardsiana_--Extensive Prospects--Peaked
Hill of Saduk Saduk--Noble Buttress--Situation for
Barracks--Nourishing Food--Deep Valleys--Familiar
Intercourse with the Villagers--Turning the Laugh--Dirty
Faces--Looking-glasses--Their Effect--Return of our
Followers--Start for the Mountain--Rough Cultivation--The
Mountain Rat used as Food--Our Old Guides--Difficult
Walking--Scarlet Rhododendron--Encamp--Double
Sunset--_Nepenthes Lowii_--Botanical
Description--_Nepenthes Villosa_--Botanical
Description--Extensive View of the Interior of
Borneo--The Lake--The Cave--Ascend to the Summit--Its
Extent and Peculiarities--Distant Views--North-western
Peak--Severe Storm--Injured Barometer--Useless
Thermometers--Dangerous Descent--Accidents--Quartz in
Crevices--Clean and Pleasant Girls--Friendly Parting--Ida’an
Sacrifices--Return by Koung--Kalawat and Nilu--Death
of Sahat--A Thief--Cholera-Incantations and Method of
Treatment--Arrival at Gantisan--Fine Wharf--The Pangeran--Bad
Weather--Heavy Squall--Little Rice to be had--Sail--Anchor
at Gaya Island--Curious Stones--Fish--Description of a
Magnificent Kind--Poisonous Fins--Set Sail--Awkward
Position--Water-spout--Admiralty Charts--Names require
Correcting--Serious Mistake--Among the Shoals--Fearful
Squall--Falling Stars and Brilliant Meteor--Arrival at Labuan.
Kadum and the men of Tamparuli, together with the overseer and most of
our followers, started on their journey, while we amused ourselves in
collecting vocabularies, and trying to make ourselves understood by the
people. They showed a great readiness to assist us, particularly the
girls, who made us repeat sentences after them, and then burst into
loud laughter either at our pronunciation or the comical things they
had made us utter.
All the lads of the village were rejoiced at our arrival, as we
purchased the plants they brought in, particularly those with
variegated leaves, and they thus obtained brass wire and cloth. One
evening, a man, who had been visiting another village of this tribe,
produced from his basket specimens of two new kinds of nepenthes, or
pitcher-plants, which were wondrous to behold, so we determined to make
a visit to the spot where he found them.
As the man assured us it would be a very long walk, we provided
ourselves with blankets, to enable us to sleep out a night, if
necessary. We passed over a hill at the back of the village, which,
where the path crosses it, is about five hundred feet above the houses,
and is a continuation of a spur of Kina Balu. We then descended into
a ravine, and, crossing over a sub-spur, had a fine view of a valley
about three miles broad. A stream ran on either side of it, and between
was a fine space almost flat, at the lower end of which was the village
of Pinokok. Having descended and crossed two streams called Haya Haya,
which soon joined, however, into one to form the Pinokok, we traversed
the plain, and rested on the banks of the Dahombang, or Hobang Stream,
to breakfast on sweet potatoes and sardines, the worst things that can
be imagined for a morning meal. Crossing the Hobang, a steep climb led
us to the western spur, along which our path lay; here, at about 4,000
feet, Mr. Low found a beautiful white and spotted pitcher-plant, which
he considered the prettiest of the twenty-two species of nepenthes with
which he was then acquainted; the pitchers are white and covered in
the most beautiful manner with spots of an irregular form, of a rosy
pink colour. On each leaf is a row of very soft downy hairs running
along its edge, and a similar brown pubescence grows on the cups. It
is a climbing plant, and varies from fifteen to twenty feet in length.
Its leaves are about nine inches long in the blade, and have winged
petioles which are carried down the stem to the next leaf below, each
of which bears a pitcher on a prolonged petiole about fifteen inches in
length.
[Illustration:
Day & Son, Lith. to the Queen
NEPENTHES RAJAH. _Hook fil._
Published by Smith, Elder & C^o., 65. Cornhill, London.]
We continued our walk along the ridge until we had reached an elevation
of 4,500 feet, when the path descended to the pleasant stream, or
rather torrent, of Kina Taki, in which greenstone was the principal
rock. All the rivulets we have passed to-day fall into the Dahombang,
which continues its course until, winding round the bluff point of
Labang Labang, it joins the Tampasuk. Another steep climb of 800 feet
brought us to the Marei Parei spur, to the spot where the ground was
covered with the magnificent pitcher-plants, of which we had come in
search. This one has been called the _Nepenthes Rajah_, and
is a plant about four feet in length, with broad leaves stretching
on every side, having the great pitchers resting on the ground in a
circle about it. Its shape and size are remarkable. I will give the
measurement of a small one, to indicate the form: the length along the
back was nearly fourteen inches; from the base to the top of the column
in front was five inches; and its lid was a foot long by fourteen
inches broad, and of an oval shape. Its mouth was surrounded by a
plaited pile, which near the column was two inches broad, lessening
in its narrowest part to three-quarters of an inch. The plaited pile
of the mouth was also undulating in broad waves. Near the stem the
pitcher is four inches deep, so that the mouth is situated upon it in a
triangular manner. The colour of an old pitcher was a deep purple, but
that of the others is generally mauve outside, very dark indeed in the
lower part, though lighter towards the rim; the inside is of the same
colour, but has a kind of glazed and shiny appearance. The lid is mauve
in the centre, shading to green at the edges. The stems of the female
flowers we found always a foot shorter than those of the male, and the
former were far less numerous than the latter. It is indeed one of the
most astonishing productions of nature.
Mr. Low set to work enthusiastically to collect specimens, while I
tried to procure some compass bearings; but the mist kept driving
over the country, so that I had only one good opportunity. I rested
the compass on a rock, and was surprised by its pointing in a very
different direction from what the position of the sun showed it
should. On raising it in my hands, it pointed correctly. I found, on
examination, that the rock was covered with a thick coating of iron,
and all in the neighbourhood were in a similar state. To-day we reached
an elevation of 5,400 feet. The path we followed was tolerably good;
we were told that it led to the village of Sayap, a branch of the Kiau
tribe.
The sandstone near the mountain is almost perpendicular, being at an
angle of 80°: lower down the sides it lessens. It appears as if the
molten granite had been forced up through the sandstone. Along the
sides of the spurs were huge boulders of granite, left, doubtless, by
the streams ere they cut their way deeper in the earth. Mr. Low having
finished collecting, we returned, and during the walk were continually
regaled with the rich perfume of the flowers of the magnolia, but could
not find one of them, though the plant was a common shrub. After a
tiring descent, we reached the plain about five, and made preparations
to pass the night at a hut belonging to Li Moung, in the valley of
Pinokok.
We never had a finer view of Kina Balu than this evening. A white
cloud in the form of a turban, its edges richly fringed with gold,
encompassed most of the highest peaks, while the brightness of the
setting sun rendered every other portion of the mountain distinctly
visible, except those dark valleys cut deep in its sides, where the
Dahombang and the Pinokok have their rise; and even here a succession
of cascades reflected back the sun’s rays from the shadowy gloom.
[Illustration:
T. Picken, lith. Day & Son, Lith^{rs} to the Queen.
Published by Smith Elder & C^o. 65, Cornhill, London.
KINA BALU FROM PINOKOK VALLEY]
We were standing opposite its western face, and having no high buttress
between us and the mountain, we could observe the great precipice,
which is here nearly perpendicular from the sloping summit down
to an elevation of about 5,000 feet. As we stood there admiring the
extreme beauty of the scene, a double rainbow began to appear, and
apparently arching over the mountain, formed, as it were, a bright
framework to the picture. We stayed there until the sun setting beyond
the distant hills threw the valley into shade, but left its brightness
on the craggy peaks above. Gradually the wind rose and drove the clouds
over the heavens, and the form of the mountain and the brilliant
rainbows vanished.
The land in this valley is of the richest description--far superior,
Mr. Low thought, to that used in Ceylon for coffee plantations. The hut
where we stayed the night was 3,000 feet above the level of the sea,
and the hills around about 4,000 feet.
Next morning we returned to the houses by the same path, and rested
on the summit of the hill overlooking the village. Here we sat for
some time, making inquiries about the great lake. They speak of it
as undoubtedly existing, saying we could reach it in three days. One
who had traded with the villages on its banks asserted that standing
on the beach, he could not see the opposite side. The first village
on the road is Tuhan, and the next Inserban: they all call the lake
Ranau, a corruption of the Malay Danau. We could scarcely make any
connected inquiries, on account of the indifference or stupidity of our
interpreter; but seriously discussed the possibility of our being able
to combine the two journeys, but found our means insufficient. With our
party we should have taken a long time, particularly as the villagers
refused to furnish us with guides until their rice-planting was over.
We noticed the great change that had taken place in the ways and
tastes of these people. When Mr. Low was here in 1851, beads and brass
wire were very much sought after. When we came last April, the people
cared nothing for beads, and very little for cloth; their hearts were
set on brass wire. We, however, distributed a good deal of cloth, at
reasonable rates, in exchange for food and services rendered. We now
found that even brass wire, except of a very large size, was despised,
and cloth eagerly desired. Chawats were decreasing, and trousers coming
in. This is a taste very likely to continue, as the weather at Kiau is
generally very cool, and it might also stimulate their industry. At
present, although they keep their plantations very clean, they use no
instrument to turn up the soil, merely putting the seed in a hole made
by a pointed stick. In size, their kiladis, sweet potatoes, and rice
are very inferior and their crops scanty, though the flavour of their
productions is excellent, but with their tobacco they appear to take
much pains. Thinking that potatoes might flourish here, Mr. Low, in
1856, sent some by Mr. Lobb to be given to the villagers to plant; next
morning, however, he found the little boys playing marbles with them.
Even the more civilized Javanese cared little for the seeds of European
vegetables which were distributed freely by the Dutch Government. It
at last struck some shrewd officer that if the natives saw the results
of cultivating these vegetables, they might be induced to turn their
attention to them. He therefore obtained permission to establish a
model garden, and the result was satisfactory. The Javanese, who had
despised the seeds, could not overlook the profit to be derived from
the sale of the crops of potatoes, cabbages, and other esculents,
displayed for their imitation, and were then grateful for seeds.
Nothing but some such scheme will ever induce the Dayaks to alter their
present slovenly system of cultivation.
Among those who accompanied us to Marei Parei was a young lad, who was
paid for his services in gray shirting and thin brass wire. As soon as
he had received them, he cut off three inches of the wire, and began
beating out one end and sharpening the other: it was to make a needle.
His sister brought him some native-made thread; then with his knife he
cut the cloth into a proper shape, and set to work to make a pair of
trousers; nor did he cease his occupation till they were finished, and
by evening he was wearing them.
We were so pleased with our visit to the Marei Parei spur that we
determined to move thither for a few days with our servants, and live
in tents. In the meantime we continued our collection of Kiau words,
which was difficult work with our interpreters.
It has been thought that the tribes living around Kina Balu speak
different languages, but we found, on the contrary, that the Ida’an,
Dusun, and even the Bisaya, can converse freely with each other. We
had with us, during our different expeditions, Bisayas from the river
Kalias, opposite Labuan, an interpreter who had learnt the language
from the people in the interior of Membakut, Malays who had learnt it
at Kimanis, Dusuns from Tamparuli, on the Tawaran, and Ida’an from the
plains of Tampasuk; and yet, after a few days, to become accustomed to
the differences of dialect, all these men conversed freely with the
Kiaus. If they are asked whether they speak the same languages, they
will answer, “No,” and give as an example--“We say _iso_, when the
Kiaus say _eiso_, for ‘no’;” but these are only localisms. I must
add, that none of these people had ever visited the Kiaus until they
accompanied us.
In making vocabularies here we found the villagers very careless of
their pronunciation: for instance, the word “heavy” was at different
times written down, _magat_, _bagat_, _wagat_, and _ogat_; for “rice,”
_wagas_ and _ogas_; for “to bathe,” _padshu_, _padsiu_, and _madsiu_,
and indifferently pronounced in these various ways by the same people.
Many years previously, when I was at Maludu Bay, I collected a few
words of the Ida’an, and they were essentially the same as those of
the aborigines of Tampasuk; and the Malays tell me that the Ida’an
of the north-eastern coast speak so as to be understood by them, who
have acquired their knowledge on the western coast. I may here observe
that the same people are indifferently called Dusun and Ida’an. The
term Dusun, the real meaning of which is villager, is applied to these
northern inhabitants of Borneo by the Malays, while the Bajus generally
call them Ida’an.
While we were making preparations for our short visit to Marei Parei,
we noticed some agitation among the Kiaus, and found it arose from a
report that a large party of Europeans had arrived at Bawang, on the
Tawaran, on their way to the mountain, and it was added, heavy guns had
been heard at sea. We could not, of course, offer any explanation,
but thought there was very little likelihood of any one coming to join
us, and suggested, what proved to be the truth, that the news of our
own arrival at Bawang had been reaching them by a circuitous route.
We treated the report with so much indifference as to satisfy their
suspicious minds.
The next morning, the men who had agreed to carry our bedding refused
to fulfil their contract unless paid double wages; so we started with
our own servants, but were quickly followed by the Ida’an, who eagerly
shouldered the heaviest burdens. They were only trying how far they
could succeed in imposing on us. The Fop also took a load. That name
was affixed to him, on our first visit, from his great attention to
dress, and the favour shown him by all the young girls, more due to his
evident good-nature than to his good looks; he was, however, an active,
powerful man. When we were here in April, he had just married a fine
girl, named Sugan, and used always, when the crowd surrounded us, to be
seen standing behind her with his arms folded round her neck. He was
better mannered than any of his neighbours, and never annoyed us by
begging. He it was who told us he had been to the lake, and followed
the route through Tuhan, Inserban and Barbar. His name is Kamá. I
mention him, as he might prove useful as a guide to the lake, should
any traveller be induced to try that journey.
We followed the same path we used on the former occasion--across the
Pinokok valley, and up the buttress, till we reached Marei Parei, and
encamped on a rocky, dry spot near the place where the _Nepenthes
Rajah_ were found in the greatest abundance.
Knowing that the cold would be severely felt by our followers,
accustomed all their lives to the heat of the plains, we tried to
induce them to take precautions, but without avail. We, however, took
care of ourselves by cutting enough brushwood to raise our bedding a
foot above the damp ground, to fill up the end of our tent and cover
it over with bushes, grass, and reeds, to prevent the cold piercing
through. Around us were thickets of magnolias, but without flowers, and
among the other shrubs which grew near was one which we selected for
our beds, as when bruised it emitted a myrtle-like fragrance.
The temperature was very pleasant in the afternoon, being 75° in the
shade; but this was partly caused by the refraction from the rocky
soil around. In the water the thermometer marked 66·5°, but at sunset
it fell to 60° in our tent, and the men, too late, began to repent of
their idleness.
The vegetation around is very stunted, though above the trees are
large-sized: the former is due to the stony nature of the soil and the
great amount of iron that renders all compass bearings untrustworthy.
It is, I believe, decomposed serpentine, containing a large quantity of
peroxide of iron. Above the vegetation the mountain presents nothing
but rough precipices impossible to ascend. On their face we observed
broad white patches and white lines running across, similar to those
I observed on the summit during my former ascent. On the top of the
north-west peak we noticed a heap of stones, which, through a good
telescope, looked like a cairn, and we were full of conjectures as
to the possibility of a traveller in ancient times having made the
ascent. This apparent cairn was afterwards explained by similar heaps
of granite piled up as if by man, but being simply the harder portions
of the rock remaining when the rest had crumbled away.
At sunrise the thermometer marked 55°, and the air felt very chilly;
so, after a cup of chocolate to warm our blood, we started to explore
the slopes above us.
Dr. Hooker having kindly allowed me to make use of his descriptions
of the wonderful pitcher-plants discovered during these expeditions,
I shall avail myself of the permission, and introduce here his notes
on the Bornean species of _Nepenthes_, as well as the botanical
account of the ones found on the Marei Parei spur.
The largest was the _Nepenthes Rajah_. The plates, copied from
those published in the _Linnean Transactions_, merely give the
form, as it has been found necessary to reduce them to the size of the
volume.
“The want of any important characters in the flowers and fruit of
_Nepenthes_ is a very remarkable feature of these plants. The
leaves differ considerably in insertion, and in being more or less
petioled. The pitchers of most, when young, are shorter, and provided
with two ciliated wings in front; more mature plants bear longer
pitchers, with the wings reduced to thickened lines. The glandular
portion of the pitcher remains more constant than any other, and the
difference between the form of old and young pitchers is often chiefly
confined to the further development of the superior glandular portion
into a neck or tube.”[17]
“_Ascidia magna, ore mediocri, annulo latissime explanato, dense
lamellato v. costato._
“Nepenthes Rajah, H. f. (Frutex, 4-pedalis, _Low_). Foliis maximis
2-pedalibus, oblongo-lanceolatis petiolo costaque crassissimis,
ascidiis giganteis (cum operculo 1-2-pedalibus) ampullaceis ore
contracto, stipite folio peltatim affixo, annulo maximo lato everso
crebre lamellato, operculo amplissimo ovato-cordato, ascidium totum
æquante.--(_Tab._ LXXII).
“_Hab._--Borneo, north coast, on Kina Balu, alt. 5,000 feet
(_Low_). This wonderful plant is certainly one of the most
striking vegetable productions hitherto discovered, and, in this
respect, is worthy of taking place side by side with the _Rafflesia
Arnoldii_. It hence bears the title of my friend Rajah Brooke, of
whose services, in its native place, it may be commemorative among
botanists.... I have only two specimens of leaves and pitchers, both
quite similar, but one twice as large as the other. Of these, the leaf
of the larger is 18 inches long, exclusive of the petioles, which is
as thick as the thumb and 7–8 broad, very coriaceous and glabrous,
with indistinct nerves. The stipes of the pitcher is given off below
the apex of the leaf, is 20 inches long, and as thick as the finger.
The broad ampullaceous pitcher is 6 inches in diameter, and 12 long:
it has two fimbriated wings in front, is covered with long rusty hairs
above, is wholly studded with glands within, and the broad annulus
is everted, and 1–1½ inch in diameter. Operculum shortly stipitate,
10 inches long and 8 broad.
[Illustration:]
Day & Son, Lith. to the Queen.
NEPENTHES LOWII. _H. f._
Published by Smith, Elder & C^o. 65, Cornhill, London.]
[Illustration:
Day & Son. Lith. to the Queen.
Published by Smith, Elder & C^o., 65. Cornhill, London.
NEPENTHES EDWARDSIANA. _Low._]
“The inflorescence is hardly in proportion. Male raceme, 30 inches
long, of which 20 are occupied by the flowers; upper part and flowers
clothed with short rusty pubescence. Peduncles slender, simple or
bifid. Fruiting raceme stout. Peduncles 1½ inches long, often bifid.
Capsule, ¾ inch long, ⅓ broad, rather turgid, densely covered with
rusty tomentum.”[18]
The pitchers, as I have before observed, rest on the ground in a
circle, and the young plants have cups of the same form as those of
the old ones. This morning, while the men were cooking their rice, as
we sat before the tent enjoying our chocolate, observing one of our
followers carrying water in a splendid specimen of the _Nepenthes
Rajah_, we desired him to bring it to us, and found that it held
exactly four pint bottles. It was 19 inches in circumference. We
afterwards saw others apparently much larger, and Mr. Low, while
wandering in search of flowers, came upon one in which was a drowned
rat.
As we ascended, we left the brushwood and entered a tangled jungle, but
few of the trees were large, and the spur of the mountain became very
narrow, sometimes not much wider than the path, and greatly encumbered
at one part by the twining stems of the _Nepenthes Edwardsiana_.
This handsome plant was not, however, much diffused along the spur, but
confined to a space about a quarter of a mile in length, and grew upon
the trees around, with its fine pitchers hanging from all the lower
boughs. We measured one plant and it was twenty feet in length; it was
quite smooth, and the leaves were of a very acute shape at both ends.
It is a long, cylindrical, finely-frilled pitcher, growing on every
leaf; one we picked measured twenty-one inches and a half long, by two
and a half in breadth. They swelled out a little towards the base,
which is bright pea green, the rest of the cylinder being of a bright
brick-red colour. Its mouth is nearly circular, the column with the
border surrounding the mouth being finely formed of thin plates about
a sixth of an inch apart, and about the same in height, and both were
of a flesh colour; the handsome lid is of a circular shape. The dried
specimen forwarded to Dr. Hooker only measured eighteen inches. The
plant is epiphytal, growing on casuarinas (_species nova_). The
pitchers of the young creepers precisely resembled those of the older
ones, except in size.
Whilst examining these, and vainly searching for their flowers, Mr. Low
came upon a small species of a bright crimson colour; its pitchers were
three inches long, and one and a half broad at the widest part, and the
mouth was oblique. Another, but which may be the same in a more mature
state, was green, with irregular spots of purple, having stems of the
latter colour; it was a low plant, not reaching above four feet in
height.
A very handsome plant of a trailing habit also grew on this spur; it
had large bunches of beautiful flowers of the colour of the brightest
of the seedling scarlet geraniums, and while endeavouring to obtain a
view to the eastward, my eye fell upon something of a beautiful white,
which proved to be a lovely orchid. Of these Mr. Low made a great
collection; I fear, however, it is not a new one.
The following is the botanical description of the _Nepenthes
Edwardsiana_:--
“_Ascidia magna, ore lamellis latis disciformibus annularibus remotis
instructo._
“Nepenthes Edwardsiana, Low. MSS.--Foliis (6″ longis) crasse coriaceis
longe petiolatis ellipticis, ascidiis magnis crasse pedunculatis
cylindraceis basi ventricosis 8–18″ longis, ore lamellis annularibus
distantibus rigidis magnis cristato, collo elongato erecto,
operculo cordato-rotundato, racemo simplici, rachi pedicellisque
ferrugineo-tomentosis. (_Tab._ LXX.)
“_Hab._--Kina Balu, north side; alt, 6,000–8,000 feet (_Low_).
“The leaves, ascidia, and pitchers sent by Mr. Low are all old, and
nearly glabrous; but the young parts--rachis, peduncles of the panicle,
and the calyx--are covered with ferruginous tomentum. One of the
pitchers sent is eighteen inches long from the base to the apex of the
erect operculum; it is two and a half inches in diameter below the
mouth, one and a half at the narrowest part (about one-third distant
from the base), and the swollen part above the base is about two inches
in diameter. The beautiful annular discs which surround the mouth are
three-quarters of an inch in diameter.”[19]
We had occasionally very extensive prospects, and the day being bright
and sunny, could obtain almost an uninterrupted view of the whole
coast from Kimanis to Tampasuk, with glimpses of the river reaches
below, winding among the hills, and flowing through the open plains of
Tampasuk, Sulaman, and Tawaran, and beneath our feet were the sources
of the Peñgantaran, which we crossed on our last expedition. The only
interruption was, in fact, the double peaks of Saduk Saduk, which is
about 6,000 feet high; and as we only ascended 6,200 feet, we were
but beginning to see over them. One side of that mountain is almost
cleared to its summit for rice plantations, though the produce could
not be very repaying. Mr. Lobb reached its top, but had, I believe, no
instruments to fix its height. From the north the two peaks are in a
line, it then appears a sharp hill; and I should judge from its aspect
that it is sandstone to the summit.
We carefully examined the noble buttress on which we were encamped, and
were convinced that if ever the north of Borneo fall into the hands
of a European power, no spot could be better suited for barracks than
Marei Parei. The climate is delightful: at sunrise the average was 56°;
midday, 75°; sunset, 63°; and this temperature would keep European
soldiers in good health: there is water at hand, and up the western
spur a road could be easily made suited to cattle and horses; in fact,
buffaloes are now occasionally driven from Labang Labang to Sayap.
The second day our men were more amenable to advice, and made great
preparations to resist the cold, as the wind was rising and rain
threatening; but after a heavy shower, it cleared off, and we passed
a very pleasant night. We found the most sustaining and warming
nourishment on the mountains, was to boil or stew a couple of fowls,
with a two-pound tin of preserved soup. As we scarcely ever rested much
during the day our appetites were keen, and we retired to our beds very
shortly after seven to enjoy an almost uninterrupted sleep from eight
till daylight.
Having finished collecting the plants of this spur, we returned to
Kiau, and noticed during our walk that the sources of the Hobang and
Pinokok cut very deep valleys into the actual mountain, and after the
heavy rain last night, foaming cascades were visible in these as yet
unlit valleys, for the morning sun had not risen above the mountain
tops.
The villagers appeared to be very glad to get us back among them, and
the girls became friendly and familiar; they even approached us and
sat at the end of our mats, and talked, and laughed, and addressed us
little speeches, which were, of course, nearly unintelligible, though
we were making progress in the language. They had evidently been very
much interested in all our movements; and as our toilettes were made in
public, they could observe that every morning we bathed, cleaned our
teeth, brushed and combed our hair, and went through our other ordinary
occupations.
To-day they had grown more bold, and were evidently making fun of the
scrupulous care we were bestowing on our persons while the cook was
preparing our breakfast. We thought that we would good-humouredly turn
the laugh against them, so we selected one who had the dirtiest face
among them--and it was difficult to select where all were dirty--and
asked her to glance at herself in the looking-glass. She did so, and
then passed it round to the others; we then asked them which they
thought looked best, cleanliness or dirt: this was received with a
universal giggle.
We had brought with us several dozen cheap looking-glasses, so we told
Iseiom, the daughter of Li Moung, our host, that if she would go and
wash her face we would give her one. She treated the offer with scorn,
tossed her head, and went into her father’s room. But, about half an
hour afterwards, we saw her come in to the house and try to mix quietly
with the crowd; but it was of no use, her companions soon noticed she
had a clean face, and pushed her into the front to be inspected. She
blushingly received her looking-glass and ran away, amid the laughter
of the crowd of girls. The example had a great effect, however, and
before evening the following girls had received a looking-glass. I
mention their names as specimens:--Ikara, Beiom, Sugan, Rambeiong,
Iduñgat, Tirandam, Idoñg, Sei, and Sinéo. Among the males near were
Kadsio, the trouser-maker, Bintarang, Lakaman, and Banul, who had lent
his kitchen to us.
We spent a couple of days quietly at the village, waiting the arrival
of our party: reports often reached us that they were not far off, and
at last they came in, but sadly reduced in numbers. Seven had deserted,
while one had stayed behind to look after his companion Sahat, who had
been stricken with cholera while passing through Si Nilau. However,
they brought sufficient rice to last us during the ascent of the
mountain, as well as a few condiments for ourselves. We heard, also,
to our satisfaction that the chief of Gantisan had seized Kamis the
negro, and had confined him for theft and desertion.
All our preparations being completed, we started for our expedition
to the summit of the mountain, following a path along the side of
the valley, which ran below the houses, and was crossed by miniature
torrents at various places. The ground was all under cultivation,
principally tobacco and kiladis. Being in admirable walking condition
from our regular exercise, we soon passed the hut where Mr. Low
had rested during my former ascent, and crossing the stream, found
ourselves in freshly-cleared ground, where crowds of women and
children were planting rice. The ashes from the burning of the trees
and brushwood must assist greatly to fertilize the soil, otherwise we
could scarcely conceive that seed placed in a little hole driven in the
hard-baked ground could produce a crop. It was a burning-hot day, and
our men appeared to suffer severely in passing along this unsheltered
path, so it was a relief to enter the forest.
We advanced by the same way I followed on the previous occasion; it was
steep, and but rarely traversed, except by the rat snarers. The farther
we advanced, the more numerous were the traps, but during our ascent
none were caught. In fact, these wary animals are seldom taken, except
when trying to escape from the active village curs. We heard the shouts
of the hunters below, and the bark of the dogs, but we had passed
on before they reached the path. The mountain-rat seems a favourite
article of food among the Kiaus, though they do not eat those which
frequent the houses. The edible animal is about the size of the grey
Norway rat, and is of the Bandacoot species.
At 4,400 feet elevation we pitched our tents; and here Li Moung and Li
Maing, who had accompanied us so far, handed us over to the younger
men, headed by Kamá, and returned home. We hired both these leaders, as
we were unwilling to be the cause of a feud arising in the tribe, and
by following this course we kept friends with both parties.
We started early next morning, and after three hours climbing of the
sub-spurs, which were occasionally very steep, we reached the ridge of
the great buttress, and the walking became easier. We passed to-day the
hut that I had constructed on the former occasion. As I have before
observed, this ridge is occasionally very narrow, and where it has been
exposed to the full force of the monsoons, the trees bent over us, so
as often to necessitate our crawling beneath their overhanging trunks;
for those who carried burdens it was tiresome work, particularly as
the ground and trees were covered with soppy moss, cold and unpleasant
to the touch. Where we did not crawl, we had often to advance in a
stooping posture. Occasionally we passed between fine forest trees,
with thickly-growing bamboo beneath them, but these were only to be
found in deep or sheltered spots. When we joined the first ridge, we
came upon numerous flowers of a rhododendron scattered over the surface
of the ground, and it was some time before we could find the plant, but
Mr. Low’s quick eye at last discovered it. It looked gorgeous, being
completely covered with bunches of flowers of a brilliant scarlet, and
in masses of colour, as forty-two blossoms were counted growing in one
of the bunches.
We at last reached a narrow, rocky ridge, covered with brushwood,
but with thousands of plants of the beautiful _Nepenthes Lowii_
growing among them. As water was to be had near, at a little marshy
spot, we determined to pitch our tents here, and spend the evening
collecting specimens. Our guides, however, strongly objected to this,
and declared we must reach the cave to-night; but as this involved
a climb of nearly 3,000 feet more, we declined, disregarding their
threats that they would leave us where we were and return to their
houses. Our coast men appeared totally unfit for such an exertion,
though the cold weather had an invigorating effect upon ourselves.
There was another great objection to this rapid ascent: it prevented
our seeing anything, or enjoying the views that this lovely weather
promised to afford. It was true that day the scenery had been obscured
by the blinding columns of smoke rising in every direction from the
burning felled forest, but that objection might not hold another day.
To the eastward, we had glimpses of high mountains, and of a river
running through a plain.
I have seldom witnessed any of those beautiful phenomena of which I
have read--as double sunsets--but that evening we witnessed one. A
dark cloud hung over the horizon, and beneath it we saw a sun, clear
and well-defined, set in vapour: we hurried on our preparations for
the night, for fear darkness should overtake us, when the true sun,
suddenly bursting from behind the concealing cloud, restored the day.
I never saw men so astonished as were our followers, and we were as
completely deceived as they were, though we did not give the same
explanation, that we had fallen among jinn and other supernatural
creatures.
We sent our men on next morning to wait for us at the cave, while we
stayed behind to collect specimens of the _Nepenthes Lowii_ and
the _Nepenthes Villosa_. The former is, in my opinion, the most
lovely of them all, and its shape is most elegant. I will give Dr.
Hooker’s botanical description of both.
“_Ascidia magna, curva, basi inflata, medio constricta, dein
ampliata, infundibuliformia; ore maximo, latissimo, annulo O._
“Nepenthes Lowii, H. f.--Caule robusto tereti, foliis crasse coriaceis,
longe crasse petiolatis lineari-oblongis, ascidiis magnis curvis basi
ventricosis medio valde constrictis, ore maximo ampliato, annulo O,
operculo oblongo intus dense longe setoso. (_Tab._ LXXI.)
“_Hab._--Kina Balu; alt. 6,000–8,000 feet (_Low_).
“A noble species, with very remarkable pitchers, quite unlike those
of any other species. They are curved, 4–10 inches long, swollen at
the base, then much constricted, and suddenly dilating to a broad,
wide, open mouth with glossy shelving inner walls, and a minute row
of low tubercles round the circumference; they are of a bright pea
green, mottled inside with purple. The leaves closely resemble those of
_Edwardsiana_ and _Boschiana_ in size, form, and texture, but
are more linear-oblong.
[Illustration:
Day & Son, Lith. to the Queen.
NEPENTHES LOWII. _H. f._
Published by Smith, Elder & C^o. 65, Cornhill, London.]
[Illustration:
Day & Son, Lith. to the Queen.
NEPENTHES VILLOSA. _H. f._
Published by Smith, Elder & C^o. 65, Cornhill, London.]
“I have specimens of what are sent as the male flower and fruit,
but not being attached, I have not ventured to describe them as
such. The male raceme is eight inches long, dense flowered.
Peduncles simple. Perianth with depressed glands on the inner surface,
externally rufous and pubescent. Column long and slender. _Female_
inflorescence: a very dense oblong panicle; rachis, peduncles,
perianth, and fruit covered with rusty tomentum. Capsules, two-thirds
of an inch long, one-sixth of an inch broad.”[20]
The outside colour of the pitchers is a bright pea-green, the
inside dark mahogany; the lid is green, while the glandular are
mahogany-coloured. A very elegant claret jug might be made of this
shape.
“_Ascidia magna, ore lamellis latis disciformibus annularibus remotis
instructo._
“Nepenthes Villosa, H. f. (Hook, Ic. Pl. t. 888).--Ascidia magna
turgida late pyriformia coriacea, 5″ longa, 3½″ lata, alis anticis
mediocribus grosse dentatis, ore aperto annulo maximo! lamellis
annularibus distantibus disciformibus rigidis, 1″ diam., cristatis
posticis in spinas rigidas ½″ longas, fundum ascidii spectantibus
productis, collo elongato erecto, operculo orbiculato intus densissime
glanduloso dorso basi longe cornuto. (_Tab._ LXIX.)
“_Hab._--Borneo (_Lobb_), Kina Balu, alt. 8,000–9,000 feet
(_Low_).
“... The whole inner surface of the pitcher is glandular, except a very
narrow area beneath the mouth at the back.”[20]
The pitchers of the young plant resemble the old, and their colour
looks like that of a downy peach skin, with a great deal of dark
crimson in it. The circular annulus is like flesh-coloured wax, its
lid dull green, with red shading in the centre.
The _Nepenthes Villosa_ continued to skirt our path for the next
two thousand feet; and among the most extraordinary shrubs was the
heath rhododendron.
At an open space about 7,500 feet above the level of the sea, we had a
fine view of the south and south-east part of Borneo, which stretches
away to the great river of Kina Batañgan. Numerous mountain ranges
and lofty peaks, some estimated as high as 7,000 to 8,000 feet, were
clearly visible. Between us and the mountains bearing south-east by
east, and apparently eighteen miles off, there was a grassy plain,
perhaps three miles by two, in which were many villages; and through
this there flowed a rather large river. We could trace its course as
far as the third spur that springs from the main buttress of Kina Balu,
on which we now stood. There, a line of hills appeared to obstruct
it; but beyond we could again trace the course of a stream which may
probably be its source. This river, our guide stated, fell into the
lake of Kina Balu. It runs from south-west to north-east. With the
exception of the plain above mentioned, and a marsh, whose commencement
we could observe north-east of the plain, all the country appeared
hilly. Most of the land was cleared, and either under cultivation, or
showing the remains of former farms. We could observe in the second
valley two villages: the first called Tuhan; the next, Inserban. At
both cotton is stated to be cultivated. Many more distant villages and
detached houses could be seen to the south-east, whose names our guides
had forgotten.
The road to the lake is by the above-mentioned villages. The names of
those beyond are Penusuk, Tambian, Paka, and Koporiñgan. These are
either on the route, or close to the lake.
We sat looking at this extensive view, and enjoying the refreshing
breeze and the bright sun. Kamá was in a communicative mood to-day,
and we had a long talk about the great lake. We could clearly perceive
that it was not in the position assigned to it in all the maps, as the
whole country from east-south-east to the western coast was distinctly
visible, and the Ida’an expressly stated that it was farther to the
north and east of the little plain I have before noticed. Its size
would, I believe, entirely depend on the season it was visited, as the
heavy rains would cause it to overflow the country, and probably add
the marsh and plain we saw to its extent, and the native travellers
would naturally give different accounts.
We now continued our ascent to the cave by the same path I followed
before, and found it quite sufficient for a day’s journey. The cave
proved to be above 9,000 feet above the level of the sea; and although
we tried by fires and hanging up oiled cloths before the entrance to
keep out the raw night air, yet the men felt it very cold.
We started early next morning for the summit, with a clear sky and
a brilliant sun, through thickets of the scarlet and rosy-purple
rhododendrons which extended for nearly a thousand feet above the cave,
and soon reached the granite slopes, which, by the clinometer, we found
to have an angle varying from 35° to 39° at the steepest parts. Leaving
Low’s Gully on the right, where the purple or rather blood-coloured
rhododendron flourishes, we pushed on for the terrace lying between the
southern and northern peaks.
As I spent very little of my time in looking for plants, I reached it
some time before my fellow-traveller, and was surprised to find the
great ease with which we could converse, although more than a quarter
of a mile apart. It really required no effort, and the air appeared
so transparent as to render it difficult to judge of distances. From
Low’s Gully to the north-western peak does not exceed two miles; and
we were struck by a remarkable feature in the granite rocks, which run
in a broken line along the northern face of the summit. It appeared as
if they were lying in strata, which partly accounts for the angular
granite we observed in the streams below.
When I first reached the terrace the sun was shining brightly on the
landscape below, and my first impulse was to turn to look for that
lofty mountain of which I had obtained a glimpse during my former
ascent, but the southern peak shut in that view, and I had to content
myself with the still extensive prospect. Looking over the valley of
Pinokok, I could distinctly trace the coast line down even to Labuan,
which, though somewhat hazy, was yet visible, near the great mountains
of Brayong and Si Guntang. The Bay of Kimanis was to be seen in all its
distinctness, and, with Nosong Point, Pulo Tiga, and Papar Headland,
looked at this distance almost land-locked. Gaya island was there
visible, but the bay was shut in by its surrounding hills. Mengkabong
and Sulaman waters showed clear, and I could occasionally observe
some reaches of the Tawaran glistening among the fruit groves of
the plain. The horizon was perhaps distant a hundred miles, showing
a broad expanse of ocean. We stood looking at this prospect with
great pleasure; but at last, being joined by the man who carried the
barometer, I left Mr. Low to prepare the instrument, and started for
the north-western peak, from which I hoped to have the most extensive
view to be seen in all Borneo, and to have the satisfaction of
examining that heap of stones which looked like a cairn from below.
It was easy to get to its base. On the northern side of it were heaps
of broken but angular granite, which appeared to have fallen from
its sides, leaving a perpendicular face, a little overhanging at the
summit. The slabs of granite, which peel off its western and southern
sides, roll on a sharp slope, and must glide down to fall over the
great precipice overlooking the valley of Pinokok. The heaps I observed
to the south move more slowly onward towards the cliff, as the incline
is less.
I tried to reach the summit of this peak by a narrow edge of rock
abutting from its southern front; but after following it with my face
towards it, and moving sideways with my arms stretched out on either
side, till it narrowed to about eight inches, I thought it prudent to
return; but at a spot where I had secure footing, I pitched a stone
on the summit, which was about forty feet above the highest point I
reached.
I had scarcely regained the base, when I saw a thick white cloud
suddenly sweep up from the north, and heavy rain and gusts of wind soon
wetted us through and chilled us to the bone. I hurried along the huge
natural wall which skirts the northern edge of the summit, and is the
termination of the great terrace, to join Mr. Low, and then heard that
last night’s rain had wet the leather of Adie’s barometer, and it would
not act. We tried the boiling-water thermometers, but in this storm
of wind, rain, and hail, though we managed to light the spirit-lamp,
we could not read the number of degrees, the apparatus appearing
defective. We waited for nearly two hours, hoping it would blow over;
but it only increased in violence, and enveloped in this rain-cloud, we
could not see fifty yards.
Unwillingly we now attended to the remonstrances of our shivering
followers, and commenced descending. The wind veered round suddenly to
the east, and drove the sleet and hail into our faces, while torrents
formed in every direction, and rushed over the smooth surface of the
granite. To descend was a work of danger, as the streams of water
crossed our path in every direction; and had we lost our footing while
passing them, we should have been sent gliding down to the precipices.
It was bitterly cold, the thermometer at two P.M. falling to
43°. As we approached the steeper incline, the velocity of the running
water increased, and in one place, even Kamá appeared at fault, as the
granite was as slippery as glass, being reduced to a fine polish, as it
formed the course down which the rains always ran; but at last finding
a crevice, into which we could insert the sides of our feet, we managed
to pass the momentarily swelling torrent. One of our Malays was seized
with fever and ague at this most difficult part of the descent; but he
behaved manfully, and managed, by his own exertions, to get down the
granite slopes. My Chinese boy, Ahtan, fell, and rolled over several
times, but escaped with a slight wound, but heavy bruises. One Malay’s
feet slipped from under him, and he fell heavily on his back, but his
head escaped, as he was carrying on his shoulders a large basket full
of flowers.
During both ascents, I observed the men carefully examining the
crevices of the granite in search of little pieces of very transparent
quartz, which were to be found there. I picked up, during the former
trip, a little of them, that were greatly prized by the ladies of the
capital, who had them inserted into rings.
After three hours’ hard work, we reached the cave, in company with our
invalids. The poor fever-stricken Malay looked in a woful plight, but
we gave him immediately ten grains of quinine in a glass of whiskey,
and by evening the fit was over. We found many of our men were injured
by falls, but not seriously. Though Mr. Low made a fine collection of
herbaceous and other plants, yet we were greatly disappointed with the
result of our ascent, as the injury to the barometer was caused by our
own carelessness.
We determined, however, to reascend to the summit next morning; but on
trying the boiling-water thermometers, they did not act properly, and
varied five degrees: the barometer also continued useless. We therefore
gave up our intention, particularly when we found that all the Ida’an
guides were making up their packets, declaring nothing should induce
them to go through such exposure as they suffered yesterday, and as we
found many of our men were ailing, we unwillingly, therefore, commenced
our descent, collecting plants by the way, and spent the night at the
hut I had erected during my first expedition.
Next day we reached the village of Kiau, and had a very different kind
of settling day from the last. Lemoung was civil and obliging, and
all appeared sorry at our leaving them, and begged us to return again
as soon as possible, promising to take us to the lake, or wherever we
might choose to go.
The girls now presented a very different appearance from before: they
thronged round us, most of them with carefully-washed faces, and
requested us to remember their commissions. Some wanted thread and
needles, others looking-glasses and combs. As we did not intend to
reascend the mountain, we, in return for the neat little baskets of
tobacco with which they presented us, made a distribution among them
of all our surplus warm clothing, and their delight was great; and
Lemoung’s daughter took so great a fancy to my comb and brush that,
though unwilling, I was obliged to part with them.
When we started next morning, crowds of friendly faces were around, and
a troop of girls walked with us part of the way; and on our leaving
them at the crown of the hill, they insisted upon our repeating the
promise to visit them again. The good impression we made upon these
villagers may be of service to future travellers. We stopped at Koung
for the night, as many of our followers were ill, or suffering from
falls received on that unlucky day on the summit of Kina Balu. We made
the old chief’s heart glad by presenting him with one of our tents,
and such goods as we could spare.
A hundred years ago, it was reported that the Ida’an were in the habit
of purchasing Christian slaves of the pirates, in order to put them to
death for the sake of the heads. If it were ever true, I believe it is
not so now, as we never noticed dried skulls in any of their houses,
except at Tamparuli; and if they had been given to any such practice,
the Bajus, who never missed an opportunity to malign them, would have
mentioned the subject to us.
As we were anxious to get our large collection of plants as fast as
possible to the vessel, we pushed on next morning by the direct route
to Buñgol and breakfasted there, and, notwithstanding heavy rain,
continued our journey to Kalawat.
Next day we reached Si Nilau, to find that poor Sahat was dead of
cholera, and that his companion had disappeared. We inquired about him,
but could hear nothing. We asked for the rice that they had left here,
but the owner of the house denied having any; though one of our guides
discovered hidden away in a corner all the goods belonging to Sahat
and the missing man. The thief finding himself discovered, ran into a
neighbouring house and began to beat the alarm signal on a drum, and in
a very short time the neighbouring villagers were seen collecting in
arms; but hearing the cause of the disturbance they dispersed, saying
the English might settle with the old thief as they pleased. However,
on inquiry, finding our missing follower was safe, we merely warned the
villager and continued our journey.
On arriving at Bawang we heard the distressing intelligence that
cholera was in possession of all the villages. We met processions on
the river: old women, dressed up like the priestesses among the Land
Dayaks of Sarawak, were chanting and beating gongs, and on the banks of
the stream were erected altars, round which gaily-dressed women were
dancing with a slow, measured step.
We were surprised at the wealth displayed by the family of the old Datu
of Tamparuli. There were silks, and gold brocade, and a large amount
of gold ornaments. We arrived late, having walked in one day what had
taken us three in our advance to the mountain.
During the night we were disturbed by the cries of some of the inmates
of our house, three of whom where suffering from attacks of cholera,
and the only remedy they appeared to apply was water from the sacred
jars, though they endeavoured to drive away the evil spirits by beating
gongs and drums all night. Three people had died the previous day, but
when we left in the morning the sufferers I have before mentioned were
still alive. We had no medicines, not even a glass of spirits, to give
them.
Next morning we walked over to Pañgeran Sirail’s to breakfast, as our
friends at Tamparuli were so much taken up with the awful visitation
which had come upon them as to be unable to attend to anything else.
In fact, though exceedingly hungry after our hard walking, we could
not last night purchase anything for our dinner, and had to content
ourselves with plain boiled rice. The Malay chief, however, was very
hospitable, and soon procured us fowls, and sent off to Pañgeran Duroup
for canoes to take us across the lake. On our arrival at Gantisan we
found the cholera had left it, though not before it had carried off
thirty-seven victims.
Signor Cuarteron came to visit us, and we kept him to dinner; but, in
the evening, the south-west monsoon commenced blowing so heavily, that
it was impossible for him to return to the vessel, and this was merely
a commencement of what we had to expect. In the morning, however, it
cleared up a little, and we landed to visit Pañgeran Madoud. He was
erecting a very substantial-looking wharf, nearly a hundred yards in
length, to enable people to get ashore at all times of tide, and he
intended it partly to give protection to very small trading prahus
during the south-west monsoon. It was a grand work for a Malay to
conceive, and, although not constructed in a way likely to be very
lasting, it was a good commencement. The Pañgeran had established
himself in a very comfortable house, and in his audience hall had a
large table and many chairs. He was very curious to hear everything
connected with the great mountain, and begged, laughingly, for a single
seed of the lagundi fruit, that his youth might be restored to him. We
found Kamis, the negro, looking very sad in the stocks, but he got off
with a very slight punishment; but, as a warning to others, we refused
to receive the deserters on board, and let them return in a native
prahu.
We did not attempt to sail, as heavy clouds were driving across the
horizon, promising unsettled weather; and, in the afternoon, so heavy
a squall arose, that our anchor could not hold, and we began drifting
towards the shore. We hauled in the chain, but when it was nearly all
on board, we were not ten feet from the coral reefs opposite Gantisan.
With extreme difficulty, on account of the breaking waves, we got the
smaller anchor into our boat, and sent it out fifty yards ahead, and
hauling in that merely saved us from striking, as it came home as
well as the larger one. For two hours we continued sending out one
anchor after the other, but it did not keep us clear of the danger, as
during one heavy puff our pinnace struck the coral, and we thought she
would soon go to pieces; but this blast was followed by a momentary
lull, during which we managed to haul out a hundred yards, and let
go both anchors; and, veering out as much chain as we could, we felt
comparatively safe. The storm broke on us again with great violence,
but our anchors held.
For three days this dirty weather continued, blowing steadily from
the south-west, and we had some difficulty in procuring supplies of
rice for our men. In fact, the village had but little in store, as all
communication with the Dusuns had been put a stop to on account of the
cholera. It was, therefore, fortunate we had not delayed our expedition
till August, for we certainly would have been turned back, as all the
paths were now pamali or interdicted.
On the fifth day, the wind appearing to moderate, we set sail from
Gantisan, intending to pass through the broad channel, between Gaya and
Sapanggar Islands; but, when we opened the sea, the waves were breaking
in white foam, and so heavy a swell came in that our pinnace could not
beat against the wind: we, therefore, ran into a small harbour on the
north of Gaya Island, and anchored in thirteen fathoms. In the evening
we landed, but, finding the jungle tangled, did not penetrate far; and,
leaving Mr. Low to botanize, I strolled along the beach to the rocky
sandstone point.
I came there upon certain stones which appeared to me very curious.
On the surface of some were marks, as if huge cups, three feet in
diameter, were let into the rock and then filled up with a different
kind of sandstone. One only did I see which was detached from the
surrounding rock; it was round, with an edge two inches thick, raised
three inches above the inner surface.
This little harbour is plentifully supplied with water, as several
small rivulets fall into it from the surrounding high land. We could
observe the waves breaking on the sands and rocks at the mouth of the
Ananam, as the wind drove the sea through the narrow and dangerous
passage between Gaya Island and the mainland. At night very heavy rain
came on, and the wind moderated.
In the morning, though there was a heavy swell, the wind was moderate,
and many fishing-boats were seen scattered over the surface of the
bay. We hailed one, and the fishermen coming alongside with a large
number for sale, we purchased all he had. Among them were several fish
which frequent the coral rocks; one was small, slightly streaked with
red, with very prickly fins, which the natives are careful to chop off
before attempting to handle them, as, if wounded by one, the effect
is as if poison had been injected into the flesh. There are also many
others, whose fins are equally to be avoided.
Some of the fish brought alongside were as beautiful as those
celebrated in the Arabian tale, where “the fisherman, looking into the
lake, saw in it fish of different colours--white, and red, and blue,
and yellow;” indeed, they could not have been more beautiful than
ours. In fact, all that are caught on coral reefs are remarkable for
the great variety of their colours; but I must particularly describe
one which bore the palm from all its splendid companions. It was
about ten inches in length, and had for the basis of its colours an
emerald green, with a head of a lighter shade of the same hue, which
was banded longitudinally with stripes of rosy pink, and lines of the
same beautiful tint were placed at intervals of an eighth of an inch
transversely across its whole body, the scales on which were very
small. The two pectoral fins were rosy pink in the centre, surrounded
by a broad band of ultramarine. The short dorsal and ventral fins,
which were continued to the tail, were of the same colours, the pink
being inside. The tail was ultramarine outside, and the centre part
of the fin of gamboge yellow: it had no anal fins. There was another
extremely beautiful one of a pea-green colour: it appeared to be of the
same genus as the former.
The one streaked with red, with the poisonous fins, had firm flesh,
and was rather pleasant to the taste; but in general their flavour and
quality by no means equalled the brilliancy of their appearance. We
placed the lovely emerald fish in a bucket of sea-water, but it soon
turned on its back, and showed unmistakable signs of exhaustion. It
seemed a sin to dine off so beautiful a creature. However, I suffered
for it during the evening: I thought I was seized with cholera, and
could scarcely get rid of the pains in the stomach; but Mr. Low did not
feel any ill effects, so the fish may be harmless.
Next morning, there being a slight land breeze at early dawn, we stood
out to sea, notwithstanding the heavy swell, as the leaves of our
mountain collection were beginning to fade from their long confinement
on board, though we had brought proper boxes in which to plant them.
We soon got clear of the harbour; but no sooner did we begin to shape
our course down the coast, and get to the leeward of Gaya Island, than
the breeze failed us, and the roll of the China seas appeared to be
forcing us on the rocky point not half a mile off. We manned our boat,
and attempted to tow the pinnace off shore, but our efforts would have
been in vain had not the ebb tide gradually swept us beyond the island,
and thus restored to us the faint land breeze. Presently it died away,
but we were now beyond immediate danger; and though the heavy swell
continued, there were no waves. As the sun was warm and brilliant, we
felt sure that in the afternoon we should have a fine sea breeze; so
that we were proportionably annoyed when our head man came to tell us
they had forgotten to replenish their casks at Gaya Island, and were
now without water. We sent the boat away, as it was impossible to
foretell how many days we might be at sea; but before they returned,
heavy clouds began to show on the western horizon, threatening bad
weather.
I never saw a more singular sight, as the long line of black cloud
gradually gathered above the sea, leaving a clear space below it,
and waterspouts began to form. I counted at one time seventeen,
either perfect or commencing. I carefully watched the whole process:
the cloud appears to dip a little, and the sea below is agitated and
covered with foam; gradually a pillar begins to descend from on high
with a gyrating motion, and a corresponding pillar rises from the sea.
Sometimes they meet, and the whole object is completed; at others, they
do not, and the water falls back into the ocean with great disturbance.
I have watched them trying again and again to meet: sometimes the wind
drives the cloud-pillar to an acute angle, and prevents the junction;
at others, vain efforts, as vainly repeated, are made by sea and
cloud. I have heard so many stories of danger to ships from these
waterspouts that I always felt rather nervous when passing them in a
very small vessel. Our boat being still away, we took advantage of the
commencement of the sea breeze to run under one of the islets to the
south of Gaya and anchor there. Between the larger island and the point
of Api Api on the mainland I once attempted to pass, but we grounded on
a coral reef; however, there is a passage, but a difficult one to those
accustomed to the coast.
I am not aware who inserted the names in the Admiralty charts, but
they are often ill spelt, and incorrectly placed. Loney Island, south
of Gaya, is generally called Sinitahan, “Hold here,” Island, from the
great protection it affords to native prahus in both monsoons; and our
informants insisted that the islands marked Bantok, Baral, and Risa,
should be Memanukan, Sulug, and Memutik, and that the opposite point,
called Lutut, or the Knee, should be Aru. I only mention this, as some
of the officers in Labuan might be requested to furnish the correct
names to the Admiralty, as it is exceedingly inconvenient to voyagers
along the coast to ask for places by names which are not recognized by
the inhabitants. While speaking of these otherwise admirably correct
charts, I would draw attention to the fact, that the position of
Tanjong Baram, or Baram Point, in the last published general chart of
Borneo, differs about ten miles from that given in the charts recording
the surveys of Sir Edward Belcher and Commander Gordon. This requires
explanation.
Our boat having joined us, we got under way, and stood towards Pulo
Tiga; the weather was squally and the night proved unpleasant, with
strong gusts of wind and heavy rain, but in the morning we found
ourselves opposite the island for which we were steering. A light land
breeze now carried us past Nosong Point, with its curious detached
rocks, but left us in a calm after we were a few miles from shore.
As usual, the sea breeze sprang up in the afternoon, but it came from
the south-west. As we had been awake most of the previous night, we
were dozing in the afternoon, when a bustle over our heads startled
us, and we went on deck to see what was the matter. We found we were
among the Pine-tree Shoals, with a large water-washed rock, not marked
in the charts, within fifty yards of us. To let go the anchor and
take in the sail, to meet a heavy squall from the westward, was the
work of a moment. A heavy squall in a dangerous position is a thing
to be remembered: you see advancing upon you an enormous arch of
black cloud, with a slightly white misty sky beneath, called by the
Malays the wind’s eye, and when it breaks upon you with a force almost
sufficient to lift you from your legs and sweep you into the sea, you
feel your own nothingness, and how impotent are most of our efforts to
contend against the elements.
That day it blew heavily, and much depended whether it were good
holding ground, but our principal fear was that another water-washed
rock might be astern, on which if our vessel bumped she must go to
pieces. The villagers from the neighbouring coast saw our danger and
thronged to the beach: but we paid little attention to them, as we
kept our eyes on two points to watch if the pinnace drifted. The sea
as far as the eye could reach was one sheet of curling waves, crested
with foam, which broke upon our bows and washed our decks; but as the
wind became stronger, we veered out cable, though cautiously, as we
were uncertain what hidden dangers there might be astern of us. It was
an anxious time, as the squall lasted two hours without abatement;
but even storms must have an end, and half an hour before sunset the
wind lessened, as it often does about that time, and we sent out our
boat to sound, and were soon able to have the pinnace towed clear
of the water-washed rock, and setting sail we stood out to sea in a
north-westerly direction to give us a good offing. We sat up by turns
all that night, and amused ourselves by watching the hundreds of stars
that fell or shot across the heavens, as is usual in the month of
August; and I saw a brilliant meteor of a bluish colour, which appeared
in the east, and flashed across the dark sky to disappear almost in a
moment. We reached Labuan by daylight the following morning.
I am sorry to say that we did not fulfil our promise to the Kiaus, to
go and explore the lake. I fully intended doing so during my last visit
to Borneo, but was prevented by my return home. I had not forgotten
their commissions, and had provided myself with a large store of
needles and thread, which were, however, equally prized by the ladies
of Brunei.
I must add a few remarks respecting the plates of the _Nepenthes_
which appear in this volume; they are copied, as I have before
observed, from the magnificent plates published in the fourth part
of the _Transactions of the Linnean Society of London_. It is
impossible to obtain a complete idea of these astonishing pitchers
from the plates I have inserted, as I have been obliged to reduce them
to the size of my work; but I the less regret this, as they have been
drawn the size of life in the _Transactions_. With regard to the
colouring, I obtained the assistance of Mr. Low, who first saw the
plants, and has studied their appearance and growth; and many of the
apparent contradictions in describing their appearance arise from the
change which takes place in their tints at different ages.