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The art of carving is an useful and elegant accomplishment; and,
according to the fashion of the present day, cannot be too well
understood by the _Heads of Families_. It may best be acquired by
observation and practice; and to _Young Ladies_ who can attend to the
example of their parents, the following plain and familiar instructions
may not be unacceptable.—A previous knowledge of the conformation of
the several parts, and the peculiar nature of the article to be carved,
will, with due attention, render the business easy, and it would be
still more so, if the loins, breasts, and necks of mutton, lamb, and
veal, were to be _properly jointed_ and divided, before they are sent
home.
The master and mistress of the family, who do _The honours of the
table_, when dinner is announced, will see, of course, that the upper
places are taken by the married ladies of the highest quality that are
then present; the dowagers or widows next, and lastly, the unmarried
ladies; all, nearly according to their respective ages. The gentlemen
will be seated according to the same etiquette, which is perfectly
understood by the fashionable world.[11]
BEEF.—_The Surloin._ This joint is brought to table with the skin side
upwards—Cut off the outside, in the direction of the ribs, quite down
to the bone, and take off slice after slice of a moderate thickness, in
the same direction.—Or, you may cut through the middle of the sirloin.
Give a little of the soft fat with each slice, which will be found
covering the roll, on the inside. Give also, a little of the roll,
when preferred, as it is short-grained and tender. To get at this and
the fat, turn the joint up, upon the chine-bone, and cut it across the
ribs.
_The Ribs_ are to be carved exactly in the same way.
_The Edge-bone_ or _isch (hip)_ bone. Cut off a _thick_ outside slice
from the upper surface, the whole length, horizontally, and follow the
cut. The delicious soft fat, resembling marrow, will be found at the
back of the bone, and the hard fat may be taken, in thin, horizontal
slices, from the edge of the joint. The upper part of this joint is the
richest and best.
_The Buttock_ is to be carved in the same way.
_The Breast-cut._—Cut off thin slices, either parallel with the ribs,
or across. The fat on the upper side is firm and gristly, that on the
under side soft, and more delicate; therefore offer that which is best
liked.
VEAL.—_The Fillet._ This is the joint similar to a round of beef.
Cut off a slice from the upper surface, evenly, as from a round or
edge-bone of beef, and this outside is often preferred. The next slices
should be cut thin and smoothly. With every slice give a little fat,
and some of the stuffing, which lies under the flap.
_The Breast._ Separate the ribs from the brisket, across, where the
bones are broken, and again, the gristly part of the breast-cut from
the ribs, in the same direction. Give some of the gristly part, with a
bone of the ribs or neck, and a little of the sweetbread, cut across
the middle, to each person.
_The Calf’s-head._ Every part of this joint is rich and delicious. Cut
it lengthwise, from the nose to the neck, passing the knife through
the flesh under the eye, quite to the bone, all the way. The throat
sweetbread lies in the thick part of the neck end, and delicious short
slices of it may be taken off from the lower side, crosswise, to be
given with the former. The eye is esteemed a great delicacy and may
be taken out with the point of a knife, and divided into two parts.
Some fine lean will be found under the jaw-bone, when taken off, and
the palate in the lower or under part of the head is deemed a dainty.
Both sides of the head are to be carved alike. A part of the tongue and
brains, which are usually served up in a separate dish, with egg sauce,
must be given to each person.
MUTTON.—_The Shoulder._ This joint should be sent to table with the
back upwards, and with paper twisted round the shank. When properly
roasted, it is very full of gravy, and has many nice parts. The first
cut should be made in the thin, hollow part, and several slices may be
taken thence. When that is all cut away, some fine slices may be taken
from both sides of the ridge of the blade-bone, cutting straight up
the back from the thick end towards the shank. The under side affords
several nice cuts of fat and lean intermixed, and is full of gravy.
Some prefer the jelly part near the knuckle;—the lean on the under
side of the blade-bone, is the most tender. The fat lies in the round
prominent part or flap, opposite the hollow part of the shoulder,
which is cut lengthwise and a thin bit of this should be given to each
person.—A shoulder of mutton _over_ roasted is _spoiled_.
_The Leg._ When boiled, it should be served up lying on its back; but
when roasted, with the back upwards. Cut into the hollow part a little
distant from the knuckle, through the pope’s-eye, quite to the bone,
and take out thin deep slices towards the thickest part. The back of
the leg affords some nice slices at the thick end, which must be cut
out the long way of the joint.—Slices of fat may also be taken from
the under side, or back part of the leg, in the same direction. Some
prefer the knuckle part, which, though dry, is full of jelly and very
nutricious. The cramp-bone forms a slight prominence at the back of the
leg, near the shank, and may be cut out by passing the knife round it.
As this is a heavy joint, some writing paper should be wrapped round
the shank, to enable the carver the better to turn it up, with his left
hand.
_The Haunch_, is to be carved in the same manner as venison.
_The Saddle_, is the two loins together. Cut out long thin slices
on each side of the chine-bone, from the tail to the end. If any
person like a part of the tail, it may be readily divided, the joints
being about an inch apart. Rich gravy is found in the cut along the
chine-bone, where the incision has been made.
_The Loin_ may be carved the same way; or it may be cut the other way,
in the direction of the bones.
LAMB.—_The Fore-quarter._ Separate the shoulder from the ribs or
breast, (by some called the crust or scoven,) taking care not to
leave the bones bare. Then squeeze half a lemon or Seville orange,
rub a slice of butter, and sprinkle a little pepper and salt over the
ribs, and replace the shoulder for a few moments; after which, put
the shoulder on another dish; and proceed to divide the neck from the
breast, where the bones have been previously broken; then separate the
gristly part from the breast, the whole length, and give a little of
the gristle with each bone of the breast or neck, as may be chosen.
If any part of the breast is to be put by to be eaten cold, let it be
sprinkled while hot, with chopped parsley. All parts of young lamb are
nice, but the shoulder of a fore-quarter is the least approved. It is
to be carved as mutton.
_The Hind-quarter_, is usually divided into the leg and loin, and is to
be carved as mutton. The close firm flesh about the knuckle is reckoned
the best.
PORK.—_The Leg_, whether roasted or boiled, is sent to table with the
back upwards, like a leg of mutton roasted: it is to be carved as
mutton.
A HAM may be carved three several ways; viz. The _first_ and most
common way is to cut off the hock, and then to take off thin slices,
in a circular manner, round the bone, towards the thick part and
proceed as with venison. This is the most economical way.
The _second_ way is to cut a round hole in the top of the ham with a
sharp pointed knife, and to enlarge the circle by cutting out thin
slices. This is a good way, as it keeps the meat moist, and preserves
the gravy.
The _other_ way is, to cut across, near the middle of the ham, quite
down to the bone, and then to take off thin slices each way.
TONGUE.—A tongue is to be cut _across_ towards the thickest end; slices
taken from that part, both ways, are the most tender and juicy; towards
the tip of the tongue, the meat is hardest and dryest. For the fat and
kernel, cut off a slice from the lower side of the root.
SUCKING PIG.—The head and collar is usually cut off, and the carcase
slit down the back into two equal parts; the head being also divided
and laid at each end, and the ears on each side. But if the pig be sent
up whole, before any one be helped, the shoulders and legs should be
separated from the body, and the ribs divided into two or more parts;
the shoulders may each be divided into two or more parts, also; and
nice slices may be taken from the gammon and fleshy parts. The ribs are
very delicious, but the collar and neck are most esteemed; the chaps
are also much approved by many.
VENISON.—_The Haunch._ First make a deep incision across, down to the
bone, towards the knuckle end, to let out the gravy; then turn the
broad end towards you, and take off thinnish deep slices, _lengthwise_,
from the cross cut to the end. The fat, which is the most delicious
part, lies, as in a shoulder of mutton, in the round prominent part,
which, when the broad end is towards you, will be on the left side.
Give some of this, and also some of the gravy, with each slice.
HARE.—The best and readiest way to cut up a hare, is to put the point
of the knife under the point of the shoulder, and cut all the way
down to the rump, on both sides of the back at equal distances from
the back-bone, dividing the body into three parts; the middle or back
may then be cut across the spine, into four or more pieces. These are
by far the most tender and delicate, and the fullest of gravy. The
shoulders or wings must be taken off in a circular direction, and the
legs may be easily separated from the belly. The shoulders and legs may
each be divided. The pieces of the back, and the fleshy parts of the
shoulders and legs, should be given with a spoonful of the stuffing
and gravy to those most respected. This method can only be practised
when the Hare is young. If it be old, do not endeavour to divide it
lengthwise, but put the knife between the leg and back, and give it
a turn inwards, at the joint, which you must try to hit.—A nice cut
or two may then be taken from each side of the back-bone;—then divide
the back into parts, and take off the wings, which are called the
sportsman’s pieces. When all are helped, cut off the head, and separate
the ears, close to the roots, which some may approve; then with your
knife divide the upper from the lower jaw, and laying the upper one
flat on your plate, enter the point of your knife in the centre near
the back of the skull, and divide it in two. The head and brains are
liked by some.
RABBIT.—A rabbit is to be carved as a hare in the latter way; but it
being smaller, the body may be divided into fewer parts, and the head,
the ears having been taken off, may be given, to any one who likes it.
GOOSE.—A goose, fowl, turkey, pheasant, and partridge, are to be cut
up nearly alike. First cut off the apron of the goose, and pour into
the body a glass of port wine, and the gravy, well mixed with a large
teaspoonful of ready made mustard; then turn the neck towards you,
and cut the whole breast into long slices quite down to the bone, and
take them off; turn the goose upon one side, and proceed to take off
the leg, by putting the fork through the small end of the bone, and
pressing it close to the body, which will raise the leg from the body
and shew the direction in which the knife may be passed, in order to
separate it; this may then be done by turning it back, but if it be an
old bird, it will require some strength. To take off the wing, pass
the fork into the small end of the pinion, and press it close to the
body, then enter the knife at the point of the wing, and divide the
joint (which requires some practice to hit cleverly) and separate it
from the side. Next take off the merry-thought, at the neck end, across
the body, and where it joins the body, on each side, you will find
the joint of the neck bones, then put in the knife, and pass it the
longest part of the bone, when you will lift it up and break it off
from the breast bone, to which it is attached. All parts being thus
separated from the carcase, divide the breast from the back by cutting
through the tender ribs on each side from one end to the other. Then
lay the back upwards, fix your fork under the rump, and pressing the
edge of your knife hard across the back, lift up the rump, and the
body will divide into two parts. The rump part may then be divided
into three, cutting it lengthwise through the bones on each side of
the back, and taking off the side-bones. It is not always necessary to
cut up the whole goose, at once, but as you proceed, the breast may be
distributed, the fleshy parts of the wings, when disjointed from the
pinions, and the thigh parts of the legs, (the drum sticks being taken
off), may next be given, remembering to draw out the sage and onions,
gravy, &c. from the inside, and give a spoonful on each plate. The
neck-bone and merry-thought are approved by some, and others approve
different parts of the carcase, which are very savoury.
A GREEN GOOSE must be cut up the same way; and the best parts are the
breast, and the gristle at the lower end of it.
FOWL.—Fowls, whether roasted or boiled, are to be cut up alike. The
best way is to take the bird on your plate, and sticking your fork
into the breast, upright, cut of slices, down the breast on each side,
as long as you can; then proceed to take off the legs, by passing the
knife between the legs and the body from the upper part of the thigh
towards the rump. Next take off the wings by entering your knife at
the point of the shoulder, and with your fork lift up the pinion and
drawing the wing towards you, by which means it will separate very
nicely without cutting. After this, take off the merry-thought, the
neck-bones, and all the remaining parts, as described in the goose. The
prime parts of a fowl are the wings, breast, and merry-thought: the
legs are coarse dry, and of a darker colour, except those of a chick,
which are full of gravy and most esteemed. The drum-sticks should be
cut off from the legs of the fowl at the joint, when given.
TURKEY.—A turkey is to be dissected as a fowl or goose, but it has no
merry-thought. The white meats of a Turkey are best. The gizzard is
sometimes scored in different directions, and when salted and peppered,
it is sent down to be broiled; is divided into several parts, and sent
round to the company as a _bonne bouche_.
PHEASANT.—This bird is to be carved the same way as a fowl, first
cutting off the head. The best parts of the pheasant are the breast,
wings, and merry-thought; but the leg has a higher flavour. The head is
sometimes preferred, because of the brains.
PARTRIDGE.—Partridges are to be carved as fowls.—The prime parts, as of
nearly all birds, are the white meats; viz. the wings (the tip of which
is reckoned the most delicious morsel,) the breast, and merry-thought.
PIGEONS.—Pigeons are generally divided into two parts, to do which
there are several ways; the most fashionable of which is, to cut from
the top of the leg on each side, quite through and across the body to
the breast bone.
FISH,—in general, requires but little carving.
_A Cod’s head._ The thick fleshy part on the back and shoulders, close
to the head, is most esteemed, but many parts of the jowl are very
delicious, particularly those about the jaw-bones, which consist of a
fine jelly. The tongue, palate, and firm parts about the back-bone on
the shoulders are also considered as dainties.
Take off a large piece across the shoulders, close to the head, and
quite through to the back-bone, this will lay bare the sound, which
is under the back-bone, some of which should be taken out with a
spoon, and given with every slice. Care must be taken to preserve the
beautifully fine flakes of this fish entire.
SALMON and all other fish that have a short grain, should be cut with
the slices the long way of the fish, and not across. The belly part is
the richest and most esteemed of salmon, but the head, and particularly
the jowl, afford many rich and delicate bits, which are much prized.