That there was a long period of time during which the morals of the

clergy were excessively corrupt, I think there can be no doubt. Make

every allowance for theological bias, or for irreligious bias, in the

writers and tourists in Cuba, still, the testimony from Roman Catholics

themselves is irresistible. The details, it is not worth while to

contend about. It is said that a family of children, with a recognized

relation to its female head, which the rule of celibacy prevented ever

becoming a marriage, was general with the country priesthood. A priest

who was faithful to that relation, and kept from cockfighting and

gambling, was esteemed a respectable man by the common people. Cuba

became a kind of Botany Bay for the Romish clergy. There they seem to

have been concealed from the eye of discipline. With this state of

things, there existed, naturally enough, a vast amount of practical

infidelity among the people, and especially among the men, who, it is

said, scarcely recognized religious obligations at all.

No one can observe the state of Europe now, without seeing that the

rapidity of communication by steam and electricity has tended to add to

the efficiency of the central power of the Roman Catholic Church, and to

the efficacy and extent of its discipline. Cuba has begun to feel these

effects. Whether they have yet reached the interior, or the towns

generally, I do not know; but the concurrent testimony of all classes

satisfied me that a considerable change has been effected in Havana. The

instrumentalities which that church brings to bear in such cases, are in

operation: frequent preaching, and stricter discipline of confession and

communion. The most marked result is in the number of men, and men of

character and weight, who have become earnest in the use of these means.

Much of this must be attributed, no doubt, to the Jesuits; but how long

they will be permitted to remain here, and what will be the permanent

effects of the movement, I cannot, of course, conjecture.

I do not enter into the old field of contest. "We care not," says one

side, "which be cause and which effect;--whether the people are Papists,

because they are what they are, or are as they are because they are

Papists. It is enough that the two things coexist." The other side

replies that no Protestant institutions have ever yet been tried for any

length of time, and to any large extent, with southern races, in a

tropical climate; and the question--what would be their influence, and

what the effect of surrounding causes upon them, lies altogether in the

region of conjecture, or, at best, of faith.

Of the moral habits of the clergy, as of the people, at the present

time, I am entirely unable to judge. I saw very little that indicated

the existence of any vices whatever among the people. Five minutes of a

street view of London by night, exhibits more vice, to the casual

observer, than all Havana for a year. I do not mean to say that the

social morals of the Cubans are good, or are bad; I only mean to say

that I am not a judge of the question.

The most striking indication of the want of religious control is the

disregard of the Lord's Day. All business seems to go on as usual,

unless it be in the public offices. The chain-gang works in the streets,

under public officers. House-building and mechanic trades go on

uninterrupted; and the shops are more active than ever. The churches, to

be sure, are open and well filled in the morning; and I do not refer to

amusements and recreations; I speak of public, secular labor. The Church

must be held to some responsibility for this. Granted that Sunday is not

the Sabbath. Yet, it is a day which, by the rule of the Roman Church,

the English Church in England and America, the Greek Church and other

Oriental Churches--all claiming to rest the rule on Apostolic authority,

as well as by the usage of Protestants on the continent of

Europe--whether Lutherans or Calvinists--is a day of rest from secular

labor, and especially from enforced labor. Pressing this upon an

intelligent ecclesiastic, his reply to me was that the Church could not

enforce the observance--that it must be enforced by the civil

authorities; and the civil authorities fall in with the selfishness and

gratifications of the ruling classes. And he appealed to the change

lately wrought in Paris, in these respects, as evidence of the

consistency of his Church. This is an answer, so far as concerns the

Church's direct authority; but it is an admission either of feeble moral

power, or of neglect of duty in times past. An embarrassment in the way

of more strictness as to secular labor, arises from the fact that slaves

are entitled to their time on Sundays, beyond the necessary labor of

providing for the day; and this time they may use in working out their

freedom.

Another of the difficulties the church has to contend with, arises out

of Negro slavery. The Church recognizes the unity of all races, and

allows marriage between them. The civil law of Cuba, under the

interpretations in force here, prohibits marriage between whites and

persons who have any tinge of the black blood. In consequence of this

rule, concubinage prevails, to a great extent, between whites and

mulattoes or quadroons, often with recognition of the children. If

either party to this arrangement comes under the influence of the

Church's discipline, the relation must terminate. The Church would allow

and advise marriage; but the law prohibits it--and if there should be a

separation, there may be no provision for the children. This state of

things creates no small obstacle to the influence of the Church over the

domestic relations.

SLAVERY

It is difficult to come to a satisfactory conclusion as to the number of

slaves in Cuba. The census of 1857 puts it at 375,000; but neither this

census nor that of 1853 is to be relied upon, on this point. The Cubans

are taxed for their slaves, and the government find it difficult, as I

have said, to get correct returns. No person of intelligence in Cuba,

however desirous to put the number at the lowest, has stated it to me at

less than 500,000. Many set it at 700,000. I am inclined to think that

600,000 is the nearest to the truth.

The census makes the free blacks, in 1857, 125,000. It is thought to be

200,000, by the best authorities. The whites are about 700,000. The only

point in which the census seems to agree with public opinion, is in the

proportion. Both make the proportion of blacks to be about one free

black to three slaves; and make the whites not quite equal to the entire

number of blacks, free and slave together.

To ascertain the condition of slaves in Cuba, two things are to be

considered: first, the laws, and secondly, the execution of the laws.

The written laws, there is no great difficulty in ascertaining. As to

their execution, there is room for opinion. At this point, one general

remark should be made, which I deem to be of considerable importance.

The laws relating to slavery do not emanate from the slave-holding mind;

nor are they interpreted or executed by the slave-holding class. The

slave benefits by the division of power and property between the two

rival and even hostile races of whites, the Creoles and the Spaniards.

Spain is not slave-holding, at home; and so long as the laws are made in

Spain, and the civil offices are held by Spaniards only, the slave has

at least the advantage of a conflict of interests and principles,

between the two classes that are concerned in his bondage.

The fact that one Negro in every four is free, indicates that the laws

favor emancipation. They do both favor emancipation, and favor the free

blacks after emancipation. The stranger visiting Havana will see a

regiment of one thousand free black volunteers, parading with the troops

of the line and the white volunteers, and keeping guard in the Obra Pia.

When it is remembered that the bearing arms and performing military duty

as volunteers is esteemed an honor and privilege, and is not allowed to

the whites of Creole birth, except to a few who are favored by the

government, the significance of this fact may be appreciated. The Cuban

slave-holders are more impatient under this favoring of the free blacks

than under almost any other act of the government. They see in it an

attempt, on the part of the authorities, to secure the sympathy and

coöperation of the free blacks, in case of a revolutionary movement--to

set race against race, and to make the free blacks familiar with

military duty, while the whites are growing up in ignorance of it. In

point of civil privileges, the free blacks are the equals of the whites.

In courts of law, as witnesses or parties, no difference is known; and

they have the same rights as to the holding of lands and other

property. As to their social position, I have not the means of speaking.

I should think it quite as good as it is in New England, if not better.

So far as to the position of the blacks, when free. The laws also

directly favor emancipation. Every slave has a right to go to a

magistrate and have himself valued, and on paying the valuation, to

receive his free papers. The valuation is made by three assessors, of

whom the master nominates one and the magistrate the other two. The

slave is not obliged to pay the entire valuation at once; but may pay it

in installments, of not less than fifty dollars each. These payments are

not made as mere advances of money, on the security of the master's

receipt, but are part purchases. Each payment makes the slave an owner

of such a portion of himself, _pro parte indivisa_, or as the common law

would say, in tenancy-in-common, with his master. If the valuation be

one thousand dollars, and he pays one hundred dollars, he is owned,

one-tenth by himself and nine-tenths by his master. It has been said, in

nearly all the American books on Cuba, that, on paying a share, he

becomes entitled to a corresponding share of his time and labor; but,

from the best information I can get, I think this is a mistake. The

payment affects the proprietary title, but not the usufruct. Until all

is paid, the master's dominion over the slave is not reduced, as

respects either discipline, or labor, or right of transfer; but if the

slave is sold, or goes by operation of law to heirs or legatees or

creditors, they take only the interest not paid for, subject to the

right of future payment under the valuation.

There is another provision, which, at first sight, may not appear very

important, but which is, I am inclined to think, the best practical

protection the slave has against ill-treatment by his master: that is,

the right to a compulsory sale. A slave may, on the same process of

valuation compel his master to transfer him to any person who will pay

the money. For this purpose, he need establish no cause of complaint. It

is enough if he desires to be transferred, and some one is willing to

buy him. This operates as a check upon the master, and an inducement to

him to remove special causes of dissatisfaction; and it enables the

better class of slave-holders in a neighborhood, if cases of ill-usage

are known, to relieve the slave, without contention or pecuniary loss.

In making the valuation, whether for emancipation or compulsory

transfer, the slave is to be estimated at his value as a common laborer,

according to his strength, age, and health. If he knows an art or trade,

however much that may add to his value, only one hundred dollars can be

added to the estimate for this trade or art. Thus the skill, industry

and character of the slave, do not furnish an obstacle to his

emancipation or transfer. On the contrary, all that his trade or art

adds to his value, above one hundred dollars, is, in fact, a capital for

his benefit.

There are other provisions for the relief of the slave, which, although

they may make even a better show on paper, are of less practical value.

On complaint and proof of cruel treatment, the law will dissolve the

relation between master and slave. No slave can be flogged with more

than twenty-five lashes, by the master's authority. If his offence is

thought greater than that punishment will suffice for, the public

authorities must be called in. A slave mother may buy the freedom of her

infant, for twenty-five dollars. If slaves have been married by the

Church, they cannot be separated against their will; and the mother has

the right to keep her nursing child. Each slave is entitled to his time

on Sundays and all other holidays, beyond two hours allowed for

necessary labor, except on sugar estates during the grinding season.

Every slave born on the island is to be baptized and instructed in the

Catholic faith, and to receive Christian burial. Formerly, there were

provisions requiring religious services and instruction on each

plantation, according to its size; but I believe these are either

repealed, or become a dead letter. There are also provisions respecting

the food, clothing and treatment of slaves in other respects, and the

providing of a sick room and medicines, &c.; and the government has

appointed magistrates, styled síndicos, numerous enough, and living in

all localities, whose duty it is to attend to the petitions and

complaints of slaves, and to the measures relating to their sale,

transfer or emancipation.

As to the enforcement of these laws, I have little or no personal

knowledge to offer; but some things, I think, I may treat as reasonably

sure, from my own observation, and from the concurrent testimony of

books, and of persons of all classes with whom I have conversed.

The rule respecting religion is so far observed as this, that infants

are baptized, and all receive Christian burial. But there is no

enforcement of the obligation to give the slaves religious instruction,

or to allow them to attend public religious service. Most of those in

the rural districts see no church and no priest, from baptism to burial.

If they do receive religious instruction, or have religious services

provided for them, it is the free gift of the master.

Marriage by the Church is seldom celebrated. As in the Roman Church

marriage is a sacrament and indissoluble, it entails great inconvenience

upon the master, as regards sales or mortgages, and is a restraint on

the Negroes themselves, to which it is not always easy to reconcile

them. Consequently, marriages are usually performed by the master only,

and of course, carry with them no legal rights or duties. Even this

imperfect and dissoluble connection has been but little attended to.

While the slave-trade was allowed, the planters supplied their stock

with bozales (native Africans) and paid little attention, even on

economic principles, to the improvement, or, speaking after the fashion

of cattle-farms, to the increase of stock on the plantation. Now that

importation is more difficult, and labor is in demand, their attention

is more turned to their own stock, and they are beginning to learn, in

the physiology of increase, that canon which the Everlasting has fixed

against promiscuous intercourse.

The laws respecting valuation, the purchase of freedom at once or by

instalments, and the compulsory transfer, I know to be in active

operation in the towns, and on plantations affording easy access to

towns or magistrates. I heard frequent complaints from slave-holders and

those who sympathized with them, as to the operation of these

provisions. A lady in Havana had a slave who was an excellent cook; and

she had been offered $1700 for him, and refused it. He applied for

valuation for the purpose of transfer, and was valued at $1000 as a

laborer, which, with the $100 for his trade, made a loss to the owner of

$600, and, as no slave can be subsequently sold for a larger sum than

his valuation, this provision gave the slave a capital of $600. Another

instance was of a planter near Matanzas, who had a slave taught as a

carpenter; but after learning his trade, the slave got himself

transferred to a master in the city, for the opportunity of working out

his freedom, on holidays and in extra hours. So general is the

enforcement of these provisions that it is said to have resulted in a

refusal of many masters to teach their slaves any art or trade, and in

the hiring of the labor of artisans of all sorts, and the confining of

the slaves to mere manual labor. I heard of complaints of the conduct of

individuals who were charged with attempting to influence the credulous

and too ready slaves to agree to be transferred to them, either to

gratify some ill-will against the owner, or for some supposed selfish

interest. From the frequency of this tone of complaint and anecdote, as

well as from positive assertions on good authority, I believe these

provisions to have considerable efficacy.

As to the practical advantage the slaves can get from these provisions

in remote places; and as to the amount of protection they get anywhere

from the special provisions respecting punishment, food, clothing, and

treatment generally, almost everything lies in the region of opinion.

There is no end to statement and anecdote on each side. If one cannot

get a full and lengthened personal experience, not only as the guest of

the slave-holder, but as the companion of the local magistrates, of the

lower officers on the plantation, of slave-dealers and slave-hunters,

and of the emancipated slaves, I advise him to shut his ears to mere

anecdotes and general statements, and to trust to reasonable deductions

from established facts. The established facts are, that one race, having

all power in its hands, holds an inferior race in slavery; that this

bondage exists in cities, in populous neighborhoods, and in remote

districts; that the owners are human beings, of tropical races, and the

slaves are human beings just emerging from barbarism, and that no small

part of this power is exercised by a low-lived and low-minded class of

intermediate agents. What is likely to be the effect on all the parties

to this system, judging from all we know of human nature?

If persons coming from the North are credulous enough to suppose that

they will see chains and stripes and tracks of blood; and if, taking

letters to the best class of slave-holders, seeing their way of life,

and hearing their dinner-table anecdotes, and the breakfast-table talk

of the ladies, they find no outward signs of violence or corruption,

they will probably, also, be credulous enough to suppose they have seen

the whole of slavery. They do not know that that large plantation, with

its smoking chimneys, about which they hear nothing, and which their

host does not visit, has passed to the creditors of the late owner, who

is a bankrupt, and is in charge of a manager, who is to get all he can

from it in the shortest time, and to sell off the slaves as he can,

having no interest, moral or pecuniary, in their future. They do not

know that that other plantation, belonging to the young man who spends

half his time in Havana, is an abode of licentiousness and cruelty.

Neither do they know that the tall hounds chained at the kennel of the

house they are visiting are Cuban bloodhounds, trained to track and to

seize. They do not know that the barking last night was a pursuit and

capture, in which all the white men on the place took part; and that,

for the week past, the men of the plantation have been a committee of

detective and protective police. They do not know that the ill-looking

man who was there yesterday, and whom the ladies did not like, and all

treated with ill-disguised aversion, is a professed hunter of slaves.

They have never seen or heard of the Sierra del Cristal, the

mountain-range at the eastern end of Cuba, inhabited by runaways, where

white men hardly dare to go. Nor do they know that those young ladies,

when little children, were taken to the city in the time of the

insurrection in the Vuelta de Arriba. They have not heard the story of

that downcast-looking girl, the now incorrigibly malignant Negro, and

the lying mayoral. In the cities, they are amused by the flashy dresses,

indolence and good-humor of the slaves, and pleased with the

respectfulness of their manners, and hear anecdotes of their attachment

to their masters, and how they so dote upon slavery that nothing but bad

advice can entice them into freedom; and are told, too, of the worse

condition of the free blacks. They have not visited the slave-jails, or

the whipping-posts in the house outside the walls, where low whites do

the flogging of the city house-servants, men and women, at so many reals

a head.

But the reflecting mind soon tires of the anecdotes of injustice,

cruelty and licentiousness on the one hand, and of justice, kindness and

mutual attachment, on the other. You know that all coexist; but in what

proportion you can only conjecture. You know what slavery must be, in

its effect on both the parties to it. You seek to grapple with the

problem itself. And, stating it fairly, it is this--Shall the industry

of Cuba go on, or shall the island be abandoned to a state of nature? If

the former, and if the whites cannot do the hard labor in that climate,

and the blacks can, will the seven hundred thousand whites, who own all

the land and improvements, surrender them to the blacks and leave the

island, or will they remain? If they must be expected to remain, what is

to be the relation of the two races? The blacks must do the hard work,

or it will not be done. Shall it be the enforced labor of slavery, or

shall the experiment of free labor be tried? Will the government try the

experiment, and if so, on what terms and in what manner? If something is

not done by the government, slavery will continue; for a successful

insurrection of slaves in Cuba is impossible, and manumissions do not

gain upon the births and importations.

MATERIAL RESOURCES AND EDUCATION

Cuba contains more good harbors than does any part of the United States

south of Norfolk. Its soil is very rich, and there are no large wastes

of sand, either by the sea or in the interior. The coral rocks bound the

sea, and the grass and trees come down to the coral rocks. The surface

of the country is diversified by mountains, hills and undulating lands,

and is very well wooded, and tolerably well watered. It is interesting

and picturesque to the eye, and abounds in flowers, trees of all

varieties, and birds of rich plumage, though not of rich notes. It has

mines of copper, and probably of iron, and is not cursed with gold or

silver ore. There is no anthracite, but probably a large amount of a

very soft, bituminous coal, which can be used for manufactures. It has

also marble, and other kinds of stone; and the hard woods, as mahogany,

cedar, ebony, iron-wood, lignum vitæ, &c., are in abundance. Mineral

salt is to be found, and probably in sufficient quantities for the use

of the island. It is the boast of the Cubans that the island has no wild

beasts or venomous reptiles. This has been so often repeated by tourists

and historians that I suppose it must be admitted to be true, with the

qualification that they have the scorpion, and tarantula, and nigua; but

they say that the bite of the scorpion and tarantula, though painful, is

not dangerous to life. The nigua, (sometimes called chigua, and by the

English corrupted into jigger,) is troublesome. With these exceptions,

the claim to freedom from wild or venomous animals may be admitted.

Their snakes are harmless, and the mosquitoes no worse than those of New

England.

As to the climate, I have no doubt that in the interior, especially on

the red earth, it is healthy and delightful, in summer as well as in

winter; but on the river borders, in the low lands of black earth, and

on the savannas, intermittent fever and fever-and-ague prevail. The

cities have the scourge of yellow fever and, of late years, also the

cholera. In the cities, I suppose, the year may be divided, as to

sickness, into three equal portions: four months of winter, when they

are safe; four of summer, when they are unsafe; and four of spring and

autumn, when they are passing from one state to the other. There are,

indeed, a few cases of vómito in the course of the winter, but they are

little regarded, and must be the result of extreme imprudence. It is

estimated that twenty-five per cent of the soldiers die of yellow fever

the first years of their acclimation; and during the year of the

cholera, sixty per cent of the newly-arrived soldiers died. The mean

temperature in winter is 70 degrees, and in summer 83 degrees,

Fahrenheit. The island has suffered severely from hurricanes, although

they are not so frequent as in others of the West India islands. They

have violent thunderstorms in summer, and have suffered from droughts in

winter, though usually the heavy dews keep vegetation green through the

dry season.

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