As the waters of the Irawadi begin to fall, a yearly festival of three
days is held, consisting chiefly of boat-racing. It is called the
Water-festival, of which we have the following account in Crawfurd's
_Embassy to Ava_:--
"According to promise, a gilt boat and six common war-boats were sent to
convey us to the place where these races were exhibited, which was on
the Irawadi, before the palace. We reached it at eleven o'clock. The
Kyi-wun, accompanied by a palace secretary, received us in a large and
commodious covered boat, anchored, to accommodate us, in the middle of
the river. The escort and our servants were very comfortably provided
for in other covered boats. The king and queen had already arrived, and
were in a large barge at the east bank of the river. This vessel, the
form of which represented two huge fishes, was extremely splendid; every
part of it was richly gilt; and a spire of at least thirty feet high,
resembling in miniature that of the palace, rose in the middle. The king
and queen sat under a green canopy at the bow of the vessel, which,
according to Burman notions, is the place of honour; indeed, the only
part ever occupied by persons of rank. The situation of their majesties
could be distinguished by the white umbrellas, which are the appropriate
marks of royalty. The king, whose habits are volatile and restless,
often walked up and down, and was easily known from the crowd of his
courtiers by his being the only person in an erect position; the
multitude sitting, crouching, or crawling all round him. Near the king's
barge were a number of gold boats; and the side of the river, in this
quarter, was lined with those of the nobility, decked with gay banners,
each having its little band of music, and some dancers exhibiting
occasionally on their benches. Shortly after our arrival, nine gilt,
war-boats were ordered to manoeuvre before us. The Burmans nowhere
appear to so much advantage as in their boats, the management of which
is evidently a favourite occupation. The boats themselves are extremely
neat, and the rowers expert, cheerful, and animated. In rowing, they
almost always sing; and their airs are not destitute of melody. The
burthen of the song, upon the present occasion, was literally translated
by Dr. Price, and was as follows:--"The golden glory shines forth like
the round sun; the royal kingdom, the country and its affairs, are the
most pleasant." If this verse be in unison with the feelings of the
people, (and I have no doubt it is,) they are, at least, satisfied
with their own condition, whatever it may appear to others."
Boat-racing, taming wild elephants, and boxing-matches, are said to be
the chief amusements of the king and the people. Mr. Crawfurd saw all
these, and he tells us that in the last of them the populace formed a
ring with as much regularity as if they had been true-born Englishmen,
and preserved it with much greater regularity than is usually witnessed
here--thanks to the assistance of the constables with their long staves.
While these official persons were duly exercising their authority, the
same good-natured monarch, who roasted his prime minister in the sun,
frequently called out, "Don't hurt them--don't prevent them from
looking on."
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