Breast, 45; waist, 48; hip, 48; seat, 40. Dia. IV as the model. Breast
measure taken over the shirt. The under arm cut is ½ inch at the hollow
of waist, but both back and front meet below and above. This ½ inch is
simply to give form to the seams. Top of back is 4¼—side of neck 4 for
top of collar band—bottom of neck band 5¼. Side of shoulders at 60 deg.,
9¼—shoulder seam even, but ¼ inch spring at the neck may be good. Center
of back is on the line and spring of ½ at the bottom—height of back, 14¼.
From the point of the angle of 135 deg. go down 7 numbers for the front
edge of the vest and go forward a ¼ at line 9—1⅛, at line 15—1⅜ at 17.
Cut a small gore in the forepart, below the pocket, in order to make the
front to conform to the oval form of the body. The description of this
vest and Dia. XX will fit the same person. This vest, made up and placed
on a person of 36 breast and 32 waist measure, will fit at the shoulders,
and if it is left to hang alone, will simply be too large all around
the breast and around the waist, but hangs good. There is one peculiar
feature in this or all large vests cut according to this work, which
should be considered. You can draw all surplus cloth together behind,
or in front, or at the side, or you may pin it up even all around, and
the fit of the shoulders will remain. For this reason, vests one size
too large will fit the same, and are better than if one size too small.
Cut all vests ½ waist and 2½ inches at the waist line, and pay little
attention to the hip line, as long as the sides have an opening over the
hips. If no opening is left there the hip line must also receive ½ hip
and 2½ inches. Allow all extra waist proportion, by allowing one half
of it in front and one half at the side of the back. Any other surplus
width, which may be desired may be allowed at the center of the back,
where it may be buckled up smooth.
VIII.—Frock Coat for a Very Stooping Form, and with Very Round Shoulder
Blades.