Breast, 43; waist, 46; hip, 46; seat, 44; length of pants, 32 inches.
Form: Large all around—prominent shoulder blades—square shoulders—arms
thrown back—neck rather short—head and front of waist bent forward—sides
of waist full—all normal cut coats are too high in the neck for this
form. Square of 18¾, which is small but good. Top of back at 3⅜—side of
neck 3⅞. Shoulder seam laps ½ at the neck and ⅝ toward the blade—at 60
deg., 9. Height of back above line 9 over the forepart, 12½. Underarm
cut, 1, and stretched up ½. Side seam: even at the armhole, and down to
11¼—¾ at 15—1¼ at 17½—1½ at 20—⅞ at 25—⅜ at 30. Center of back: From line
17½ spring out ⅜ at line 25. Front: In front of point 9 give 1¼—meet the
front edge at the front angle at 20—go out 5 at 25 and 4 at 30—which will
give a pretty straight front, but runs a trifle backward at the bottom.
On top of lapel allow 1½ in front of the front angle and cut a gore of ½
under the lapel and in the center of the angle of 15 deg. At the bottom
sink the front ¾ at the base. Notice that the proportions are all small
over the breast line, but full in front, and also full at the side of
waist, and will make a good coat for that size.
VI.—MODEL: DIA. VIIIa.
The breast size is the same as the preceding description, but the waist
and hip are comparatively small. Breast, 43; waist, 41; hip, 43½. Form
very erect and hollow in the back of waist—shoulders square—arms thrown
back, requiring a small square for the back, and a full breast. Square
of 18¼—under arm gore ⅜ at 11¼ and stretched up ⅜—height of back above
line 9 is 12¼—top of back is at 3⅜ and side of neck 3⅞—shoulder seam laps
⅜ at the neck—side of shoulders, 9—gore between side and back: even at
armhole—even at 11¼—1¼ at 15—1¾ at 17½—2 at 20—1¾ at 25 and 28. Center
of back spring: ¾ at line 25, starting at 17½—cutaway front. Allow 1 in
front of 9—meet front edge and front angle at 15—3¼ in front of 20—2½ at
25—meet at 28.