The figure on this diagram is poorly drawn, but it serves to illustrate.
It gives the side view of the crotch, and illustrates why a larger waist
must receive more cloth in front than a normal waist. Fig. I shows the
pants from the front or back view, but this gives the side view, the back
running backward and the front forward and away from the body. In this
position the pants must be considered as in opposite position to Dia.
XIV, and connected on the crotch seams. Dia. XV is intended to illustrate
the bases for the small waist as well as for the large waist. On the
small waist the body of the waist is even with the front pants base, but
when the waist becomes larger the base will have to be considered as
located inside of the front of the abdomen, as shown on the figure. When
the base strikes the front of the body, as on a small waist, the front
can be swung sidewise and backward on a straight line, and the back can
be swung forward and sidewise, but in order to conform to the seat the
back must form the sack for the seat first.
When both the front and the back is settled to the shape of the body,
the center of each runs up and down and parallel above the seat line.
The larger waist extends outside of the base and after the front is
swung sidewise, to the side of the back, the front of the pants must be
considered to be brought forward to the front of the body, the hinge
being at the side, and when the front of the pants is swung forward with
the hinge or swing fastened to the side, the centre of front is too
small and must be supplied with extra width. Pants, as well as coats,
are fitted from the side forward to the front and from the side backward
to the back, and if the diameter of the center of the body from back to
front is larger than on the normal form, the ends of the front will not
reach the centre of the body in front and more waist proportion must be
allowed there. The back must be considered stationary and requires no
allowance behind, but may require allowance at the side if the waist is
well filled up there. (See Dia. XX.)
In case of a back or forward leaning waist, Dia. XV will show that
the crotch must be considered stationary, and the crotch must also be
considered as a hinge on which the upper body swings back and forward,
and that if the backward leaning waist requires ½ inch less cloth on top
of front, the top of back must receive that ½ inch again, or else the
so-called back slope will become too large.
[Illustration: _Dia. XV._]
The descriptions of Dias. XIII, XIV and XV should be well considered by
every cutter. I have figured on them for over twelve years and the result
is here given. Others might have done it in less time, but so far as I
know, nobody has done it yet.