This is simply the lower part of Dia. XIII, but the sides are closely
connected on the angle of 15 deg., showing the pants in one solid
sheet, which will fit the form of the bare body from waist to ankle.
This diagram is in such a position that a new beginner may learn how to
produce a nice slope for the side seam. But it is intended to serve for
other and more important illustrations. It is to illustrate more fully
the so-called back slope.
The upper part, or the waist, is in a perfect square from the front base.
If the front and the back bases are laid on top of each other, all the
sweeps from point 80 will fit together and the whole front and back will
lay in position as most all pants are cut. From the position of this
diagram, there is no side, nor back slope; it is simply a square block,
consequently, the so-called back slope is only an imagination. But the
most important point to illustrate is the following:
Considering the ankles 1¼ inches apart, will give to each side ⅝, and the
front base line would run down parallel with the center of the front,
though slanting backward, and parallel with the front of the leg. Now, it
is true, the lower part of Dia. XIV is on an angle of 15 deg., but the
upper part is also on a square, and we will now consider the back square
line finished clear down to the bottom of a pants, and cut out a square
sheet of stiff paper, as long as a pants may be and as wide as the seat
requires to go around it, say 40 inches both ways, and place it on and
around the body of a person whose front of abdomen does not reach outside
of a straight line, running parallel with the front slope of the legs,
and in this position the sheet will fit to the body all along down in
front, as well as the back of the waist from the seat upward. The center
of the front and the center of the back run parallel up and forward and
the square sheet will fit it, but at the top of the side, and at the
bottom of the side and at the bottom of the back the square sheet, wound
around the body will be too large, and must be reduced as follows: On top
of side of waist one or two gores are cut to represent the difference
between the seat hip and waist measure. The bottom at the side and at
the back is reduced from a square to a slope of 15 deg., all of which is
taken off from behind. It should be observed on Dia. XIV that the center
of the front and the center of the back seams run parallel upward and
forward above the seat lines, and from the seat lines downward, both the
front and back forks start outward of the square, all of which is to be
turned inward to pass forward and backward between the legs.
The square sheet must be considered for the outside cover, as though the
legs were grown together. Again, a square sheet must be considered so
adjusted to the upper body that the square sheet closes in all around the
front from top to bottom, and from the seat to the waist in the back,
but stands off at the bottom behind where the square is to be reduced to
an angle of 15 deg. from seat to bottom. Whatever such a square, wound
around the upper body is too large at the waist, must be reduced by one
large or by two small gores at the top of side, and it will be found that
the reduction of the angle of 7½ deg. is always the difference between
the seat and waist measure, and if the waist is as large as the seat,
no reduction is required, and if the waist is larger than the seat,
allowance must be made at the side and in front. If that division is not
properly made the crotch will show the fault, because the sides will take
up their share, whether they have too much or too little cloth.
[Illustration: _Dia. XIV._]