VENICE AND ITS PECULIAR GLORY.--THE DODGE CLUB COME TO GRIEF AT LAST.
--UP A TREE.--IN A NET, ETC.
Few sensations are so singular as that which the traveller
experiences on his first approach to Venice. The railway passes
for miles through swamps, pools, ponds, and broken mud banks, till
at length, bursting away altogether from the shore, it pushes
directly out into the sea. Away goes the train of cars over the long
viaduct, and the traveller within can scarcely understand the
situation. The firm and even roll and the thunder of the wheels tell
of solid ground beneath; but outside of the windows on either side
there is nothing but a wide expanse of sea.
At length the city is reached. The train stops, and the passenger
steps out into the station-house. But what a station-house! and what
a city! There is the usual shouting from carriers and cabmen, but
none of that deep roar of a large city which in every other place
drones heavily into the traveller's ear.
Going out to what he thinks is a street, the traveller finds merely
a canal. Where are the carriages, cabs, caliches, hand-carts,
barouches, pony-carriages, carryalls, wagons, hansoms, hackneys,
wheelbarrows, broughams, dog-carts, buggies? Where are the horses,
mares, dogs, pigs, ponies, oxen, cows, cats, colts, calves, and
livestock generally?
Nowhere. There's not a wheeled carriage in the place. It may be
doubted if there is a dog. There certainly is not a cow. The people
use goats' milk. The horse is as unknown as the pterodactyl,
icthyosaurus, dodo, iguanodon, mastodon, great awk. How do they go
about? Where are the conveniences for moving to and fro?
Then, at the platform of the station, a score or two of light
gondolas await you. The gondolier is the cabman. He waits for you,
with his hand toward you, and the true "Keb, Sir!" tone and smile.
A double-sized gondola is here called an "omnibus," and the name is
painted on the side in huge letters. And these are the substitutes
for wheeled vehicles.
[Illustration: Dick's Luggage.]
Now after entering one of these you go along smoothly and
noiselessly. The first thing one notices in Venice is the absence of
noise. As the boat goes along the only sound that is heard is the
sharp cry from the boatman as he approaches a corner. At first the
novelty interests the mind, afterward it affects the spirits. In
three days most people leave the city in a kind of panic. The
stillness is awful. A longer stay would reduce one to a state of
melancholy madness. A few poets, however, have been able to endure,
and even to love, the sepulchral stillness of the city. But to
appreciate Venice one must be strongly poetical.
There are many things to be seen. First of all there is the city
itself, one grand curiosity, unique, with nothing on earth that
bears a distant approach to it. Its canals, gondolas, antique
monuments, Byzantine architecture, bridges, mystery: its pretty
women with black lace veils, the true glory of Venice--though
Murray says nothing about them.
For Murray, in what was meant to be an exhaustive description of
Venice, has omitted all mention of that which makes it what it is.
Whereas if it had been Homer instead of Murray he would have rolled
out the following epithets: [Transcriber's Note: Greek
transliteration] euplokamoi, apalai, choroetheis, eukomoi,
rodopechees, erateinai, kalliplokamoi, elkechitones, kuanopides,
imeroessai, bathukolpoi, ligumolpoi: k. t. l. [/end Greek]
The travellers visited the whole round of sights. They remained in
company and went about in the same gondola. The Senator admired what
he saw as much as any of them, though it appeared to be out of his
particular line. It was not the Cathedral of St. Mark's, however, nor
the Doge's Palace, nor the Court of the Inquisition, nor the Bridge
of Sighs, nor the Rialto, that interested him, but rather the
spectacle of all these magnificent edifices around him, with all
the massive masonry of a vast city, built up laboriously on the
uncertain sand. He admired the Venetians who had done this. To such
men, he thought, the commerce of the world might well have belonged.
In discussing the causes of the decline of Venice he summed up the
subject in a few words, and in the clearest possible manner.
"These Venetians, when they set up shop, were in the principal street
of the world--the Mediterranean. They had the best stand in the
street. They did work up their business uncommon well now, and no
mistake. They made money hand over fist, and whatever advantage
could be given by energy, capital, and a good location, they got.
But the currents of traffic change in the world just as they do in
a city. After a while it passed in another direction. Venice was
thrown out altogether. She had no more chance than a New York shop
would have after the business that it lived on had gone into another
street. Hence," said the Senator--he always said "hence" when he was
coming to a triumphant conclusion--"hence the downfall of Venice."
On arriving at their hotel a little circumstance occurred which made
them look at Venice from a new and startling point of view. On going
to their rooms after dinner they were followed by a file of Austrian
soldiers. They wanted to see the passports. They requested this in a
thick guttural tone, which made the Americans feel quite nervous. They
showed the passports nevertheless.
On looking over them the Austrian soldiers arrested them. They were
informed that if they went peaceably they would be well treated, but
if they made any resistance they would all be bound.
The Americans remonstrated. No use. A thousand conjectures were made
as to the cause of their arrest, but they were completely baffled.
Before they could arrive at any conclusion they had arrived at the
place of their destination, to which they had, of course, been taken
in a gondola. It was too dark to distinguish the place, but it looked
like a large and gloomy edifice. The soldiers took them to a room,
where they locked them all in together. It was a comfortable
apartment, with another larger one opening from it, in which were
two beds and two couches. Evidently they were not neglected.
[Illustration: Arrested.]
After waiting for half the night in a kind of fever they retired to
rest. They slept but little. They rose early, and at about seven
o'clock breakfast was brought in to them, with a guard of soldiers
following the waiters.
After breakfast they were visited again. This time it was a legal
gentleman. They did not know who he was, but he gave them to
understand that he was a person high in authority. He questioned
them very closely as to their business in Venice, but did his
questioning in a courteous manner. After about an hour he left.
Lunch was brought in at one o'clock. Their feelings at being treated
in this mysterious manner can be imagined. Such neglect of the rights
of man--such trifling with his time and patience--such utter disregard
of _habeas corpus_, awaked indignation which words could not express.
Positively they were treated like dumb cattle; locked up, fed,
deprived of liberty and fresh air; no communication with friends
outside; and, worst of all, no idea in the world of the cause of their
imprisonment. They came to the conclusion that they were mistaken for
some other parties--for some _Cacciatori degli Alpi_; and Buttons
insisted that the Senator was supposed to be Garibaldi himself. In
these troublous times any idea, however absurd, might be acted upon.
At about three in the afternoon the door was thrown open, and a file
of soldiers appeared. An officer approached and requested the
prisoners to follow. They did so. They passed along many halls, and at
length came to a large room. A long table extended nearly from one
end to another. Soldiers were arranged down the sides of the
apartment.
At the head of the table sat an elderly man, with a stern face,
ferocious mustache, sharp eye, bushy gray eyebrows, and universal air
of Mars. His uniform showed him to be a General. By his side was
their visitor of the morning. Officials sat at the table.
"_Silence_!"
[Illustration: Silence!]