CROSSING INTO THE ENEMY'S COUNTRY.--CONSTERNATION OF THE CUSTOM-HOUSE
OFFICERS.
The journey was a pleasant one. The Spaniards were an agreeable
addition to the party in the estimation of others than Buttons.
The Senator devoted himself particularly to the elder sister. Indeed,
his acquaintance with _La Cica_, as he afterward confessed, had given
him a taste for foreign ladies. He carried on little conversations
with the Señorita in broken English. The Señorita's English was
pretty, but not very idiomatic. The Senator imitated her English
remarkably well, and no doubt did it out of compliment. He also
astonished the company by speaking at the very top of a voice whose
ordinary tone was far stronger than common.
[Illustration: Buttons In Bliss.]
The journey from Bologna to Ferrara was not diversified by any
incident. Buttons was rapidly regaining his gayety and his strength.
He wore his arm in a sling, it is true, but thought it better to have
a broken arm with the Señorita than a sound one without her. It must
be confessed, however, that his happiness was visible not so much in
lively conversation as in his flushed cheek, glistening eye, and
general air of ecstasy. Moreover, Ida could not speak English much--a
conversation in that language was difficult, and they would not be
so rude to the Senator as to talk Spanish in his presence. The
consequence was that the conversation flagged, and the Senator was by
far the most talkative member of the company, and laid out all his
strength in broken English.
Ferrara was reached at last, and they put up at a hotel which boasted
of having entertained in its day any quantity of kings, emperors, and
nobles of every European nation. It is an astonishing town. Vast
squares, all desolate; great cathedrals, empty; proud palaces,
neglected and ruinous; broad streets, grass-grown and empty; long
rows of houses, without inhabitants; it presents the spectacle of a
city dying without hope of recovery. The Senator walked through every
street in Ferrara, looked carelessly at Tasso's dungeon, and seemed to
feel relieved when they left the city.
On arriving at the Po. which forms the boundary between this district
and Venetia, they underwent some examination from the authorities,
but crossed without accident. But on the other side they found the
Austrian officials far more particular. They asked a multiplicity of
questions, opened every trunk, scanned the passports, and detained
them long. The ladies were annoyed in a similar manner, and a number
of Roman and Neapolitan trinkets which had passed the Italian
_doganas_ were now taken from them.
Dick had a valise, both compartments of which were strapped down
carefully. Under a cairn exterior he concealed a throbbing heart, for
in that valise was the Doctor's pistol, upon which he relied in
anticipation of future dangers. The officials opened the valise. It
was apparently a puzzle to them. They found but little clothing. On
the contrary, a very extensive assortment of articles wrapped in
paper and labelled very neatly. These they opened one by one in the
first compartment, and found the following:
1, Six collars; 2, a brick; 3, lump of lime; 4, pebbles; 5, plaster;
6, ashes; 7, paper; 8, another brick; 9, a chip; 10, more plaster; 11,
more ashes; 13, an ink bottle; 13, three pair stockings; 14, more
ashes; 15, more ashes; 16, a neck-tie; 17, a bit of wood; 18, vial;
19, some grass; 20, bone; 21, rag; 22, stone; 23, another stone: 24,
some more grass; 25, more pebbles; 26, more bones; 27, pot of
blacking; 28, slippers; 29, more stones; 30, more stones.
The officials started up with an oath apiece. Their heavy German faces
confronted Dick with wrath and indignation, and every separate hair of
their warlike mustaches stood out. However, they swallowed their rage,
and turned to the others. Dick drew a long breath of relief. The
pistol was safe. It had been taken apart and each piece wrapped in
paper and labelled. Had he carried it about with him it would have
been taken.
The Senator thought it was better to have three battles with brigands
than one encounter with custom-house officials. He had a little store
of specimens of Italian manufactures, which were all taken from him.
One thing struck him forcibly, and that was the general superiority
of the Austrian over the Roman side.
There was more thrift neatness, and apparent prosperity. His
sentiments on this subject were embodied in a letter home, which he
wrote from Padua on a dreary evening which they spent there before
starting for Venice:
"If this part of Italy is oppressed by Austria, then all I can say
is, that the pressure has squeezed an immense amount of vegetation
out of the soil. Passing from the Roman territories into the
Austrian is like going from darkness into light, or from Canada into
the United States. What kind of people are they who do better under
foreign rule than Native? In my opinion, the territories of the
Pope are worse than those of other rulers in Italy. A Spanish friend
of mine tells me that it is because the thoughts of the Pope's
subjects are set not on things below, but on things on high. He tells
me that we've got to choose between two masters--Christianity on the
one hand, and Mammon on the other. Whoever chooses the latter will be
destitute of the former. He gives as examples of this France, England,
and America, which countries, though possessed of the highest material
blessings, are yet a prey to crime, scepticism, doubt, infidelity,
heresy, false doctrine, and all manner of similar evils. Those
nations which prefer religion to worldly prosperity present a
different scene; and he points to Spain and Italy--poor in this
world's goods, but rich in faith--the only evils which afflict them
being the neighborhood of unbelieving nations."