The governmental district of the islands commonly called Philippinas
comprises seven principal provinces, not to mention many other
islands and smaller provinces within its jurisdiction. Five of these
principal provinces are in the island of Luzon, which is four hundred
and sixty leguas in periphery and extends about from the thirteenth
to the twenty-first parallel. One can travel two hundred leguas in a
straight line on this island, for it is even longer than this. From
east to west, between the Cape of Spiritu Santo (the first sighted when
coming from Nueba España) and the bay of Manila, it is eighty leguas;
and from south to north, between the same bay and Cape Boseador,
in the province of Cagayan, which is opposite Japon and China, it is
one hundred and twenty leguas. The capital of Cagayan is the city of
Nueba Segobia, which was settled by Governor Don Goncalo Ronquillo de
Peñalosa in fifteen hundred and eighty-one. The shape of this island
of Luzon, taken as a whole, is more like a semi-quadrant than anything
else, although there are many irregularities in places. Some parts
are narrow, because of the numerous arms of the sea which bound and
penetrate the island; but in some parts, principally those on the
north side, the island grows broader and more spacious, as I will
show in the proper place. In other parts it is rough, rugged, and
not a little mountainous. When the island is considered as shaped
like a semi-quadrant, the great bay of Manila lies in the angle,
where the sides meet the city--which is in the center of the island,
near the entrance to the same bay; and has as a port Cavite, a little
more than two leguas to the south.
_Camarines_
The first, of the five provinces in the island of Luzon, beginning on
the eastern coast, is Camarines, which includes all the territory near
the mouth of the channel of Capul. The capital of Camarines is the
city of Cazeres, sixty leguas from Manila. It was settled by Doctor
Francisco de Sande, governor of these islands, in fifteen hundred and
seventy-four. He settled on the Vicor, a large and peaceful river,
whose waters are very fresh and healthful, because it runs through many
veins of gold, as do most or all of the rivers of these islands. There
are in Camarines as many as twenty encomiendas, counting the four into
which the island of Catanduanes (which is included in this district)
is divided. The largest of these encomiendas does not contain more
than fifteen hundred tributes; there are a few of one thousand; most
of them must have from seven to eight hundred; while some have four
hundred or even less. Among these peoples a great deal of gold was
formerly obtained from the mines or placers of Paracali and from the
island of Catanduanes. Camarines yields no rice, and it has not so good
a food supply as other parts of Luzon, owing to the fact that Luzon
is very narrow here, and in many places is rough and mountainous. It
is believed that as much gold is mined now as usually, yet it seems a
small quantity; for, although the Indians in general have more money
than formerly, obtained through their [various] sources of income,
they keep back the gold to work up into chains and jewelry, with
which they adorn and parade themselves freely. They pay tribute in
tin reals. The Camarines have become a very settled and tractable
people through the religious instruction and careful teaching of
the discalced Franciscan fathers, their ministers. They had been,
of all the people of these islands, the most warlike and the most
feared, as was shown by their resistance; indeed, one can hardly
assert that they were conquered. The number of the inhabitants of
this province can be but roughly estimated, as it is difficult to
count them accurately. It is probable, however, that there are more
than one hundred and fifty [thousand], counting the intractable black
people who live in the interior of the country. Of this number some
estimate that one-fourth are Christians.
_Judicial offices of the province of Camarines_ [23]
With respect to royal jurisdiction, this province has these three
offices:
The alcaldia-mayor of Caseres, which is ordinarily called the
alcaldia-mayor of Camarines, because Caseres is the capital of the
province, and has jurisdiction over the larger and better part of it;
the corregimiento of Ybalon, which is at the mouth of the channel;
and the corregimiento of the island of Catanduanes, which is also
near the same channel mouth.
_The province of Manilla_
The second province [in the island of Luzon] and the principal one
in importance and wealth, because of its extensive commerce and of
the fact that it is in the center of the kingdom, is Manila. Within
its jurisdiction are included other smaller provinces. These are the
two lake provinces, Bonbon and Bay; and (the most important of all)
Panpanga, which, at the outside, is not more than twelve leguas from
Manila. This is an inundated valley, and yields a great amount of
rice, owing to the richness and location of its lands, as well as to
the wealth and superior character of its natives--among whom there
are at present many who have aided and served as faithful subjects
and friends, whenever opportunity has offered. In Panpanga your
Majesty has as many as six thousand tributes in the four governmental
districts and principal villages, among which are Betis, Lubao, Guagua,
Mexico, and other smaller places. All the neighboring country, and
particularly the royal magazines, secure their rice from this province
[of Pampanga]. There must be in the province of Manila forty thousand
tributes belonging to private individuals, and almost twenty thousand
belonging to your Majesty. There must be in all more than five hundred
thousand people, of whom one-fourth are Christians. In this, however,
estimates vary. The adelantado, Miguel Lopez de Legaspi, settled the
important city of Manila in the year fifteen hundred and sixty-one,
[24] after having lived for six years in the islands of Zubu and Panay,
of which I shall speak more in detail in another place.
_The judicial offices in the province of Manila_.
The offices to which appointments are made in the province of Manila,
not to mention the judicial officers of greater or less importance
who are maintained by the city within its walls, are as follows:
The alcaldia-mayor of the Parian or alcayzeria of the Chinese; the
alcaldia-mayor of the coast near this city, its capital being the
town of Tondo; the alcaldia-mayor of the Lake of Manila, ordinarily
called Laguna de Bay; the alcaldia-mayor of Bulacan and Calumpite,
one of the two alcaldias of Panpanga; the alcaldia-mayor of Panpanga,
which includes the rest of the province; the alcaldia-mayor of
Balayan and Bonbon, twenty leguas from Manila; the corregimiento of
Mindoro and Baco, twenty-five leguas from Manila--which, although
it is itself an island, is a division of this province for judicial
and religious administration; the alcaldia-mayor of Calilaya, forty
leguas from Manila; the corregimiento of Masbate, an island fifty
leguas, or a little more, from Manila, between this island [of Luzon]
and the Pintados.
_Pangassina_
Next after Panpanga comes the district comprising all of Sambales and
Pangasinan. This, although here considered as a separate province,
is under the jurisdiction of Manila in judicial and religious
matters. Its natives are chiefly those called Negrillos. They are
mountain Indians and are either very tawny in color, or black. They
are so restless, so warlike, and so averse to trade and communication
with other people, that up to this time it has not been possible to
subdue them effectively. Although on different occasions they have
been severely chastised, there is still no security from them. They
are in the habit of making sudden assaults upon their neighbors,
continually, and cutting off many heads. In this consists the whole
happiness of these barbarians. These Negrillos belong to the same
race of people as those who live farthest in the interior and in the
most rugged parts of these islands. It is a very well established and
common belief that they are the real aborigines; and that the rest
of the Indians are immigrants who conquered them, and compelled them
to leave the shores and plains, and to retire to the most isolated
and rugged parts of the islands, where they now are. They are still
so brutal and so averse to civilization that they scarcely deserve
more than the name of men; for they often cut off the heads of their
own fathers and brothers as a pastime, for no other reason than
their natural cruelty and brutality. Very few of them have fixed
settlements, nor do they plant crops; but they live upon camotes
(a kind of potato), other herbs and roots, and the game which they
hunt. They hardly ever come to the plains or coasts except to make
assaults and to cut off heads. The one who has cut off the greatest
number of these is most feared and respected among them. The skulls
they keep in their huts as trophies, or to serve as jugs and cups
in their drinking-bouts. There is such abundance of wild game in
the province of Pangasinan that within a space of only twenty leguas
over sixty thousand, and sometimes as many as eighty thousand, deer
are killed every year. The Indians pay these deerskins as tributes;
while trade in them is a source of great profit for Japon, because
the Japonese make of them good leather for various purposes.
_Ten thousand tributes_. There must be in Pangasinan between ten
thousand and twelve thousand half-pacified tributes, two thousand
belonging to his Majesty, and the rest to private individuals. The
capital of this province is a place called Binabatonga. It
formerly contained about three thousand houses, or, according to
other estimates, a greater number; but it now has only about two
thousand. The province has some good ports. One is that of Agoo,
commonly called "the port of Japon," because it was the first port
which the Japonese occupied in these islands [when our people first saw
them here]. Another port is Bolinao, which is better than any other.
_Judicial offices in Pangasinan_. There is only one judicial office
in this province, namely, the alcaldia-mayor of Pangasinan.
_The province of Ilocos_
Next after Pangasinan, toward the north, on the same coast, comes
the province of the llocos, a people on the whole more settled and
tractable; and although there have been some disturbances among them,
they are now very peaceable. They are well supplied with provisions,
especially with rice--a great quantity of which comes to Manila every
year during February and a part of March, for at this time the winds
are favorable for going from Ilocos to Manila and back again. The
capital of this province is the town called Fernandina [now Vigan],
which was settled by the master-of-camp Guido de Lavazares, who
governed these islands in fifteen hundred and seventy-three, upon
the death of the adelantado, Legaspi. This province must nave between
fourteen thousand and fifteen thousand tributes, which are collected
without resistance. Five thousand of them belong to his Majesty,
and the rest to private individuals. There used to be in it, also, a
great quantity of gold but the Ygolotes Indians diminished the amount
for the reason given above. [25] This diminution is quite noticeable.
_Judicial offices of the province of Ilocos_. There is in this province
only one judicial office, the alcaldia-mayor of Ilocos.
_The province of Cagayan or Nueva Segobia_
After Ilocos comes the province of Cagayan, the northernmost portion
of the island of Luzon, where there is a great deal of incompletely
pacified country. It contains villages inhabited by a very strong
and warlike people, who have given us much trouble.
_Twelve thousand_ [_tributes_]. Between twelve thousand and thirteen
thousand tributes are collected in the pacified portions of the
province. Fifteen hundred, or a little more, belong to his Majesty,
and the rest to private individuals.
The capital of this province is, as has been said, the city and port
of Nueba Segobia, opposite and facing China and Japon, one hundred
and twenty leguas from Manila. It is so near China that from Cape
Bojeador, one of the points or promontories of Cagayan, it is not
more than a seventy leguas' journey to the nearest towns on the coast
of Chincheo, a maritime province of that great kingdom. The greater
part of the Sangleys who come to these islands are natives of that
place. For this reason, and because of the natural restlessness of
the people of Cagayan, there has been established in Nueba Segobia a
regular garrison, sometimes with fifty, and sometimes with a hundred,
or even more, soldiers, as necessity demands. Nueba Segobia contains
the cathedral church and is the capital of the archbishopric of the
province of Cagayan, just as the city of Caseres is of Camarines. There
are then, in the island of Luzon, not counting the archbishopric of
Manila, which is the capital of the kingdom, the two archbishoprics
above mentioned. It must be noted that there are in this island many
races and kinds of people, such as the Camarines, Camintanes, Tagalos,
Panpangas, Sanbales, Ilocos, Cagayanes, and many others. They differ
noticeably not only in language and in physical characteristics,
but also in disposition and customs. But the Tagala dialect, that of
Manila and the surrounding country, is a common language. It is spoken
and understood everywhere, not only by the above-mentioned natives
of the island of Luzon, but by the natives of all the islands. From
this fact those who know something concerning the past of these people
infer that the other nations of the archipelago have long carried on
trade and commerce with Manila. Because the island is the center of
an infinite number of nations and barbarous people, some heathens and
some Mahometans; and because of its nearness to and trade with the
rich and powerful kingdoms of Japon and China, as well as for other
reasons that might be mentioned, Manila is considered of greater
importance in this governmental district than can here be indicated.
_Judicial offices of the province of Nueba Segobia_. There is only one
judicial office in Cagayan, the alcaldia-mayor of the entire province.
_Province of Panay in the Pintados_
The sixth province, one of those outside of Luzon, is the island
of Panay, situated in the Pintados, one hundred leguas south of
the city of Manila. It is more fertile, and yields more rice and
other provisions, than any other province of the kingdom except
Manila. Neither is there any province relatively more densely
populated, for, although it is not eighty leguas in periphery,
it contains thirty thousand of the most profitable and peaceable
tributes in the whole kingdom. The capital of this island is the town
of Arebalo, which was settled by the adelantado Legaspi in fifteen
hundred and sixty-seven, and enlarged by Don Gonzalo Ronquillo in
fifteen hundred and eighty-two. It is near the village of Oton and
the port of Yloylo, the most southerly port of the governmental
district. For this reason, and because of the fertility of this
province, it is better fitted than any other for provisioning
and sending aid to the Malucas Islands and to the presidios of
Terrenate. This province is on the coast facing toward Mindanao,
Maluco, and all the "islands of enemies," as the islands to the
south are designated. In religious instruction and ecclesiastical
jurisdiction, this province is included in the bishopric of Zubu.
_Judicial offices in the island of Panay_. There are in Panay three
judicial offices. These are, the corregimiento of Panay and Aclan,
the rivers and principal settlements of the island; the corregimiento
of the island of Negros, which is included in the district of Panay;
the alcaldia-mayor of the town of Arebalo (commonly called the
alcaldia-mayor of Otong) and including the purveyorship--the best
and most important office of that province.
_The Province of Subu and its jurisdiction_
Forty leguas eastward from Oton, and one hundred and twenty leguas
from the bay of Manila, is the island of Zubu. The capital of
this province, as well as of all the provinces of the Pintados,
is the city of Santissimo Nombre de Jhesus--celebrated throughout
the kingdom, not so much on account of its good harbor as because
it was the first town to submit to his Majesty; and because it is
the first city which the adelantado Miguel Lopez de Legaspi settled
and pacified in these islands. It is also noted because it is but
half a legua from the island of Matan, where the famous Magallanes
died fighting; and more than all else on account of the holy relic,
[an image] of the child Jesus, which our fathers found there, which
is now at the capital city in the convent of San Agustin, and has been
signalized by some miracles that have occurred there. Zubu is a small
island, and it yields but few provisions, because it is rugged and
mountainous. But it has an abundance, of game, and secures sufficient
[of other] provisions and supplies from the islands and provinces
under its jurisdiction. These are: Leyte, Çamar, Ybabao, Bohol, and
many other islands of lesser importance, besides that part of the
island of Mindanao opposite Zubu which was formerly at peace--that
is, all the country along the Butuan River, forty leguas from Zubu,
and the coasts of Surigao, Dapitan, and Caragas, a little further
from Zubu. Eight or ten years ago, all of these revolted from this
province. There are in the provinces of Zubu and its jurisdiction,
according to some estimates, over twenty thousand, and according to
others, twenty-four thousand, very peaceable tributes. Three thousand
of these belong to his Majesty and the rest to private individuals. To
the two provinces of Zebu and Panay only is given the name Bisayas,
but to all this group of islands taken together is given the name
Pintados. The Pintados are now giving more trouble than any others
in the whole governmental district; not because the inhabitants are
restless (for none are more peaceable or more useful), but because
they are on the frontier toward the seas of Mindanao and Maluco. The
natives of Mindanao and Maluco--principally the Mindanaos and other
allied tribes, the Sangiles, Joloans, and others of that region--have
been emboldened by their great successes during the last ten years
to infest the coasts of the islands (and especially of the Pintados,
which are nearest to them), so frequently that they have kept the
forces of the kingdom diverted [to that region]. They have been greatly
aided by the artifice and craft of Silongan, their principal chief,
and most of all by the remissness of our fleets. For these reasons
they have harassed and are now harassing all the Pintados, where they
have at different times robbed many places, captured many thousands
of friendly Indians, burned and sacked the churches and barbarously
profaned sacred things. And yet for these excesses they have neither
made amends nor been punished, and since these Moros have power and
courage to continue the war, many evil consequences result; for in
spite of the pretended treaties of peace, which they are always
promising but never keep, they persist in their offenses. [For
instance], at the end of November, 1616, these Mahometan Indians,
by the coming of the Dutch ships which reached this bay on the last
of October led to think that our forces would be engaged, improved
the occasion like good strategists, and burned three of his Majesty's
ships in the dockyards of Masbate. About twenty leguas from Manila,
they burned some villages and captured many Spaniards; and what two
galleys did let some other person tell his Majesty. We know their
designs by experience, and the opinion grows that it would be well to
punish them for once, with sufficient force to keep them sufficiently
under restraint and subjection to make it possible to apportion the
island [in encomiendas], and to establish in it fortified posts. This
is the true way to prevent their disturbances. Since Mindanao is
directly opposite the Pintados, and so near to Matheo and Terrenate;
since it has so many encomiendas to distribute (as it is over four
hundred leguas in extent); and since it yields gold, wax, cinnamon,
and a great quantity of rice and other valuable products--great
benefits would accrue to his Majesty by its pacification.
_Judicial offices of the province of Zubu; three_. Returning to the
province of Zubu, from which I have been diverted by a discussion
of the affairs of Mindanao, I may say that there are three judicial
offices here. They are the alcaldia-mayor of Zubu, which is the
principal office in the province; the corregimiento of the islands
of Leyte, Camar, and Babao; and the corregimiento of Botuan, which
is the portion of the island of Mindanao that used to be peaceful.
Summary of the tributes--160,000. Each tribute consists of a man
and wife.
I wrote this in Manila, in 1618, to give to Governor D. Pedro de
Bivero.